Very well done. I have a 40yr old walker jack bought at SEARS.Leaks down when its cold but there no puddle on the floor. Added HYD fluid once in allllll those years. Retired now. Got lots of time screw things up!.
I commented on Part 1 about getting that tank nut off, but I welded up a better tool, held it on with a 12" C clamp, and used a striking wrench to turn it, and it worked well.. I got everything back together, and everything worked. I put it outside (so I didn't walk into it and stub by toe, etc), and discovered it leaked a bunch of oil out the over-pressure valve thing... After trying to make sure I seated the little ball in there well (a little carefully tapping as described in Lazzar's website), I realized what was reeeally happening was the "vent" that had been on there was actually a check valve (with a 1/8 NPT threads and not 7/16-20 like it should..) and not letting air back in, and the fluid couldn't go back in the reservoir and was finding it's way out that over-pressure valve... For now I have a piece of paper towel in there, and will get the right vent. Thank you again, your 2 videos were a big, big help!
THANKS, GREAT VIDEOS; BUT,HOW OZ, OF FLUID YOU USE?? THEN HOW YOU BLEED, THE AIR???( TODAYS CHINA JACK" PRICE$$ & SERVICES...THE BEST. ALSO EASY TO REPAIR !!!.( WAITING FOR PART #3) BLESSINGS 🙏.
Hello. You mentioned that you would post a link to the instructions you followed. I don't see it posted ... could you point me to where it is or repost them? Thank you for taking the time to make these videos!
@@ImpalamansGarage Thank you. I had actually seen those before. Those instructions leave out a fair amount of detail, but your videos fill in those gaps nicely. I have a Lincoln 2 ton jack (model 93642) that I purchased new sometime between 1988 and 1990. It worked flawlessly for all those years. It's surprising to see how the design remained virtually unchanged from your 60's or 70's jack to my circa 1990 jack. A couple weeks ago it wouldn't lift despite adding oil and bleeding. After taking it apart I could see why ... sludgy oil and brittle and broken seals. The heal plate (white plastic piece that goes on the piston above the cup seal) was stuck in the bore and I had to destroy it to remove it. I'm waiting for a new one to arrive. Once it does I'm looking forward to continuing the rebuild with the help of your videos and getting another 30 years out of this jack.
You don't need seals for the outer cylinder because it is not used as a reservoir. The reservoir is in the block at the bottom of the jack. For jacks where the outer cylinder is the reservoir, you would have a rubber cap on it for the oil fill hole.
Hi, great job and thanks. It is difficult to tell but the jack cylinder appears to be about the same size as a 5 ton bottle jack, can you confirm? I am just wondering to understand the lever length and I'm guessing your jack has 3x the length from the pivot point to the saddle as it is from the pivot point to where the cylinder connects, assuming a 90 degree pivot point.
Great explanation of each step.. However, I bought the rebuild kit from Lazzar and I am having problems with the pump hanging up and it will not jack up……. Am I missing a simple filling step thats not allowing me to get it going?? My jack has a bit different ram than yours. The older model. How much oil will these things take after a teardown?
I don't know how much oil. I just filled it until it was full. Possibly you tightened the lock nut down too tightly compressing the leather sliders such that it prevents the pump from moving properly? I'm going off memory. Apologies.
If you are using a mobile device you will probably need to click the little down arrow below the video title to expand the description section to see all of it. Same on a regular computer.
About the safety valve - I turned the adjustment screw to bottom out the spring in my Hein-Werner (Walker/Lincoln), and it partially (permanently) compressed the spring. That means there's no way to get it back to the factory setting using that method. You did this the right way, but the question is, why even remove the two expansion plugs unless you know there's a problem? The safety valve has no o-rings or gaskets to fail, and the power plug gasket is only there to keep oil from seeping out the top, past the expansion plug. My advice is to replace the o-rings and seals on the pump, u-joint and main ram, then test the jack. If it works properly and doesn't leak, leave the expansion plugs alone.
This jack was completely non-functional. Nothing about it worked and it leaked from everywhere. It was basically junk when I got it so I decided to completely dissemble it.
@@ImpalamansGarage Just to be clear, I wasn’t criticizing your work. But if someone with this jack only has a leak (other than at the expansion plugs), and the jack is working OK otherwise, I don’t see a reason to pull the plugs. In fact, the two plugs and the parts in those bores can be removed without disassembling the jack, so it doesn’t actually save time VS doing it later if necessary. In my case, the jack was operating OK, but it was leaking from the front of the ram. It was worthwhile to replace the V-packing in the pump and the O-ring on the release stem while it was disasssembled, but I wish now that I hadn’t pulled either of the expansion plugs. Speaking of the release stem, I was really bothered by the need to push the O-ring over all those threads in order to seat the ring in the groove. I ended up making a thin aluminum mandrel (tube) on my lathe, just large enough to slip over the threads. Then I pushed the O-ring onto the mandrel, set the mandrel over the threads and pushed the O-ring into the groove. I really think something like this could be made cheap enough to include it with the kits. Alternately, maybe the threads could be wrapped in tape or covered temporarily with a piece of heat shrink tubing. I’m almost done replacing parts now and have decided to use RTV to seal the tank and tank nut. I’ll give that a week to cure before adding oil. Like you, I left the expansion plug off on the safety valve, so I’ll adjust the nut later by trial and error. If it lifts the front end of my F150, it’s good to go (I have the 2-ton version). Thanks for taking time to make the video, it was very helpful to see how you did the work!
@@TriodeLuvr Clearly you know way more about this topic than I do! 😅 Appreciate you hopping on here and commenting. This type of info helps a lot of people.
@@TriodeLuvr This is called REBUILDING something. Complete disassembly is a matter of course, to be able to clean everything thoroughly. Dealing with putting it back together, replacing parts, looking up torque values, adjustments like that pressure valve, etc are also all "matter of course" for rebuilding or overhauls.
@@spettro9 Service on machinery does not always require complete disassembly. It is often sufficient to repair only the area in need of maintenance and to test the other systems for proper operation. I wish I had done that in this case, and I stand by everything I've said previously regarding the work on this jack.
Is it possible do a service of just changing the fluid? I got mine at an estate sale today for $22 no rust, looks like it’s never been used. Works fine... but I think it’s low on jack oil. It appears there’s a nozzle by the two caps which appears to have a foam filter inside... is that right? Thanks for the rebuild vid
Sure. Just add some jack oil and see what happens. If it works, use it. Depends on your tolerance for fluid leaks. lol.... If it just leaks a little once in a while, just fill it and use it. The port you mentioned is the fill point. Test it thoroughly before putting it to work. Safety !
hello very good video excellent explanation I need to know what is the diameter of the main piston and that of the small push piston. could you tell me?
I do no have the dimensions of the parts. You may be able to obtain the data from the rebuild kit manufacturer. Visit the site listed in the description and contact them.
OMG! You lost me about half way through. I don't know how you kept track of all those little parts. I'd of gone to harbor freight and bought a new jack. Glad you got it to work.
Dear sir, really great video. I have 2 similar hacks with slotted housing top. The tool you made is awesome and I took pictures of it to have a machine shop Jake it for me as I do not have a welding apparatus. Would you be kind to loan the tool. I’ll be glad to pay shipping and will return within a week. Or if you want to sell it maybe? I am in Charlotte nc. Kind regards, Ash
Very well done. I have a 40yr old walker jack bought at SEARS.Leaks down when its cold but there no puddle on the floor. Added HYD fluid once in allllll those years. Retired now. Got lots of time screw things up!.
Thank you sir.
Very informative and identifying the parts. The best one on here for rebuild. Very nice job. Thank you.
Appreciate sir. Glad it helped.
Great job! Nice to see someone who knows what they’re doing.
Thank you. I just followed the instructions. LOL....
Good informative video, best one I’ve seen here.
I commented on Part 1 about getting that tank nut off,
but I welded up a better tool, held it on with a 12" C clamp, and used a striking wrench to turn it, and it worked well..
I got everything back together, and everything worked.
I put it outside (so I didn't walk into it and stub by toe, etc), and discovered it leaked a bunch of oil out the over-pressure valve thing...
After trying to make sure I seated the little ball in there well (a little carefully tapping as described in Lazzar's website),
I realized what was reeeally happening was the "vent" that had been on there was actually a check valve (with a 1/8 NPT threads and not 7/16-20 like it should..) and not letting air back in, and the fluid couldn't go back in the reservoir and was finding it's way out that over-pressure valve...
For now I have a piece of paper towel in there, and will get the right vent.
Thank you again, your 2 videos were a big, big help!
THANKS, GREAT VIDEOS; BUT,HOW OZ, OF FLUID YOU USE?? THEN HOW YOU BLEED, THE AIR???( TODAYS CHINA JACK" PRICE$$ & SERVICES...THE BEST. ALSO EASY TO REPAIR !!!.( WAITING FOR PART #3)
BLESSINGS 🙏.
Nice job
How has the jack held up the last two years?
Used it this weekend while working on the vette. So far so good.
We’re you hone to remove rusty cly ??
Hello. You mentioned that you would post a link to the instructions you followed. I don't see it posted ... could you point me to where it is or repost them? Thank you for taking the time to make these videos!
Hey Jim. The instructions I used are at the link in the video description above.
Seal kit: www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kit...
Model #93632, Series # * All Series, Hydraulic Floor Jack 1-1/2 Ton
www.hcrcnow.com/faqs
@@ImpalamansGarage Thank you. I had actually seen those before. Those instructions leave out a fair amount of detail, but your videos fill in those gaps nicely. I have a Lincoln 2 ton jack (model 93642) that I purchased new sometime between 1988 and 1990. It worked flawlessly for all those years. It's surprising to see how the design remained virtually unchanged from your 60's or 70's jack to my circa 1990 jack. A couple weeks ago it wouldn't lift despite adding oil and bleeding. After taking it apart I could see why ... sludgy oil and brittle and broken seals. The heal plate (white plastic piece that goes on the piston above the cup seal) was stuck in the bore and I had to destroy it to remove it. I'm waiting for a new one to arrive. Once it does I'm looking forward to continuing the rebuild with the help of your videos and getting another 30 years out of this jack.
Thanks for the great video
All the other videos I looked at were guys spray painting and adding oil calling their videos rebuilds. LoL
Appreciate it. Thanks for watching!
Excelente 👏, tengo un G-735 Michelín es muy similar? Te pregunto ya que este modelo cuenta con 3 ollos tipo válvula, buen día
Here is a kit for your G735 Michelin. www.hcrcnow.com/shop/seal-kits/product/6303
@@ImpalamansGarage ok y el procedimiento podría ser similar?
You don't need seals for the outer cylinder because it is not used as a reservoir. The reservoir is in the block at the bottom of the jack. For jacks where the outer cylinder is the reservoir, you would have a rubber cap on it for the oil fill hole.
Pretty sure the outer cylinder is indeed the reservoir..
Hi, great job and thanks.
It is difficult to tell but the jack cylinder appears to be about the same size as a 5 ton bottle jack, can you confirm?
I am just wondering to understand the lever length and I'm guessing your jack has 3x the length from the pivot point to the saddle as it is from the pivot point to where the cylinder connects, assuming a 90 degree pivot point.
It's a 1.5 ton jack. It's pretty old.
@@ImpalamansGarage I seen that it is a 1.5 ton jack but was asking about the cylinder size.
Great explanation of each step.. However, I bought the rebuild kit from Lazzar and I am having problems with the pump hanging up and it will not jack up……. Am I missing a simple filling step thats not allowing me to get it going?? My jack has a bit different ram than yours. The older model. How much oil will these things take after a teardown?
I don't know how much oil. I just filled it until it was full. Possibly you tightened the lock nut down too tightly compressing the leather sliders such that it prevents the pump from moving properly? I'm going off memory. Apologies.
Back off the nut holding the leather cups in the pump assembly.
Did you put the website that you had mentioned in the description I guess I'm not seeing it. The one that had all the information about Jack's?
If you are using a mobile device you will probably need to click the little down arrow below the video title to expand the description section to see all of it. Same on a regular computer.
About the safety valve - I turned the adjustment screw to bottom out the spring in my Hein-Werner (Walker/Lincoln), and it partially (permanently) compressed the spring. That means there's no way to get it back to the factory setting using that method. You did this the right way, but the question is, why even remove the two expansion plugs unless you know there's a problem? The safety valve has no o-rings or gaskets to fail, and the power plug gasket is only there to keep oil from seeping out the top, past the expansion plug. My advice is to replace the o-rings and seals on the pump, u-joint and main ram, then test the jack. If it works properly and doesn't leak, leave the expansion plugs alone.
This jack was completely non-functional. Nothing about it worked and it leaked from everywhere. It was basically junk when I got it so I decided to completely dissemble it.
@@ImpalamansGarage Just to be clear, I wasn’t criticizing your work. But if someone with this jack only has a leak (other than at the expansion plugs), and the jack is working OK otherwise, I don’t see a reason to pull the plugs. In fact, the two plugs and the parts in those bores can be removed without disassembling the jack, so it doesn’t actually save time VS doing it later if necessary. In my case, the jack was operating OK, but it was leaking from the front of the ram. It was worthwhile to replace the V-packing in the pump and the O-ring on the release stem while it was disasssembled, but I wish now that I hadn’t pulled either of the expansion plugs.
Speaking of the release stem, I was really bothered by the need to push the O-ring over all those threads in order to seat the ring in the groove. I ended up making a thin aluminum mandrel (tube) on my lathe, just large enough to slip over the threads. Then I pushed the O-ring onto the mandrel, set the mandrel over the threads and pushed the O-ring into the groove. I really think something like this could be made cheap enough to include it with the kits. Alternately, maybe the threads could be wrapped in tape or covered temporarily with a piece of heat shrink tubing.
I’m almost done replacing parts now and have decided to use RTV to seal the tank and tank nut. I’ll give that a week to cure before adding oil. Like you, I left the expansion plug off on the safety valve, so I’ll adjust the nut later by trial and error. If it lifts the front end of my F150, it’s good to go (I have the 2-ton version). Thanks for taking time to make the video, it was very helpful to see how you did the work!
@@TriodeLuvr Clearly you know way more about this topic than I do! 😅 Appreciate you hopping on here and commenting. This type of info helps a lot of people.
@@TriodeLuvr This is called REBUILDING something. Complete disassembly is a matter of course, to be able to clean everything thoroughly. Dealing with putting it back together, replacing parts, looking up torque values, adjustments like that pressure valve, etc are also all "matter of course" for rebuilding or overhauls.
@@spettro9 Service on machinery does not always require complete disassembly. It is often sufficient to repair only the area in need of maintenance and to test the other systems for proper operation. I wish I had done that in this case, and I stand by everything I've said previously regarding the work on this jack.
Hi. What size. Long is the release valve. ???? My is broke. But coming 2 different size. 🤷♂️
Go to the website in the description. That is where I bought the rebuild kit. They have a lot of good documentation to reference.
Is it possible do a service of just changing the fluid? I got mine at an estate sale today for $22 no rust, looks like it’s never been used. Works fine... but I think it’s low on jack oil. It appears there’s a nozzle by the two caps which appears to have a foam filter inside... is that right? Thanks for the rebuild vid
Sure. Just add some jack oil and see what happens. If it works, use it. Depends on your tolerance for fluid leaks. lol.... If it just leaks a little once in a while, just fill it and use it. The port you mentioned is the fill point. Test it thoroughly before putting it to work. Safety !
@@ImpalamansGarage vent port / fill port.
very good
Hi. What size is the release valve ? My is broke and coming 2 different size 😩
I don't know but the folks at the site where I bought the kit would know. I would contact them. Here is it: www.hcrcnow.com/faqs
Thanks for the video! Going to rebuild mine that I have had for 30 yrs and just now failed. Bought it at b and l pawn shop Fairbanks Alaska
What sealant did you use around the base of the reservoir and gland nut?
Permatex Ultra Grey. So far it's holding.
@@ImpalamansGarage Thank you!
hello very good video excellent explanation
I need to know what is the diameter of the main piston and that of the small push piston.
could you tell me?
I do no have the dimensions of the parts. You may be able to obtain the data from the rebuild kit manufacturer. Visit the site listed in the description and contact them.
OMG! You lost me about half way through. I don't know how you kept track of all those little parts. I'd of gone to harbor freight and bought a new jack.
Glad you got it to work.
I had instructions!
same as my apak
Dear sir, really great video. I have 2 similar hacks with slotted housing top. The tool you made is awesome and I took pictures of it to have a machine shop Jake it for me as I do not have a welding apparatus. Would you be kind to loan the tool. I’ll be glad to pay shipping and will return within a week. Or if you want to sell it maybe? I am in Charlotte nc.
Kind regards,
Ash
Advanced Auto sells bearing sockets. One of the sizes might work for you. Under $20
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