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Corrosive ammo Clean up. Water or solvents?
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- Опубліковано 26 лип 2024
- (Scenario) : You have just shot corrosive ammo through your prized firearm. Should you drown it in Windex, then take it in the shower with you? Or assault it with a myriad of harsh solvents and risk permanent neurological damage. This is not a "Age old Battle" but rather a contagious behavior brought on by the Advent of "THE INTERNET"
I've tried it all. ballistol & water mix, windex, soapy water and ended up with hoppes9. I don't have to worry about getting it out of the gun, drying it or whatever. hoppes9, and I called them to confirm are made for corrosive primer. Since then, nothing ever rusts.
Water absolutely works but you still have to clean it afterwards and oil it up or it will rust. And you need to dry all the water and hit it with rem oil and clean it.
I use my brushes after applying cleaning solvent then I use the air compressor and blow all that shit down the bore. Repeat whipe it down then I clean the barrel and chamber well. Blow it out one last time and it's spotless not even a lil dust
Nicely done again chet. I was wondering about military surplus for a while and if that's the best thing for my gun cause I heard a lot of stuff about corrosive ammo. Glad this video cleared it up.
Water works just fine as long as you flush the gun well. Yeah salt water will corrode but we are not talking about a shit load of salt in solution like sea water which as about 3.5% in solution. More water = less salt = more water = no salt. Dry and oil. Don't need to be complicated.
Finally the voice of reason. Very good.
You Sir wisely described the internet 😅
Not using hot water to flush salts well is WHEN my guns have started to rust. Boiling water and soap is the cheapest way to flush them out, after that clean them with regular chemical cleaners and oil. I been cleaning my sks, mosin and svt for years like this every single week with no issues. My guns all get wet because I shoot in the woods and I have no issue because I let them dry up and clean properly.
I agree with you on all of this. I have also broke my weapon down and put it in the bathtub with hot water and dawn dishwash. It will clean all the old oil and lubricates on the weapon so when your finished drubbing you can put a clean fresh layer oil and grease on it. Helps with the dust and small pieces of fine dirt build up.
Why do people want to do things the hard way like this guy? Here are some thoughts:
1. Water? Of course you don't use water--IF IT IS COLD! boiling hot water works fine--has been used for ages by black powder shooters.
2. Soap? Mixing a bit of dish washing liquid is good as it has de-grease agents in it.
3. Ammonia? Well some claim it dissolves corrosive--some say it does not and can harm chrome or metal. Putting an ounce in with the hot water seems to clean better than without so I use it. So here is my procedure:
A. Take a quart container, fill it with hot water, soap, ammonia. Place a funnel into the chamber. Pour the mix down the barrel. Rinse with clean hot water. Dry with hair dryer.
Shoot Break Free lube down the barrel. Pull a bore snake through the tube. DONE--and it only takes about 5 minutes. Spray more lube down barrel for storage. I have been doing it this way for decades and the bores are still perfect.
*** Of course I am not saying this guys way is wrong--obviously if you use 3 types of lube and spend an hour (or even half) running patch after patch with a cleaning rod ( my Gawd--do people still use these obsolete things? I haven't used a rod in 10 years!) you can get it clean but why do all that work? An hour of cleanup work after 15 minutes of shooting? No thanks!!
Hot water is a great polar solvent, but I don't have to use that shit. I could also piss down my barrel, but no thanks.
imperialfragments
lol @ 6:05 and 9:45.
I laugh because I used to do all that stuff myself. For a while I bought into the myth that if I don't start cleaning my rifle right away, there would only a wood stock the next time I opened my rifle bag lmao
After watching this and the video where you called up Hoppes and Ballistol, I am now better informed. Anything that makes me less OCD is a thumbs up in my book :)
Cheers!
James
You need a polar solvent to remove potassium chloride (the salt in question here). Water works because it's a polar solvent, but guess what? If you use water and don't dry out your gun and some of that shit gets stuck in a groove, nook or cranny, you're going to get some rust. So....either follow this guy's advice or use some other polar solvent. Hoppe's works because it has alcohol and ammonia which are both polar solvents. Ed's Red works because it has polar solvents. You don't HAVE to use water.
Used hopes all my life, will continue. ran across your channel watching one with oven cleaner, I can't even fathom oven cleaner to get cosmolin off. I'll stick to hopes and elbow grease.
not only have i dealt with real black powder in firearms (the most corrosive ammo you can get) ive dealt with combloc surplus too. heres my solution for both
boil water, add dish soap. field strip rifle. pour super hot soapy water down the barrel, gas assy etc. do so over a bucket. take the guts of the rifle toss them in the bucket. scrub stripped rifle with a rag and use a cleaning patch on the barrel till it comes clean. wear gloves if handling barrel as it will be super hot.
repeat for gun parts.
set them on a dish towel or rag to dry. the heat from the boiling water will cause them to dry rapidly and prevent rust.
oil or grease the gun according to your preferences.
reassemble the rifle. for BP guns use only natural lubricants. aks seem to like bearing grease.
windex doesnt do anything better than hot soapy water.
solvents wont prevent corrosion from salt primers. no matter what the label says. or what some old gun fudd told you about his cleaning tips while fighting in vietnam.
what brand and model dish soap do you recommend? Im assuming the one thats "tough on grease"?
Totally 👍 Always pouring water down your barrel of your gun was a dumb idea.
Excellent video very well done and valuable
I only shot 10 surplus rounds (the first rounds I ever put through it just to verify it works safely) and the rifle bore was filthier than my .50 cal black powder muzzle-loader after shooting it all day!
I used bore solvent, a bore brush, and 1/2 of my stock of patches and they were still coming out filthy!
The only thing that got it was boiling hot water and dish soap in a small bucket, then barrel down, I ran a patch up and down for about 15 minutes pumping the hot water up and down the bore.
My 30-06 with modern ammo comes clean in 5 minutes!
Also, that cleaning rod that came with it is way too short.
The Russian cleaning attachments must be long as hell.
I also think that Windex is mostly water, and it's the water that dissolves salt.
Yeah, use enough water and the salts will not be "Neutralized", but diluted, and washed out.
It's not like there is a tablespoon of salt left in there after shooting.
I don't know your name so i hope you won't mind if i just say hello Mr. fragments. :) I like your content...good helpful info. I just wanted to respond to what you said in this vid about "water not neutralizing corrosive salts". I completely agree and also agree that solvents such as Hoppes #9, or Ballistol are a couple of the better methods. But i just wanted to say that the vids i've watched that recommend water, DON'T say it will "neutralize" the salts, but simply that it flushes them away. To me that makes sense, but i still prefer to use solvents instead of water. Just thought it important to clarify that. Take care and keep up the great work.
Water works great as long as that isn't your only method when cleaning it. I rinse mine with a mix of water and ballistol, blow the water out with an air compressor give it a good cleaning with hoppes and call it a day. For the barrel I rinse with the water/ballistol mix, clean out all the copper fouling than rinse with water again since the salts will get trapped under the fouling, blow the water out and clean once more and call it a day.
Thanks, for being REAL.
😁 few are these days. Thanks for watching
I agree. No matter what method or means you use to flush the salts out, you still have to thoroughly clean the weapon and relube it.
I bought a M44 Carbine from my neighbor which had a rusted barrel. I used Windex first and then Hoppes 9 , The barrel has never rusted ever since.
With black powder the entire powder charge is corrosive, this loads up the bore 1000 times worse with corrosive elements than does corrosively primed ammo. For that you can use the old soap and water method or just do a very through job with a cleaner that is specific to black powder. And yes hoppes will eat at nickel or other plating.
I used a bore snake soaked in hops solvent because that's all I have for 8mm. Will this suffice for now? I only shot 10 shots of corrosive through it.
I love how you say "Hoppys." It's such a cute pronunciation mixed in with all the "shits" and "dumbasses."
Thanks for the info brother. Just got my first AK.
Yup I got the Windex out first time, then I went wtf, moisture, air, and corrosion are partners. I pretty much have same procedure as video. I think oiling for storage is most important. If you didn't get all corrosive residue out, it can't rust without air.
Julio Gonzo I use CLP Collector oil for long term storage. Wet patch down the bore and a light coat with a cloth on exterior metal. Works great on my wall hangers and anything I dont plan on shooting for a long while.
I agree with you! Warren
If water neutralized salt the oceans would be salt free lol
Hehe, yeah "neutralize" is the wrong word. The water simply dissolves and flushes the salts away.
i use hoppes on everything its awesome and smells good, however i did buy a couple of cans of milsurp GI bore solvent that was meant for corrosive ammo i use for corrosive ammo, i got it on ebay i think i paid $5 for 8oz of bore solvent (i think its Vietnam era) which is cheap as hell so i bought 5 cans of it, works grrrrrreat
the old saying, if it aint broke--dont fix it.
After shooting corrosive I use birchwood casey #77 muzzle magic muzzle loader cleaner first to "get the salts out" then I use the B-Casey bore scrubber then a patch of barricade, then wipe down exterior w the barricade...never have a problem..
Thanks for the info, makes total sense to me. Hoppe’s has been around long before non-corrosive primers were invented. Get the crap out of the bore, that’s the secret.
GRINANDBEARIT The Hoppe's 9 regular is not for corrosive. They changed the original 9's ingredients in the 1970's or so to make it less toxic,since most were using non-corrosive ammo by then. They make a Hoppe's 9 plus for black powder/corrosive ammo. Hoppe's 9 plus Black powder solvent and patch lubricant,"contains ammonia,denatured ethanol and Kerosene".
I use hot water to flush the junk out of my vz after I break it down with hops it dosnt Neutralize salts it just rinses out the crud really good out of receiver and bore and washes the solvent out, I also use a compressor to blow out the water and dry the nooks and crannys.
Dude I have always thought this but have never heard any saying this. One question though is it the same for black powder? Also careful with Hoppes on nickel plated guns. I learned the hard way.
While it is mostly water and evaporates quickly I suppose you could flush with it but its not a good cleaning agents as it quickly vanishes. Just use Ballistol
Yes... Once I started used Ballistol... I stopped using all other gun oils and solvents.
What is with the 41 Swiss? Did you get yourself one? I usually use just a little dawn dish soap as a surfactant with water, and then I clean it like normal.
this maybe bs but I think that in the Mosin cleaning kit the SOLVENT and oil tin are used for cleaning the corrosive ammo in the field because corrosive ammo is all they had and they certainly did not have Windex. So if the rifles (the ones used in WWII) survived from then to now with only solvent and hard work and no Windex ours will as well.
good video. subscribed.
Right on with your video. The Russians poured water and piss down their barrels, but they also waited in line for three hours for a sack of potatoes.
What about birchwood casey no 77 black powder water based solvent
I get what you're saying about people using water, but I first read about it in my Springfield m1903 field manual -it's how they were instructed to clean their rifles, except they were dunking them in water!
+tcorp12 yea back in the day it was barrel dunk. They would put the bore in the water and run a rod with a
Fat patch just plunging it like a toilet. That's the best way to do a shit load of guns at a time, after training soldiers on the range.
So what do you use on the outside of the gun and the receiver? Just hoppes bore solvent on a cloth? Or am I better to rinse everything in water then air gun it out and oil?
Just wipe the exterior down with a light coat of oil. Don't use solvent on the exterior
I just threw away all my Windex, and apologized to my 91/30. Thanks for the info.
thanks for info all you hear is water down the barrel and i never felt comfortable doing that still pretty new to the gun scene
How many patches does it take to clean your mosin? I just used up all my patches from my hops cleaning kit (50 patches I guess) and they still were covered in grey. I only shot 40 rounds too. I did use the nylon brush that comes with the kit to scrub the bore first.
chances are you are you have cleaned out the carbon from your 40 rounds and are now working on the fouling from the last 60 years still left in the bore. you should not need 50 patches once you wet it down good you need to scrub the hell out of the bore and flush it out make sure your patches are sopping wet
That might be it. Also found out I should have been wetting my patches a whole lot more.
No I just happened across that nice box with 13 rounds still in it for 10 bucks. I need to pick up a vetterli rifle. I collect all kinds of firearms related stuff. Even ammo for rifles I don't yet own :)
Would Remington Oil with Mositure Guard and Rust Preventative would be good to use for cleaning crossive ammo?
I haven't tried that product yet... I use Rem oil on a rag to wipe down the entire external area or my fire arms before putting them away.
If you are safe stacking a bunch of arms you don't shoot that often after they are clean and lightly oiled on the exterior you can use a cotton glove or like I do a cotton sock to handle them as you are stacking them away. Last thing you want to do is use a bare hand on any arm you might not use for a long time. The salts from perspiration that are always present on your hand will after some time eat away Blueing or cause blemish.
The folks in Afghanistan and Africa use corrosive ammo all day in their guns and go a long time before ever getting cleaned and they perform flawlessly. Here in America where we are obsessed with taking care of our firearms, I don't think it matters what method you use to clean the corrosive salts out of your gun as long as it works. Your gun is still going to be better off than alot of other guns out there that don't get cleaned but still function.
The climate in the middle-east is typically drier than North America, so that may be a contributing factor, as well.
I take it you do mean Purely corrosive primers and not black powder guns, I find if I try just
I have a question. My concern is cleaning out my gas block in my ak47 varient. Would blast off take care of this area. Thank for the vid.
Hey, I have tried cleaning my sks just using the normal gun cleaning method with rem action cleaner and than the rem oil to store it , just recently found out that this is not the proper way to clean corrosive ammo, there's some surface rust starting on it with a few times after cleaning it normally, and I was just wondering cause you run CLP to clean it intially and after you put the hoppes in, would you use CLP to take the hoppes out and clean it after or just dry patches to take out ? And do you normally just find the copper fowling in the barrel or would you have to put the hoppes in other places? Thanks for your time. Great Information definitely did not want any water touching it.......
after cleaning the bore with solvent and your patches come out clean put a patch with oil down the bore and leave a light coat of oil when you store your weapon. be sure you clean the gas pistons and tube as well after everything wipes clean and there is no sooty residue lightly coat the exterior of the gun with oil as well. you only have to worry about corrosive elements if you have shot a mess of old military surplus stuff. any commercialy available stuff now days is non corrosive
Yesterday shot like 600 corrosive Russian cartridges through it, and that is what I did but all I was wondering is that getting rid of the salts or is the way you say you do yours more efficient because I don't want to keep getting surface rust on the internals when I thoroughly clean it to begin.
+toros5 I only clean for copper fouling after about 3 days of target shooting. Any surface rust you are finding on your gun is from not wiping it down after handling. As long as the patch comes out clean on the last push through your bore your good. Then put an oily patch down it an store.
I've only ever used hot water on my Mosin to flush the salts, but I want to get away from that because I'm worried about the water seeping into the collar where they screwed the barrel onto the receiver and rusting that. I doubt that's seriously a problem, but it does worry me a bit. As for the bore, it's still as sharp as the day I bought it. My regimen is boiling hot water, dry patch, Hoppe's, dry patch, stick it by my bed. I don't even leave a protective sheen of oil in there. Am I crazy? Maybe. Is there rust? No.
As long as you are removing all of the black stuff that is where the "salts" and oxides are. There is nothing wrong with the boiling water method as long as you dry it well, or use compressed air. I would still go with a typical cleaning after you use the boiling water and dry. I prefer to use a coat of CLP collector or some old fashion Hoppes Grease for storage after everything is cleaned. I typically just run a patch of any type of gun oil down the bore if I plan to shoot it again within the next few days. you have to remember not to over think it. After all the Afganis are still fighting with old Enfields and all they use is motor oil and a shoelace with some knots tied in it :). Its the "Bore Snake" of the middle east
The Russians used these in snow for decades and never has a problem so why are you worrying about rust? You should keep a coating of oil in the bore after cleaning.
I found copper klenz chemical is alot more aggressive than hoppes.... But it will ruin stock if not super careful
I'm new to the gun world. So would salts go into a gun case? I know I sound crazy but if I only had one case for gun would I but worried about the salts being in its case to later find rust on a gun. Sorry but I want a ak or Sks and the cheap and indoor range friendly ammo is yugo corrosive. And yes the indoor ranges are do not allow bi-metal jackets.
no corrosive elements would be in your gun case. the corrosive compounds are from firing. that being said the bore,action,and any gas pistons or gas tubing will be affected. the sweat on your hands is as corrosive as the priming compounds. any rust on the exterior of your rifle will be from handling not corrosive ammo
+imperialfragments thanks man.
Miguel Hernandez it's funny you say that I've wondered the same thing with oil soaking into padding. I figured it's not worth worrying about, I clean before storage anyway. It's kind of like camera lens fungus, people are scared that if a lens has fungus it will infect other lenses.
I agree with you totally. I heard that bs about water and I was lmao.
What if I live in FL? Its like the amazon rainforest, will that make my mosin rust on the way home from the range
just thoroughly clean it when you get home
Can i use hoppes number 9 to clean the bolt as well?? Are the bore and bolt what I need to focus on after shooting corrosive? I have a M24/47 Mauser by the way.. Great video, thank you.
yes, but remember hoppes is a solvent, It cleans but does not protect. let it sit for a few minutes then wipe off. you still have to give everything a light coat of oil before storing.
Thanks
imperialfragments dude really good video very informative good for speaking the truth there are a lot tacticulo dumdaholes on the web repeating the same crap other morons do totally su b to your channel
+Svern Warunos many of the very popular firearms channels have changed names and deleted all prior content showing them in thier true state of entry level and learning the ins and outs of the firearms world. Most over the highly commercialized and successful you tubers of the firearms genre bought Thier gun in 2008. To be honest the best firearms advice will come from your Granddad. Markets always need a spokesman and Newer markets need the Loudest Spokesperson. Most everything out there is Reinventing the wheel and most Tubers are the Billy Maze of the firearms industry. Keep that in mind. Thank you for watching
Do you have to clean the entire mosin? I use windex, 3 patches, than put some tetra solvent down the bore. Let it sit for 30 minutes, than remove with windex. Remove, the residue with dry patches. Before i rub the barrel
down with grease.
- Or can you just clean the barrel, and bolt
- and just oil the rest of the gun.
I just clean the bore, the bolt, and the action. Then a normal wipe down of the whole exterior with an oily cloth before back in the safe. Remember the corrosive compounds are no more corrosive than sweaty palms. Humidity where you live plays a big factor as well.
+imperialfragments Oh okay, thanks for the advice! :D. i felt as if i was being a bit too pedantic. I just wanted my m44 to last and last
what about using rubbing alcohol to clean black powder guns?
Cool vid
I think using boiling water to flush the gun and parts is a good start but not all you need to do by far lol. Still needs to be cleaned.
Your opinion on a muzzle loader cleaning? I have been using bore bright. it seems to work good.
Higher-Ground Farm there are a lot of great products out these days for cleaning blackpowder. lots of old timers use soap and water. then dry and oil it.
I am trying to get away from soap and water. I am worried about rust. and how messy soap and water is to use.
Higher-Ground Farm go check out the black powder section at cabelas or sportsman lots of good stuff there. afraid I don't have much advice in the area since it's been 20 years since I've shot black powder. I have an old .44 confederate revolver
water is the universal solvent
I wonder how frog lube solvent would do?
Hi, Chad. I’m newbie in guns, and I bought a SKS just week ago. After first shooting with corrosive ammo I cleaned my SKS for a two hours and I think it still dirty (next day I found little corrosive spots in a gas tube). Maybe you can make a video “How should clean a SKS when you shoot corrosive ammo.”?
I think it will help a lot of people. Thanks :)
If you found some minor pitting in the gas tube it was likely there before you got it. Corrosive ammo won't pit it out imidiatly. Pitting will occur over some time if left uncleaned. Just clean it thoroughly after every session and oil it well before you store it.
@@imperialfragments ok thanks a lot 👍
i have found that if i use a black powder blow tube after every mag you know blow the smoke out that it makes it much easier to clean the crap dose not get a chance to set in the gun
i soak the metal in diesel fuel. scrub with a brush and patch the barrel, i'll use a scrapper brush on the barrel with one end submerged in the diesel, i think that is flushing the barrel. then i soak in transmission fluid. Works great.. they look brand new. just my method, but im lazy.
John Candy that works. diesel would be great for cleaning and flushing. I know ATF has a lot of rust inhibitors in it. might give that a try on one of my old turds and see how she turns out 😆
All Hoppes..Froglube..Fireclean stay away from water
.......
Brake clean
Nicely done! You making fun of all the morons taking Windex to the range made me laugh my ass off, All it takes is a timely cleaning with cheap-o Hoppes #9, nothing more. Next time I see someone at the range with Windex I am going to tell them to go do something useful and clean the windows on my car...
hot water, windex, and soap works on corrosive. Solvent DO NOT! You can laugh at the windex folks all you want but clean corrosive your way and they will do the laughing when your bore rusts shut.
chad haire Fine I'll do it my way, you do it your way... in the mean time, go clean my car at the range while you're at it.
Ian Willis Sure... I'll use the herpes no 9 solvent you like so much. But for those watching here who use corrosive--- using solvent DOES NOT kill corrosive--you might as well use orange juice. Be warned...so be smart and use hot soped water with ammonia and don't listen to these guys..
chad haire The Hoppe's 9 regular is not for corrosive. They changed the original 9's ingredients in the 1970's or so to make it less toxic,since most were using non-corrosive ammo by then. They make a Hoppe's 9 plus for black powder/corrosive ammo. Hoppe's 9 plus Black powder solvent and patch lubricant,"contains ammonia,denatured ethanol and Kerosene".
Jerry Bradley Good point. Which proves that the guys using hot water with ammonia are not so dumb after all I guess!
I put me Mosin and 54r vepr in bath full of hot water and run a patch down them and set by a heater or out side let dry then spray some oil on them and never had a bit of rust. water was around before the Internet Russian army would tell them to piss in the AK if they had to. if I had to clean my rifle every time like you do I would never shoot them.
also i have some mfs ammo is that corrsive. just got to fire my mosin last week.
I agree with the hoppes. I did a video on cleaning corrosive ammo and I brought up the same point. The stupid bullshit about ammonia is just stupid.
Good stuff. You do not need water or any of that. Any gun cleaner and oil the day of shooting is all you need to do.
BULLSHIT! That oil and solvent cleaner will NOT get rid of the corrosive unless you plan on running 100 patches through--stupid way. One cup of hot soapy water--takes 2 minutes--the smart way.
chad haire So, water will get rid of carbon and copper fouling? I don't think so. Why do you even give a rat's ass anyway? This is one of if not the only UA-cam video that tells you not to poor hot water or piss down your barrel and/or use Windex.
Dick Tracy Do you know how to read? Obviously NOT. I never said that water would get rid of copper fouling--I said HOT water and soap will disable the Corrosive material and flush it from the barrel far more effective than solvent. HOT HOT HOT not cold. It has worked for centuries. The guy who made this silly video is one of the people who has a whole shelf of snake oil and runs patch after patch through the barrel with a cleaning rod until nothing is left--a dumb method of cleaning corrosive out unless your time is worth nothing and you have an hour+ to kill. I don't know if Ammonia kills corrosive bit I mix it in the HOT soapy water anyway because it helps break up the corrosive crud. The entire hot water & soap procedure with rinse and drying with a hair dryer, then spraying lube down the barrel, and swiping with a bore snake takes about 8 minutes--10 at most. You will NEVER do it that quick or anything close with solvent and a cleaning rod. I have used the HOT water & soap for ages and all of my barrels are like new which speaks for itself. Anyone who spends 2 hours cleaning a rifle after 20 minutes of shooting isn't very bright in the upstairs...
UPDATE: The fact that this guy used a cleaning rod at all shows how behind the times he is--I haven't used one in 10 years. You want to remove copper fouling toss that solvent HERPES #9 shit away. Simply use the bore foam--spray it in the barrel, and half hour later wash it out. Copper gone. Get with the 21st century people! The days of solvent & cleaning rods are like steel frames, wood grips, and leather holsters--they work but are OBSOLETE!
chad haire really, what is it about guns that brings out the total douche in people? Assuming we all own Mosins, you'd think we'd have something in common and at least be civil towards each other. Update, learn not to be a self righteous ass
Nightverslonn I did my update--you read it. The only self righteous ass'es are the people who were putting words in my mouth I didn't say and I set the record straight on that. I also don't like these web guru's posting incorrect gun information on the web (James Yeager, Yankee Marshal, Iraqveteran888, ARegularguy90 the worst examples) --so I see nothing wrong about correcting that either. Yes gun postings bring out the douche--- in ego maniacs who don't want to hear the truth. Tell someone their pet gun (especially the 1911) isn't that good can get you death threats! Your statement that any gun cleaner and oil will work on corrosive is bad advice by the way for reasons that I mentioned, but my main comments were directed to Dick Tracy who obviously didn't read anything I had said yet told me I was wrong on statements I never said! If you don't like my gun comments then feel free to see my car videos I posted--you seem to watch more of those type videos anyway and there are less idiots watching car videos for some reason.....gotta go...
hoppes, spell check sorry
Jhy
I have a question. My concern is cleaning out my gas block in my ak47 varient. Would blast off take care of this area. Thank for the vid.