Wanted to see the result as I am doing full research before doing mine. 1. Thoroughly clean entire saddle with saddle soap and water. You want no dirt or human or horse sweat involved in this process. Let dry thoroughly. 2. The deglazing is important to do evenly over the saddle and especially in spots the rider would cover with their body. The things that damage the glaze is the sun, regular use and wear that is breaking down the leather, but really the sun and places the leather already looks discolored are already more broken down and the very nice spots under the lip of where we sit, where the sun is not beating and under flaps and edges is where is needs the most deglazing. Let dry from process thoroughly and this allows you to see any spots you may need to work on more. 3. Apply the dye. I suggest using Fiebing's Pro Dye for saddles as it has an alcohol content which makes it soak deeper into the leather than their "leather dye". Please move slowly and switch methods like starting with small circles and then go back over it while still wet with left to right movements and you will see how the leather is or is not taking the dye evenly. It can be a slow process to lift every flap and get every edge. Wear some surgical gloves for this part to be able to lift leather and not stain your hands in the process. You want to let the saddle sit and dry and soak in all of the dye and then see how it took the dye. Be prepared to put on another coat depending on the level of wear on the leather, how much change in color you are doing, how new the leather was, how much deglazing was done, etc. Check all of your edges and small pieces that could be easily missed. This is a detail oriented process. 4. You need to reglaze to get the sheen back on the color and hold the color in from getting on your pants, horse, saddle pad, etc. Each product line has their own product for this. This is purely to hold the color into the saddle and give the shiny "glazed" finish look. Let thoroughly dry. Normally Resolene, but check with each kind of dye that is used. 5. Now moisturize your saddle. Use Mink Oil on top of Neatsfoot oil to give a moisture boost and seal it from weather and moisture even on top of the glaze. Get that saddle oiled and looking brand new!!! This will also help remove the excess dye that would get on your pants and verify the dye was sealed in properly. Weather proof that saddle and make it shine!!!!!! with softness and suppleness in the leather after you had really stripped it down. This will help be another layer of sealant only if you are truly letting everything dry and sealing it properly. Your saddle should be stunning. You can repeat with the oiling until your thirsty saddle is soft and supple and this prevents the dye coming out from worn areas and keeps those areas from cracking or having issues with wear that would make the dye more likely to wear off/down faster. Buff and polish that baby with Mink Oil to repel all water. These are also Fiebing products that I love and can be reapplied with regular saddle care.
There’s a final coat you’re suppose to put on that restores the finish of the saddle. It’s like a barrier between the dye and your equipment. You used the deglazer to remove the finish of the saddle so that you could penetrate the leather with the dye. After dying, you need to put back on that protective finish. It’s a separate product and a really important step
Yes you're right! It's called resolene. I have ordered some, but it takes a while to come in the mail. When I was doing research on this most people said that a high quality conditioner like beeswax or mink oil can do the job for you in the short term.
I love this! Thank you so much for doing this because now I know what the result will look like! Also you put your videos together so nice, and they are so entertaining. Literally I watch all your vids till the end but other youtubers I skip a lot of the vid. Keep up the good work!
I hope it went well! 💗 Redying tack can definitely be quite a nerve-racking process but with the 2 saddles I’ve redyed I’d definitely say it’s worth it in the end. The trickiest part in my opinion is finding what sealants/varnishes work best for you :)
You have to put a wax coating of some sort on top as a sealer and buff it out once you’re done to keep it from transferring. Otherwise once you get sweaty it’ll definitely transfer (ask me how I know🤦🏻♀️😂) but beeswax works awesome
I ended up buying an old faded $20 racing saddle at Goodwill. The leathers faded in a lot of places so I might try dying it since it was only 20 bucks. I will not be using it on horses unless it happens to fit them and doesn't cause any pain but I really don't want to take chances so I'm just gonna have it as a display saddle and use my good saddle for riding.
"I'm gonna start on the seat" *wipes saddle flap* But I will try this in the summer I bought my English jumping saddle for $20 bucks at an antique store and it was in ok condition one of my billets was missing but it is a good saddle and it fits my horses, and I am also gonna dye my bridle and noseband and reins so wish me luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey Cass, there's a brand on Facebook called Clyde's leather conditioner that have literally stolen your video 🙈 you're making their product look awesome though
@@EquineCass Yes you're right, I can't see it on their page anymore but the ad still pops up in my feed. Unfortunately the video is a status update and I can't get a link for you :(
@@EquineCass yes I thought so too! Just blatantly stealing your work. I've watched your video a few times when I was looking to do my saddle and I recognized your pink cloth 😆
Wanted to see the result as I am doing full research before doing mine.
1. Thoroughly clean entire saddle with saddle soap and water. You want no dirt or human or horse sweat involved in this process. Let dry thoroughly.
2. The deglazing is important to do evenly over the saddle and especially in spots the rider would cover with their body. The things that damage the glaze is the sun, regular use and wear that is breaking down the leather, but really the sun and places the leather already looks discolored are already more broken down and the very nice spots under the lip of where we sit, where the sun is not beating and under flaps and edges is where is needs the most deglazing. Let dry from process thoroughly and this allows you to see any spots you may need to work on more.
3. Apply the dye. I suggest using Fiebing's Pro Dye for saddles as it has an alcohol content which makes it soak deeper into the leather than their "leather dye". Please move slowly and switch methods like starting with small circles and then go back over it while still wet with left to right movements and you will see how the leather is or is not taking the dye evenly. It can be a slow process to lift every flap and get every edge. Wear some surgical gloves for this part to be able to lift leather and not stain your hands in the process. You want to let the saddle sit and dry and soak in all of the dye and then see how it took the dye. Be prepared to put on another coat depending on the level of wear on the leather, how much change in color you are doing, how new the leather was, how much deglazing was done, etc. Check all of your edges and small pieces that could be easily missed. This is a detail oriented process.
4. You need to reglaze to get the sheen back on the color and hold the color in from getting on your pants, horse, saddle pad, etc. Each product line has their own product for this. This is purely to hold the color into the saddle and give the shiny "glazed" finish look. Let thoroughly dry. Normally Resolene, but check with each kind of dye that is used.
5. Now moisturize your saddle. Use Mink Oil on top of Neatsfoot oil to give a moisture boost and seal it from weather and moisture even on top of the glaze. Get that saddle oiled and looking brand new!!! This will also help remove the excess dye that would get on your pants and verify the dye was sealed in properly. Weather proof that saddle and make it shine!!!!!! with softness and suppleness in the leather after you had really stripped it down. This will help be another layer of sealant only if you are truly letting everything dry and sealing it properly. Your saddle should be stunning. You can repeat with the oiling until your thirsty saddle is soft and supple and this prevents the dye coming out from worn areas and keeps those areas from cracking or having issues with wear that would make the dye more likely to wear off/down faster. Buff and polish that baby with Mink Oil to repel all water. These are also Fiebing products that I love and can be reapplied with regular saddle care.
There’s a final coat you’re suppose to put on that restores the finish of the saddle. It’s like a barrier between the dye and your equipment. You used the deglazer to remove the finish of the saddle so that you could penetrate the leather with the dye. After dying, you need to put back on that protective finish. It’s a separate product and a really important step
Yes you're right! It's called resolene. I have ordered some, but it takes a while to come in the mail. When I was doing research on this most people said that a high quality conditioner like beeswax or mink oil can do the job for you in the short term.
@@EquineCass 1 Qatar 3fS
It’s so aesthetically pleasing to watch you fill in the light spots 🤤
I know I find it sooooo satisfying 😍
I love this! Thank you so much for doing this because now I know what the result will look like! Also you put your videos together so nice, and they are so entertaining. Literally I watch all your vids till the end but other youtubers I skip a lot of the vid. Keep up the good work!
Aw thank you! That means a lot ♥️
omg this is so satisfying cause the second i’m like “oh no she missed that spot i’m gonna think about that for the rest of the video” you cover it 🥴🥴
yeah, i came to this video because i was trying to see if anyone else was crazy enough to dye their saddle too 🤠 wish me luck guys
I hope it went well! 💗 Redying tack can definitely be quite a nerve-racking process but with the 2 saddles I’ve redyed I’d definitely say it’s worth it in the end. The trickiest part in my opinion is finding what sealants/varnishes work best for you :)
@@Primrose.ponies Any tips, tricks or things that worked for you as I am looking to dye a used saddle I purchased darker.
I found this satisfying to watch 😍😍 interested to see how it lasts!
Me too 😍 And yes let's just hope my white breeches stay white after shows 😬😂
This is anxiety because I know I would ruin it but I’m trying to tell myself it’s not mine
So 1 year later... still love it?? Did you end up putting that resolene stuff on it later?
The preview: "Stupidest thing I've ever done."
Reality: "My saddle is really good."
The chicken laughing was honestly amazing.
You have to put a wax coating of some sort on top as a sealer and buff it out once you’re done to keep it from transferring. Otherwise once you get sweaty it’ll definitely transfer (ask me how I know🤦🏻♀️😂) but beeswax works awesome
I'm so excited for you!!!! I'm planning on dying my older dressage saddle!
I want to do this. I am terrified.
I have the same saddle love it! I just do hus and equitatation no jumping lol. I think mine was 700. and mine barely has any leather rubs. lol
if you use a leather balm it will put the finish back on, and it will look glossier
Where did you buy the leather dye? Thinking of doing it myself but I want to get the right stuff💛
Not sure where she got hers specifically, but you can find the same brand on Amazon.
What color dye did you use?
That saddle looks brand new! Been looking at dying mine for a while (it’s about 30 yes old, LOL) did you deglaze the bottom too?
This video really helped! I’m most likely buying a new saddle soon, it’s used and kinda stained so I’m planning on dying it
You have worked a lot with your saddle, is worth your efforts. Your chickens and your border collie dog are very cute.
so I know you said not to do it
but
imma do it
it better go viral!!
holy this turned out so good i did not expect that
I ended up buying an old faded $20 racing saddle at Goodwill. The leathers faded in a lot of places so I might try dying it since it was only 20 bucks. I will not be using it on horses unless it happens to fit them and doesn't cause any pain but I really don't want to take chances so I'm just gonna have it as a display saddle and use my good saddle for riding.
"I'm gonna start on the seat" *wipes saddle flap* But I will try this in the summer I bought my English jumping saddle for $20 bucks at an antique store and it was in ok condition one of my billets was missing but it is a good saddle and it fits my horses, and I am also gonna dye my bridle and noseband and reins so wish me luck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Good job!! Well worth the hard work!
Wow, it looks amazing!
What brand is your saddle?
Santa Cruz!
When the quarantine gets to you haha 😳🥰
Why is Phylis the way that she is?
It actually is really good!
Hey Cass, there's a brand on Facebook called Clyde's leather conditioner that have literally stolen your video 🙈 you're making their product look awesome though
Oh my goodness, I just saw your comment! That's crazy! I don't see it there anymore though, they must have taken it down 🤷🏼♀️
@@EquineCass Yes you're right, I can't see it on their page anymore but the ad still pops up in my feed. Unfortunately the video is a status update and I can't get a link for you :(
Wow oh my gosh I see it now. I can't believe how dishonest they are, I'm definitely not using their product!!
@@EquineCass yes I thought so too! Just blatantly stealing your work. I've watched your video a few times when I was looking to do my saddle and I recognized your pink cloth 😆
I wanna do this..but I know I’ll mess it up lmao
god lol(looks good)