Just a bit of advice for those who think he has solved the inspection dilemma as we all know there is a lot more than just physically inspecting a door. 1. RULE NUMBER 1 - Identify where the door has been manufactured ( There should be either labels to the top edge of the door or some paper trail/ O&M { Operations Manual } with information corresponding to the door. REASON - It will give you all the information you need on how to of installed, repair and maintain the doors you currently have. 2. RULE NUMBER 2 - Identify that the door and frame match. This can be seen by looking out for old housing marks to the frame or to the leaf to show that the door + frame were not originally installed together and at some time one or the other has been replaced or heavily repositioned. This gives you more understanding to know whether the doors can be accepted as a tested set which will correspond to RULE NUMBER 1. If it does not match and there is suspicions of the doors not matching. We now have to inspect the doors according to the approved 3rd party accreditors and other bodies who are affirmed in the industry as passive fire specialties. theoretical
That's a good question. I do know that you can have a maximum of 25 seconds close time on the door closers. An unqualified guess I would ask the fire risk assessor to highlight wheel chair related escape routes, ask maintenance to adjust the door closers to the best option and also cover wheel chair and disable needs with the fire wardens. My last place of work had fire wardens respable in assisting with wheel chair users in the event of evaluations
Hello Sanjay, thanks for your comment. The intumescent smoke strips need to be fitted to the door, or the frame - top and sides, not the bottom. The only way to fit them is to use a router to cut into the door or frame, to the depth of the strips (approx. 4mm). If you would like further information please give us a call on 0800 096 6761 and we will be able to help you further.
The brand ‘Trend’ do router bits specifically for intuminescent strip 10mm and 15mm wide, they are bearing guided to depth of 4mm and allows you to cut the groove whilst resting the router on the face of the door rather than the edge. If it’s an existing door you’re working on, you may need to remove any door furniture/hardware (handles, esctucions, etc) that might get in the way depending on how big your router base is, hope this helps :)
That's not my understanding. Georgian wired glass can have a fire rating of up to 90 minutes depending on the product, and can maintain its integrity up to 120 minutes. Can you let me know what sources your comments are based on please?
@fireline UK. Heya, just a quick question. I work in a factory in the Midlands. I'm a fire Marshall on my shift. There's an internal fire door, clearly marked which, if opened widely enough & kicked up against the wall stays open by itself. Does this make this fire door defective? My shift keeps door closed but nxt shift keeps it open. It is only a canteen door, However it's a clearly marked fire door. Thankyou
@@firelineuk3171Thankyou for replying. I did think it would make the door defective but couldn't say anything before I knew. Very helpful, thankyou once again
Should have door closer on it, and should close when opened, if stays open, needs adjusting, only suitably qualified person should carry out repair work to a fire door
I'm new to this industry, I'm currently learning about the fire doors. I belive there needs to be a rating lable on the door such as the FD30 OR FD60. With out one, you have no idea what type of door this is and no idea of the manufacturer information
Threshold? Need to mention how thick a 60 minute door is and the Threshold gap and drop seal. Also the door escutcheon and handles need to be fire rated and checked. I thought this video seemed a little too short to feature all the checks. I start from top to bottom then the frames, First i check the door transom closer see if its working well, then while I'm up there I'll look for a fire safety sticker label manufacture stamp that should normally be found at the top of the door out of sight, At same time I'll check the width of the door, then as come down I'll check the height and length and thickness to see if fits the 60 minute fire rating, Then the door leaf and glazing, Escutcheons and handles should all be fire rated, Check the check the frames for damage and smoke seals, At same time check hinges, Then I stand back let the door close and time it, If I remember rightly it was 5 seconds dead Mark, anything less was too fast and anything over 6 seconds was too long, Then I check the Threshold drop seal, You can test the drop seal either paper or a flash light, also drop seal gap should be no more then 10 mm.
Stopped watching when said over painting seal stopped them working, this is totally wrong and there is no evidence this has any effect on the intumescent seal. In fact a maximum of five coats of paint is allowed, but obviously not recommended. This is not the same however of the brush smoke seal which should never be over painted
You need a " risk based" approach to this. Many doors DO NOT NEED TO BE FIRE DOORS. This coukd become a licence to print money for dubious "inspection" organisations and those peddling non-statutory "qualifications". If a door is necessary to protect compatmentation, means of escape or higher hazard areas, it needs to be a fire door......otherwise a fire door in unnecessary. And the 2022 regs only apply to buildings comprising more than one accommodation unit......not to other types of premises. Watch out for people quoting regulations and fire disasters as justification for selling doors and systems. Question their rationale.
So true, I have a small HMO, basically 3 Bedroom house with two rooms on Ground floor, one of the room faces a garden and has a garden door for occupants to escape. the Other room faces the street and has a window that opens wide and occupant can escape via the window unless it was a disabled occupier. Then there are two more rooms on First Floor, one room facing the garden has a window that leads to a flat roof of an extended kitchen below, so the occupant of this room could if need be escape to flat roof and gradually make a way to garden by climbing down to the garden fence and so on, would not be difficult for a normal person to do so when escaping a fire. so one room facing the street may require the 30min FD30 Fire door for Fire Fighters to rescue occupier if assuming the Hallway was on Fire. All rooms have interlinked smoke detectors so a fire breaking out anywhere from Kitchen to any rooms or hallway would alert all occupiers to escape before the fire takes a full hold, so in my view many premises do not require 30Min fire doors when ordinary solid pine/timber doors could provide compartmentalisation of the smoke as long as they are fitted with self closures, Kitchen is one place that is high risk, but again I am amazed that a heat detector is specified here which will only work let us be honest when a fire has taken a big hold, so I think there are better ways to protect against kitchen fires and its earliest detection is essential, so a normal smoke detector should be fitted that has a 30 second timer to reset if should it go off due to cooking smoke, whereby it will not set off all other detectors on a interlinked circuit. So if someone was cooking and smoke from it sets off the kitchen detector, it will start sounding an alert, so the person in the kitchen can then press an easily accessible auto resettable Silence button, to stop the room detectors from tripping, the advantage here is if someone left cooking unattended and it started to burn and start to smoke , the kitchen detector would go off and if no one was in kitchen to press the silence button then all room detectors would go off alerting occupants. This way it would be easy to contain a small fire with a fire blanket or a small Fire Extinguisher, but a heat detector would need half your kitchen burned before alerting.
Very good video with plain English,thank you.
plain english? the guy can hardly speak it correctly.... he says "these is..." multiple times. really triggers me.
No gap check ?
Brilliant and informative for people who just do not know these things, and very well presented, thankyou
Thank you that was a nice refresh 👍
What about the door-frame gaps? No more than 4mm door-frame and no more than 10mm at the bottom, if it’s an uneven floor, use a drop down bar :)
Changed now
Thanks Mervyn Park & very informative for us.
Do electrical/maintience cupboards that are kept locked need a closer also?
Hi can you have smoke seal on the side and opposite side but for top it goes on the frame?
Thanks for this. I thought I needed intumescent seals on both door and frame for HMO. Just one or the other right? :)
Hi, how about fire safety for landlords - emergency lighting, alarms, extinguishers
Just a bit of advice for those who think he has solved the inspection dilemma as we all know there is a lot more than just physically inspecting a door.
1. RULE NUMBER 1 - Identify where the door has been manufactured ( There should be either labels to the top edge of the door or some paper trail/ O&M { Operations Manual } with information corresponding to the door. REASON - It will give you all the information you need on how to of installed, repair and maintain the doors you currently have.
2. RULE NUMBER 2 - Identify that the door and frame match. This can be seen by looking out for old housing marks to the frame or to the leaf to show that the door + frame were not originally installed together and at some time one or the other has been replaced or heavily repositioned. This gives you more understanding to know whether the doors can be accepted as a tested set which will correspond to RULE NUMBER 1. If it does not match and there is suspicions of the doors not matching. We now have to inspect the doors according to the approved 3rd party accreditors and other bodies who are affirmed in the industry as passive fire specialties.
theoretical
How long does it roughly take to inspect a fire door with correct paper work to match?
What about the opening and closing Neuton force gauges for a person coming through on a wheelchair?
That's a good question. I do know that you can have a maximum of 25 seconds close time on the door closers. An unqualified guess I would ask the fire risk assessor to highlight wheel chair related escape routes, ask maintenance to adjust the door closers to the best option and also cover wheel chair and disable needs with the fire wardens. My last place of work had fire wardens respable in assisting with wheel chair users in the event of evaluations
very useful thanks
Also do you have to rout the door top surface to install the smoke seal?
Hello Sanjay, thanks for your comment. The intumescent smoke strips need to be fitted to the door, or the frame - top and sides, not the bottom. The only way to fit them is to use a router to cut into the door or frame, to the depth of the strips (approx. 4mm). If you would like further information please give us a call on 0800 096 6761 and we will be able to help you further.
The brand ‘Trend’ do router bits specifically for intuminescent strip 10mm and 15mm wide, they are bearing guided to depth of 4mm and allows you to cut the groove whilst resting the router on the face of the door rather than the edge. If it’s an existing door you’re working on, you may need to remove any door furniture/hardware (handles, esctucions, etc) that might get in the way depending on how big your router base is, hope this helps :)
@@000iloveAvatar000 excellent information my friend. I need to router se fire doors at a care home & that will make things easy
Georgian wire is not counted as a fire rated glass?
That's not my understanding. Georgian wired glass can have a fire rating of up to 90 minutes depending on the product, and can maintain its integrity up to 120 minutes. Can you let me know what sources your comments are based on please?
@fireline UK. Heya, just a quick question. I work in a factory in the Midlands. I'm a fire Marshall on my shift. There's an internal fire door, clearly marked which, if opened widely enough & kicked up against the wall stays open by itself. Does this make this fire door defective? My shift keeps door closed but nxt shift keeps it open. It is only a canteen door, However it's a clearly marked fire door. Thankyou
Thanks George for your question. Yes, it sounds like the door is defective as it shouldn't be able to stay open by itself.
@@firelineuk3171Thankyou for replying. I did think it would make the door defective but couldn't say anything before I knew. Very helpful, thankyou once again
Should have door closer on it, and should close when opened, if stays open, needs adjusting, only suitably qualified person should carry out repair work to a fire door
Do your doors have rating labels? Do they have hour and air leakage ratings? Should reading the label be apart of the inspection?
I'm new to this industry, I'm currently learning about the fire doors. I belive there needs to be a rating lable on the door such as the FD30 OR FD60. With out one, you have no idea what type of door this is and no idea of the manufacturer information
Hi in loft conversion can a fire door be 75 to 74 inches long?
9 inches is enough.. that's what she said
Good info thank you 😊
I was told the internal chain closer was not acceptable
They can be used, but they must be compliant with BS EN 1154
Good that you check all around the door.... But you missed the most important thing itself. The quality of the door if it's fire resistant.
Threshold? Need to mention how thick a 60 minute door is and the Threshold gap and drop seal.
Also the door escutcheon and handles need to be fire rated and checked.
I thought this video seemed a little too short to feature all the checks.
I start from top to bottom then the frames,
First i check the door transom closer see if its working well, then while I'm up there I'll look for a fire safety sticker label manufacture stamp that should normally be found at the top of the door out of sight,
At same time I'll check the width of the door, then as come down I'll check the height and length and thickness to see if fits the 60 minute fire rating,
Then the door leaf and glazing,
Escutcheons and handles should all be fire rated,
Check the check the frames for damage and smoke seals,
At same time check hinges,
Then I stand back let the door close and time it, If I remember rightly it was 5 seconds dead Mark, anything less was too fast and anything over 6 seconds was too long,
Then I check the Threshold drop seal,
You can test the drop seal either paper or a flash light, also drop seal gap should be no more then 10 mm.
4mm gap top and sides max 8mm bottom
2 to 4mm is correct gap
You can not have chain on fire doors mate, British fire doors are joke from design to finish product.
Stopped watching when said over painting seal stopped them working, this is totally wrong and there is no evidence this has any effect on the intumescent seal. In fact a maximum of five coats of paint is allowed, but obviously not recommended. This is not the same however of the brush smoke seal which should never be over painted
Ohhh ahhhh
Not to accurate is it?... gaps around the leaf, gap at the threshold, firestopping around the frame....
Could you do some memes please
You need a " risk based" approach to this. Many doors DO NOT NEED TO BE FIRE DOORS.
This coukd become a licence to print money for dubious "inspection" organisations and those peddling non-statutory "qualifications".
If a door is necessary to protect compatmentation, means of escape or higher hazard areas, it needs to be a fire door......otherwise a fire door in unnecessary.
And the 2022 regs only apply to buildings comprising more than one accommodation unit......not to other types of premises.
Watch out for people quoting regulations and fire disasters as justification for selling doors and systems. Question their rationale.
So true, I have a small HMO, basically 3 Bedroom house with two rooms on Ground floor, one of the room faces a garden and has a garden door for occupants to escape. the Other room faces the street and has a window that opens wide and occupant can escape via the window unless it was a disabled occupier. Then there are two more rooms on First Floor, one room facing the garden has a window that leads to a flat roof of an extended kitchen below, so the occupant of this room could if need be escape to flat roof and gradually make a way to garden by climbing down to the garden fence and so on, would not be difficult for a normal person to do so when escaping a fire. so one room facing the street may require the 30min FD30 Fire door for Fire Fighters to rescue occupier if assuming the Hallway was on Fire. All rooms have interlinked smoke detectors so a fire breaking out anywhere from Kitchen to any rooms or hallway would alert all occupiers to escape before the fire takes a full hold, so in my view many premises do not require 30Min fire doors when ordinary solid pine/timber doors could provide compartmentalisation of the smoke as long as they are fitted with self closures, Kitchen is one place that is high risk, but again I am amazed that a heat detector is specified here which will only work let us be honest when a fire has taken a big hold, so I think there are better ways to protect against kitchen fires and its earliest detection is essential, so a normal smoke detector should be fitted that has a 30 second timer to reset if should it go off due to cooking smoke, whereby it will not set off all other detectors on a interlinked circuit. So if someone was cooking and smoke from it sets off the kitchen detector, it will start sounding an alert, so the person in the kitchen can then press an easily accessible auto resettable Silence button, to stop the room detectors from tripping, the advantage here is if someone left cooking unattended and it started to burn and start to smoke , the kitchen detector would go off and if no one was in kitchen to press the silence button then all room detectors would go off alerting occupants. This way it would be easy to contain a small fire with a fire blanket or a small Fire Extinguisher, but a heat detector would need half your kitchen burned before alerting.
Was that a joke vid
BS fire rated hinges only
Not true it's about the melting point
@@magichobson7620 far as I was aware they all needed to be fire rated.
Slightly off-track, but is the lady in the video single ?
slightly?
No point in having a firedoor with glass panels.
Not true most fire doors have glass panels, called viewing panel there for a reason