Chinese 1000 W ZVS Induction Heater VS. Home Made
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- Опубліковано 26 бер 2016
- Produced with CyberLink PowerDirector 14
See variations of the schematics at my website.
www.crankyyankees.com
Vernon.Henry13@gmail.com
From the home page click on N1CKX - Наука та технологія
There are a lot of people that knows a lot, but very few that can explain things in the way that anyone can understand, like you do. Thanks a lot for taking the time.
Bora, thanks for the nice comment. Makes it worth the work.
Typical winter
Exactly right. I just randomly came across this video and the teaching was so good I just watched it all the way through to the end. What a great teacher.
@@theradiomechanic9625 I'd like to point something out that a non-electronics person would find magical - at time 21:50, the sheetrock screw is turning red hot. And there is nothing visible to explain this.
What this indicates is a capability of all collections of atoms (all objects of matter). This capability is for accelerations of the charged particles inside a matter object - in this case a screw - to reach a very high rate, to the point of glowing red hot.
There are two important aspects to this:
1) if you conducted this exact same experiment in space - outside Earth's atmosphere - THE SCREW WOULD STILL GLOW RED HOT. The bright red color does represent heat, but the coldness of space will not stop the atoms in the screw from reacting to the high frequency induction from the copper coil. The electromagnetic (EM) waves - in the visible part of the EM spectrum, ie, in the 'visible light' spectrum - the electrons in the atoms of the screw are accelerating in back-and-forth oscillations in the 'red' color part of the visible light spectrum.
2) We (a small group of people with physics and elec. engr. backgrounds) rely on the Lorentz force, involving a coil conceptually similar to this one, and a strong, static magnetic field, at right angles to the coil, to create COHERENT accelerations of the charged particles in thin metal layers. At the very high frequencies we use (microwave frequency from a klystron tube feeds our coils), the 'skin effect' prevents the accelerated motions of the charged particles from being deep in the material. We use a thin-film deposition sputter to create very thin layers of metals because of the skin effect.
So at time 21:50, the red-hot glow from the sheet rock screw represents RANDOM accelerations, back-and-forth motions, of the tiny individual particles that make up the screw. Another way is to use a coil and a static magnetic field positioned at a 90 degree angle to the coil and impose COHERENT accelerations of the particles in a metal. In our case, all the particles are working together to "pull the cart in the same direction" instead of being random.
The surprising thing to most (non-technical) people is - the red glow of the screw, with no visible cause.
The surprising thing to most technical people is - the difference between an imposing of random motions (coil only), versus coherent motions (very high frequency coil, static magnetic field orthogonal to the coil, leading to Lorentz force-imposed coherent particle motions).
Your demo is very thought provoking and is a wonderful way for people to get exposed to the invisible force fields they never think about. Thank you!
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"Hit" and "ring" love that description, you just gave me the missing key to so much understanding of electronics, so many dots were just connected for me... if only you were my physics teacher! Learned more in 30 min, than piles of confusion thrown at me over the years. THANK YOU.
Your welcome, and thank YOU for watching.
Two of the main reasons we've converged on polypropylene as the dielectric of choice for power electronics are low dissipation factor and low dielectric absorption. You've provided an excellent example of why these matter.
I join Bora's coment about your very clear, comprehensive explanation of the technical details. Thank's for making such a nice video.!
You are vey welcome, and thanks for watching.
I'm an EE and learned something from the video. The tip about the need for a fast rising input voltage I wouldn't have considered but it makes total sense. Thanks for explaining that in detail.
Thank you for watching, and thank you for taking the time to send a note. Really makes it worth the time to make the videos.
Really nice video. I always wonder if these Chinese induction heaters/zero voltage switches are any good. Your diy coil is probably heating up even more through the skin effect: All the current is flowing on outer part of the conductor with that high frequencies :)
Well, It never crossed my mind that that's what the cap in an ignition circuit was actually for. Makes sense now, thanks!
You will need a 48 to 50 volt supply that can supply around 20 amps of current.
Turn on the power supply first, then use a second switch to turn on the DC to the induction heater.
Yes, you can/could drive the gate with a timer and not have to worry about the circuit starting. This is basically how commercial units work using an oscillator to drive a high power amplifier. These units are basically toys and have been cut to the bone to keep them cheap and simple. Tradeoffs that require smacking the thing to get it to ring. And yes, wire wound resistors can cause issues in R.F. Circuits or even down into the ultrasonic range. That has caused grief for a lot of newly minted engineers.
I have one
The Radio Mechanic
Hey will a 48v 10amp power supply work also? Awesome video, best one I've seen regarding these induction heaters
The Radio Mechanic, I in a past lifetime did electronics as a trade, I have forgotten more than I learned and am so out of touch with current (pardon the pun) tech as to say I would have to go back to tech to try and catch up.
One thing mentioned in this thread does remind me of some resistors I used to have from an older Radar circuit. They were glass encased (for high voltage I think) Bi-Filar wound wire resistors to reduce the inductive influence on the circuit they were used in. I also remember that carbon resistors with the way they gain different values can also have this inductive effect to perhaps a lesser extent in a very high frequency cct.
Please correct me if I am wrong in saying that as I think I should do a refresher of sorts and would prefer to have good information than go on believing something that is wrong.
Cheers from John, Australia.
That transformer and capacitor you found..Brings a tear in my eye..How come i never find those!
Thank you for giving me some really great ideas on improving this heater. Peace too.
Thanks for the video. I've looked at this circuit before and thought that if the transistors come on at the same time, it would just be a dead short from the supply to ground through the transistors. You are the first person I have seen that has mentioned that.
This blew my mind, thank you for this video
My mind has been gone for a long time....Your welcome....
Okay, overall and excellent video, and yes a ZVS is quite simply a high power oscillator circuit, and the demonstration with the old ignition coil is a very good example of resonant ringing, and I have spent a while reading through some of the more than 600 comments, and it would take forever to address all of them, so I'm just going to hit on a couple, one fellow asked if you could place the coil away from the ZVS and feed it with heavy wire, and the answer to that is yes, but it can only be done if you run a twisted pair of wires, and the resonating capacitors have to stay with the coil, the reson for this is as he mentioned the circulating current between the coil and capacitors is quite high actually in some cases several hundred amps, which is why it's hard to find capacitors that will tolerate the abuse, while the current passing through the twisted pair will only be about half of the supply current, the other reason is, if you add any conductor length between the coil and the resonating capacitors, it becomes apart of the restaurant circuit, there by adding to the coils inductance, and lowering the oscillating frequency, and thereby radiating some of the high frequency magnetic field away from the work where it's needed. The reason for the twisted pair is that it lowers the inductance of the two conductors as the current is flowing in opposite directions, which causes the magnetic field to cancel out, and the twisting cancles out the electrostatic radiation, not that the electrostatic radiation is a problem at those low voltages but just good practice, I mean a piece of zipp cord will work if is all you have, or if you have a piece of 2 conductor SO or SJO that is essentially a twisted pair with a jacket. And no orbis that is not the case, if it were UHF radio couldn't exist, this thing is running at 95.5Khz compared to the AC mains it's high frequency, but in the world of RF it's barely high enough to qualify as RF, no the problem is that it falls victim to it's own magnetic field, even the copper tubing gets hot for the same reason, it's own diameter is large enough to cause it to be inductively heated, and the magnetic field is much more intense near the coil, with small diameter objects, like that drywall screw it gets alot hotter alot faster if you move over to the edge of the coil where the field is more intense, therefore if you want the coil to not heat it's self then yes like one fellow said take a bunch of small gauge magnet wire, and it has to be magnet wire, because the strands cannot touch one another electrically, physically yes, it's like laminating an iron core for a transformer, each lamination is dipped in insulating varnish so that they don't make contact with one another otherwise they would act like a shorted turn secondary and would get extremely hot and burn the whole thing up, if you look at the coil in one of these inductive cook tops you will see that it uses a pancake coil that is many strands of paralleled finely stranded copper magnet wire. Now as for the ignition coil it doesn't need to have that capacitor across it to make it ring, remember that secondary winding of many hundreds of turns, that was under the yellow stickey note, there's a fairly large amount of naturally occurring capacitance between the turns, enough to make it ring, the problem is that the field needs to collapse rapidly, well, with out the capacitor there, it cannot do that, the reason it cannot is because as the connection is broken, either through a set of braker points, or by pulling the wire away from the coil terminal is that the field starts to collapse rapidly causing the polarity of the coil to reverse and the voltage to soure to many times the applied voltage which creates a plasma between the contact points and it's this plasma that used to burn up the breaker points in the old school ignition system, but the plasma is conductive, so as the contact points move away from each other and the plasma grows in length it becomes higher in resistance and dissipates more power finely when it breaks there's not enough energy left to produce a ringing, what the capacitor does here is slow down the collapse of the magnetic field enough to allow the contact points to break the circuit without creating the plasma which allows the field to collapse much faster than it would have. However if you use a high voltage power mosfet to act as the braker points it's much faster the field collapse is much faster resulting in a lot higher ringing and a much higher voltage and a much hotter spark, and for anyone reading this, mosfets with a drain to source voltage of at least 400 volts is a must, as the collapsing field voltage can soure into the mid 300's on the primary winding producing 35 to 40 KV on the secondary.
Very helpful info. I have a Chinese IDH and have not tried it at higher than 24vdc. Now I will be trying it at 36vdc as they recommend. Your explanation convinced me that it will handle the power and I can get some use out of my heater.
The advice you give at 8:00 is exactly why the guy of channel "AVE" blew up his induction rig and blamed the chinese.
I just received a supposedly 1000W 50A from china (35$ !), can't wait to try it out !! I'm hoping I can get rid of my acetylene torch after that !
I don't understand why they didn't add the needed components to prevent a slow rise from locking it up in the first place, but it does look like they attempted to point it out.
you cannot control a self driven oscillator like that. soft start is only available with a controlled oscillator.
+Richard Smith yeah, i bet i can put an optocoupler into the gd and the input to a capacitor.
Wow love the test gear you have! Now I understand why I blew up my Chinese ZVS unit ...thank you.
Your Welcome, thank you for watching.
I work on old motorcycle that have points in the ignition system and have never never been told anything close to what you talk about in your side tangent!
now it all makes sense!
One of the projects on my back burner is a flyback transformer Plasma Speaker.
those are easy n fun!!!
great mosfets at motherboards...
thanks, it is a nice video. Just if we use two boards and the output link to one coil. is this way increase the watts to 2000w
Thanks for watching, and thanks for the nice note. Actually having fun making these when I get time. And yes, many ways to make a supply. A little imagination is all it takes.
Fascinating heads up
What an excellent demonstration. Thank you.
Perfect explanation.
No heat sink/transfer compound between the switching transistors/Mosfets and heat shields, which seems to be the norm with these and similar products.
Made to a price of course.
I've had to add it myself.
16min - So glad I'm not the only one who forgets which way to turn the lever for Close Ups or Wide Angle.
That was an excellent video! I have one of the Chinese induction heaters and you probably just saved me a lot of grief. Thanks for taking the time to post this. Greetings from Arizona.
Where at in AZ. Prescott Valley for me.
@@Brokendiode I'm in Apache Junction.
A little trick we used to use on the old tube amps when you're fighting the 120 HZ frequency out of the power transformer.. you could use a small choke and cross it with a capacitor..
The voltage will rise so you need a high voltage capacitor. It's a one-hit wonder..... You can Target that frequency.
It worked very well it killing the 120 hz hum. But because you're targeting just one frequency in building a tank circuit.. Other odd harmonics find their way through.
No wonder mine doesn't work well.
Thanks for dedicate your time help others see a very important point.
May I ask if I use a switching stick welding (MMA ) typically 54VDC as a power supply, would it damage the chip. Suppose my fans can handle the voltage.
Outstanding video. Thanks for explaining everything so well.
HI Ian, Thank you. And thanks for watching.
The feedthrough capacitors on your home brew unit have metal cases. With RF flowing axially the metal shells are going to act like a one turn transformer with a shorted secondary. It's going to drain power and get hot as hell.
Thanks for making such an informative video! I’m a bit late but I was wondering if it is possible to connect several of these in parallel to power a single coil without having any of the transistors blowing up? I’ll be fitting a switch between the power supply and the units to ensure a fast rise time. My main concern is if transistors from two or three different units ‘lock on’ with each other if they start up at the same time, if that is possible? Or would it be absolutely fine and just create a more powerful sin wave, with the frequency remaining the same and the power going up by 1kW per additional unit? Thanks in advance,
- Jordan
THANKS FOR THE GREAT INFORMATIVE VIDEO! Please: What is the capacitance and voltage rating of a good cap to connect across the primary of the ignition coil for good oscillating performance?
Thanks for the information and excellent video you are very good at explaining each process.
Your Welcome, Thank You for Watching......
This is pretty cool. I'm looking into a fun alternative to my propane blacksmithing forge.
Thank you for the video. I want to order one of these and use two lead acid car batteries in series for an input of 24 volts. What kind of on / off switch do you recommend? This will be an experimental project for annealing rifle brass casing in preperation for reloading.
Can you please tell me the ratings (voltage & capacitance) on each of your Russian feed-through capacitors and how you have then arranged in your circuit? I have some that look very similar and would like to try them. THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR SUCH A GREAT VIDEO!!!
Oh nice I just left Manch a lil over a year ago, coulda had some great project fun you may have seen me in the local clubs (if ever in any) working on the pool tables for the haunts! Anyway great vid!!
Before seeing this video I couldn't figure out why my zvs induction heater was blOwing off continuously on transformer power supply now I've figured it out thanks!
Your welcome, and thanks for watching.
Really a very thorough explanation. I was looking at these because they are very cheap way of induction melting. Now I have to find a better power supply
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for the great video and perfect explanation!
Do you think, it would be possible/reasonable to change the frequency by using different coils with other dimensions (and therefore different induction)?
I would like to use such device for hardening the surface of tools and vary the skin effect by using different frequencies. (Or do you think, the tool is to weak for this, and I have to use a modified induction stove instead?) Thank you! :-)
It seems the coil made from copper tubing are touching in some spots and wherefore shorting?
Nice video ! Think it's not the serie's resistor which prevent the circuit from working while there is a progressive rising but good analogy anymore :)
Thanks for watching....
Excellent comparison. Immediatelly subbed to your channel. Keep good work!
Thank you, appreciate the support.
nice video... It looks like you know exactly how these things work, I just got one a 900w Im planing on making a low laying fog machine, heat up water and spray it on to dri ice, Im planing on reduce the diameter of the coil to about 1inch and increase the number of turns so I could increas the heating area.
keep up the videos... 👍
excellent equipment you have thanks, just let me know how long two devices (chines version) can work none-stop?
thanks
HI Seyed, You are welcome. The answer to your question is difficult to exactly define. It will depend a lot on how much power is injected and what is done for cooling. My Home made unit will over heat the capacitors within a few minutes. The Chinese unit runs much longer as it has R.F. rated capacitors used in cook top units. Also the coil on my home made unit gets very hot as it is simply made from wire. The Chinese unit uses copper tube/pipe which I circulate water through. I have also mounted a fan to cool the capacitors. The fan is rated for 220 volts but I run it on 120 so it is very quiet. With 48 volts in and about 10 amps ( 480 watts input ) I can safely run for at least 30 minutes. The real limitation is the capacitors. They are rated for 50 KHz and I am running them at 3 times that frequency so they get hot. R.F. heating is a big issue with designing these units.
You can wind a larger coil if desired without much problem. The main issue is pumping enough power into the unit to make it melt the aluminum.
This unit is basically a toy. But if you have a power supply around 50 volts and 30 amps is should just be enough to make it work.
so... 2 microwave transformers rewinded.... cool project...
21:29 thanks for that annotation, that was exactly my question on another ZVS video
Thanks for watching, glad I could help.
Well stated explanation of tank circuit. Might refer others to this vid just for that.
When you show your drawings of the oscillating current, Is each FET turned on for, say, the positive cycle, and than the other FET conducts for the negative cycle only, going 1/2 cycle for each switching of the LC circuit? This would explain the name "Zero Voltage Switch (ZVS). I have watched MANY videos on ZVS drivers, but virtually none even say what ZVS stands for, much less than what it actually means! So, am I correct that that each transistor alternates, say, at 50kHz for a 100kHz oscillation?
Thank you VERY MUCH for everything!!!
Thanks, that was most informative. I watched the whole thing through.
Thanks for watching and the nice words. A nice counter to the comments from "Daite Dve" who said to me quote "Dude you are Soooo Boring." Cant win them all. :-)
Wow, thanks very much, I have just learnt a lot just now. Thank you very much
Forgive me, if I missed it, but are you running a bridge rectifier on your transformer for the power supply, or is this an AC circuit directly from the secondary winding(s)?
I just started looking into these "home brew" induction heaters, and haven't seen the schematics in detail as I'm just using my phone while away from home.
Great video, thanks!
Thank you very very much for sharing your knowledge and pointing out the point no. 9 which I did NOT understand before watching your video.
Question. Do I also need a capasitor after poer suply and before second swith/relay/timer?
If yes, what capacity is needed for about 48-50 output volt from power supply?
Regards
Hello, no I don't have any caps after the supply. I just turn on the supply then turn on the power to the Unit. Thanks for watching.
Good job on clearing up item 9
Hi, Thank you for a very interesting video. I learned a lot. I have a couple of questions thou and I am hoping if you could help me? first Crusible was slightly bigger than the wounded coil, so I tried to open it a bet and that is where all my problems started. The head shrinks got very very hot without any power going to the coil!? So I wanted to use it for warming liquid, and that wouldn't work too :( I have to buy new coil for it, or just try to make one which is like the first one, or is it possible to make a new coil which is a bet bigger and can work for me? Thank you for your help
That's really just a great video man! What I would be interested in would be how different work coils do effect the heating. How to do those calculations? How should I modify the work coil when I am using a 42V PSU, for example?
I don't know anything about electronics and therefore have no idea what this video is about but it sure was interesting to watch.
another question :) If you get two of them with 2 pices of coil which would cover the crusibles then you have 2 times as power !?
In the schematic at about 3:35 shouldn't a pair of fast diodes be used to protect the MOSFET gates for the flip-flop operation?
I am really learning a lot from this video you made. Have a few questions for you Sir. Since the spark from the ignition coil is blue, which means super hot spark and twenty plus thousand volts for sure has jumped the plug gap. Since you used a capacitor which oscillates a number of times, does the spark from the coil also ring a few times during the spark ??? I had a lawn mower that had a ignition system that did not have a capacitor and the spark worked but not as intensely as the capacitor one. How did they make that happen ??? Thanks and peace Sir too.
Hi Radio Mechanic, why doesn't the work piece move under application of the magnetic field ? I would be worried that the work piece (or the induction heater) would have a rapid and strong movement to maximise flux linkage - parts could topple over, vibrate, spill etc. due to movement.
Excellent question, and the answer is - it does! If you look at the video about soldering PL-259 connectors, and even with the video about the solder pot you will see the solder jump up when the relay turns on the DC power (after it is molten). Small pieces of aluminum in a crucible will "stand up" when the power is applied also. They try to align with the magnetic flux down the center of the coil. The force is not extremely strong, but is present. There is a video on you tube ( forget the title ) where the first three turns of a large induction coil have been reversed. In the video the work piece "levitates" in the field until the part becomes molten and looses magnetic properties, then falls through the coil.
I think that with the high currents involved in these heaters you are better off going point-to-point rather than PCB.
And you are better off using a bunch of smaller value caps rather than a few high value caps for resonating your coil. The circulating currents here are probably hundreds of amps. So you want to split this current up, and also a smaller ESR loss resistance means higher tank currents. This gives you more heating power for a given input power.
Here in the U.S. we have a home improvement stores ( Home Depot and Lowes ) both sell them. Just do a search for counter top inductive cook stove. There are many.
Have you looked at the specs of these cooktops to see if scavenged cooktops components could be repurposed?
Thanks, a nice video. Why are the transistors not interlocked so they cannot turn on together? I've spent many years working on commercial inverters (usually H drive config) and no matter what happens at the battery end they will not get locked up. However one drop of condensation on the PCB.......
Thank you for the explanation on the power supply rising time!
You are very welcome. And Thank you for watching.
Excellent discussion & demo! Subscribed and Liked! You didn't mention the rating on the Zener diodes, but I assume you used Zener diodes less than 20V or in conservative accordance with the limitations on the data sheet?
Thank you, an thanks for watching. The Zener diode is chosen to keep the gate within safe parameters. So yes, check the data sheet and determine what voltage high enough to turn on the FET's 100% but below the maximum safe voltage. Pretty large window.
THANKS FOR THE GREAT VIDEO!!!!
I am somewhat new with ZVS. I have the ebay ZVS board. I need a "final" output of about 600VAC peak at 10A max to connect to a fullwave bridge made of four SiC diodes. What do you suggest I use at the ZVS output...perhaps a type of HF high current transformer??
extremely informative video. Great job
I have not put them in an induction heater yet, but I wound my own capacitor. Started with with an aluminum tube about .25in bore. Wrapped layers of wax paper and aluminum foil from a grocery store, to a diameter that just fits inside a 3/4" copper pipe. I left one layer of foil in contact with the inside tube and one in contact with the copper tube. Slipped the roll in to the coper tube and potted the end with epoxy. The filled with mineral oil being careful not to get any on the potting area for the top end, and potted it.
I can then run coolant thru the inside, and the large area also helps keep it cool.
Hi, I may be a bit late to the party, but what do you think about microwave capacitors? They should be suitable, aren't they?
Also, I thought about getting an old induction cooker and scrapping it for parts. Since its the same technology I think it should work. Basically I just need to wind a new coil and get around the cooking exclusive safety mechanisms. Or am I dunning krügering it and its more difficult?
Have you made a video of your completed solder pot?
I have noticed that, when using the graphite crucible, the current rises to well over 30 amps at 24 volts. Even with fan cooling for the pcb and with water circulating through the coil, the Mosfet heat sinks get quite hot. I now put thermal grease on the Mosfets. Maybe that's why you didn't feel much heat on the heat sinks?
I'm on my 4th one now, having probably destroyed more of them than anybody else will admit to. Recently I put up a small webpage about my progress (or lack thereof) with these things, but I don't think this comment will post if I put the link here. If anybody is interested, it's in the computing section of my website, spaco with the organization extension.
Have a video called "Inductively Heated Solder Pot - It's Alive" that shows it in action. On a bread board, ugly construction but fully functional. Another Video Called "Soldering PL-259 and N connectors" that show me using it to make up cables. Works like a charm. Heats several ounces of solder to fully molten in about 40 seconds.
Would attaching a switch to my 12VDC supply battery be sufficient to have a fast rise time pulse, or would the minuscule bouncing of the switch being put in the on position wreck the circuit too?
Does the metal you will be melting and re melting react the same as steel? I would think that being nonferrous would make that a bit different... Just curious. Great Vid, very informative, thank you for going a bit in depth. Now Subscribed. Michael in Colorado.
Thanks for this informative video (I'll definitely be checking out more of your vids!)! I was waiting the whole time (since you are also clearly a fan of analogies) for a "ringing the bell with the fast rise-time of a hammer hit" analogy, and that attempting to do a soft-start was like hitting the bell with a soft object, this just wouldn't have the high frequency component to excite at the resonant frequency of the tank! (Spoken as a radio amateur also of course!)
...great explanation (if not one of the best I've heard, and another great analogy!) and use of the automotive ignition system, also! 73 KA1-RBP
Can you make a small box cup for the capacitors and the transistors and have liquid nitrogen to cool them
If you don’t mind can I ask a question? If I wanted to temper some steel and the curie affect starts while it’s only cherry red how do you get up to those sort of white hot temperatures needed before quenching it?
Connected this to a 25A DC SSR. SSR fried after
Probably R.F. is betting back into the SSR. I measured a few hundred volts of R.F. on the working coil. I would try a combination of higher rated current SSR, Flyback diode and put a choke between the unit and the SSR.
One SSR mfr provides a 100V, 10A diode to be placed across an inductive load. When the SSR turns off, the magnetic fields will ram current against the now open SSR, easily damaging it. The diode allows these currents to recirculate in the load until they have lost their energy.
My PS is 36V, 16A, will add a 100V 30A diode across load to see if that'll prevent burnout.
Will also as you suggested use at least 40A SSR. Thanks.
His home-brew version is similar to early inverters, which used simple SCRs as the power switching elements. The oscilloscope views showing the DC-separated AC half-cycles give a clue to how SCRs were made to turn off... zero current flow does it.
I want to melt and make bars out of scrap silver and silver plate, so will the Chinese model melt silver..? I also have another question could you not recoil the copper pipe into a bigger opening maybe even use say 3 units together so a new copper coil wrapped up into three units into one....?
Very interesting video demonstration! What a model of capacitors they are, exactly! Voltage and current supported by capacitors! Thank you very much!
Honest comments, you're a tribute to humanity.
Useful review, & lots of good information. Thanks!
Thanks, and Thanks for watching.
My question would be how can I modify it to make it handle more power. Better transistors, any suggestions? More caps in parallel ? Can you put two transistors in parallel, say two on each side? I just picked mine up from china and it works a treat. But I want more. My psu goes up to 56 volts @ 12a, but I've got it set at 48 for now.Also what affect would having the coil on the end of a long 1m cable have? I'm making mine into a handheld unit to heat up rusted nuts on cars for easier removal.Also what design of coil is the best? One with more turns of thinner guage wire, or just a few thick coils.
Very informative video, well done. What I am curious of is given the relatively low frequency (hundreds of kilohertz) could you use a microcontroller to just drive the gates of the two MOSFETS directly, at whatever frequency you like? For deeper penetration go with a lower frequency? Wondering your thoughts on that..
Hello Goofy, yes absolutely you can do that. And that would eliminate the issue of the start up as well. These are just built to be as cheap as possible with the fewest parts count they can spec. Cheap was the idea behind the design. Thanks for watching.
Is it possible to modify this for PDR (Paintless Dent Repair) like the PDR T-Hotbox? Obviously the wiring for the horseshoe probe would be needed.
i too just purchased one of these units the unit i found has a fan on top otherwise the same but would you have a suggestion on what type of tranformer would have a fast enough rise time to support this unit and i also was thinking of poweing this unit from my shop generator thanks for the video i bought this for my knife forge to heat my prjects any input is appreciated
great video, can you just a use longer coil with double number of turns ?
Thanks for sharing. Very informative/educational and very good setup. You are absolutely right about capacitors. Inspiring me to go out and try again! Kind Regards. Pablo
Your welcome....
Thumbs UP! Very good tutorial, thanks. I am looking at buying an 1800 Watt one of these and having read the ebay add was confused about the supply voltage rise time.
I would have cooked the thing first go had I not seen this video. I like yourself have and want to use a Variac to control the output/heat so again this was the perfect video for my education.
Thanks again, cheers from John, Australia.
PS Just Subscribed.
Hi Joandar, Your welcome. Thanks for stopping by.
Is there any safety hazards when using this with low voltage supply? I'm worried about the LC circuit shocking me.
Which one is better between the Harborfreight 750 watts inverter and Chinese 1000 W ZVS induction heater?
Hiya, thanks for a great video!
How would this setup work out with extending cables to a handle with a secondary switch where the coil is mounted? Jumper cables or something massive to reduce voltage drop..
Would be a nice and handy setup for car repairs where space is limited.
Long feed lines to the coil might prevent it from oscillation. There actually is a commercial unit on the market for automotive work. Everything is built into the handle.
i want to know that if we have to make it bigger or need to increase the number turns and the radius of primary coil do we need to add some thing to the circut or trhis can work
Hi RM, Would this Chinese inductor be suitable for use on 13mm exhaust bolts? I would also like to use the wire type coils as used with "bolt buster" and the likes due to the location of the bolts, is that possible? I see that when use the inductor you don't use cooling, is cooling necessary? If cooling is needed can you point me in the right direction? As I would be using the device as a "mobile device" is it possible to fit a case for handling? If so can you recommend a case? Would the smaller unit be adequate for the job I'm doing? Finally can you recommend a cheap power supply? Thanks in advance, Mark
Nice demonstration,
What is your suggestion, if I use this circuit to build a cooktop which can run over 24v through solar panels....
My idea is to get solar power directly and utilize it for cooking purpose...
I want to buy or build something like this to heat 1/2" x 1/2" square stock so it can be bent in a hand scroll bender. I have several high wattage 24 volt omron industrial power supplies, do you think 24 volt supplies and this Chinese induction heater would be powerful enough to heat a 2-3" of 1/2" square bar. Thanks
Is it possible to use a larger coil? So you could use a large crusable for aluminum melting?
Thanks so much for this video!!! I have been needing to produce a single pulse/polarity/hot (as practical) spark from an automotive ignition coil: do you have any ideas?
Thanks again...
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Very nice video !
Congratulations !
Good video, you have a new subscriber. Many thanks for sharing, learned a lot 👍👍
Thanks for watching. Appreciate the feedback.
Thanks for the vid! Very informative.
Would this be enough to heat a short length of 48mm x 3mm wall steel pipe to red hot?
Also regarding power supplies, would it be wise to connect 2x 230v mains -> 12v 20a supplies in parallel to achieve 24v?
Hi Paddy, most power supplies can be connected in series very safely. ( I think that is what you intended to say ) Parallel will give you 12 volts at 40 amps, series will give you 24 volts at 20 amps. Probably won't heat it red, but give it a try. Won't hurt to try. Better run cooling water through the coil.
Some Comments:1. Since the switching frequency of the Chinese module is half of yours the switching losses will be half. However, the lower frequencies will only work with steel or ferrous metals. High frequencies > 180Khz will allow the induction heater to work with brass, solder, alum. and perhaps copper.2. Copper wire vs Copper tubing. Your 10 gauge wire will not be able to handle higher current do to the skin effect. All of the current will flow through just the outer skin of the wire. Copper tubing will perform better since it has a larger surface area.3. The biggest problem that cause blown transistors is induction spikes with the transistor turn off. Even if you're putting in low voltage, the tank can create much higher voltage spikes that exceed the transistor voltage limit. This is usually lead to sudden and dramatic transistor failures. At higher input voltage, snubbers must be used to clamp the induction spikes so they don't exceed the transistor's voltage limit.
Hi Guy, thanks for the insight. When time permits I may try winding another coil from tubing and bring the frequency up. I totally understand the circulating currents and voltages involved.
However you still need to hit the things with full starting voltage ( or high enough to make the tank circuit ring ) or both transistors will come on together and basically explode. Once it is in oscillation you can bring the voltage down to reduce power with no problems. Haven't blown a single transistor other than the very first attempt where I connected the supply then turned it on.