A few viewers have pointed out that Dagger Tools has a Reverse Curve hammer at a pretty affordable rate. So if you aren't interested in locating an old one check this one out: tinyurl.com/y8g9nads
This snapon shrinking hammer at 5:12 works great when using heat, I've owned n used that model for 35 years. You might want to use it with a slap file as a dolly to get full effect.
Great video . I know its old . I just picked up 6 hammers of different designs from marketplace for 30 bucks! In my experience they are hard to find at swap meets or tool shows. I plan to grow my collection.
This is a great video, and I watched it mainly to see the other uses that someone else has found for different design body hammers. I used to disregard waffle face hammers, but then I met a man who showed me the “right” way to use it. Now I love that hammer. The misconception is that it shrinks by hitting the surface directly, leaving the scars ya hate. That’s not quite the right technique. You want to use it in a glancing manner. The teeth grab the metal and move it in the direction you glance it. It works great in conjunction with heat, but you can use it without. Yes it’ll leave scratches, but a sander and some 80-180 grit sand paper will take care of it.
I usually do glancing blows with all my body hammer work but I guess I usually do use the shrinking hammer in a more direct way. I will attempt to give it another try using your suggestion. However I've found I don't need it really. For shrinking I use a shrinking disc that doesn't scar the metal at all. Thank you for the kind words and input. 👍👍
HotRodHippie I’ve recently been introduced to the shrinking disc and I wholeheartedly agree that it’s a much cleaner and overall faster method of shrinking. Even just using a slapper and a lead shot filled leather bag is much better. I do hope that you’re next attempt with the waffle face hammer will give you a more satisfying result. Even if you can only use it for minor stretched metal working. It’s better than having a body hammer with a side that’s completely useless. Hey brother Thank You for being kind in your reply, and for sharing your knowledge with the rest of the world. I’ve been really enjoying your content and look forward to seeing more!
I am missing a few of those hammers. I think I may have enough control to not rush out and buy the missing ones. I would rather have tols that I do not need than to need tools I do not have. Another great video.
G'day again from West Australia Alan😉🙂👍👍 I Am the 3rd generation in my Paternal family side, with hammers reaching back a loooonng way. One in particular my dad told me my grandfather got made by a Blacksmith in England. Which I believe would be about 150 yrs old. Possibly more grandad died at 112yrs of age. I Love using it for moving metal around. It has this amazing ring tone when striking metal. A totally unique sound. So powerful with little effort. 😉🙂👍👍
Cool video. Nothing like having a snap on hammer and dolly in hand to work with. Lol, one of my go to hammers back in the day was a craftman body hammer with a large round and large square head on the other. It made straightening panels easy, as it felt perfectly balanced.
I'm a hammer collector, I admit. I've bought very few new hammers in the last 40+yrs however I've gotten great buys at garage sales and flea markets. Yes in those odd access situations it's nice to have a hammer to fit the job. Those odd Fairmont hammers I bought one of each when they first came out and a few of the ones you grind to fit. I'm glad I bought those. Good video and explanation.
@@HotRodHippie You can get great hammers and other tools sometimes for $2-$3@ and and those prices it doesn't hurt to modify them for a particular use. I'll have to look, years ago I found a guy in South Carolina who sells hammer handles in bulk and he'll mix up lengths ect. I still have a few, I'll find his email and send it to you.
Excellent info. I subscribed. BTW, someone talked about the dangers of striking a chisel with a hammer below. A proper metal chisel becomes dangerous from small shards if allowed to mushroom where the hammer strikes. If the edges are kept chamfered, they are obviously not dangerous to strike with a hammer (though I would use a ball peen for the same reason).
lol, I just watched your butt welding vs overlapped video and am considering taking this compliment back! just kidding, but you did lose a few points for rambling a bit, happy thanksgiving btw.
@@rob12449 can't win them all. But sometimes to impart information requires telling some random stories to get a point across. It happens. Have a good holiday. 👍👍
Thanks for this video. Working on the metal finishing phase of my Triumph Spitfire Restoration (you can search for Roundtail Restoration on UA-cam if you want) and am teaching myself how to do all of it. I really like your "how I use it" along with what the manufacturer (or the design) intended. I would appreciate maybe a summation at the end: if you should own hammers, this is what I'd get kind of thing. You mention some that are very useful, but it would be beneficial for me to have a "roundup".
It's a good day when I acquire a new hammer. I've slowed down a bit but they still come my way. I usually massage the outer radius a bit to minimize any chance of marking the metal.The new hammers definitely have been shaped less than the same model old ones. I have 2 Martin hammers marked the same but the radius is very different (and they were brand new. ) 2 Protos also but they were old when I got them.
I don't really know how the hammer making process really goes but I'm betting the final grind is a hand finish process. So I can see that. I made a video about dressing hammers last year. I should redo it with more demonstration and detail. I always clean up my hammer edges. Even the best ones are fairly harsh.
Martin 165G This is a metal finishing hammer thats designed to be used with a special dolly that no one makes anymore. I had to have a machine shop make mine.Its a GREAT hammer if you do old school metal finishing and have the proper dolly for it.
thanks for pointing me toward the book... I've been a bodyman for years, but no one has ever been able to explain bumping to me as well as that book does.
Glad I'm not the only one who can't get a shrinking hammer to do anything other than mangle steel. I'm a total noob, but I cant imagine it doing anything but destroying steel. I have a half dozen body hammers, could always use more. I really need more spoons though...
For decades, Ron Covell has been asked about shrinking hammers in his workshops and he will do a quick demo comparing cold shrinking an area compared to doing the same with a normal hammer or slapper and the only difference is the marks. The ideal in any metal finishing is to not add marks.
Great video I know what your saying about the Snap-on reverse curve I found a used one in reality good shape was expensive but it's in my collection... But Snap-on seem to be the best feel and balance...
TopTul in the UK makes the reverse curve body hammer. Model JFAA0533. You can get one shipped here to the US, but total is going to be close to same as a used snap on if you can find one - about $90-100. eBay seller or two has them.
Dagger Tool has a reverse curve body hammer for $30 right now. I have not tried it at all to say its quality. It looks just like the the short lived Fairmount one. I need to get one and check it out.
Listing part number and manufacture is most helpful. The snap on bf608 I did not see on there site without part number. I can use that hammer for weapon building.
For the shrinking hammer u need a shrinking dolly to match. It does mangle the material some but it does work. There is a shrinking hammer that u dont need a shrinking dolly to match. It has a swirly face and rubber on the back so the face can twist to tighten up the material. It does work and doesnt make as much of a mess. There only bad thing about them is that there only good for a few years because the rubber eventually goes hard and makes you have to hit harder to shrink the material so eventually u start to get the marks. For me hot spotting is probably the best way to shrink excess material you just have to be careful on very flat panels cus when its nearly flat then u do it one more time and you start to shrink shape into it.
I got one of the reverse curve hammers like the one you mentioned from Dagger. I really like it and it seems to be a great hammer so far. And like you said it seemed like I was going to have to start searching for a used Snap On hammer and probably over pay for it, but then found them from Dagger Tools and they have them in stock on there website.
I'll have to scoop up the dagger one and compare it. I've been thinking Dagger may be my best source to get some "affordable" hammers to review and suggest to those who don't want to pay for Martin Tools or Snap-On ones. Though they are only marginally cheaper than Martin.
Great video! I often wondered what the heck all those crazy shaped hammers were used for. Good to know the shrinking hammer is ineffective before I use it and make a mess. Thanks buddy
Glad to be of help in expanding knowledge. Some folks have methods for making the shrinking hammer work alright, in the end I've never seen it used in any manner that was worth the effort in my eyes. Too much damage for too little reward. Other shrinking methods are out there and I'll get to them in videos eventually.
Just got 9 bodyhammers I bought at auction all are snap on or Mac im just getting into it...but I've always been fascinated with body hammers because it's a art and I think there cool...if that makes any sense
I’ve been a sheet metal worker for the past 20 years, specializing in custom stainless, copper, brass, etc and own an array of body hammers. I was always taught that plumb/proto hammers are the best hammers available. They’re the only brand I buy, but they only existed from the 40s to the 60s. so finding them is difficult. Their design, both head and octagonal handle has been copied over and over. I’m curious if you have used them and/or have an opinion on them? If you haven’t, I highly recommend you try to track some down. You won’t be disappointed
Really good videos and the animated gestures help! Just wondering if you have any videos for bending crooked stainless trim? I'm working on a piece that is giving me grief.
I like to pick up body hammers at swap meets or estate sales... Unfortunately they are starting to get crazy expensive. Sometimes if I need a special shape I'll grind the shape from mild steel and weld it on a crusty sacrificial hammer. A few times I've heat treated the new head using a makeshift forge made from a charcoal BBQ and a hair dryer.
I collect hammers and have a number of body hammers, mostly Martin and Nupla. Wasn't sure how some were used; very helpful video. BTW, the SO hammers look beautifully made.
I may possibly have over 100 unique body hammers. Fairmount. Heller. Porter Ferguson. Wilde. Snap-On. Blue Point. Herbrand. Plomb. Proto. Pexto. Craftsman. Streamline. Not a single shrinking hammer in the lot! Shrinking is the job of correct placement of hammer-off-dolly.
Thanks @hotrodhippie. I actually bought the harbor freight hammers a while ago and i hate them. Do you think they are redeemable if i swap the handles with wooden ones ?
Can you do a video on how to hammer metal quietly ? The noise of hammering metal is always a problem with neighbours or even just people in the house when you've no where else to work but on the drive in a residential setting. I can wear ear defenders but what about everyone else ?
Shrinkinig hammers are best used with a torch. Heat the metal red hot, tap it down, and cool with water. Shrinking hammers are not supposed to be used cold. Doing so ruins the surface.
Thanks for the tips. I only have three hammers. Is there one you recommend (with a dolly perhaps) for hand planishing. I don't have an english wheel, and I need to flatten the dings on a curvy piece I initially hammered out with a plastic hammer and a sandbag. What do I do next? I have the overall form, just need to get the finish look. on 16 gauge steel. I did order the Key book from Martin. It is arriving later this week.
Unfortunately that's hard to say. Any given day I use a half dozen different dollies and I wish I had more options on hand. I'd really recommend buying as many as you can justify. I always recommend good quality ones like Martin tools / Ron Covell's, but even the cheaper ones have their uses. Namely you can feel less bad about grinding and sanding them into custom shapes.
wyattoneable I like the Ron Fournier enterprises blocking mallets that I have. They are plastic for a "softer" hit but are much heavier than the cheap blocking mallets other folks sell for a much quicker job. If you want to say I'd recommend one of the more media sized ones of those. Like this one: www.fournierenterprises.com/m3/FBM02--fournier-bossing-mallet-02-fbm02.html
If you could only have 1 hammer, what would it be? I know, that question must make your skin crawl. But, if you were a newbie, what would be the few you would rush out and buy?
After an hour on your channel, I found many videos to answer my question. Sounds like I need to invest $299 on a covell set. I’m currently working on a ‘16 Silverado with roof damage. Also plan to turn my ‘01 Tahoe into a ‘59 Apache truck. I’ll need some good tools. Thanks again!
Martin 153GB and the 168 are my go to hammers for door skins, can't stand that 170 door skin hammer. Martin also made a double reverse curve hammer like the Snap on 615 but slightly heavier but discontinued them a few years ago. Dagger tools sells a darn nice copy of the 615. Link to the Martin tools body hammer catalog www.martinsprocket.com/docs//catalogs/industrial%20hand%20tools/industrial%20hand%20tool%20catalog/body-fender-repair-tools-catalog.pdf I collect and restore old hammers and dollies, am way north of 200 hammers. If you check out Amazon.de you can find some super high quality German stuff in designs that US manufacturers no longer make and often times no more money then Martin tools if you keep your eye open.
sevtchevelle I've been wanting to pick up some of the German hammers for a while. Sooner or later I will. I contacted martin about bringing back their reverse curve hammer but was shot down quick. If I ever get to speak to a rep again it will be a topic of conversation for sure.
I've had the same conversation with Martin before about bringing back some older designs. I just picked up some Hazet and Stahlwill hammers for about 37 bucks shipped, you can't beat with a stick. You can also make your own Snappy 615 by buying the Martin 160 or 161 and grinding the curves your self.
i ran into a snapon body hammer at the swap meet but the guy wanted 40 dollars for it, basic pick hammer. how much should i expect to pay for such a hammer ?
Reno's Garage that's about $30-35 below current MSRP. If it's in great shape that's not a bad price. But if it was rough I'd say $25-35. They are warranty. So if you have a snap-on guy sometimes you can turn that old beat up one into a brand new one. So that's probably what they were figuring on. Like my large face one in this video, that was an old one my dad had. My snap-on guy just gave me a brand new one for it cause the waffle face was in poor shape.
I've paid as little as 75 cents for a good Proto..one of my favorite hammers. I rarely see snap-ons but they are pricier new. $40 wasn't a bad starting price if he was willing to bargain.
Those aren't even in the shape I usually aim for. I didn't have time to clean them up before this shoot. But I always aim to keep quality finishes on them. Thanks
Great vid, love your channel man! New subscriber so I'll be going back through your channel and looking to learn some new things! Keep up the good work.
TopTul in the UK makes the reverse curve body hammer. Model JFAA0533. You can get one shipped here to the US, but total is going to be close to same as a used snap on if you can find one - about $90-100. eBay seller or two has them.
A few viewers have pointed out that Dagger Tools has a Reverse Curve hammer at a pretty affordable rate. So if you aren't interested in locating an old one check this one out:
tinyurl.com/y8g9nads
This snapon shrinking hammer at 5:12 works great when using heat, I've owned n used that model for 35 years. You might want to use it with a slap file as a dolly to get full effect.
Woah. Someone who actually knows how to use tools 😮😮
That shrinking hammer was very useful back in the 70s with a torch and much thicker metals. Today's cars not so much. Great video.
Great video . I know its old . I just picked up 6 hammers of different designs from marketplace for 30 bucks! In my experience they are hard to find at swap meets or tool shows. I plan to grow my collection.
Very good video on body hammers for the new guys getting started in bodywork.
Dude the shrinking hammer only works with a hard rubber dolly they are priceless.
This is a great video, and I watched it mainly to see the other uses that someone else has found for different design body hammers. I used to disregard waffle face hammers, but then I met a man who showed me the “right” way to use it. Now I love that hammer. The misconception is that it shrinks by hitting the surface directly, leaving the scars ya hate. That’s not quite the right technique. You want to use it in a glancing manner. The teeth grab the metal and move it in the direction you glance it. It works great in conjunction with heat, but you can use it without. Yes it’ll leave scratches, but a sander and some 80-180 grit sand paper will take care of it.
I usually do glancing blows with all my body hammer work but I guess I usually do use the shrinking hammer in a more direct way. I will attempt to give it another try using your suggestion. However I've found I don't need it really. For shrinking I use a shrinking disc that doesn't scar the metal at all. Thank you for the kind words and input. 👍👍
HotRodHippie I’ve recently been introduced to the shrinking disc and I wholeheartedly agree that it’s a much cleaner and overall faster method of shrinking. Even just using a slapper and a lead shot filled leather bag is much better. I do hope that you’re next attempt with the waffle face hammer will give you a more satisfying result. Even if you can only use it for minor stretched metal working. It’s better than having a body hammer with a side that’s completely useless. Hey brother Thank You for being kind in your reply, and for sharing your knowledge with the rest of the world. I’ve been really enjoying your content and look forward to seeing more!
I am missing a few of those hammers. I think I may have enough control to not rush out and buy the missing ones. I would rather have tols that I do not need than to need tools I do not have. Another great video.
Thank you for sharing, you answered question I have had for years.
G'day again from West Australia Alan😉🙂👍👍
I Am the 3rd generation in my Paternal family side, with hammers reaching back a loooonng way.
One in particular my dad told me my grandfather got made by a Blacksmith in England. Which I believe would be about 150 yrs old. Possibly more grandad died at 112yrs of age. I Love using it for moving metal around.
It has this amazing ring tone when striking metal.
A totally unique sound.
So powerful with little effort. 😉🙂👍👍
Excellent.... More info than expected couple hammers I haven't seen.
dave haberman glad you liked it. I had a lot more to say about hammers than I realized. The first edit of this was 20 minutes long, ha
hey hot rod hippie thanks heaps for the knowledge i appreciate it alot, your a champ and very knowledgeble
Cool video. Nothing like having a snap on hammer and dolly in hand to work with. Lol, one of my go to hammers back in the day was a craftman body hammer with a large round and large square head on the other. It made straightening panels easy, as it felt perfectly balanced.
I'm a hammer collector, I admit. I've bought very few new hammers in the last 40+yrs however I've gotten great buys at garage sales and flea markets. Yes in those odd access situations it's nice to have a hammer to fit the job. Those odd Fairmont hammers I bought one of each when they first came out and a few of the ones you grind to fit. I'm glad I bought those. Good video and explanation.
I'm always looking out for more hammers are flea markets and garage sales. Nothing wrong with that at all.
@@HotRodHippie You can get great hammers and other tools sometimes for $2-$3@ and and those prices it doesn't hurt to modify them for a particular use. I'll have to look, years ago I found a guy in South Carolina who sells hammer handles in bulk and he'll mix up lengths ect. I still have a few, I'll find his email and send it to you.
Hi, I'm Cody and I am a hammer addict... My favorite are my, incredibly old Proto hammers.
Excellent info. I subscribed.
BTW, someone talked about the dangers of striking a chisel with a hammer below. A proper metal chisel becomes dangerous from small shards if allowed to mushroom where the hammer strikes. If the edges are kept chamfered, they are obviously not dangerous to strike with a hammer (though I would use a ball peen for the same reason).
wow compared to so many utube videos, you can really deliver information without getting into useless tangents!
I'll take that as a serious compliment as that's exactly what I attempt to do. Thank you. 👍👍
lol, I just watched your butt welding vs overlapped video and am considering taking this compliment back! just kidding, but you did lose a few points for rambling a bit, happy thanksgiving btw.
@@rob12449 can't win them all. But sometimes to impart information requires telling some random stories to get a point across. It happens.
Have a good holiday. 👍👍
Thanks for this video. Working on the metal finishing phase of my Triumph Spitfire Restoration (you can search for Roundtail Restoration on UA-cam if you want) and am teaching myself how to do all of it. I really like your "how I use it" along with what the manufacturer (or the design) intended. I would appreciate maybe a summation at the end: if you should own hammers, this is what I'd get kind of thing. You mention some that are very useful, but it would be beneficial for me to have a "roundup".
It's a good day when I acquire a new hammer. I've slowed down a bit but they still come my way. I usually massage the outer radius a bit to minimize any chance of marking the metal.The new hammers definitely have been shaped less than the same model old ones. I have 2 Martin hammers marked the same but the radius is very different (and they were brand new. ) 2 Protos also but they were old when I got them.
I don't really know how the hammer making process really goes but I'm betting the final grind is a hand finish process. So I can see that.
I made a video about dressing hammers last year. I should redo it with more demonstration and detail. I always clean up my hammer edges. Even the best ones are fairly harsh.
Martin 165G
This is a metal finishing hammer thats designed to be used with a special dolly that no one makes anymore. I had to have a machine shop make mine.Its a GREAT hammer if you do old school metal finishing and have the proper dolly for it.
thanks for pointing me toward the book... I've been a bodyman for years, but no one has ever been able to explain bumping to me as well as that book does.
Elliot Bradley agreed, it is an excellent source. I should have picked it up long before I did.
Excellent video Kenny. Thank you.
It would be great if showing us small videos about how every tools use, even though the videos are only 5 seconds.
Glad I'm not the only one who can't get a shrinking hammer to do anything other than mangle steel. I'm a total noob, but I cant imagine it doing anything but destroying steel. I have a half dozen body hammers, could always use more. I really need more spoons though...
For decades, Ron Covell has been asked about shrinking hammers in his workshops and he will do a quick demo comparing cold shrinking an area compared to doing the same with a normal hammer or slapper and the only difference is the marks. The ideal in any metal finishing is to not add marks.
brian plumleigh so assuming I have an unused shrinking hammer, should I regrind the thing flat? Slight arch? I'm sure I can make it more useful.
Thanks, very informative 👏👏
Great video I know what your saying about the Snap-on reverse curve I found a used one in reality good shape was expensive but it's in my collection... But Snap-on seem to be the best feel and balance...
Great video, thanks! That long handled Martin hammer could be used to blend a rail PDR style. BTW I have all these hammers and I do PDR.
TopTul in the UK makes the reverse curve body hammer. Model JFAA0533. You can get one shipped here to the US, but total is going to be close to same as a used snap on if you can find one - about $90-100. eBay seller or two has them.
Dagger Tool has a reverse curve body hammer for $30 right now. I have not tried it at all to say its quality. It looks just like the the short lived Fairmount one. I need to get one and check it out.
Great video, I have a hammer small obsession, maybe have about 100 hammers I am guessing not all body hammers though lol
Listing part number and manufacture is most helpful. The snap on bf608 I did not see on there site without part number. I can use that hammer for weapon building.
Yea, Snap-On's site is kind of terrible for being such a big company. Glad to be of help. 👍
For the shrinking hammer u need a shrinking dolly to match. It does mangle the material some but it does work. There is a shrinking hammer that u dont need a shrinking dolly to match. It has a swirly face and rubber on the back so the face can twist to tighten up the material. It does work and doesnt make as much of a mess. There only bad thing about them is that there only good for a few years because the rubber eventually goes hard and makes you have to hit harder to shrink the material so eventually u start to get the marks. For me hot spotting is probably the best way to shrink excess material you just have to be careful on very flat panels cus when its nearly flat then u do it one more time and you start to shrink shape into it.
Hush you. Stop making sense.
I got one of the reverse curve hammers like the one you mentioned from Dagger. I really like it and it seems to be a great hammer so far. And like you said it seemed like I was going to have to start searching for a used Snap On hammer and probably over pay for it, but then found them from Dagger Tools and they have them in stock on there website.
I'll have to scoop up the dagger one and compare it. I've been thinking Dagger may be my best source to get some "affordable" hammers to review and suggest to those who don't want to pay for Martin Tools or Snap-On ones. Though they are only marginally cheaper than Martin.
I think my hammer was between $20-$30.
Skeeter Tomlinson it is $23 right now. I just pinned a comment with a link to it on Dagger's website.
Great video! I often wondered what the heck all those crazy shaped hammers were used for. Good to know the shrinking hammer is ineffective before I use it and make a mess. Thanks buddy
Glad to be of help in expanding knowledge. Some folks have methods for making the shrinking hammer work alright, in the end I've never seen it used in any manner that was worth the effort in my eyes. Too much damage for too little reward. Other shrinking methods are out there and I'll get to them in videos eventually.
It’s effective if,unlike this dickhead,you actually know what you’re doing
Just got 9 bodyhammers I bought at auction all are snap on or Mac im just getting into it...but I've always been fascinated with body hammers because it's a art and I think there cool...if that makes any sense
I’ve been a sheet metal worker for the past 20 years, specializing in custom stainless, copper, brass, etc and own an array of body hammers. I was always taught that plumb/proto hammers are the best hammers available. They’re the only brand I buy, but they only existed from the 40s to the 60s. so finding them is difficult. Their design, both head and octagonal handle has been copied over and over. I’m curious if you have used them and/or have an opinion on them? If you haven’t, I highly recommend you try to track some down. You won’t be disappointed
I've only used completely beat Proto tools so I cannot say. I look out for quality old hammers at every swap meet and yard sale I can.
I love the old green handled Protos. One of the best brands in body hammers
Really good videos and the animated gestures help! Just wondering if you have any videos for bending crooked stainless trim? I'm working on a piece that is giving me grief.
I like to pick up body hammers at swap meets or estate sales... Unfortunately they are starting to get crazy expensive. Sometimes if I need a special shape I'll grind the shape from mild steel and weld it on a crusty sacrificial hammer. A few times I've heat treated the new head using a makeshift forge made from a charcoal BBQ and a hair dryer.
I collect hammers and have a number of body hammers, mostly Martin and Nupla. Wasn't sure how some were used; very helpful video. BTW, the SO hammers look beautifully made.
What's your view on crafted pb hammers from old/used engine valves? I've watched this video and it gave me some nice ideas.
I may possibly have over 100 unique body hammers. Fairmount. Heller. Porter Ferguson. Wilde. Snap-On. Blue Point. Herbrand. Plomb. Proto. Pexto. Craftsman. Streamline. Not a single shrinking hammer in the lot! Shrinking is the job of correct placement of hammer-off-dolly.
Thanks @hotrodhippie. I actually bought the harbor freight hammers a while ago and i hate them. Do you think they are redeemable if i swap the handles with wooden ones ?
Can you do a video on how to hammer metal quietly ? The noise of hammering metal is always a problem with neighbours or even just people in the house when you've no where else to work but on the drive in a residential setting. I can wear ear defenders but what about everyone else ?
Put a welders magnet on the panel, or a heavy G clamp. Deadens the noise a bit.
Where are the Harbor Freight hammers ........ good info
How heavy can this hammers get because I might want to make a Warhammer wit one
Shrinkinig hammers are best used with a torch.
Heat the metal red hot, tap it down, and cool with water. Shrinking hammers are not supposed to be used cold. Doing so ruins the surface.
Thanks for the tips. I only have three hammers. Is there one you recommend (with a dolly perhaps) for hand planishing. I don't have an english wheel, and I need to flatten the dings on a curvy piece I initially hammered out with a plastic hammer and a sandbag. What do I do next? I have the overall form, just need to get the finish look. on 16 gauge steel. I did order the Key book from Martin. It is arriving later this week.
Unfortunately that's hard to say. Any given day I use a half dozen different dollies and I wish I had more options on hand. I'd really recommend buying as many as you can justify. I always recommend good quality ones like Martin tools / Ron Covell's, but even the cheaper ones have their uses. Namely you can feel less bad about grinding and sanding them into custom shapes.
Thanks so much for the explanations. Great suggestion on the book. I'm looking to get a forming hammer, any suggestions?
wyattoneable I like the Ron Fournier enterprises blocking mallets that I have. They are plastic for a "softer" hit but are much heavier than the cheap blocking mallets other folks sell for a much quicker job. If you want to say I'd recommend one of the more media sized ones of those. Like this one: www.fournierenterprises.com/m3/FBM02--fournier-bossing-mallet-02-fbm02.html
If you could only have 1 hammer, what would it be? I know, that question must make your skin crawl. But, if you were a newbie, what would be the few you would rush out and buy?
After an hour on your channel, I found many videos to answer my question. Sounds like I need to invest $299 on a covell set. I’m currently working on a ‘16 Silverado with roof damage. Also plan to turn my ‘01 Tahoe into a ‘59 Apache truck. I’ll need some good tools. Thanks again!
bought my first body hammer and dolly off the snappy truck today..... (dolly.... Hammer was from Matco....)
I have just started making some hammers mainly because at the moment I can't afford to buy them so I made a few lol
If they get the job done nothing wrong with that. Do what you got to do. 👍
E49 charger?
Martin 153GB and the 168 are my go to hammers for door skins, can't stand that 170 door skin hammer. Martin also made a double reverse curve hammer like the Snap on 615 but slightly heavier but discontinued them a few years ago. Dagger tools sells a darn nice copy of the 615.
Link to the Martin tools body hammer catalog
www.martinsprocket.com/docs//catalogs/industrial%20hand%20tools/industrial%20hand%20tool%20catalog/body-fender-repair-tools-catalog.pdf
I collect and restore old hammers and dollies, am way north of 200 hammers.
If you check out Amazon.de you can find some super high quality German stuff in designs that US manufacturers no longer make and often times no more money then Martin tools if you keep your eye open.
sevtchevelle I've been wanting to pick up some of the German hammers for a while. Sooner or later I will.
I contacted martin about bringing back their reverse curve hammer but was shot down quick. If I ever get to speak to a rep again it will be a topic of conversation for sure.
I've had the same conversation with Martin before about bringing back some older designs. I just picked up some Hazet and Stahlwill hammers for about 37 bucks shipped, you can't beat with a stick.
You can also make your own Snappy 615 by buying the Martin 160 or 161 and grinding the curves your self.
Mandić
Most body work tools evolved from cobbler tools 👍✌️
That’s your bread and butter buy every style shape hammer you can get
i ran into a snapon body hammer at the swap meet but the guy wanted 40 dollars for it, basic pick hammer.
how much should i expect to pay for such a hammer ?
Reno's Garage that's about $30-35 below current MSRP. If it's in great shape that's not a bad price. But if it was rough I'd say $25-35. They are warranty. So if you have a snap-on guy sometimes you can turn that old beat up one into a brand new one. So that's probably what they were figuring on. Like my large face one in this video, that was an old one my dad had. My snap-on guy just gave me a brand new one for it cause the waffle face was in poor shape.
not $40 that's a lot for a used hammer ($10? $20?)
thanks for the tip and info :)
I've paid as little as 75 cents for a good Proto..one of my favorite hammers. I rarely see snap-ons but they are pricier new. $40 wasn't a bad starting price if he was willing to bargain.
You need to practice a lot be proficient with the shrinking head. I do notice how smooth you keep finishing faces on your hammers.
Those aren't even in the shape I usually aim for. I didn't have time to clean them up before this shoot. But I always aim to keep quality finishes on them. Thanks
Forgot to mention that my body hammer collection is at 94 at last count.
bill beckett oof I'm envious. I'm always on the look out for them at swap meets and flea markers.
I have a new old stock extra BF615 if you want it.
Blacksmith could make the hammer for you.
I a-door this hammer. I see what you did there.
The background music exported louder than it was during editing, a strange thing. Sorry if it is distracting to anyone.
🚗💥🔨🔨🔨🔨🔨💥
Bammmmm 👍
Who else came here because they looked up the song by Fear Factory?😂
Eastwood blows!
Why move your hands so much sheesh
Souksakhone Chanthachem if I stop I cease to exist. It's a constant existential crisis mixed with a paradox and a side of enigma.
Must be Italian...
Great vid, love your channel man! New subscriber so I'll be going back through your channel and looking to learn some new things! Keep up the good work.
TopTul in the UK makes the reverse curve body hammer. Model JFAA0533. You can get one shipped here to the US, but total is going to be close to same as a used snap on if you can find one - about $90-100. eBay seller or two has them.