This video helped me with my first sealer job. Unfortunately, I was recommended the wrong type of sealer. I tried sealing a stamped and stained concrete patio with Silacast. Unfortunately, Silacast is a water-based penetrating sealer, and I should have used a non-penetrating acrylic sealer. Essentially, I should have treated the patio like tile. Now I get to re-strip and seal the patio. Hopefully, this saves someone reading this a few hundred dollars. Lesson learned.
I am a painter so when I saw you didn't tape the wall at the ground at the front door I new what was going to happen. I bet next time you will be very extensive with the taping it was a learning moment and we all have those thanks for including it in the vid. btw the driveway came out great. I am in the process of starting a washing business and vids like this are educational for me. Also I just cleaned my pavers and will be sealing them just waiting for the parts I ordered to build the 5gal sprayer lid TY for that guide/parts list too, very helpful.
I used a waterbase sealer on dry pressure washed one year old exposed aggregate. Now, the result after 3 coats, sprayed and rolled at 24°C . Was supposed to be be wet look finnish and end up shiny drylook finnish. Is just the fact i did not hatched the concrete could have done that? Now, how should I strips all those waterbase layers of sealer after 2 months and be able to hatch the exposed aggregate concrete driveway? Since it is not solvent base and can't use xylene, acetone etc... how to remove the waterbase cured material from the surface? I guess since it looks like a shiny dry film on surface, it never penetrate at first place. I have a 1600sqft driveway to redo I feel devastated and powerless in front of the task i have to manage. Please help 🤕
What would be a good way to clean organic stains and or tire marks from a driveway with out having to blastout and reinstall sand? As example I've already gone through and cleaned a customers driveway and resend, they reqest the driveway to be sealed later in the season. When I returned the driveway has organic stains and tire marks. What would be the best way to remove this without damaging my already completed work?
Great question! Do a SH treatment with a low pressure rinse. We do this all the time for maintenance washes on our seal jobs. If the tire marks aren’t coming out , try a degreaser with a scrub brush and rinse again.
Hey whatsup my man. I usually offer two coats to everyone. First is 2:1 and the final 1:1 coat. I see you said you used 3:1 for the first two coats and the 2:1 for the final coat. Do you always offer this dilution rate, for the three coat option? And as for the 2 coat option that a customer might go for, do you do the 2:1 and 1:1? Or still 3:1 and 2:1?
Hey bro! I actually screwed up my wording in this video. When I say 3:1 I meant 2:1 and when I say 2:1 I meant 1:1. So doing it just like you. As far as a third coat goes , my dilution ratio all depends on the conditions of the paver and customer. Porosity, existing material , customers expectations etc.
@@rusty.nesvig ahh gotcha. I just wanted to know in case you had a different way of doing it. Thanks for the clarification man and keep doing your thing. Those podcasts are for us trying to learn and be better🔥🔥
Does the material being stripped cause any issues with the grass or need to be gathered and removed rather than just washed down to the curb? Are there sealants that don’t need to be stripped? Of course they wouldn’t hold up as well but the stripping is ridiculous.
The actual stripping agent will kill grass. Regardless of what it says. Yes the water base / polyurethane material we use does not need to be stripped. You can re apply over it multiple times with the same material as it wears down more naturally than oil based products.
The stripper is from Deco, I’ve just had bad experiences with their other products so I won’t rave about them on YT. But , I do like their stripper. To seal, we use nothing but ICT Ure Seal H20
We are very dry and hot where I am and strippers tend to dry to fast. What ambient temperatures do you require for stripping? Does it have to stay wet for 60 min? If so how do you wet it, or do you apply more expensive stripper?
That’s a great question. In the case when it’s super hot and the material drys out fast, we work in smaller sections. If that doesn’t help , try a roll on stripper instead of a sprayable. Those can sit for longer periods of time
@@rusty.nesvig I have had the roll on (gel) dry in 30min and the stuff you use would probably dry in 15. I am going to try your blue bucket stuff but apply at 7 am now that is has cooled down. Cool video ( I got lots of questions) I am going to have to do some more research and learning. We do not do a lot of topical sealers out here, however our concrete contractors like to use a cheap cure and seal that will work with our penetrating sealers. Almost makes the service impossible in Utah.
Great video! Do you neutralize them pavers after you strip? I usually use whip out… also heat king is sealer do you use? And what tip do you use for 12 volt sealer sprayer?
I’ve never neutralized after stripping. Just rinse it down 2-3 times but I’ll definitely check out your recommendation on the neutralizer. Do you notice a difference with using it? Tip is a 4006
@@rusty.nesvig thanks! Honestly bro that’s just how I was taught so I don’t know if there is a difference lol. I went to the trident and ureseal training classes so Sometimes they are just selling you more products to use
What is the type of stripper you’re using, I’m in Canada and need to strip a project and you look like you got this figured out brother ! Great video !
No, a lot of times you can seal over. If you spray water over the stones and it looks good, you can seal over. If it’s old oil or xylene material and has bad white haze, it needs to be stripped.
New to the channel. You do some great work! I'm down in the Boynton Bch area, would you be able to recommend someone on par with yourself? I'd be great if I could hire you because your attention to detail is what's sorely missing these days. Unfortunately, I am a ways South of you :(
Great video! Taking that editing to another level
Thank you man! Trying to!
This video helped me with my first sealer job. Unfortunately, I was recommended the wrong type of sealer. I tried sealing a stamped and stained concrete patio with Silacast. Unfortunately, Silacast is a water-based penetrating sealer, and I should have used a non-penetrating acrylic sealer. Essentially, I should have treated the patio like tile. Now I get to re-strip and seal the patio. Hopefully, this saves someone reading this a few hundred dollars. Lesson learned.
Good to hear man. Thank you for sharing 🙏. My first seal job was a disaster as well.
@@rusty.nesvig Thanks, that's reassuring. Luckily, I won't lose any money on the job, but it's been quite the experience so far.
I am a painter so when I saw you didn't tape the wall at the ground at the front door I new what was going to happen. I bet next time you will be very extensive with the taping it was a learning moment and we all have those thanks for including it in the vid. btw the driveway came out great. I am in the process of starting a washing business and vids like this are educational for me. Also I just cleaned my pavers and will be sealing them just waiting for the parts I ordered to build the 5gal sprayer lid TY for that guide/parts list too, very helpful.
Super cool. Perfection!
Thank you sir !
That driveway came out AMAZING!!! What's the price tag on a job like that, with stripping sanding and sealing?
I used a waterbase sealer on dry pressure washed one year old exposed aggregate. Now, the result after 3 coats, sprayed and rolled at 24°C . Was supposed to be be wet look finnish and end up shiny drylook finnish. Is just the fact i did not hatched the concrete could have done that? Now, how should I strips all those waterbase layers of sealer after 2 months and be able to hatch the exposed aggregate concrete driveway? Since it is not solvent base and can't use xylene, acetone etc... how to remove the waterbase cured material from the surface? I guess since it looks like a shiny dry film on surface, it never penetrate at first place. I have a 1600sqft driveway to redo I feel devastated and powerless in front of the task i have to manage. Please help 🤕
Hey brother shoot me a call. 7723029621
What would be a good way to clean organic stains and or tire marks from a driveway with out having to blastout and reinstall sand? As example I've already gone through and cleaned a customers driveway and resend, they reqest the driveway to be sealed later in the season. When I returned the driveway has organic stains and tire marks. What would be the best way to remove this without damaging my already completed work?
Great question! Do a SH treatment with a low pressure rinse. We do this all the time for maintenance washes on our seal jobs. If the tire marks aren’t coming out , try a degreaser with a scrub brush and rinse again.
Looks like a real challenge and you did rise to it. Congratulations.
Hey whatsup my man. I usually offer two coats to everyone. First is 2:1 and the final 1:1 coat. I see you said you used 3:1 for the first two coats and the 2:1 for the final coat. Do you always offer this dilution rate, for the three coat option? And as for the 2 coat option that a customer might go for, do you do the 2:1 and 1:1? Or still 3:1 and 2:1?
Hey bro! I actually screwed up my wording in this video. When I say 3:1 I meant 2:1 and when I say 2:1 I meant 1:1. So doing it just like you. As far as a third coat goes , my dilution ratio all depends on the conditions of the paver and customer. Porosity, existing material , customers expectations etc.
@@rusty.nesvig ahh gotcha. I just wanted to know in case you had a different way of doing it. Thanks for the clarification man and keep doing your thing. Those podcasts are for us trying to learn and be better🔥🔥
Would love to see your process of stripping a pool deck and how you keep the pool clean and screen clean…
I don’t think I’d ever be able to film myself stripping a back pool deck due to how soaked and filthy I get.
Hey buddy quick question I have my first stripping job I was wondering how you go about charging for stripping and resealing?
You’ll want to be around 2.5-3x your price of sealing.
@@rusty.nesvig thank you boss this is gonna be really helpful I just dint wanna over charge or under charge
Looks good bro. Very informative. Did you put any new sand in? Or it didn’t need it?
Thank you brotha. Yes definitely added sand. We wet sand every project.
Does the material being stripped cause any issues with the grass or need to be gathered and removed rather than just washed down to the curb? Are there sealants that don’t need to be stripped? Of course they wouldn’t hold up as well but the stripping is ridiculous.
The actual stripping agent will kill grass. Regardless of what it says. Yes the water base / polyurethane material we use does not need to be stripped. You can re apply over it multiple times with the same material as it wears down more naturally than oil based products.
I know you didn't want to mention the brand of stripper, but what do you use to seal?
The stripper is from Deco, I’ve just had bad experiences with their other products so I won’t rave about them on YT. But , I do like their stripper. To seal, we use nothing but ICT Ure Seal H20
@Rusty's Pressure Washing Awesome! Great video.
@rusty.nesvig do you ever have any problems with that ure seal clouding up or anything else?
We are very dry and hot where I am and strippers tend to dry to fast. What ambient temperatures do you require for stripping? Does it have to stay wet for 60 min? If so how do you wet it, or do you apply more expensive stripper?
That’s a great question. In the case when it’s super hot and the material drys out fast, we work in smaller sections. If that doesn’t help , try a roll on stripper instead of a sprayable. Those can sit for longer periods of time
@@rusty.nesvig I have had the roll on (gel) dry in 30min and the stuff you use would probably dry in 15. I am going to try your blue bucket stuff but apply at 7 am now that is has cooled down. Cool video ( I got lots of questions) I am going to have to do some more research and learning. We do not do a lot of topical sealers out here, however our concrete contractors like to use a cheap cure and seal that will work with our penetrating sealers. Almost makes the service impossible in Utah.
@@rusty.nesvig Also I could not tell what kind of applicator you were using to put down your sealer. Is it a paint sprayer?
Hey man how did you learn to paver seal the correct way when first getting into it?
Talking to as many people as possible , then trial and error.
Great video! Do you neutralize them pavers after you strip? I usually use whip out… also heat king is sealer do you use? And what tip do you use for 12 volt sealer sprayer?
I’ve never neutralized after stripping. Just rinse it down 2-3 times but I’ll definitely check out your recommendation on the neutralizer. Do you notice a difference with using it?
Tip is a 4006
Or 0460? Lol
@@rusty.nesvig thanks! Honestly bro that’s just how I was taught so I don’t know if there is a difference lol. I went to the trident and ureseal training classes so Sometimes they are just selling you more products to use
Gotcha! I’ve heard of people not rinsing thoroughly enough and having to re do the job but every strip job I’ve checked up on looks just fine.
What is the type of stripper you’re using, I’m in Canada and need to strip a project and you look like you got this figured out brother ! Great video !
Quick strip from ICT! Great stuff.
Brother. Would love to learn your process
For the entire process or just stripping ?
@@rusty.nesvig entire process. We did a 8500 SF paver cleaning but it needed sanding and sealing
@@renukrewsoftwash5666 that would have been a big ass upsell! Haha.
@@renukrewsoftwash5666 if you have Instagram shoot me a message I’d love to help.
Do you always strip the pavers if they have been sealed before?
No, a lot of times you can seal over. If you spray water over the stones and it looks good, you can seal over. If it’s old oil or xylene material and has bad white haze, it needs to be stripped.
Thanks man. That helps a lot !!!
New to the channel. You do some great work! I'm down in the Boynton Bch area, would you be able to recommend someone on par with yourself? I'd be great if I could hire you because your attention to detail is what's sorely missing these days. Unfortunately, I am a ways South of you :(
I use a 4gal ryobi back pack goes quick
I’m assuming the shrubs were killed as well?
From?
can you recommend a stripper for a resin base sealer that failed
Where does dirty water go? No City ordinance on waste water removal? Curious from a carpet cleaner..
Solvent or water base?
Water based
What do you charge per sq ft to strip & seal?
Enough 😆
@@rusty.nesvig that's very helpful, thanx
How come you didn't use the 12v sprayer for the striper?
I don’t like mixing my stripper through the same pump as my sealant. Wouldn’t be a bad idea to have a second one just for stripper.
@@catchapredator1413 absolutely.
what's the average price per sqft for stripping.
In my area around $2 for stripping.
I have a brand new driveway to stain. And suggestions would be great. Thanks.
@rustyspressurewashing is that $2 sq ft just for the stripping or is that the whole price to strip and reseal
strippacast yessir!!!!!!