Code 20 is "twinning fault" which refers to conflicting thermostat signals, e.g. heating and cooling calls at the same time. In this case, the conflict was being generated within the board itself.
Hey Steve, great diagnostics!! There is a lot of parts changers out there, but actually finding the issue makes you have all your repeat customers. Plus honesty, that’s a big one!!
Whoever installed that furnace doesn’t know what they are doing. Throwing the air handler filter which is 16 by 20 on a 92% 100k furnace with a 5 ton drive! Should have a 6” box on furnace, with a 20 by 25 filter! Nice work Steve!
I wonder if something is holding the twinning signal high or low, causing the fault? Obviously, the microcontroller thinks that the furnace is twinned with another furnace.
Maybe use the chrome colored anti static bag, by splitting it open, and draping it over the new circuit board. Keeping future moisture off the connectors.
Nice repair man. Error code 20 "TW" is a Twinning Fault. The furnace control board was thinking that it was set up to twin with another non-compatible furnace, so it wouldn't fire off. Don't see that one everyday. Thanks for the video and stay safe out there.
Wow, 7 burner tubes ! 140,000 BTU ? There was a dark spot on the lower backside of that main board I believe. What are the negatives with those NEST thermostats? Or limitations?
@@Garth2011 Agreed. Some of the old 90% furnaces were tanks and lasted much longer than modern equipment. 80% single stage will probably be the most reliable longterm option, boilers especially 80% is the most reliable. I like 2 stage units, but repairs will be more money down the road for the average homeowner. I’m not a fan of the overly complicated systems out there
The first thing I would do is jump 120V AC to that inducer motor eith an extension cord. If it runs id check the vacuum switch, the vacuum port, and the condensate trap. Anybody else see those water traces below the base of this unit? Look right below Steve's drop light.
Hate to break it to you, but those blue vinyl gloves won't do anything to prevent ESD damage to boards, and may even increase the chances of it. What you need to be doing is wearing a wrist strap, grounded to the frame of the furnace.
Some agree, he was working on concrete plus touching the sheet metal most of the time so Steve is doing okay on this job. Carpeting would be the environment to be careful but as long as you are touching the cabinet or a pipe etc. prior to handling the board, you are safe. Those wrist straps do work but if you know what you are doing you can prevent ESD without one.
It does sound like a bad board, especially if it's giving you a twinning fault. It's a single furnace, definitely not twinned. And seeing all that rust and corrosion, it looks like water has been leaking all over it. Probably a previously or current clogged evap drain.
The gloves won't do anything to protect against static discharge. They may even make it worse. What you need is an anti-static wrist strap which you connect to ground.
@@gumbootcloggers8330 Heating systems fail (or are noticed) more often during the winter when the RH is low, even in the basement. If you want to protect against ESD then do it right, it's cheap! That's from a guy who repairs these boards. Your choice as to what you do with that info. There are other things you can do as well but the wrist strap is the simplest.
@@flyer617That board is $85 at the supply house. Is it worth the effort to repair them. When in doubt, swap it out. Charge the customer $125 for diagnostic $225 for labor and sell them the board for $300. Get $750 from the job and forget about the guy that “repairs” the boards.
Code 20 is "twinning fault" which refers to conflicting thermostat signals, e.g. heating and cooling calls at the same time. In this case, the conflict was being generated within the board itself.
Jumping TT proved that.
Nice job as always Steve!
Hey Steve, great diagnostics!! There is a lot of parts changers out there, but actually finding the issue makes you have all your repeat customers. Plus honesty, that’s a big one!!
Steve, you would enjoy a magnetic light when working on furnaces etc!
Miss Molly sporting her very warm looking outfit is working again.
Amazing service call. We're not worthy, We're not worthy.
Good job Steve you always figure it out you and Molly take care
Steve you are the best. Keep up the interesting videos.
Whoever installed that furnace doesn’t know what they are doing. Throwing the air handler filter which is 16 by 20 on a 92% 100k furnace with a 5 ton drive! Should have a 6” box on furnace, with a 20 by 25 filter! Nice work Steve!
What make of furnace was this repair?
I wonder if something is holding the twinning signal high or low, causing the fault? Obviously, the microcontroller thinks that the furnace is twinned with another furnace.
Maybe use the chrome colored anti static bag, by splitting it open, and draping it over the new circuit board.
Keeping future moisture off the connectors.
Good call
Steave.
Great video. Great time of year for driving around
Nice repair man. Error code 20 "TW" is a Twinning Fault. The furnace control board was thinking that it was set up to twin with another non-compatible furnace, so it wouldn't fire off. Don't see that one everyday. Thanks for the video and stay safe out there.
Tell us how your truck has been
Howdy Steve and Miss Molly
Excellent repair
Thanks for the reminder to change my own filter! Yeesh!
I wish I had the money to buy you a decent Nitecore headlamp.
Great video. Thank you for sharing
Remember when furnaces were bullet proof?
hot damn! it works!! Thanks for another one Steve!
Wow, 7 burner tubes ! 140,000 BTU ? There was a dark spot on the lower backside of that main board I believe.
What are the negatives with those NEST thermostats? Or limitations?
100,000 Btu furnace
@@SkilledLabor Each burner in a furnace is about 20,000 BTU I thought?
@ Varies with manufacturers. That’s a 92% 100,000 Btu C cabinet (21”) wide with 5 ton drive. You can see the model number.
@@SkilledLabor I'm DIY. So far, I think the best value in HVAC is single stage and 80% over the long haul.
@@Garth2011 Agreed. Some of the old 90% furnaces were tanks and lasted much longer than modern equipment. 80% single stage will probably be the most reliable longterm option, boilers especially 80% is the most reliable. I like 2 stage units, but repairs will be more money down the road for the average homeowner. I’m not a fan of the overly complicated systems out there
Thermostat set on cooling 😂🇨🇦. Old vet in this trade!!
Steven, get the ole snowblower ready.
Been there, done that, shit show for sure. Steve. Great video. Thank you.
Mom's furnace was built 1980 just changed the blower motor after 44 years no circuit board 😊
wow, nice job!
I love the Old, RELIABLE FURNACES AND A/C SYSTEMS
They definitely don’t make them like they used to.
The first thing I would do is jump 120V AC to that inducer motor eith an extension cord. If it runs id check the vacuum switch, the vacuum port, and the condensate trap. Anybody else see those water traces below the base of this unit? Look right below Steve's drop light.
Rubber gloves, acting ground 🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃🎃 Happy Halloween Steve 👻👽👹☠️
What brand of furnace is this?
Rheem
Hate to break it to you, but those blue vinyl gloves won't do anything to prevent ESD damage to boards, and may even increase the chances of it. What you need to be doing is wearing a wrist strap, grounded to the frame of the furnace.
Agree. And/or touch ground before messing with it if you don't have a wrist strap.
Unless you are shuffling around on carpet in your socks you'll be fine. It's more of a precaution, unless you're building out a computer system.
Some agree, he was working on concrete plus touching the sheet metal most of the time so Steve is doing okay on this job. Carpeting would be the environment to be careful but as long as you are touching the cabinet or a pipe etc. prior to handling the board, you are safe. Those wrist straps do work but if you know what you are doing you can prevent ESD without one.
Nobody gives a shit bro
Blue nitrile gloves are inherently non-conductive. They reduce direct skin contact (a primary source of static).
It does sound like a bad board, especially if it's giving you a twinning fault. It's a single furnace, definitely not twinned. And seeing all that rust and corrosion, it looks like water has been leaking all over it. Probably a previously or current clogged evap drain.
or air intak don,t have a drip scoop in it
It would be a good idea to plug the fan directly into 110v. with simple extension cord.
You can test all fans that way.
The gloves won't do anything to protect against static discharge. They may even make it worse. What you need is an anti-static wrist strap which you connect to ground.
I think I see what you are saying. LIke when he handles the board? maybe it's a non issue.. IDK
Basements are usually damp and static not a poblem.
@@gumbootcloggers8330 Heating systems fail (or are noticed) more often during the winter when the RH is low, even in the basement. If you want to protect against ESD then do it right, it's cheap! That's from a guy who repairs these boards. Your choice as to what you do with that info. There are other things you can do as well but the wrist strap is the simplest.
@@flyer617That board is $85 at the supply house. Is it worth the effort to repair them. When in doubt, swap it out. Charge the customer $125 for diagnostic $225 for labor and sell them the board for $300. Get $750 from the job and forget about the guy that “repairs” the boards.
@@joeburner7120 I get paid to analyze the failures and improve the designs. Nobody reuses the boards after I fix them, they get recycled.
Troubleshooting videos my favorite Steve
Hi Steve, Will there be anymore cooking videos? I love watching the "Workin Men Cooking" Series
💪🏻😄✌🏼
Add some electronic components that will fix it!
Hi Steve UK
"GUNSLINGER FOR HIRE"..., thxs for sharing
Hello Steve!
😎👍
Hey Steve and Miss Molly! Workin’ again ya’ll. 👍👍
Get out the tablet
Another pile of ruud, steve
Hello Steve!