Весьма поучительный ролик. Сколько тонкостей, казалось в простом деле, надо знать и уметь делать. Возможно я когда-нибудь решусь попробовать и сделать этот шаг. А сейчас хочу Вас поблагодарить за этот обучающий урок. С уважением из России- Анатолий.Привет.
I’m glad you are finding the videos useful. Don’t get too worried about all the little things. I am going in to a lot of detail to help you see options.
Watching you coach/instruct Bill taught me an enormous about the proper technique for laying fiberglass. Learned a lot from this episode that was shared in previous builds, but this time with more examples of how to correct areas that need attention. Hang in there Bill, your learning is helping us what to do and what not to do. Thanks for sharing.
It has been helpful for me to have Bill be there. I can see what he has trouble with and that allows me to adjust my next video to help address those areas.
Just wanted to add my 3 cents here: - In your "small parts" video you mention to practice on small parts first. It wasn't mentioned in this video so just wanted to add it here as that is a great idea. - You mention the roller method briefly but I just wanted to emphasize that as a complete novice I preferred applying epoxy with a roller. I messed up with the squeegee method as it's a skill to move epoxy around and to remove excess epoxy, especially around the epoxy timings. With the roller you've got more control on the amount of epoxy you put on a certain area and its a great tool to move the cloth where you want it. Now that I understand epoxy timings better I might try the squeegee method. - If you work in a shed I can recommend taking your wood inside the house for a week or so. My wood had quite a high moisture content and even though I had the temperature going down in the shed in the curing stage, I still ended up with bubbles (Arggg). Second time round I popped the wood inside for a week next to the dehumidifier and I had no issues.
Thank you very much for the really nice video series. It's great fun to watch the construction of the boat. The explanations are presented so precisely, thank you for these insights. I've seen a lot of videos with the topic of canoe building and in most of them laminating with fiberglass looked so easy - but now I know that there are a few things to consider. Thank you again, I look forward to the further videos.👍👌😁
The shiny spots must have floating glass that's why you want to see dull. Dull means the glass is not floating and it's direct contact with the wood. Direct contact with the wood means you can fare the surface by sanding without cutting into the fiberglass. If it were floating off the surface of the wood you might cut into that fiberglass taking away all the strength.
Great videos Nick and Bill....Bill been there and done that g, I too got excited getting out the BUBBLES in my first build. Keep going, Nick is a awesom teacher. Nick why didnt you wet out the glass for the bow and stern V's before laying up...is it due to this video being a tutorial? Additionally are you going to produce a CD/Blu ray for this series of S&G?
Once the glass has epoxy on it, it is very sticky and hard to deal with. I prefer laying it in dry then wetting it out in place. I don't currently have plans to do a Blu-ray or DVD of this series, but it is something I should think about.
This is so helpful. I am about to glass my micro bootlegger sport and have been very apprehensive about the process. Good to hear the concerns of a beginner - like me
I am on the preparation for my 3rd kayak building. Q1. 2nd or third coats of epoxy are needed inside? sanding inside? Q2. Sheer cramps and bulkheads can be attached on the surface of an epoxy-fiber coated area?
I often apply a second coat of epoxy on the interior while the fiberglass coat is still green. This allows me to sand the interior lightly before applying varnish to protect the interior from UV and oxidation over time. It is not required, but I like to do it. Any sheer clamps or bulkheads can be installed over the fiberglassed surface. You want prep the surfaces where you glue them by sanding and cleaning.
Thanks for your reply. You had already mentioned these issues a little in the last part of the video. I will continue watching your video as well as the previous series. I am planning to start building 3rd one in March. @@NickSchade
Nick and Bill: Awesome work on the boat! Fantastic instruction along the way. I noticed some light coming through the bow keel. Will you address this later or will the glass and epoxy be sufficient when finished? Thanks for the series. It makes me more confident that I can attempt to build one of these. Cheers!
@@NickSchade Thanks a lot for the reply! Nick, I am very grateful to you!!! I learned a lot of nuances and techniques! For example: a dispenser system, temporary gluing with glue with an activator, a pastry bag and more. I'm building a second boat, but thanks to you, the construction is moving faster, the process is cleaner, well, I just get more pleasure)))) Thank you again!!!
This is a great video series, made all the more valuable by Bill's participation as a boatbuilding novice. I am surprised, however, that there is no mention of wearing a respirator mask when working with epoxy. I understand that this would make filming in this way almost impossible. Nevertheless, a reference to the potential danger of repeated exposure to the vapors would be advisable.
It is a bit to handle to talk to the video, talk to Bill and get the job done. I would normally be wearing a respirator, but talking is hard wearing one, and I just was so involved with everything else that I did not get around to mentioning it.
Everyone develops their own technic. I prefer the Cigar type rollers, 4 or 6", for application . I don't over saturate the cloth, and so I don't need to squeegee the excess. Just my method ! Thanks Nick for your great videos !
I usually do the dump-and-spread method shown here because it can go very quickly, but for some folks it may end up being slower. I may have Bill try the roller method on the deck.
You really can't teach fiberglassing. you learned by making mistakes they have to learn by making mistakes. I can tell that you've done so many boats you could do this in your sleep. So when you see somebody struggling that's because it used to be a struggle. If you're struggling you're doing it wrong.
The stitch and glue method, shows there is no need for an Inner stem. The cloth, and fillet is all that is needed. This works fine with canoes also. Thanks again Nick !
Each day of working on the boat I get about 5 hours of video. It generally takes me a couple days to edit each hour of captured video. Releasing videos once a week gives me enough time to do the editing.
Весьма поучительный ролик. Сколько тонкостей, казалось в простом деле, надо знать и уметь делать. Возможно я когда-нибудь решусь попробовать и сделать этот шаг. А сейчас хочу Вас поблагодарить за этот обучающий урок. С уважением из России- Анатолий.Привет.
I’m glad you are finding the videos useful. Don’t get too worried about all the little things. I am going in to a lot of detail to help you see options.
Watching you coach/instruct Bill taught me an enormous about the proper technique for laying fiberglass. Learned a lot from this episode that was shared in previous builds, but this time with more examples of how to correct areas that need attention. Hang in there Bill, your learning is helping us what to do and what not to do. Thanks for sharing.
It has been helpful for me to have Bill be there. I can see what he has trouble with and that allows me to adjust my next video to help address those areas.
Excellent as usual!!!
Just wanted to add my 3 cents here:
- In your "small parts" video you mention to practice on small parts first. It wasn't mentioned in this video so just wanted to add it here as that is a great idea.
- You mention the roller method briefly but I just wanted to emphasize that as a complete novice I preferred applying epoxy with a roller. I messed up with the squeegee method as it's a skill to move epoxy around and to remove excess epoxy, especially around the epoxy timings. With the roller you've got more control on the amount of epoxy you put on a certain area and its a great tool to move the cloth where you want it. Now that I understand epoxy timings better I might try the squeegee method.
- If you work in a shed I can recommend taking your wood inside the house for a week or so. My wood had quite a high moisture content and even though I had the temperature going down in the shed in the curing stage, I still ended up with bubbles (Arggg). Second time round I popped the wood inside for a week next to the dehumidifier and I had no issues.
I like the squeegee method for several reasons, but the roller may be easier to learn.
Thank you very much for the really nice video series. It's great fun to watch the construction of the boat. The explanations are presented so precisely, thank you for these insights. I've seen a lot of videos with the topic of canoe building and in most of them laminating with fiberglass looked so easy - but now I know that there are a few things to consider.
Thank you again, I look forward to the further videos.👍👌😁
The shiny spots must have floating glass that's why you want to see dull. Dull means the glass is not floating and it's direct contact with the wood. Direct contact with the wood means you can fare the surface by sanding without cutting into the fiberglass. If it were floating off the surface of the wood you might cut into that fiberglass taking away all the strength.
Great tutorial! What cloth weight are you using? Is twill weave better? It conforms easier to more complex shapes I think!
4-ounce e-glass, plain weave
Great videos Nick and Bill....Bill been there and done that g, I too got excited getting out the BUBBLES in my first build. Keep going, Nick is a awesom teacher. Nick why didnt you wet out the glass for the bow and stern V's before laying up...is it due to this video being a tutorial? Additionally are you going to produce a CD/Blu ray for this series of S&G?
Once the glass has epoxy on it, it is very sticky and hard to deal with. I prefer laying it in dry then wetting it out in place. I don't currently have plans to do a Blu-ray or DVD of this series, but it is something I should think about.
This is so helpful. I am about to glass my micro bootlegger sport and have been very apprehensive about the process. Good to hear the concerns of a beginner - like me
Glad it helped!
I am on the preparation for my 3rd kayak building.
Q1. 2nd or third coats of epoxy are needed inside? sanding inside?
Q2. Sheer cramps and bulkheads can be attached on the surface of an epoxy-fiber coated area?
I often apply a second coat of epoxy on the interior while the fiberglass coat is still green. This allows me to sand the interior lightly before applying varnish to protect the interior from UV and oxidation over time. It is not required, but I like to do it.
Any sheer clamps or bulkheads can be installed over the fiberglassed surface. You want prep the surfaces where you glue them by sanding and cleaning.
Thanks for your reply. You had already mentioned these issues a little in the last part of the video. I will continue watching your video as well as the previous series. I am planning to start building 3rd one in March. @@NickSchade
Brings back memories of chasing all those bridges and wrinkles out. Forgot about that. I wish I had known then what Nick was teaching here.
Nick and Bill: Awesome work on the boat! Fantastic instruction along the way. I noticed some light coming through the bow keel. Will you address this later or will the glass and epoxy be sufficient when finished? Thanks for the series. It makes me more confident that I can attempt to build one of these. Cheers!
Nick, what is the density of fiberglass? I'm sorry, but I don't know English very well. Maybe I didn't hear it
We are using 4-ounces/square yard which is about 120 g/square meter
@@NickSchade Thanks a lot for the reply! Nick, I am very grateful to you!!! I learned a lot of nuances and techniques! For example: a dispenser system, temporary gluing with glue with an activator, a pastry bag and more. I'm building a second boat, but thanks to you, the construction is moving faster, the process is cleaner, well, I just get more pleasure)))) Thank you again!!!
@@ЕвгенийПономарев-м4ф I am glad the videos are helping
This is a great video series, made all the more valuable by Bill's participation as a boatbuilding novice.
I am surprised, however, that there is no mention of wearing a respirator mask when working with epoxy. I understand that this would make filming in this way almost impossible. Nevertheless, a reference to the potential danger of repeated exposure to the vapors would be advisable.
It is a bit to handle to talk to the video, talk to Bill and get the job done. I would normally be wearing a respirator, but talking is hard wearing one, and I just was so involved with everything else that I did not get around to mentioning it.
We all learn somefhing from every video. Thanks.
Everyone develops their own technic. I prefer the Cigar type rollers, 4 or 6", for application . I don't over saturate the cloth, and so I don't need to squeegee the excess. Just my method ! Thanks Nick for your great videos !
I usually do the dump-and-spread method shown here because it can go very quickly, but for some folks it may end up being slower. I may have Bill try the roller method on the deck.
You really can't teach fiberglassing. you learned by making mistakes they have to learn by making mistakes. I can tell that you've done so many boats you could do this in your sleep. So when you see somebody struggling that's because it used to be a struggle. If you're struggling you're doing it wrong.
The stitch and glue method, shows there is no need for an Inner stem. The cloth, and fillet is all that is needed. This works fine with canoes also. Thanks again Nick !
The interior fillet serves as the inner stem. I have occasionally added an outer stem because it can look good.
Great tutorial! What cloth weight are you using? Is twill weave better? It conforms easier on more compex surfaces I think!
Plain weave works fine for this task
Can you share videos faster?
Each day of working on the boat I get about 5 hours of video. It generally takes me a couple days to edit each hour of captured video. Releasing videos once a week gives me enough time to do the editing.