I've just "repaired" a PX-310 (same design) with a similar issue - I just played a bit by moving the power jack and maybe the problem was due to the central pin being so thin and maybe it wasn't making contact. Now the PX-310 works. If the problem come back I'd probably forget about that power connector inside the keyboard or installing a new one and having to remove that metal part (such a pita) - those internal psu connectors are prone to failure in due time anyway. I'd rather solder positive and negative wires to another location directly in the board and maybe use an in line connector to receive the jack from the power supply.
Sitting here with a broken PX-110 that took a tumble and stopped powering on. This and your disassembly video have been encouraging and helpful, cheers. I really hope my fault is with the power jack as well, since replacing the boards inside does not look like a fun or cheap procedure. How did you determine that is was the jack? I'm not very versed in poking things with a multimeter. Did yours fail to test for continuity between the jack pole and the inside board?
To be honest I'm not super versed in poking around with a multimeter either. I've tried a few things in the past, but also troubleshooting indicates starting with if the devices is receiving power. The center pin was bent on mine and I crossed my fingers that that was the issue. You can inspect it visually as well if there are any cracks in the board or if any of the wires are loose or pulled out, do the capacitors look swollen? Hopefully it is just that power plug but let us know how it goes!
@@gishinaround745 On further inspection I luckily noticed that a pin connector was knocked out of the pin socket of the sound card! A solder-less fix, how nice is that. I'm pretty surprised that it could get pulled out by a fall, or that the other components did not get damaged first/in tandem, but here we are. Cheers and greetings.
@@1234HonkyTonk1234 Nice! Definitely a win! Honestly when I started making these videos because I would try to find the exact issue i'm facing, but there are so many different issues that I or you may not find, but I'm trying to follow a philosophy of first principles. Might not find an exact answer when googling or searching, but might find enough to make an educated guess. I'm glad it worked out and now I also have something to consider if something doesn't work. Cheers to you as well!
I receive one this keyboard, same problem no power, i have test with multimeters and the voltage is no problem from the jack to the board, but after see the main board of the power and power amplifier i have confused, the vcc line is just go to the katode from diode and induktor, i think it just stop the voltage on the katode and no more happend, or the professor who makes this keyboard have a some reason why it designed like this? 😂 I dont know, sorry for my bad english 😂
No worries on the language. luckily I didn't have any problems with the board itself. If yours wasn't working when it came out of the box I would suggest reaching out to the manufacturer or whoever you got it from about a defective keyboard.
@@gishinaround745 the problem has solved, i didn't expect this keyboard use a reverse polarity power supply, after i change the polarity, all problem solved, 😂😂😂 now i have to fix some buttons are insensitive and don't work, any idea how to fix a dead keys? The pcb path is ok, i think the carbon conductive need to be redraw, if i use a silver conductive paint will it affect the touch sensivity of a key? Or it will work fine like other key? 🙏🙏🙏
@@moskovwicky2225 That's a good catch. I have encountered a few barrel type connectors that are reversed when going between american and european standards
@@moskovwicky2225 I actually have a video where I fix that problem, but it was because the sensors needed cleaning. Since you're is new there may be another issue, but if you've opened it up a few times, maybe something got loose?
@@gishinaround745 in my case, is not just a dirty sensor, i've cleaned the rubber key's carbon and sensor on the pcb board but not solving the dead key, i try to change the rubber dead key with another rubber from normal key but it's still doesn't work, any solution sir? 😥
I received one of these keyboards that wasn't powering on and tested w/ multimeter... no current.. Do you supposed this little jack might be a problem? Thank you so much
Potentially. Definitely start the troubleshooting at that jack if the cable itself is good. You can do continuity checks if your multimeter supports it. It's better than checking with current running
@@gishinaround745 Am I free to use any 12v dc power supply & cable or must I order a specific kind? Also, do you have an idea as to why these jacks break in the first place? Thanks
@@tamsondoan9577 Not really sure. I want to say bad design, but I don't know what good design looks like lol. I think any 12v dc should work. I lost my original OEM one a long time ago and the replace I have works fine I also cut off the barrel end of my cable off to fit the new jack when I made this video and it's still working fine.
I've just "repaired" a PX-310 (same design) with a similar issue - I just played a bit by moving the power jack and maybe the problem was due to the central pin being so thin and maybe it wasn't making contact. Now the PX-310 works.
If the problem come back I'd probably forget about that power connector inside the keyboard or installing a new one and having to remove that metal part (such a pita) - those internal psu connectors are prone to failure in due time anyway. I'd rather solder positive and negative wires to another location directly in the board and maybe use an in line connector to receive the jack from the power supply.
Thank you! Just ordered the jack from the link you provided.
Awesome! Let me know how it goes!
@@gishinaround745 Perfect!!!!! THANK YOU
@@nevetsnolog Awesome! glad to hear!
Sitting here with a broken PX-110 that took a tumble and stopped powering on. This and your disassembly video have been encouraging and helpful, cheers. I really hope my fault is with the power jack as well, since replacing the boards inside does not look like a fun or cheap procedure.
How did you determine that is was the jack? I'm not very versed in poking things with a multimeter. Did yours fail to test for continuity between the jack pole and the inside board?
To be honest I'm not super versed in poking around with a multimeter either. I've tried a few things in the past, but also troubleshooting indicates starting with if the devices is receiving power. The center pin was bent on mine and I crossed my fingers that that was the issue. You can inspect it visually as well if there are any cracks in the board or if any of the wires are loose or pulled out, do the capacitors look swollen? Hopefully it is just that power plug but let us know how it goes!
@@gishinaround745 On further inspection I luckily noticed that a pin connector was knocked out of the pin socket of the sound card! A solder-less fix, how nice is that.
I'm pretty surprised that it could get pulled out by a fall, or that the other components did not get damaged first/in tandem, but here we are.
Cheers and greetings.
@@1234HonkyTonk1234 Nice! Definitely a win! Honestly when I started making these videos because I would try to find the exact issue i'm facing, but there are so many different issues that I or you may not find, but I'm trying to follow a philosophy of first principles. Might not find an exact answer when googling or searching, but might find enough to make an educated guess. I'm glad it worked out and now I also have something to consider if something doesn't work. Cheers to you as well!
I receive one this keyboard, same problem no power, i have test with multimeters and the voltage is no problem from the jack to the board, but after see the main board of the power and power amplifier i have confused, the vcc line is just go to the katode from diode and induktor, i think it just stop the voltage on the katode and no more happend, or the professor who makes this keyboard have a some reason why it designed like this? 😂 I dont know, sorry for my bad english 😂
No worries on the language. luckily I didn't have any problems with the board itself. If yours wasn't working when it came out of the box I would suggest reaching out to the manufacturer or whoever you got it from about a defective keyboard.
@@gishinaround745 the problem has solved, i didn't expect this keyboard use a reverse polarity power supply, after i change the polarity, all problem solved, 😂😂😂 now i have to fix some buttons are insensitive and don't work, any idea how to fix a dead keys? The pcb path is ok, i think the carbon conductive need to be redraw, if i use a silver conductive paint will it affect the touch sensivity of a key? Or it will work fine like other key? 🙏🙏🙏
@@moskovwicky2225 That's a good catch. I have encountered a few barrel type connectors that are reversed when going between american and european standards
@@moskovwicky2225 I actually have a video where I fix that problem, but it was because the sensors needed cleaning. Since you're is new there may be another issue, but if you've opened it up a few times, maybe something got loose?
@@gishinaround745 in my case, is not just a dirty sensor, i've cleaned the rubber key's carbon and sensor on the pcb board but not solving the dead key, i try to change the rubber dead key with another rubber from normal key but it's still doesn't work, any solution sir? 😥
Where did you buy the new power supply jack from?
Never mind, found it! Thanks!
Nice!
I received one of these keyboards that wasn't powering on and tested w/ multimeter... no current.. Do you supposed this little jack might be a problem? Thank you so much
Potentially. Definitely start the troubleshooting at that jack if the cable itself is good. You can do continuity checks if your multimeter supports it. It's better than checking with current running
@@gishinaround745 Am I free to use any 12v dc power supply & cable or must I order a specific kind? Also, do you have an idea as to why these jacks break in the first place? Thanks
@@tamsondoan9577 Not really sure. I want to say bad design, but I don't know what good design looks like lol. I think any 12v dc should work. I lost my original OEM one a long time ago and the replace I have works fine I also cut off the barrel end of my cable off to fit the new jack when I made this video and it's still working fine.
@@gishinaround745 Just resoldered a new jack.. Gets power now but still no luck. I guess the board is done for 😔 they can't all be fixers
@@tamsondoan9577 😥 RIP