Training and Pruning Apple Trees - Central Leader or Open Center? | Pruning Fruit Trees
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- Опубліковано 3 сер 2019
- Pruning and Training an Apple Tree in the best shape for our Home Orchard.The 2 most used training systems are covered in depth, showing Pros and Cons of each one, with full examples from pruning to fruit production.
Training a young tree correctly from the beginning can be crucial for its development and production and since I got asked this question a lot, here's a video about what i think are the best training systems for Apple (and Pear) Trees in our home orchards.
Table of Contents:
1. Choosing the shape - Comparing training systems in Commercial and in Home Orchards - 0:50
2. Possible Problems of each training system - 4:18
3. Solutions - Choosing the right rootstock, stacking and supporting - 5:42
4. Which shape (training system) is best for our Home Orchard - 7:09
5. Pruning:
5a. Pruning for a Modified Central Leader - 8:33
5b. Pruning for Open Center or Vase - 9:52
Check the video on “Basic Pruning Techniques” to know more about the pruning terms and techniques used - • Pruning Fruit Trees | ... - Pruning Fruit Trees | Pruning Techniques | Essential Pruning Course
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• Grafting Fruit Trees |... - Grafting Fruit Trees | Changing varieties in old Pear Trees | Bark Grafting
• Grafting Fruit Trees |... - Grafting Fruit Trees | The best grafting techniques for Apples, Pears and other fruit trees
• Grafting Fruit Trees |... - Grafting Fruit Trees | Summer Budding of Plums, Peaches, Apricots, Kiwis and other fruit trees
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I got asked this question a lot, so here's a video about what i think are the best training systems for Apple (and Pear) Trees in our home orchards.
Table of Contents:
1. Choosing the shape - Comparing training systems in Commercial and in Home Orchards - 0:50
2. Possible Problems of each training system - 4:18
3. Solutions - Choosing the right rootstock, stacking and supporting - 5:42
4. Which shape (training system) is best for our Home Orchard - 7:09
5. Pruning:
5a. Pruning for a Modified Central Leader - 8:33
5b. Pruning for Open Center or Vase - 9:52
My favorite fruit tree pruning videos.
Great info.Thats exactly what i needed to know for my new planted fruit trees.👍
Great message to farmer's🎉
Very Informative .Respect from India .
always learn something new.
Great tips, 👍thanks for sharing 👍👍
Great information sir. Thank you.
Thanks for the reminder about all the dwarfing rootstocks needing supplemental support (and most semi dwarf, too). I have room for probably 2-3 trees in the yard and will probably end up going with one of the more vigorous rootstocks that doesn't need support (G890, M109, M111 etc). I want to keep the trees to maybe... 8-10' tall, so I think G890 might be a really good choice. Will probably graft a few more varieties on to ensure good pollination and wider ripening times. Your videos have been really helpful!
Hi, Nate. I have some trees in MM106. In my experience this rootstock has a good enough root system to support itself with no need for additional support. G890, which is identical in size, might do the trick for you, and it will be easier to maintain the tree at your desired height.
Very simple and very good knowlwdge given by you thnkuu so mch
great video , thank you
Thank you!
Ora pois.
Muito bom vídeo. Parabéns.
Splendid👍
Good sir....I appreciate your work.i am abig fan of u.
Than you !
No more tree support to us we dont want to support our apple trees sir. Thanks for your cente shape which yu highlighted. 🙏
Awesome
Muito obrigado pelo video conteudo maravilhoso ,otimo muito bom !
Obrigado, Lucileide.
Mr. Sacadura, do you ever use a dwarf interstem (e.g. M9 or Bud-9) on a semi-dwarf rootstock (eg MM111)? Can you avoid staking using this method? And how closely can you space such trees, assuming a modified-central-leader training system? Thank you!
Great video, many thanks. I have three young apple trees, your sharing is much appreciated.
I recently planted a quince, so you have any of these and would consider a video with pruning recommendations for these? Or would you generally advise a similar approach to what you do for apples?
Thanks again.
Hi, Nathan. My quince trees are all pruned in the Open Center training system (i will try to shown them in a future video with a tour of my orchard). You can apply the same principles i show in the video for Apples, pruned with that method. For more information, check the first video i did on pruning, where the Open Center is also shown - video link - ua-cam.com/video/buziSuLiUhY/v-deo.html - from min. 6:29 - 4) Open center formative pruning
after working on orchards for 45 plus years i have found the only way to prune is the boss's way it's allways right
You are so right :-) If you put 3 pruners together and 3 identical trees to prune, you will get 3 completely different trees when they are done.
In the end, each grower has to adapt the basic techniques to his requirements. My only objective is showing other home growers like me, that they don't have to be afraid of pruning their trees. After all, in the long run, a bad pruning job is always better for the trees, that no pruning at all. Thanks for your comment.
Great as always! Can you maybe explain in another video (or maybe you did already) why and how to shape fruit trees like Paul Gautschi of Back to Eden Gardening does on his property? In his videos you can see apple trees I guess with open centre and all the main branches grow downwards. Would be very interesting to learn this method and what you think about it. Thanks!
I know you did not ask me, but I'll chime in anyway. It looks like those umbrella-shaped trees were developed by just favoring the downward pointing branches. Of course in the video of his I saw, the take-off point for the scaffolds was set fairly high to begin with, so if you have a central-leader tree now, maybe just start pruning away the lower scaffolds, then over time work towards taking out the central leader as well. Don't try to do this all in one year though.
Then allow the scaffold branches to put out end-shoots and keep them long enough to droop with the weight of fruit. If the tree has a strong up-right tendency, then this might be difficult. You may need to use some light cotton rope and stakes in the ground to force some branches downward.
I have a golden delicious that I am training this way. All the main scaffolds take off around the five foot mark and I keep cutting back all the vertical shoots. I also have a plum that I trained this way.
Just got done watching one of those by pennstate. ⬆️ is right. You bend the branch to a vertical positioning and as it grows it will keep this.position on its own. You need to shape your tree in a triangle shape. They also claim that gives the tree the most.light as possible.
Viva JSacadura, antes de mais quero agradecer o fantástico trabalho que faz em disponibilizar estes conteúdos gratuitamente para o mundo, tenho aprendido imenso com os seus vídeos.uma facilidade que tenho encontrado nas minhas experiências de pomar, à dispensabilidade de pau tutor, é recorrendo á enxertia intermédia, na qual enxerto um porta-enxertos MM106 num M9, e a variedade que quero enxertar no MM106. Formando assim uma raiz forte numa árvore anã. Fica a sugestão, se ainda não tiver pensado nisso. Mais uma vez obrigado pelo excelente trabalho.
Obrigado pelo comentário e pela sugestão, André. Já pensei na enxertia intermédia, apesar de não a ter ainda posto em prática (embora ao mudar a variedade coexistam porta-enxerto, variedade antiga e depois a nova). No meu caso, os porta-enxertos pouco vigorosos, como o M9, não se adaptam ao meu terreno (demasiado argiloso) pois têm um sistema radicular muito fraco. Nem os M26 crescem como deve ser. Tenho que recorrer aos M7 e os MM106 que, apesar de mais vigorosos, acabam por produzir árvores pequenas nestas condições, pelo que não tenho sentido necessidade de recorrer ao enxerto intermédio.
Great video! Something caught my attention right at the end - "Summer pruning". My apple trees have vigorous vertical growing as you mentioned. So is it wise to do soma pruning?
Hi, Carlos. You can control the growth of most fruit trees by summer pruning. That way you can redirect the growth energy to new branches, and shape the tree like you want, instead of letting too vigorous branches take over and grow uncontrolled. That will slow the forming of the tree and its a poor use of the tree's resources, if those branches are only cut in the winter. Check this video - ua-cam.com/video/ecOwdmi6DIM/v-deo.html - were I summer prune a few grafts. The principles are the same.
I dont recommend pruning on somas. Lol
I'm new on the enviroment of the apple cultivation. I have 1 thousand trees Geneva rootstocks ( we called here in Mexico that way, geneva)
I am surprised with the results with the development of the trees this year.
I would like to know in the where you live exists this variety of trees
I would appreciate if you have a contact of someone to buy some
Muito obrigada... um video inteiro a responder à minha questão :-). Gostava de deixar as minhas macieiras na forma mais natural possível mas, algumas Porta da Loja vieram com a vareta simples demasiado alta (mais de 2m). Entretanto cresceram imenso em altura mas nada de pernadas. Aconselha a cortar a haste principal agora em Agosto ou espero pelo Inverno? Mais uma vez, obrigada
A sua questão veio relembrar a necessidade de fazer um video sobre o tema :-) É uma pergunta recorrente. O problema de não decapitar as macieiras jovens, quando se plantam, é que o meristema apical tende a inibir o desenvolvimento de ramos inferiores (e os poucos que se desenvolvem aparecem, normalmente, muito altos). Pode decapitar agora no Verão (desde que não venham previsões de temperaturas muito altas), embora o ideal seja a Primavera ou logo no início do Outono (se se plantaram nessa altura). Normalmente, a planta reage com o rebentamento de gemas inferiores ao corte, que estavam a adormecidas, o que permite ganhar algum tempo na formação da árvore.
@@JSacadura mais uma vez, obrigada. É mesmo por causa da dominância apical que hesito em cortar a haste principal com medo que os ramos adormecidos acordem e todos queiram dominar. Mas se não vou usar o "eixo central revestido" então não faz diferença. E se algum dos ramos se destacar então talvez possa manter essa forma que me parece ser melhor para as Porta da Loja. Não tive esse problema em mais nenhuma variedade.
" hesito em cortar a haste principal com medo que os ramos adormecidos acordem e todos queiram dominar." Quando existem vários ramos em competição não é muito provável que isso aconteça, pois o vigor da árvore é distribuído por todos os ramos em crescimento. Quando algum se destaca demasiado, se isso não for desejável (e nalguns casos, como o que refere, pode ser) é uma questão de lhe controlar o vigor, cortando-o mais baixo, perto de um ramito lateral fraco.
What tree spacing do you use for MM106 trees? I am curious what is the maximum density for un-staked MM106 trees using modified central leader. Thank you sir!
I have roughly 2,5 meters ( a bit over 8 feet) between my MM106 apple trees, but I have them in a dense clay soil, so they don't grow very much and the roots don't interfere with each other. MM 106, depending on the grafted variety will usually need 11 to 14 feet of spacing when using the central leader system. If the soil was different I would probably had to select a different, dwarfing rootstock, with a weaker root system to use the same spacing (and they would definitively need staking or other kind of support system)
What's the best season for pruning?
hi, where did you buy your apple 🍎 rootstock??
at 4 minutes 55 seconds, what type of root stocks? Thanks. Great video......
Thanks, Tess. That tree is grafted on an M7 rootstock. Some of the others are in M9. The ones that don't need support are in MM106. The soil is mostly clay and it can get quite 'soft' when wet (which causes the need for support with weaker rootstocks or the tree as a tendency to tip over with the fruit load, if I don't use Open Center)
4 dislikes????? ..... you got to be certified insane to dislike this.
bluemarlin2004. . . how do check the 4 dislikes
Hola. New to your channel. I Enjoy your videos. I bought two dwarf apple trees. I live in zone 7a. When is a good time to do winter pruning?
Hi, Jennifer. Thanks for the support. If, in your area, the trees have a tendency to be damaged by cold weather, i would wait until the end of winter to prune, just before the trees are beginning to break bud. That way winter damaged tips can be removed with no fear of further damage.
JSacadura Thank you very much!
Is that possible to vase prune poplar tree?
Sir, (In India) my new Apple plants suffering from "chlorotic leaf spot virus".
Is there any solution ?
Unfortunately, there is no simple solution to that problem. You probably will have to remove the tree and replace it by a virus free cultivar. Beware of transmitting the virus to other trees. Always disinfect your pruning and cutting tools
Hi, can you tell if is it good to train m7 rootstock in open vase shape or in central leader system. In my place it snows about 1meters in height in winter and the soil is heavy clay weight soil.
I always say this to my readers: "When you are walking and working in a rhythmic leadership mode, you have clearer thinking and a sharpened mindset that ignites your purpose, passion, and priorities."
boa noite JAIME...os seus videos cativam...você não vai editar videos próximos, acerca das caldas químicas para as árvores de fruto? JAIME um abraço..
Olá, Albano. Além da Calda Bordalesa que aplico no final do Inverno, tento evitar ao máximo utilizar químicos no meu Pomar, ainda para mais agora, com as colmeias que consegui. Perde-se muita fruta, mas o que se come é saudável. Só mesmo quando as árvores estão em risco é que aplico fitosanitários. Este ano ainda só apliquei um inseticida, logo após a floração, para tentar reduzir um pouco alguns dos problemas com a borboleta do Bichado. O ano passado, não apliquei nenhum produto na Primavera e no Verão e, no final da época, não havia uma maçã que não tivesse bicho, o que impede o seu armazenamento prolongado. Em Junho/Julho, devia ter aplicado uma segunda vez, para conseguir um melhor controlo e não acabei por não o fazer. Agora começa já a ser um pouco tarde pois muitas frutas vão começar a estar boas para colher dentro de pouco tempo (excepto para as maçãs mais tardias), por isso, este ano, é pouco provável que aborde esse tema.
@@JSacadura jaime o meu pensamento também é esse ..nada de quimicos,mesmo agora que ando com umas ideias de PERMACULTURA que ando a aprender com um doido norte americano do wisconsin.mas repare tambem pus bordalese em dezembro e outra em março.as macieiras estão uma lastima,principalmente as royal gala.Muito obrigado pelos conselhos úteis.abraço...
hello I
In this vidéo we see small apple tree .. can you indicate the rootstock for these trees .. for my small garden it's appropriate m9 ? at 3:30 and 6:50
Hi, Tony. Those smaller trees are grafted on M9. That limits the size of the tree a lot, particularly in my clay soil. In more fertile soil they might grow a bit more. Beware, that the m9 has a very weak root system, so some kind of support system for the tree is essential.
When to start planting (months)&for how long does it take to fruit
I usually plant young (one year old) fruit trees in early fall (but I have mild winters). In other areas, early spring planting might be better. Most trees will take between 3 to 5 years to produce fruits regularly, depending on fruit type and rootstock used.
Not sure if this has already been answered somewhere else, but will ask anyway?
What's the benefit to the tree (fruiting, health, whatever) from pruning things so aggressively?
Clearing out branches that impede the more orderly growth of other branches, intuitively, makes sense to me, but the heavy cutting I don't understand
Maintenance pruning, as you stated, is the norm with well established and well kept trees. Nevertheless, in some cases, a more aggressive pruning might be needed, like when the trees were neglected the previous years and need to be corrected or when the variety is grafted on a vigorous rootstock and you want to keep it at a lower level. In this video, a combination of both situations made me prune a bit more aggressively than usual. I believe that his year pruning will be much more conservative.
@@JSacadura what if I don't care how big the tree gets?
As long as branches don't cross each other too much, is there really a reason to prune a tree that aggressively if you're not looking to drawf it, and would that be bad for the tree somehow?
If you don't care about maintaining the tree at a given height (i do, as i don't like to use ladders to pick my fruits) there is no reason to prune more aggressively than needed, to maintain the tree healthy. In that case, i would just remove crossing branches, dead or diseased wood, and maybe head a few longer branches, in heavy producing varieties (mainly tip bearers), so they don't break under the fruit load.
@@JSacadura Thanks for the follow-up
Great Channel! Do you have a website? Would you sell cuttings?
Hi, Olaf. I am planning something like that, but most likely, only for next year (i just don't have the time right now). Also, i am planting a new orchard and, for now, i'm using most of the scions for myself.
So is hand sanitiser good for wiping the pruners
If the alcohol content is high enough (maybe 70% or more?). I keep a small pump-spray bottle of 100% wood alcohol in my tool pouch and just give a quick spray to the blades when moving from one tree to another, or after making a cut in a branch that is clearly diseased.
Can the pruned stems be used.. like of other fruits
Yes, they can. You can use the scions that you cut in dormancy (storing them in the fridge, waiting for the spring, to graft when the weather starts to warm up) or you can use the ones you cut when summer pruninng, by bud grafting them, immediately after cutting.
I just planted four apple trees this spring. They are about four feet tall now. Do you mean I have to cut them back? Won't they just die? I live in Wisconsin USA.
If the trees were only a whip when you bought them, the apical dominance will be difficult to overcome (for the lower buds) and the tree will take a lot of time to branch and may only do it in the upper part (usually too high to train the tree). Cutting them back removes the apical dominance, allows the lower buds to grow and the branching of the tree. The best time to do it is when planting the tree (early spring), but you can also do it during the summer or fall. If you have very harsh winters and the branches usually die back a little, i would wait until the end of winter to cut them back, as the new growth will be tender and may not harden enough to withstand very low temperatures. You lose some time, but it will be the safer option for the tree.
Speaking as someone familiar with Midwestern winters (I grew up in northern Iowa) I would wait until late winter. Maybe early to mid March, just a few weeks before the trees begin actively growing.
Thank you, Alex
Or any other way to keep the height low and spread poplar tree wide?
Train your tree to grow backdown after desired height
Gostava que todos os vídeos, uma vez que são narrados em inglês, pelo menos tivessem legendas em português.
Olá, José. Todos os vídeos que publico têm legendas em Português. Se, por lapso, existir algum problema com algum, agradeço que me avisem.
Já percebi o problema. No vídeo em que comenta, o UA-cam publicou, de forma automática, uma "legenda" em Português, que é completamente inútil. Isso por vezes acontece, após a publicação dos vídeos e respetivas legendas. Não o consigo evitar. A legenda correta também está publicada, mas aparecem duas legendas em Português devido a este defeito do sistema e, se escolher a publicada automáticamente, não vai funcionar. Para o evitar, teria que estar constantemente a verificar cada vídeo, para ver se aparece essa legenda automática, o que não é viável.
Obrigada pelo contacto. Cumprimentos
Exactly where is this place?
Is in Portugal?
Which area.?
Porto, algarve, alentejo, Lisboa, serra de estrella?
In Portugal, in the center of the country, near the Ocean (Óbidos region).
@@JSacadura obrigada
Onde são estas macieiras. Será moimenta...
Estão na região de Caldas da Rainha, perto de Óbidos.
hi bro
how to dwarf your apple tree?
You have to graft the variety to a dwarfing rootstock, like one of the M9 types. You can also prune it to keep it small but its more difficult with semi-dwarfing rootstocks has they induce more vigor to the tree.
@@JSacadura M9 types is genetically modified organisms (GMO)?
No. Rootstocks are developed from natural cross-pollination of plants with different characteristics. The resulting crosses are then evaluated on different parameters (resistance to diseases, soil adaptation, final size of the tree, size of the fruit, precocity of production, etc.) The best rootstocks are then propagated asexually to maintain those characteristics. To know more, check one of the good online articles on the subject, like this one - treefruit.wsu.edu/varieties-breeding/rootstocks/
I don't think I've seen any orchards in the US with support systems. I live on the west side of Michigan which is one of the most agriculturally diverse areas in the world, but especially for tree fruits.
Hmm, Maybe not driving around enough or in the wrong areas. I too live in West Michigan (East edge of Kent County). I see trellised apple orchards frequently. Mainly used with the newer plantings. For instance, you can drive by Twin Bee orchard on 5 mile road (a bit East of Murray Lake. There you will see older trees that are fairly large and self-supporting. Then right next to those you can see new trees with the heavy duty trellis wire.
In my home orchard, I have one tree on a dwarfing root-stock that just will not stand on its' own. Whereas other trees of mine are like miniature oaks. Really stiff and can withstand the strongest winds with no problem.
PS, if you live nearby; we might consider a meet-up to trade notes. I have been working my orchard for several years but always looking to learn more.
Hello how Rootstoks
Sorry... How to obtain rootstocks? Or which one's to use? I might do a video on these subjects soon...
El Español existe
Переведите пожалуйста.
Amazing practice slute to yu
Are you greek? :p