Great video. Thank you for the help. I just replaced both valves and potentiometers. My front venturi tube would not come off, and I was able to do the repair without removing it. All I did was remove that middle piece in the top of the stove, between the two sets of burners (minute 10 in the video). You then remove the two sheetmetal covers from the valves by removing the 4 screws (minute 12:40-13:20). You do not need to remove the third piece of sheetmetal on the far left side of the stove. Undo the 4 wires and the 4 gas connection nuts (1/2 inch wrench). Directly below the valves are two screws that hold the bracket to the sheetmetal below it. You can see the left side rear screw on 14:22, and the right side front shiny screw on 15:07. You will need a shorty screwdriver to unscrew them. Undo those 2 screws, and the valve units will come out with the sheetmetal cage that surrounds it. Then you can unscrew the valve(s) from the sheetmetal cage, and replace them. Put it back in reverse order. If the two burner nuts on the right side of the stove are not frozen, then you could remove the right side burners and black tray to give you more room to do the work on the left side. But it is not necessary. Everything now works perfectly on my stove, and I didn't have to remove the stuck venturi tube.
10:15 Burner nut removal requires REQUIRES a 20 mm full flush socket.ONLY ! Apply penetrating oil on nuts 24 hours in advance. Watch underneath to see of the orifice holder starts to rotate as you remove the nut. if the orifice holder rotates you will break the irreplaceable gas line. Disconnect Gasoline if orifice holder starts to rotate. Then hold orifice holder with a 8" vise grip pliers You can not hold the orifice holder with the gas line attached. IT WILL BREAK.
Thanks very much for taking time to make this video. I found my problem at the 'square circuit board' (potentiometer) just behind the knob. Heard a buzzing sound last night and then gas wouldn't flow even though igniter was still working. After I swapped the left front and back board, I found my problem. Thing is, this potentiometer is discontinued, and I have to cross-ref. to find a match, lol. UA-cam is such a great learning resource for everyone.
This is a terrific video and service to the public. I loved it. I used the video to help me address a slow flame on the right side of this stove (which by the way did not require a solenoid replacement). A couple of comments about the video: 1) the front brass nut/tube that held down the front right burner disk was extremely difficult to remove in my case and I practically stripped it when trying to remove (after 15 years ownership all the heating/cooling has made the threaded connection seemingly welded on). By contrast the rear nut came right off (because we don't use rear burners nearly as often as front). At the very least one should use the exact 20mm hex socket to avoid stripping. 2) To your safety commentary I would add a warning that there are extremely sharp edges/corners on the interior sheet metal components. It's very easy to slice yourself when pulling/poking around on the inside of this stove if you aren't careful.
Thanks for this video. You have given hope to people that are stuck with a very expensive appliance that comes with poor support. Thank you for your very clear and straight forward video.
Excellent instruction. Was not my problem, but learned how to track down a problem and the process of disassembly and labeling as well as safety precautions. Video was right on target.
This video helped me prepare to replace either my gas valve (solenoid) or potentiometer on the range on my boat. In particular, it wasn't clear how to access these components but the video helped a bunch. BTW, I have the exact same symptoms as in the video. Thank you for taking the time to record this video.
This video was VERY helpful for me in diagnosing my Thermador PRG366 (36" 6 burner version of the one in this video). I had a few igniters that were bad and wanted to replace the drip pans. However... ALL of the gas venturi "nuts" were frozen (basically welded to the "gas tube" assy below), so I had to cut through the hex top or each, and basically obliterate each one of them (6 total) in order to get the drip pans out and replace my ignitors. If you have to do this, you also have to replace the gas tube assy that the venturi nuts connect to. So... to replace a few ignitors (at approx $20 each), I spend upwards of $350.00 replacing 6 gas tube assy, 6 venturi nuts, any all 6 ignitors. As far as the drip pans, you can't get them anymore, so I did several oven cleaner treatments as well as some good 'ol elbow grease stainless steel pad scrubbing and they are finally clean. ***Important note: When the guy in the video says "it's very important to unplug the power", he means it. I did not do this when I was testing one of the simmer switches (which he swaps in this video when troubleshooting), and I ended up blowing out my spark/simmer controller (to the tune of $180), but this was self-inflicted. If I had listed to the video, this would not have happened. GREAT VIDEO, and thanks for posting it!
+Dan Herron How do you drill out those venturi tubes. I have 5/6 frozen, and I want to replace some parts before they become unavailable. I have a Prse366s 6 burner gas/electric range...
The best way I found is to actually use a multi-tool with a metal cutting "blade". The blades are curved (1/2 round), so I just seat the blade on top of the venturi and cut it until it starts hitting the burner plate below it. I then shift the blade (like slicing a pizza) until I have 3 cuts total (6 "slices"). Then, just chisel (hammer & screwdriver) each notch in towards the center and basically fold it in on itself. This ruins the gas venturi mount that it is in too, but you can't really avoid that. Good luck and let me know if you need anything else!
+Dan Herron re: this solution, I could save money by using a portable hacksaw, right? And if I ruin the tube that holds this venturing tube, I am not sure if there are replacements(tube and nut)?
I can pretty much guarantee you will ruin the gas tube connector when you cut/saw the brass gas tube itself. The reason you can't remove the brass tube "nut" in the first place is because the tube and tube connector are now welded together. You will need the following once you figure out how you are gong to cut the brass venturi tube. www.repairclinic.com/vwo7/PartDetail/Thermador-Range-Stove-Oven-Gas-Tube-Or-Connector/00415498/1021753?modelNumber=PRG366&ss=a13b115d200416&mr=1 www.repairclinic.com/vwo7/PartDetail/Thermador-Range-Stove-Oven-Gas-Tube-Or-Connector/00189023/1044401?modelNumber=PRG366&ss=a13b115d200416&mr=1
+Dan Herron thank you i am ready to go..how do I remove the light lenses which are baked on? Both of my lightbulbs are burnt out. Thanks for your assistance.
Thank you for the clip. I have a brand new PRG304WH and the tiler worker during cleanup put scratches on the front top and left flat stainless steel. So we are looking at either having those pieces reworked, or replaced. Happily it looks like the front piece is pretty pretty simple affair. Not so sure about the side panel, but your clip shows some of what is needed to get to the screws holding the top of it in place.
I found a very easy way to fix my stove. Pull off the center stainless steel spacer on top between the left and right burners. Shut off the gas, look under the top plate and you can see the gas valves. There are two of them that are mounted to a mounting plate. There are two screws holding down this plate, remove the screws, unplug the 4 electric connectors and disconnect the 4 gas lines from the valves. Now the entire valve assembly will come out, remove the bad valve and then just reinstall. The entire job took 30 min, very easy.
Such an informative video, thank you so much. Also viewers should check the jet and try to clear the hole b4 getting the solenoid. Its a pin hole that could be clogged causing restrictions in gas flow
You do a great job of explaining and showing what you are doing! I don't have the same appliances as you but it seems your methods would work on almost any appliance. Looking forward to seeing all your videos, thanks again and great job!
FWIW, my symptoms were the same as yours - the ignitor was working but no gas. The problem was the potentiometer behind the knob, not the gas valve. So doing the small board swap test at the beginning of this video is worthwhile before you jump to the conclusion that it's a $150 valve.
Thanks for the video. I got my favorite burner working again. It was that chip thing that you first switched to test. It is called a potentiometer. I got the Bosch replacemnent part and I am back to 4 burners. Thanks again.
Hi, I have exactly the same problem. When I changed out the potentiometer my burner started working again. Now, can you tell me where you purchased your replacement part. I have part number AP2825521, but cannot find it anywhere. Thanks. Johns video was fantastic.
The PRSG304 is a good gas range but Thermador managed to get you with the simmer control module, it's available no more. If it's your case, forget the simmer function. The control module 00422882 can be found on e-bay but doesn't worth it. Remove the simmer control board, the 2 solenoid valves and the 2 potiometers. It's a bit of work but the XLO burners become as normal ones. You'll probably have to order 2 burner kits since it cannot be dismantle to do the job (surface orifice burner 00415498, nut 00188978, venturi 00189023) + 2 male-male union 1/4 OD and some flexible 1/4 OD aluminum pipe (the existing pipe for the back burner can be re-use if you bend it a bit). You can easily find videos of how to grind the venturi tube to gain access to the valves. At that point, there is no automatic spark on those burners. To add the spark control, you need to install micro switches on each of those valves. I did so using the same switch used on the other burners (00428049). I made myself 2 little plates and found a way to install those switch horizontally (switch pin under the valve shaft). You can oversize the micro switches holes for 6/32 screws for easy mounting on the plate). The existing valve holes used to hold the potentiometer can be easily tapped for M4 bolts (I used only the top hole of the valve to hold the plate). Bring 120V on those switches and tie each one on respective SW1 & SW2 of the spark module. You now have spark control. Removing the simmer control module, you have to jump the SW cable on 120V so the spark module stays on (and so is the pilot light). You could also add control using 4 small SSR (solid state relay) for each of the micro switches. Those relays contact would need to be wired in parallel to ignite the spark module. With all those modifications, you have a fully functional gas range, without simmer control.
Had to work on one of these ranges today...knew it was the solenoids that were no good but was unsure how to take unit apart to replace...thank u, ur video really helped me out.
Your vedeo was very well made. You took time to show everything step by step .you gave a good disassemble and assemble as you took your time to show how to trouble shoot the problem thank you for the well made repair.
Yes, this was very helpful. I have a Thermador 5 burner cooktop, not a range, but it confirmed what I suspected, the gas reg/gauge might the problem. Now I'll just order the parts and hopefully it will solve the issue. Thanks!
Thanks for the video. I have a slightly different model Thermador Range with star burners. Had the same problem with the solenoid valve for the gas flow control needing replacement. Your video gave me the confidence to verify the problem and fix it myself!
Thank you so much. This is really a great video with crystal clear instructions. We have the exact same model and problem which started happening when I turned the knob too fast one time. It felt as if some connection broke. If the problem is not the electronic board, and before buying the valve (around $122 today), could there be another reason (some loose connection?) why gas is not flowing to the burner? Thank you again for the excellent video.
For those that are having trouble removing the nut at the top of the stove, check out the video "Thermador PRG304US Removal of Venturi Tube" It shows you how to drill them out.
10:15 Burner nut removal requires REQUIRES a 20 mm full flush socket.ONLY ! Apply penetrating oil on nuts 24 hours in advance. Watch underneath to see of the orifice holder starts to rotate as you remove the nut. if the orifice holder rotates you will break the irreplaceable gas line. Disconnect Gasoline if orifice holder starts to rotate. Then hold orifice holder with a 8" vise grip pliers You can not hold the orifice holder with the gas line attached. IT WILL BREAK.
It is a rare but great Thing to see someone who knows how to work safely. You are a good instructor But you should NEVER put parts on the floor to be stepped on . That creates a safety hazard for others. Put parts in labeled zip-lock bags.
Perfect! Just what I needed. My left front burner cuts out sometimes when it’s too hot. I am assuming it’s a bad valve as well.Thanks again for the video!
You should install a gas trap. When the gas enters through the wall it is a 4” pipe. Like a T-fitting. The heavier particles will fall instead of entering into the gas valve or regulator. Nice work
Thanks for this helpful video! Please I use a Maxi Gas cooker, all four control knobs give off a strange sound when turned on, and then the flame spreads beyond the burner top to surrounding areas. Please I need assistance to fix it.
Very detailed teardown, problem solving video. I have a gas oven, everything works fine, only issue is when i set the temp for rotisserie and turn it on motor, it won't work, the oven lights and fan stops working too, but as soon as oven cools down, they all work fine. What could be the issue?! Point me to anything which I should check for in steps. Thanks a bunch!
Thank you very much for the step by step procedure. Will you be doing a tutorial on repairing a door hinge on a thermador range? I have a situation with one of those in need of a repair.
Excellent and informative presentation. I have a similar model range where the left front burner puts out a lower flame output than all the others. I use this burner the most, ironically. Trying to diagnose in order to give a repair tech some guidance. Have had very ppoor experiences with "authorized Thermadore" techs. Any thoughts on this issue, thanks?
There are somethings in this world you cannot put a price on. This is one. Appreciate the thought, the effort and willingness to share. My model # is SGSX365ZX, and pilot wont lite. Need to replace it. is it fairly simple to replace or something like this video? :(
Excellent demonstration!!! I have exactly the same model although no spark and gas flow on the two left burners. Not sure what part to order, ignitor or solenoid. Please advise. And again thank you so much for the video.
Just need to know for tonight one of the burners is not working at all only when I light it with a newspaper is that okay until I get help for tomorrow
Thanks for the excellent and very clear video. I'm working on the same unit with precisely the same problem, but am a bit confused. From reading commentary at appliance parts and looking at the diagrams, there are only two solenoids in this unit. One controls the left two burners, one the right two. So if only one burner is out (as in your case and mine), the solenoid should not be the problem. At 14:30 you indicate the inner of the two solenoids controls the front. So, I'm confused. Are there actually 4 solenoids in this unit (two hidden on the right hand side)? Or is there another pair of solenoids that control gas flow to the left pair and right pair separately? Thanks again!
Definitely the 2 solenoids shown are for the left 2 burners. 1 for each of the left burners. To be perfectly honest I am not sure of the controls for the right side burners. Maybe someone else reading or commenting can chime in and help us out?
alwayscan21 Thanks. You were correct. This solenoid did the trick for my malfunctioning front left burner. There are two solenoids (as seen in the video), which control the left burners. These are used for the "X-tra low" feature, which cycles the flame on and off. The right burners don't have this feature, thus no extra solenoids. If you read any comments on parts supply pages which say a single solenoid controls both left burners and so one burner out can't be the solenoid, ignore this incorrect information. A few tips for others getting into this project: the "Venturi" brass nuts/tubes which secure the burner plate take a 20mm socket. Mine were both rusted fast to the silver jet holders underneath which connect to the end of the gas lines. I managed to break these holders just by applying some muscle (unavoidable), and then used vice grips below as I continued to unscrew to remove the broken bits. In the process I also kinked the gas lines. If I had first unscrewed the gas supply from each I could have saved some time and money on those parts. Also, I was able to lift and replace the top plate without removing the front cover behind the dials. Thanks again for a great video!
For the people who mention the gas coming on and off constantly while the oven is heating, I (fortunately) bought a warranty for mine that I extend continuously. I get this every so often. The repair guy says it's the "ignition" and it goes out every 4-5 years. I believe it's several hundred dollars to replace.
at 7:25 you are unplugging these "white plugs" from the square brown electronic boards. this white plug broke, can you please tell me what the name is or where i can find it? thank you so much....
Nice video. Do you have any footage or instructions on further disassembling to replace the oven insulation? Mice got into our PRG36 and there is a very bad smell... Is it kaput?
Your video inspired me to troubleshoot the same problem on my Thermador Model SGCS365RS Gas Cooktop. My first step was to swap potentiometers between the two XLO simmer burners. Unfortunately, I could never get the plug disconnected from either of the potentiometers. Tried everyway I could think of to get these plugs off. Was able to at least move the potentiometer with the plug attached from the front simmer burner to the rear simmer burner. The problem followed to the rear simmer burner so I'm fairly certain the potentiometer is the problem. Before ordering a replacement could you provide me with some guidance on removing the plug from the potentiometer?
Hello there. I have the exact Thermador range. The back left burner ignites but it makes the rest of the burners click when I turn it on. All other burners work. Also, the front right burner does not reach high. It seems to only get to about Medium???
I have the same issue the front burner on a Thermador PGR364GL but when you turn the gas on the igniter works and gas comes out what do you think could be the problem? Great video as well
great video, except the venturi tubes were very loose and easy to remove for you, and this is not the case with my stove top. How do I remove them if they are COMPLETELY stuck? thanks!
My front venturi tube would not come off, and I was able to do the repair without removing it. All I did was remove that middle piece in the top of the stove, between the two sets of burners (minute 10 in the video). You then remove the two sheetmetal covers from the valves by removing the 4 screws (minute @-@). You do not need to remove the third piece of sheetmetal on the far left side of the stove. Undo the 4 wires and the 4 gas connection nuts (1/2 inch wrench). Directly below the valves are two screws that hold the bracket to the sheetmetal below it. You can see the left side rear screw on @, and the right side front shiny screw on @. You will need a shorty screwdriver to unscrew them. Undo those 2 screws, and the valve units will come out with the sheetmetal cage that surrounds it. Then you can unscrew the valve(s) from the sheetmetal cage, and replace them. Put it back in reverse order. If the two burner nuts on the right side of the stove are not frozen, then you could remove the right side burners and black tray to give you more room to do the work on the left side. But it is not necessary. Everything now works perfectly on my stove, and I didn't have to remove the stuck venturi tube.
Necesito de tus servicio para una estufa prácticamente igual es la misma marca solo que más grande y tiene el problema de la válvula como te contacto? O donde tienes taller?
hi thank you for the video it's helpful...but I have a question I have the two left side no gas coming out at all and the igniter does not work two .So do you thing if no gas coming out the igniter should not work? or can I clean those gas valves
We have a 17 year old Thermador dual fuel downdraft slide-in RDSS30. The left front on/off simmer burner will not work properly. When it comes on, the clock and timer stop functioning and also the oven. I have been told by several appliance people that no parts are available. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks...
I have a Thermador PRG366US. I changed the spark module, but when the stove gets hot the ignitors quit working and I can't light additional burners except with an external flame.
I have a Singer 4 burner stove with gas oven like this. It has low flame in all burners in different amounts. I changed the gas regulator fixed to the gas cylinder but it did not make any change. What will be the course for this. Please help me.
Great video, thanks! I wonder if you could do a video on how to read interpret the blinking lights on a malfunctioning thermador oven? Mine currently won't bake, and has no display but the lights blink in a pattern. A technician once knew the code by watching the lights, but he never explained the trick to me, and Thermador customer service flat-out refuses to tell me, because they want me to hire a "qualified Thermador service technician."
Great video. Thank you for the help. I just replaced both valves and potentiometers. My front venturi tube would not come off, and I was able to do the repair without removing it. All I did was remove that middle piece in the top of the stove, between the two sets of burners (minute 10 in the video). You then remove the two sheetmetal covers from the valves by removing the 4 screws (minute 12:40-13:20). You do not need to remove the third piece of sheetmetal on the far left side of the stove. Undo the 4 wires and the 4 gas connection nuts (1/2 inch wrench). Directly below the valves are two screws that hold the bracket to the sheetmetal below it. You can see the left side rear screw on 14:22, and the right side front shiny screw on 15:07. You will need a shorty screwdriver to unscrew them. Undo those 2 screws, and the valve units will come out with the sheetmetal cage that surrounds it. Then you can unscrew the valve(s) from the sheetmetal cage, and replace them. Put it back in reverse order.
If the two burner nuts on the right side of the stove are not frozen, then you could remove the right side burners and black tray to give you more room to do the work on the left side. But it is not necessary.
Everything now works perfectly on my stove, and I didn't have to remove the stuck venturi tube.
10:15 Burner nut removal requires REQUIRES a 20 mm full flush socket.ONLY !
Apply penetrating oil on nuts 24 hours in advance.
Watch underneath to see of the orifice holder starts to rotate as you remove the nut. if the orifice holder rotates you will break the irreplaceable gas line.
Disconnect Gasoline if orifice holder starts to rotate. Then hold orifice holder with a 8" vise grip pliers You can not hold the orifice holder with the gas line attached. IT WILL BREAK.
Thanks very much for taking time to make this video. I found my problem at the 'square circuit board' (potentiometer) just behind the knob. Heard a buzzing sound last night and then gas wouldn't flow even though igniter was still working. After I swapped the left front and back board, I found my problem. Thing is, this potentiometer is discontinued, and I have to cross-ref. to find a match, lol. UA-cam is such a great learning resource for everyone.
This is a terrific video and service to the public. I loved it. I used the video to help me address a slow flame on the right side of this stove (which by the way did not require a solenoid replacement). A couple of comments about the video:
1) the front brass nut/tube that held down the front right burner disk was extremely difficult to remove in my case and I practically stripped it when trying to remove (after 15 years ownership all the heating/cooling has made the threaded connection seemingly welded on). By contrast the rear nut came right off (because we don't use rear burners nearly as often as front). At the very least one should use the exact 20mm hex socket to avoid stripping.
2) To your safety commentary I would add a warning that there are extremely sharp edges/corners on the interior sheet metal components. It's very easy to slice yourself when pulling/poking around on the inside of this stove if you aren't careful.
Hello drahdert - I have a similar problem with very low flame on the burners that have been used more frequently. How did you fix the problem?
Thanks for this video. You have given hope to people that are stuck with a very expensive appliance that comes with poor support. Thank you for your very clear and straight forward video.
Thank you for smoothly walking through this job. Well done.
Excellent instruction. Was not my problem, but learned how to track down a problem and the process of disassembly and labeling as well as safety precautions. Video was right on target.
One of the best You Tube videos I have seen... Precise, clear cut and presented in a good sequence with usable information...
Thank you....
This video helped me prepare to replace either my gas valve (solenoid) or potentiometer on the range on my boat. In particular, it wasn't clear how to access these components but the video helped a bunch. BTW, I have the exact same symptoms as in the video. Thank you for taking the time to record this video.
Excellent explanation with step by step directions. Great video.
This video was VERY helpful for me in diagnosing my Thermador PRG366 (36" 6 burner version of the one in this video). I had a few igniters that were bad and wanted to replace the drip pans. However... ALL of the gas venturi "nuts" were frozen (basically welded to the "gas tube" assy below), so I had to cut through the hex top or each, and basically obliterate each one of them (6 total) in order to get the drip pans out and replace my ignitors. If you have to do this, you also have to replace the gas tube assy that the venturi nuts connect to. So... to replace a few ignitors (at approx $20 each), I spend upwards of $350.00 replacing 6 gas tube assy, 6 venturi nuts, any all 6 ignitors. As far as the drip pans, you can't get them anymore, so I did several oven cleaner treatments as well as some good 'ol elbow grease stainless steel pad scrubbing and they are finally clean. ***Important note: When the guy in the video says "it's very important to unplug the power", he means it. I did not do this when I was testing one of the simmer switches (which he swaps in this video when troubleshooting), and I ended up blowing out my spark/simmer controller (to the tune of $180), but this was self-inflicted. If I had listed to the video, this would not have happened. GREAT VIDEO, and thanks for posting it!
+Dan Herron How do you drill out those venturi tubes. I have 5/6 frozen, and I want to replace some parts before they become unavailable. I have a Prse366s 6 burner gas/electric range...
The best way I found is to actually use a multi-tool with a metal cutting "blade". The blades are curved (1/2 round), so I just seat the blade on top of the venturi and cut it until it starts hitting the burner plate below it. I then shift the blade (like slicing a pizza) until I have 3 cuts total (6 "slices"). Then, just chisel (hammer & screwdriver) each notch in towards the center and basically fold it in on itself. This ruins the gas venturi mount that it is in too, but you can't really avoid that. Good luck and let me know if you need anything else!
+Dan Herron re: this solution, I could save money by using a portable hacksaw, right? And if I ruin the tube that holds this venturing tube, I am not sure if there are replacements(tube and nut)?
I can pretty much guarantee you will ruin the gas tube connector when you cut/saw the brass gas tube itself. The reason you can't remove the brass tube "nut" in the first place is because the tube and tube connector are now welded together. You will need the following once you figure out how you are gong to cut the brass venturi tube.
www.repairclinic.com/vwo7/PartDetail/Thermador-Range-Stove-Oven-Gas-Tube-Or-Connector/00415498/1021753?modelNumber=PRG366&ss=a13b115d200416&mr=1
www.repairclinic.com/vwo7/PartDetail/Thermador-Range-Stove-Oven-Gas-Tube-Or-Connector/00189023/1044401?modelNumber=PRG366&ss=a13b115d200416&mr=1
+Dan Herron thank you i am ready to go..how do I remove the light lenses which are baked on? Both of my lightbulbs are burnt out. Thanks for your assistance.
Thank you for the clip. I have a brand new PRG304WH and the tiler worker during cleanup put scratches on the front top and left flat stainless steel. So we are looking at either having those pieces reworked, or replaced. Happily it looks like the front piece is pretty pretty simple affair. Not so sure about the side panel, but your clip shows some of what is needed to get to the screws holding the top of it in place.
This video gave me a lot of confidence to "fix it myself". My repair worked out great!
Thanks very much!
Excellent video, i needed to replace the igniters and had no idea how to get into the cover. Thank you !!
I found a very easy way to fix my stove. Pull off the center stainless steel spacer on top between the left and right burners. Shut off the gas, look under the top plate and you can see the gas valves. There are two of them that are mounted to a mounting plate. There are two screws holding down this plate, remove the screws, unplug the 4 electric connectors and disconnect the 4 gas lines from the valves. Now the entire valve assembly will come out, remove the bad valve and then just reinstall. The entire job took 30 min, very easy.
Such an informative video, thank you so much. Also viewers should check the jet and try to clear the hole b4 getting the solenoid. Its a pin hole that could be clogged causing restrictions in gas flow
You do a great job of explaining and showing what you are doing! I don't have the same appliances as you but it seems your methods would work on almost any appliance. Looking forward to seeing all your videos, thanks again and great job!
Hi !!! what if that gas valve was not getting any voltage ??? you install a new one, and still not working, then what ??? Cheers🍻
FWIW, my symptoms were the same as yours - the ignitor was working but no gas. The problem was the potentiometer behind the knob, not the gas valve. So doing the small board swap test at the beginning of this video is worthwhile before you jump to the conclusion that it's a $150 valve.
Thank U. This video is very helpful. Your clarity and organizational tips are so appreciated.
Truly relevant and bypasses those vids showing to just clean the burner with a paper clip. thank you
Thanks for the video. I got my favorite burner working again. It was that chip thing that you first switched to test. It is called a potentiometer. I got the Bosch replacemnent part and I am back to 4 burners. Thanks again.
Joan Bolduc fantastic!!!
Hi, I have exactly the same problem. When I changed out the potentiometer my burner started working again. Now, can you tell me where you purchased your replacement part. I have part number AP2825521, but cannot find it anywhere. Thanks. Johns video was fantastic.
The PRSG304 is a good gas range but Thermador managed to get you with the simmer control module, it's available no more. If it's your case, forget the simmer function. The control module 00422882 can be found on e-bay but doesn't worth it. Remove the simmer control board, the 2 solenoid valves and the 2 potiometers. It's a bit of work but the XLO burners become as normal ones. You'll probably have to order 2 burner kits since it cannot be dismantle to do the job (surface orifice burner 00415498, nut 00188978, venturi 00189023) + 2 male-male union 1/4 OD and some flexible 1/4 OD aluminum pipe (the existing pipe for the back burner can be re-use if you bend it a bit). You can easily find videos of how to grind the venturi tube to gain access to the valves.
At that point, there is no automatic spark on those burners. To add the spark control, you need to install micro switches on each of those valves. I did so using the same switch used on the other burners (00428049). I made myself 2 little plates and found a way to install those switch horizontally (switch pin under the valve shaft). You can oversize the micro switches holes for 6/32 screws for easy mounting on the plate). The existing valve holes used to hold the potentiometer can be easily tapped for M4 bolts (I used only the top hole of the valve to hold the plate). Bring 120V on those switches and tie each one on respective SW1 & SW2 of the spark module. You now have spark control.
Removing the simmer control module, you have to jump the SW cable on 120V so the spark module stays on (and so is the pilot light). You could also add control using 4 small SSR (solid state relay) for each of the micro switches. Those relays contact would need to be wired in parallel to ignite the spark module.
With all those modifications, you have a fully functional gas range, without simmer control.
Brilliantly filmed and explained. Thanks very much.
Had to work on one of these ranges today...knew it was the solenoids that were no good but was unsure how to take unit apart to replace...thank u, ur video really helped me out.
Thank you, I need to get to that control board on our unit and this video gets me there! I was attacking my range from the wrong angle!
Your vedeo was very well made. You took time to show everything step by step .you gave a good disassemble and assemble as you took your time to show how to trouble shoot the problem thank you for the well made repair.
Yes, this was very helpful. I have a Thermador 5 burner cooktop, not a range, but it confirmed what I suspected, the gas reg/gauge might the problem. Now I'll just order the parts and hopefully it will solve the issue. Thanks!
Nice vid... would have liked to see a diagnosis of the gas valve... whether it was the coil shorted out, or valve body restricted.
Thanks for the video. I have a slightly different model Thermador Range with star burners. Had the same problem with the solenoid valve for the gas flow control needing replacement. Your video gave me the confidence to verify the problem and fix it myself!
Thanks! Great video! I have the same problem with the same burner. Hopefully now, I'll be able to repair it. Thanks again!!!
Thank you so much. This is really a great video with crystal clear instructions. We have the exact same model and problem which started happening when I turned the knob too fast one time. It felt as if some connection broke. If the problem is not the electronic board, and before buying the valve (around $122 today), could there be another reason (some loose connection?) why gas is not flowing to the burner? Thank you again for the excellent video.
For those that are having trouble removing the nut at the top of the stove, check out the video "Thermador PRG304US Removal of Venturi Tube" It shows you how to drill them out.
EXCELLENT explanation and demonstration. Thank you.
BEFORE you tear things apart, just unplug it, and plug it in again. I got my 2 left burners back by this reset. Cheers.
I agree traffic video very well done and complete great cautions also.
Looking forward to other videos thank you for A clear presentation!
10:15 Burner nut removal requires REQUIRES a 20 mm full flush socket.ONLY !
Apply penetrating oil on nuts 24 hours in advance.
Watch underneath to see of the orifice holder starts to rotate as you remove the nut. if the orifice holder rotates you will break the irreplaceable gas line.
Disconnect Gasoline if orifice holder starts to rotate. Then hold orifice holder with a 8" vise grip pliers You can not hold the orifice holder with the gas line attached. IT WILL BREAK.
so that was the gas relief valve. Good video there. i also have an igniter that is not working. ill just try to replace that as well. Thank you.
Thank you very much for the excellent video.
Especially like the way you emphasize the safety concerns.
Yes good video thank you.
It is a rare but great Thing to see someone who knows how to work safely. You are a good instructor But you should NEVER put parts on the floor to be stepped on . That creates a safety hazard for others. Put parts in labeled zip-lock bags.
Perfect! Just what I needed. My left front burner cuts out sometimes when it’s too hot. I am assuming it’s a bad valve as well.Thanks again for the video!
Excellent video. I learned from it how to open up the control panel on my **electric** stove, so now I can make the necessary repair.
You should install a gas trap. When the gas enters through the wall it is a 4” pipe. Like a T-fitting. The heavier particles will fall instead of entering into the gas valve or regulator. Nice work
very nice video & very informative a wish most videos could be this good
Fascinating! Thank you So Much for allowing us to see the privy parts of an oven and stove top! You obviously know what you are doing! :D Yeah!
Thanks for this helpful video!
Please I use a Maxi Gas cooker, all four control knobs give off a strange sound when turned on, and then the flame spreads beyond the burner top to surrounding areas.
Please I need assistance to fix it.
Very detailed teardown, problem solving video. I have a gas oven, everything works fine, only issue is when i set the temp for rotisserie and turn it on motor, it won't work, the oven lights and fan stops working too, but as soon as oven cools down, they all work fine. What could be the issue?! Point me to anything which I should check for in steps. Thanks a bunch!
Great job, Thanks for the video. I'm fixing mine now.
I liked it. thought it was very easy to follow instructions and explanation's of repair.
look forward to other video's.
Thank you for the video. Looks like it was real headache to work on this stove :-)
Igor 'Roy' Ye thanks for watching!
Thank you very much for this nicely done video,
Thank you. That was excellent video.
Thank you very much for the step by step procedure.
Will you be doing a tutorial on repairing a door hinge on a thermador range? I have a situation with one of those in need of a repair.
Thanks for taking the time to post this.
Excellent video. I learned a lot. Keep up the good work.
Thanks
Excellent and informative presentation. I have a similar model range where the left front burner puts out a lower flame output than all the others. I use this burner the most, ironically. Trying to diagnose in order to give a repair tech some guidance. Have had very ppoor experiences with "authorized Thermadore" techs. Any thoughts on this issue, thanks?
thanks for sharing your knowledge
There are somethings in this world you cannot put a price on. This is one. Appreciate the thought, the effort and willingness to share. My model # is SGSX365ZX, and pilot wont lite. Need to replace it. is it fairly simple to replace or something like this video? :(
Great video!!! I have the same stove with the exact same burner location that went out. Thanks Much.
What's better for detecting a gas leak in a stove gas leak detection fluid or a gas detector ?
What about an igniter that is sparking and gas is present but the spark just won't light? Great video.
I have the exact same problem - going to try it now. Thanks for the video.
gas valve solenoid? Bosch OEM Part #00411253? Is this the part?
Such a good video thank you so much!
Excellent demonstration!!! I have exactly the same model although no spark and gas flow on the two left burners. Not sure what part to order, ignitor or solenoid. Please advise. And again thank you so much for the video.
My best guess would be the ignitor. If you are getting gas flow, the solenoid should be operating just fine. Thank you for the positive comment!
Me gustó mucho el video está muy explicito, gracias
Excellent video thank you very much
Striped the Venturi top nut to remove burner . Cannot get out. What you recommend in removing. Used wd-40 to loosen but no luck. Thanks
Might be prudent to leak check the gas connections at the new valve before closing? At least ahead of the valve?
Just need to know for tonight one of the burners is not working at all only when I light it with a newspaper is that okay until I get help for tomorrow
What size wrench did you use to remove the nut holding the gas burner bases the gas flows through?
I measure 20.2mm.
Thanks for the excellent and very clear video. I'm working on the same unit with precisely the same problem, but am a bit confused. From reading commentary at appliance parts and looking at the diagrams, there are only two solenoids in this unit. One controls the left two burners, one the right two. So if only one burner is out (as in your case and mine), the solenoid should not be the problem. At 14:30 you indicate the inner of the two solenoids controls the front. So, I'm confused. Are there actually 4 solenoids in this unit (two hidden on the right hand side)? Or is there another pair of solenoids that control gas flow to the left pair and right pair separately? Thanks again!
Definitely the 2 solenoids shown are for the left 2 burners. 1 for each of the left burners. To be perfectly honest I am not sure of the controls for the right side burners. Maybe someone else reading or commenting can chime in and help us out?
alwayscan21 Thanks. You were correct. This solenoid did the trick for my malfunctioning front left burner. There are two solenoids (as seen in the video), which control the left burners. These are used for the "X-tra low" feature, which cycles the flame on and off. The right burners don't have this feature, thus no extra solenoids. If you read any comments on parts supply pages which say a single solenoid controls both left burners and so one burner out can't be the solenoid, ignore this incorrect information.
A few tips for others getting into this project: the "Venturi" brass nuts/tubes which secure the burner plate take a 20mm socket. Mine were both rusted fast to the silver jet holders underneath which connect to the end of the gas lines. I managed to break these holders just by applying some muscle (unavoidable), and then used vice grips below as I continued to unscrew to remove the broken bits. In the process I also kinked the gas lines. If I had first unscrewed the gas supply from each I could have saved some time and money on those parts. Also, I was able to lift and replace the top plate without removing the front cover behind the dials.
Thanks again for a great video!
Lifesaver! Thank you
For the people who mention the gas coming on and off constantly while the oven is heating, I (fortunately) bought a warranty for mine that I extend continuously. I get this every so often. The repair guy says it's the "ignition" and it goes out every 4-5 years. I believe it's several hundred dollars to replace.
Great video!
Excellent video, very helpful. Thank you!
at 7:25 you are unplugging these "white plugs" from the square brown electronic boards. this white plug broke, can you please tell me what the name is or where i can find it? thank you so much....
My range has 2 sticky potentiometer valves- They work sometimes. Is there a way to clean/refurbish them rather than $150+ new each one?
Very well done, but a small additional help might be to point to some sources for repair parts.
Nice video. Do you have any footage or instructions on further disassembling to replace the oven insulation? Mice got into our PRG36 and there is a very bad smell... Is it kaput?
Well done video. when i work on gas equipment i turn the gas off and try the valve so any stored gas has an opportunity to be released. just my habit.
Your video inspired me to troubleshoot the same problem on my Thermador Model SGCS365RS Gas Cooktop. My first step was to swap potentiometers between the two XLO simmer burners. Unfortunately, I could never get the plug disconnected from either of the potentiometers. Tried everyway I could think of to get these plugs off. Was able to at least move the potentiometer with the plug attached from the front simmer burner to the rear simmer burner. The problem followed to the rear simmer burner so I'm fairly certain the potentiometer is the problem. Before ordering a replacement could you provide me with some guidance on removing the plug from the potentiometer?
Hello there. I have the exact Thermador range. The back left burner ignites but it makes the rest of the burners click when I turn it on. All other burners work. Also, the front right burner does not reach high. It seems to only get to about Medium???
Very good video. Thanks for sharing
I have the same model. What is the part number and where did you buy it? Thank you for your help.
or for small parts, put them in a little Labelled see-through bag?
I have the same issue the front burner on a Thermador PGR364GL but when you turn the gas on the igniter works and gas comes out what do you think could be the problem? Great video as well
could use masking tape to bind the screws to the disassembled part, say "No 1 part with screws for No. 1" ?
great video, except the venturi tubes were very loose and easy to remove for you, and this is not the case with my stove top. How do I remove them if they are COMPLETELY stuck? thanks!
I am not sure what to say. A wrench of the proper size should loosen up the nuts. Good luck with it and thanks for watching!!
My front venturi tube would not come off, and I was able to do the repair without removing it. All I did was remove that middle piece in the top of the stove, between the two sets of burners (minute 10 in the video). You then remove the two sheetmetal covers from the valves by removing the 4 screws (minute @-@). You do not need to remove the third piece of sheetmetal on the far left side of the stove. Undo the 4 wires and the 4 gas connection nuts (1/2 inch wrench). Directly below the valves are two screws that hold the bracket to the sheetmetal below it. You can see the left side rear screw on @, and the right side front shiny screw on @. You will need a shorty screwdriver to unscrew them. Undo those 2 screws, and the valve units will come out with the sheetmetal cage that surrounds it. Then you can unscrew the valve(s) from the sheetmetal cage, and replace them. Put it back in reverse order.
If the two burner nuts on the right side of the stove are not frozen, then you could remove the right side burners and black tray to give you more room to do the work on the left side. But it is not necessary.
Everything now works perfectly on my stove, and I didn't have to remove the stuck venturi tube.
Very helpful, keep making videos
Necesito de tus servicio para una estufa prácticamente igual es la misma marca solo que más grande y tiene el problema de la válvula como te contacto? O donde tienes taller?
Great video. Now I'm going to tackle mine!
hi thank you for the video it's helpful...but I have a question I have the two left side no gas coming out at all and the igniter does not work two .So do you thing if no gas coming out the igniter should not work? or can I clean those gas valves
Would you be able to give me advice on igniter for the oven, the problem is sometimes comes on sometimes doesn't.
We have a 17 year old Thermador dual fuel downdraft slide-in RDSS30. The left front on/off simmer burner will not work properly. When it comes on, the clock and timer stop functioning and also the oven. I have been told by several appliance people that no parts are available. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks...
Thanks for a great video. Do you know if you can simply swap out the round burners for Thermidor's new Star burners? Thank you.
Not sure about the swap out. Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.
I have the same issue, is this part still available, what is the part number? appreciate any info on part number and where we can get it.
Thank you for the video.. helpful
I have a Thermador PRG366US. I changed the spark module, but when the stove gets hot the ignitors quit working and I can't light additional burners except with an external flame.
I have a Singer 4 burner stove with gas oven like this. It has low flame in all burners in different amounts. I changed the gas regulator fixed to the gas cylinder but it did not make any change. What will be the course for this. Please help me.
thank you. very much appreciated.
thanks man you just taught me how to fix this
Great video, thanks! I wonder if you could do a video on how to read interpret the blinking lights on a malfunctioning thermador oven? Mine currently won't bake, and has no display but the lights blink in a pattern.
A technician once knew the code by watching the lights, but he never explained the trick to me, and Thermador customer service flat-out refuses to tell me, because they want me to hire a "qualified Thermador service technician."
+Jesse Connell Thermador has the very worst customer (actually no) service ever..I would NEVER purchase a product from them again.