How Pool Plumbing SHOULD be put together.
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- Опубліковано 26 сер 2024
- This video is a quick overview on how a pool should be plumbed. BASIC planning will go a long way to creating a efficient and easy to service filtration system. components include: Pump, cartridge filter, gas heater, salt chlorinator , and drain to waste port. See more at www.leisurepool...
Your pool pump inlet should be further from the diverter. Inlet length is supposed to be AT LEAST 5x longer than the di of the pipe.
This dude has a pump half primed, and all those 90’s and unions this is a terrific setup. Just think he is out here teaching people this method.
Hahahahaahahahah
The discharge pipe should be longer. To optimize head flow you want to have at least 4 times the diameter of the pipe in length. (2" pipe needs 8" length minimum)
Here are some points I would like to make as food for thought. The difference between the common 90 and the sweep 90 is 4.3US gallons/min, which works out to 258US gallons/hr. As I mentioned, it doesn’t look like much, but let’s go just a bit further with it. 258US gallons/hr is 6192US gallons in a 24-hour period. Your setup is terribly inefficient
Agreed. Each 90° turn is equivalent to 8’ft of plumbing length. He’s losing efficiency at every turn.
Since you're an efficiency expert I have a question for you. When my pump was installed, the installer would take lines leaving the filter run them on the ground. When ever the lines crossed other lines he would install a 90 degree elbow go up 8 to 12 inches vertically, install another 90, go over the intersection, install another 90 down to the ground, another 90 and continue with the run. Basically making a overpass. Two questions would that cause a lose of pressure at the jets going into the pool, and 2nd would air collect in the elevated piping that would cause a blockage of water flow? Or does the pump have enough power to push the air out when started?
@@johnnyrocket9372 Yes to both questions. Your pump would need to prime for Longer than needed to remove the air gap. Then when the pump slowed to filtration RPM the air gap will form again. But there are many other factors to examine. Plumbing size. Pump size. Type of pump variable or fixed. Distance from the pool. Have another pool pro come look at the setup and give their opinion
@@jbright97 thanks for the response. Always made me wonder.
Not sure if you saw my recent post on tips for valves on returns and skimmers and some general tips on plumbing design but would appreciate your thoughts. I can repost to this thread if it doesn’t appear. Thanks
I love the modularity. It makes it very easy to replace any part.
While this plumbing is clean looking compared to many installations there are a number of major problems with this installation that certainly do not qualify as what a "proper install" looks like. Most notably there is no check valve in between your heater and the salt cell. I am not surprised that you do not like gas heaters since your customer will be replacing that one in less than 5 years. Less than 2 if they cycle their pump on and off multiple times per day. The flow dynamics themselves are acceptable until you reach the salt cell. The flow meter is not installed correctly. To achieve reliable contact with a mechanical flow meter like this you need a straight unobstructed pipe run on both sides of the meter. 10x the pipe diam before and 4 times the pipe diameter following the meter. You do not have anywhere near to the correct run here. In terms of the flow dynamics you would be well advised to insist to your customer that you create a larger pad so you do not need to create flow restrictions with 90 degree fittings so close together. Sorry to rain on your parade - as I said it is a nice and clean looking install but if you are going to advertise this video as how it "should" look you should revisit these glaring oversights.
Brenden Trower In a lot of municipalities if you zone in a heater you then need to add a pressure release valve which is expensive so many pool companies install them like this to save a few dollars. Like $100 dollars. And yes, without a bypass to take the heater offline during periods of chemical imbalance the life of the heater will be dramatically reduced.
You do know when you install a bypass for the heater and use it. That water is still in the heater just sitting there, so if you bypass it when the PH is off it's still in there chilling in the heat exchange. Only way to make a heater bypass actually work is to take out the drain plugs and drain out all the water.
But honestly if you put the chlorinator or Salt Cell and the end of the system and install a chem check valve behind it, you really don't have to many problems. And if the customer can't be bothered to get his chemicals right, then he probably shouldn't have a heater.
It's healthier for the heater to actually run every day for at least 15 min to get thous switches moving and working to light a fire on the heat exchange to brake off build up. To heat up to keep rodents out. A quick way to brake a heater is to just let it sit there and not be used.
Plissken Snake It is also worth noting that the heater bypass also gives you the ability to regulate the flow of water through the heater...not just simply on and off. With many heaters having a maximum designed flow rate near 125 GPM, and many large pumps like the Intelliflo (145 GPM) or Ecostar (160 GPM) able to meet and exceed these values it can be useful to have a three zone bypass installed to allow some of the system water to skip the heater. This way the heater is not running at or near maximum designed flow rates every day of its life.
Looks wrong to me too lol n.e.r.d huh? Never. ever. really .did plumbing?
Agree with Steve on the 90s in there. Way too many, and too close together. The pump won't make anywhere near rated flow unless the intake is at least 2 feet from the closest 90. When I did my pool, I outlawed 90 elbows on the installation. I bought 20' of flex 2" PVC. The only 90 elbows allowed were in the dual bottom drains. My pump flows gangbusters.
Plumb job looks very clean and well done, but in some places excessive. Also taking into consideration the video is old, but what is the point of having 3 valves on influent side of pump intake? I can understand, for winterizing pool purpose on returns, but not necessarily a must have either. As well as it has been my experience that those ball aren't as durable or reliable as "jandy" style 3 way valve. Doesn't the 3 way valve for main & skimmer already suit the purpose of diverting water flow? Also, from a maintenance perspective if the 3 way valve goes bad you can replace the insides (gate, o-ring & etc...), so the 2 Union/ball valves seem excessive. I also recommend a threaded/slip union(I prefer Haywards) on pump intake & output, bc unfortunately no matter how good of a pool guy you are home owners & renters alike can introduce circumstances causing pump running hot disfigured male adapters rendering them unrepairable, in this case it's much easier to replace the threaded half of union then to replace half a union, pipe & male adapter. I was surprised you didn't make mention that the choice of millivolt heater also accommodates scale forming condition introduced from salt system(chlorine generator) bc they have rust resistant water path. I agree heat pumps are the way to go as long as use of pool is in climate of above 50°F and too understand the reasoning for that customer's situation being he uses so late into the year. Personally I hate cartridge & D.E. filters, although you have to use what works best for the overall scenario of the pool. I prefer sand filters w/ vitroclean media. Also take note, I live in a vacation oceanfront island with seasonal vacationers, so with the elements in which we deal with sand filters just overall work best. As you probably are well aware of there are tons of pros and cons in filter and sanitizer choices, hard to say there is any one way that is the best for all scenarios. Looks like you do great work! Keep it up, the Pool community needs more educated people out there doing things correctly!! - OBX, NC
THE cleanout on the top of the pump (clear viewing )why is it not completly full of water ? . mine is completly full of water no air bubbles etc.
Why is there a tee fitting below the salt cell? Path of least resistance would be straight thru the tee fitting to the outlet side of the salt cell, instead of sending full flow thru the salt cell. Can see the tee fitting I am referring to at 2:20. I Also don’t see a tee fitting with a sacrificial anode and bonding wire? Why wouldn’t you recommend a sacrificial anode on a salt pool??
I also don’t see a bypass to isolate the heater. Bypass is useful to isolate the heater from pump flow while getting the water chemistry correct.
Pipe and valving work indeed looks neat and clean on this setup. Might work, but I don’t agree with the title of this video.
Well i guess we have different customers in different locations. People here can not be convinced to yank the cartridges out when they vacuum up waste. Glad to know your customers have the extra time and patience
Holy shit Scott, I am an absolute idiot as it has never crossed my mind that I could do that. Thank you for this information. I grew up in Florida and have never heard anyone mention this option. Although most probably thought it was self-evident and that only an idiot would need to be told this. And they weren't wrong but I appreciate it nonetheless. Thank you!!!
The pool pump is not even fully primed up. THe autopilot salt cell is in the manifold upside down. You should get into sweep 90s or street 45s.
You have ball valves before the 3-way valve on the intake side, and after the 3-way on the return. Were the ball valves original and the 3-ways were added later, or is there some purpose to the redundant valves?
I'm installing a cartridge filter. I noticed you installed the diverter valve for waste after the cartridge. I'm planning on installing the diverter valve prior to the water reaching the inlet of the filter. The reason is mainly for opening the pool. Most times when opening my pool, there is a lot of debris (worms, leaves etc) in the pool. I'd like to vacuum that to waste so all that debris doesn't go right to the filter. I assume this is ok. Is there a problem with pressure or anything else while water is diverted away from the filter when the pool is running?
Tony C Makes sense to me, why filter water you are purging from your system.
skimmer and drain have shutoff valves ... why use a diverted in front of the pump?
I've been in the pool business for 25 years and I've seen some of the worst pool plumbing to the best. I would be happy to work on this system. It has plenty unions and room to work. Yes it has a lot of elbo's and no check valve between heater and salt system. But who cares? It hasn't been a problem for most of my career in tennessee. I never see check valves and never see problems with the heater or heat exchangers.
ghosturd77 I absolutely agree with you sir in 25 years I haven’t had one problem due to excessive 90’s!!!
FYI there shouldn't be so much air in pump basket area. its pulling air from intake line, might need to check that out. other than that clean set-up brew
That or a dirty filter
Beautiful pool set up guys new friend here supporting
Gas heaters may be cheaper than heat pumps to put in BUT they cost a lot more to operate. Additionally most gas heaters have copper heat exchangers which will corrode and fail if a salt system is ever installed.
Yes. Injecting (or creating CL via salt cell) before the heater will dramatically decrease the life of the heater. If you are using a salt system make sure you have a heater with a titanium (or cupro nickel lexchanger so it will resist corrosion and failure.
Nice video. I'm curious to why the discharge is after the filter. Filtering discharged water doesn't seem to make much sense. I'd love to hear your input on the reasoning! Have a Happy Holiday.
Thats a backwash ...its how you clean filter container
Doesn't a bottom drain plug do the same thing? It drains the tank away from the pool too?
how do you do a tutorial video and use ball valves?
you should add high temp threaded unions to pressure and suction side of pump
High temp threaded unions? You have no fucking clue what you're talking about.
All unions are threaded first off, and there's no such thing as "high temp unions". Putting a union anywhere on a suction line is just stupid if actually done, though I've never seen it.
Suction lines should run directly to a 3-way valve then into a Praher union before accessing the pump.
I've installed 12 heaters so far in 2021 and I've still not come across one of these "high temp unions" you speak of, do you get them off the horn of a unicorn?
Hello, would you mind providing your professional expertise with how laminars should be plumbed?
Nice setup. I would only recommend moving the backwash (drain) like to before the filter. We do this for when we open our pools and vacuum to waste that is doesn't dirty the filter.
Another question is why you put ball valves in the suction line before the 3 way?
What? The backwash is literally the water in the filter... How can you release the filter water before it reaches the filter?
Think hes on about vacing to waste and hasnt got a multiport valve
Thank you so much learning a lot from you🎉
Is it just me or are there way too many short 90's used in plumbing the equipment? Why weren't sweep elbows used instead?
If you already have 3 way valves. What is the point of adding the ball valves. No need for them.
And why not a electronic ignition heater?
The diverted are used to control flow. The ball stops are used to shut off the water and prevent a loss of prime when the system is opened up. Allowing air in the lines makes reprime much harder. Ball stops prevent that air from enter the pipes and the water going back to the pool.
@@LuxuryPoolsandLiving
I would add a jandy check valve before the pump and make sure that you don't have any leaks within the system.
Props on the clean plumbing though. I like seeing level plumbing.
I leave more pipe between valves and connections in case of future cuts. Valves are expensive and you want to be able to use them. I’m not a fan of connectors which can be prone to leaking, plus they’re expensive. Fittings are cheap. Not a fan of ball valves. They don’t last.
thanks a lot for posting this video....I'm thinking of getting a fiberglass pool and this just gave me a better understanding of the plumbing. Just one thing! I want a water heater but im confused about the type and brand. I need some thing to be powerful. You mentioned something about electric over gas heater. Can you explain why? Thanks!
It appears there are wires running on gravel to the chlorine generator. Is that code there? The pump was pulling air. Also you can wrap a rag around the male adapter, and then put your channel locks on to tighten. This keeps from scarring pvc, and a better appearance.
What do you think about people that say they should paint your plumbing that's in the sun is it that important or not really
There is benefit. Its not a thing north of Nashville much. It does protect the plumbing from UV and certainly looks nice. We do things different from this video as the years have gone by but painting is not one of them.
I know this vid is long in the tooth, but I'm hoping you might still field a Q that this raises at 2:20 in - as you pan to the salt cell: it appears to me that the circuit through that cell is a loop that must contend for flow with what looks to me like a simple, straight-through slip coupling (that has 3 stickers still on it). In other words, water can flow straight through that line, OR it can turn through the 1st Tee, go up and over to drop down through the salt cell and rejoin the other line at the 2nd Tee, which I'd GUESS would radically diminish flow THROUGH the cell. Am I missing something, or is that beneficial in some strange way?
Salt cell optimal gpm is 25 to 80. The loop prevents it going over 80 so the salt cell operates optimally.
@@coronanick9293 Thank you for the RE: !
However, I'm still a tad dubious - perhaps misguided in assuming that the straight-through path is a simple pipe WITHOUT any "intelligence" like a pressure-regulator or such: IS there anything inside that pipe (under the decal/label/whatever the black sleeve with the unreadable markings might be)? If not, it's easy to envision that this PROBABLY prevents exceeding 80gpm through the long-way-around loop (through the salt cell) but it leaves (in my mind, at least) room for doubt that the MINIMUM of 25 gpm is assured. Of course, I have NO IDEA WHATSOEVER what the actual flow is coming into that split pathway. Without going back to see if I can determine this, I'm guessing the pump may be a variable, like mine, such that it might be dialed in within some reasonable range?
(On a total sidebar, having nothing to do with this vein of inquiry: my cell started to fail, yielding wonky numbers on the control panel: lying about the salt content. Not thinking to verify by testing, I made the quick calculation and added a bunch of salt. Not seeing the change I expected, and STILL too dense to test for verification, I added MORE. Only when THAT failed to make things right did I FINALLY test manually. WOW - it was 8000 instead of 3200 - which totally FRIED the already failing cell! With the water rationing and low rainfall from the drought this has meant that I STILL can't risk ruining a new replacement - so I'm still WAY too high to run my chlorinator. Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaa, he whined....)
@@palewriter1856 you should drain some water, refill and check salt content. The loop essentially prevents the salt generator from getting too much gpm, above 80 so it works optimally.
@@coronanick9293 Yes, I understand that simple generality, but you just repeated yourself - without answering my question at all.
I'm in agreement with Steve on his points mentioned. I do also see other issues.First, the pump is starving for water because the inlet pipe size from the skims and main drain are TOO small. 1.5" pipe? It should be a minimum of 2.5" PVC on the inlet side. 1.5" pipe on suction lines is a recipe for disaster regarding suction entrapment. The water velocity is so damn high in that size.Why have 2 additional ball valves on the inlet side when a 3 way is in place? The insider diameter of the diverter ball in an 1.5" valve is tiny. No wonder the pump starves.6" of straight pipe minimum is needed prior to any 90 degree elbow at 2" size. If space is an issue, Waterway has sweep els that offer less restriction than a conventional 90.The Autopilot salt cell comes as a kit and the cell is oriented that way-not great but that's how they set them up.Not a fan of gas heaters? It's a millivolt heater to boot. Why? Electronic ignition heaters have been around for 20 years and are far more reliable. Besides, gas heat outperforms other types in temp turnaround. I'm not a fan of heat pumps-too big, too much power needed, slow to heat.The set up is neat and clean but the water hydraulics is a major flaw in this equipment set.
2.5" is overkill. We don't know the THP of the pump as well.
Aaron I respectfully disagree. After over 30 + plus years in service and construction, we are able to fine tune our plumbing set ups. We have very often run 3'" for our main drains-now we actually use approved strip drains instead.
The difference in performance with 2.5" over smaller sizes much better. You can still get a good suction should you decide to use that line manually vacuuming without any pump cavitation.We use sweep pressure 90's and heat bend for turns when we can.2" pipe is even too small. I see typical pools, like this one, based on small equipment set, are using 1 HP pumps. Not so much because the contractor chose it, but rather this is what the suppliers mostly carry. The previous pump may have been too big and the new contractor assumed the previous installer knew what he was doing.Granted, this may a new set up on an older pool and the contractor is "stuck" with what piping was run. This can be overcome by utilizing a smaller pump to allow a pump to function properly. There's a balance as the proper turnover rate is necessary to keep a pool sanitized.Most importantly-NO FLEXIBLE PVC. It's known for insect infestation and high levels of chlorine will destroy it. (Repairing one now because of high CL)It also reduces water flow because of it's ribbed interior.
Your pipe size is driven by the flow required from a pre-calculated pump on a certain size pool or spa and it's distance from the vessel. It's important to perform the calculations to determine this. The equipment manufacturers have tech support to help someone determine this. It's a good practice to get into.A lot of times a smaller pump is needed and if you are competing against another contractor on a bid, you can demonstrate this to a client. Smaller pumps are less expensive and our customer's appreciate spending less money.
In California it's required to replace a main filtration pump with a variable speed 1.65hp/2.0hp/2.7hp and generally I go off the prior pump THP and existing pipe size and features.
I believe that all new pool construction does require 2.5" like you stated. Looks like I will have to adjust using the 2.5" going forward.
It's interesting that you mention the flexible PVC, because I was thinking that would be a better direction for the skimmer to pump and main drain. The idea of this was to prevent pool skimmer issues down the line.
I am aware of California's requirements. The VS pumps not only are energy efficient, but they can also allow you to "dial in" a flow rate. We have been using them on new builds even though our pools are seasonal. We definitely use them for indoor pools.The 2.5" is a good starting point for a basic pool. Some pools will have different requirements based on turnover rate and volume. It may require you to run larger pipe. Again, doing the calculations is good practice. This is especially important on public/commercial pools.Flexible PVC has been known for many years as being problematic. I too am guilty of using it on projects years ago until I became informed of their problems. We would mainly use them on bottom drains and spa jets for ease of installation. It was always known as spa hose, as portable spas manufacturers used it for their plumbing. If there was ever an issue, it was fairly accessible-once you got through the spray foam.The only reason I can think why contractors are still using it is because the trenches do not need to be straight and in rolls of 50' or 100' it's basically rolled out with connections at both ends.Take the time to dig trenches to accommodate rigid PVC and heat bend if necessary. A electrician's hot box, blanket or our preference a propane fired gun made by Hot Bend-highly recommend. We heat bend everything on irregular or round spas. We heat bend 90 percent of our conduit runs too.Use pressure sweep 90's when needed. High quality valves on equipment sets. We don't use ball valves at all.
Is this type of pvc of UV resistant type or will you be required to wrap, paint or cover your equipment. I know some areas like SoCal require some type of protection for pvc pool piping exposed to direct sun. Thanks for sharing.
Steve Lopez when I do plumbing I spray paint my pipes black, helps cover any excess primer or glue and prevents the pipes from becoming too brittle in the direct sunlight here in Bakersfield, CA.
Maybe I misunderstood but if you have a millivolt heat pump then you have solved the world's energy problem. Those three-ways can do everything you "should" be doing to your pool, the ball valves are redundant. I like many of the unions some might not be necessary though. The drain plug in the filter serves the same purpose as your bypass valve. If you wanna frequently vacuum your pool to waste that union after the pump would be the handiest. Salt systems are not that complicated. Use less fittings.
You should put the 3 way before not after the cartridge filter. Common mistake, but a bad one! Goldline low salt (1200ppm) is the only way to go.
How so..? That's how I've seen it done..
@@oscarc6949 🤦
I like that the owner flirts with December with that fossil fuel heater, a True man indeed.
Does a broken pool valve affect the way a pool pump works?, because I believe I hear air escaping from the broken valve, and the water isn't swirling as hard as it was before when I look at the water turning at the top of the pump.
So if the Autopilot cell is in backwards does it remove chlorine from the water?
Do you need a valve for every return and skimmer? I am just about to start construction on my 20x40 rectangle and want to minimize the number of above ground valves and pipe? If it is ok to tie returns and skimmers lines together where is the best spot? I am using 2 skimmers, likely a main drain but would like to hear your thoughts on deleting that and either 3 or 4 returns. All hard 2” pvc with a 2.25 HP VSP, 31” sand filter, likely a heat pump, salt chloronator. I’m only concerned with space and problems using too many valves. Thanks
8 months late so you probably went ahead and did your thing, but just in case you have another project or someone stumbles on your comment, VALVE EVERYTHING individually.
I am a pool and pond contractor myself and when it comes to Vacuuming, you're gonna want control of your skimmers flow. Also more important than that, is you want equal suction from the pool skimmers and equal return of the jets. Water takes the path of least resistance, so if you have say 4 jets inline, jet 1 will push the strongest and jet 4 will be weak, if it even gets flow at all. This creates obvious circulation issues which can affect water quality and create "dead zones" in the pool where stuff goes to settle.
So I am having a pool installed. The plumbers were out on friday and rough piped the pool. The odd thing is they mixed the primer with the glue. So they made a 2 step process into 1.
That is not how glue and primer are designed and work. If it was OK the manufacturer would make it that way. The glue joints are compromised and will not hold.
@@matthewray8369 Agreed. Talk about being lazy. I guess they wanted to save time. Haste makes waste. The primer is used for a reason. It primes the surface and make cohesion possible. I wonder what other short cuts they will be taking?
Watching this after working on some 315 and 250mm makes me feel like a giant
Is it possible to create a video on “how to” close off poop valves from below grades.
I’m having a difficult time understanding this. Beginner 101
Class in session pls
i thought you said you were a plumbing geek, where is the isolation valve for the heater when it is not needed?
Bypass is becoming a thing of the past. It is believed that leaving BAD water in the heater for an extended period is worse than just continuing to let water run through it. Assuming your water is balanced as it should be why the need to bypass?
Hey question for you, I have a 30 by 30 round above ground pool which holds 22000 gallons of water and I have a DE filter from Hayward it's in ec50 theme stores put a drain hose underneath and a main drain in the middle and installed a ball valve before the skimmer was that done correctly? When I vacuum I shut that valve off which is connected to the hose before the skimmer line
Yes it will. What you are hearing is actually air being sucked in and thereby causing the pump to not fully prime up. When you turn the pump off it will alos allow air back in the line and the water to run all the pool. This will make the prime up process harder as well. Best note....get it fixed. :-)
im a newbie. since pump is above the water do i need a check valve, below the water line or inline with the intake?
Good question. They are used for 'locking' the water at the equipment pad when the equipment is taken apart for cleaning. this will make the prime up process MUCH easier and almost instant. They are also used for 'Air Locking' the system durring the winter. I realize the diverters COULD do some of that but why not make it as SIMPLE for the owner as possible...?? Thanks Jeff.
Or anther thing to charge the customer for. As a fellow pool builder and repair tech, doubling up in the valves in the suction side and return side is not nessasery
Missing a heater bypass, there's one for the drain but should have one for the heater.
Heater manufactures are getting away from bypass. They would rather the heater be taking all the water all the time even if unbalanced OVER the risk of leaving bad water just sit in there for long periods of time.
IF I SEND YOU A VIDEO OF MY POOL IM INSTALLING CAN YOU TELL ME IF ITS CORRECT?
I just bought a new home and had pool guy come over but wasn't very knowledgable, so I unclogged my skimmer line myself. I wanted to ask you how to get sweeper to work on other drain or skimmer line ad other side of pool? First time owning a pool.
If you connect the vacuum line to the skimmer, you should then turn the lower drains off so that all of the vacuum power is focused on the vacuuming. if the drains are home run back to the pump then there should be a valve you can turn off. If the drain is plumbed up into the bottom of the skimmer then there is (or should) be a plate the you adjust to block off that line coming up through the bottom. hope that helps.
Matthew
I'd also go 2" plumbing on 1hp or up. You build friction trying to push that much flow through a small pipe.
Aren’t you supposed to have 10 times the pipe diameter I. Straight length before the pump? I haven’t seen many examples that do have that, and certainly not this one.
Cartridge filters dont require backwashing. Thats one of the benifits of them. The 'drain to waste valve' is a valve that allows a place for the dirty water to exit while your cleaning the filter. There is nothing more aggravating than to clean you pool and filter only to have a 'poof' of dirt get sent back to the pool when you turn the system back on.
I like the unions because I always wonder about a repair job when I see a huge manifold all glued up. I will insist upon this when I get my pool built.
Exactly my thought
Hey guys I’m trying to get the proper sizing for my pipes I’m installing for deck jet and they are each 5 GPM I have the loop set up from 1 inch to 3/4 and then out but my main line I’m curious if I should just go with 1 inch or 1 1/2 any suggestions
We recommend that your largest system pipe size (1.5" or 2") all the way to the loop. Size down to 3/4 at the deck jets only. We reduce only have about a 16" of pipe in 3/4" connecting our T to the deck jet. This helps efficiency quite a bit.
Thanks a lot that really did help I’m going to do exactly what you just told me and I have a bout a 14 inch on the three-quarter pipe so that was a plus
Now my only problem is is I do not like sharp 90s I prefer a long radius 90s instead
Why both a diverter valve and individual ball valves on the inlet side?
We don't plumb like this anymore but still use diverters and ball stops. The diverter gives the operator more control of exact flow (skimmer / drain) and the ball stops are for opening and servicing the equipment and winterization.
@@LuxuryPoolsandLiving excellent thanks. My equipment is six feet up from the pool and and I'll rearrange the piping to focus on efficient flow and preventing backflow, but organize real estate so that it can accommodate a diverter for fine tuning in the future
That is so many elbos... That is so much resistance on that pump.
Got a question guy has 2 sets of return lines
His buddy seat return are not busted but the 2 returns inside pool are leaking guys got a ball valve on bad return line is it ok to close off ball valve to bad return and I removed handle will it be fine till he get his return line fixed
Im not totally following the scene our dealing with. The answer is probably. Turning off the valve to the leaking line is the right call but depending on how bad the break is... you may still loose water from the pool due to gravity leakage.
I capped both the bad returns it had just 1 in shallow and 1 in deep end
Luckily they got a buddy seat and those 2 returns in buddy seat are ran
Separately.Pools up and running running fine.Thank you for the help
Should the winterizing
diverted be before the filter?
If you had the need or desire to vac to waste without removing the filter that would be OK. Having the drain to waste after allows you to purge the last bit of contaminated water out of the system before sending it back to the pool and soiling the pool.
That explains that! Fantastic setup.
Nice clean setup great job
1.5 horse power pump. It is servicing a 20k pool at the same elevation.
How would i assort my pipe for a sand filter, cartridge, and a DE filter with a electric heater. 2x
Typically you would not use multiple filters in a single system. If you simply mean how to install each....the same layout out applies for all types. the only exception may be to add a 'drain to waste' discharge off a sand filter.
Is there a reason the heater is before the salt cell? I am looking to install an electric heat pump and was going to connect it right after the cell as the last thing before returning to the pool. Thanks!
In case your still needing an answer, Chlorinator or salt unit must be after heater, with a check valve between heater and salt cell. Pump , filter, heater, check valve, salt cell/chlorinator. 🤙😉
I want to redo my plumbing like yours! My jacuzzi and pool intake are right next to each other so can I put 90's on them to spread them apart for the diverter valves? Also I want to divert from the pool heater so it does not go through it unless I am heating the jacuzzi. Is this wise?
Putting a heater bypass is not always a good idea. The industry is getting away from it and some heater manufacturers are not allowing it. The reason is basically a fear of BAD water (unbalanced or over chlorinated) sitting in the heater while its bypassed and causing ex-changer damage.
You want the waste valve BEFORE the filter! Not after the filter. You want to be able to vaccume to waste, before going through filter.
IF you want to vac to waste - Remove the cartridge and vac to waste. The diverter MUST be after a cartridge filter so that you can purge the dirty water from the canister on restart up. If not you will puff dirt back to the pool every single time you service the filter.
I have a cracked valve on my pool pump plumbing maybe I could send you a picture and you could tell me what I need to fix this?
Great video. I can see how the way you plumbed the system can greatly aid in servicing any parts should they fail and need to be replaced. I'm replacing a bad diverter valve and would like to plumb the new valve the way you have in the video. Can you please tell me the name of the blue handle valves you're using prior to the diverter as well as the name of the union after the diverter? Also, what brand of diverter valve are you using? Thanks!
Praher Union Ball Valves
Please tell me where the PVC Unions come from. The ones I find in Texas are super big. Both Sch 40 and Sch 80 are very big. Thanks!
We get most of our supplies from SCP.
Not to bad of a system. Only problem i seen was the pump wasnt catching a full prime. And everyone that has a pool should be considering upgrading to a d.e. Filter fyi.
+joseph gonzalez - Agreed. I've run a Hayward DE for close to ten years and I've never seen water so clear. Dive in with a mask and the clarity is stunning.
BUT, I'm shopping around for a sand filter now because I'm getting tired of the maintenance, and opening with a green pool is a major PITA since the DE clogs up so quickly the first day or so.
Here's a hot tip tho, reliable sources tell me that adding a cup or so of DE to a sand filter will give you the same clarity. Put it in the skimmer, just enough to raise the pressure a pound or so, and you need to re-add it when you backwash but seems to me the way to go.
Do you backwash to the waste outlet?
You did a nice job piping and installing isolation valves but one big mistake was made. Since the pool heater can be isolated a relief valve ( tpr ) & relief pipe is required in United States . In Canada , a relief valve is required no matter what ( isolation valves or not).
y have a diverter valve at the suction manifold when the skimmer and drain already have valves......waste of money. and raypak is the way to go heater wise
Dave Hancock a better question is why have two cheap ball valves when all you need is one good diverter valve?
Man, way too many people with single track minds. I imagine everyone commenting is probably from a state like Cali with very different regulations for plumbing a pool. Also, a few sweep elbows isn't going to mean much if all the piping under ground is all hard 90s.
I am getting ready to convert my inground pool to salt and would love to repipe all of my equipment. I have no idea where to start and have decided to try to find help. Seems there are a lot of concerns about the number of 90's used. What about 45's? Anyone willing to offer assistance or advice would be great.
Use sweep 90s
Ima be the only one that doesnt think i know what im talking about and just say keep on keeping on
The 90 turned down into the ground is for drain pipe not pressure pipe.
Hopefully this answer is not buried below in the comments... How did you make your joints so clean? Assuming you used PVC primer and glue. Or are the pipes/joints painted? Thanks
Clear glue and clear cleaner should be used on connections about grade and visible. Purple primmer and Blue glue should be used below grade. Blue is a better quality product.
Dye testing cones can take the place of cumbersome pressure testing and quickly tell you whether the pool plumbing is good or bad. Pressure testing that is hard to do properly- if one plug leaks slightly the test will show a false positive and your on a really bad goose chase. www.poolleakacademy.com/dyetestingcones.html
@Nine-- The purpose of the drain to waste to allow the contaminated water to exit the filter after restart and not send it back to the pool so it HAS to come after the filter. Putting it in front of the filter accomplishes nothing.
WHATS WITH THE UNIONS
too many 90° fittings. 1 90 = 8' of pipe.
Chris. Straub what does that mean? Thanks
It means that you lost the same amount of energy to friction in each 90 fitting as you would in 8' of pipe. If anything it might be even worse than 8 feet...but if you have a system with a bunch of extra fittings you are losing the same energy as if you had a few hundred extra feet of pipe to push water through
You’ve never plumbed a pool have you?
You are exiting your pump with a 90 deg fitting ....most sites say NEVER to do this ??
The other option in cases such as this, is to come up high and then back down. That would add 2 additional 90'2 which is even worse.
Why is there air in the pump basket?
The filter was dirty and needed cleaned. The low flow prevents the air from purging out and escaping.
Well that is not true. When you vacuum up stuff stuff for example why would you want algae to be filtered and then have the clean water drained out? Good way to to spend more time cleaning cartridges than you need to. If you want anyway to flush a cartridge filter attach a valve at the drain port. From my experience there is no way effective way to flush a cartridge filter
Anyone ever come across an online simulator to help understand how the valves and pad plumbing all work?
This setup is utterly terrible, and it's concerning you're passing this off as a "proper" setup. Your inlet and outlet pipe length for your pump is too short. You used way more 90s than you needed to. Hell, you only needed 1 to go from your pump to your filter had you moved your pump back and filter forward. You did not use high-temp unions, and it looks like you siliconed those male adapters in, which isn't even allowed and do not last due to the silicone delaminating over time. Those pentair diverter valves are inferior to jandy valves due to them having worse tolerances and being made out of pvc and not cpvc which is what you want to be using if the pool is heated; especially gas heaters. The excessive use of unions and 90s are just going to be leaking nightmares for the customer in the future since they're just going to be more points of failure and just screams that you're not confident in your glue joints which is why you need to prepare for making it easier for you in the future to replace that crap. And if we really want to get into the weeds of making the system as efficient as possible and money isn't a factor, then let's not forget about the 1 1/2 plumbing and not a single sweep in that entire setup. And I really would like to know the specs on that pump and filter and maybe that can start cluing us in on why that pump is starving for water while you're filming and bragging about how good the plumbing is.....
Sorry about some of the words I was speaking through my phone
Looks way to complicated for me. Too many places to leak and need service.
(This comment is not directed at this video's author)
I had that exact salt cell system on my pool. For two and a half years I thought I was in pool heaven, then the darn thing stopped working...after ONLY 2 1/2 years!! Our installer said "they usually last about 5 years" but offered us no remedy to fix or replace (under a $1000 total replacement). This winter, that little length of plexiglass tubing (shown at 2:30 and 2:38) cracked and fell apart (and no, there was no water frozen in there).
Maybe we just got a lemon, but I would not advise anyone to purchase that type of "bypass" salt system. Someone please reply if you've had that type of salt system (or any) that has lasted over 5 years. Thanks.
Sounds like you didn't clean the salt cell. If the salt cell doesn't get cleaned regularly It gets build up on the blades making it harder for the salt cell to produce chlorine causing it to draw more amps and shorten it's life span.
If ya get an Intellachlor, that salt cell will last up to 10000 hours as long as you clean it.
I'm not a big fan of Lectranators. Haywards are good except for the current limitor chip. I also like Astral salt systems. As for longevity, I have many Haywards that are 10 years old and going strong without EVER cleaning the cell! My secret is adding some stabilizer to the water (30 - 50 PPM), keep the pH balanced and run the machine as low as possible to maintain 1 - 2 ppm of chlorine.. Many of my machines run between 10 - 15% output. Running them at 30 - 60% will shorten the lifespan dramatically and cause more scaling on the cell. Think of a salt cell as a light bulb on a dimmer switch. A 1000 hour bulb will last 10x longer dimmed down.
Just a heads up: when you replace the cell Autopilot says you need to replace the cord also. Otherwise they will not honor the warranty.
Nice looking layout. I'm about to redo some of my lines on my 37 year old inground pool. I'd like to replace my valves with the type that your are using. Where are they available. Thanks again for the video, hopefully my layout will look similar to yours.
SCP will carry the Never lube diverters and the ball valves.
LeisurePoolsOhio Thanks for the info
+Ucrazy60 you have to be a pool company to buy from scp
Oh my God the words really came out wrong, I was trying to say the installers ran a pipe Underground which is connected to a main drain in the middle
That’s a disaster, so many 90’s..... the amount of hydraulic issues. That pump should be glassed over with water. My good sir your plumbing causes major flow problems.
Hi not to rain on your parade but your killing the filter with that pump that's why it's not running at full head your literally forcing the dirt into the filter those ball valves are old school step it up Astral valve also I would pipe in drain t with a slip by thread bushings so when you winterized the pool you can drain your lines at the slab....I see your a hayward man but I wouldn't recommend a hayward heater go with raypak or pentair/sta-rite. ...love the auto pilot best chlorine generator beats out jandy hayward an pentair
Don"t like gas heaters? Every pool I have had had a 400K btu heater. they work great. Nice plumbing on this pool tho.
no check valve --- grounding straps--- anode ? This is why I will be doing my own..... lots of 90s nice huge pump though :/
Check valves only are useful when the land doesn't allow for proper variance in grade height between the pool and filter pad...
Another way of saying this is that if a pool's plumbing set up includes check valves, then the builder was an idiot.
Needs more unions.
so why not a GAS heater?
You are too close to the pool pump, its loud, can hardly hear or pay attention to you.