I've been looking for something like this so I can make myself about 20 coloring pencil trays that come with most pencil sets in the Tin so I can stack all my pencils in the drawers of my art tool box. Thanks I hope I can pull this off
Hi, thanks for taking the trouble to put up the method. My main question is about the strength and or flex of the finished item. Not knowing a lot about the material used I can only go on similar bodies made of two part that I have seen. Those have been quite thick and are prone to cracking and breaking. I should add that the bodies I have seen are for slot cars of various types. So my question is: is there a two part that is as resilient as plastic. Look forward the the replies.
You skipped from pulling the part to a finished body. I'd say that's a pretty big leap and a bit deceptive, don't you think? When you showed all the vent holes being drilled and how they were all over the body of the car including the center line 9:42, I find it hard to believe that the finished product you show came from that mold. That mold does not even look like the same model as the finished product, it has much less detail. If it did come from that mold, I would have liked to see what the part looked like fresh out of the mold without clean up. It must have looked like a porcupine with all the sprues. Please correct me if I'm misunderstanding the process. Thank you.
the mold and the finished product do look the same. it is quite a jump but the process seems straight forward. its possible that he accidentally broke this one while removing the sprues and didnt show that and used a second run as the final product image to keep the video consistent
at 9:42 that shows the part of the mold that forms the inside of the model which he never shows so any detail there isnt reflected in the finished product
Only a moron would think there won't be any vestiges from sprues and vents. They are obviously cut and sanded off. Also, pay attention...these air vents are on the core side of the tool, not the cavity side which creates the outside surface. It would look like an inside out porcupine.
De-molding this is an absolute nightmare. All the vents are embedded in the mold and are part of the piece being cast, meaning it's trapped in the mold. The amount of cleaning and repairing required with this method is fine for a one of, but trying to make more several copies.... no thanks!
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I needed this video THANK YOU! 🤣 I'm trying to silicone cast a piece that has thin walls and this was the easiest method.
I've been looking for something like this so I can make myself about 20 coloring pencil trays that come with most pencil sets in the Tin so I can stack all my pencils in the drawers of my art tool box. Thanks I hope I can pull this off
Hi, thanks for taking the trouble to put up the method. My main question is about the strength and or flex of the finished item. Not knowing a lot about the material used I can only go on similar bodies made of two part that I have seen. Those have been quite thick and are prone to cracking and breaking. I should add that the bodies I have seen are for slot cars of various types. So my question is: is there a two part that is as resilient as plastic.
Look forward the the replies.
Our KastEZ Resin is what you are looking for
You skipped from pulling the part to a finished body. I'd say that's a pretty big leap and a bit deceptive, don't you think? When you showed all the vent holes being drilled and how they were all over the body of the car including the center line 9:42, I find it hard to believe that the finished product you show came from that mold. That mold does not even look like the same model as the finished product, it has much less detail. If it did come from that mold, I would have liked to see what the part looked like fresh out of the mold without clean up. It must have looked like a porcupine with all the sprues. Please correct me if I'm misunderstanding the process. Thank you.
the mold and the finished product do look the same. it is quite a jump but the process seems straight forward. its possible that he accidentally broke this one while removing the sprues and didnt show that and used a second run as the final product image to keep the video consistent
at 9:42 that shows the part of the mold that forms the inside of the model which he never shows so any detail there isnt reflected in the finished product
Only a moron would think there won't be any vestiges from sprues and vents. They are obviously cut and sanded off. Also, pay attention...these air vents are on the core side of the tool, not the cavity side which creates the outside surface. It would look like an inside out porcupine.
De-molding this is an absolute nightmare. All the vents are embedded in the mold and are part of the piece being cast, meaning it's trapped in the mold. The amount of cleaning and repairing required with this method is fine for a one of, but trying to make more several copies.... no thanks!
@@auxpower13 I agree. Surely this isn't how styrene plastic model car kit bodies are made ?