Usually you talk about dye ruboff, I would have liked to see a white rag used at the end there for the topcoat and buffing, Pro Dye works well for me too.
Great video and a very helpful comparison of the three product lines. When I was first getting started in my leather hobby I was convinced by a salesman at a leather craft store that the water based dyes would be best. After using water based dye on a knife sheath I found out otherwise. Fortunately, I discovered your UA-cam channel and decided to give the Fiebing's Pro Dye a try. I haven't used anything else since.
Great video Chuck! The only dye I have used is pro dye but the application on which I dye varies between dip dying and air brushing both give great results!
Super interesting video (as we have become used to) and gives beginners like me an understanding of the different products Now we need a similar video but with all the Pro Dye Colors and maybe how they look after applying some top costs (maybe with leather balm, with a bit of neatsfoot oil and with another one). I really liked this comparison and the one of the top coats where a piece of leather had the original color and two different coat appliances and as we all know, the color of the dye is really different from the color on the leather and the top coats then change it even more
This was so useful. I just thrifted a really nice pair of red, soft grain leather boots (c. 1985, I think) The red is ok, but it's a bit wishy-washy and faded, and I either want to turn it back up to a rich red, or take it down to a nice burgundy with a brown dye. Been trying to weigh up the different Fiebing's products with little success, as guessing shades and colour payoff is almost impossible online. Think I'll go with the Pro, as I want them to stay supple, and want a stain, not a 'paint'. By the way I also liked that you'd shown the samples after oiling. Very helpful indeed. It can make the difference for sure. Any tips for me? The base colour i have to work with is very even without scuffs, as they've in very good nick.Also, do I need a de-glazer?
As for stiffness, wouldn't you condition the leather regardless? Especially for something like a belt? Bick 4 conditioner does not appreciably change the color in my experience.
Hi Great video! I think Angelus Black Suede dye leans purple and Fieibings Black Suede dye leans green? I don't know about other brands? May I suggest a video comparing different Suede dye brands, and as far as black goes, how to get a true black? Right now, I'm thinking of adding a coat of Fiebings after the two coats of Angelus I already did. Too many coats is not good for suede. Thanks.
I bought the fiebings low VOC leather dye from a local craft store and could not have been more disappointed. A couple hours after dying (dry to the touch) I set my project on a side table and when I picked it up it had acted like a paint stripper! Ruining the tabletop and my project.
How do you get the Standard Red dye to come out that color, if I dip dye I get a very Dark Pink/Red and if I wet the leather first I get a Medium Pink color.
You can lightly oil or condition the leather and work it with your hands to try and soften it up a bit but dye will typically harden the leather a little bit. We recommend the ProDye as well, it won't harden the leather as much as a straight alcohol dye.
Thank you. I wish that you had only done one side of the leathers to see the difference with the finisher. Is the ounce of the leather going to have an effect on the colors?
thickness/oz won't effect color, BUT with leather thinner than 6 oz you can easily penetrate from both sides and the front will end up darker in splotches, so be careful applying it. Most of the finishes darken very slightly, atom wax darkens kind of heavily..... if you want a good, waterproof one use leather sheen or resolene, both have a nice shine and don't change color.
Hi Chuck! Just got into leather-working after watching your videos. Quick question- I bought some of the Pro Dye and attempted to dye some Horween Essex natural veg-tan but both the Walnut and Light Brown came out WAY darker than in this video and with a metallic, green/coppery tinge. Does this happen with certain leather, like Horween, that has been infused with oils (at least I think it is)? I tried buffing it off after the leather dried (gave it 24 hours) but it hasn't fixed the problem completely and the color is still much too dark. I'm brand new to leather so, when I saw natural veg-tan, I thought I was set to go lol. If Horween Essex isn't good for dyeing, can you suggest some leather that is as supple but can take dye? Thanks in advance!
I've recently been quite disappointed in the performance of Fiebings Leather dyes, but I'm wondering if it was to do with the type of leather I was dyeing. It was especially thick, potentially sole leather. I found I was having to go over it several times and even then, I wasn't happy with the saturation. I was using cotton daubers so it should have been easy to layer up, but I just couldn't get it to sink in well. Are there particular leathers you just shouldn't dye?
If we mix dye colors can we mix all 3 types. For example can we mix pro with dye a color or do we need to stay with the same type if we mix them. Thank you
We would recommend staying within the same type of dye if you mix them. Unless they are both alcohol dyes, then you could experiment but we wouldn't mix Pro Dye and Leather Colors or anything like that.
There’s a “food grade” polyurethane or similar out there that could be used. It is pretty common and should be available at Lowes, or similar hardware stores.
I would definitely suggest something small, like a key ring. Once you’re confident you know how to cut out a pattern and stitch well, then move on to something a bit larger like a wallet. If you want to try your hand at carving veg tan, you can do that at any time.
As a beginner my self I liked key chains and coasters. They give you plenty of freedom to practice and they don't eat up a bunch of materials. Other wise making something useful for your leather crafting set up is also a fun rout to take. What ever you do do a bunch of them, The more practice the better. Cheers- John
We would recommend checking with an upholstery company. You can dye it but there is always a concern about rub off. Have you tried conditioning it? Sometimes that will darken the leather and bring back some life and shine.
Hi Chuck: Well.... you found out about the same thing I have over the last 10 years? The ONLY good Fiebings dye is the Pro Oil dye. I'd have liked you to do a Permanently test? I've tried both the Water based dye AND the Regular leather dye, and BOTH of them "bled" after 2 days of dry time when I water molded the leather. Even the Pro dye does to a slight degree. All in all, I'd NEVER use the water based stuff again! It made my leather so stiff that the leather was all but useless, except for a trash can filler or maybe a luggage tag? Just MY opinion. God bless: Dave
Not sure if it's been pointed out but in the video about dye penetration, the second one you cut (marked L), you identify it as Leather Dyes, but it should be Leather Colors. You had Leather Dyes as D at the start of the video.
We will link it here for you, Chuck likes the Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax: www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/leather-balm-with-atom-wax-neutral-4-oz
This can happen but from our experience it will go away with a top coat. Try taking a small scrap of the leather, dye it and then add a top coat. The top coat should make that disappear. Let us know how that works out for you!
Usually you talk about dye ruboff, I would have liked to see a white rag used at the end there for the topcoat and buffing, Pro Dye works well for me too.
Great video and a very helpful comparison of the three product lines. When I was first getting started in my leather hobby I was convinced by a salesman at a leather craft store that the water based dyes would be best. After using water based dye on a knife sheath I found out otherwise. Fortunately, I discovered your UA-cam channel and decided to give the Fiebing's Pro Dye a try. I haven't used anything else since.
Great video Chuck! The only dye I have used is pro dye but the application on which I dye varies between dip dying and air brushing both give great results!
Love this video! Very helpful. I love the pro dye too
Thank you! I use the pro dye also and I was thinking about other choices and you helped me stay with the pro dye
You've convinced me, pro dye will be what I use.
Super interesting video (as we have become used to) and gives beginners like me an understanding of the different products
Now we need a similar video but with all the Pro Dye Colors and maybe how they look after applying some top costs (maybe with leather balm, with a bit of neatsfoot oil and with another one). I really liked this comparison and the one of the top coats where a piece of leather had the original color and two different coat appliances and as we all know, the color of the dye is really different from the color on the leather and the top coats then change it even more
Great suggestion! We will add this to our list of potential future videos. Thank you!
Another information full video thanks Chuck
After you dye what steps do you use to get to a shiny finish? what are the products you use? Thank you
This is a great video
beautiful backdrop!
This was so useful. I just thrifted a really nice pair of red, soft grain leather boots (c. 1985, I think) The red is ok, but it's a bit wishy-washy and faded, and I either want to turn it back up to a rich red, or take it down to a nice burgundy with a brown dye. Been trying to weigh up the different Fiebing's products with little success, as guessing shades and colour payoff is almost impossible online. Think I'll go with the Pro, as I want them to stay supple, and want a stain, not a 'paint'. By the way I also liked that you'd shown the samples after oiling. Very helpful indeed. It can make the difference for sure. Any tips for me? The base colour i have to work with is very even without scuffs, as they've in very good nick.Also, do I need a de-glazer?
Great comparison! Personally i like the pro dyes.
Thank you, very helpful!
As for stiffness, wouldn't you condition the leather regardless? Especially for something like a belt? Bick 4 conditioner does not appreciably change the color in my experience.
Hi Great video! I think Angelus Black Suede dye leans purple and Fieibings Black Suede dye leans green? I don't know about other brands? May I suggest a video comparing different Suede dye brands, and as far as black goes, how to get a true black? Right now, I'm thinking of adding a coat of Fiebings after the two coats of Angelus I already did. Too many coats is not good for suede. Thanks.
I bought the fiebings low VOC leather dye from a local craft store and could not have been more disappointed. A couple hours after dying (dry to the touch) I set my project on a side table and when I picked it up it had acted like a paint stripper! Ruining the tabletop and my project.
How do you get the Standard Red dye to come out that color, if I dip dye I get a very Dark Pink/Red and if I wet the leather first I get a Medium Pink color.
Chuck, how do you dye leather white? Tutorial please
So how do you if you can make the leather dye ones pliable again ? Once hard stay hard ? Thanks. Informative video for a newb ie
You can lightly oil or condition the leather and work it with your hands to try and soften it up a bit but dye will typically harden the leather a little bit. We recommend the ProDye as well, it won't harden the leather as much as a straight alcohol dye.
Thank you. I wish that you had only done one side of the leathers to see the difference with the finisher. Is the ounce of the leather going to have an effect on the colors?
thickness/oz won't effect color, BUT with leather thinner than 6 oz you can easily penetrate from both sides and the front will end up darker in splotches, so be careful applying it. Most of the finishes darken very slightly, atom wax darkens kind of heavily..... if you want a good, waterproof one use leather sheen or resolene, both have a nice shine and don't change color.
Hey Chuck, was wondering what is the difference between the oil dye and the pro dye? Thanks
Hi Chuck! Just got into leather-working after watching your videos. Quick question- I bought some of the Pro Dye and attempted to dye some Horween Essex natural veg-tan but both the Walnut and Light Brown came out WAY darker than in this video and with a metallic, green/coppery tinge. Does this happen with certain leather, like Horween, that has been infused with oils (at least I think it is)? I tried buffing it off after the leather dried (gave it 24 hours) but it hasn't fixed the problem completely and the color is still much too dark.
I'm brand new to leather so, when I saw natural veg-tan, I thought I was set to go lol. If Horween Essex isn't good for dyeing, can you suggest some leather that is as supple but can take dye? Thanks in advance!
Thank you very much sir
I've recently been quite disappointed in the performance of Fiebings Leather dyes, but I'm wondering if it was to do with the type of leather I was dyeing. It was especially thick, potentially sole leather. I found I was having to go over it several times and even then, I wasn't happy with the saturation. I was using cotton daubers so it should have been easy to layer up, but I just couldn't get it to sink in well.
Are there particular leathers you just shouldn't dye?
If we mix dye colors can we mix all 3 types. For example can we mix pro with dye a color or do we need to stay with the same type if we mix them. Thank you
We would recommend staying within the same type of dye if you mix them. Unless they are both alcohol dyes, then you could experiment but we wouldn't mix Pro Dye and Leather Colors or anything like that.
THANK YOU!!!!
Can I use Fiebing leather dye for my suede boots? need to use black dye to cover grease stains.
Fiebing's makes a dye specifically for suede - we would recommend using that! fiebing.com/product/suede-dye/
Is the standard dye more black than the pro dye?
If you made a drinking cup, what would you line it with to make it water tight?
There’s a “food grade” polyurethane or similar out there that could be used. It is pretty common and should be available at Lowes, or similar hardware stores.
What do you suggest for a 1st time project for a beginner.
I would definitely suggest something small, like a key ring. Once you’re confident you know how to cut out a pattern and stitch well, then move on to something a bit larger like a wallet. If you want to try your hand at carving veg tan, you can do that at any time.
As a beginner my self I liked key chains and coasters. They give you plenty of freedom to practice and they don't eat up a bunch of materials. Other wise making something useful for your leather crafting set up is also a fun rout to take. What ever you do do a bunch of them, The more practice the better. Cheers- John
Burnishing, edge coats. Is that it or are they other way to make an edge look good?
Can you antique after you put the pro dry on the leather
What balm are you using please
can this be used on faux leather chairs?
Stiffness is the only reason I moved away from the water based dyes. Aussie balm did not help. Hot packing did not work. Now I use only the Pro Dye.
How do I get my light brown couch to a very dark color?
We would recommend checking with an upholstery company. You can dye it but there is always a concern about rub off. Have you tried conditioning it? Sometimes that will darken the leather and bring back some life and shine.
I mink oil the bugger out of the leather I dye. Seems to work.
Hi Chuck:
Well.... you found out about the same thing I have over the last 10 years? The ONLY good Fiebings dye is the Pro Oil dye. I'd have liked you to do a Permanently test? I've tried both the Water based dye AND the Regular leather dye, and BOTH of them "bled" after 2 days of dry time when I water molded the leather. Even the Pro dye does to a slight degree. All in all, I'd NEVER use the water based stuff again! It made my leather so stiff that the leather was all but useless, except for a trash can filler or maybe a luggage tag? Just MY opinion.
God bless:
Dave
Not sure if it's been pointed out but in the video about dye penetration, the second one you cut (marked L), you identify it as Leather Dyes, but it should be Leather Colors. You had Leather Dyes as D at the start of the video.
Good eye!!!
What is the name of the top coat you use?
We will link it here for you, Chuck likes the Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax: www.weaverleathersupply.com/products/leather-balm-with-atom-wax-neutral-4-oz
Didn't you do this same comparison about a year or so ago?
They get good views. Doesn't hurt to revisit and maybe add more information.
Why are pro and standard leather dye so different in medium brown? Nothing alike.
Just add oil if it's too stiff.
I’m having a problem with powdery gray blotches with the FIEBINGS black Pro Dye. Any help is needed
This can happen but from our experience it will go away with a top coat. Try taking a small scrap of the leather, dye it and then add a top coat. The top coat should make that disappear. Let us know how that works out for you!
dye again or OIL it and add a finisher. You can take a coal black to midnight black easily