I had seen the FCP Euro video and was a bit overwhelmed with the job. I have done plenty of brakepads, alternator / radiator / hoses before. After watching your video and hearing your advice I feel brave enough to do this myslef.
I was also but I decided just do it. The car was up on jacks longer than I thought maybe 2-3 weeks instead of a weekend. Make sure to have all your tools beforehand and it'll go much faster.
A word of warning to anyone thinking of replacing the timing chain tensioner as a preventative measure. I've just done exactly this on my 328i (N20) and immediately, the camshafts are now out of timing (drivetrain error on dash and fault code 130E20). I would recommend turning the engine over without the spark plugs if you do to make sure to build oil pressure before attempting a start. I just unbolted and installed the chain tensioner on my older 320i with N43 engine with no problems. Hoping to just adjust the timing it at the weekend. However, I may end up replacing everything anyway.
One important thing to keep in mind when you attempt to see if the chain is stretched while turning it over by hand… while the tension is spring loaded, it relies on engine oil pressure to properly tension the chain. So you’re not getting an accurate indication of its condition doing it that way. The tensioner will fluctuate its pressure against the chain as you rotate the engine by hand. You’re better off taking the hydraulic tension out and installing the hand tensioner screw tool, tension the chain, then retry your observation.
Thanks for the video. I like it that you didn't edit out the few minor setbacks such as the engine misfiring on one cylinder. Just like in the real world where us diy mechanics encounter such stuff. I just bought a 328i with 200k km on the clock and don't know if the guides and chain have ever been replaced. Is it safe to assume that when the tensioner has the brownish plastic colour it is still the original and when it is the white plastic colour it is the newer version? Or does the white become brown over time? I also noticed that you put in the flywheel locking pin but were still rotating the engine after this. Or was this just non chronological editing of the video?
If the chain guides and tensioner are the root cause for the early failure of these chains, can I get away with changing only the chain, chain guide, and tensioner? Can I skip the oil pump chain replacement and skip all this engine jacking and oil pan removal stuff? If the timing chain breaks, that can badly damage the motor, but if my oil pump chain goes, it seems less catastrophic and I can just replace that chain when and if it ever happens...
Unsure since BMW did update the chain itself in the oil drive part. I think theres just a lot of variables and points of failure in the system in general which is why its recommended all components be replaced since you are in there anyways.
hey if you're still checking comments, did you use a 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar for the bolt? Wondering if my 1/2" will break trying to loosen that crank bolt
Really great video thank you so much. I have a question. Looks like some kits include the Intake VVT Gear and Exhaust VVT Gear, as well as the VANOS central valves. Should I be replacing these as well?
Also, so does the updated BMW chain and chain guide fix the premature failure issue? BMW seems to recommend that this N20 engine needs a new timing chain every 100,000 kilometers, which is every 62,000 miles! If the new chain and tensioner are not defective, can I wait to do this every 100,000 miles? Is there are upgraded chain that lasts longer? 100k miles is a lot, but honestly, I think these chains should last a lot longer given the work involved in replacing...
I've read of a couple engines that did go out on forums after replacement of chain and guide. Not sure if its due to incorrect installation or something else but I think the failure numbers are still exponentially lower than that of the original chain + guides
@@MatthewWong also brother. Use AMSOIL European Formula 0W-40 FS. Your guides will last longer on a 100% synthetic oil. For $20 a year, you get 25% off all their products or you could do $10 for 6 months.
when you go to torque down the crank bolt is it ok to not have the engine sitting on the subframe? cause right now i have the subframe lowered in order to get the oil pan out and i have the engine lifted a little with a engine support bar and i have the driver engine mount off on the driver side. Will it hurt anything to try and torque it down or does it have to be lowered onto the subframe?
Only if it's diagnosed. BMW won't say its a timing chain problem unless it meets specific criteria. I've taken it in multiple times to BMW and they said its under tolerance and now taking it apart myself shows its not (guides are obviously cracked). So you can wait for your engine to fail and replace an engine out of warranty, or if your dealer is nice enough to say its suffering from the issue they would replace it.
@@MatthewWong Interesting. I was at the dealer the other day for some routine stuff and my SA was saying that you can check your chain tension just from removing the oil cap. The chain is visible and reachable for them to check the slack (if any). My N20 is 04/2016 so it does not fall under the extended warranty (7 yr/70k miles) - static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10142923-9999.pdf I am approaching 70k miles so I am wondering if they would do it as goodwill, I am starting to get paranoid about it and 'sense' more noise during driving, I do not have the engine/acoustic sound deadening under the engine cover so could be it or the injectors are just loud
@@jonathandauria2498 Thats interesting, my dealership had the "master tech" come out to tell me that the chain tension under the oil cap is supposed to be loose as the cam lobs rotate back on engine stop occasionally. He said this is "by design" and was "surprised I even noticed". I even have it all on my dash cam recording the conversation. He told me this was not grounds for warranty work and that was welcome to do it out of pocket and see what a mechanic would find and BMW would review the case and reimburse me if it qualified.
@MatthewWong lol my dealer failed to mention that the timing chain on my 320i is completely stock. Said they had it fully inspected before i bought it at 72k miles. Like yeah it's not gonna be broken but they failed to mention how critical of an issue it was. It seems now that the whine is starting to get louder and this morning when I started the car it sounded like loose change banging around for a second.
Hi I have replaced timming chain n tappet cover on a BMW N20 X3, car drives fine but when you go over 4000rpm then the drive train error comes up saying "continue journey at moderate speed. Full performance not available, have vehicle checked" I run the diagnostic and clear the fault codes but when you drive again and reach 4000rpm then code is back. But car is still running smoothly. Can you assist me please?
@@MatthewWong morning no car doesn't go in limp mode .it's driving fine just that msg keep coming back .if I can have ur whatsapp number I can send u scan report
Great work Matthew, I am not sure how to determine it from the whine as engine is so loud and seems the same every time i hear, I am based in Canada and have 131000 KMS on it, its a 2013 328i xdrive. Should I do it preventative or leave it until I hear loud whine noise?
The n20 engine has lots of sounds that it will make during running. The timing chain whine is very noticeable and is very loud in the upper area of the engine near the engine fill cap. It is very distinct and several users have good videos on it on UA-cam. There is also whine that is normal from the lower portion of the engine but mine was loud most likely due to the oil drive chain being stretched. I think you should tackle it if you have the time and garage space and do not expect to need your car for a while. My car was running fine and smooth even with cracked guides its just the chance you take before you jump timing or guides completely crack.
@@MatthewWong oh ok. Cuz I have the same car and my timing chain is just as slack as yours in the video. And I’m getting a misfire on cylinder number 1. I’ll replace the injector and coil to see if it fixes the misfire. I already did all four spark plugs just recently.
Can someone explain how a German engineered vehicle which is touted for engineering excellence has a timing chain thats so fragile and needs replacement AT ALL? Like what kind of joke car is this?
Is it just me or dose this timing chain appear overly complex and labor intensive to replace. This is why i wont own a bmw but aint afraid or a night in a benz
Can anyone of you help me do this job on my 328i ? Please ? I am unable to trust anyone out there and dont have enough money to go to the dealership please ?
Its a joke for BMW to use cheap plastic parts for critical functions: the chain guide, hot coolant exit connector, engine cover, etc........ . On top of this, BMW cars have poor temperature control system from bad design to unstable sensors, causing overheating which in return accelerated deterioration of these plastic parts! Shame on BMW leaders and engineers!
I had seen the FCP Euro video and was a bit overwhelmed with the job. I have done plenty of brakepads, alternator / radiator / hoses before.
After watching your video and hearing your advice I feel brave enough to do this myslef.
I was also but I decided just do it. The car was up on jacks longer than I thought maybe 2-3 weeks instead of a weekend. Make sure to have all your tools beforehand and it'll go much faster.
Did you end up doing it?
Good stuff man!! gives me the courage to tackle projects that may seem limiting at first.
Thanks!
A word of warning to anyone thinking of replacing the timing chain tensioner as a preventative measure. I've just done exactly this on my 328i (N20) and immediately, the camshafts are now out of timing (drivetrain error on dash and fault code 130E20). I would recommend turning the engine over without the spark plugs if you do to make sure to build oil pressure before attempting a start. I just unbolted and installed the chain tensioner on my older 320i with N43 engine with no problems. Hoping to just adjust the timing it at the weekend. However, I may end up replacing everything anyway.
You have to rest adoption on Vanos with ISTA or some other scan tool that’s capable of doing reset on Vanos
Need the vanos locking tool. Locks your camshafts when you take the chain and stuff off
Alguien quemediga donde esta el taller adonde lo puedo llevar
Fcp euro have a good video and yeah sounds like you need to vanos lock tool to timing those correctly aswell
how do you make sure to build oil pressure?
One important thing to keep in mind when you attempt to see if the chain is stretched while turning it over by hand… while the tension is spring loaded, it relies on engine oil pressure to properly tension the chain. So you’re not getting an accurate indication of its condition doing it that way. The tensioner will fluctuate its pressure against the chain as you rotate the engine by hand. You’re better off taking the hydraulic tension out and installing the hand tensioner screw tool, tension the chain, then retry your observation.
the old chain wont stretch in all circumstances but the pins create a wear over time due to wear and tear but awesome video very informative
Good job Matthew, you have a good reason to proud yourself, wish I don't need do the same thing for my 2013 320i
thanks!
Thanks for the video. I like it that you didn't edit out the few minor setbacks such as the engine misfiring on one cylinder. Just like in the real world where us diy mechanics encounter such stuff.
I just bought a 328i with 200k km on the clock and don't know if the guides and chain have ever been replaced. Is it safe to assume that when the tensioner has the brownish plastic colour it is still the original and when it is the white plastic colour it is the newer version? Or does the white become brown over time? I also noticed that you put in the flywheel locking pin but were still rotating the engine after this. Or was this just non chronological editing of the video?
If the chain guides and tensioner are the root cause for the early failure of these chains, can I get away with changing only the chain, chain guide, and tensioner? Can I skip the oil pump chain replacement and skip all this engine jacking and oil pan removal stuff? If the timing chain breaks, that can badly damage the motor, but if my oil pump chain goes, it seems less catastrophic and I can just replace that chain when and if it ever happens...
Unsure since BMW did update the chain itself in the oil drive part. I think theres just a lot of variables and points of failure in the system in general which is why its recommended all components be replaced since you are in there anyways.
would you show what or where does the tendioner push... I may had miss that part.
Did the ticking noise go away or is that something else?
That's just the n20 engine
Injectors
Great job, I allready see it, I have a question, at how many miles or kilometers have to changue these chains...??
Around 100k miles
What a great video thank you
hey if you're still checking comments, did you use a 1/2" or 3/4" breaker bar for the bolt? Wondering if my 1/2" will break trying to loosen that crank bolt
Did this hold up? It didn’t sound like the timing chain noise really went away after the new start up.
Still driving it. Around 10k miles since I did this job now and did a 1000 mile road trip recently and nothing out of the ordinary.
Really great video thank you so much. I have a question. Looks like some kits include the Intake VVT Gear and Exhaust VVT Gear, as well as the VANOS central valves. Should I be replacing these as well?
Only if you had vanos codes prior
Is the new one more durable than the old one?
Not sure but BMW did upgrade the parts
Also, so does the updated BMW chain and chain guide fix the premature failure issue? BMW seems to recommend that this N20 engine needs a new timing chain every 100,000 kilometers, which is every 62,000 miles! If the new chain and tensioner are not defective, can I wait to do this every 100,000 miles? Is there are upgraded chain that lasts longer? 100k miles is a lot, but honestly, I think these chains should last a lot longer given the work involved in replacing...
I've read of a couple engines that did go out on forums after replacement of chain and guide. Not sure if its due to incorrect installation or something else but I think the failure numbers are still exponentially lower than that of the original chain + guides
No you’re supposed to do it ever 100k
@@DuckMcDuckinson yeah sounds about right I just did preemptively
@@MatthewWong also brother. Use AMSOIL European Formula 0W-40 FS. Your guides will last longer on a 100% synthetic oil. For $20 a year, you get 25% off all their products or you could do $10 for 6 months.
great content. 👍👏👏
Did you buy timing tools or you rented it ?
I bought off Amazon and returned after
I wish I would have seen this video a few days ago because I backed out when I couldn’t find the locking pin. I reassembled everything.
when you go to torque down the crank bolt is it ok to not have the engine sitting on the subframe? cause right now i have the subframe lowered in order to get the oil pan out and i have the engine lifted a little with a engine support bar and i have the driver engine mount off on the driver side. Will it hurt anything to try and torque it down or does it have to be lowered onto the subframe?
Its probably better to have it connected to the subframe so you can apply the proper amount of torque.
Isnt this covered under BMW if its production before 2016
Only if it's diagnosed. BMW won't say its a timing chain problem unless it meets specific criteria. I've taken it in multiple times to BMW and they said its under tolerance and now taking it apart myself shows its not (guides are obviously cracked). So you can wait for your engine to fail and replace an engine out of warranty, or if your dealer is nice enough to say its suffering from the issue they would replace it.
@@MatthewWong Interesting. I was at the dealer the other day for some routine stuff and my SA was saying that you can check your chain tension just from removing the oil cap. The chain is visible and reachable for them to check the slack (if any). My N20 is 04/2016 so it does not fall under the extended warranty (7 yr/70k miles) - static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10142923-9999.pdf
I am approaching 70k miles so I am wondering if they would do it as goodwill, I am starting to get paranoid about it and 'sense' more noise during driving, I do not have the engine/acoustic sound deadening under the engine cover so could be it or the injectors are just loud
@@jonathandauria2498 Thats interesting, my dealership had the "master tech" come out to tell me that the chain tension under the oil cap is supposed to be loose as the cam lobs rotate back on engine stop occasionally. He said this is "by design" and was "surprised I even noticed". I even have it all on my dash cam recording the conversation. He told me this was not grounds for warranty work and that was welcome to do it out of pocket and see what a mechanic would find and BMW would review the case and reimburse me if it qualified.
@MatthewWong lol my dealer failed to mention that the timing chain on my 320i is completely stock. Said they had it fully inspected before i bought it at 72k miles. Like yeah it's not gonna be broken but they failed to mention how critical of an issue it was. It seems now that the whine is starting to get louder and this morning when I started the car it sounded like loose change banging around for a second.
Hi I have replaced timming chain n tappet cover on a BMW N20 X3, car drives fine but when you go over 4000rpm then the drive train error comes up saying "continue journey at moderate speed. Full performance not available, have vehicle checked" I run the diagnostic and clear the fault codes but when you drive again and reach 4000rpm then code is back. But car is still running smoothly. Can you assist me please?
It sounds like it might be in limp mode? Sorry it would need a full diagnostic to figure out whats wrong.
@@MatthewWong morning no car doesn't go in limp mode .it's driving fine just that msg keep coming back .if I can have ur whatsapp number I can send u scan report
What brand did you use of timing chain kit ?
Probably the brand of timing chain used
I'd start with looking up what codes are being thrown instead of erasing them
Great work Matthew, I am not sure how to determine it from the whine as engine is so loud and seems the same every time i hear, I am based in Canada and have 131000 KMS on it, its a 2013 328i xdrive. Should I do it preventative or leave it until I hear loud whine noise?
The n20 engine has lots of sounds that it will make during running. The timing chain whine is very noticeable and is very loud in the upper area of the engine near the engine fill cap. It is very distinct and several users have good videos on it on UA-cam. There is also whine that is normal from the lower portion of the engine but mine was loud most likely due to the oil drive chain being stretched. I think you should tackle it if you have the time and garage space and do not expect to need your car for a while. My car was running fine and smooth even with cracked guides its just the chance you take before you jump timing or guides completely crack.
Definitely has a rattle sound to it! Also sometimes the noise will quite once the oil pressure builds. I feel like it’s most noticeable on start up.
Nice work.
How many miles did you have when you decided to change? I think this is too much for me to diy but I’m approaching 80k.
76k miles
Hey where did you get the timing tools from?
Amazon!
hello and congratulation
can you send me price of that tool and price to send ti miami?
thanks
gabriel
I can hear Abba @11:00
Take the spark plugs out before turning the engine over. Next time. It will be beneficial for fighting compression.
Lol your lucky to even have it running mine is idling horribly
After replacing your chain?
Welcome hade been Cambodia
Was your car running fine before you did the timing ?
Yep
@@MatthewWong oh ok. Cuz I have the same car and my timing chain is just as slack as yours in the video. And I’m getting a misfire on cylinder number 1. I’ll replace the injector and coil to see if it fixes the misfire. I already did all four spark plugs just recently.
@@guccipig2782 what was the code
@@romanobrown5592 the injector wasn’t seated right so the Teflon seal kept melting away. I fixed the issue now. It runs fine.
Can someone explain how a German engineered vehicle which is touted for engineering excellence has a timing chain thats so fragile and needs replacement AT ALL? Like what kind of joke car is this?
How much it cost?
Donde el taller Diresion
Is it just me or dose this timing chain appear overly complex and labor intensive to replace. This is why i wont own a bmw but aint afraid or a night in a benz
why not just remove all that old platic... just use new tensioner...
Just decided to try it out. My plastic was cracked anyways
Hello and do not be tired. Someone from Master Hami can guide me in learning to repair bmv company cars
The car sounds same before and after
Can anyone of you help me do this job on my 328i ? Please ? I am unable to trust anyone out there and dont have enough money to go to the dealership please ?
Its a joke for BMW to use cheap plastic parts for critical functions: the chain guide, hot coolant exit connector, engine cover, etc........ . On top of this, BMW cars have poor temperature control system from bad design to unstable sensors, causing overheating which in return accelerated deterioration of these plastic parts! Shame on BMW leaders and engineers!