I can't believe I've owned my TS for a couple years and have never known what the 90° and 45° adjustment holes were! Thanks a ton. I have been wondering how to set positive stops like this.
After much research it seems that your blade adjustment instructions are incorrect. You can find proper instructions with photos online for the older 36-725 saw. The two hex screws you want to adjust are under the dust shroud on the motor side of the blade assembly. All of your other instructions seem spot on. Thanks for the video.
Setting up my first new saw (Delta 36-725T2). I was ready to start pulling my hair out while trying to figure out how to adjust the fence parallel to the miter slot. From the Delta instructions no details to locate the set screws. Black hardware on black metal makes finding things a little more difficult for 70 year-old eyes. Looked at several videos and no details on that alignment. Boom! Here you are showing me exactly what I needed to do. Easy peasy. Thank you. I owe you a subscription!
Yo Cuz just wanted to say I subscribed to you a couple months ago and your videos are remarkable ! The knowledge that you share is so appreciated ! I have had the same saw about 6 months and the same planer as well! Love your videos. Keep up the good work my Man!
Perfect information shared in a simple concise manner! Exactly what I was looking for. BTW, I guess I'm about half as lazy as you, I've only ignored checking my adjustments for about 1 1/2 years. :-) New sub to your channel, I'll be back to check out your other videos after I get my saw adjustments done... now that I know how to do 'em. Thanks again!
Money isn't an issue, but it also isn't no issue. I like woodworking and get to make fun gifts for people who I care about so I really like these videos. Please keep them coming! I have an old Craftsman that worked for me until it didn't. I don't want to break the bank with a new Sawstop and this one seems to hit the sweet spot. I appreciate the videos you post.
With the blade angle stops, I like to have it adjusted so I have a bit more than what is needed. So instead of 45, I set it at say, 46. Then instead of 90, I move it to just PAST perfect ninety, so it's maybe one degree to the right. Then I use the scale to get close and use a speed square for my angle (bevel gauge for between 90 and 45). I was taught to never believe the scales, and check every time.
Thinks for the great videos on 36-725T2. Just bought and assembled (assembled twice to get it right). I want to upgrade the blade for cleaner cut and less noise during cut but I'm puzzled by the kerf and blade body thickness requirements (page 28 of owners manual). Delta states the blade kerf must be 2.6mm (0.102") thick or greater and the blade body no thicker than 1.8mm (0.073"). I can't find such a blade. I was wondering what blade you are using. Was considering the Diablo D1050X but kerf is too narrow. Any help / guidance would be appreciated. Thank you. Updated after some research 8-23-23. Boy, did I step into a complicated topic. Appears there is some flexibility with kerf thickness but width of blade body/plate should not exceed width of riving knife. UA-cam post by Stubby Nubbs re riving knife thickness was helpful. Summary: I'm going to try the Diablo D1050X since the blade thickness is less than riving knife thickness.
The eight bolts underneath that hold the assembly to the steel top I adjusted and I’m unable to get it to actually adjust. Would you say that it’s a warranty and I need to take it back?
Liked your video and for keeping it straight on point. You commented that you were sending back the Rigid... Any particular reason why - or maybe just because of the rust? I'm really needing a new saw (mine is 23yrs old - work out!). I wanted to get a DeWalt 36-725 but I guess there are some bad issues with the capacitors that they're using on them, I've been looking at going with the Rigid saw for a Delta. Can you give me your personal views on the rigid versus Delta in performance and handling when cutting material... mainly wood. Would really appreciate your feedback. Thanks for another awesome video!
Hello Bill! So the Ridgid R4520 I did a couple videos on was returned because of a machining error to the cast iron table. That saw as best I can tell is discontinued. Your other 2 options are the Delta 36-725T2 and Ridgid R4560 which are exactly the same. I have read about motor issues but haven’t experienced any of that for myself. My Delta has been perfect since new. Here’s the link for my overview of the Delta. Comment back if you have anymore questions. Thanks for watching!! ua-cam.com/video/zIKFGcwaJ6s/v-deo.html
Thanks for the follow up! Looks like I'm caught in the short hairs... If I want a new saw, I have to go big or stay home! No one has (in stock) the Delta contractor saws... 5000 series is all that's in stock! Unless you of someone... Have ready been searching for the past two weeks! Really appreciate your thoughts. Bring almost 70 and would really like to retire and get back into woodworking 👍👊
As long as you are using the saw for general building projects, the ruler will suffice for squaring the blade. I would suggest using a tri square referenced against the miter slot. You can use the same process demonstrated, but if there is a discrepancy, the fixed measurement of the tri square will make it more visible. The small discrepancies in blade alignment will make themselves very apparent when cutting miters or bevels. The mismatch of adjoining parts can lead to a great deal of frustration during a build. Just my opinion/experience with blade alignment and detailed builds.
I have this same Saw and I find that the black portion portion of the throat plate sits below the flush part of the blue plate.... Is there any adjustment for that?
If understand correctly, the throat plate dips below the table surface at the rear of the plate? Mine does too and it’s because the plate splits at the back and isn’t supported on one side. Check out my Delta review vid and skip to 02:45. The mdf inserts are made by Callista woodworks and bought on Etsy. Hope this helps. There’s no adjustment on the plate itself If that’s what you meant. ua-cam.com/video/zIKFGcwaJ6s/v-deo.html
Thanks for this. I am considering this saw and I was concerned about blade parallelism. I've owned two different contractor saws and, frankly, adjusting the trunion to align the blade is an exercise in frustration. Having said that, I'm not sure I like the fact that it's not user adjustable (although I suppose it actually is, just even more of a pain). My last saw was a Grizzly cabinet saw that was just too big and heavy to move cross-country, so I sold it (a move I really regret!). Adjusting parallelism on a cabinet saw is a breeze as it's all done while standing up. Cabinet saw have gotten crazy expensive which is why I'm considering this Delta.
The gauge is referenced off the table being set to 0 degrees then when it gets turned and put onto the blade it still is referencing the 0 degrees on the table to where it is now setting on the siide of the blade.
Don’t know how easy it would be to install a different motor but mine has been perfect for a few years of hard use now. No weird noises or hiccups at all. Thanks for watching!
Such a good video, thank you so much - i learned about 10 important things about my saw in 10 minutes - one of the most valuable videos i have ever watched well shot camera wise and well explained
Hi, remember the guy who kept asking about table saws from North America to be used on 220v/50Hz? Just wanna say thanks for all the responses. Unfortunately I was unable to take advantage of the free shipping deal from Canada, because of compatibility issues with power. I finally got this from the UK. ua-cam.com/video/y_E6FVtgjKs/v-deo.html. Set me back about 2000 USD to purchase and ship to Nigeria. It's a lot of money, but it will ba all worth it in the end. I appreciate your videos as a newbie venturing into woodwork. Please, keep them coming.
Hello again Ajizentu! I’m glad to hear you got it figured out! I’m glad you like the channel! We’ve got a lot of cool stuff to check out this year already. Should be a good time! Thanks again for watching!
I know you’ve probably heard this for ages, but you sound , and look, like Ray Romano. 😂 I really enjoy your “to the point” and excellent videos. Keep up the good work amigo! 👍🏼
FENCE & REAR RAIL QUESTION (and others thoughts/ experiences): Does the fence “need” the ‘rear’ “rail clip” that hooks over the real rail? Have you tried it without (but still keep the white plastic pad in place)? Being the fromt clamp of the fence is pretty damn good. POINT to my question is, 1) easy removal of fence without sliding off/or up/over 2) I’d prefer not to have a rear rail so it’s flush with my outfeed table. I’d make my own wings that are supported so further no need for the rear rail.
I haven’t tried removing that clip but I’m sure it would be fine if you did. The rear rail is just a piece of angle iron and that white plastic pad rides on it. I think you’ll need to keep the rail. I suppose it would be possible to remove the rail and design the outfeed table to act as a rear rail but it would be slightly lower than the table surface. Hope this helps good luck!
It’s true the display I saw before buying mine looked like it was outside in the rain for a couple years. I’ve had no trouble with mine 4 years later. My garage is only heated when I’m out there and it gets humid here in Chicago but no trouble with rust yet. A thin coat of oil would be good enough I’m sure. I have set a cold beer on there a few times and had to sand off a rust ring a couple days later but maybe your smarter than I am! Thanks for watching!
I check one out at Lowes the other day. The blade was out of parrallel in the store. If you can't adjust this, then I would say it is a no go. Maybe swap out the flat head screws on the trunions for slightly longer cap head and thick hardened washers an open the hoes in the trunion to allow adjustment?
That’s crazy! Mines still dead nuts after years. I went to Lowe’s to look at the floor model before I bought mine. Literally every part of the demo was broken and the top looked like it was out in the rain for months. I bought It just based on the size/weight and price. Definitely could be a factory defect but those floor models take quite a beating. Thanks for the comment!
Do you know if there are anyone on Etsy that's reputable that makes aftermarket extension wings for this saw? Currently I have the $350 skil job site my first saw, also the 10 in dewalt that I've been using the past 4 years or so. I want a saw with a bigger table, I've been holding out for a cabinet saw just don't want to spend the coin, I think this is my best choice. I would like some quality aftermarket extension wings though. Also I've been watching you for quite a while, love your in-depth reviews, a lot of channels constantly apologize for the length of their videos. lol Don't ever do that, you put a lot of thought and information into every minute it's highly appreciated
Not sure about Etsy Adam but Ive been planning to buy the Sawstop 27 inch deep cast iron wings for years. Last I looked they were about $300 a pair but would need to be drilled to fit. Thanks for saying that about the vid length. I was worried at first 25-30 min was pushing my luck. I try hard to keep the editing tight and not waste anyones time with padding and fluff. The red Skil table saw with the first long one and its over 200k views, put my mind at ease a little. As far as a stud finder I agree they all seem to be crap. Maybe soon Ill do some research and pick a few up to test. Thanks for watching!
Hi just got a look at your guide on the Delta saw. Had questions if you can give some fed of thoughts. Just picked up a Kobalt jobsite. Still in box is The Delta Woth it , including the Issues.
Yes! Even with the issues the big saws are worth it if you have the space to spare. Check out the DeWALT vid I just dropped! There is a little bit of contractor vs jobsite towards the end. Thanks for watching!! The Saw Designed For Everybody? | DeWALT DWE7491RS | Review and All Adjustments ua-cam.com/video/IR4DiumC1no/v-deo.html
I have dealt with three of the issues you covered since getting mine as a return at Lowe’s and as thinking it was a piece of junk…after watching this video and making adjustments, I can say I could not have been more wrong…love the saw! Thanks so much!
I have been looking to upgrade my table saw from my very old Ryobi to a “good” saw. I’m not a good enough of a woodworker to spend 2-3 thousand on a saw. I had narrowed it to this one or the Ridgid, I was leaning towards the Ridgid until I came across your reviews. I’m going to go buy the Delta because of your reviews. You do a nice job! I subscribed too
I'm wanting to install a zero-clearance fence like the one shown in your video, but the instructions say to remove the riving knife first to make the initial cut. How do I remove the riving knife and then re-install it? Thank you!
If you take off the throat plate there is a lever next to the riving knife. Flip the lever and you can pull the knife out. Goes back in the same way. Thanks for watching Chris!
Thank you. I am a beginner and am grateful to you for sharing your knowledge. I have been trying to figure out how to align my riving knife with the blade. I thought it was the zero clearance insert, then I thought it was the blade. Now they are aligned thanks to you!🎉
I hope I can find some help here. First off, I probably made a stupid mistake (I can't express how dumb I feel right now) and it's not Delta's fault so here we go: I've had this saw for a few months and only today did I try to tilt the blade to make some beveled cuts. However, as I was tilting the blade I noticed the throat plate started lifting up and quickly noticed the riving knife lock was upright (unlocked), so I locked it, put the throat plate back on and tried again. This time I noticed a little pressure as I tilted the blade and as soon as I was about to stop I heard a SNAP and loose metal. I snapped the riving knife lock in half. I think there's enough of the handle left to lock/unlock with some plyers, but I guess my question is: How was I supposed to tilt the blade? Even if I took the RK off the lock would still be in the way. I feel like a total moron, but I welcome any help. I still need to finish my project but now I'm paranoid of breaking something else.
Im a little confused by this one Kyle. I'll have to look at my saw but I don't know how that lever could contact anything if it's locked down. I tilted that saw 45 with the blade full up yesterday. Would you send me pick of the broken lever and surrounding area? Projectsforall60630@gmail.com.
@@ProjectsForAllReviews I think I might have figured it out, but it still seems like a potentially bad design. I think I had my blade too high. I had it set a little high so I had room for my digital angle gauge to fit because looking at it with the blade lowered, it doesn't seem like it should hit the throat plate at all. So that's my only guess. I'll shoot you an email with some pics, maybe you might have a different theory. Thanks for the help!
Thank you for posting this! It made set up of my new Table Saw painless and your tip in a previous video of using tool magnet bars to level the steel side plates to the cast iron table was not only genius it made my plates perfectly square and so easy to bolt together! Thank you!!!
I haven’t had that problem and I’ve used this saw days on end. I almost always use the zero clearance plate shown. The cheap Harbor Freight dust collector does a pretty good job clearing dust from the top. Thanks for watching!
So this is bothering me: I spent the last night just setting up my saw. And I’m talking meticulously squaring up and flattening every surface on the dang thing for a couple hours. Using a combination of damn near half my clamps, squares, levels, and the included components, I got the saw pretty much set up as square as I think I can. I’m sure I just suck at measuring accurately, but my crappy measuring technique and HF digital calipers tell me my fence is only off by .001 of an inch front to back in reference to the miter slot. I went to bed and figured I’d align the blade today, but now you are telling me that I have to just rely on Delta’s factory quality control people who are probably working their asses ragged 12 hour shifts at a time to make sure my blade is dead nuts? What if the blade is off by a few thousandths? I’m sure it wouldn’t be enough to make a claim with Delta, however I know that I’d personally try to get it closer, is there any backyard adjustment I can make? Or am I 100% in the hands of the delta factory on how straight my blade is in reference to my miter slots
Hello! Good to hear your setting it up right! To answer your question, yes there is no user adjustment to square the blade to the miter slot. When I did this vid I was confused by the delta manual. It talks about the importance of making sure it’s square but give no adjustments or instructions at all. I thought I was missing a page. So I pulled up a pdf of the Ridgid R4560 manual which is the same saw. It tells you to call Ridgid and provides a phone number if your blade is off. My blade was 100% square from the factory and still is after over 3 years. Measure yours and if it’s good I wouldn’t sweat it. Here’s a link to the Ridgid manual. As for your HF caliper, I used a plastic Pittsburgh caliper for years and always wondered about its real accuracy. I upgraded to one from Husky a couple years ago for about $30 and wonder about that one too. My point is I wouldn’t worry about being off by .001. I doubt my measuring tools are even that accurate. Let me know how it turns out. Thanks for watching!! images.thdstatic.com/catalog/pdfImages/88/883dc4a6-4e9e-4fcc-bbf0-08d8b1233a9c.pdf
I bought this saw two days ago and am also trying to very carefully set everything up. My blade is also off by a little more than 1/64". I was initially upset that I didn't know what I was going to do, but somebody on the facebook group for this saw pointed me to this YT video and it seems that it is adjustable. I'll have to give it a try tomorrow and hopefully I can get it squared up. ua-cam.com/video/CsTIFOB1QUc/v-deo.html
@@ProjectsForAllReviews My saw purchased at Christmas (just got the time to set up) had a number to call in the manual if the blade was not square. Mine was perfect!
The front to back alignment of the blade IS adjustable by the user. The manufacturer just doesn't want to share the info because they believe most users will mess up the saw.
This is true. I received instructions yesterday from Delta on how to adjust blade alignment to the miter slot. Very easy. I’m now adjusted to less than .001. 👍🏻
@@keith7630 Yup. I just adjusted mine Saturday. Just have to be careful to adjust in the proper direction so as not to throw off the fence measurement.
@@mikecarter8278 Here's a video that shows how to do it: ua-cam.com/video/CsTIFOB1QUc/v-deo.html There are matching bolts on the front end that you may have to use to adjust the front side. I screwed up the first time I did it and it threw off the measurement on my rip fence. If you square the fence to the slot first, then zero the fence and square the blade against it, you should be good.
I show how to check it in the video. If you mean how to adjust it then no it’s not owner serviceable. Not sure why they went with this design, the other saws I’ve reviewed to date can be adjusted. Thanks for watching!
I can't believe I've owned my TS for a couple years and have never known what the 90° and 45° adjustment holes were! Thanks a ton. I have been wondering how to set positive stops like this.
Good stuff. Just took delivery of this saw. Excited to set it up and start using.
Nice! Good luck with the new saw!
After much research it seems that your blade adjustment instructions are incorrect. You can find proper instructions with photos online for the older 36-725 saw. The two hex screws you want to adjust are under the dust shroud on the motor side of the blade assembly. All of your other instructions seem spot on. Thanks for the video.
Thanks. Mine needed a checkup
Glad to help Brent!
Setting up my first new saw (Delta 36-725T2). I was ready to start pulling my hair out while trying to figure out how to adjust the fence parallel to the miter slot. From the Delta instructions no details to locate the set screws. Black hardware on black metal makes finding things a little more difficult for 70 year-old eyes. Looked at several videos and no details on that alignment. Boom! Here you are showing me exactly what I needed to do. Easy peasy. Thank you. I owe you a subscription!
Yo Cuz just wanted to say I subscribed to you a couple months ago and your videos are remarkable ! The knowledge that you share is so appreciated ! I have had the same saw about 6 months and the same planer as well! Love your videos. Keep up the good work my Man!
Michael! Thank you I’m happy you like the channel! I’ll do my best to to keep it up!!👍
Just got one of these used. Back rail need adjusting it looks like. Any suggestions on doing that?
Perfect information shared in a simple concise manner! Exactly what I was looking for. BTW, I guess I'm about half as lazy as you, I've only ignored checking my adjustments for about 1 1/2 years. :-) New sub to your channel, I'll be back to check out your other videos after I get my saw adjustments done... now that I know how to do 'em. Thanks again!
I love getting these comments! Thank you! Happy I helped and thanks for the sub!
What is the purpose of 8:07? You don’t really explain that part? All the vids I watch explain aligning the blade by a different method.
Money isn't an issue, but it also isn't no issue. I like woodworking and get to make fun gifts for people who I care about so I really like these videos. Please keep them coming! I have an old Craftsman that worked for me until it didn't. I don't want to break the bank with a new Sawstop and this one seems to hit the sweet spot. I appreciate the videos you post.
With the blade angle stops, I like to have it adjusted so I have a bit more than what is needed. So instead of 45, I set it at say, 46. Then instead of 90, I move it to just PAST perfect ninety, so it's maybe one degree to the right. Then I use the scale to get close and use a speed square for my angle (bevel gauge for between 90 and 45). I was taught to never believe the scales, and check every time.
Thinks for the great videos on 36-725T2. Just bought and assembled (assembled twice to get it right). I want to upgrade the blade for cleaner cut and less noise during cut but I'm puzzled by the kerf and blade body thickness requirements (page 28 of owners manual). Delta states the blade kerf must be 2.6mm (0.102") thick or greater and the blade body no thicker than 1.8mm (0.073"). I can't find such a blade. I was wondering what blade you are using. Was considering the Diablo D1050X but kerf is too narrow. Any help / guidance would be appreciated. Thank you. Updated after some research 8-23-23. Boy, did I step into a complicated topic. Appears there is some flexibility with kerf thickness but width of blade body/plate should not exceed width of riving knife. UA-cam post by Stubby Nubbs re riving knife thickness was helpful. Summary: I'm going to try the Diablo D1050X since the blade thickness is less than riving knife thickness.
The eight bolts underneath that hold the assembly to the steel top I adjusted and I’m unable to get it to actually adjust. Would you say that it’s a warranty and I need to take it back?
so what do i do if blade is out of line with mitre slot? I loosened the 8 torx you pointed to but still can't adjust
i seem too have issues with the dust extraction with my ridgid 4560
Liked your video and for keeping it straight on point. You commented that you were sending back the Rigid... Any particular reason why - or maybe just because of the rust? I'm really needing a new saw (mine is 23yrs old - work out!). I wanted to get a DeWalt 36-725 but I guess there are some bad issues with the capacitors that they're using on them, I've been looking at going with the Rigid saw for a Delta. Can you give me your personal views on the rigid versus Delta in performance and handling when cutting material... mainly wood. Would really appreciate your feedback. Thanks for another awesome video!
Hello Bill! So the Ridgid R4520 I did a couple videos on was returned because of a machining error to the cast iron table. That saw as best I can tell is discontinued. Your other 2 options are the Delta 36-725T2 and Ridgid R4560 which are exactly the same. I have read about motor issues but haven’t experienced any of that for myself. My Delta has been perfect since new. Here’s the link for my overview of the Delta. Comment back if you have anymore questions. Thanks for watching!!
ua-cam.com/video/zIKFGcwaJ6s/v-deo.html
Thanks for the follow up! Looks like I'm caught in the short hairs... If I want a new saw, I have to go big or stay home! No one has (in stock) the Delta contractor saws... 5000 series is all that's in stock! Unless you of someone... Have ready been searching for the past two weeks! Really appreciate your thoughts. Bring almost 70 and would really like to retire and get back into woodworking 👍👊
@@billinfallon2634 I'm not sure where you are but Lowes will deliver!
As long as you are using the saw for general building projects, the ruler will suffice for squaring the blade. I would suggest using a tri square referenced against the miter slot. You can use the same process demonstrated, but if there is a discrepancy, the fixed measurement of the tri square will make it more visible.
The small discrepancies in blade alignment will make themselves very apparent when cutting miters or bevels. The mismatch of adjoining parts can lead to a great deal of frustration during a build.
Just my opinion/experience with blade alignment and detailed builds.
A solid comment and good tip Terry! Probably a topic worth a video of its own. Thanks for watching!
So there’s no blade adjustment….
missed one! The fence distance sight glasses. =)
I have this same Saw and I find that the black portion portion of the throat plate sits below the flush part of the blue plate.... Is there any adjustment for that?
If understand correctly, the throat plate dips below the table surface at the rear of the plate? Mine does too and it’s because the plate splits at the back and isn’t supported on one side.
Check out my Delta review vid and skip to 02:45. The mdf inserts are made by Callista woodworks and bought on Etsy. Hope this helps. There’s no adjustment on the plate itself If that’s what you meant.
ua-cam.com/video/zIKFGcwaJ6s/v-deo.html
Thanks for this. I am considering this saw and I was concerned about blade parallelism. I've owned two different contractor saws and, frankly, adjusting the trunion to align the blade is an exercise in frustration. Having said that, I'm not sure I like the fact that it's not user adjustable (although I suppose it actually is, just even more of a pain). My last saw was a Grizzly cabinet saw that was just too big and heavy to move cross-country, so I sold it (a move I really regret!). Adjusting parallelism on a cabinet saw is a breeze as it's all done while standing up. Cabinet saw have gotten crazy expensive which is why I'm considering this Delta.
90 degrees to the universe is not 90 degrees to the table top, so not sure how great that gauge really works.
The gauge is referenced off the table being set to 0 degrees then when it gets turned and put onto the blade it still is referencing the 0 degrees on the table to where it is now setting on the siide of the blade.
does anyone know the ground to table height of the the delta 36-725
does any one know the the ground to table height of the Delta 36-725T2
37 inches. Thanks for watching!
Thinking of getting this saw but was wondering if the motor went on it, could it be replaced with any 15A motor? Is there room for it?
Don’t know how easy it would be to install a different motor but mine has been perfect for a few years of hard use now. No weird noises or hiccups at all. Thanks for watching!
Such a good video, thank you so much - i learned about 10 important things about my saw in 10 minutes - one of the most valuable videos i have ever watched
well shot camera wise and well explained
Hi, remember the guy who kept asking about table saws from North America to be used on 220v/50Hz?
Just wanna say thanks for all the responses. Unfortunately I was unable to take advantage of the free shipping deal from Canada, because of compatibility issues with power. I finally got this from the UK. ua-cam.com/video/y_E6FVtgjKs/v-deo.html. Set me back about 2000 USD to purchase and ship to Nigeria. It's a lot of money, but it will ba all worth it in the end.
I appreciate your videos as a newbie venturing into woodwork. Please, keep them coming.
Hello again Ajizentu! I’m glad to hear you got it figured out! I’m glad you like the channel! We’ve got a lot of cool stuff to check out this year already. Should be a good time! Thanks again for watching!
I know you’ve probably heard this for ages, but you sound , and look, like Ray Romano. 😂 I really enjoy your “to the point” and excellent videos. Keep up the good work amigo! 👍🏼
Yep I hear it too. My beautiful wife says no way 😂 Thanks for watching!
14:56
Can u do a vide onn why youre returning the ridged?
The Ridgid R4520? It’s in the video for that saw. Miter slot was machined with a curve! Thanks for watching!
FENCE & REAR RAIL QUESTION (and others thoughts/ experiences): Does the fence “need” the ‘rear’ “rail clip” that hooks over the real rail? Have you tried it without (but still keep the white plastic pad in place)? Being the fromt clamp of the fence is pretty damn good. POINT to my question is, 1) easy removal of fence without sliding off/or up/over 2) I’d prefer not to have a rear rail so it’s flush with my outfeed table. I’d make my own wings that are supported so further no need for the rear rail.
I haven’t tried removing that clip but I’m sure it would be fine if you did. The rear rail is just a piece of angle iron and that white plastic pad rides on it. I think you’ll need to keep the rail. I suppose it would be possible to remove the rail and design the outfeed table to act as a rear rail but it would be slightly lower than the table surface. Hope this helps good luck!
How to keep the cast iron from rusting? Display at lowes looked like it would give you tetanus 😅
It’s true the display I saw before buying mine looked like it was outside in the rain for a couple years. I’ve had no trouble with mine 4 years later. My garage is only heated when I’m out there and it gets humid here in Chicago but no trouble with rust yet. A thin coat of oil would be good enough I’m sure. I have set a cold beer on there a few times and had to sand off a rust ring a couple days later but maybe your smarter than I am! Thanks for watching!
I check one out at Lowes the other day. The blade was out of parrallel in the store. If you can't adjust this, then I would say it is a no go. Maybe swap out the flat head screws on the trunions for slightly longer cap head and thick hardened washers an open the hoes in the trunion to allow adjustment?
That’s crazy! Mines still dead nuts after years. I went to Lowe’s to look at the floor model before I bought mine. Literally every part of the demo was broken and the top looked like it was out in the rain for months. I bought It just based on the size/weight and price. Definitely could be a factory defect but those floor models take quite a beating. Thanks for the comment!
Do you know if there are anyone on Etsy that's reputable that makes aftermarket extension wings for this saw? Currently I have the $350 skil job site my first saw, also the 10 in dewalt that I've been using the past 4 years or so. I want a saw with a bigger table, I've been holding out for a cabinet saw just don't want to spend the coin, I think this is my best choice. I would like some quality aftermarket extension wings though. Also I've been watching you for quite a while, love your in-depth reviews, a lot of channels constantly apologize for the length of their videos. lol Don't ever do that, you put a lot of thought and information into every minute it's highly appreciated
Oh yes, what's your best recommendation for a stud finder? I swear I never have luck with them
Not sure about Etsy Adam but Ive been planning to buy the Sawstop 27 inch deep cast iron wings for years. Last I looked they were about $300 a pair but would need to be drilled to fit. Thanks for saying that about the vid length. I was worried at first 25-30 min was pushing my luck. I try hard to keep the editing tight and not waste anyones time with padding and fluff. The red Skil table saw with the first long one and its over 200k views, put my mind at ease a little. As far as a stud finder I agree they all seem to be crap. Maybe soon Ill do some research and pick a few up to test. Thanks for watching!
Hi just got a look at your guide on the Delta saw. Had questions if you can give some fed of thoughts. Just picked up a Kobalt jobsite. Still in box is The Delta Woth it , including the Issues.
Yes! Even with the issues the big saws are worth it if you have the space to spare. Check out the DeWALT vid I just dropped! There is a little bit of contractor vs jobsite towards the end. Thanks for watching!!
The Saw Designed For Everybody? | DeWALT DWE7491RS | Review and All Adjustments
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Thanks! The 90 adjustment helped!
I have dealt with three of the issues you covered since getting mine as a return at Lowe’s and as thinking it was a piece of junk…after watching this video and making adjustments, I can say I could not have been more wrong…love the saw! Thanks so much!
Glad the video help!!! Thanks for watching!
I have been looking to upgrade my table saw from my very old Ryobi to a “good” saw. I’m not a good enough of a woodworker to spend 2-3 thousand on a saw. I had narrowed it to this one or the Ridgid, I was leaning towards the Ridgid until I came across your reviews. I’m going to go buy the Delta because of your reviews. You do a nice job! I subscribed too
Thank you! I’m very happy I helped!
I'm wanting to install a zero-clearance fence like the one shown in your video, but the instructions say to remove the riving knife first to make the initial cut. How do I remove the riving knife and then re-install it? Thank you!
If you take off the throat plate there is a lever next to the riving knife. Flip the lever and you can pull the knife out. Goes back in the same way. Thanks for watching Chris!
@@ProjectsForAllReviews Got it figured out! Thanks for the reply!
Thank you. I am a beginner and am grateful to you for sharing your knowledge. I have been trying to figure out how to align my riving knife with the blade. I thought it was the zero clearance insert, then I thought it was the blade. Now they are aligned thanks to you!🎉
Awesome Lourdes! Thanks for watching!
I hope I can find some help here. First off, I probably made a stupid mistake (I can't express how dumb I feel right now) and it's not Delta's fault so here we go: I've had this saw for a few months and only today did I try to tilt the blade to make some beveled cuts. However, as I was tilting the blade I noticed the throat plate started lifting up and quickly noticed the riving knife lock was upright (unlocked), so I locked it, put the throat plate back on and tried again. This time I noticed a little pressure as I tilted the blade and as soon as I was about to stop I heard a SNAP and loose metal. I snapped the riving knife lock in half. I think there's enough of the handle left to lock/unlock with some plyers, but I guess my question is: How was I supposed to tilt the blade? Even if I took the RK off the lock would still be in the way. I feel like a total moron, but I welcome any help. I still need to finish my project but now I'm paranoid of breaking something else.
Im a little confused by this one Kyle. I'll have to look at my saw but I don't know how that lever could contact anything if it's locked down. I tilted that saw 45 with the blade full up yesterday. Would you send me pick of the broken lever and surrounding area? Projectsforall60630@gmail.com.
@@ProjectsForAllReviews I think I might have figured it out, but it still seems like a potentially bad design. I think I had my blade too high. I had it set a little high so I had room for my digital angle gauge to fit because looking at it with the blade lowered, it doesn't seem like it should hit the throat plate at all. So that's my only guess. I'll shoot you an email with some pics, maybe you might have a different theory. Thanks for the help!
Thank you for posting this! It made set up of my new Table Saw painless and your tip in a previous video of using tool magnet bars to level the steel side plates to the cast iron table was not only genius it made my plates perfectly square and so easy to bolt together! Thank you!!!
Glad the video helped Marguerite! Thanks for watching!
Thank you! I bought the same saw this week and your videos cover a lot of things I haven't check out yet prior to using it. Very useful! Thanks again
Awesome! Happy I was able to help. Good luck with the new saw!
Do you throat plates get fouled with sawdust? I'm continually adjusting mine if I cut a bunch.
I haven’t had that problem and I’ve used this saw days on end. I almost always use the zero clearance plate shown. The cheap Harbor Freight dust collector does a pretty good job clearing dust from the top. Thanks for watching!
@@ProjectsForAllReviews Thank you for your help
So this is bothering me: I spent the last night just setting up my saw. And I’m talking meticulously squaring up and flattening every surface on the dang thing for a couple hours. Using a combination of damn near half my clamps, squares, levels, and the included components, I got the saw pretty much set up as square as I think I can. I’m sure I just suck at measuring accurately, but my crappy measuring technique and HF digital calipers tell me my fence is only off by .001 of an inch front to back in reference to the miter slot. I went to bed and figured I’d align the blade today, but now you are telling me that I have to just rely on Delta’s factory quality control people who are probably working their asses ragged 12 hour shifts at a time to make sure my blade is dead nuts? What if the blade is off by a few thousandths? I’m sure it wouldn’t be enough to make a claim with Delta, however I know that I’d personally try to get it closer, is there any backyard adjustment I can make? Or am I 100% in the hands of the delta factory on how straight my blade is in reference to my miter slots
Hello! Good to hear your setting it up right! To answer your question, yes there is no user adjustment to square the blade to the miter slot. When I did this vid I was confused by the delta manual. It talks about the importance of making sure it’s square but give no adjustments or instructions at all. I thought I was missing a page. So I pulled up a pdf of the Ridgid R4560 manual which is the same saw. It tells you to call Ridgid and provides a phone number if your blade is off.
My blade was 100% square from the factory and still is after over 3 years.
Measure yours and if it’s good I wouldn’t sweat it. Here’s a link to the Ridgid manual.
As for your HF caliper, I used a plastic Pittsburgh caliper for years and always wondered about its real accuracy. I upgraded to one from Husky a couple years ago for about $30 and wonder about that one too. My point is I wouldn’t worry about being off by .001. I doubt my measuring tools are even that accurate. Let me know how it turns out.
Thanks for watching!!
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I bought this saw two days ago and am also trying to very carefully set everything up. My blade is also off by a little more than 1/64". I was initially upset that I didn't know what I was going to do, but somebody on the facebook group for this saw pointed me to this YT video and it seems that it is adjustable. I'll have to give it a try tomorrow and hopefully I can get it squared up.
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@@ProjectsForAllReviews My saw purchased at Christmas (just got the time to set up) had a number to call in the manual if the blade was not square. Mine was perfect!
5 Star Video ⭐
This was so helpful
I just assembled this saw yesterday. thank you. this video is so helpful
Love to hear I helped! Thanks Denny!
The front to back alignment of the blade IS adjustable by the user. The manufacturer just doesn't want to share the info because they believe most users will mess up the saw.
This is true. I received instructions yesterday from Delta on how to adjust blade alignment to the miter slot. Very easy. I’m now adjusted to less than .001. 👍🏻
@@keith7630 Yup. I just adjusted mine Saturday. Just have to be careful to adjust in the proper direction so as not to throw off the fence measurement.
@@Carrpocalypsewould you be able to email the instructions?
@@mikecarter8278 Here's a video that shows how to do it:
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There are matching bolts on the front end that you may have to use to adjust the front side. I screwed up the first time I did it and it threw off the measurement on my rip fence. If you square the fence to the slot first, then zero the fence and square the blade against it, you should be good.
This is the best adjustment video I have seen. Thank you.
Glad the video helped Tom! Thanks for watching!
So any answer or update on how to check how parallel the blade is to the guide line?
I show how to check it in the video. If you mean how to adjust it then no it’s not owner serviceable. Not sure why they went with this design, the other saws I’ve reviewed to date can be adjusted. Thanks for watching!
You actually can square up the blade to the rail, see here ua-cam.com/video/CsTIFOB1QUc/v-deo.html
Great vid btw very helpful and no time wasted ✌️