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What Brands of Oil Paint Should You Buy?
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- Опубліковано 31 бер 2016
- Oil paint can be thought of as being in three different "grades". Student grade, Artist grade and Premium grade. In this video I explain the differences and help you choose the best one for your budget. These are brands that I personally recommend, but there are many more out there that you can try.
www.WalcottFine...
Winton, Classico, Winsor & Newton, Gamblin, LeFranc, Rembrandt, Michael Harding and Old Holland can all be purchased at major online art supply dealers:
www.dickblick.com
www.jerrysartar...
Vasari Oils:
vasaricolors.com
www.jacksonsart...
Blue Ridge Oils:
blueridgeoilpai...
Brandenburg Concerto No4-1 BWV1049 - Classical Whimsical by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommon...)
Source: incompetech.com...
Artist: incompetech.com/
*This man is precious. Cherish him, you guys. We're so lucky to have such a kindhearted, talented teacher in this era.*
Thank you so much for the kind comment! I'm glad you've enjoyed my channel :)
@@walcottfineart5088 Oh my, that's not hard to do! I've been lost in your videos for days- they're absolutely glorious!
If anything, thank YOU for all your hard work! ♡
@@robynalice879 yes his videos are appealing to watch and they make you excited about painting. Easy to listen to, not contrived, no bs, etc… More enjoyable and easy to watch and follow than most other channels for some reason. His approach focuses on pigments and products and how they’re all different. This opened my eyes as a beginner about 4-5 years ago and, now with a newly rekindled interest in painting, I get just as much going back to them as I did then.
In all the time I took college art, I was never taught about grades of paint. Your videos are so informative, helpful, and well made, I can see a LOT of thought went into making them. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks for watching and for the nice comment! I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found it useful. :)
@Wenceslao Futanaki you need an actual degree though in art if you going to become a designer or architect or something like that.
I learned of grades and other stuff like light fastness
Why would u take art?
I have DEFINITELY found Blue Ridge Oil Colors to be of premium quality, but with Artist's Grade prices (since they are made locally in the USA by a small company), LOVE them. They also have responsive, wonderful customer service, which to me, is also very important in choosing a brand. Thanks for turning me onto them! I have replaced almost all my student grade paints with them thanks to your video, and Eric even sent me a free tube of Transparent Red Oxide. :)
That is awesome! Glad I helped you find Blue Ridge. Their paints are very well priced for the quality you get. :)
Good to know! I'm going to try them!
@@walcottfineart5088 Have you tried M. Graham and Co oils? I love them. They don't have an odor and the colors are rich and super highly pigmented.
@@edenrosearcher8183 Yes I have tried M Graham! In fact I have a video coming up where i review them :) Thanks for watching!
@@walcottfineart5088 I bought Blue Ridge oils based on this video, and it was not the only source for them I found, but after seeing this, I thought, not going to be a risk! Thank you for that! BRO's are mixed using walnut oil, and are a little slower drying, but are really nice pigments. After using them for about a month, I am really pleased and don't use my other paints anymore, they just don't compare. You are absolutely right about inferior paints hindering progress.
you are so generous to share us these useful information,thank you
Thanks so much for the nice comment! I'm glad you enoyed it. :)
You rock dude. Can't wait to see more of your videos. This was my first of yours. Thanks for a great video.
Thanks so much for the nice comment! I'm glad you are enoying my videos. :)
You would be an amazing art teacher! Thanks for the video :)
I couldn't agree more.
Complete beginner here. This is an excellent video -- very clear and well-explained. I just bought a set of Grumbacher Pre-Tested paints. Hope I didn't make a mistake!! :)
Thanks so much for watching! :) Grumbacher is a student grade quality paint, but since you are just starting out that will give you some leeway to practice. When you get a chance, try one of the nicer paints...I think you will be pleased!
At Ease with that Grumbacher as 'Student grade!' Grumbacher is probably the Oldest U.S. made oil paint company , located I believe in Brooklyn , New York! Yes , the ones he's showing ARE great paints, but Grumbacher is by far the best! Get with it and Stay with it and you won't be sorry! The one to stay away from would be "Winton", it is definitely 'student grade', cheap and it shows! I tried some Gamblin but it seemed to 'loose'. GRUMBACHER!
@@MAC-ws8fz I have to disagree with you. I refuse to use any of my Grumbacher oils. Not worth the money I paid for them. The quality of the Blue Ridge and Old Holland with consistency and pigmentation far exceed Grumbacher!
Ralph Mayer had no problem with Grumbacher!@@MAC-ws8fz
You are an accomplished artist, Jason, and a skillful teacher. I admire your art, value your painting that hangs in my living room to be studied and admired, and am grateful for all I have learned from you.
Thanks for the very kind remarks Brian! I'm so glad you've enjoyed my videos :)
Winsor and Newton's own video claims the only difference between their Winton and Professional range is the latter contains more pigment. The artist L S Lowry would only use Winton paint and a narrow palette of 5 colours, including flake white and ivory black. The stiffer nature of the paint suited his technique. One of his paintings sold for £5.7 million.
Yeah. I actually like to use Jacksons own brand of paint. You actually pay for the product rather than the label.
The thinking process says otherwise. If one has more pigment, then the other must have something ELSE. These are usually cheap fillers. Also Winton paints as all non professional paints have several hues, i.e not pure single pigment colors, but aproximations by combining 2 cheaper pgiments.
@@johnnysmith379 I've been using Jackson's professional brand paint recently and I really like them a lot. I don't like the artist range much for quality, but the professional range is stellar. I just wish there were more pigment options in the professional range.
I just started art school and they’re giving us Old Holland to paint with. I’m afraid I’m getting horrifically spoiled real early in the game :D
That's great they are starting you out on such a nice paint! Lucky you :) Thanks for watching!
All my 12 questions answered in this great video, thank you thank you keep up the great work and God Bless you
Thank you so much for the nice comment! I'm really glad you found this video useful. :)
Thank you Jason. The information you provide to artist of every level is almost invaluable. Your generosity is greatly appreciated.
I'm so glad you enjoyed this video :) Thanks for watching!
Rublev, michael harding, Sennelier, and Old Holland. 💖 for big pieces I use art spectrum and gamblin because they’re waller friendly.
Yes absolutely! Many artists who work very large will use less expensive paint, even student grade sometimes. Gamblin is great stuff though so you can't go wrong there. Thanks for watching! :)
This will probably always be the best oil paint video ever ever and ever.
Thanks for watching! :)
check out Geneva oil paint.
I tried Gamblin, but I got runny tube after runny tube, basically wasting half my tube when oil kept pouring out.
I now use Winsor & Newton and Rembrandt, they're brushable but not super runny like Gamblin. Lefranc is good too, buttery.
Thanks for the comment! Some brands do tend to throw off oil like that. I have even had it happen with Winsor & Newton myself. It has more to do with the properties of the pigment than the quality of the paint. The best way to combat it is to store your tubes cap down. LeFranc is awesome!
It depends a lot on how the paint is stored and how long it’s on the shelf. All paints separate, it’s a fact. If runny, simply place strips of paper towel around the pile of paint, in just a few minutes excess will be drawn off.
Aurelie Nani I had the same experience with one tube. They replaced it.
Am i the only person who shakes the tube to get it re mixed together :p?
What needs to be said is that professional grade paints allow the characteristics of each pigment to be fully exploited to advantage. Some colors are very lean and stiff like lead white (9-12% oil by weight to grind), while others like Lapis or Roasted Ivory black require much more oil to grind (50%+) so they have a very different texture and drying time. Some will dry with a mat finish (lean) - others with a gloss finish ("fat"). Such colors can be tools used to enhance the painting process, apart from being "color". Umber can be used as a drier due to the manganese it contains, so you have another option besides lead. The lesser grades of paint do not allow this as they are formulated to present a uniform consistency, texture and drying time - preventing effective and economical painting. This removes any chance of exploiting the pigments you are paying for. When bound in large quantities of cheap oils, fillers and extenders, those options are just not available. Many lower end paints are no longer using linseed oil, which provides the toughest film, so best to check. Better paints will use better oils. Try to buy the best paint you can. Learning any traditional oil technique with student grade paint is an uphill battle on a slippery slope.
I use (in no order) Michael Harding, Gazo, Old Holland, Charvin, Rublev and Blockx. I started painting over 40 years ago and those have proven to be the best I can get.
Yes this is very true! I always encourage people to buy the best they can afford. Thanks for watching! :)
Thank you. You have a very good channel. @@walcottfineart5088
as i have started to work larger Ive had to make sacrifices in order not to go bankrupt purchasing paint. I have found The "house brand for UTRECHT" is pretty decent in larger tubes
Thanks for the comment. I totally agree! There are too many brands to cover all of them in one video, but Utrecht is great. I had actually planned on doing a video on them soon! I really like their Cadmium Red Light Pure.
I haven't tried Michael Harding, but am so hooked on Vasari that I need shop no further.
Thanks for watching! Vasari is wonderful! I really love their paints. :)
As usual, you cut to the chase and say it as it is - you are always helpful and I love listening to you
Thanks for the nice comment and for watching! :)
Langridge oils from Australia have more pigment than the Michael Harding's and the old Holland. I haven't used vasari so I can't comment on them except to say that they won't disclose the pigments they use. The best earth's I have come across are those from the Rublev line from natural pigments and Williamsburg earth's are excellent as well.
I have never heard of Langridge! Thanks for the great comment. Most artists use a mix of different brands and there are some Williamsburg colors that I just love.
Alba Whiteman thanks!
Alba Whiteman How do you know Langridge paints have more pigment than Michael Harding's? Is that a fact which you can prove or just your impression?
Well Piero, I have compared brands over 10 years and have about 800 tubes of oil paints. I was originally inspired by Jim Francis ( gun zorro ) on wet canvas forum. Cheers
Thanks Alba, I didn't know about Langridge. The Natural Pigments line is my favorite by far. I would suggest that students buy the finer grades of earth colors from the best companies (as they are still affordable and last longer) and use a limited palette to save money. Working with a limited palette of pure pigment ground in linseed oil is a great way to learn the craft. If the student needs cobalt, cerulean and cadmiums (more expensive colors) he/she really can't go wrong with Blue Ridge Artists Colors.
Thank you for these videos. Currently in school majoring in art and i really enjoy learning from these videos.
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. :)
One of the most informatove art channels on UA-cam. Great info
Thanks for the nice comment and for watching! :)
You seem like a very positive person. I enjoyed watching your video.
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching :)
Excellent breakdown of the different grades
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it :)
If you want your paintings to last a long time without issues, one of the best ways is to use lead (AKA flake, etc) white instead of titanium white or zinc white. And DO NOT use any paints (or primers AKA gesso) made with zinc. Many titanium whites and gesso (and pre-primed canvases) have zinc added, sometimes it's hard to figure it out. Some people think a small amount of added zinc is OK, but why risk it. One of the best brands (and a great source for info) is Natural Pigments.
Thanks for a great comment Rachel! Yes, Natural Pigments (Rublev) is one of my favorite paints. I have another video just on those. I am also aware of the zinc thing although I have heard testing shows small amounts are OK like 15% or less. Pure Titanium White is almost unusable...it really needs something to dilute it a bit. I mostly use Lead White but not everyone can handle the cost or they may be concerned about toxicity. Thanks for watching! :)
Hi, I'm ruthie, been painting now for some years and interested in learning about the paints(especially the one you talked about the white 'lead'/ flake'..... what brands and stores carry them? Would also go on line to get them if needs be.
:)ruti
Really. Claude Monet used zinc white almost exclusively in his Water Lilies. His ground layer was lead. Van Gogh used both lead and zinc for their different properties. Zinc must NEVER be used as a ground.
I have developed a loyalty to M. Graham. They fall into the artist category and use walnut oil. They are American made and especially suited for glazing. Maybe less for the impasto artist though. Mussini oils peaked my interest because they use damar in their recipe which is claimed to bring out more brilliance in the colors.
Thanks for the comment! I have heard great things about M Graham, but have never gotten around to trying them. I should do that sometime soon! :)
I think M.Graham is the best for the money. I use them alongside my Blue Ridge and Michael Harding.
I love Winsor and Newton! They are really good tbh. I think they definitely do the work and you do a great job explaining everything
Thanks for watching! :)
Blue Ridge Colors! Pure Pigment & Walnut Oil will make it glow!
Yes, Blue Ridge uses walnut oil as well as linseed. :) Thanks for watching!
@@walcottfineart5088 Just spent all my lunchmoney there an hour ago ( 16 150ml tubes). Thanks for the tip in an earlier video about Eric and his pigments
.
@@Beinhartwie1chopper Oooo It's always fun to place a big art supply order like that! Enjoy! :)
@@Beinhartwie1chopper Blue Ridge are primo paints! I bought big tubes of Thalo Blue, Ultramarine, Raw Sienna YS, Yellow Ochre, Titanium-Zinc White, Burnt Sienna, Cremnitz White, and Mars Red. They have the best consistency of any paint I've used. Have fun!
@@ibanez2010 I think they might come tomorrow! I forgot the indian yellow so I have to make one more order. (good choice with the Cremnitz!)
I use Sherwin-Williams. It's only $45 gal.
Joe B 😂
John Myatt, a famous art forger, used housepaint for years and some of his forgeries are still hanging in museums.
LMAO!
So did Jackson Pollock
Sherwin-Williams sucks, even for latex house paint...it doesn't cover at all.....Go with Behr, or Kelly Moore/Benjamin Moore.
Thank you for this video.
Our teen, who will be a Senior this year decided they would love to try more oil painting.
She's a very talented artist with pencil, pro markers and also digital drawing but has always doubted herself with painting, especially oil.
17th birthday coming up in 2 months and this video - and comments (the very first one I have looked at from a research pov) has provided me with a lot of info.
I have to say though, i thought her markers were expensive (looking at you Copic) then I saw Old Holland 😱 but im seeing a lot of great - less expensive options also.
Thank you to the creator and all the other artists for chiming in. A little overwhelming but if there is something I have learned while having an artist in the house - tools and material quality do matter.
Thanks so much for the great comment! I'm so glad my video was helpful. Yes, Old Holland is one of the most expensive brands! They are not my favorite however, I find them too stiff. I think to start off, Winsor & Newton Artists Oils or Gamblin would fantastic choices. I hope your daughter has lots of fun painting! :)
When it comes to oil paints, I use a variety of Artist and Premium Level oil paints on my palettes. I do sometimes play around with student grade oils when I do an oil sketch or just practicing or even when I have students come in for a lesson. But my palette consists of only Premium Level Oils such as Old Holland, Michael Harding and Vasari and Artist Grade such as M.Graham, Gamblin and Rembrandt.
Thanks for watching!
ok ?
I love the way you make your videos, you go directly to work, you are informative and helpful without distraction and share awesome knowledge. You explain very well without extra chatting....even that some times I wish you talk more, thank you!
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm glad you are enjoying my videos. :)
Thank you SO much for this, Jason! You just saved me a lot of headache and hassle with this video! Love your work too! Cheers!
Thank you for the nice comment! I'm so glad my video helped you out! Thanks for watching... :)
Great video by the way. Very helpful and I'm using it as a reference when I embark into paints that are more heavily pigmented. The videos ive seen so far, you explain things cleary, are unpretentious, and don't make me feel like I'm over my head with all this stuff...or an idiot. Thank you.
Thanks for the nice comment! I'm so glad that you find my videos helpful. :)
Here in Ireland in most art shops you have a choice of W & N Winton or W & N Artist.
I use the Artist. Only one shop in Dublin that has a few other brands.
I can see how that would happen. Have you tried ordering from Jackson's in London? They carry a wide range including some of the American brands. You'd have to order by mail but that's how I get 90% of my supplies...it's usually less expensive too. Thanks for watching! :)
This was very helpful! I decided to take up painting again and wanted to try oil paint again and find this easy to understand and break things down
I'm so glad my video was helpful! Have fun with your painting! :)
Beautiful! Thank you for this informative video! I am an artist who uses mostly acrylics, but I truly want to do more oils and I was wanting to know about the different brands. I have never heard of any of the professional brands you stated. It would be great to try the one made in NC, USA! AWESOME! I will check their website now!🎶
I'm so glad you found my video helpful! Thanks so much for watching and for the nice comment. :)
I bought a tube of Michael Harding's Cobalt Blue a while ago, having used some of their less expensive colours before: the quality of it was just incredible - I could never use a different Cobalt now (although I've not tried Old Holland's). Another student grade paint is Georgian, made by the Daler-Rowney company in the UK. If you want an inexpensive paint of good quality, then this is one I'd suggest. Also the Lukas range, which is available in large tubes. This was a good run-through covering a very wide range of paints, but of course there are many possibilities and, as you say - you can't cover them all in one video.
I agree the Michael Harding is great! They are worth every penny. Thanks for the comment. :)
I use student grade paints for underpaintings and small studies, and premium grade paints for quality work. Practice is everything, started from a basic cheap Reeves oil painting set, and once I got the hang of oils (trust me it's the most advanced medium an artist can use to paint with), which takes constant work I noticed a huge difference when I started mixing in the premium paints.
Thanks for watching and for a great comment! You can definitely use different paint grades depending on what the finished work will be. :)
The method I use to save money is to use Winton for underpainting or distant areas in a landscape. Also Winton earth colours are very good. For middle or foregound though I always use better quality, this works well for me.
That's a great idea Adrian! There is no reason you can't mix them together in the same painting. Thanks for a great comment!
I wish if you talked more details about each brand! With ones are the most stiff and with are the softest? Thanks
Thanks for watching! That's a great idea for future videos. I will add it to the list. :)
Thank you for this!! I have been wanting to get back into oil painting but figured I'd research this time... very helpful!!
I'm so glad my video helped you! Thanks for watching :)
The brand is Royal Talens, the series is Rembrandt (the professional series), student grade is Van Gogh.
Thanks so much! :) for sharing your knowledge of what paint you use and explaining the different kinds of grade paints.
I'm glad you found my video helpful! Thanks for watching. :)
By far Old Holland is the best of the best. Once you know what you are doing, I say buy the highest grade for the most expensive pigments like the cadmiums, they will last (unless you paint from the tube) and reward you, and you can easily get by with middle grade for everything else like your ultramarine and earth tones, your real work horses. I find Vasari is nice but not nearly as strongly pigmented as Old Holland for the price. Some excellent high middle grades should also include Sennelier, and several others. I personally do not care for Gamblin because it has a mushy texture. But I do like the others mentioned here.
Thanks for watching! :) Yes, every artist has their own likes and dislikes for paint texture etc. I find Old Holland to be too stiff for me. It's great paint though!
@@walcottfineart5088 stiff like you can't move it around with brush easily? Even with medium?
Aren't schminke mussini the same quality like old Holland plus they have a resin like finish to them (mussini )
@@anony5021 No, medium will make Old Holland much easier to spread, but out of the tube they are quite stiff. Not so much so you can't use them though. Just too stiff for my tastes. Many artists love them.
@@anony5021 Schmincke Mussini oils are very high quality for sure! However, they do contain that resin and more and more recent evidence has shown that resins in paints are detrimental long term. They may contribute to cracking if overused. Plus they smell kinda funny, not like typical oil paints.
Gamblin has student level and artist level paints, extremely high quality along with their mediums. Gamsol, their solvent is extremely safe and no noticeable odor.
Thanks for watching! Gamblin is an excellent brand... I use them myself. The Gamsol too. It is truly odorless.
This was so helpful and very well done! Thanks for the help!
Thank you! I'm so glad you found it helpful. :)
Loved your video! Thank you for teaching us soooo much! I’m a beginner and am so excited about seeing if I’m an artist!
I'm so glad my video was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
Hello! Painting is my hobby, I don’t even sell my artworks. I used Sennelier extra fine colors. Now I use Blockx and I recommend. I definetely like Rembrandt, those colors are less expensive that Blockx but still excellent quality.
Yes Rembrandt is a great brand! I like their Yellow Ochre a lot. Thanks for watching!
The raw amber by Vasari has a very nice color.
I really appreciate this video! I came here looking for more info on Michael harden and now looking into blue Ridge. Thank you. Keep up the great work! I will be subscribing in 3. 2. 1.
I just bought some of the Old Holland and Blue Ridge paints. They are awesome.
Glad you've enjoyed your paints! Thanks for watching. :)
Hi Jason! I've been told that storing my tubed oil pain in my un air conditioned garage/studio, is bad for the paint. I know you're interested art history and historic artists, but would you have any idea of how artists of the past that lived in hot climates stored their tubed paints, before the invention of air conditioning? New York, Paris, Rome, etc., could get pretty hot in the summer in the late 1890s and on.
I have not actually heard that! The enemy of oil paint is exposure to oxygen which will make it polymerize and harden. Theoretically, a tube of oil paint that was perfectly sealed would remain wet forever. Indeed I have seen people buy vintage paint tubes on eBay from the 1930s that are still usable. I am not sure about the heat thing. Either it didn't affect those tubes in the 1890s or artists just lived with it, and used their paint up as fast as possible! That's all they ever knew, so to them it would have just been the way it was. Thanks for watching! :)
@@walcottfineart5088 - FYI, from Gamblin for those interested: "Dear Kevin,
Thanks for contacting Gamblin.
You could store your materials in the studio during the winter. Cold temperatures will not harm oil painting materials like your colors or Oil Ground.
However, high heat is certainly something that should be avoided whenever possible for the best shelf life.
Oil colors have a stable shelf life in tubes and should be usable within a decade of production if they are capped well and stored away from heat.
Avoid storing tubes with the cap in an upright orientation as the oil will separate to the top of the tube. Upside-down storage with the cap facing the ground helps prevent oil separation.
We have seen oil colors in tubes still usable into a second, even third decade. If color can be squeezed from the tube and is still manageable under brush, it is perfectly usable regardless its age. Sometimes a stiff color will need a little added oil to make it more malleable under a brush or palette knife.
I hope this information helps but please let us know if you have further questions."
Thank you for the breakdowns on the 3 types of grades. Now i have a better understanding. Im a beginner so its rough at 1st lol
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you found the video useful. :)
Im going to try some blue Ridge for sure ! Thanks for the great video !
Enjoy and thanks for watching! :)
Hi Jason! I have to stock up on paints so I was reviewing your take on paints! Ty for this great review! So thorough and helpful! 😊
That is awesome! I'm glad my video was helpful :) Enjoy the new paints!
I’m not into oil paint right now in my life, but this is fascinating.
I'm so glad you enjoyed my video! Thanks for watching :)
Awesome video!! This was seriously so educational!! New here and just subscribed and honestly cant wait to start painting!!
Thanks for the kind comment! I'm so glad you enjoyed the video and that it's inspiring you to paint :) That's awesome!
Jacksons no longer sell Vasari because they decided to stop supplying it. As a UK artist I'm very upset that we can no longer buy it here.
Also, MacGraham deserve to be mentioned. I tested them and they have excellent pigmentation
Thanks for watching! There are too many brands to mention all of them in one video but yes, I have heard great things about M Graham!
Thank you for a very informative video. I have just subscribed to your channel and I'm looking forward to viewing more of your videos. It's great when people are prepared to share their knowledge with beginners like myself so thanks again.
Thank you for the nice comment and for subscribing! I'm so glad you enjoyed my video. :)
I've taken to mixing some of my own colors then loading empty tubes. And since I'm there, I will add some linseed oil to adjust the consistency to my liking. I cant change the amount of pigment but I can at least make the paint smooth which is what I prefer :). Some of the student grades work pretty well this way. I did a painting with Michael's house brand of paint just to prove a point to a friend. Thanks for the solid info as you always do.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you enjoyed the video :)
It is also probably a good idea to mention transparency and lightfastness.
Thanks for watching! Transparency and Lightfastness are a completely different aspect of paint which has nothing to do with the brand. I discuss the permanence and properties of certain pigments in some of my other videos. :)
Invariably informative, I always learn something from every video of yours. Thank you very much!
Thanks for the kind comment and for watching! :)
You can always add filler. But you can't subtract. Once you have a grasp of your own work flow pure concentrated pigments are actually more economical. Because you don't waste time or paint.
well i am disabled and i live on a budget so yeah , i want to get great paint but not spend a lot of money like in between lol
so thanks for your time and shearing this info
Glad the video was helpful! Definitely check out Lukas 1862 oil paints (sold at Jerry's Artarama). They are very high quality and very well priced. Thanks for watching! :)
🔹I particularly appreciate the reference of Blue Ridge, was unaware of this brand.
🔺It's just logical to begin with tools and supplies, when learning to paint. But it is rare to find clear, factual, discernment on these.
... Logical must be rare ... 😉
Thanks for sharing.
I'm a new sub, thank you so much for your suggestions, expertise, etc. I'm not a new artist but put the craft down for a # of years and just picking it back up .... your tutorials are excellent, thank you!
Awesome! Thanks for the nice comment and for the sub. :) Have fun painting!
you explain everything so clearly, thank you ! I love Rembrandt oils.. I wish I could have more of them but good lord they're expensive... Totally worth it though... Thank you for your video it also has some positive energy :)
Thanks for watching and for the nice comment! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. :)
Julie Arvaniti they're not too expensive on Jerry's artarama
I didnt even know, that there is also 3rd range called premium. I though, that are only 2 types student and artists.
Same here
Thanks for your video, really helpful. You've broadened my perspective of oil brands in the market.
Awesome! Thanks for watching! :)
Great video, Jason.
Thanks for the information and I hope to check out more from you.
Thanks for watching! I'm glad you found it useful. :)
Excellent information, thank you ?
I'm glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching :)
Thank you!
you answer the questions in my mind! :D
excited on starting with oil :)
Thanks for watching!
Great info, thanks for sharing.
I'm so glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching :)
Very informative video - and many thanks for the link to Blue Ridge - this is the first I had heard of them and I've already placed an order! Thanks so much!
I'm so glad you enjoyed the video and I thank you for watching! Enjoy your Blue Ridge paint! :)
Just what i was looking for!! Love your videos walcott!!
Thanks very much for this video. I wish i had come across it weeks ago. Very practical and explains what i needed to know. I may try Blue Ridge or Gamblin.
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching :)
Art materials manufacturers put all sorts of additives in oil paint and because of corporate secrecy you can never really know what's going into your oil paints. This is despite the fact that all you need for artistic oil paint is pigment and drying oil. So buy dry pigments, cold pressed linseed oil, cold pressed walnut oil, and cold pressed poppy seed oil and make your own oil paints by dispersing the dry pigments in oil with a sheet of glass or smooth stone and a glass or smooth stone muller. The pigment to oil ratio is correct when you touch the oil paint with a palette knife and the oil paint forms stable peaks when you withdraw the palette knife up and away from the oil paint. Then you know exactly what's going into your oil paints. Your home made oil paints might be more troublesome to handle than commercial oil paints (which have uniform handling properties because of the additives), like the "stringy," thixotropic properties of ultramarine blue for example, but you will gain more skills in handling and manipulating oil paint with your home made oil paint than with commercial ready made oil paint.
Thanks for watching and for a great comment! Making their own paint isn't for everyone, but I'm sure there are folks who would enjoy the process, especially if they want paint to exacting standards.
also consider Rublev paints by Natural pigments. they are all pigment-- no filler
I've had colors change on me and I wind up painting over them. I should use "artists" or "premium" colors from now on. It's so infuriating to have an area in a painting change colors. Thanks for the info.
I'm glad you found my video helpful! Thanks for watching and enjoy the artist grade paints when you get them! :)
Cool video, greetings from an old holland factory worker
Thanks for watching! :)
the gamblin paints are very consistent. some tubes of windsor and newton are very oily while others are like clay. for someone starting i would suggest gamblin and buy a few tubes of old holland (colours like black, white, red, blue.. if you want a rarer pigment, go ahead and get the gamblin unless you're rich and it doesn't matter). if you can't afford it, i'd just get a cheap starter set or something like that, couple of those would be 60 or 70 bucks and you could get a few paintings out of them, it all depends on your disposable income but if you really enjoy painting with oil paints, grab those old holland essential colours, and then the rarer pigments- it's totally fine to buy gamblin there and save some money. my dream is to have multiple tubes of every pigment in professional grade lol.
Thanks for that great comment! I agree that Gamblin is a great brand and perfect for people that might have limitations on what they can spend. I'm not a huge fan of Old Holland (I think they're overpriced) but I do understand why people like them. Another good brand for someone starting out is Lukas 1862. Thanks for watching! :)
@@walcottfineart5088 no problem, great videos by the way. i agree they're super expensive, that's why i only use primary colours and sometimes white, i don't have any at the moment- i have been using gamblin titanium white for a while now and it's just fine. when i buy expensive tubes, i try to get paints i will use for many different paintings, not just something i will use once or twice and then it just sits there for a year unused, for those colours, i think gamblin is great because you don't have to feel bad about the price tag of a tube that you dont often use. you can be broke and paint with oils, you just have to be smart about which tubes you spend the money on!
Love all of your videos, you are an excellent artist and seem like a lovely person too.
Thanks for the comment! I'm so glad you enjoyed the videos. :)
I love your videos! They're so helpful and informative I really appreciate it :)
Thank you so much for the nice comment and for watching! :)
Great review!... I really enjoy using Gamblin's 1980 series!... I can't wait to try one of those premium brands though... I just have to figure out which one it's gonna be...
Michael harding is a great slightly less expensive premium one but has a buttery consistency rather than stiff like old holland, but generally you dont "need" premium oil paint, brands like m graham work *wonderfully* and havent got fillers, plus the walnut oil it uses has a smooth easy to use consistency. Premium oil paint is as good as homemade oil paint! Why? Cuz its pure pigment and oil, you mix to the right consistency that feels right for you with a palette knife on glass (without going way toooo oily nor toooooo pigmented) and then mill it with a muller until there isnt grain, it means the pigment and oil particles have been smashed together to a point they work together (best to keep it in a tube, jackson and others sell them for cheap and if oil separates you can just shake the tube until you see none separation)
@@bozmundarts2614 thank you for sharing your knowledge!...
Blue ridge paints is located in Asheville, NC, a very “Artsy” town of about 70,000 people.
Yes they are very nice paints! Thanks for watching :)
Thank you this is realy informative.I bought some paint and can't work with them.I tought that this is realy realy hard to work.Then I realized that thet was not high quality.So I want to buy normal brands.I am not plannig to sell my art,but I want to paint as pro in the future.What I should buy?Student grade or artist grade from start?
Glad it was helpful! I would say start with a lower priced artists grade. They are still excellent but cost effective. Try Lukas 1862, Utrecht, or the Gamblin 1980 line. Thanks for watching!
@@walcottfineart5088 Thank you so much
Glad I don't have to purchase my paints from the US, the prices compared to my local art shop - even allowing for the exchange rates - are sooo expensive I'd never afford to paint. By the way, Daler Rowney are a fairly good brand as well, both in student or artist range. Also do a really good range of artist quality acrylics if, like me , you use both oils and acrylics..
Thanks for the comment! I don't have as much experience with Daler-Rowney, but I have heard a lot of people like them.
Thanks for sharing! I use a few of these brands- I found some colors are nicer in different brands of oil paint.
Thanks for watching! I totally agree with you! Most artists use a mixture of different brands...there are a few who don't, but it's rare. :)
Great info - thank you so much for the video - well done Sir.
I'm so glad you found my video helpful! Thanks for watching :)
Hi Jason! I have worked with all the brands you mention, and agree with your findings. Lol--one difference--I think some paints ARE magic! Smearing my palette leavings on a canvas makes a beautiful abstract when the paint is Michael Harding's! I didn't spend what I did on paint until I saw it for myself--great cads can take your breath away--especially when they dominate a neutral canvas and pop SO LOUD! So I kinda disagree that a beginner should start with cheaper, earth Premiums. Harding and Williamsburg make some spectacular Naples yellows and Venetian reds, but the cadmiums (expensive as they are) will make you SOOOO happy you spent the $$$$!
Thanks for a great comment Lynnette! I do agree with and understand what you are saying although it's a hard call to make. On one hand a beginner who starts with the best materials, isn't fighting the poor quality and yet some of the premium brands can be so expensive that I'd hate for people to give up because of the cost...especially when they might feel like they are "wasting" it on bad paintings (which really isn't true when you are learning). I guess that's where I feel like mid-range paints can come to the rescue. I would always try to steer people away, if I could, from the student grades.
Great reply--you are so right. I started with Grumbacher, back in the eighties; not bad, not great. By the time I bought the expensive paint, I knew I really loved oils. But it's good to hear you agree premium paints can be superior in so many ways--richer, more fun, more reliable.
Not that you need it, but A+++.
Great video I loved the content, I paint in both acrylic and oil I do landscapes in acrylics and animals portraits in oils . But I use Daler Rowney system 3 in acrylics and Daler Rowney graduate in oils. But my have been picking up and wanted to step my game up in oils. And boy I must oils is the master paint for details. And was thinking winsnor and Newton oil paints because I have experienced yellowing in my whites
Thanks for watching! Glad you enjoyed it. :) Have fun with your oil painting!
Wow, thank you! Finally.
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Nice job on this video, I really learned a lot from your presentation. Thanks very much!!!
Excellent video, I´ll add another category, "cheap student paint", Winton is very good for what it is, I´ve seen professional artists work with it with great results, before Winton and alike we can put the true crappy cheap no one a bit serious should use. And even a fifth category, self hand made paint using top pigments, that´s like the ideal but very few will do it because it´s a chore hehehe.
Yes! There are those really, really cheap paints that aren't even worth bothering with. I'd say if you see a set of say 12 oil paint tubes, and the entire set is $5.99, RUN! LOL Also, making your own paint isn't necessarily the best at the top. Quality manufacturers like Rublev or Michael Harding can actually make paint that is better quality than what anyone could make at home. Thanks for watching! :)
@@walcottfineart5088 yes agreed on both cases, making one´s paint is really a double edged sword, you need a lot of knowledge about pigments, how they interact with each other (vermillion with lead white for example), grinding them properly (lapis lazuli for example), and how to prepare the oil, hopefully raw organic cleansed, it is a craft in itself, on the good side, if you achieve it properly, the result will be heavenly, and feels nice to have complete control over the material, you can add also other stuff like calcium carbonate or lead crystals.
Going to try blue ridge oil paints, from what you said they are worth the extra cost of importing from the US