I hate when you are original and some people criticize and throw theoryes. Some was kindly indeed, but some not. You chopped and split wood after your haft was broken, that's it. Then everything in this life can be improved. I lke the final look of your axe, even I tought in purchasing one of that Fiskars just for the wedge shape and fabricate a handle out of a handle of another tool, club like as yours.
under six I'd say. But yeah I did cringe a bit, specially since fiskars uses a kind of odd steel, you never know maybe lower temps could allready anneal it.
Watched this after the destruction video. I use Fiskars axes and hatchets exclusively, and seeing the abuse the handles can take made me even more confident in them. Inexpensive, reliable, light and they chop very nicely. From old growth hemlock back in Nova Scotia, to frozen spruce at -45 here in the Northwest Territories. I can't fault my Fiskars. I'm confident I could rehaft mine with my Swiss Army knife, using the saw on it, among the other tools. Same for removing what's left of the old handle. Nice job. Take care.
Hey thanks for watching, and the comment! Appreciate it, burning the "schmoo" off the head wasn't the best way to do it by far - but for proof of concept is was quickest! Cheers!
I was surprise by that too. You could possible in-case its chopping part in clay . but I think would have clean it up best as possible and worked around it.
@@lumberjackoutdoors933 Maybe something like this should be carried by Fiskars owners(though broke handles are rare): shkery.en.made-in-china.com/product/aNEQRVXGughA/China-OEM-Hardware-Heavy-Duty-Metal-Bracket-Right-Angle-Brace.html Seems to me, this would have clamped your handle better, along with a couple of screws and nuts.
Great video. I jumped here after seeing the shotgun test and I was impressed by your re-haft. It makes me want the Fiskars full size chopping axe even more. Keep the vids coming, you got a fan in the deep south swamps of Louisiana.
this was awesome. I have a limited budget for my survival/camping/bushcraft gear and I have resisted buying a fiskars hatchet because I didn't think I could rehaft it if the handle broke. buying one now.
Glad to hear it helped, don't listen to the elitist "bushcraft" guys... Fiskars is a GREAT budget backpacking axe, there really isn't much wrong with them for what they cost. What I really learned from this is if you can imagine it, you can probably bushcraft it :D . Creations don't always need to be pretty either, usually it is more important that it works!
+larry whitaker also , you can take metal tube , split one side , and arc weld the axe head in split. Next --- wrap handle with : pubber, leather, textile and have fun. P.S. In most cases --- lifetime warranty. ^___^
Awesome job. When melting the handle off you could bury the axe edge down, with the handle exposed, and build a fire around it. that way the edge would be away from most of the heat. That's from Dave Canterbury's book.
Great job. Like AVE says - You make the mistakes so we don't have to. Other than burning the head, the rest was a bang up job. You are a big boy and you didnt hold back on that maple - that was a great demonstration of what can be achieved. Like you said - if you have to you'll find a way! Nice work.
I had just bought my first axe last month, (Groundwork pro series) am learning more from your channel than any of the others, even Wranglerstar. Thank you, keep it up!
Jesus, what do you do with your silkys?! i have gomboy 240 and im still with factory blade. love the way you did the shaft though. now i know what to do when my x10's handles goes down the drain :D .
Thanks brother! I used my Silkys professionally for about 10 years, the full size saws are great but I have the "pocket" version, too thin and brittle!!
@@ApocGuy if it can't take actual work, it's not a quality tool. My sugoi is a pruning saw, it can do work. Pocket boy saws are just a gimmick, I'll never own another.
@@lumberjackoutdoors933 well sugoi aint folder... i never had problems with gomboy 240 and have one for few years now. but to be truthful, i usually use it for light work and carry proper saw for felling trees above 8 inches....
@@ApocGuy gomboy is a better saw from everything I've seen, thicker blade, much more suited to frequent use and actually accomplishing tasks. I've been wanting one for a while tbh.
That method of hafting an axe head predates the eye-hafted axes. Axes started like that, wedge-shape stone heads fitted onto handles. Who said the Fiskars head could not be re-hafted?
Take a look at the videos where they make cordage out of pop bottles. Bring a small supply into the field and IF you need something to bind a fiskars head to a handle use that. When it's heated up slightly it turns into very strong shrink wrap. AND it's super light and doesn't take up much space in the pack. Awesome video though. My final decision... I'm going to pick up a fiskars axe. Thanks
I’ve thought about how I would replace the handle of a fiskars. The funny thing is the most primitive method is probably the best solution. Like attaching a stone axe to a handle. You proved that it’s works really well. 👍🏼
I'v been using my Gomboy 210 for pruning and some wood work since 2007. The blade isn't perfectly straight any more but is unbroken and still works fine. In fact, fine enough that the replacement blade I bought in 2014 is still in the factory packaging hanging on a nail in my shed. I also have a Big boy 360 and a Genki Temagari 500.
I've been wondering how I'd rehaft a Fiskars head and want to have a go doing one like a stone age or bronze age axe. Your way worked better than I thought it would. Great video, I'm subscribing.
Thanks man! The handle is now cracked, but it's still in one piece believe it or not haha. I even let the guys at work throw it around and beat on it when they ask - it's quite surprising
I had burned it partly off before that, but it wasn't clean. Only used fire because it was fast and easy for the proof of concept. Realistically you would want to chisel/grind/file/chip that handle off the head to maintain temper. Or if you were truly desperate, and needed something harder than wood on a handle - burn it off. Other comments have mentioned putting the edge of the axe as deep as possible in sand and burning the handle off above ground to maintain temper. All theories yet to be tested! Cheers, thanks for the comment!
How would this field repaired axe compare to a field repaired "eyed" axe head ? There appears to be much more wood griping this repair than would be if you trimmed down the wood to fit into the eye of the other type head. Which would be stronger and more useful? How would you remove the broken handle from the eye in a deep bush situation? Just some thoughts. Such a comparison would make a good video. Thanks for the video. You put some original thought and a lot of work into it. 👍
I have been told that some Eastern European axe handles are traditionally made by just using a near sized branch or sapling..so you may have accidentally done it old school
also look at shephards axes etc, they were multipurpose, walking stick, axe, shepherds crook...a branch that you find works great for two out of 3, and pretty grain makes bad walking sticks.. As an aside, bury the axe blade in the dirt under the fire, preferably wet dirt, protects the temper, so the handle is in the fire and the edge is in the mud. (In theory, normal disclaimer about this being an emergency measure etc..)
Try wrapping over a loop of cord with a loophole left out and feed the end of the wrapping cord through the open loop and then pull the tag ends of the loop to pull the wrapping cord end under the wrapping. Nice video and impressive chainsaw skills. Looks like a functional handle.
It is sure better than a stone axe by a country mile. Soon as I seen you had it in the fire, knew that was a problem. As someone else suggested, raw hide and sealing it with some sort of pitch would have been a bang up job.
Ain't that the truth! Yeah I knew the fire would screw with the temper, but was more concerned with getting fitting it than the steel going soft. In truth though, I've done this many times with old beater axe heads - never had one go soft like this, brittle yes, but never seen an edge roll that bad.... Not sure why - Fiskars must use a different method, or very different steel because they do cut quite well with a factory edge!
Although I've already been heavily critiqued for gently grazing the axe head with my $20 folding knife, apparently some people keep their knives razor sharp at all times and never use them. If I whittled the remaining plastic off I'm sure people would lose their shit hahaha. Maybe I should make a troll video!
Agreed, so many people gave me flak for pointing with that knife and making contact with the steel. Crazy theory there though, I sharpened it again! lol. It's been cutting very nicely for me at work, fuel lines and recoil cord - getting a little dull now but that's what whetstones are for! (I also love destruction tests, and it's great to know if you're going to drop $300 on a high end knife - that it is indeed very brittle, and inferior or you're getting good value for the $$ you spend!) Cheers man, thanks for the reasonable comments!!
With how the Fiskars head is designed you may not have had to burn off all of the plastic. It is good to know what's underneath all of it , but could you have hafted the axe head through a shaft with an eye in it so that it gets tighter when you use it? I know it's probably a pain to do with, at worst, just an axehead to use as a wood chisel.
+Bur S I knew it would wreck the temper but just wanted to fit it to the handle as proof of concept. I had burned most of the handle off in my "200 Subscriber" bonus vid hehe. But there was still some residue on there and I wanted it clean for fitting. In hindsight I should have buried the cutting edge and built the fire around it. Probably would have saved the steel. I'm going to see if I can harden it again in a future video. Thanks for the comment - cheers!
Why not use file to shred off the ledges you dont like or want making the back wall and front wall/ledge more abrupt thus making it stronger attachment making it better tool. Maybe an hour of filing and you have it the way you wanted. Thats what I woudl do...
If you have to burn a handle out of/off of an axe head in a pinch situation, the key is to burry the edge of the axe in clay, with just the part you want to burn off exposed. Then build the fire around that. Once the fire burns out, you can dig out the axe head. That will preserve the temper/hardness of the edge.
Thanks for the video. Just a remark on your statement that the silky blades are junk. I drove my car into a wall, now it's broken. this car is junk ! Well, same here with your silky saw, the video in slow motion shows perfectly what you did wrong. If you use it properly you will not brake the blades of your silky. First : it's a pull saw, so no or little pressure when pushuing it back in. You also need to be straight in your groove. Second and most important : DO NOT enter the grrove beyond the tip of the saw when pulling. Straight blades are more difficult to handle vs curved, because the curve one will tend to stop your motion naturally on the pull stroke before the tip enters the groove. So you will brake your blades even more if you use too small of a saw for a too big piece of wood. Put your saw against the section of the wood, the part of the saw that sticks out is the motion range you will have to saw that piece of wood before the tip enters the groove and risking blade snap. In the videao, it is very clear that you pull that saw wayyyy too far out and then jerk it forward while not in line with the groove at 16:21, snap ! Beautiful slow mo footage btw to illustrate what NOT to do with a silky, or any pull saw as a matter of fact. So nothing to do with the blade being junk, it 100% you that messed up here. Again thanks for that beautiful footage. If you have trouble controlling the motion, try a curve blade. Not sure it exists for the pocketboy, but it does for gomboys 210 and up, the blades are interchangeable on the handles. Have fun ! .
Hilarious. Those small silky folders are junk, they are for fine small scale work. Not real work, I have been an arborist for 10 years.. I use a silky Sugoi near daily climbing - so the fact that you think I don't know how a pull saw operates is quite funny, hahaha. I'm just used to tools that can do real work and hold up to it, not those flimsy little pocket boy "toy saws" - JUNK, not rugged enough to be considered survival/bushcraft gear. Unless you go out into the forest to make arts and crafts like a 6 year old hahaha. Thanks for the perfect example of a know-it-all with too much brand loyalty and too little real life experience. I stand by my statement 100%.
Can’t understand why anyone would think a fiskars couldn’t be rehafted. First axes that existed and all axes for thousands of years were hafted this way.
that is what happens when you have a Fiskars Axe in a survival situation ... if you shoot the original handle with a shotgun ... XD ... amazing video you got yourself another sub ... keep it up.
Probably could, given you had the resources... There has to be a way to make it work, I would assume the factory handles are injection molds or something like that.
I am so glad I stoped my self from getting one of the these fiskars first they don't make it very easy to put a handed on even though you did it good job buy the way but for me I like the more traditional axe all the best Dan
From my comfortable coach I may have many tricks in my mind to make it even better but hey in the field you did a great job. More than that, I believe UA-cam needs this video. What you did is a prove of possibility and enables people to do the same or even more in situations. Thank You 🔪✨ Ps Maybe having chainsaw with you triggers your unconscious part of your brain to break silky.
Of course it can be done but it's just harder to do and a lot more work. If this thing ain't right it'll probably come off, while a traditional head may be loose but as long as its good and wedged it should stay put well enough. With a traditional axe or hatchet if it's haft breaks it's not necessarily game over. For a felling or boys axe it could break somewhere down the haft that leaves you with some sort of usable length still on it. Maybe you've just got a shorter axe, maybe you've got just enough that you can efficiently use to carve a new handle. Same goes for a pack sized axe or standard hatchet, you'll probably just be left with a hatchet or something one handed but at least there something on there you can still use. Even if it breaks at the shoulder you still have something there to relatively quickly and easily hang it back on. A Fiskars may not break at the head but if it breaks it is hollow and probably will have cracked pretty bad. Now If I was to carry one of these ( won't touch 'em with a 10ft pole ) I'd keep a roll of 1" gorilla tape crammed in the handle, this would make the whole thing a lot easier. People love these and they do work, but I just won't touch 'em when there's better for the same money or less.
Well I am glad you pointed out this video to me I really dought any one could have done a better job of getting that axe up and running again in that same time period you did great, the only thing that would have made it better would be if you had some wire and vice on your truck . I give you all the credit in the world you earned it take stay safe out there . HAPPY TRAILS
+Mike Boone Thanks! Nothing you can't do without a little creativity, I actually do keep a vice and wire in my truck! Haha, but was tryi g to simulate a backcountry situation. Cheated with the chainsaw to save time, but nothing you couldn't do in the bush with hand tools. Cheers eh!
Me and my 10 months old son enjoyed your video, especially the chainsaw part. You also ensured me in my prejudices against these awful plastic axes ;-) Cheers
I like the way you think but there is a right and wrong way to use fire to remove an axe handle. If your worried about re-hafting I suggest a tomahawk as can make a rough handle instantly just with ground litter or breaking likely branches then use the rough handle to make a better one in under an hour without other tools. Otherwise a Fiskars will last longer than a resupply in any normal or even extraordinary circumstance. There is a reason the old fashioned, old skilled and professional forestry services of Scandinavia use Fiskars. Like Opinel and Mora they do the job, and well, while others pose and posture. ua-cam.com/video/lHR4fXyrbAo/v-deo.html
I wonder if you could remelt the handle and use it. Must be something you can use it for?? Then again I would likely cut of the shattered bit of the original handle and use the original handle (shorter) as the axe handle. Better than stressing, finding, shaping the wrong wood or wood that hasn't been aged properly if unlike a tomahawk you have to cut the wood down allot.
Yes. I know. I've used Silky saws for over a decade professionally. These pocket boys are just shit, anyone that actually knows and uses tools will realize that
Re heat and quench. Improve your method. This axe head attachment would benefit from lateral compression. Difficult problem to solve. Modern designs seem less useful in real world. It's like the old ways are slowly being lost. Into the matrix.
If I ever manage to break mine i'm just buying another until fiskars fulfills the warranty, then I'll have two, and they'll probably survive longer than I will.
@@lumberjackoutdoors933 Glad you took my comment as funny. Seriously, that was a genius quick fix if you were in desperate times. Shame you melted the axe head though. I am new to bushcraft & survival. Just bought a Fiskers (May upgrade very soon).
@@Wayneawebb Of course man haha, thanks! My last couple videos are of making my own hardwood charcoal, currently building a forge. I have plans for that fiskars head still.... ;)
First of all, you destroyed the temper. Second of all, you instantly dulled your knife by scraping the cutting edge on metal hopefully you treat your tools better since you made this video.
"...But you will ruin the temper of the steel..." It's a Fiskars. The steel is a half step above low grade dog food to begin with. I understand not being able to shell out $$$ for a Gransfors Bruk or a Wetterlings, but There are a LOT of better choices for inexpensive axes: Marbles, Collins, Estwing, Cold Steel Trail Boss, Husky, hell, I'd buy a Schrade before I'd buy a Fiskars/Gerber.
Every Fall when the new school year started, we could always tell which teachers were new to Alaska: If they had a Fiskars axe, they were rookie greenhorns. A Fiskars rarely made it through a full Winter in the Alaska villages I lived and taught in, the handles just wouldn't hold up. Now that I'm retired in the Lower 48 I don't have -60 days so I could probably make due with a Fiskars, but since I brought my Gransfors Bruk down with me I'm covered
Buy a fiskars, and buy a new Gransfors - then over strike with each until the head breaks off. Outside of extreme conditions my money is on the Fiskars. So if it's not end of days, and the world is still spinning, Fiskars handle breaks they give you a new axe. Gransfors handle breaks, you buy a new one (or make one, which is no small task if you've ever tried. Or maybe you are one of the few that is exremely proficient at it - and I could understand your distaste for the fiskars axe.) And if it's the end of days, no handles available, no warranty I agree - in the true form of functionality and longevity an axe head with an eye for a wooden handle is better. But realistically what are the chances of that scenario occurring, and if truly desperate what is the difference between one crude handle and another. IMHO other than extremely extraordinary circumstance, there is very little reason for the AVERAGE user to have a negative opinion of Fiskars just because they don't use wooden handles and they mold the handle around the head.
I'm a retired teacher from Alaska, my family comes from Point Hope, AK, the oldest known settlement in North America. I've spent my career teaching in places where Winter temperatures gets to 50 and even 60 below zero. Nobody (except new teachers from the Lower 48) had a plastic handled axe there because they didn't last. In addition, the steel is crap compared to my GB Scandinavian, it's not even as good as my Cold Steel Trail Boss. Nothing wrong with cheap, if you know you're not going to NEED to rely on your equipment for your life, but I cringe when I hear people tout Gerber/Fiskars axes as high quality. Decent? Yes, as long as it's not extreme weather. Great? No.
That's probably true, but the majority of North America doesn't live in that extreme climate. And for the majority - the Fiskars Axe is very, very good value. The circumstances where you absolutely need to have a hardwood handle, high carbon steel head and complete reliance on an axe are so minute it's hardly worth arguing about. But in that case, yes a high quality head with and eye wins. Otherwise, if you are an entry level woodsman/camper/hiker/prepper whatever - nothing wrong with starting your kit out with a Fiskars. You don't need to have a GB or Wetterlings etc.... for your first 5 day back country trip. lol
I hate when you are original and some people criticize and throw theoryes. Some was kindly indeed, but some not. You chopped and split wood after your haft was broken, that's it. Then everything in this life can be improved. I lke the final look of your axe, even I tought in purchasing one of that Fiskars just for the wedge shape and fabricate a handle out of a handle of another tool, club like as yours.
any steel will lose its temper if it gets that hot no matter the quality
Keep it under 7 hundred degrees, you should be ok.
under six I'd say.
But yeah I did cringe a bit, specially since fiskars uses a kind of odd steel, you never know maybe lower temps could allready anneal it.
Depends on how hot. I wouldn't dare depend on a Fiskers design period.
Finally someone actually went through the process of re hafting a fiskers..
Watched this after the destruction video. I use Fiskars axes and hatchets exclusively, and seeing the abuse the handles can take made me even more confident in them. Inexpensive, reliable, light and they chop very nicely. From old growth hemlock back in Nova Scotia, to frozen spruce at -45 here in the Northwest Territories. I can't fault my Fiskars. I'm confident I could rehaft mine with my Swiss Army knife, using the saw on it, among the other tools. Same for removing what's left of the old handle. Nice job. Take care.
Hey thanks for watching, and the comment! Appreciate it, burning the "schmoo" off the head wasn't the best way to do it by far - but for proof of concept is was quickest! Cheers!
Wet raw hide wrap, then sealed with pine or birch tar and that head wont move.
Ever.
TurtleWolf Pack be careful when saying things like never, because God takes that as a challenge and he is better engineer than all of us
@@sushipaolo I don't use that word, because you are correct. In my post it isn't present.
@@turtlewolfpack6061 won't ever ~ never
Noooo, don't put it in the fire! And there goes the temper... (next video) re-heattreating and tempering a fiskars axe head.
+K Grimm Haha, I knew it would likely ruin it. But I've never had one go as soft as this! And yup, probaly will try to temper the head haha.
I was surprise by that too. You could possible in-case its chopping part in clay . but I think would have clean it up best as possible and worked around it.
@@lumberjackoutdoors933 Maybe something like this should be carried by Fiskars owners(though broke handles are rare): shkery.en.made-in-china.com/product/aNEQRVXGughA/China-OEM-Hardware-Heavy-Duty-Metal-Bracket-Right-Angle-Brace.html
Seems to me, this would have clamped your handle better, along with a couple of screws and nuts.
Great video. I jumped here after seeing the shotgun test and I was impressed by your re-haft. It makes me want the Fiskars full size chopping axe even more. Keep the vids coming, you got a fan in the deep south swamps of Louisiana.
this was awesome. I have a limited budget for my survival/camping/bushcraft gear and I have resisted buying a fiskars hatchet because I didn't think I could rehaft it if the handle broke. buying one now.
Glad to hear it helped, don't listen to the elitist "bushcraft" guys... Fiskars is a GREAT budget backpacking axe, there really isn't much wrong with them for what they cost. What I really learned from this is if you can imagine it, you can probably bushcraft it :D . Creations don't always need to be pretty either, usually it is more important that it works!
+larry whitaker
also , you can take metal tube , split one side , and arc weld the axe head in split.
Next --- wrap handle with : pubber, leather, textile and have fun.
P.S. In most cases --- lifetime warranty. ^___^
Awesome job. When melting the handle off you could bury the axe edge down, with the handle exposed, and build a fire around it. that way the edge would be away from most of the heat. That's from Dave Canterbury's book.
In many survival or bushcraft books they mention exaxtly that. Great tip. Glad to see someone else reads bushcraft books besides me.
Great job. Like AVE says - You make the mistakes so we don't have to. Other than burning the head, the rest was a bang up job. You are a big boy and you didnt hold back on that maple - that was a great demonstration of what can be achieved. Like you said - if you have to you'll find a way! Nice work.
I had just bought my first axe last month, (Groundwork pro series) am learning more from your channel than any of the others, even Wranglerstar. Thank you, keep it up!
Thanks so much!!
Jesus, what do you do with your silkys?! i have gomboy 240 and im still with factory blade. love the way you did the shaft though. now i know what to do when my x10's handles goes down the drain :D .
Thanks brother! I used my Silkys professionally for about 10 years, the full size saws are great but I have the "pocket" version, too thin and brittle!!
@@lumberjackoutdoors933 yeah, they were never meant to be used (abused) that way. after all, those are pruning saws ;) .
@@ApocGuy if it can't take actual work, it's not a quality tool. My sugoi is a pruning saw, it can do work. Pocket boy saws are just a gimmick, I'll never own another.
@@lumberjackoutdoors933 well sugoi aint folder... i never had problems with gomboy 240 and have one for few years now. but to be truthful, i usually use it for light work and carry proper saw for felling trees above 8 inches....
@@ApocGuy gomboy is a better saw from everything I've seen, thicker blade, much more suited to frequent use and actually accomplishing tasks. I've been wanting one for a while tbh.
That method of hafting an axe head predates the eye-hafted axes. Axes started like that, wedge-shape stone heads fitted onto handles. Who said the Fiskars head could not be re-hafted?
I was snuggling with my X7 as I watched this.
Since you lost the temper, just drill holes and bolt on a handle!
Great job wanted to know if this could be done and u did it !!!! Thanks
Take a look at the videos where they make cordage out of pop bottles. Bring a small supply into the field and IF you need something to bind a fiskars head to a handle use that. When it's heated up slightly it turns into very strong shrink wrap. AND it's super light and doesn't take up much space in the pack. Awesome video though. My final decision... I'm going to pick up a fiskars axe. Thanks
I’ve thought about how I would replace the handle of a fiskars. The funny thing is the most primitive method is probably the best solution. Like attaching a stone axe to a handle. You proved that it’s works really well. 👍🏼
I'v been using my Gomboy 210 for pruning and some wood work since 2007. The blade isn't perfectly straight any more but is unbroken and still works fine. In fact, fine enough that the replacement blade I bought in 2014 is still in the factory packaging hanging on a nail in my shed. I also have a Big boy 360 and a Genki Temagari 500.
Never occurred to me to do that. Always hated the fiber handle. I like what you did here. Thank you for sharing this.
Hey thanks a lot!
Hi, I am happy you made this video, I always wondered what the head under the plastic looked like, Thanks again.
Based on the handle break from last video, I wonder if you could kept the broken piece on the head, and attached a handle to that more efficiently.
i think the plastic bottle cord ideal would be great for this project.just wrap and melt
You are basically making an ancient stone axe, using a modern steel head in place of the rock. If it worked 10k years ago, it will work now.
I've been wondering how I'd rehaft a Fiskars head and want to have a go doing one like a stone age or bronze age axe. Your way worked better than I thought it would. Great video, I'm subscribing.
Thanks man! The handle is now cracked, but it's still in one piece believe it or not haha. I even let the guys at work throw it around and beat on it when they ask - it's quite surprising
I think you can heat up the edge again and quench it in oil/water to restore the edge hardness.
Nice video. But how did you get the rest of the fiber handle material away from the head before you put it on the fire?
I had burned it partly off before that, but it wasn't clean. Only used fire because it was fast and easy for the proof of concept. Realistically you would want to chisel/grind/file/chip that handle off the head to maintain temper. Or if you were truly desperate, and needed something harder than wood on a handle - burn it off. Other comments have mentioned putting the edge of the axe as deep as possible in sand and burning the handle off above ground to maintain temper. All theories yet to be tested! Cheers, thanks for the comment!
So you took it from looking like a modern axe, to looking like an Apache scalping hawk.
How would this field repaired axe compare to a field repaired "eyed" axe head ?
There appears to be much more wood griping this repair than would be if you trimmed down the wood to fit into the eye of the other type head. Which would be stronger and more useful? How would you remove the broken handle from the eye in a deep bush situation?
Just some thoughts. Such a comparison would make a good video.
Thanks for the video. You put some original thought and a lot of work into it. 👍
This is exactly the idea I had. Its very similar to how primitive stone axe heads were fashioned.
I have been told that some Eastern European axe handles are traditionally made by just using a near sized branch or sapling..so you may have accidentally done it old school
+justicar5 it really makes sense, people wouldn't have spent time making "pretty" looking handles when they were actually trying to work and survive!
also look at shephards axes etc, they were multipurpose, walking stick, axe, shepherds crook...a branch that you find works great for two out of 3, and pretty grain makes bad walking sticks.. As an aside, bury the axe blade in the dirt under the fire, preferably wet dirt, protects the temper, so the handle is in the fire and the edge is in the mud. (In theory, normal disclaimer about this being an emergency measure etc..)
Try wrapping over a loop of cord with a loophole left out and feed the end of the wrapping cord through the open loop and then pull the tag ends of the loop to pull the wrapping cord end under the wrapping. Nice video and impressive chainsaw skills. Looks like a functional handle.
Wow works great!
It is sure better than a stone axe by a country mile. Soon as I seen you had it in the fire, knew that was a problem. As someone else suggested, raw hide and sealing it with some sort of pitch would have been a bang up job.
Ain't that the truth! Yeah I knew the fire would screw with the temper, but was more concerned with getting fitting it than the steel going soft. In truth though, I've done this many times with old beater axe heads - never had one go soft like this, brittle yes, but never seen an edge roll that bad.... Not sure why - Fiskars must use a different method, or very different steel because they do cut quite well with a factory edge!
The only limitation is your own creativity and patience. If there is a will, there is a way!
Although I've already been heavily critiqued for gently grazing the axe head with my $20 folding knife, apparently some people keep their knives razor sharp at all times and never use them. If I whittled the remaining plastic off I'm sure people would lose their shit hahaha. Maybe I should make a troll video!
Agreed, so many people gave me flak for pointing with that knife and making contact with the steel. Crazy theory there though, I sharpened it again! lol. It's been cutting very nicely for me at work, fuel lines and recoil cord - getting a little dull now but that's what whetstones are for! (I also love destruction tests, and it's great to know if you're going to drop $300 on a high end knife - that it is indeed very brittle, and inferior or you're getting good value for the $$ you spend!) Cheers man, thanks for the reasonable comments!!
Haha! Thats awesome to hear! Thanks!
With how the Fiskars head is designed you may not have had to burn off all of the plastic. It is good to know what's underneath all of it , but could you have hafted the axe head through a shaft with an eye in it so that it gets tighter when you use it? I know it's probably a pain to do with, at worst, just an axehead to use as a wood chisel.
This is probably the best suggestion I've had yet! Great idea!
Great job!! Why did you burn the head at the start?
+Bur S I knew it would wreck the temper but just wanted to fit it to the handle as proof of concept. I had burned most of the handle off in my "200 Subscriber" bonus vid hehe. But there was still some residue on there and I wanted it clean for fitting. In hindsight I should have buried the cutting edge and built the fire around it. Probably would have saved the steel. I'm going to see if I can harden it again in a future video. Thanks for the comment - cheers!
You can probably use rawhide, soaked in water and when dry will shrink and be super tight.
Nice work man!👍
Should have quenched it in water out of fire. Wouldn't that have re-tempered it?
Try the corona folding saw, they are amazing for the price..
Why not use file to shred off the ledges you dont like or want making the back wall and front wall/ledge more abrupt thus making it stronger attachment making it better tool. Maybe an hour of filing and you have it the way you wanted. Thats what I woudl do...
Do you normally pack a bastard file when you camp in the backcountry?
If you have to burn a handle out of/off of an axe head in a pinch situation, the key is to burry the edge of the axe in clay, with just the part you want to burn off exposed. Then build the fire around that.
Once the fire burns out, you can dig out the axe head.
That will preserve the temper/hardness of the edge.
Cool Video 👍
Thank U for the Info and the Links 👍
U got a new subscriber...
Greetings from Vienna ✌️
Thanks man, Cheers from Canada!!!
Thanks for the video.
Just a remark on your statement that the silky blades are junk.
I drove my car into a wall, now it's broken. this car is junk !
Well, same here with your silky saw, the video in slow motion shows perfectly what you did wrong.
If you use it properly you will not brake the blades of your silky.
First : it's a pull saw, so no or little pressure when pushuing it back in. You also need to be straight in your groove.
Second and most important : DO NOT enter the grrove beyond the tip of the saw when pulling.
Straight blades are more difficult to handle vs curved, because the curve one will tend to stop your motion naturally on the pull stroke before the tip enters the groove.
So you will brake your blades even more if you use too small of a saw for a too big piece of wood. Put your saw against the section of the wood, the part of the saw that sticks out is the motion range you will have to saw that piece of wood before the tip enters the groove and risking blade snap.
In the videao, it is very clear that you pull that saw wayyyy too far out and then jerk it forward while not in line with the groove at 16:21, snap ! Beautiful slow mo footage btw to illustrate what NOT to do with a silky, or any pull saw as a matter of fact.
So nothing to do with the blade being junk, it 100% you that messed up here. Again thanks for that beautiful footage.
If you have trouble controlling the motion, try a curve blade. Not sure it exists for the pocketboy, but it does for gomboys 210 and up, the blades are interchangeable on the handles.
Have fun !
.
Hilarious. Those small silky folders are junk, they are for fine small scale work. Not real work, I have been an arborist for 10 years.. I use a silky Sugoi near daily climbing - so the fact that you think I don't know how a pull saw operates is quite funny, hahaha. I'm just used to tools that can do real work and hold up to it, not those flimsy little pocket boy "toy saws" - JUNK, not rugged enough to be considered survival/bushcraft gear. Unless you go out into the forest to make arts and crafts like a 6 year old hahaha. Thanks for the perfect example of a know-it-all with too much brand loyalty and too little real life experience. I stand by my statement 100%.
was that safe chainsawmanship?
of course!
Can’t understand why anyone would think a fiskars couldn’t be rehafted. First axes that existed and all axes for thousands of years were hafted this way.
Bury the edge to keep it from losing temper and use heat to get rid of the plastic.
Interesting stuff bro. Way to put yourself out there.
bury the bit into the dirt and shovel hot coals around the "eye" area to avoid ruining the temper on the bit.
Cool! I've beat my X7 around for ten years. It now lives in the trunk with an "edge protection" of a strip of duct tape :D Great tools.
that is what happens when you have a Fiskars Axe in a survival situation ... if you shoot the original handle with a shotgun ... XD ... amazing video you got yourself another sub ... keep it up.
Thanks Sandra!!
Really neat video. Love the design. Well done! Subscribed 👍
you can make a mold and pour some kind of glue that works for u as a handle
Probably could, given you had the resources... There has to be a way to make it work, I would assume the factory handles are injection molds or something like that.
they are made from thicc pvc pipes
melted milk jugs are strong
I am so glad I stoped my self from getting one of the these fiskars first they don't make it very easy to put a handed on even though you did it good job buy the way but for me I like the more traditional axe all the best Dan
From my comfortable coach I may have many tricks in my mind to make it even better but hey in the field you did a great job. More than that, I believe UA-cam needs this video. What you did is a prove of possibility and enables people to do the same or even more in situations. Thank You 🔪✨
Ps Maybe having chainsaw with you triggers your unconscious part of your brain to break silky.
Of course it can be done but it's just harder to do and a lot more work.
If this thing ain't right it'll probably come off, while a traditional head may be loose but as long as its good and wedged it should stay put well enough.
With a traditional axe or hatchet if it's haft breaks it's not necessarily game over.
For a felling or boys axe it could break somewhere down the haft that leaves you with some sort of usable length still on it.
Maybe you've just got a shorter axe, maybe you've got just enough that you can efficiently use to carve a new handle.
Same goes for a pack sized axe or standard hatchet, you'll probably just be left with a hatchet or something one handed but at least there something on there you can still use.
Even if it breaks at the shoulder you still have something there to relatively quickly and easily hang it back on.
A Fiskars may not break at the head but if it breaks it is hollow and probably will have cracked pretty bad.
Now If I was to carry one of these ( won't touch 'em with a 10ft pole )
I'd keep a roll of 1" gorilla tape crammed in the handle, this would make the whole thing a lot easier.
People love these and they do work, but I just won't touch 'em when there's better for the same money or less.
Well I am glad you pointed out this video to me I really dought any one could have done a better job of getting that axe up and running again in that same time period you did great, the only thing that would have made it better would be if you had some wire and vice on your truck . I give you all the credit in the world you earned it take stay safe out there . HAPPY TRAILS
+Mike Boone Thanks! Nothing you can't do without a little creativity, I actually do keep a vice and wire in my truck! Haha, but was tryi g to simulate a backcountry situation. Cheated with the chainsaw to save time, but nothing you couldn't do in the bush with hand tools. Cheers eh!
Me and my 10 months old son enjoyed your video, especially the chainsaw part.
You also ensured me in my prejudices against these awful plastic axes ;-)
Cheers
These plastic axes will outlast any wooden axe.
Awful plastic.... You mean the one he shot with a shotgun to get it to break? Then melted on a fire?
I like the way you think but there is a right and wrong way to use fire to remove an axe handle. If your worried about re-hafting I suggest a tomahawk as can make a rough handle instantly just with ground litter or breaking likely branches then use the rough handle to make a better one in under an hour without other tools.
Otherwise a Fiskars will last longer than a resupply in any normal or even extraordinary circumstance. There is a reason the old fashioned, old skilled and professional forestry services of Scandinavia use Fiskars. Like Opinel and Mora they do the job, and well, while others pose and posture. ua-cam.com/video/lHR4fXyrbAo/v-deo.html
I wonder if you could remelt the handle and use it. Must be something you can use it for?? Then again I would likely cut of the shattered bit of the original handle and use the original handle (shorter) as the axe handle. Better than stressing, finding, shaping the wrong wood or wood that hasn't been aged properly if unlike a tomahawk you have to cut the wood down allot.
Awesome. Now I know what to do if I'm stranded in the wilderness and accidentally shoot my Fiskers ax handle with a shotgun...twice:)
silky's cut when pulling back you shouldn't put so much energy when you push you're just lining up for the next cut stroke
Yes. I know. I've used Silky saws for over a decade professionally. These pocket boys are just shit, anyone that actually knows and uses tools will realize that
Sure the burning of the head was questionable but overall, great, great video!!!! Thanks for going through work to make this video.
'Little Silky blades are junk' LOL! From a guy that throws an axe head on to a fire.
Yes I knew it would ruin the temper. Yes, small silky blades are shit.
@@lumberjackoutdoors933 Anything is shit if you don't know how to use it.
Sin importar la calidad del acero, si lo pones en el fuego pierde el temple.
Well shit.. After all the fails I saw, the project turned out pretty successful lol right on. Cool axe
Who takes a Fiskars for survival, take a Husqi never fails with solid back and bottom support
Re heat and quench. Improve your method. This axe head attachment would benefit from lateral compression. Difficult problem to solve. Modern designs seem less useful in real world. It's like the old ways are slowly being lost. Into the matrix.
Just thank god I’m living in 2018 where I could buy one for 30 bucks with lifetime warranty
How's that working out for you now that everything is closed?
26:10 it's "bush art"
I learned a few more reasons why this Fxrs axe is crap. I feel like we're living in the Truman Show.
A tube of Bondo, bisonite , Acraglass or some WEST system G flex would take up very little room, weigh next to nothing, and have a million uses....
If I ever manage to break mine i'm just buying another until fiskars fulfills the warranty, then I'll have two, and they'll probably survive longer than I will.
Epoxy would be great for a permenent solution!
This is great subbed!
Thanks man!!!
Wow, I wouldn't have heated that up. Sub btw.
Moral of this story..... Don't be so freakin tight & buy a new axe.
rofl
@@lumberjackoutdoors933 Glad you took my comment as funny. Seriously, that was a genius quick fix if you were in desperate times.
Shame you melted the axe head though. I am new to bushcraft & survival. Just bought a Fiskers (May upgrade very soon).
@@Wayneawebb Of course man haha, thanks! My last couple videos are of making my own hardwood charcoal, currently building a forge. I have plans for that fiskars head still.... ;)
You need to learn how to tie a clove hitch.
rofl. dude, I know how to tie a clove hitch. How do you think that would have benefit this situation?
Aaand you screwed the heat treat in the first 10 seconds of the video
First of all, you destroyed the temper. Second of all, you instantly dulled your knife by scraping the cutting edge on metal hopefully you treat your tools better since you made this video.
Wrench for a hammer.
uh.....never mind thanks for the vid
"...But you will ruin the temper of the steel..." It's a Fiskars. The steel is a half step above low grade dog food to begin with. I understand not being able to shell out $$$ for a Gransfors Bruk or a Wetterlings, but There are a LOT of better choices for inexpensive axes: Marbles, Collins, Estwing, Cold Steel Trail Boss, Husky, hell, I'd buy a Schrade before I'd buy a Fiskars/Gerber.
Go buy a fiskars axe, and try to intentionally break the handle. Then tell me they're shit. Bang for buck, average user - they are a big win.
Every Fall when the new school year started, we could always tell which teachers were new to Alaska: If they had a Fiskars axe, they were rookie greenhorns. A Fiskars rarely made it through a full Winter in the Alaska villages I lived and taught in, the handles just wouldn't hold up. Now that I'm retired in the Lower 48 I don't have -60 days so I could probably make due with a Fiskars, but since I brought my Gransfors Bruk down with me I'm covered
Buy a fiskars, and buy a new Gransfors - then over strike with each until the head breaks off. Outside of extreme conditions my money is on the Fiskars. So if it's not end of days, and the world is still spinning, Fiskars handle breaks they give you a new axe. Gransfors handle breaks, you buy a new one (or make one, which is no small task if you've ever tried. Or maybe you are one of the few that is exremely proficient at it - and I could understand your distaste for the fiskars axe.) And if it's the end of days, no handles available, no warranty I agree - in the true form of functionality and longevity an axe head with an eye for a wooden handle is better. But realistically what are the chances of that scenario occurring, and if truly desperate what is the difference between one crude handle and another.
IMHO other than extremely extraordinary circumstance, there is very little reason for the AVERAGE user to have a negative opinion of Fiskars just because they don't use wooden handles and they mold the handle around the head.
I'm a retired teacher from Alaska, my family comes from Point Hope, AK, the oldest known settlement in North America. I've spent my career teaching in places where Winter temperatures gets to 50 and even 60 below zero. Nobody (except new teachers from the Lower 48) had a plastic handled axe there because they didn't last. In addition, the steel is crap compared to my GB Scandinavian, it's not even as good as my Cold Steel Trail Boss. Nothing wrong with cheap, if you know you're not going to NEED to rely on your equipment for your life, but I cringe when I hear people tout Gerber/Fiskars axes as high quality. Decent? Yes, as long as it's not extreme weather. Great? No.
That's probably true, but the majority of North America doesn't live in that extreme climate. And for the majority - the Fiskars Axe is very, very good value. The circumstances where you absolutely need to have a hardwood handle, high carbon steel head and complete reliance on an axe are so minute it's hardly worth arguing about. But in that case, yes a high quality head with and eye wins. Otherwise, if you are an entry level woodsman/camper/hiker/prepper whatever - nothing wrong with starting your kit out with a Fiskars. You don't need to have a GB or Wetterlings etc.... for your first 5 day back country trip. lol
Stop messing up that tree ffs
You mean the DEAD TREE? Fuck off 🖕 🤣
dont make the buck knife dool
Easy answer, tomahawk
Always been a fan of the concept!
Duct tape it!
+Brian McWhorter Brilliant! Lol
juse DUCTTAPE
😂 Fiskars tupit
This guy is full of it ppl” I doubt a granfors will do that” .is it idiot proof ? Any heat treatments will be ruined by heating It lol this guy
Less chit chat please...... 😁