Wow,you do this the hard way for sure, I've done about a dozen of these and have never taken down the sub frame, you can get the diff down around the sub frame if you take the engine mount nuts off and lift the engine up. I would advise when your oil pick-up is clogged like that to take down the oil pump and check your rod bearings as well,and always prime the pump before restarting. My last X3 I did took about 7 hours start to finish,that included new rod bearings as well as the chain and all components.
Wow, I need to do this soon so good to know!! I noticed the replacement parts here don't have the upgraded laser etching on the sprocket surfaces (for anti-slip) so wondering why?? Also this is a redo job he says so the first job he replaced only the upper TC set and assuming never dropped the pan. Wondering how that's possible? Once you loosen crank bolt, oil pump balance shaft moves and has to be re-timed correct? Also once crank hub is pulled out, tensioner would extend so how would you get hub back in without dropping pan? Finally he doesn't use the locking tool for the OP balance shaft, only a pin in the hole to hold it so seems risky when loosing and tightening that bolt
Great video. Harmonic balancer bolt can't be reused as it is torque to yield, not sure if it was changed but didn't look like it. Also hopefully new oil pan bolts were used since they are aluminum and risk snapping if they are reused!
What a pain to do this twice!! Did the customer paid twice? I guess as a learned lesson you wont quote just the main chain work alone, always do the oil pump chain/ guides as well
Yea he definitely had to pay twice. I gave him a discount but still. I told him since day one it should be done together but he wanted to spend the least $$ possible and trade the car but he end up paying more than he could’ve to begin with. Most of the time when you try to cheap out, you end up paying more.
the root cause is the original tensioner. N55's have the same chain and guide AND they've never had timing chain issues. The N20 has a different tensioner and it's absolute garbage. Once that goes the chain is free to beat the living hell out of the guides, sprocket and itself. The FCP Euro kit is all OE BMW parts and they've been upgraded. For owner's sake I hope that is true because this whole issue is fkd up. One should never have to worry about a friggen timing chain
@@barne3668 Hmmm interesting. I have my N26 apart right now replacing the exhaust side vanos cam gear which inexplicably went bad. With 86k miles, the chain seems ok (no slack, no noise) but the upper guides were broken so I replaced just those along with a new tensioner and its running good. I'll do the chain and lower half only if I HAVE too. Still need to fish out broken plastic in the pan and crap that might be stuck in the pickup screen. Gonna try a borescope and coat hanger next oil change
Wow,you do this the hard way for sure, I've done about a dozen of these and have never taken down the sub frame, you can get the diff down around the sub frame if you take the engine mount nuts off and lift the engine up. I would advise when your oil pick-up is clogged like that to take down the oil pump and check your rod bearings as well,and always prime the pump before restarting. My last X3 I did took about 7 hours start to finish,that included new rod bearings as well as the chain and all components.
Wow, I need to do this soon so good to know!! I noticed the replacement parts here don't have the upgraded laser etching on the sprocket surfaces (for anti-slip) so wondering why?? Also this is a redo job he says so the first job he replaced only the upper TC set and assuming never dropped the pan. Wondering how that's possible? Once you loosen crank bolt, oil pump balance shaft moves and has to be re-timed correct? Also once crank hub is pulled out, tensioner would extend so how would you get hub back in without dropping pan? Finally he doesn't use the locking tool for the OP balance shaft, only a pin in the hole to hold it so seems risky when loosing and tightening that bolt
I love this video, very detail.
Great video. Harmonic balancer bolt can't be reused as it is torque to yield, not sure if it was changed but didn't look like it. Also hopefully new oil pan bolts were used since they are aluminum and risk snapping if they are reused!
this is a great video on how to change timing and oil pump chain! I have a question: what coming down with the subframe? is the whole thing heavy?
Tell me more about your air gun? Love your air gun set-up.
At 22:21 when you remove the 10mm etorx from the steering, I can not tell what you are saying. How do you disconnect once you remove the 10 mm bolt
Nice 👍. Love your videos . keep post more videos.
WOW... EXCELLENT!!!!!!!!
I'm honestly just finishing up one of these at work.
Not too bad of a job just time consuming
How much did you charge for all of this?
I have a 2015 BMW n20 what would cost to loose compression all cylinders 90 psi check timing with tool vanos turn with Alan key to close valve
Hi, I have n26, but after timing chain replace engine sound like diesel… maybe you know what’s the problem ? 😢
where to order all the special tools and what are they names
Is that a oem flywheel locking tool?
hi.. is 528i f10 is the same?
Need help from you ASAP on this f30 I’m doing. Already did chain 3 times and I keep getting same codes! Plz help!!
You didn’t plug that hole where you hold timing on the oil pump. Is the okay?
do you need to bleed the cooling system?
Yes you should
how did lower broken guide cause loss in oil pressure? Oil pump stopped spinning because tensioner came off you mean?
There is a sproket which is connected to the oilpump shaft with friction
@@3xcelsi0r10 Oh I see, at 27:00 he's scraping out all the little broken pieces from the clogged oil pick-up screen. That's why it lost pressure...!
🎉🎉🎉🎉
What a pain to do this twice!! Did the customer paid twice? I guess as a learned lesson you wont quote just the main chain work alone, always do the oil pump chain/ guides as well
Yea he definitely had to pay twice. I gave him a discount but still. I told him since day one it should be done together but he wanted to spend the least $$ possible and trade the car but he end up paying more than he could’ve to begin with. Most of the time when you try to cheap out, you end up paying more.
What brand chain kit should I use. Can you send me the part number you use
Cok guzeldi
I see in many comments on many videos for this car that timing and the guide are big big issues.
I may pass on buying this one now.
I was afraid about it, but its basic maintenance. You should change your timing chain/ guides every 100k or 5-6 years on any car.
the root cause is the original tensioner. N55's have the same chain and guide AND they've never had timing chain issues. The N20 has a different tensioner and it's absolute garbage. Once that goes the chain is free to beat the living hell out of the guides, sprocket and itself. The FCP Euro kit is all OE BMW parts and they've been upgraded. For owner's sake I hope that is true because this whole issue is fkd up. One should never have to worry about a friggen timing chain
@@barne3668 Hmmm interesting. I have my N26 apart right now replacing the exhaust side vanos cam gear which inexplicably went bad. With 86k miles, the chain seems ok (no slack, no noise) but the upper guides were broken so I replaced just those along with a new tensioner and its running good. I'll do the chain and lower half only if I HAVE too. Still need to fish out broken plastic in the pan and crap that might be stuck in the pickup screen. Gonna try a borescope and coat hanger next oil change
❤🎉😊
did you have to prime the engine (without plugs) before first start?
I hate working on xdrive. It always adds 4 more hours to any job.
Here is the example how you should not do. The guy don't know BMW.
N20 engines are piece of crap