The roller burnishing imparts compressive residual stress in the thread. This helps alleviate a particular form of corrosion called stress corrosion cracking. Stress corrosion cracking only happens in areas that are subjected to tensile stresses in corrosive environments. Hence, reducing the tensile stress improves the corrosion performance. Threads are particularly susceptible because they usually have sharp internal corners (hence, high stress concentrations) and high tensile stresses (API threads in a drill string can hold upwards of a million pounds of tensile force). If we burnish the threads, we impart a compressive residual stress. Then, when the thread is loaded up, this compressive preload reduces the final tensile stress tensor, improving the resistance to stress corrosion cracking. Compressive residual stresses help with fatigue too, which is why shot peening is so effective on shafts, splines, gears, etc. Love the channel, Peter! Thanks for everything you're doing!
@Ethan Hunter AFAIK, trapezoidal threads still have sharp corners at the bottom - 2 of them! (Each is less sharp than a single 60 degree, though.) Also, you often don't get to change the thread, because whatever you're interfacing with is a long established standard...
Hey Peter, I found your channel a couple of months ago and have really enjoyed watching all that you put out on it. The shop I work for recently got an Integrex I 300 and your videos have been tremendously helpful in the operation of that. On the tool that you see in that machine, it is called a Cold Roll tool, it's purpose is to improve the surface finish and altar the grain structure of the root of the thread so that the threads last a bit longer. I have seen this at a previous shop I worked for where we also cut API threads, however this technique was used only on the XT threads. Never seen it done to the API style. Perhaps with the downtrend in the XT connection they've moved to doing it also on the API, or perhaps the shop I worked for didn't want to spend the extra cost. Anyway thanks for the video! Glad to see the hurricane hasn't effected shop operations.
I would have assumed the purpose of burnishing a thread would be some exacting surface finish requirement, never would have guessed stress corrosion. Thanks for yet another peek into the world of high end machining!
The burnishing locally compresses the metal surface, like shot peening, to put residual compressive stress in the surface. Roller fillets on shoulders are used to increase fatigue resistance and corrosion resistance. Excellent video, Peter. Thanks for posting it!
A thread ought to be acting like a bunch of notches, similar to the notch you put in the test material in the Charpy impact test, or how you score glass to break it. And you can drill the end of a crack to stop it from propagating... Burnishing would also reduce the surface area that a chemical can act on, slowing down the reaction.
Peter, Thank-You again for the visit in the shop, Still in the prayers of many as your area got hit so hard. It would be interesting if they would allow the camera over there during the use of that tool set-up. Your "Spirit" is uplifting as is the Texas way.
A little late to the party here but I'll add my. 02$. The paint on the roller makes it easier to see if it is rolling or not during the process and can show engagement pattern. Sometimes a roller can get hung up or have a failure that prevents it from rolling freely, damaging the work and tooling. IIRC burnishing causes plastic deformation of the surface, causing the microscopic peaks and valleys to even out, closing up the minute cracks. This action relieves surface stress, a contributing factor to SCC.
This process is used to prolong / extend the failing thread roots in drill string connections. We expermented with this a couple years ago with some large hydro forming dies. We finally just went to a heat treated thread. Here is the link to the tool if you are curious. www.coldrootrolling.com/what-is-cold-root-rolling
Nice big shop, plenty of room around the machines...I've been in a few places to do repairs...machines are so packed in, you can barely squeeze between.....and getting cabinet doors open.....forget it!
i missed out on storm damage.. but think stainless steel banding before the finish goes back on.. yep.. not cheap. but it will prevent additional separation.but also no where near as expensive as repairing a home... ring shank nails are available in most sizes.. there are various deck screws that can be used also. using a Kreg drill jig can be used also. less chance of splitting studs when toe nailing studs in. or when cross bracing between joists.. there are a lot of simpson strong tie shapes to add to repaired areas. where to put stainless steel banding. around the multiple corner posts.. above at the header .. just above the highest door or window opening as a second band.. below the window lines going around the rough in door framing.. a few vertical installs from the sill plate to the header.. or thru holes drilled thru the foundation over the header.. binding the entire house to the foundation.. over the roof holding down the sheathing and across bottom of the trusses. you may have to get creative and cut some short slots in the sheathing to hold it down without bowing the eves down. enclosing the eves to prevent wind from building up under them and lifting the roof off. you know what your home shape is.. and where possible banding can be installed.. don't forget to band the interior safety rooms.. and childrens bedroom walls and ceiling if possible
Welp, it looks like you survived the storm, which I am glad to see. As per the thread burnishing, I wonder..... In my old "Eighth Addition Hand Book from 1945" LOL.. I remember seeing the side views of some plumbing threads, (yes, your stuff looks like oil pipeline drilling stuff) but, the book was saying the having a radius in the female thread's minor and the sharper pointed major on the threads of the male side, will completely lock and seal 100% for extremely high pressure... while saying something about do not plan on undoing that union with out damage or being able to count on a 100% seal as it is one time only on the sealing factor. As the sharp point gets deformed of the male end and is formed to the shape of the radius of the female side's radius minor... It did discuss that it can be done on both minors of both ends of the male & female sides, but typically not required to do both and one side by precise design cuts the mustard.. .Please note, I do not know if this is the same theory's being used here...as 70 to 80 years, allot has changed, LOL.. Of course, the next few pages goes into light duty pipe thread design and theory.. I will have to look back at the book again, but the one time sealing action.. is done at fast speed and once stopped, it is locked into one another, I thought to my self, while not knowing the alloys with in the metals that would allow for this, but, maybe on a micron scale that the metals being deforms to match one another are being melted together?.. kinda like a video on You tube I once seen, for spin welding or friction welding, just on a micronic scale? Just an idea, and am very likely wrong on so many levels. It is neat to see that forming tool. I also realize, the roller forming tools likely work hardens the minor area of the thread of the female side too, maybe to prevent the stress fractures, like you stated, but, maybe to force the major part of the thread of the male side to form and not the female side?.. .Some how, your videos always get me thinking about stuff, even if I am wrong, LOL.. I thank you for the inspiration. I showed the air footage of the flood damage to the area where you live to several folks, They have all wished you and your friends and family a quick recovery to getting back to a normal living situation. Dru
The OD threads don’t need the burnishing because it’s supported by the other part it’s threaded into when assembled...? I don’t know if that correct thou but makes sense to me. The ID thread (female) doesn’t have the support from internal force pushing outward. (Please let me know if that’s correct or not.)
Hope the guy who ran the beryllium copper parts knows of the risks involved. Berylliosis is almost always fatal. Parts like that will oxidize over a time and have beryllium contamination 100 times allowable levels. He should have a full respirator if any grinding is done.
I've never seen the ID style before but I've use an OD roller a tonne on a manual lathe back in my working for someone else days. One of the few tasks that a manual lathe is better for, the setup is super easy as its was just a pinch style with a power pack. Just engage the half nut roll up to the start of the thread, turn on the pump, get your pressure set, run up the thread, turn the pump off and the spring opens the jaws up, easy! The shop foreman said it was for some sort of pre stressing of the thread root to prevent cracking but that may just be hog wash but a quick google search seams to agree with that. That looks like a huge pain in the rear to get setup and running though. Be really cool to see a video of that running, is there room to get the gopro in there with a clear view of the action or are the running it with coolant?
Very cool content, I love it! Is it possible for you to do a show down of the tools and equipment, very interested to see what's to get and what's not really worth it. Thank you!
This is API drill pipe. It carries fluid for flushing the drill head. The fluid pressure can be over 8,000 psi. The pipe also has to be able to handle extreme flexural forces of tens of thousands of PSI while handling the fluid. Cold rolling of the pipe thread root is done to reduce the risk of stress damage to the pipe thread.
I'm an apprentice machinist and part's like those make me nervous. I've only been in the game 8 months now and most of what i do is weldment and smaller parts. The thought of making mistakes on those larger parts and the costs involved is concerning. do you ever get over that?
With experience it gets easier but you should never get to comfortable that's when you start making mistakes. ALWAYS check and double check things. Its when you get to confident and in a rush that you will regret it. It only takes a minute to check something that can save you a lot of time and headache. Ask me how I know! I've Been there.
Regardless of experience you will still make mistakes and things will still go wrong. All you can do is try not to make the same mistake twice. When something goes wrong and you can't work out why or how it went wrong and take steps to prevent it, there's a good chance it will happen again. If you want to spot the people to learn from, look for the ones that go the extra mile when things go wrong. It's easy to look like an expert while everything is running perfectly. If work is always in crisis mode you may not have any experts...
peglor well said. I'd also like to add, when you get to the point where you think you're an expert, just tell yourself that there's always more to learn. It helps me get back to reality and helps me to not get too cocky with my performance.
Making mistakes on bilets is one thing, making a mistake on a casting that's been weathered for a year, the job is urgent and it's the only casting, that's just a bit worse. I know someone who worked where they had castings that had been weathered, but someone stole them. A huge multi million pound job ruined so someone could get a few hundred, if that for the scrap value.
PRO TIP: Beware of "last part syndrome" and "Friday end of shift syndrome". Thats where you let your guard down because it all went well you are on the last part and now you start thinking about what's next..... THAT is when disaster strikes. When you relax like that you lose your muscle memory calibration and your mental focus gets blurred. This is an actual real thing not just talk.
If that is API thread it could be holding several miles of drill pipe down the well. Have to thread and unthread hundreds if not thousands of times a day or millions of times over its life span.. they can't afford to gall or weld the threads or have any sharp thread roots where cracks can for or hold some of the possible corrosive chemicals used in oil and gas drilling. I was just enjoying the sunnen skiving and roller burnishing machine video for producing hydraulic cylinders
Good to see you back! I hope everything is back to normal for you and your family. And your home shop didn't sustain too much damage. Btw, is it legal to work in a shop all by yourself? Up here at Toronto Canada, shop can get written off for let this happen.
Peter, have you ever seen anyone attempt to "thread form" those API threads. Yes, the forces and power required would be astronomical - but would be like a "forged" thread and should be about as good as could be made.
As far as I know stress corrosion cracking is very similar to fatigue in that it needs tensile stress to start a crack in a part. SCC requires exposure to corrosive elements as well as stress. By cold rolling the root of the threads, the tight corner where tensile stress will be highest (All else being equal, the crack will always start at the point of highest tensile stress) has now had compressive stress added to it, so even though more strain energy is stored there, the tensile stress level is lower, so cracks take much longer to form.
@@EdgePrecision Not for stress crack corrosion. They do this to reduce stress cracks for many millions of rotations of the drill pipe. No corrosion involved. I've been involved with this since the 1960"s. This was originally developed by the Hugh Tool Company back in the 1940's for rolling the thread roots of the buttress threads used on the breech blocks on the large military guns in WWII. Later used on some very large pipe connections used on deep hole drilling by the government. Drilco in the early 1960's licensed from Hugh Tool Company used it on their H-90 connections and later applied to most all the other rotary shouldered connections. Now a requirement for all GP HT connections.
I'm not sure how much force is on the X axis at 6000 PSI. This machine can easily take it. These slant 50's are very strong machines. I don't think I would do this on the Integrex it might knock the B axis out.
It's good to see you out and about talking shop work, how's is it going at home is your neighborhood drying out yet are you able to stay at your house.
Were not back in our house yet. There in there tearing out sheet rock and the cabinets, floors. All that has to be rebuilt. The neighborhood has dried out but with everybody's junk stacked out side it looks like a war zone.
Donald R. Cossitt I didn't get hardly any water in the garage. It must be a little higher than the house. Every thing is good with the machines. Thanks.
How do you set up a part in a double chuck lathe like that? Do you just lift it with a forklift and carefully drive it in or is there some trick to it?
They have a Jib crane in front of this machine to lift parts into it. The way you usually do it is lift with the part balanced (Strap in the middle) and slide it into the spindle up to the strap hits the chuck. Than move the strap out to the end lift enough so you can slide it down the spindle with the back chuck (Usually a 4-jaw) open bigger than the spindle bore. Than start adjusting both chuck jaws to center the part. If the part is to long to start inside the machine you do the same thing from the back side.
First don’t be sorry for asking a question. I’m not sure what you are exactly referring to when you say function of Mazak? Are you referring to a mill turn machine or B axis lathe? Are you working with a similar machine with a Fanuc control? If you are referring to the Mazatrol control. I never run Mazatrol programs. All my programs are G cod or what Mazak refers as EIA programs. So in that case would almost be identical to Fanuc. The only differences would be the setup of the machine and the controls tool data setup in the Mazatrol.
I know this is below your pay grade, but is there a vid out there that shows most Mazak lathe control panel operations? I would love to amaze my trainer!
In fact, someday, when I figure it out, I will make one. Simple basics. How to start it up. how to pause it. Todo a simple carbide tool change, etc. Basic operation of the keyboard/panel. How to do what on it. I'm sure if I call 1-800-mazak, they'll tell me to go.....
Cutting Tools, Inc. in Houston sells them. Look them up on the web. The one shown here was made by another company out there. Refuse to mention their name.
@@EdgePrecision :) The parts seem very, very similar to parts we do. And they have a real hard on for their roller burnished threads and conical diameters. So that would fit.
You have to stand off the thread and watch it when it runs. Then use the Z offset to line it up. Some machines also have special thread cycles to align a threading tool to a existing thread.
When you have a long part that will fit thru the spindle bore you can support it at both ends of the spindle. This will reduce the possibility of vibration and run out and keep the whole length of the part in line with the spindle.
I use to own this shop. I sold it in May of 2015. Now I rent space in my old shop. Its now called Centerline Manufacturing. When I owned the shop it was called Edge Precision Metal Products Ltd. I explain this in more detail in my video Shop Tour.
The roller burnishing imparts compressive residual stress in the thread. This helps alleviate a particular form of corrosion called stress corrosion cracking. Stress corrosion cracking only happens in areas that are subjected to tensile stresses in corrosive environments. Hence, reducing the tensile stress improves the corrosion performance. Threads are particularly susceptible because they usually have sharp internal corners (hence, high stress concentrations) and high tensile stresses (API threads in a drill string can hold upwards of a million pounds of tensile force). If we burnish the threads, we impart a compressive residual stress. Then, when the thread is loaded up, this compressive preload reduces the final tensile stress tensor, improving the resistance to stress corrosion cracking. Compressive residual stresses help with fatigue too, which is why shot peening is so effective on shafts, splines, gears, etc.
Love the channel, Peter! Thanks for everything you're doing!
@Ethan Hunter AFAIK, trapezoidal threads still have sharp corners at the bottom - 2 of them! (Each is less sharp than a single 60 degree, though.)
Also, you often don't get to change the thread, because whatever you're interfacing with is a long established standard...
How exactly is compressive stress retained? Rather than simply dedormoning to the shape of the stress deformation? Honest question.
Hey Peter, I found your channel a couple of months ago and have really enjoyed watching all that you put out on it. The shop I work for recently got an Integrex I 300 and your videos have been tremendously helpful in the operation of that. On the tool that you see in that machine, it is called a Cold Roll tool, it's purpose is to improve the surface finish and altar the grain structure of the root of the thread so that the threads last a bit longer. I have seen this at a previous shop I worked for where we also cut API threads, however this technique was used only on the XT threads. Never seen it done to the API style. Perhaps with the downtrend in the XT connection they've moved to doing it also on the API, or perhaps the shop I worked for didn't want to spend the extra cost. Anyway thanks for the video! Glad to see the hurricane hasn't effected shop operations.
I would have assumed the purpose of burnishing a thread would be some exacting surface finish requirement, never would have guessed stress corrosion. Thanks for yet another peek into the world of high end machining!
The burnishing locally compresses the metal surface, like shot peening, to put residual compressive stress in the surface.
Roller fillets on shoulders are used to increase fatigue resistance and corrosion resistance.
Excellent video, Peter. Thanks for posting it!
Yes the engineers involved said it for stress crack corrosion. It’s just on the bottom root radius of the thread.
Pretty well everything you show is something that is unseen before. Keep going with the videos, good to watch and learn.
A thread ought to be acting like a bunch of notches, similar to the notch you put in the test material in the Charpy impact test, or how you score glass to break it. And you can drill the end of a crack to stop it from propagating... Burnishing would also reduce the surface area that a chemical can act on, slowing down the reaction.
Just for kicks, open the chuck, rotate the part 1 degree, re-clamp, walk away.
Head scratching Monday morning.
Peter, Thank-You again for the visit in the shop, Still in the prayers of many as your area got hit so hard. It would be interesting if they would allow the camera over there during the use of that tool set-up. Your "Spirit" is uplifting as is the Texas way.
Real interesting machine work Peter good little video. Glad you made it through all the wet weather.
A little late to the party here but I'll add my. 02$.
The paint on the roller makes it easier to see if it is rolling or not during the process and can show engagement pattern. Sometimes a roller can get hung up or have a failure that prevents it from rolling freely, damaging the work and tooling.
IIRC burnishing causes plastic deformation of the surface, causing the microscopic peaks and valleys to even out, closing up the minute cracks. This action relieves surface stress, a contributing factor to SCC.
Wow! what a shop. Interesting video as well. Thanks for sharing.
This process is used to prolong / extend the failing thread roots in drill string connections.
We expermented with this a couple years ago with some large hydro forming dies. We finally just went to a heat treated thread. Here is the link to the tool if you are curious. www.coldrootrolling.com/what-is-cold-root-rolling
Peter...you really set the bar when it comes to machining (pun intended)!
Nice big shop, plenty of room around the machines...I've been in a few places to do repairs...machines are so packed in, you can barely squeeze between.....and getting cabinet doors open.....forget it!
Meu Deus. Que fábrica maravilhosa!!!!
Muito top!
Adoraria trabalhar nesse ambiente!
Very interesting setup. Hope you are recovering OK from the storm damage to your home.
Bill De La Vega Thanks Bill. We're getting there, it's going to take a while.
i missed out on storm damage.. but think stainless steel banding before the finish goes back on.. yep.. not cheap. but it will prevent additional separation.but also no where near as expensive as repairing a home... ring shank nails are available in most sizes.. there are various deck screws that can be used also. using a Kreg drill jig can be used also. less chance of splitting studs when toe nailing studs in. or when cross bracing between joists.. there are a lot of simpson strong tie shapes to add to repaired areas.
where to put stainless steel banding. around the multiple corner posts.. above at the header .. just above the highest door or window opening as a second band.. below the window lines going around the rough in door framing.. a few vertical installs from the sill plate to the header.. or thru holes drilled thru the foundation over the header.. binding the entire house to the foundation.. over the roof holding down the sheathing and across bottom of the trusses. you may have to get creative and cut some short slots in the sheathing to hold it down without bowing the eves down. enclosing the eves to prevent wind from building up under them and lifting the roof off. you know what your home shape is.. and where possible banding can be installed.. don't forget to band the interior safety rooms.. and childrens bedroom walls and ceiling if possible
6000 PIS just made me to think about the power of the motors in both the axis
Welp, it looks like you survived the storm, which I am glad to see. As per the thread burnishing, I wonder..... In my old "Eighth Addition Hand Book from 1945" LOL.. I remember seeing the side views of some plumbing threads, (yes, your stuff looks like oil pipeline drilling stuff) but, the book was saying the having a radius in the female thread's minor and the sharper pointed major on the threads of the male side, will completely lock and seal 100% for extremely high pressure... while saying something about do not plan on undoing that union with out damage or being able to count on a 100% seal as it is one time only on the sealing factor. As the sharp point gets deformed of the male end and is formed to the shape of the radius of the female side's radius minor... It did discuss that it can be done on both minors of both ends of the male & female sides, but typically not required to do both and one side by precise design cuts the mustard.. .Please note, I do not know if this is the same theory's being used here...as 70 to 80 years, allot has changed, LOL.. Of course, the next few pages goes into light duty pipe thread design and theory.. I will have to look back at the book again, but the one time sealing action.. is done at fast speed and once stopped, it is locked into one another, I thought to my self, while not knowing the alloys with in the metals that would allow for this, but, maybe on a micron scale that the metals being deforms to match one another are being melted together?.. kinda like a video on You tube I once seen, for spin welding or friction welding, just on a micronic scale? Just an idea, and am very likely wrong on so many levels. It is neat to see that forming tool. I also realize, the roller forming tools likely work hardens the minor area of the thread of the female side too, maybe to prevent the stress fractures, like you stated, but, maybe to force the major part of the thread of the male side to form and not the female side?.. .Some how, your videos always get me thinking about stuff, even if I am wrong, LOL.. I thank you for the inspiration. I showed the air footage of the flood damage to the area where you live to several folks, They have all wished you and your friends and family a quick recovery to getting back to a normal living situation. Dru
The OD threads don’t need the burnishing because it’s supported by the other part it’s threaded into when assembled...? I don’t know if that correct thou but makes sense to me. The ID thread (female) doesn’t have the support from internal force pushing outward. (Please let me know if that’s correct or not.)
Your shop is insane! Love it!
Nice tool, fun watching it being made.
Hope the guy who ran the beryllium copper parts knows of the risks involved. Berylliosis is almost always fatal. Parts like that will oxidize over a time and have beryllium contamination 100 times allowable levels. He should have a full respirator if any grinding is done.
You and that company doing such high-grade parts never seen before.Thanks for sharing.
Lol.. Its just an API thread.
Cold rolling has been mandatory for years.... Since the 1980's atleast
@@gj91471 I am a machinist for semiconductor parts. but I have never used those types of things for semiconductor parts. thanks for letting me know.
@@gj91471 As Peter says, it's unusual.
@@udayakeerthiratna5992 it's not unusual for guys that thread Oilfield connections.
@@udayakeerthiratna5992 if caught not cold rolling roots API threading licence will be removed
That's something all my 26 years never seen that before
Thats weird because rolling it like that should make the material magnetic and REDUCE the corrosion resistance.
I'd hate to think how much that plug gage costs.
I've never seen the ID style before but I've use an OD roller a tonne on a manual lathe back in my working for someone else days. One of the few tasks that a manual lathe is better for, the setup is super easy as its was just a pinch style with a power pack. Just engage the half nut roll up to the start of the thread, turn on the pump, get your pressure set, run up the thread, turn the pump off and the spring opens the jaws up, easy! The shop foreman said it was for some sort of pre stressing of the thread root to prevent cracking but that may just be hog wash but a quick google search seams to agree with that. That looks like a huge pain in the rear to get setup and running though. Be really cool to see a video of that running, is there room to get the gopro in there with a clear view of the action or are the running it with coolant?
10" spindle bore, jeezz, the Myford ml7 only has 1/2 ".
This must put massive pressure on the lead screws and the ways
Yes it will overload the X axis servo if not done correctly. Even on this slant 50 lathe.
Cold rolling the paint marks are so they can see if the roller is spinning and if it's in lead if not the paint would rub off like marker die
Very cool content, I love it! Is it possible for you to do a show down of the tools and equipment, very interested to see what's to get and what's not really worth it. Thank you!
Space age NASA stuff What cant you do with those machines love it.
Very cool
Nice workshop!
Very cool stuff. Must be for very High Pressure application.
This is API drill pipe. It carries fluid for flushing the drill head. The fluid pressure can be over 8,000 psi. The pipe also has to be able to handle extreme flexural forces of tens of thousands of PSI while handling the fluid. Cold rolling of the pipe thread root is done to reduce the risk of stress damage to the pipe thread.
I'm an apprentice machinist and part's like those make me nervous. I've only been in the game 8 months now and most of what i do is weldment and smaller parts. The thought of making mistakes on those larger parts and the costs involved is concerning.
do you ever get over that?
With experience it gets easier but you should never get to comfortable that's when you start making mistakes. ALWAYS check and double check things. Its when you get to confident and in a rush that you will regret it. It only takes a minute to check something that can save you a lot of time and headache. Ask me how I know! I've Been there.
Regardless of experience you will still make mistakes and things will still go wrong. All you can do is try not to make the same mistake twice. When something goes wrong and you can't work out why or how it went wrong and take steps to prevent it, there's a good chance it will happen again.
If you want to spot the people to learn from, look for the ones that go the extra mile when things go wrong. It's easy to look like an expert while everything is running perfectly. If work is always in crisis mode you may not have any experts...
peglor well said.
I'd also like to add, when you get to the point where you think you're an expert, just tell yourself that there's always more to learn.
It helps me get back to reality and helps me to not get too cocky with my performance.
Making mistakes on bilets is one thing, making a mistake on a casting that's been weathered for a year, the job is urgent and it's the only casting, that's just a bit worse. I know someone who worked where they had castings that had been weathered, but someone stole them. A huge multi million pound job ruined so someone could get a few hundred, if that for the scrap value.
PRO TIP: Beware of "last part syndrome" and "Friday end of shift syndrome". Thats where you let your guard down because it all went well you are on the last part and now you start thinking about what's next..... THAT is when disaster strikes.
When you relax like that you lose your muscle memory calibration and your mental focus gets blurred. This is an actual real thing not just talk.
You're right, that was interesting!
It sounds like 99% of your jobs are petroleum?
We would love to see some of your coworkers do their thing.
If that is API thread it could be holding several miles of drill pipe down the well. Have to thread and unthread hundreds if not thousands of times a day or millions of times over its life span.. they can't afford to gall or weld the threads or have any sharp thread roots where cracks can for or hold some of the possible corrosive chemicals used in oil and gas drilling.
I was just enjoying the sunnen skiving and roller burnishing machine video for producing hydraulic cylinders
Good to see you back! I hope everything is back to normal for you and your family. And your home shop didn't sustain too much damage. Btw, is it legal to work in a shop all by yourself? Up here at Toronto Canada, shop can get written off for let this happen.
Wing Wu This is Texas no rules here.
Wing Wu Your location says it all...
Peter, have you ever seen anyone attempt to "thread form" those API threads. Yes, the forces and power required would be astronomical - but would be like a "forged" thread and should be about as good as could be made.
No I have never see a API thread cold formed or roll formed.
Depends on the specification. NS-1 calls for the threads to be rolled, even if they are API.
That technique is cold root rolling that work hardens the root to improve it's strength. Cheers.
You know that was my first thought too. But I talked to the engineers involved with this. They said it’s for improving stress crack corrosion.
As far as I know stress corrosion cracking is very similar to fatigue in that it needs tensile stress to start a crack in a part. SCC requires exposure to corrosive elements as well as stress. By cold rolling the root of the threads, the tight corner where tensile stress will be highest (All else being equal, the crack will always start at the point of highest tensile stress) has now had compressive stress added to it, so even though more strain energy is stored there, the tensile stress level is lower, so cracks take much longer to form.
@@EdgePrecision Not for stress crack corrosion. They do this to reduce stress cracks for many millions of rotations of the drill pipe. No corrosion involved. I've been involved with this since the 1960"s. This was originally developed by the Hugh Tool Company back in the 1940's for rolling the thread roots of the buttress threads used on the breech blocks on the large military guns in WWII. Later used on some very large pipe connections used on deep hole drilling by the government. Drilco in the early 1960's licensed from Hugh Tool Company used it on their H-90 connections and later applied to most all the other rotary shouldered connections. Now a requirement for all GP HT connections.
@@EdgePrecision Interesting, cheers.
Hi Peter,
I have never seen anything like that, thanks for sharing. At 6000 Psi would that be hard on the ball screws of the lathe?
I'm not sure how much force is on the X axis at 6000 PSI. This machine can easily take it. These slant 50's are very strong machines. I don't think I would do this on the Integrex it might knock the B axis out.
Yeah it might be too much even for a machine with support bearings on both sides of the milling head like a WFL Millturn or a Doosan Puma MX.
really always you give something excellent
Hope your house is drying out. Great video.
nice factory!! i wanna work for this company with them
Thats beast machine out there.... 😻
It's good to see you out and about talking shop work, how's is it going at home is your neighborhood drying out yet are you able to stay at your house.
Were not back in our house yet. There in there tearing out sheet rock and the cabinets, floors. All that has to be rebuilt. The neighborhood has dried out but with everybody's junk stacked out side it looks like a war zone.
Well good to hear progress has started hope you didn't lose anything in the garage do to flood water you had a pretty neat little man cave there.
Donald R. Cossitt I didn't get hardly any water in the garage. It must be a little higher than the house. Every thing is good with the machines. Thanks.
How do you set up a part in a double chuck lathe like that? Do you just lift it with a forklift and carefully drive it in or is there some trick to it?
They have a Jib crane in front of this machine to lift parts into it. The way you usually do it is lift with the part balanced (Strap in the middle) and slide it into the spindle up to the strap hits the chuck. Than move the strap out to the end lift enough so you can slide it down the spindle with the back chuck (Usually a 4-jaw) open bigger than the spindle bore. Than start adjusting both chuck jaws to center the part. If the part is to long to start inside the machine you do the same thing from the back side.
@@EdgePrecision Sounds scary if you have a precise surface on the OD of the part. Thanks for answer
Yes you do have to take precautions to protect the part if that's necessary.
What do those bigger machines cost new? Used?
A new one of these costs between 900 thousand to1.2 million depending on the options.
Hi how long did it take you to learn all the function of mazak? sorry for asking because I’m currently working with a fanuc.
First don’t be sorry for asking a question. I’m not sure what you are exactly referring to when you say function of Mazak? Are you referring to a mill turn machine or B axis lathe? Are you working with a similar machine with a Fanuc control? If you are referring to the Mazatrol control. I never run Mazatrol programs. All my programs are G cod or what Mazak refers as EIA programs. So in that case would almost be identical to Fanuc. The only differences would be the setup of the machine and the controls tool data setup in the Mazatrol.
Pretty neat.
cool! very interesting!
awesome vids boss
I know this is below your pay grade, but is there a vid out there that shows most Mazak lathe control panel operations? I would love to amaze my trainer!
steel beel Sorry not that I know of. Have you tried a search on UA-cam for one?
I have searched everywhere!
In fact, someday, when I figure it out, I will make one. Simple basics. How to start it up. how to pause it. Todo a simple carbide tool change, etc. Basic operation of the keyboard/panel. How to do what on it. I'm sure if I call 1-800-mazak, they'll tell me to go.....
one end only, maybe for a field test ?
I find it interesting, who makes the Burnishing tool?
Cutting Tools, Inc. in Houston sells them. Look them up on the web. The one shown here was made by another company out there. Refuse to mention their name.
Looks like a pain in the ass to set up.
Hello Baker&Hughes parts
I'm not totally sure on that but I think so.
@@EdgePrecision :) The parts seem very, very similar to parts we do. And they have a real hard on for their roller burnished threads and conical diameters. So that would fit.
i can bet Santiago (chago) is doing that part.
Yes he is, You are right.
Edge Precision
Congratulations I really like your work is pretty awesome.
Anyone know how they get the roller to match with the thread? Does the roller float in Z axis?
You have to stand off the thread and watch it when it runs. Then use the Z offset to line it up. Some machines also have special thread cycles to align a threading tool to a existing thread.
do you have any idea as to what is the purpose of the hiden chuck
When you have a long part that will fit thru the spindle bore you can support it at both ends of the spindle. This will reduce the possibility of vibration and run out and keep the whole length of the part in line with the spindle.
shand seimela Shand it's called a cat head it supports the other end to run True like the Chuck end from one end to the other end.
Just curious. Do you own this shop ?
I use to own this shop. I sold it in May of 2015. Now I rent space in my old shop. Its now called Centerline Manufacturing. When I owned the shop it was called Edge Precision Metal Products Ltd. I explain this in more detail in my video Shop Tour.
Do they do a lot of drill rod?
Not sure I understand this question. Are you talking parts or material?
Edge Precision I'm talking about the parts.