Great video, I learned a lot. I will try your way to make a color lithophane. You don't need a coach to learn how to UA-cam you are doing fine. keep up the sharing of this very useful info. 👍🏼
I'm not sure if I understand the question correctly, but this method is a combination of both methods for better quality and less waste compared to printing a color lithophane standing in the Z axis. It's fairly similar to printing the whole lithophane flat on the bed but since you have less retractions and more walls, you can put more material down quicker. In that sense I'd assume it's quicker but I didn't verify that, I was mostly aiming for the best quality while reducing waste.
Exactly, so my idea is printing the color layers flat on the bed for 95% (ish) reduced material changes, and printing the white part which is the relief part or height map, standing (on the Z axis) and finally gluing both parts together for a nice combination of both worlds :)
Brother for info videos like yours, you don't need to pay for a UA-cam coach. Learning Basic to standard editing is available on you tube itself. I'll try my color litho this way and share the results.
Thank you so much for watching! You are completely right, UA-cam already has everything I could ask for in terms of tips and info. But when it comes to active learning, getting real time answers as you get questions while practicing is on another level.
Wouldn't it be easier if 1) the color part to import all the stl files except the top white, and then 2) separately bring in the top stl file and rotate it? That would seem to eliminate much of the edit steps you went through and as long as you set the minimum thickness high enough you will have your needed minimum wall thickness for the top litho part.
Yes that would also work, there needs to be some investigation on the minimum thickness however, because setting it at 0.3mm for a default line width of 0.22mm still left some holes in the walls, which is why I had to add a sheet of white material in the slicer to thicken the white part. My issue then is that I like to have thin lithophanes for higher quality images, so I can't go tooo thin either. This subject needs more people like you asking the right questions and testing limits! :)
@@mikekiske I should've shown the final results at the very least, people clicked for the thumbnail o.o The only picture I have is the one set as thumbnail. I'll try to add a link to the image in the video description box.
Great video, I learned a lot. I will try your way to make a color lithophane. You don't need a coach to learn how to UA-cam you are doing fine. keep up the sharing of this very useful info. 👍🏼
Thanks alot!! I Haven't given up! :) I'm just going through a breakup right now.
legend 🙌
Thanks alot!
I haven't had a chance to compare myself, but how much time and wastage does this add, compared to printing the new lithopane flat as per normal?
I'm not sure if I understand the question correctly, but this method is a combination of both methods for better quality and less waste compared to printing a color lithophane standing in the Z axis. It's fairly similar to printing the whole lithophane flat on the bed but since you have less retractions and more walls, you can put more material down quicker. In that sense I'd assume it's quicker but I didn't verify that, I was mostly aiming for the best quality while reducing waste.
But wouldn't printing it standing up mean that there's more color changes, therefore more waste?
@@marcm.1773 re-watch the video carefully
Exactly, so my idea is printing the color layers flat on the bed for 95% (ish) reduced material changes, and printing the white part which is the relief part or height map, standing (on the Z axis) and finally gluing both parts together for a nice combination of both worlds :)
I'm sorry I definitely missed something then haha my understanding was that the color part was the standing part in the video. My bad!
Brother for info videos like yours, you don't need to pay for a UA-cam coach.
Learning Basic to standard editing is available on you tube itself.
I'll try my color litho this way and share the results.
Thank you so much for watching!
You are completely right, UA-cam already has everything I could ask for in terms of tips and info. But when it comes to active learning, getting real time answers as you get questions while practicing is on another level.
Wouldn't it be easier if 1) the color part to import all the stl files except the top white, and then 2) separately bring in the top stl file and rotate it? That would seem to eliminate much of the edit steps you went through and as long as you set the minimum thickness high enough you will have your needed minimum wall thickness for the top litho part.
Yes that would also work, there needs to be some investigation on the minimum thickness however, because setting it at 0.3mm for a default line width of 0.22mm still left some holes in the walls, which is why I had to add a sheet of white material in the slicer to thicken the white part. My issue then is that I like to have thin lithophanes for higher quality images, so I can't go tooo thin either. This subject needs more people like you asking the right questions and testing limits! :)
@@GP3D_Designs Hi. Do you have any photos of the litophane with led lights on in the dark. Thanks for the video.
@@mikekiske I should've shown the final results at the very least, people clicked for the thumbnail o.o
The only picture I have is the one set as thumbnail. I'll try to add a link to the image in the video description box.
@@GP3D_Designs It would be great. Thanks.
@@mikekiske I added an instagram post link to show the thumbnail picture I took of my lithophane!