the separation of Pigment and Oil in the Michael Harding paint is only because they dont add any aditional filler or stabilizer is straight up only that, it happens in all mayor brands like Vasari, Rublev or Old Holland.
I also have some vintage Winsor & Newton Artist. Some 1960s graphics on the tubes, and some pre-1960s. Like yourself, I think 40s, or maybe 50s. There is some variability in quality due to age. There is a golden yellow that has gone a bit rubbery, after maybe 70 years. Venetian red, a bit resistant too, at first, but soon smooths down under the palette knife. Pthalo green is easy to work with, I have 2 W and N versions... one called Monestial Green, the other Winsor Green (same pigment no.s). All in all, most of the few I have are great to work with
I've gotten rather fond of vintage winsor and newton oil paint, it just seems so much better than modern somehow. I've gotten hold of quite a lot of paint from the 50s or about, just, hoarding them. I haven't heard of Monestial Green, though!
I got that rush of disappointment from Harding's too. My tubes from 6 to 10 yrs ago had thicker paint. New tubes are runny. Same with Winsor & Newton Artist, which are cheaper. Harding's told me to stand the tubes upside down for a day or 2, to fix the runniness. I'm still not convinced. It may be that it's separation, because there are no additives. On the other hand, I think Old Holland are still thick like always, though not sure if that means they add something. I feel a more inclined towards Old Holland now, but MH were my favourite for a few years
I really needed this Ty. I am a model builder which is not ideal Oil pint doesn't like to go on plastics or wooden vessels however if we persist oh can we :) with some amazing results Mistakes are being made though haha. Currently the model group are using linseed oil to thin it, which is counter productive (adding more oil when trying to adhere to plastic you want to dry it quicker not add more oil right?). What are your experiences if any with the winton Q/Dry series? I also saw a good video on Alkyd any thoughts? as they are on special I don't want them to dry out though in the tubes will it be a cheap (for a reason) product? Thank you in advance you have been such a massive help and none of the artists will talk to me I dunno model building must be something they want nothing to do with I guess. I now know to go Expensive full pigment paint for my aircraft when for display CAD R/Y and a tube of Hue should do me absolutely perfect (this is your help you doing for me) saving me a fortune in testing. Is there any way I can medium that helps evaporate it really fast or is Liquin and Turps etc all we truly have? any recommendations on brands regardless if its 30 bucks a tube haha I am going to enjoy your videos paint shopping, because if I just get the right tubes they will last me or serve me for ever ideally :)
I have absolutely no experience with model painting and don't know how specific paint brands adhere to the plastic or wood being used. Wood is porous, though, so maybe it might work better with water soluble oil, as you can add water to the oil paint instead of linseed? I'm just theorizing, I have NO IDEA, try that at your own risk. Alkyd dries faster -- I tried it briefly, but it dried TOO fast for me xD -- so it may work out for the models. But I'm thinking giving Winton a try might be something. It's student grade, but it is THICK, it's like painting with clay at times which may be exactly what you need in certain applications. ... I'm just throwing ideas out there. :D
@@CallyKariShokka you are amazing do not worry. As I am just sort of getting an opinion it doesn’t have to work out as long as I am not buying junk I don’t or not junk just stuff I can’t use as these can get expensive haha. So you are getting my there Alkyd is my brand. Thank you. 🙏
Antique oil paint is hit or miss: Some work like they're brand new, some separate from the oil and become unusable messes, and some just dry out and become rock hard. I like buying them, though!
@@dimitrispapadimitriou5622 Typically yes. This specific tube cost me $40, as it was listed by itself from an ebay seller that just listed it as 'Oil paint'. Usually whole sets of vintage paint can go for a solid couple of hundred bucks. It also depends the color, the rarer colors will go for more.
I can tell you for a fact that the cad hues don't behave like the real cads. I have the Winton cad yellow hue, and it's super transparent and not full bodied.
At least your mom cared enough about you to subscribe. My Mom isn't subscribed to me because she doesn't have a UA-cam account and out of my 2 brothers only the younger one bothered to do so...☹️
HI DANIEL. ...My mom doesn't really GET youtube but her loyal, loving and caring children have taught her how to subscribe to things. No, I don't know if my mom can see these comments but I'm not taking any chances.
@@CallyKariShokka 😅😅 Well they test it by making a swatch of one particular pigment or paint they cover half of it and put it in the sun for about a year ..how much that part fades determine its lightfastness
Secret shmeekret - if a company won't tell me what's in their paint, I'm not buying it. By the way, separaration of oil from pigment is not a bad thing nor an indication of cheapness (if that's what you said: my hearing issues are challenged by your microphone and possibly by the up and down nature of your voice). You'll find that Rublev paints also separate, but that's because they don't use fillers.
Yes, but not by much. I don't have a scale, but holding them in my hands, the cadmium one is a touch heavier than the cadmium-free, but in a way that you'd really have to FEEL for it. If you just picked them up in the store, I don't think you'd readily notice a difference in weight.
There is more cadmium in baby food. The human liver is designed to remove cadmium from our system. So there is no reason whatsoever to avoid cadmium paint.
Hm, our body needs iron but we still can get iron poisoning. Everything is great in moderation. Plus, the chemical formula for baby food may be different than the actual paint chemical formula and may react to the body differently.
@@keepyourshoesathedoor you're right. It's more toxic in baby food. Guess that goes to show us, most people are sheep. Just as Edward Bernays said when the government came to him asking him how to mass control the population. He said it is easy because people are more predictable than animals. Just pay someone prettier, happier, wealthier than the common man and they'll follow what he says blindly. Congress ordered televisions be made inexpensive enough to be put in every household. People rather repeat what they hear than actually learn the science. Even when they have the wealth of the world's information in the palm of their hands and a PhD telling them. Now that's wilful ignorance at its finest. Imbeciles
Cadmium-free is just a gimmick: the company thought that risk-averse yet scientifically unaware people would be frightened by using metal-based paints, so they saw a marketing opportunity and just re-labelled pyrrole red (probably) as cadmium-free cadmium red. Well, companies have to survive, and to do that they have to maximize profits in a competitive industry: but - that's no good reason to be taken in by it.
I've seen a few of your videos and I noticed that when you get a situation there a bunch of oil pours out of your paint tube you always give a strong impression that you feel the quality of the paint isn't as good and that's why it happens. Almost like you believe that this proves it, when in reality it doesn't. You also tend to talk it down/make it seem like it's lesser than the rest solely based on the fact that you get a bunch of oil oozing out when you open them. Oil separation and oil collecting on the top of the tube is a completely normal thing especially when a paint tube has been sitting for a long time. Anyways just pointing that out since your videos are basically giving information to people I thought you might want some feedback.
the separation of Pigment and Oil in the Michael Harding paint is only because they dont add any aditional filler or stabilizer is straight up only that, it happens in all mayor brands like Vasari, Rublev or Old Holland.
Nothing can replace original cadmium pigments
Cadmium pigments is irreplaceable. I love pyrroles for glazing but still cads are beautiful and opaque 😍
You got the best oil paint brands on earth. Lovely.
Lotta comparisons here, you pulled out so many reds! Great video!
I also have some vintage Winsor & Newton Artist. Some 1960s graphics on the tubes, and some pre-1960s. Like yourself, I think 40s, or maybe 50s. There is some variability in quality due to age. There is a golden yellow that has gone a bit rubbery, after maybe 70 years. Venetian red, a bit resistant too, at first, but soon smooths down under the palette knife. Pthalo green is easy to work with, I have 2 W and N versions... one called Monestial Green, the other Winsor Green (same pigment no.s). All in all, most of the few I have are great to work with
I've gotten rather fond of vintage winsor and newton oil paint, it just seems so much better than modern somehow. I've gotten hold of quite a lot of paint from the 50s or about, just, hoarding them. I haven't heard of Monestial Green, though!
Thank you, you solved some questions for me
I got that rush of disappointment from Harding's too. My tubes from 6 to 10 yrs ago had thicker paint. New tubes are runny. Same with Winsor & Newton Artist, which are cheaper. Harding's told me to stand the tubes upside down for a day or 2, to fix the runniness. I'm still not convinced. It may be that it's separation, because there are no additives. On the other hand, I think Old Holland are still thick like always, though not sure if that means they add something. I feel a more inclined towards Old Holland now, but MH were my favourite for a few years
I really needed this Ty. I am a model builder which is not ideal Oil pint doesn't like to go on plastics or wooden vessels however if we persist oh can we :) with some amazing results Mistakes are being made though haha. Currently the model group are using linseed oil to thin it, which is counter productive (adding more oil when trying to adhere to plastic you want to dry it quicker not add more oil right?). What are your experiences if any with the winton Q/Dry series? I also saw a good video on Alkyd any thoughts? as they are on special I don't want them to dry out though in the tubes will it be a cheap (for a reason) product? Thank you in advance you have been such a massive help and none of the artists will talk to me I dunno model building must be something they want nothing to do with I guess. I now know to go Expensive full pigment paint for my aircraft when for display CAD R/Y and a tube of Hue should do me absolutely perfect (this is your help you doing for me) saving me a fortune in testing. Is there any way I can medium that helps evaporate it really fast or is Liquin and Turps etc all we truly have? any recommendations on brands regardless if its 30 bucks a tube haha I am going to enjoy your videos paint shopping, because if I just get the right tubes they will last me or serve me for ever ideally :)
I have absolutely no experience with model painting and don't know how specific paint brands adhere to the plastic or wood being used. Wood is porous, though, so maybe it might work better with water soluble oil, as you can add water to the oil paint instead of linseed? I'm just theorizing, I have NO IDEA, try that at your own risk. Alkyd dries faster -- I tried it briefly, but it dried TOO fast for me xD -- so it may work out for the models. But I'm thinking giving Winton a try might be something. It's student grade, but it is THICK, it's like painting with clay at times which may be exactly what you need in certain applications. ... I'm just throwing ideas out there. :D
@@CallyKariShokka you are amazing do not worry. As I am just sort of getting an opinion it doesn’t have to work out as long as I am not buying junk I don’t or not junk just stuff I can’t use as these can get expensive haha. So you are getting my there Alkyd is my brand. Thank you. 🙏
This is educative and funny, thanks!
Wow ,that old tube holds really well for its age!
Antique oil paint is hit or miss: Some work like they're brand new, some separate from the oil and become unusable messes, and some just dry out and become rock hard. I like buying them, though!
@@CallyKariShokka was it expensive?
@@dimitrispapadimitriou5622 Typically yes. This specific tube cost me $40, as it was listed by itself from an ebay seller that just listed it as 'Oil paint'. Usually whole sets of vintage paint can go for a solid couple of hundred bucks. It also depends the color, the rarer colors will go for more.
Yes I had the same exact question. Is there really a difference?
I can tell you for a fact that the cad hues don't behave like the real cads. I have the Winton cad yellow hue, and it's super transparent and not full bodied.
nice video but the shadow tho...I like the vintage paint best
At least your mom cared enough about you to subscribe. My Mom isn't subscribed to me because she doesn't have a UA-cam account and out of my 2 brothers only the younger one bothered to do so...☹️
HI DANIEL. ...My mom doesn't really GET youtube but her loyal, loving and caring children have taught her how to subscribe to things. No, I don't know if my mom can see these comments but I'm not taking any chances.
Tragic
The biggest question i have is ..does the red hue have the same lightfastness as the cad red ?
My question is, how does one test lightfastness, because I have absolutely no idea.
@@CallyKariShokka 😅😅
Well they test it by making a swatch of one particular pigment or paint they cover half of it and put it in the sun for about a year ..how much that part fades determine its lightfastness
@@k.k8791 That seems easy enough, but... That's a long time to wait for a youtube video. 😆
@@CallyKariShokka it's a hell of a time to wait...that's why we have lightfastness ratings by other artists or other companies
The lightfast rating is on the tube.
Secret shmeekret - if a company won't tell me what's in their paint, I'm not buying it. By the way, separaration of oil from pigment is not a bad thing nor an indication of cheapness (if that's what you said: my hearing issues are challenged by your microphone and possibly by the up and down nature of your voice). You'll find that Rublev paints also separate, but that's because they don't use fillers.
Is the cadmium free as heavy a tube as the original cadmium, I know the winton range is not near as heavy
Yes, but not by much. I don't have a scale, but holding them in my hands, the cadmium one is a touch heavier than the cadmium-free, but in a way that you'd really have to FEEL for it. If you just picked them up in the store, I don't think you'd readily notice a difference in weight.
How hard can it be these days for a another company to let the cadmium-free oilcolour analyse by an labarotory?🤔
There is more cadmium in baby food. The human liver is designed to remove cadmium from our system. So there is no reason whatsoever to avoid cadmium paint.
...So what you're saying is, A: Avoid baby food, and B: Eat the oil paint. Gotcha!
Hm, our body needs iron but we still can get iron poisoning. Everything is great in moderation.
Plus, the chemical formula for baby food may be different than the actual paint chemical formula and may react to the body differently.
@@keepyourshoesathedoor you're right. It's more toxic in baby food. Guess that goes to show us, most people are sheep. Just as Edward Bernays said when the government came to him asking him how to mass control the population. He said it is easy because people are more predictable than animals. Just pay someone prettier, happier, wealthier than the common man and they'll follow what he says blindly. Congress ordered televisions be made inexpensive enough to be put in every household. People rather repeat what they hear than actually learn the science. Even when they have the wealth of the world's information in the palm of their hands and a PhD telling them. Now that's wilful ignorance at its finest.
Imbeciles
Cadmium-free is just a gimmick: the company thought that risk-averse yet scientifically unaware people would be frightened by using metal-based paints, so they saw a marketing opportunity and just re-labelled pyrrole red (probably) as cadmium-free cadmium red. Well, companies have to survive, and to do that they have to maximize profits in a competitive industry: but - that's no good reason to be taken in by it.
Trimakasih tutorial nya..
Smoga sukses selalu..
so does hue mean there is NO cadmium?
Hue means that there is, in fact, no cadmium! Hue means it's made to mimic it!
I've seen a few of your videos and I noticed that when you get a situation there a bunch of oil pours out of your paint tube you always give a strong impression that you feel the quality of the paint isn't as good and that's why it happens. Almost like you believe that this proves it, when in reality it doesn't. You also tend to talk it down/make it seem like it's lesser than the rest solely based on the fact that you get a bunch of oil oozing out when you open them. Oil separation and oil collecting on the top of the tube is a completely normal thing especially when a paint tube has been sitting for a long time. Anyways just pointing that out since your videos are basically giving information to people I thought you might want some feedback.