You nailed it boss! No Schrader valve to attach a pump gauge, soooo helping daughter, just like you. Old car hasn't been started in 18 months. No start, but, like you suggested, a squirt of starter fluid caused it to turn over, thereby guaranteeing electrical system was good...just no fuel. I checked the shutoff switch in the passenger's side footwell behind the little access panel, and the switch was fully depressed. No start with a change of the fuel relay or the fuel fuze either. So, 4 Philips screws removed from the access panel under the rear seat, drivers side. Everything accessible & visible. Squeezed the clamps off the two fuel lines (both sides) and zero pressure noted. Then, off to the junkyard where I got a fuel pump from a 2004 Escape. Once back home, the two electrical connectors were removed and the light blue large retaining ring that holds the assembly in place was spun off (large hammer and screwdriver); lifted the pump out, fuel filter (strainer or "sock") side removed FIRST, then float unit removed last. Came out easy. Installed the junkyard part and noted, while it didn't seem to fit, trust me, you HAVE TO push down on the fuel pump, then engage the light blue retaining ring till snug, followed by a couple of taps with a hammer. I had a 2002 Escape, and replace it with a pump off a 2004. My car's was manufactured in 02/2002, while the 2004 car model was sporting a 12/2002 manufacture date. Go figure. Ford must have purchased a trainload. Anyway, hooked up both electrical connectors, turned the key, and you could hear the pump starting up. Waited 5-10 seconds, and the car fired right up...first try. So, no fancy gauge, $3 buck can of starter fluid and a Pick 'n Pull $15.00 factory fuel pump and I was on the way. Well done, good video and this was one of the EASIER jobs any DIY'er with knowledge of two screwdrivers and a hammer can accomplish, 30 minutes tops and that assumes you're going slow. Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
That stupid connector is the hardest part. My check engine light went on after, but maybe because I got the cheap$30 one. Literally writing that as you informed us it was the second replacement lol.
Thank you so much for an awesome explanation of things to look for prior to changing the fuel pump. Nice little nugget of information on making sure the plugs match up prior to installation!😉! Thanks again brother!
Thanks buddy for this video, I didn't know for that switch on the passenger side! Save me a lot of time and money. All the time I was convinced that fuel pump went out and then when I saw this video I said I would give a try and I solve my problem! Thanks
You could add that if installing during low temperatures it is a good idea to warm the screw on retainer in boiling water before installing. I was unable to get mine on until I did that. Went on easy when warmed thoroughly.
I never thought of that, but good tip. Also, make sure your car only breaks down in mild weather. No fun doing this in 22 degree weather stuck in Jersey.
Another thing u can try with fuel pump detection... remove the gas cap and try to start... gravity can force fuel thru the lines w/o pressure causing the car to suck fuel thru the line rather than being pumped... If it attempts to start or does but then quits when u press the gas pedal, the pump is possibly (likely) an issue. The trick does work on top tank fed pumps as well as bottom tank pumps. Had a dealer mechanic show me that trick.
Sorry man but if you are working on shit normally buy the damn tester, they are $50 at harbor freight and work great. First test you should always do is listen for the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is running there is no need to check the switch in the kick panel, or the relays. I have changed many pumps that were running but weren't putting out enough pressure, only figured that out because of my pressure tester. Sometimes you can get lucky and cycle the key on and off a dozen times and see if the motor kicks off. Another tip if you can't hear the pump running, have someone turn the key on while you are under the vehicle and smack the bottom of the tank where the pump is. Sometimes you get lucky and it will kick off, drive straight home and dont shut it off.
I wish I read this,my engine was flooded with gas add starting fluid,kaboom my intake blew up like one of these loud fireworks,backfired the plastic intake had no chance,ford made it easy to replace it could be dangerous too much starting fluid.
How much psi does the new pump generate? Thanks. I have an Escape 2002 V6 3.0L and I think is over pressured, around 70 psi on testing pivot. It is located on injector rail. Haynes manual indicates for my model and year 39 to 55 psi. Mine pump generates 70 psi and it consume 6.9A.
well, yeah she's gettin' spark, so it ain't that probably the fuel pump sending unit, could be just a bad set of plugs or a coil (or coil pack on some cars) , it'll get gas but no spark then, or bad spark and won't kick over but yeah some cars / trucks will have some issues with the pumps if they are old, if the tank get too low, or if you get into a fender bender or bump into a tree, some cars and trucks shut down the pump, electronic sensor BS some cars even have major issues with rainy weather or if you run the wrong fuel (vapor lock)
You nailed it boss! No Schrader valve to attach a pump gauge, soooo helping daughter, just like you. Old car hasn't been started in 18 months. No start, but, like you suggested, a squirt of starter fluid caused it to turn over, thereby guaranteeing electrical system was good...just no fuel. I checked the shutoff switch in the passenger's side footwell behind the little access panel, and the switch was fully depressed. No start with a change of the fuel relay or the fuel fuze either. So, 4 Philips screws removed from the access panel under the rear seat, drivers side. Everything accessible & visible. Squeezed the clamps off the two fuel lines (both sides) and zero pressure noted. Then, off to the junkyard where I got a fuel pump from a 2004 Escape. Once back home, the two electrical connectors were removed and the light blue large retaining ring that holds the assembly in place was spun off (large hammer and screwdriver); lifted the pump out, fuel filter (strainer or "sock") side removed FIRST, then float unit removed last. Came out easy. Installed the junkyard part and noted, while it didn't seem to fit, trust me, you HAVE TO push down on the fuel pump, then engage the light blue retaining ring till snug, followed by a couple of taps with a hammer. I had a 2002 Escape, and replace it with a pump off a 2004. My car's was manufactured in 02/2002, while the 2004 car model was sporting a 12/2002 manufacture date. Go figure. Ford must have purchased a trainload. Anyway, hooked up both electrical connectors, turned the key, and you could hear the pump starting up. Waited 5-10 seconds, and the car fired right up...first try. So, no fancy gauge, $3 buck can of starter fluid and a Pick 'n Pull $15.00 factory fuel pump and I was on the way. Well done, good video and this was one of the EASIER jobs any DIY'er with knowledge of two screwdrivers and a hammer can accomplish, 30 minutes tops and that assumes you're going slow. Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
Wow. I almost spent a fortune paying mechanics. Just had to reset the fuel after a minor collision. Great stuff
That stupid connector is the hardest part. My check engine light went on after, but maybe because I got the cheap$30 one. Literally writing that as you informed us it was the second replacement lol.
Thank you so much for an awesome explanation of things to look for prior to changing the fuel pump. Nice little nugget of information on making sure the plugs match up prior to installation!😉!
Thanks again brother!
Thanks buddy for this video, I didn't know for that switch on the passenger side! Save me a lot of time and money. All the time I was convinced that fuel pump went out and then when I saw this video I said I would give a try and I solve my problem! Thanks
Great video! Thanks for covering all the minor little details.
im soooo thankful for these kinds of videos this happened to me yesterday im waiting for my fuel pump to get here so I can get it to start
You could add that if installing during low temperatures it is a good idea to warm the screw on retainer in boiling water before installing. I was unable to get mine on until I did that. Went on easy when warmed thoroughly.
I never thought of that, but good tip. Also, make sure your car only breaks down in mild weather. No fun doing this in 22 degree weather stuck in Jersey.
Best video I’ve seen in a while. Thanks
Another thing u can try with fuel pump detection... remove the gas cap and try to start... gravity can force fuel thru the lines w/o pressure causing the car to suck fuel thru the line rather than being pumped... If it attempts to start or does but then quits when u press the gas pedal, the pump is possibly (likely) an issue. The trick does work on top tank fed pumps as well as bottom tank pumps. Had a dealer mechanic show me that trick.
Thanks, mine would run a little then cut off, making me doubt it was the pump!
I'd also check the fuel pump fuse and relay in the fuse box up in the motor compartment. They are a lot cheaper than a new pump !
Sorry man but if you are working on shit normally buy the damn tester, they are $50 at harbor freight and work great. First test you should always do is listen for the fuel pump. If the fuel pump is running there is no need to check the switch in the kick panel, or the relays. I have changed many pumps that were running but weren't putting out enough pressure, only figured that out because of my pressure tester. Sometimes you can get lucky and cycle the key on and off a dozen times and see if the motor kicks off. Another tip if you can't hear the pump running, have someone turn the key on while you are under the vehicle and smack the bottom of the tank where the pump is. Sometimes you get lucky and it will kick off, drive straight home and dont shut it off.
My 2007 Escape has the crank no start.I'm going to give it a go tomorrow,thanks.
Be careful when using the starting fluid and do not use to much. Only use small amounts to get the engine to crank
Shep T.V. thanks very helpfull
I wish I read this,my engine was flooded with gas add starting fluid,kaboom my intake blew up like one of these loud fireworks,backfired the plastic intake had no chance,ford made it easy to replace it could be dangerous too much starting fluid.
Shouldn't checking to see if you have current going to the fuel pump first be part if the truobleshooting?
You saved me
Awesome ill try these tomorrow!
Thats how my 07 f150 sounded when the spark plug blew out
How much psi does the new pump generate? Thanks. I have an Escape 2002 V6 3.0L and I think is over pressured, around 70 psi on testing pivot. It is located on injector rail. Haynes manual indicates for my model and year 39 to 55 psi. Mine pump generates 70 psi and it consume 6.9A.
well, yeah she's gettin' spark, so it ain't that
probably the fuel pump sending unit, could be just a bad set of plugs or a coil (or coil pack on some cars) , it'll get gas but no spark then, or bad spark and won't kick over
but yeah some cars / trucks will have some issues with the pumps if they are old, if the tank get too low, or if you get into a fender bender or bump into a tree, some cars and trucks shut down the pump, electronic sensor BS
some cars even have major issues with rainy weather or if you run the wrong fuel (vapor lock)
Thanks got the same problems kind of thinking I had to drop the fuel tank
Are you in Memphis?😩
I need him here in Memphis too lol
Thanks
Thank u ❤
thank you, lots of help !!!!!
THANKS BRO!!!!
No problem hope it helped you out
Where Is the reset thingy