@@janinetapp6482 Because the oil itself as a paint base bonds to almost anything. Glass, metal etc. and if you emulsify linseed oil into milk paint it will help it adhere to surfaces and create a stronger paint film. Adding linseed oil to milk paint is an old practice.
@@W4ldgeist Oh wow really I would never have thought that as I have always looked at oils etc as a resist like putting it on in areas to get more chipping/resistance, How much linseed oil would you add to your milk paint, how does it mix in with the milk paint being water based? I am very interested 👍🏼
Nice videos! Long-time ago, I saw a designer using casein in paste form covering a wood model. When the paste dried, she used sandpaper to make the surface super smooth. Do you know how to make that paste?
WOW, what a great idea. I have to pin you so others see this. I do know how to make that paste. I would use my milk paint formula and reduce the water by 25% to start. Give it 24 hours to jell in the fridge (lightly covered). Now this is a ball park, its like baking, after awhile you begin to just know. What you should have is a very creamy paste (keep it cold while using it too), and will dry to a flat finish. Sanding is just fine too. You can even carve it like marble after a few days. I can put a video doing this on the list folks want it.
Mezzo-fresco. And here is a link to attend a Master class on making. www.atelier-nadai.com/MASTER-CLASS/en/The-Art-of-Italian-Grisaille-week-2-Mezzo-fresco
@@geofhadfield3591 I did a quick Ecosia search to answer your first question. This is an older video and have long ago deleted all talking points. I did post a link for you that I think can lead you in the right direction, as this Master class shows you how to make 'milk chalk' for a fresco base, for only 960 Euro. I abandoned many topics like this, as there is almost no interest in sustainable alternatives to products made from oil. The goal of this video was to show you how to make milk paint, and that I succeeded. Enjoy!
Thankyou for your casein work shop it was a medium I hadn't really understood before .It's interesting that period in art history of transition from fresco, tempera to oil painting
Thank you for walking us through the process so carefully. I'd just like to add a point about pigments. I know from my experience soap-making that most vegetable pigments and dyes don't work with alkaline products - they all turn brown and sludgy-looking.
@@GEOsustainable Oh. I have been making milk paint using casein powder that I've been purchasing and have had a lot of success painting it on several interior finishes - wood siding, drywall, lime plaster. I went to order more and they were out. That's when I turned to UA-cam to see about making some. Before I found your channel I found a video on boiling yogurt and water and then pouring that through cheese cloth, letting it hang, then dry and crumbling the bits into a powder. I'm in the middle of my first batch. I found your video very helpful and interesting. Is this the book you mentioned: Casein; Its Preparation and Technical Utilisation by Robert Scherer (English)? Thank you for your reply and help!
I think a waterpoof formula consisting of Casein/slaked lime/sodium sillicate or just casein/sodium sillicate wouldnt be a bad idea. Although sodium sillicate isnt waterproof, concentrated solutions of more sand to sodium hydroxide in the sodium sillicate seem to be more water resistant for hours, acting as IF its hydrophobic. Also it has been used as a kind of wood glue and furnace glue, so it wouldnt be bad attempt at waterproofing clothes imo. Just a thought for a future video.
Waterproofing Casein to the point of being able to machine wash something it the 'holy grail' of bioplastics. I have much success with adding the fresh Casein to 30% Vinegar to give it hours of perfect waterproofness, but then begins to break down. 30% Vinegar is the strongest acid I have, so I think even stronger acids will make it more waterproof. It is something on one else has tried, so it may be the trick. Try it.
@@GEOsustainable Thats an interesting find! I would use hydrochloric acid that i got lying around but i already used it to precipitate some casein out of milk. Still gonna give it a shot. I would like to see a future video where you tackle different acids and glues to see the most effective waterproofing agent. Like you said before, itd be the holy grail of bioplastics! Thanks for the reply and would be interested in more of your bioplastics, organic adhesives, etc.
That doesn't look like 3 cups of curds...unless I misunderstood. Is it 1 cup of curds, 7 grams pickling lime and 16 ml of water or some other sort of funky measurement? You tripled the lime and water... which I don't understand.
I have heard this and bought all of those. In my humble opinion, I prefer to use food grade Calcium Hydroxide instead of Hydrated Lime for improved water resistance. Each one you added here will work just great. Thanks for adding your comment.
OK, for you, I will use the common name for Calcium Hydroxide....egg shells. Calcium Hydroxide is a food grade product, and you eat it every day. It can be toxic if you eat it pure, and hazardous if you breathe the pure powder, and can cause skin burns, and extremely hazardous to your eyes and mucus membrane. Once it is mixed in paint, it is no longer of a toxic level. Great question. But I do wish the American education system taught more than everyone is special (because no one is), and taught kids about what is around them in nature. For example, the words Toxic and Hazardous are never defined in school. Water is both super Toxic and super Hazardous, but it doesn't sell newspapers. I am not insulting you, only public schools. It's why we are 48th in the world, with the bottom of 50, yet we pay teachers the most of any nation. Teachers Unions don't serve the kids.
The calcium hydroxide is used as an alkaline solution and binding agent. It reacts with the protein in the quark and once it has fully reacted it's no longer very alkaline, so no longer dangerous or toxic. It is less alkaline than a bar of soap (which is also toxic if you eat it).
Wonderful as well. I thought it was cool we finally had holy cows ;) Course I may get a few scouls from the sisters if they read this. I am thinking of doing more videos with milk paint. Anything you want to see in particular?
For anyone living in a German speaking area we have a product called "Magerquark" which is exactly the curds of fat free milk. It's mostly casein with some minute amounts of fat left over, but quite good as a starter for milk paint. Also much less smelly :D and you can eat the left over quark :)
Thank you so much for your patience and thoroughness in explaining this process. I learned so much. 🙏
I am so happy you found value in my content. Good luck and have fun with this.
Excellent clear instructions ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
WOW, all I do is stand and start talking. I am so glad I made sense. Thank you for watching.
So glad I found your channel while looking for milk paint recipes. I'm now subscribed and looking forward to exploring further.
I am so glad to hear this. I will be publishing a video tonight on the making of Crackle Finish with Milk Paint. At least, that is the plan.
Thank You So very Much for showing us this !! Best regards from Denmark..All the Best to You 😊
Wonderful, greetings from Maryland. I am thrilled you like. Stay tuned for more on this subject, coming next.
@@GEOsustainable Thank You too 😊
This is great! You must be an instructor
Thank you for sharing :)
I am so glad you like.
Thank you for sharing the bonding agent to add by using the glue I am making my own milk paint and have been searching for this info 🙏🏻
My pleasure. Stay tuned for more on milk paints.
There is a natural bonding agent: Linseed oil.
@@W4ldgeist Linseed oil? I don’t understand how that could work as a bonding agent?
@@janinetapp6482 Because the oil itself as a paint base bonds to almost anything. Glass, metal etc. and if you emulsify linseed oil into milk paint it will help it adhere to surfaces and create a stronger paint film. Adding linseed oil to milk paint is an old practice.
@@W4ldgeist Oh wow really I would never have thought that as I have always looked at oils etc as a resist like putting it on in areas to get more chipping/resistance,
How much linseed oil would you add to your milk paint, how does it mix in with the milk paint being water based?
I am very interested 👍🏼
Nice videos! Long-time ago, I saw a designer using casein in paste form covering a wood model. When the paste dried, she used sandpaper to make the surface super smooth. Do you know how to make that paste?
WOW, what a great idea. I have to pin you so others see this. I do know how to make that paste. I would use my milk paint formula and reduce the water by 25% to start. Give it 24 hours to jell in the fridge (lightly covered). Now this is a ball park, its like baking, after awhile you begin to just know. What you should have is a very creamy paste (keep it cold while using it too), and will dry to a flat finish. Sanding is just fine too. You can even carve it like marble after a few days. I can put a video doing this on the list folks want it.
Ive always believed the Sistine chapel was Buon Fresco on what terms do you credit Michaelangelo in using milk paint.
Mezzo-fresco. And here is a link to attend a Master class on making. www.atelier-nadai.com/MASTER-CLASS/en/The-Art-of-Italian-Grisaille-week-2-Mezzo-fresco
@@GEOsustainable have there been any technological studies you can point me to which found the mezzo Fresco elements in the Frescoes.
@@geofhadfield3591 I did a quick Ecosia search to answer your first question. This is an older video and have long ago deleted all talking points. I did post a link for you that I think can lead you in the right direction, as this Master class shows you how to make 'milk chalk' for a fresco base, for only 960 Euro. I abandoned many topics like this, as there is almost no interest in sustainable alternatives to products made from oil. The goal of this video was to show you how to make milk paint, and that I succeeded. Enjoy!
Thankyou for your casein work shop it was a medium I hadn't really understood before .It's interesting that period in art history of transition from fresco, tempera to oil painting
@@geofhadfield3591 I may do a Tempera (most popularly egg) video, it most certainly is a sustainable art medium.
Thank you for walking us through the process so carefully. I'd just like to add a point about pigments. I know from my experience soap-making that most vegetable pigments and dyes don't work with alkaline products - they all turn brown and sludgy-looking.
Great tip! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you. Great video. Why is overcooking or heating the milk bad?
It will not precipitate until it cools, so overheating is a waste. Glad you like!
@@GEOsustainable Oh. I have been making milk paint using casein powder that I've been purchasing and have had a lot of success painting it on several interior finishes - wood siding, drywall, lime plaster. I went to order more and they were out. That's when I turned to UA-cam to see about making some. Before I found your channel I found a video on boiling yogurt and water and then pouring that through cheese cloth, letting it hang, then dry and crumbling the bits into a powder. I'm in the middle of my first batch. I found your video very helpful and interesting. Is this the book you mentioned: Casein; Its Preparation and Technical Utilisation by Robert Scherer (English)? Thank you for your reply and help!
I think a waterpoof formula consisting of Casein/slaked lime/sodium sillicate or just casein/sodium sillicate wouldnt be a bad idea. Although sodium sillicate isnt waterproof, concentrated solutions of more sand to sodium hydroxide in the sodium sillicate seem to be more water resistant for hours, acting as IF its hydrophobic. Also it has been used as a kind of wood glue and furnace glue, so it wouldnt be bad attempt at waterproofing clothes imo. Just a thought for a future video.
Waterproofing Casein to the point of being able to machine wash something it the 'holy grail' of bioplastics. I have much success with adding the fresh Casein to 30% Vinegar to give it hours of perfect waterproofness, but then begins to break down. 30% Vinegar is the strongest acid I have, so I think even stronger acids will make it more waterproof. It is something on one else has tried, so it may be the trick. Try it.
@@GEOsustainable Thats an interesting find! I would use hydrochloric acid that i got lying around but i already used it to precipitate some casein out of milk. Still gonna give it a shot. I would like to see a future video where you tackle different acids and glues to see the most effective waterproofing agent. Like you said before, itd be the holy grail of bioplastics! Thanks for the reply and would be interested in more of your bioplastics, organic adhesives, etc.
That doesn't look like 3 cups of curds...unless I misunderstood. Is it 1 cup of curds, 7 grams pickling lime and 16 ml of water or some other sort of funky measurement? You tripled the lime and water... which I don't understand.
I have seen folks grab a hand full of each and make paint. It is not an exact science.
@@GEOsustainable yeah, I suppose, a hundred years ago it wouldn't have been exact, thanks for replying!!
How can I make milk paint from caseine powder?
Great question. I made a video using Casein powder. I go over everything here. ua-cam.com/video/opHLW4P-UEE/v-deo.html
BTW...Hydrated Limed is also called Slaked Lime or S-Lime or S-type Lime.
I have heard this and bought all of those. In my humble opinion, I prefer to use food grade Calcium Hydroxide instead of Hydrated Lime for improved water resistance. Each one you added here will work just great. Thanks for adding your comment.
Or pickling lime
how is milk paint not toxic when you have to put the calcium hydroxide which is so toxic. im super confused
OK, for you, I will use the common name for Calcium Hydroxide....egg shells. Calcium Hydroxide is a food grade product, and you eat it every day. It can be toxic if you eat it pure, and hazardous if you breathe the pure powder, and can cause skin burns, and extremely hazardous to your eyes and mucus membrane. Once it is mixed in paint, it is no longer of a toxic level. Great question. But I do wish the American education system taught more than everyone is special (because no one is), and taught kids about what is around them in nature. For example, the words Toxic and Hazardous are never defined in school. Water is both super Toxic and super Hazardous, but it doesn't sell newspapers. I am not insulting you, only public schools. It's why we are 48th in the world, with the bottom of 50, yet we pay teachers the most of any nation. Teachers Unions don't serve the kids.
The calcium hydroxide is used as an alkaline solution and binding agent. It reacts with the protein in the quark and once it has fully reacted it's no longer very alkaline, so no longer dangerous or toxic. It is less alkaline than a bar of soap (which is also toxic if you eat it).
The pictures of the Sistine Chapel are of restored works. The Sistine Chapel looked like garbage before it’s restoration.
Wonderful as well. I thought it was cool we finally had holy cows ;) Course I may get a few scouls from the sisters if they read this. I am thinking of doing more videos with milk paint. Anything you want to see in particular?
I've had good luck skipping the milk and vinegar step and use fat free cottage cheese and rinsing off the cream.
That is a great time saver. Great idea. Thanks for sharing your short cut.
Interesting!
For anyone living in a German speaking area we have a product called "Magerquark" which is exactly the curds of fat free milk. It's mostly casein with some minute amounts of fat left over, but quite good as a starter for milk paint. Also much less smelly :D and you can eat the left over quark :)