Lonnie, I believe you more than most youtubers because you live the life. Didn't you know that as soon as you post one video on UA-cam it instantly makes you an expert, lol? Don't let anyone question your integrity, especially us weekend bushcrafters. Yours is one of the most legitimate bushcraft channels going. Thanks for this video. I for one am a believer
You're going to criticize him for the way he cuts paper? I notice you don't post any videos. Is it because you're too busy outdoors actually practicing bushcraft skills? His channel name says bushcraft and survival because that is what he does. Your channel name is reviewer which means what, that you review and judge other channels like a troll? I don't claim to be an expert at anything but I live in a remote town in the bush and use my knife enough to recognize that he knows what he's talking about.
+JohnReviewer112. You obviously did not watch the video close enough. I had always cut the paper each time in the same exact way. It is the follow through that is different. If the knife sliced the paper then I just naturally followed it on through which made it look like I was slicing the paper, which I was. If the paper tore because the knife was too dull then there was no need to follow on through the same way. I am not pulling a "fast one" here. There is no need for that. Try it yourself and you will see what I am talking about. You ignore the fact also that I said I have been doing this for probably over two years and there is no visable metal removal of the blade after two years of this. You said that I ruined the Scandi grind. In two years with no visable metal removal the Scandi grind would be and is, left intact. In other words you just called me a liar twice in this comment. If you had the same amount of experience as I have you would not have said that because you would know that what I said and did in this video was true. You are very quick to judge people in spite of your lack of knowledge or desire to learn the facts. That makes your statements of little worth. Read the comments of the many many people here who use a knife for a living such as chefs. They back up what I am saying because they *KNOW* what I am saying is true since they have "been there and done that". Not only have they been there and done that but they have experienced the same thing I am showing. Key word is "experience".
I went to culinary school, out of all careers out there the people that use knives the most are chefs. Pick up a professional chefs knife and it will cut you by just looking at it. They pride theirselves in this. In school we had steels just like this. The instructors said it like this. Never use the stone unless you have to, The steel does not sharpen it straightens the blade. If your going for razor sharp after any length of time the steel probably isn't going to get you there. But for a working edge (paper cutting) it will do it. And most knives that get a razor edge keep that edge for about 5 minutes of heavy use. The working edge lasts. So in summary I agree with you and am surprised this is the only knife sharpening video ive seen with this knowledge. If you where stranded in the woods with one knife a stone and a steel. If you used the stone all the time after a while you wouldn't have much of a knife left.
I first watched this video about 6 months ago and have been taking your advice ever since. I'm 63 years old and you taught me more about maintaining a sharp edge on a knife in 15 minutes than I've learned in the last 50 something years. I will be eternally grateful. When I think of how many good knives that I have sharpened down to nothing over the years, it is heartbreaking. Keep up the good work and thanks again.
One of the things I love about UA-cam is that it offers a window into all the different subcultures and lifestyles that exist (without all the fictional drivel of "reality" television). Your channel comes from a worldview very different from mine. It's great to get a view into different ways of life without all the politics that usually separate us and keep us from truly seeing one another. It's _possible_ that I'll make use of this information some time, but I feel enriched just by its presentation. Thank you for sharing.
My late father, who was trained as a cook in the Navy, would always bring out the carving set, which included a steel, for holiday meals that included a roast or turkey -- and the first step was giving the big carving knife several strokes on the steel. I don't even see sets like that in the kitchen tool/knife sections of department stores anymore. Great demo and great tips on checking the edge.
Im seriously impressed Mr Far North. I have struggled to sharpen my Matt Graham survival tool for months. Watched your video and decided to give it a go. 2 cycles of your method and 20 strops on a piece of leather and my knife shaves hair like a professional barbers razor. Goes thru news print like it isnt there. Thanks for that.
Until I saw your video, I had always used Japanese wet stones to sharpen, then leather to strop. Today I bought a quality honing steel with the fine stirations you suggested. I'm amazed !! I've honed all my knives today, and tested with newsprint and arm hair.. Thank you so much ! This has completely changed my knife maintenance .. And made it easier too...thank you and very best wishes...J
Great video. I learned from my dad not to sharpen with a stone so much. He showed me how it would eat my knife up. He also taught us not to let our knives get dull to start with. He leather stropped a lot. Thanks again for the video. God bless you and your family
Nice video to see! I have a knife that's over 30 years old that has never seen a sharpening stone. I use a steel on all my knives and in the field I use a simple ceramic sharpener for quick touch ups. I've seen knives that have lost as much as a full inch of blade width over 20 years of stone sharpening and it's such a waste. I learned your technique while working for a butcher at a meat market when I was a kid, and you would get a good knock on the head if he caught you using a stone on one of his knives! Loved this one and keep em coming Lonnie :-)
My late grandfather, a professional master-butcher, used to hone all his knives with a steel EXACTLY the way You showed it - and his knives always were razor-sharp. Big thumbs up!
While I was watching this video I had my doubts because I was was told to sharpen the knife, but reading some of the comments it makes sense now. I am pretty new to this kind of stuff and started about a year ago.
Lonnie & Connie, I'm in my 30's and the last time I saw either of my grandpas was around the age of seven. I love the outdoors and am lucky to live in Co. next to the largest flattop mountain in the world, where there is blm land for miles for fishing and backpacking. I've been a subscriber for many years and enjoy the knowledge and life experience you share. I really wish I had a grandpa like you, thank you for sharing your thoughts and lessons with us. A-
This is a good video. Too many don't know that you don't need to grind metal off your knife every time it's dull. Whenever I have a knife that has a rounded over edge, or has been sharpened at too wide or sharp of an angle, I like to run it through a hardened steel wheel sharpener. This puts a good angle on the blade but you don't want to do it too often because it does remove material. When I hone a knife, I run the blade backwards to unfold the edge first, and then run it forwards to finish the honing. I was told that this prevents your edge from rounding out. I don't know if this applies to carbon steel blades like moras, but I have noticed softer steel does tend to round off or even break if I don't run it backwards first.
Hi Lonnie, I enjoy your videos immensely. I am a knife-maker in Vancouver WA. Just want to thank you for your informed vid on steels here. Many people have the misconception that they sharpen. You hit it on the head! I might use slightly slower, controlled strokes on the steel myself (everyone's a critic right?🙂) , but the bit about lessening the pressure as you go to a very light touch at the end is a golden tidbit that few neglect to include in their descriptions of how to use a steel properly. As you say, sharpening is seldom needed on a modern high-end-steel knife that is used properly. Steeling will return an edge many many times before resharpening is needed. 👍
I am going to share this video with 2 friends that I have told them, they are sharpening their knives so often, and aggressively, that it has reduced the length of the blades. Great advice and video! Thanks.
Lonnie, finally someone that understands what the oldtimers knew when they had to rely on their knives for subsistence - a good honing steel will keep those blades sharp. Well done!
thanks to your video my antique bowie knife is sharp enough to shave and i only had to do minimal actual sharpening. the analogy you used when you said imagine trying to cut a piece off the strop helped me immensely!
awesome video. lots of people don't understand what s steel is nor how to use it. as a meat cutter I use a steel 40 times a day. If I sharpened my knife 2 times a day I would be buying a new knife every few weeks. proper use of a steel is a great piece of info to have. again great video. thumbs up.
I'm not sure what kind of an idiot would put a dislike on this video; but they're definitely idiots. Thank you for your wisdom. I'll think twice next time before removing material from any of my blades.
I spent a small fortune on knife sharpening equipment only to find the thing I ended up using the most is the very same type of fine steel that once belonged to my wife's grandfather. 👍 Nice Video Lonnie
I have actually been doing that with my pocket knives for the past couple months. I thought it was just a lazy way to touch up my edges, but i found it was actually working. However, i did learn a little more technique watching your video. New Subscriber.
Excellent advice. I usually carry a diamond sharpener with a flat steel back & use the back for honing. It works almost as well as a true honing steel & takes up less space. I also use rough side leather quite often. Unless I've really gotten rough on a blade I've easily gone 2 - 3 years between sharpenings even on my cheaper & softer blades. I see no point in grinding away a perfectly good edge when stropping or steeling will bring it back.
One of the reasons I like Moras is that they're cheap enough I don't worry about hitting them with the stones if I use them hard. Moras take an edge quick but they will definitely roll, especially the carbon ones, which a steel will return to working order in under 30 seconds (and without having to break out the sharpening kit). Much better when you're doing something like butchering an animal. Some knives that are really hard/brittle will tend to (micro) chip rather than roll, and for that you do need to sharpen. A steel may exacerbate the chips and rolls will probably just break off anyway. I think really it comes down to knowing your knife and how your particular use impacts it. For example, I'll hit my really hard knives of 3V, M390, etc on a very fine stone briefly and quickly strop it on leather to refine the edge rather than hone on a steel. My carbons get the steel, or if there's a lot of edge damage they'll go through an entire resharpening. But many would be surprised how quickly you can significantly grind down a Mora with frequent sharpening.
Lonnie, you're a great instructor. I've learned so much from your videos, and every time I take the time to maintain the edge on my knife, I think of this particular video. Just thought I'd come back and say thanks.
Thanks for the video fine sir. I watched a few knife sharpening tutorials before I found this presentation and I kept thinking that can't be right. This one made sense to me, the nice thing about truth is it makes sense and becomes self evident.
About 25 years ago I bought a meat cleaver, a butcher knife and a steel from a Chinese grocery store. Stainless steel and brass handles, good quality not expensive. I use the butcher knife almost everyday and it still has the original Edge on it. It has never touched a sharpening stone and I only very lightly pass it back and forth two or three times on the sharpening steel every couple of weeks.
Even today in meat cutting courses they teach honing often as compared to sharpening too often. I had a nice set of knives after my course and someone switched mine for theirs that were worn right down from oversharpening....
I just ran two blades over a steel and all I have to say is, WOW! I did the thumb nail test and news print test and the blades are sharp. Thanks for all your videos. Thumbs Up!
As a Swede, I suggest throwing away your dull Mora knives and buy new ones everytime. Also, once your Volvo runs out of fuel, just park it someplace and buy a new one instead.
Why is it, every time somebody tries to share knowledge, good knowledge, there has to be that first one..... THANK YOU SIR. Valuable information, as usual. Respect to you and yours.
I used sharpening steels for a long time on all kind of knifes. Kitchen knifes, bushcraft knifes, survival knifes, literally everything. I know, that in meat processing the butchers use the steel when they notice that the knife gets dull. Those people know for sure that a sharp knife is a safe knife. And it's their tool, they have to work with it and want it sharp. Like real sharp. The sharpening steel works fine on their butcher knifes, as long as the blade has a micro burr. Throughout cutting meat, tenons and bones the micro burr folds over, and the knife is dull again, they have to use the steel again. But folding over and raising again weakens the steel of the micro burr, like you take a wire and bend it over, until it breaks. So the micro burr breaks off after some time. This is the moment, when they give their knifes to the sharpening station, where the knife gets sharpened, either with a rotating stone or a belt sander. And it starts again. So they lose quite some material on their blades. I have two butcher knifes from a butcher shop, which have lost the half of the blade width, up to a point where grinding a bevel that has an edge that works with meat processing is impossible, because the knifes are too thick. It would be able to keep the knifes on going, they should be thinned out. But this would cost too much, so they gave the knifes to me. I gave them a scandy grind and shortened the blade, and they work for me. A butcher once told me "you can't get a dull knife sharp with a sharpening steel, you just are able to keep it sharp". About a 5 years ago I found another method for freshen up the edge of my knifes. Nothing new, nothing unusual, but I have to bring this into the discussion. I learned, that a leather strop, together with a small amount of compound, not only is lifting your sharpening up on a new level, but is a fast and smooth way to keep knifes razor sharp. OK, it will take off a little bit of steel, but only an amount that is so small, you won't even notice it. Talking like the amount of steel you take off a blade or piece of metal when you give it a mirror finish, but only at the very edge of the knife. Today I only use my stones, when a knife is seriously damaged, like a big chip or, what God may help me to prevent, a broken tip. Small chips I get out of the blade with ceramic rods, in the progression of 600, 800, 1200 and 2000 grit, those rods are not as agressive as stones are. If possible, I only use 600 and 1200 grit rods. All the other mainainance is stroping. As a in my world nice side effect of stroping, you change the secondary bevels and v edges of your knifes to a small convex edges, just the very edge, but it happens. This gives the edge more strength, the edge retention of a convex grind is better. I use self made green compound out of chromium oxyde and Balistol. This chromium oxyde has particles of about 3 micron, what equals 8000 grit. Plus the compound and the leather has some give to it. So it never ends up with the removing of material. One last thing: With stroping it is impossible to get a micro toothy edge, what lot of people like, because they have some bite and are good at rope cutting. But the sharpness of a polished, stroped edge tops this in my opinion.
Love your demo on this. I learned to use a steel to bring the edge back when I was cutting meat back in 69 to 71. Then I got my draft notice and joined the Air Force. BTW, I spent 4 years at Eielson AFB in 85-89. Loved it there. I sure am enjoying your videos. Bring back a lot of great memories.
When i was a kid i took up work on a chicken farm, we used our knives quite a lot. During work one day an old timer i had been working with pulled out his mora and grabbed a near by screw driver and started running it along the blade much like a steel, i remember thinking he didnt know what he was doing, "silly guy dont know how to sharpen his knife" i later was talking to my granfather and told him what i saw. He just looked at me and said he wasnt trying to sharpen his blade he was just straightening the edge out. That moment saved me alot of steel i rarely sharpen my knives now just straighten and strop
I learned awhile ago that when watching U tube videos it is important to be able to distinguish the wheat from the chaff. You Lonnie l would definitely classify as wheat. Thank you so much for all the great information you provide. You and Connie have a wonderful day.
Thank you, Lonnie. I watched Graham Kerr hone his knife upside down 'cause he said it was easier for the unexperienced,sp?, person. It was easier for me, too but I could learn it your way. And I learned a couple other valuable lessons! Nice work.
Using the honing steel, a ceramic rod and stropping a blade is still sharpening. it still fits in the "sharpening" category. there is many ways to sharpen a blade, using a steel to hone it is one of them. Its a good point that you don't need to do a full regrind every time your knife gets a bit dull, you often don't have to grind it at all, but you still have to sharpen it, using a steel is a good way to sharpen a edge without too much work or knife wear, thats why many chefs do it so often.
When honing: does the knife get sharper? if so, aren't you sharpening it? To sharpen something doesn't mean grinding it, it just means "make sharper" when honing a blade you make it sharper. thus honing is sharpening, grinding is sharpening, stropping is sharpening. it doesn't matter how you get it sharper, if its sharper afterwards you've sharpened it. Got it?
It is not metal removal that is making the knife seem "sharper" in this case. The knife was still sharp before using the steel. Unfortunately the blade edge was curled over, thus not presenting the sharp edge towards the material being cut. You can feel the curl that is there simply by gently feeling the blade with a finger nail. You can feel the finger nail catch on the lip that is created by the curl.
***** well no, all honing does is realign the blade. but every time you hone the blade, its going to make the edge weaker, until it eventually breaks, this is how knives become dull. At that point, no amount of honing is going to make the blade sharp again,
I get excellent results from regular use of a leather strop (old belt) glued to a piece of wood and charged with polishing compound. Easily restores a razor edge.
By adding the polishing compound, you actually do remove a tiny amount of material... But so little, so it will make the knife last much longer, than when sharpening, on "the usual grits " on stones, or paper... It also add a super-micro-serration, which adds to the cutting ability, when "sawing" with it... Just, to inform those, who find this idea good... It IS good... But it DO wear on the knife... A tiny bit... But, for most, with no practice in sharpening, or honing, the belt, is by far the safest method... As Lonnie mentioned, one can easily "slam" the edge too hard, onto the steel, so you make the edge more crooked, instead... Also, the polishing compound, will in fact take micro knicks, over time... It is a great compromise, between removing nothing, and removing too much... So, five thumbs up, for this way of stropping... :)
"One swipe too steep, and it become a butter knife"... :) So true... :) If you hold it long enough... But actually, on the leather belt with polish, one second with a slightly wrong angle, until you get it right, will not completely change the edge, like all stones, or sandpapers, would... Still, you are right... The angle, is everything... And light pressure... ;) Hard pressure, are ONLY for the rough shaping, of a new knife, by the knifemaker, or when reshaping an old blade totally... Never, for normal sharpening...
True but too light pressure does almost nothing. I remember watching an old video from Korin.com (?) with Bob Kramer of Bob Kramer Custom Knives where he says about 6 lbs of pressure is ideal. But of course, you must have the right steel for the blade. A rough steel may dull a fine edge of softer steel like swiss steel, but the same steel may not even touch a very hard japanese steel like vg-10, in which case a ceramic "steel" is an ideal tool for the job.
I really appreciate that wisdom. I grew up a boy scout, and was never completely clear on honing and sharpening......I got some kitchen blades to go hone! Thank your Sir!
Lonnie i do not know you personally. However i heard you say something about some may not believe you. I know in my hart and mind you would never lie to us for any reason. In my mind our world has lost a great deal of morality but you my friend have a moral compass that is pointed due north with no deviation.
Most people don't know this. Thanks for sharing. I use a ceramic steel and finish with a leather strop with some polishing compound...works like a champ.
Thanks for the encouragement. I no longer use that particular intro for several reasons. Audience retention is not improved any and perhaps even reduced overall due to using an intro such as this one here. People are very much focused on instant gratification and if you keep them from the object of interest too long then they will leave. Also I was not happy with that intro. It was beautiful scenery even for me who sees those scenes often but I was not happy with the way I had put the intro together. So all things considered, I feel that I was better off without it.
Far North Bushcraft And Survival , sometimes we are our own harshest critics; I really love that intro. But I totally understand needing to keep today’s frenetic eyeballs on the screen long enough to get to the content. Thanks again for the videos, my friend, and here’s hoping you and your wife stay happy and healthy.
I am 14 I have a boot knife and a Honing stone and I used the same stuff you said for that on this and it worked the same I've been trying to find out how to sharpen the blade properly thank you
You're teaching good sense Lonnie. I'm using all this in my everyday life, We just love the flute the scenery makes us feel good for the day, hope Connie is keeping well, and she has no long term pain in her shoulder, Well you take care coz we care...
+Mcleod Duncan Thank you and thank you for "caring". Connie does not quite have full range of motion in her shoulder yet and may never but it is close to full (maybe 85 - 90%). She experiences no pain. we went for a snow machine trip to and from the cabin a month ago (how she originally broke her shoulder) and she and her shoulder did fine. Thanks.
Excellent video. I was a knife dealer and have sharpened many knives. Plus, I had a plethora of equipment. In my office, I keep a simple hand holdable Farberware manual sharpener that cost $10 or $15! It satisfies my sharpening needs for most of my personal knives. Some guy watches a war movie where a soldier is continuously sharpening his bayonet and thinks that a bayonet should be sharp. Totally wrong! The knives are issued "dull" for a good reason. And, I am not going to relate why. If you are a sushi chef, and most people are not and never will be, then a very sharp knife is needed. If you are a deer hunter, you don't need a "sharp" knife. You choose the knife for the application. A partially serrated $5 "steak knife" from Walmart will cut a steak better than a smooth edge Gerber knife. There is a reason - and you do the research. If you cut a tomato, you need a double serrated blade knife. If you cut a loaf of bread, you need a double serrated blade knife. The Mora like you use comes exceedingly sharp from the factory. Putting an initial edge on a knife made from a sawmill blade requires a load of effort. You already have an excellent edge on a Mora and only occasionally need a touch up. More knives are lost to poor maintenance (lack of cleaning, lack of lubrication, lack of protection from moisture) than are ever lost from excessive usage (and I don't mean as a weight/lever/can opener-I mean as a knife is designed to be used). If you know what you are doing, you can restore an old, rusty, discolored knife when you value your time at zero. When I see the "paper tests" on youtube (and without an explanation why they shouldn't apply as a test in most situations) I cringe.
I past over this video a few times thinking it may not be accurate. But I was wrong, Lonnie, you are correct! I have been using knives of all types, including my shop made 01, 1056, 4041, etc. for 40+ years. I tried a few on my honing steel and to my amazement, the edge is reclaimed! I hate being wrong! Thank you. I think I subbed your channel over 2 years ago, and it was well worth the educational experience.
If you don't push so hard on the steel its even easier. The edge is really fine, the finer the edge the sharper the blade. If you bash the steel like you are it pushes a bit over, then repeating on the other side. Eventually it looks like a wave down the blade. Just let the weight of the knife on the steel run the entire length of it. Also, slow down. I know it sounds stupid, i have people look at me in the boning room like i'm nuts. But i can get their knives scarly sharp. While they try and start fires by bashing it. You should just be able to hear the blade run over the steel, any louder your folding it one side then the other. (14 years boning rooms, 25 years boning fish.) Cool channel bud.
There is a reason chefs and cooks use a steel or ceramic rod instead of rough stones. Better edge, and preserves the longevity of the blade. I only use stones for very heavy use tools that get dinged and chipped, like shovels, hoes, and axes. Really enjoy your channel for actual, practical skills rather than trying to get us to buy gear, like some.
Thanks for chiming in. I appreciate your comment. Stone user here but giving steel rods a trial as of the new week. Kitchen wear mostly, but used daily by multiple people. Agree with your sentiment! Great info on this channel.
Yup, I was a butcher many moons ago and was taught a slightly different method for using a steel but your method was in the same ballpark. I still use a steel to sharpen my flat grind knives but haven't got the knack of the Scandinavian grinds. I'll have to look closer at your method and combine the two. Thanks for the vid!
Some peopl ehold the steel vertical with the tip against a table etc. Some folks hold similar to the way I do and stroke the blade away from themselves like I do. Others hold the steel like me but stroke toward themselves. Still others will drag the blade edge backwards instead of stroking toward the blade edge. All these ways work fine as long as one becomes proficient in that method.
Thanks for the explanation. You just opened a whole new world to me :) I had a steel like this for years but apparently simply didn't know how to use it properly :) Thanks a million!
There are two types of steels, sharpening and aligning, i.e., serrated and smooth. A steel with serrations actually does remove metal and sharpens the edge. A smooth steel is used for aligning the edge. All the steels I own are sharpening steels although I've worn some out to the point they function well as an aligning steel. One of my favorite aligning steels is actually a long shafted screwdriver. For kitchen knives, when the aligning steel is no longer effective, a sharpening steel can be used. The main goal of using a sharpening steel on kitchen/butchering knives is to expose more carbides. During normal use, the carbides that poke out of the steel matrix give an edge a "serrated" effect. But when the carbides wear down, you need to hit it with a sharpening steel to expose more carbides. Over a long period of time, where the bevel has significantly worn back, you will want to use a stone to restore the original bevel profile.
Thank you for that. I have never used a grooveless steel, but I've seen them. My experience is that striated steels remove steel, and quite a bit when they are new.
Yes, I've seen it repeated over and over that steels don't sharpen but that's one of those myths that is clearly wrong but becomes accepted dogma because it is repeated over and over. If the steel does not sharpen, then why does it have serrations? And if you take a knife blade and coat the edge with magic marker, why is the marker removed? I wish I could remember the source but there was a great article some years back in a cookbook or cooking magazine that covered both smooth and serrated steels. One of the best articles I've ever read on steels. To really see a difference, take a brand new steel and compare to an old worn out steel and you will see metal removal and not just polishing and aligning of the edge.
I think this link does a fair job of making the distinction. He points out that the old sharpening steels do not do much sharpening on the newer cooking knives with a high Rockwell hardness, which is true. I still use them but I also keep a diamond "steel" handy for my harder knives. I also like coarse ceramic "steels." sharpeningmadeeasy.com/knives2.htm
I know that my fine steel works well enough on a newer Wusthof chef's knife with no supplemental sharpening. I'm not sure if that would count as new harder knife in his book. If anything, I have trouble with over-sharpening as I stated in my main comment to this video and I'm hoping that lightening up a little toward the end and spending more time will wear off the wire edge as I think our host here is probably doing. I am curious as to what the effect of steels of various kinds and levels of wear is regarding steel removal v.s. edge alignment. Also, I don't think I've ever seen compression or "burnishing" discussed in that regard. It seems likely that there is probably a certain amount of compression of the softer steel of the knife, resulting in a stretching or thinning of the edge when worked repeatedly against a much harder material. All of this could be measured and observed with the right equipment and adequate curiosity. Maybe someone has already done it. I don't know. I've written and thought about and practiced sharpening a lot, but I haven't spent much time studying what other people have to say about it, or research etc. When my youtube blows up I'll buy a microscope :) Oh, and finally, I find that old knives are much more likely to be ground all the way down to the edge in a perfect back to edge grind and be none too thin at that. I think that is because the steel, or just working a knife against the back of another knife, used to be the norm over frequent sharpening, certainly for kitchen knives. I find those very thin knives much superior for kitchen use and steeling over thicker fat beveled/bladed knives.
It's a great joy when I've missed one of your videos, and I find it later. It is like a Christmas present I forgot to open! Thanks Lonnie, and Connie (sp, I'm advancing in years!).
It took me literally 2 years to convince my wife that the rod doesn't sharpen the knife; she used to make me use it over a trash can to "catch the metal shavings" haha
Verrry interesting Lonnie! I've hunted all my life in Northern Ontario & Quebec and used/sharpened many knives. I've heard guys talk about this method but I was never convinced. This video has convinced me to pick one of these up and give it a try. Wish me luck!
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but if the blade edge is curled over, then it seems you would need to run the knife in the opposite direction on the honing steel to straighten the edge?
Not a stupid question at all. You are imagining a blade edge that is VERY curled over. If a blade edge gets *that* curled over then the blade edge is too thin and needs to be resharpened on abrasives of some sort. The curl that I am talking about here in the video does not need to be curled over very far at all before it is noticed in diminished blade performance. The trick is to re-straighten the blade edge at this time and not allow the curl to develop further to where it may damage the blade edge. If a person uses the steel when ever "dullness" is first noticed, then the blade edge is only curled slightly and can easily be straightened back up by pushing the blade forward towards it's edge. If the blade edge is curled over so far as to need the blade to be pulled away from the edge then the blade really should be resharpened using abrasives I believe.
hi lonny thanks for the tip. I'm guilty of sharpening my knife every time it's gets the slightest bit dull but I know better now. thanks for the tip and by the way I love your videos you put out a lot of helpful information
He looks 58, if you take into consideration his beard colour compared to his hair colour, and the wear on his hands and fingers. Also the raspyness of his voice.
Greetings,Thanks for the vid. I make my living sharpening other folk's knives. I've told folk for years, "There are only two ways to sharpen a knife; they are to Move Metal or to Remove Metal." Yet it is amazingly difficult to get them to use a steel. Oh well, it keeps me in business. "Stand that edge back up on its feet." One thing to be aware of for your viewers.... test the heel of the knife's blade at the base of the steel being used. I have seen some where the knife is harder that the steel. if they try to use this combination the effect will be closer to the knife sharpening the steel rather than the result they are looking for.... Keep sharing your vids.Thanks and pax.
No. As you can see in the video, stroking away from the edge of the blade is not necessary. You are probably picturing a severe curl. I do not let my knives get that bad. If they get so badly curled that stroking away from the edge is required to keep from damaging the blade edge then it is my belief that you are probably better off re-sharpening your blade with an abrasive so as to re-establish a decent edge. If the edge of your blade is so curled over as to require stroking away from the edge then your edge is too thin and needs to be reprofiled and re-established. A properly sharpened edge will not allow the edge to curl over that far.
Lonnie, I discovered your videos about a month ago and I've watched about 80 of them so far. I really appreciate you and Connie taking the time to share your wisdom, tips and adventures. I have found them most enjoyable and very, very helpful. I also discovered from watching a few of your videos that you are a Christian brother, so it's great to know that although we may not meet in this earthly life, that we shall meet in heaven. I've subscribed to your channel and am enjoying catching up on all your previous videos as well as anticipating new ones which hopefully you will continue to post. Thanks again and I pray that God will continue to bless you richly and provide all your needs according to His riches in glory. - Steve
I used to be a butcher & we used steels constantly, & they do wear the knife down, eventually the knife becomes a long pointed triangle blade & has to be discarded. A steel leaves an edge like very fine saw teeth. For what this guy is doing he needs a leather strop, plus the Mora knife has a very thin blade anyway, so its very easy to sharpen.
PendleHill Billies IL start with a steel then move to a old leather belt flipped raw side with a bit a Polish compound rubbed on it, gets it razor sharp
i've been a chef for almost 20 years and have had this argument many times. "honing steels don't sharpen!" well, i disagree. honing or grinding, both improve the cutting efficiency, making the blade sharper. hence, both are sharpening. like you said, semantics.
@@scatterbug I've long referred to honing/stropping as 'De-blunting' for a lot of people who don't want to know the finer points of bladecare, easier for them to think I mean sharpening and not have to explain them to death lol.
I would have taken your word for it even without you proving it, dude, 'cause it's so obvious you know what you're talking about, but what a great demonstration! Many sincere thanks!
The "song" has no name. It is just a tune I came up with on the spot as i was recording it. It is played on my home made PVC native American style flute. I show how to make one in the video link below if interested. Of course I also added reverb or "echo" as well as bird and running water sounds to the flute music to make it a richer fuller audio experience. How To Make A Homemade PVC Flute ua-cam.com/video/misjPOhd-9o/v-deo.html
In reality the knife is still sharp. It never did get dull and so does not require sharpening. Instead all it requires is to realign the edge. *THAT* is not sharpening. Sharpen | Definition of Sharpen by Merriam-Webster www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/sharpensharpening. : to make or become sharp or sharper
Far North Bushcraft And Survival I would still argue that when a blade is bent or curved along the edge, it is no longer the edge that is sharp but a different part of the blade. Either way it cannot cut, and the reason is because the very edge is not sharp; the sharp part has moved or deformed to a useless position. Still, I suppose I see your point.
i did understand the point of your video, in fact, i think its a simple concept to grasp, sadly people tend to have the right no matter what the facts are
amazing video. Im having problems keeping my knives sharp and I think you just solved all my problems! really think your channel is one of the best on youtube!
I used to be a slaughterman, and the steel kept the edge tug free for up to a hundred sheep, then it was time for the stone. if I had known what you have shown, the steel, rather than the stone would have been much easier. .. thank you
Out of the hundreds of butcher, chefs, slaughtermen, etc i have worked with i've met 2 that showed me how to do it correctly. It's not that everyone else were wrong its just another way of doing it. People can't get their heads around it. I've shown hundreds of people how to steel a knife EXACTLY like i do, soon as i move off bash, bash, bash.... then its "can you sharpen my knife for me? its blunt" Maybe i should get off my butt and put up a vid, Hell i''ll do it, send it to this bloke and he can put it up. Also you want a sharp knife? get a F-Dick multicut steel, mine's 16 years old and they get better with age. Like me.
Lonnie, I believe you more than most youtubers because you live the life. Didn't you know that as soon as you post one video on UA-cam it instantly makes you an expert, lol? Don't let anyone question your integrity, especially us weekend bushcrafters. Yours is one of the most legitimate bushcraft channels going. Thanks for this video. I for one am a believer
Thank you for those kind words of encouragement.
You're going to criticize him for the way he cuts paper? I notice you don't post any videos. Is it because you're too busy outdoors actually practicing bushcraft skills? His channel name says bushcraft and survival because that is what he does. Your channel name is reviewer which means what, that you review and judge other channels like a troll? I don't claim to be an expert at anything but I live in a remote town in the bush and use my knife enough to recognize that he knows what he's talking about.
+JohnReviewer112. You obviously did not watch the video close enough. I had always cut the paper each time in the same exact way. It is the follow through that is different. If the knife sliced the paper then I just naturally followed it on through which made it look like I was slicing the paper, which I was. If the paper tore because the knife was too dull then there was no need to follow on through the same way. I am not pulling a "fast one" here. There is no need for that. Try it yourself and you will see what I am talking about. You ignore the fact also that I said I have been doing this for probably over two years and there is no visable metal removal of the blade after two years of this. You said that I ruined the Scandi grind. In two years with no visable metal removal the Scandi grind would be and is, left intact. In other words you just called me a liar twice in this comment. If you had the same amount of experience as I have you would not have said that because you would know that what I said and did in this video was true. You are very quick to judge people in spite of your lack of knowledge or desire to learn the facts. That makes your statements of little worth. Read the comments of the many many people here who use a knife for a living such as chefs. They back up what I am saying because they *KNOW* what I am saying is true since they have "been there and done that". Not only have they been there and done that but they have experienced the same thing I am showing. Key word is "experience".
That's the most I've ever seen you write, Lonnie. Haha.
I went to culinary school, out of all careers out there the people that use knives the most are chefs. Pick up a professional chefs knife and it will cut you by just looking at it. They pride theirselves in this. In school we had steels just like this. The instructors said it like this. Never use the stone unless you have to, The steel does not sharpen it straightens the blade. If your going for razor sharp after any length of time the steel probably isn't going to get you there. But for a working edge (paper cutting) it will do it. And most knives that get a razor edge keep that edge for about 5 minutes of heavy use. The working edge lasts. So in summary I agree with you and am surprised this is the only knife sharpening video ive seen with this knowledge. If you where stranded in the woods with one knife a stone and a steel. If you used the stone all the time after a while you wouldn't have much of a knife left.
I first watched this video about 6 months ago and have been taking your advice ever since. I'm 63 years old and you taught me more about maintaining a sharp edge on a knife in 15 minutes than I've learned in the last 50 something years. I will be eternally grateful. When I think of how many good knives that I have sharpened down to nothing over the years, it is heartbreaking. Keep up the good work and thanks again.
One of the things I love about UA-cam is that it offers a window into all the different subcultures and lifestyles that exist (without all the fictional drivel of "reality" television). Your channel comes from a worldview very different from mine. It's great to get a view into different ways of life without all the politics that usually separate us and keep us from truly seeing one another. It's _possible_ that I'll make use of this information some time, but I feel enriched just by its presentation. Thank you for sharing.
That was the most genuinely nice outro I've ever seen on a video.
My late father, who was trained as a cook in the Navy, would always bring out the carving set, which included a steel, for holiday meals that included a roast or turkey -- and the first step was giving the big carving knife several strokes on the steel. I don't even see sets like that in the kitchen tool/knife sections of department stores anymore. Great demo and great tips on checking the edge.
Im seriously impressed Mr Far North. I have struggled to sharpen my Matt Graham survival tool for months. Watched your video and decided to give it a go. 2 cycles of your method and 20 strops on a piece of leather and my knife shaves hair like a professional barbers razor. Goes thru news print like it isnt there. Thanks for that.
Until I saw your video, I had always used Japanese wet stones to sharpen, then leather to strop. Today I bought a quality honing steel with the fine stirations you suggested. I'm amazed !! I've honed all my knives today, and tested with newsprint and arm hair.. Thank you so much !
This has completely changed my knife maintenance .. And made it easier too...thank you and very best wishes...J
+jools.in.a.motorhome.uk Glad I was able to help. Thank you and you are welcome.
Great video. I learned from my dad not to sharpen with a stone so much. He showed me how it would eat my knife up. He also taught us not to let our knives get dull to start with. He leather stropped a lot. Thanks again for the video. God bless you and your family
Nice video to see! I have a knife that's over 30 years old that has never seen a sharpening stone. I use a steel on all my knives and in the field I use a simple ceramic sharpener for quick touch ups. I've seen knives that have lost as much as a full inch of blade width over 20 years of stone sharpening and it's such a waste. I learned your technique while working for a butcher at a meat market when I was a kid, and you would get a good knock on the head if he caught you using a stone on one of his knives! Loved this one and keep em coming Lonnie :-)
My late grandfather, a professional master-butcher, used to hone all his knives with a steel EXACTLY the way You showed it - and his knives always were razor-sharp. Big thumbs up!
I am so glad you posted this! I followed your method on my mora knives, and they are fantastic now! Thank you!!!
While I was watching this video I had my doubts because I was was told to sharpen the knife, but reading some of the comments it makes sense now. I am pretty new to this kind of stuff and started about a year ago.
Lonnie & Connie, I'm in my 30's and the last time I saw either of my grandpas was around the age of seven. I love the outdoors and am lucky to live in Co. next to the largest flattop mountain in the world, where there is blm land for miles for fishing and backpacking. I've been a subscriber for many years and enjoy the knowledge and life experience you share. I really wish I had a grandpa like you, thank you for sharing your thoughts and lessons with us.
A-
This is a good video. Too many don't know that you don't need to grind metal off your knife every time it's dull.
Whenever I have a knife that has a rounded over edge, or has been sharpened at too wide or sharp of an angle, I like to run it through a hardened steel wheel sharpener. This puts a good angle on the blade but you don't want to do it too often because it does remove material.
When I hone a knife, I run the blade backwards to unfold the edge first, and then run it forwards to finish the honing. I was told that this prevents your edge from rounding out.
I don't know if this applies to carbon steel blades like moras, but I have noticed softer steel does tend to round off or even break if I don't run it backwards first.
Hi Lonnie, I enjoy your videos immensely. I am a knife-maker in Vancouver WA. Just want to thank you for your informed vid on steels here. Many people have the misconception that they sharpen. You hit it on the head! I might use slightly slower, controlled strokes on the steel myself (everyone's a critic right?🙂) , but the bit about lessening the pressure as you go to a very light touch at the end is a golden tidbit that few neglect to include in their descriptions of how to use a steel properly. As you say, sharpening is seldom needed on a modern high-end-steel knife that is used properly. Steeling will return an edge many many times before resharpening is needed. 👍
Been struggling to find the right way to sharpen my knives for a long time. This works excellently. Thanks for your knowledge!
thank god that there is a channel that has a friendly comments section and produces good content. keep it up!
I am going to share this video with 2 friends that I have told them, they are sharpening their knives so often, and aggressively, that it has reduced the length of the blades. Great advice and video! Thanks.
Thanks for another common sense approach that keeps things simple. I've learned a lot from your videos, keep up the fine work.
Lonnie, finally someone that understands what the oldtimers knew when they had to rely on their knives for subsistence - a good honing steel will keep those blades sharp. Well done!
Very good point about wasting steel and making the most out of each sharpen!
thanks to your video my antique bowie knife is sharp enough to shave and i only had to do minimal actual sharpening. the analogy you used when you said imagine trying to cut a piece off the strop helped me immensely!
Sharpen once and hone for life. That's the way it should be. Thanks for the info. great video.
not exactly. you will need to sharpen it if you nick the edge.
yeah, but not chipping or marring the edge is virtually impossible if you have a knife long enough.
awesome video. lots of people don't understand what s steel is nor how to use it. as a meat cutter I use a steel 40 times a day. If I sharpened my knife 2 times a day I would be buying a new knife every few weeks. proper use of a steel is a great piece of info to have. again great video. thumbs up.
I'm not sure what kind of an idiot would put a dislike on this video; but they're definitely idiots. Thank you for your wisdom. I'll think twice next time before removing material from any of my blades.
Excellent advice Lonnie. I became a steel convert a few years ago and now i am also into stroping on leather.That works great as well.
I spent a small fortune on knife sharpening equipment only to find the thing I ended up using the most is the very same type of fine steel that once belonged to my wife's grandfather. 👍
Nice Video Lonnie
Thank you. I've sharpened plenty of knives but this is something I never knew about. I'm glad I watched.
Leave it to Lonnie to have the best knife sharpening video on the internet.
I have actually been doing that with my pocket knives for the past couple months. I thought it was just a lazy way to touch up my edges, but i found it was actually working. However, i did learn a little more technique watching your video. New Subscriber.
Excellent advice. I usually carry a diamond sharpener with a flat steel back & use the back for honing. It works almost as well as a true honing steel & takes up less space. I also use rough side leather quite often. Unless I've really gotten rough on a blade I've easily gone 2 - 3 years between sharpenings even on my cheaper & softer blades. I see no point in grinding away a perfectly good edge when stropping or steeling will bring it back.
true , many people over Sharon a knife, no need to.
I love this. In a pinch I've used the bottom of a ceramic coffee cup to bring a blade back to life and it works wonders 😊
One of the reasons I like Moras is that they're cheap enough I don't worry about hitting them with the stones if I use them hard. Moras take an edge quick but they will definitely roll, especially the carbon ones, which a steel will return to working order in under 30 seconds (and without having to break out the sharpening kit). Much better when you're doing something like butchering an animal. Some knives that are really hard/brittle will tend to (micro) chip rather than roll, and for that you do need to sharpen. A steel may exacerbate the chips and rolls will probably just break off anyway. I think really it comes down to knowing your knife and how your particular use impacts it. For example, I'll hit my really hard knives of 3V, M390, etc on a very fine stone briefly and quickly strop it on leather to refine the edge rather than hone on a steel. My carbons get the steel, or if there's a lot of edge damage they'll go through an entire resharpening. But many would be surprised how quickly you can significantly grind down a Mora with frequent sharpening.
Lonnie, you're a great instructor. I've learned so much from your videos, and every time I take the time to maintain the edge on my knife, I think of this particular video. Just thought I'd come back and say thanks.
30 seconds in, and this looks like Bob ross was left in the wilderness for five years
Thanks for the video fine sir. I watched a few knife sharpening tutorials before I found this presentation and I kept thinking that can't be right. This one made sense to me, the nice thing about truth is it makes sense and becomes self evident.
About 25 years ago I bought a meat cleaver, a butcher knife and a steel from a Chinese grocery store. Stainless steel and brass handles, good quality not expensive. I use the butcher knife almost everyday and it still has the original Edge on it. It has never touched a sharpening stone and I only very lightly pass it back and forth two or three times on the sharpening steel every couple of weeks.
I hope we're blessed with many more years of this channel to come.
My late grandma was a trained butcher and she always used a steel on her knifes, and they were very sharp.
Even today in meat cutting courses they teach honing often as compared to sharpening too often. I had a nice set of knives after my course and someone switched mine for theirs that were worn right down from oversharpening....
Mah FL my cousin has worked as a butcher since high school and we are now 50+ and he also uses steels and his knives are very sharp.
I just ran two blades over a steel and all I have to say is, WOW! I did the thumb nail test and news print test and the blades are sharp. Thanks for all your videos. Thumbs Up!
That's what I like about Lonnie's video's, they make me rush to give things a try, lol. Cheers
As a Swede, I suggest throwing away your dull Mora knives and buy new ones everytime.
Also, once your Volvo runs out of fuel, just park it someplace and buy a new one instead.
I was thinking almost exactly the same thing. Excellent.
Why is it, every time somebody tries to share knowledge, good knowledge, there has to be that first one.....
THANK YOU SIR.
Valuable information, as usual. Respect to you and yours.
I used sharpening steels for a long time on all kind of knifes. Kitchen knifes, bushcraft knifes, survival knifes, literally everything.
I know, that in meat processing the butchers use the steel when they notice that the knife gets dull. Those people know for sure that a sharp knife is a safe knife. And it's their tool, they have to work with it and want it sharp. Like real sharp.
The sharpening steel works fine on their butcher knifes, as long as the blade has a micro burr. Throughout cutting meat, tenons and bones the micro burr folds over, and the knife is dull again, they have to use the steel again.
But folding over and raising again weakens the steel of the micro burr, like you take a wire and bend it over, until it breaks. So the micro burr breaks off after some time.
This is the moment, when they give their knifes to the sharpening station, where the knife gets sharpened, either with a rotating stone or a belt sander.
And it starts again. So they lose quite some material on their blades. I have two butcher knifes from a butcher shop, which have lost the half of the blade width, up to a point where grinding a bevel that has an edge that works with meat processing is impossible, because the knifes are too thick. It would be able to keep the knifes on going, they should be thinned out. But this would cost too much, so they gave the knifes to me. I gave them a scandy grind and shortened the blade, and they work for me.
A butcher once told me "you can't get a dull knife sharp with a sharpening steel, you just are able to keep it sharp".
About a 5 years ago I found another method for freshen up the edge of my knifes. Nothing new, nothing unusual, but I have to bring this into the discussion.
I learned, that a leather strop, together with a small amount of compound, not only is lifting your sharpening up on a new level, but is a fast and smooth way to keep knifes razor sharp.
OK, it will take off a little bit of steel, but only an amount that is so small, you won't even notice it. Talking like the amount of steel you take off a blade or piece of metal when you give it a mirror finish, but only at the very edge of the knife.
Today I only use my stones, when a knife is seriously damaged, like a big chip or, what God may help me to prevent, a broken tip. Small chips I get out of the blade with ceramic rods, in the progression of 600, 800, 1200 and 2000 grit, those rods are not as agressive as stones are. If possible, I only use 600 and 1200 grit rods.
All the other mainainance is stroping.
As a in my world nice side effect of stroping, you change the secondary bevels and v edges of your knifes to a small convex edges, just the very edge, but it happens.
This gives the edge more strength, the edge retention of a convex grind is better.
I use self made green compound out of chromium oxyde and Balistol. This chromium oxyde has particles of about 3 micron, what equals 8000 grit.
Plus the compound and the leather has some give to it. So it never ends up with the removing of material.
One last thing: With stroping it is impossible to get a micro toothy edge, what lot of people like, because they have some bite and are good at rope cutting.
But the sharpness of a polished, stroped edge tops this in my opinion.
Love your demo on this. I learned to use a steel to bring the edge back when I was cutting meat back in 69 to 71. Then I got my draft notice and joined the Air Force. BTW, I spent 4 years at Eielson AFB in 85-89. Loved it there. I sure am enjoying your videos. Bring back a lot of great memories.
When i was a kid i took up work on a chicken farm, we used our knives quite a lot. During work one day an old timer i had been working with pulled out his mora and grabbed a near by screw driver and started running it along the blade much like a steel, i remember thinking he didnt know what he was doing, "silly guy dont know how to sharpen his knife" i later was talking to my granfather and told him what i saw. He just looked at me and said he wasnt trying to sharpen his blade he was just straightening the edge out. That moment saved me alot of steel i rarely sharpen my knives now just straighten and strop
I learned awhile ago that when watching U tube videos it is important to be able to distinguish the wheat from the chaff. You Lonnie l would definitely classify as wheat. Thank you so much for all the great information you provide. You and Connie have a wonderful day.
your beard is legendary
Thank you, Lonnie. I watched Graham Kerr hone his knife upside down 'cause he said it was easier for the unexperienced,sp?, person. It was easier for me, too but I could learn it your way. And I learned a couple other valuable lessons! Nice work.
Using the honing steel, a ceramic rod and stropping a blade is still sharpening. it still fits in the "sharpening" category. there is many ways to sharpen a blade, using a steel to hone it is one of them.
Its a good point that you don't need to do a full regrind every time your knife gets a bit dull, you often don't have to grind it at all, but you still have to sharpen it, using a steel is a good way to sharpen a edge without too much work or knife wear, thats why many chefs do it so often.
honing isnt sharpening. Youre not sharpening unless youre removing metal.
Sharpening is remove metal to make a thin edge, it don't removing metal, it just straight the bended edge.
When honing: does the knife get sharper? if so, aren't you sharpening it?
To sharpen something doesn't mean grinding it, it just means "make sharper" when honing a blade you make it sharper. thus honing is sharpening, grinding is sharpening, stropping is sharpening. it doesn't matter how you get it sharper, if its sharper afterwards you've sharpened it.
Got it?
It is not metal removal that is making the knife seem "sharper" in this case. The knife was still sharp before using the steel. Unfortunately the blade edge was curled over, thus not presenting the sharp edge towards the material being cut. You can feel the curl that is there simply by gently feeling the blade with a finger nail. You can feel the finger nail catch on the lip that is created by the curl.
***** well no, all honing does is realign the blade. but every time you hone the blade, its going to make the edge weaker, until it eventually breaks, this is how knives become dull. At that point, no amount of honing is going to make the blade sharp again,
Thanks for your wisdom, Lonnie! Practical advice is ALWAYS appreciated, especially when it is so well explained.
I get excellent results from regular use of a leather strop (old belt) glued to a piece of wood and charged with polishing compound. Easily restores a razor edge.
By adding the polishing compound, you actually do remove a tiny amount of material... But so little, so it will make the knife last much longer, than when sharpening, on "the usual grits " on stones, or paper...
It also add a super-micro-serration, which adds to the cutting ability, when "sawing" with it...
Just, to inform those, who find this idea good... It IS good...
But it DO wear on the knife... A tiny bit...
But, for most, with no practice in sharpening, or honing, the belt, is by far the safest method... As Lonnie mentioned, one can easily "slam" the edge too hard, onto the steel, so you make the edge more crooked, instead...
Also, the polishing compound, will in fact take micro knicks, over time...
It is a great compromise, between removing nothing, and removing too much...
So, five thumbs up, for this way of stropping... :)
it is safe, BUT, you must still mind your angle. One swipe too steep and it becomes a butter knife. The trick is very light pressure.
"One swipe too steep, and it become a butter knife"... :)
So true... :)
If you hold it long enough...
But actually, on the leather belt with polish, one second with a slightly wrong angle, until you get it right, will not completely change the edge, like all stones, or sandpapers, would...
Still, you are right... The angle, is everything... And light pressure... ;)
Hard pressure, are ONLY for the rough shaping, of a new knife, by the knifemaker, or when reshaping an old blade totally...
Never, for normal sharpening...
True but too light pressure does almost nothing. I remember watching an old video from Korin.com (?) with Bob Kramer of Bob Kramer Custom Knives where he says about 6 lbs of pressure is ideal. But of course, you must have the right steel for the blade. A rough steel may dull a fine edge of softer steel like swiss steel, but the same steel may not even touch a very hard japanese steel like vg-10, in which case a ceramic "steel" is an ideal tool for the job.
Disclaimer: I'm a chef so I relate everything to chef's knives, for bushcraft and edc knives this may not apply but still hardness is hardness. :)
I really appreciate that wisdom. I grew up a boy scout, and was never completely clear on honing and sharpening......I got some kitchen blades to go hone! Thank your Sir!
Thanks...I'm going to try this out because I just don't seem to have the hand for a stone I seem to do more harm than good...thanks for the help
you will need to learn how to stone sharpen though or every time you nick the blade you will have to buy a new one to get it out.
Thanks.. I'm trying.. 👍👍
good luck pipes
Thanks my friend 👍👍take care
happyfacekilla excellent.. Thank you very much for the information I definitely appreciate it 👍
Thanks Lonnie.l started using an antique steel I inherited with great results.Once again you are my best teacher and mentor.Thanks my friend.
Lonnie i do not know you personally.
However i heard you say something about some may not believe you.
I know in my hart and mind you would never lie to us for any reason. In my mind our world has lost a great deal of morality but you my friend have a moral compass that is pointed due north with no deviation.
I am humbled and honored by your personal assessment. Thank you.
@@Far-North-Bushcraft-Survival you are very welcome!
I meant every word.
Most people don't know this. Thanks for sharing. I use a ceramic steel and finish with a leather strop with some polishing compound...works like a champ.
Lon, I love love LOVE this intro! Why don’t you use it anymore?
Great video, and thank you for years of great content!
Thanks for the encouragement. I no longer use that particular intro for several reasons. Audience retention is not improved any and perhaps even reduced overall due to using an intro such as this one here. People are very much focused on instant gratification and if you keep them from the object of interest too long then they will leave. Also I was not happy with that intro. It was beautiful scenery even for me who sees those scenes often but I was not happy with the way I had put the intro together. So all things considered, I feel that I was better off without it.
Far North Bushcraft And Survival , sometimes we are our own harshest critics; I really love that intro. But I totally understand needing to keep today’s frenetic eyeballs on the screen long enough to get to the content.
Thanks again for the videos, my friend, and here’s hoping you and your wife stay happy and healthy.
I am 14 I have a boot knife and a Honing stone and I used the same stuff you said for that on this and it worked the same I've been trying to find out how to sharpen the blade properly thank you
Your beard makes you 93% more wise. That makes you 193% wise. Impressive.
You're teaching good sense Lonnie. I'm using all this in my everyday life, We just love the flute the scenery makes us feel good for the day, hope Connie is keeping well, and she has no long term pain in her shoulder, Well you take care coz we care...
+Mcleod Duncan Thank you and thank you for "caring". Connie does not quite have full range of motion in her shoulder yet and may never but it is close to full (maybe 85 - 90%). She experiences no pain. we went for a snow machine trip to and from the cabin a month ago (how she originally broke her shoulder) and she and her shoulder did fine. Thanks.
Excellent video. I was a knife dealer and have sharpened many knives. Plus, I had a plethora of equipment. In my office, I keep a simple hand holdable Farberware manual sharpener that cost $10 or $15! It satisfies my sharpening needs for most of my personal knives.
Some guy watches a war movie where a soldier is continuously sharpening his bayonet and thinks that a bayonet should be sharp. Totally wrong! The knives are issued "dull" for a good reason. And, I am not going to relate why. If you are a sushi chef, and most people are not and never will be, then a very sharp knife is needed. If you are a deer hunter, you don't need a "sharp" knife.
You choose the knife for the application. A partially serrated $5 "steak knife" from Walmart will cut a steak better than a smooth edge Gerber knife. There is a reason - and you do the research. If you cut a tomato, you need a double serrated blade knife. If you cut a loaf of bread, you need a double serrated blade knife.
The Mora like you use comes exceedingly sharp from the factory. Putting an initial edge on a knife made from a sawmill blade requires a load of effort. You already have an excellent edge on a Mora and only occasionally need a touch up.
More knives are lost to poor maintenance (lack of cleaning, lack of lubrication, lack of protection from moisture) than are ever lost from excessive usage (and I don't mean as a weight/lever/can opener-I mean as a knife is designed to be used). If you know what you are doing, you can restore an old, rusty, discolored knife when you value your time at zero.
When I see the "paper tests" on youtube (and without an explanation why they shouldn't apply as a test in most situations) I cringe.
Yet again a common sense approach to a simple problem, thanks Lonnie
I used 1.5 times normal speed this time. Seemed to work ok.
Hahan awesome!
I past over this video a few times thinking it may not be accurate. But I was wrong, Lonnie, you are correct! I have been using knives of all types, including my shop made 01, 1056, 4041, etc. for 40+ years. I tried a few on my honing steel and to my amazement, the edge is reclaimed! I hate being wrong! Thank you. I think I subbed your channel over 2 years ago, and it was well worth the educational experience.
I want to be an apprentice to this man.
If you don't push so hard on the steel its even easier. The edge is really fine, the finer the edge the sharper the blade. If you bash the steel like you are it pushes a bit over, then repeating on the other side. Eventually it looks like a wave down the blade. Just let the weight of the knife on the steel run the entire length of it. Also, slow down. I know it sounds stupid, i have people look at me in the boning room like i'm nuts. But i can get their knives scarly sharp. While they try and start fires by bashing it. You should just be able to hear the blade run over the steel, any louder your folding it one side then the other. (14 years boning rooms, 25 years boning fish.) Cool channel bud.
Thanks for the demonstration Lonnie!!!! i also use very often the simple steel to sharpen my knives, have a great week and take care, Taro
There is a reason chefs and cooks use a steel or ceramic rod instead of rough stones. Better edge, and preserves the longevity of the blade. I only use stones for very heavy use tools that get dinged and chipped, like shovels, hoes, and axes. Really enjoy your channel for actual, practical skills rather than trying to get us to buy gear, like some.
Thanks for chiming in. I appreciate your comment. Stone user here but giving steel rods a trial as of the new week. Kitchen wear mostly, but used daily by multiple people.
Agree with your sentiment! Great info on this channel.
Yup, I was a butcher many moons ago and was taught a slightly different method for using a steel but your method was in the same ballpark. I still use a steel to sharpen my flat grind knives but haven't got the knack of the Scandinavian grinds. I'll have to look closer at your method and combine the two. Thanks for the vid!
Some peopl ehold the steel vertical with the tip against a table etc. Some folks hold similar to the way I do and stroke the blade away from themselves like I do. Others hold the steel like me but stroke toward themselves. Still others will drag the blade edge backwards instead of stroking toward the blade edge. All these ways work fine as long as one becomes proficient in that method.
I have no idea why i watched that. It was in my recommendations. Not bad though, you got me old beard man.
Isn't it great to attain knowledge of subject you never even knew about?
Well thanks for dropping by for a while. Come back any time.
Thanks for the explanation. You just opened a whole new world to me :) I had a steel like this for years but apparently simply didn't know how to use it properly :) Thanks a million!
There are two types of steels, sharpening and aligning, i.e., serrated and smooth. A steel with serrations actually does remove metal and sharpens the edge. A smooth steel is used for aligning the edge. All the steels I own are sharpening steels although I've worn some out to the point they function well as an aligning steel. One of my favorite aligning steels is actually a long shafted screwdriver. For kitchen knives, when the aligning steel is no longer effective, a sharpening steel can be used. The main goal of using a sharpening steel on kitchen/butchering knives is to expose more carbides. During normal use, the carbides that poke out of the steel matrix give an edge a "serrated" effect. But when the carbides wear down, you need to hit it with a sharpening steel to expose more carbides. Over a long period of time, where the bevel has significantly worn back, you will want to use a stone to restore the original bevel profile.
Thank you for that. I have never used a grooveless steel, but I've seen them. My experience is that striated steels remove steel, and quite a bit when they are new.
Yes, I've seen it repeated over and over that steels don't sharpen but that's one of those myths that is clearly wrong but becomes accepted dogma because it is repeated over and over. If the steel does not sharpen, then why does it have serrations? And if you take a knife blade and coat the edge with magic marker, why is the marker removed? I wish I could remember the source but there was a great article some years back in a cookbook or cooking magazine that covered both smooth and serrated steels. One of the best articles I've ever read on steels. To really see a difference, take a brand new steel and compare to an old worn out steel and you will see metal removal and not just polishing and aligning of the edge.
I have to re-profile my kitchen knives every so many years because of the steel removal. Unless it's those pesky abrasive carrots and meat and stuff.
I think this link does a fair job of making the distinction. He points out that the old sharpening steels do not do much sharpening on the newer cooking knives with a high Rockwell hardness, which is true. I still use them but I also keep a diamond "steel" handy for my harder knives. I also like coarse ceramic "steels."
sharpeningmadeeasy.com/knives2.htm
I know that my fine steel works well enough on a newer Wusthof chef's knife with no supplemental sharpening. I'm not sure if that would count as new harder knife in his book. If anything, I have trouble with over-sharpening as I stated in my main comment to this video and I'm hoping that lightening up a little toward the end and spending more time will wear off the wire edge as I think our host here is probably doing. I am curious as to what the effect of steels of various kinds and levels of wear is regarding steel removal v.s. edge alignment. Also, I don't think I've ever seen compression or "burnishing" discussed in that regard. It seems likely that there is probably a certain amount of compression of the softer steel of the knife, resulting in a stretching or thinning of the edge when worked repeatedly against a much harder material. All of this could be measured and observed with the right equipment and adequate curiosity. Maybe someone has already done it. I don't know. I've written and thought about and practiced sharpening a lot, but I haven't spent much time studying what other people have to say about it, or research etc. When my youtube blows up I'll buy a microscope :)
Oh, and finally, I find that old knives are much more likely to be ground all the way down to the edge in a perfect back to edge grind and be none too thin at that. I think that is because the steel, or just working a knife against the back of another knife, used to be the norm over frequent sharpening, certainly for kitchen knives. I find those very thin knives much superior for kitchen use and steeling over thicker fat beveled/bladed knives.
It's a great joy when I've missed one of your videos, and I find it later. It is like a Christmas present I forgot to open!
Thanks Lonnie, and Connie (sp, I'm advancing in years!).
It took me literally 2 years to convince my wife that the rod doesn't sharpen the knife; she used to make me use it over a trash can to "catch the metal shavings" haha
lol
it really does take steel off but very minute. like wind shapes a mountain. I don't think you'll find filings.
it really does take steel off but very minute. like wind shapes a mountain. I don't think you'll find filings.
it really does take steel off but very minute. like wind shapes a mountain. I don't think you'll find filings.
it really does take steel off but very minute. like wind shapes a mountain. I don't think you'll find filings.
Verrry interesting Lonnie! I've hunted all my life in Northern Ontario & Quebec and used/sharpened many knives. I've heard guys talk about this method but I was never convinced. This video has convinced me to pick one of these up and give it a try. Wish me luck!
so how did i get into the blade sharpening section of youtube?
Lazor Stop being edgy.
i love the sharpening section. isnt it exciting?
the video was awesome, as I never understood exactly how that sharpening tool worked. thanks for the enlightenment.
Sorry if this is a stupid question, but if the blade edge is curled over, then it seems you would need to run the knife in the opposite direction on the honing steel to straighten the edge?
Not a stupid question at all. You are imagining a blade edge that is VERY curled over. If a blade edge gets *that* curled over then the blade edge is too thin and needs to be resharpened on abrasives of some sort. The curl that I am talking about here in the video does not need to be curled over very far at all before it is noticed in diminished blade performance. The trick is to re-straighten the blade edge at this time and not allow the curl to develop further to where it may damage the blade edge. If a person uses the steel when ever "dullness" is first noticed, then the blade edge is only curled slightly and can easily be straightened back up by pushing the blade forward towards it's edge. If the blade edge is curled over so far as to need the blade to be pulled away from the edge then the blade really should be resharpened using abrasives I believe.
Ah, I see now, thank you so much.
Far North Bushcraft And Survival Nice beard
hi lonny thanks for the tip. I'm guilty of sharpening my knife every time it's gets the slightest bit dull but I know better now. thanks for the tip and by the way I love your videos you put out a lot of helpful information
Please read me books. Or explain things to me, or maybe read the backs of cereal boxes.
I'd settle for anything really
I´m always learning ... the thumb nail test worked out really well with my Victorinox Rucksack ... it was a bit dull after all. Thanks brother.
This dude looks 30, 40, 50, and 80 years old all at the same time
He looks 58, if you take into consideration his beard colour compared to his hair colour, and the wear on his hands and fingers. Also the raspyness of his voice.
im sure he is less than 50
Greetings,Thanks for the vid. I make my living sharpening other folk's knives. I've told folk for years, "There are only two ways to sharpen a knife; they are to Move Metal or to Remove Metal." Yet it is amazingly difficult to get them to use a steel. Oh well, it keeps me in business. "Stand that edge back up on its feet." One thing to be aware of for your viewers.... test the heel of the knife's blade at the base of the steel being used. I have seen some where the knife is harder that the steel. if they try to use this combination the effect will be closer to the knife sharpening the steel rather than the result they are looking for.... Keep sharing your vids.Thanks and pax.
+puffinlittle That is a good tip about checking the hardness of knife versus steel with the "heel" of the knife and the base of the steel.
If the steel is smoothing out the curl of the blade, shouldn't you be stroking away from the edge of the blade?
No. As you can see in the video, stroking away from the edge of the blade is not necessary. You are probably picturing a severe curl. I do not let my knives get that bad. If they get so badly curled that stroking away from the edge is required to keep from damaging the blade edge then it is my belief that you are probably better off re-sharpening your blade with an abrasive so as to re-establish a decent edge. If the edge of your blade is so curled over as to require stroking away from the edge then your edge is too thin and needs to be reprofiled and re-established. A properly sharpened edge will not allow the edge to curl over that far.
my father was a chef and he used the same sharping techniques as you have shown. good video.
what a nice man
I love my steel sharpeners. over the past couple of years I've collected several from flea markets. great video. thanks.
To test my knife sharpness I run it across my wrist. If I am still alive after 15 min, then it is not sharp.
Lonnie, I discovered your videos about a month ago and I've watched about 80 of them so far. I really appreciate you and Connie taking the time to share your wisdom, tips and adventures. I have found them most enjoyable and very, very helpful. I also discovered from watching a few of your videos that you are a Christian brother, so it's great to know that although we may not meet in this earthly life, that we shall meet in heaven. I've subscribed to your channel and am enjoying catching up on all your previous videos as well as anticipating new ones which hopefully you will continue to post. Thanks again and I pray that God will continue to bless you richly and provide all your needs according to His riches in glory. - Steve
I used to be a butcher & we used steels constantly, & they do wear the knife down, eventually the knife becomes a long pointed triangle blade & has to be discarded. A steel leaves an edge like very fine saw teeth. For what this guy is doing he needs a leather strop, plus the Mora knife has a very thin blade anyway, so its very easy to sharpen.
PendleHill Billies IL start with a steel then move to a old leather belt flipped raw side with a bit a Polish compound rubbed on it, gets it razor sharp
Yeah, I noticed the micro-serration thing those create, too.
Thanks Lonnie, that was a very informative video...I could never sharpen my knife...so I’ll give this a try...God bless you both!
this is a semantics argument , sharpening vs honing , there is a time and place for both, such as repairing a chipped blade
ha
i've been a chef for almost 20 years and have had this argument many times. "honing steels don't sharpen!" well, i disagree. honing or grinding, both improve the cutting efficiency, making the blade sharper. hence, both are sharpening. like you said, semantics.
@@scatterbug I've long referred to honing/stropping as 'De-blunting' for a lot of people who don't want to know the finer points of bladecare, easier for them to think I mean sharpening and not have to explain them to death lol.
I would have taken your word for it even without you proving it, dude, 'cause it's so obvious you know what you're talking about, but what a great demonstration! Many sincere thanks!
+AeroDoe There's a lot of bullshit on youtube, so proving it is really important in my opinion. But he does indeed know what he's talking about.
Lonnie what is that beautiful song in the beginning of the video?
The "song" has no name. It is just a tune I came up with on the spot as i was recording it. It is played on my home made PVC native American style flute. I show how to make one in the video link below if interested. Of course I also added reverb or "echo" as well as bird and running water sounds to the flute music to make it a richer fuller audio experience.
How To Make A Homemade PVC Flute
ua-cam.com/video/misjPOhd-9o/v-deo.html
Brother Lonnie...you have added to my knife blade knowledge skills..I need to get a steel and practice up...Good video...thank you.
"Sharpen" means "make sharp". If it's by taking off metal or just changing the shape of the knife, it's still sharpening.
In reality the knife is still sharp. It never did get dull and so does not require sharpening. Instead all it requires is to realign the edge. *THAT* is not sharpening.
Sharpen | Definition of Sharpen by Merriam-Webster
www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/sharpensharpening. : to make or become sharp or sharper
Far North Bushcraft And Survival I would still argue that when a blade is bent or curved along the edge, it is no longer the edge that is sharp but a different part of the blade. Either way it cannot cut, and the reason is because the very edge is not sharp; the sharp part has moved or deformed to a useless position. Still, I suppose I see your point.
Ambidextroid you're right. He just one of those people
You mean people that think and analyze, or worthless trolls?
i did understand the point of your video, in fact, i think its a simple concept to grasp, sadly people tend to have the right no matter what the facts are
amazing video. Im having problems keeping my knives sharp and I think you just solved all my problems! really think your channel is one of the best on youtube!
I used to be a slaughterman, and the steel kept the edge tug free for up to a hundred sheep, then it was time for the stone. if I had known what you have shown, the steel, rather than the stone would have been much easier. ..
thank you
Out of the hundreds of butcher, chefs, slaughtermen, etc i have worked with i've met 2 that showed me how to do it correctly. It's not that everyone else were wrong its just another way of doing it. People can't get their heads around it. I've shown hundreds of people how to steel a knife EXACTLY like i do, soon as i move off bash, bash, bash.... then its "can you sharpen my knife for me? its blunt" Maybe i should get off my butt and put up a vid, Hell i''ll do it, send it to this bloke and he can put it up. Also you want a sharp knife? get a F-Dick multicut steel, mine's 16 years old and they get better with age. Like me.
My local butcher taught me the same method. Spot on!
Thanks for the video.
A SHARP KNIFE IS A SAFE KNIFE