you do nice work Sir. nice restoration. wish I could send my pc122 too you as I can't find anybody here in Michigan too work on them anymore. stay safe and enjoy the radio.
saudações brasileiras ao amigo............gostei muito do excelente trabalho de restaração deste philips, temos um igual que gostaria de fazer o mesmo que fez......seria possivel passar o esquema de retirada da Uy41 e resistores e a colocação dos diodas? o meu modelo é bx 209 u .....enfim se puder muitissimo obrigado e tenha certeza que ganhou um seguidor brasileiro................abraços e muito obrigado mais uma vez
I can do that. Question: Do you want the radio to operate on 230V AC or 120V AC? Also, do you live in a 60 Hz country or a 50 Hz country? Portugal? Brazil? Once I have that info I can calculate the capacitor value and draw you up a diagram, no problem. I am gonna need an email address though. Cheers.
I assume that this was a special version to work with British 240V mains voltage, which I think was the standard in the UK back then. I can't think of any other reasons why Philips did a special, because the long wave bands and medium wave bands were (are) identical to the rest of Europe. Cheers.
@@LifeIsTooShortForQRP the G in the philips model no.s means for UK/Great Britain, other countries may also have required 240ish capability, as far as i know X is a 'general purpose' worldwide code, some may have 240 ,some not , there is likely info on the 'net of all the codes they used , sometimes it was inbetween numbers such as B3G81U ,
Did I say it was a car radio? My bad, it is a desk top radio. And only a "death trap" if you don't know what you are doing, it would indeed be better to use an AC isolation transformer in that case. Cheers.
its not a 'death trap' if its used correctly and knobs are present and correct, and you dont do stupid things like poking metal objects into the back holes with set plugged into the mains, philips acdc sets were generally very safe, more so than a lot of others, in this one and many others the knob fixing screws go through the spindle so even if it becomes loose, knobs cannot fall off exposing live spindles
@@andygozzo72 You're right. Philips even put wax in the knob screw holes, so that you could never come in contact with the knob screws (unlikely anyway because they already reside pretty deep in the knobs to begin with). By the way, all European tube TVs of the time also had this transformerless concept, with all tube filaments in series, directly connected to the mains, and single-phase rectification of the mains for the HT voltage. Only difference there is that they used 300mA filament tubes instead of 100mA, a necessity because there were many more tubes than just five like this radio. Those tubes had a "P" nomenclature (like the PY88, PCC84 and the like). Cheers.
@@LifeIsTooShortForQRP yep, pretty much all uk tvs, at least post war were series heater, some using autotransformer though, and/or complex series+parallel heater arrangements(Murphy), plus some radios done that way , and a few odd ac only sets that had transformer just for the heaters, i have a few of those
@@andygozzo72 Interesting! I have never seen tube TVs with a transformer for the filaments. But to be honest, we never saw British TV sets when I grew up, because of the different sound carrier frequency that the UK used (6 MHz UK for 5.5. MHz mainland). And you also had the 405 line format in the UK. So those British sets (Ferguson, Pye, Murphy, etc) were never seen where I lived. The tube TV sets that I have worked with were all Philips, Erres and all the German brands (Grundig, Telefunken, Graetz, Loewe Opta, you name it). They never used transformers. Cheers.
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you do nice work Sir. nice restoration. wish I could send my pc122 too you as I can't find anybody here in Michigan too work on them anymore. stay safe and enjoy the radio.
Robert, you mean the Uniden PC122 CB radio? What is the problem with it?
saudações brasileiras ao amigo............gostei muito do excelente trabalho de restaração deste philips, temos um igual que gostaria de fazer o mesmo que fez......seria possivel passar o esquema de retirada da Uy41 e resistores e a colocação dos diodas? o meu modelo é bx 209 u .....enfim se puder muitissimo obrigado e tenha certeza que ganhou um seguidor brasileiro................abraços e muito obrigado mais uma vez
I can do that. Question: Do you want the radio to operate on 230V AC or 120V AC? Also, do you live in a 60 Hz country or a 50 Hz country? Portugal? Brazil? Once I have that info I can calculate the capacitor value and draw you up a diagram, no problem. I am gonna need an email address though. Cheers.
i have the version intended for the UK, BG200U, it has an extra 245v mains tapping, unfortunately in poor state
I assume that this was a special version to work with British 240V mains voltage, which I think was the standard in the UK back then. I can't think of any other reasons why Philips did a special, because the long wave bands and medium wave bands were (are) identical to the rest of Europe. Cheers.
@@LifeIsTooShortForQRP the G in the philips model no.s means for UK/Great Britain, other countries may also have required 240ish capability, as far as i know X is a 'general purpose' worldwide code, some may have 240 ,some not , there is likely info on the 'net of all the codes they used , sometimes it was inbetween numbers such as B3G81U ,
in some cases the 240v addition was only minimally done , such as in the case of heater voltage/current, resulting in excessive ht on our 240v mains!!
Why did you say it's a car radio? It's a death trap radio.
Did I say it was a car radio? My bad, it is a desk top radio. And only a "death trap" if you don't know what you are doing, it would indeed be better to use an AC isolation transformer in that case. Cheers.
its not a 'death trap' if its used correctly and knobs are present and correct, and you dont do stupid things like poking metal objects into the back holes with set plugged into the mains, philips acdc sets were generally very safe, more so than a lot of others, in this one and many others the knob fixing screws go through the spindle so even if it becomes loose, knobs cannot fall off exposing live spindles
@@andygozzo72 You're right. Philips even put wax in the knob screw holes, so that you could never come in contact with the knob screws (unlikely anyway because they already reside pretty deep in the knobs to begin with).
By the way, all European tube TVs of the time also had this transformerless concept, with all tube filaments in series, directly connected to the mains, and single-phase rectification of the mains for the HT voltage. Only difference there is that they used 300mA filament tubes instead of 100mA, a necessity because there were many more tubes than just five like this radio. Those tubes had a "P" nomenclature (like the PY88, PCC84 and the like). Cheers.
@@LifeIsTooShortForQRP yep, pretty much all uk tvs, at least post war were series heater, some using autotransformer though, and/or complex series+parallel heater arrangements(Murphy), plus some radios done that way , and a few odd ac only sets that had transformer just for the heaters, i have a few of those
@@andygozzo72 Interesting! I have never seen tube TVs with a transformer for the filaments. But to be honest, we never saw British TV sets when I grew up, because of the different sound carrier frequency that the UK used (6 MHz UK for 5.5. MHz mainland). And you also had the 405 line format in the UK. So those British sets (Ferguson, Pye, Murphy, etc) were never seen where I lived. The tube TV sets that I have worked with were all Philips, Erres and all the German brands (Grundig, Telefunken, Graetz, Loewe Opta, you name it). They never used transformers. Cheers.