The extra ten horse you get with the B helps in the search for maximum power too! Never will anyone spend so much, and work so hard to go so slow as a banger owner. Still searching for a cheap B myself.
counter weights were added by Henry to keep the crank from wipping. Buy a valve guide removal tool a few bucks easy to use looks like a 1/2" pipe with a u-bend in the middle.
Well that was a great video. I love all the information you shared about the A about B models, not sure if I'll ever find, have or use one but it's nice to have some knowledge about what to look for, can't wait to hear that baby purrr and I can tell it's gonna be a blast to drive, great info and thanks again
I have faithfully been subbed, belled, and waiting for this since the first yard art vid. Hell yeah!😃 Also, I don't see a super huge advantage to the bigger crank unless you do go for a beefier mains size. Be a shame if it has to be turned down to the A size. It is your sandbox though, I am in to the finish.
OKK, here I go. The early 1932 Ford Model B engine did not use a counterweighted crank, but everything else was upgraded. Sometime during production, the counterweighted crank was added, upgrading this to the [engine model 'C'] This engine was carried into 1933, so in passenger car use you had a Model 40 [1933] with a model 'C' engine. [1934 Ford cars were model 40a] This is what you have, a Model 'C' engine & is the best choice to hop up a Model A car, but do yourself a favour & use the whole engine as it was made to feed the main bearings under pressure right from the drawing board. The model A engine is OK if you have nothing else, but the 'B' is better & the 'C' is the best of the bunch You have one, so try not to waste it as this car is going to be a Hot Rod anyway. Also, there is an upgrade available to use the V8 clutch &, I believe, even a V8 gear, or perhaps V8 gearbox upgrade, all of which is recommended. The Model A, B & C heads will interchange as long as the correct front studs are used that go with the head/water pump. Using the 'C' engine with the larger journals will be a better choice with the higher compression too. There is also a valve & guide upgrade available that converts to a more standard type of valve & guide arrangement. So much easier to service. A couple of 97's & a reasonable exhaust will be a great period correct upgrade as well.. Bore this 'C' engine to 4" [in for a penny, in for a pound] & it will be a sweet running, hard pulling little engine. Oh yeah, greetings from Australia.
Thank you for the info! After all my research and reading I did learn that the early 32's or B block did not have the counterweights, obviously this was a 33' so yes it is a C, however I was reading all about how the "C" engine was never really designated a "C", by Ford. It was just a later model counterweighted B engine.... At least that's what I read... However people obviously designated them a C engine throughout the years...Anyway, I am going to obviously do the original block out of the yard art car, and I figured why not use the B crank and then build a full oiling B engine with the forged aftermarket crank? If I crossdrill the B crank and pressurize the mains in the crankcase on the A block, I figured that would be a stout little A engine with counterweights and at a minimum bigger rod journals.... I realize the C engine I have here is kind of a rare deal, but if I'm going to do that block, I'd rather have the scat crank in it, go full out on the B block build..... I understand your logic on it though, but if I do the C engine I would at a minimum crossdrill the original crank to do full oiling, and at that point I figured get the aftermarket crank.... I don't think it makes a difference in the long run, I could go so many different directions at this point....
@@rottersgarage I like your thinking. I had suggested the 'C' crank in the 'A' block, & the scat crank [& rods] in the 'B/C' block in an earlier video regarding this engine. The hopped up 'B' block will ultimately provide the best basis for a, ummm, errr, 'Hopped Up' 4 banger street performance engine. The Ricardo combustion chamber design of your new cylinder head will provide better combustion, better cooling & better knock resistance than the original 'A' cylinder head, so, very good choice there. New Stromberg 97's are, apparently, available with some of the original design flaws engineered out, so if the budget allows, then a pair of these are worthy of your consideration. I had my '57 Dodge Hemi block de-rusted by the Redi Strip process. The water passages came out all but sterile clean. even better than when new. No rust inside to break off & clog the radiator. Highly recommended. Just a thought. PS. Apparently the 'A' block will happily bore to 4" & pistons are supposed to be available at that size. In for a penny, in for a pound.
@@KB10GL I do remember that comment now that you say it about the C crank in the A. I do already have 4" pistons. We just never pulled the trigger on getting going on the block because I was waiting on either welding those weights on or getting what I have now. I hope we can get rolling on it soon, my machine shop guys just put up a new building and will be moving in a month or so, might not get touched again now for a couple months..... Thanks again!
@@rottersgarage On reflection, I wonder if, since you have the counterweights already, is it worth going with plan A & use your original model 'A ' crank with the store bought counterweights added & save the 'C' crank for the future. If I remember rightly, it would be necessary to grind the mains to fit the earlier block, which could possibly weaken it. If this is true, then it becomes unusable in a 'B/C' block while you have all that is needed to use your original 'A' crank that represents an investment in counterweights that would otherwise just take up space on the bench. Your original block will be well served either way The 'C' crank is always going to be a good piece to hold back in reserve. Just letting ideas roll about in my otherwise empty skull.
Thanks for the up dated video. Have been watching Model A build form the start. The heater that came with model b engine would be a good add on if you chose to use it. Looking forward to body work. Have you choose a paint color yet?
Planning on a 4 into 2 long tube header setup for the exhaust and a single carb aluminum intake. Color choice, I'm thinking dark burgundy with black fenders and running boards. The fenders and running boards will be removable for race mode or street mode.... 👍
That's a good question. I was talking to my machinist about that a while ago. We were talking about the potential of cracking the deck when installing them, even though so many people do it, and if it was better to just grind the deck for the bigger valves and maybe add some lead additive to the fuel... Not sure what way we are going to go with that yet but when the block comes back for assembly, I'll be sure to talk about that. 👍
@@rottersgarage Have a look at the JAMSI channel. They did the machining on a Model A engine relatively recently. No crank work, but mostly block & valve work, including valve seat inserts. They are only a 2 man operation, but do fantastic work. Worth a look.
What? All gas sold in the 1930s was unleaded. Leaded gas was not introduced until after the war to accommodate the higher compression engines used in post-war cars.
The extra ten horse you get with the B helps in the search for maximum power too! Never will anyone spend so much, and work so hard to go so slow as a banger owner. Still searching for a cheap B myself.
Being a retired Engineer i find this old engine shit fascinating stuff its going to be a great build buddy 😁😁🤘🤘
An aluminum head for that Era, classic. Absolutely can't wait to hear that baby run now.
🇦🇺👍I enjoy your videos
thanks for the continued yard art work..
Very good work benjy, gonna be a beaut. Can't wait to take a ride in it
Been waiting for the engine tear down, great video. Love to see the old metal tooling working! Good stuff, can't wait for the next one
That should be a fun motor! Thanks
counter weights were added by Henry to keep the crank from wipping. Buy a valve guide removal tool a few bucks easy to use looks like a 1/2" pipe with a u-bend in the middle.
Well that was a great video. I love all the information you shared about the A about B models, not sure if I'll ever find, have or use one but it's nice to have some knowledge about what to look for, can't wait to hear that baby purrr and I can tell it's gonna be a blast to drive, great info and thanks again
Looking forward to next video on yard art; hope to see new one soon; thanks again….
Come on Ben! I need some videos from you brother! I lean a ton from you. Plus you’re just an all around cool dude!😎
More please!
Or find rods that are modern and will fit the new journal size. I think early pontiac rods worked. Also find adjustible lifters
I have faithfully been subbed, belled, and waiting for this since the first yard art vid.
Hell yeah!😃
Also, I don't see a super huge advantage to the bigger crank unless you do go for a beefier mains size. Be a shame if it has to be turned down to the A size. It is your sandbox though, I am in to the finish.
OKK, here I go. The early 1932 Ford Model B engine did not use a counterweighted crank, but everything else was upgraded. Sometime during production, the counterweighted crank was added, upgrading this to the [engine model 'C'] This engine was carried into 1933, so in passenger car use you had a Model 40 [1933] with a model 'C' engine. [1934 Ford cars were model 40a]
This is what you have, a Model 'C' engine & is the best choice to hop up a Model A car, but do yourself a favour & use the whole engine as it was made to feed the main bearings under pressure right from the drawing board.
The model A engine is OK if you have nothing else, but the 'B' is better & the 'C' is the best of the bunch
You have one, so try not to waste it as this car is going to be a Hot Rod anyway.
Also, there is an upgrade available to use the V8 clutch &, I believe, even a V8 gear, or perhaps V8 gearbox upgrade, all of which is recommended.
The Model A, B & C heads will interchange as long as the correct front studs are used that go with the head/water pump. Using the 'C' engine with the larger journals will be a better choice with the higher compression too.
There is also a valve & guide upgrade available that converts to a more standard type of valve & guide arrangement. So much easier to service. A couple of 97's & a reasonable exhaust will be a great period correct upgrade as well..
Bore this 'C' engine to 4" [in for a penny, in for a pound] & it will be a sweet running, hard pulling little engine.
Oh yeah, greetings from Australia.
Thank you for the info! After all my research and reading I did learn that the early 32's or B block did not have the counterweights, obviously this was a 33' so yes it is a C, however I was reading all about how the "C" engine was never really designated a "C", by Ford. It was just a later model counterweighted B engine.... At least that's what I read... However people obviously designated them a C engine throughout the years...Anyway, I am going to obviously do the original block out of the yard art car, and I figured why not use the B crank and then build a full oiling B engine with the forged aftermarket crank? If I crossdrill the B crank and pressurize the mains in the crankcase on the A block, I figured that would be a stout little A engine with counterweights and at a minimum bigger rod journals.... I realize the C engine I have here is kind of a rare deal, but if I'm going to do that block, I'd rather have the scat crank in it, go full out on the B block build..... I understand your logic on it though, but if I do the C engine I would at a minimum crossdrill the original crank to do full oiling, and at that point I figured get the aftermarket crank.... I don't think it makes a difference in the long run, I could go so many different directions at this point....
Also I have the one piece guides for the A engine already and the bigger valves. 👍
@@rottersgarage I like your thinking. I had suggested the 'C' crank in the 'A' block, & the scat crank [& rods] in the 'B/C' block in an earlier video regarding this engine. The hopped up 'B' block will ultimately provide the best basis for a, ummm, errr, 'Hopped Up' 4 banger street performance engine.
The Ricardo combustion chamber design of your new cylinder head will provide better combustion, better cooling & better knock resistance than the original 'A' cylinder head, so, very good choice there.
New Stromberg 97's are, apparently, available with some of the original design flaws engineered out, so if the budget allows, then a pair of these are worthy of your consideration.
I had my '57 Dodge Hemi block de-rusted by the Redi Strip process. The water passages came out all but sterile clean. even better than when new. No rust inside to break off & clog the radiator. Highly recommended.
Just a thought.
PS. Apparently the 'A' block will happily bore to 4" & pistons are supposed to be available at that size. In for a penny, in for a pound.
@@KB10GL I do remember that comment now that you say it about the C crank in the A. I do already have 4" pistons. We just never pulled the trigger on getting going on the block because I was waiting on either welding those weights on or getting what I have now. I hope we can get rolling on it soon, my machine shop guys just put up a new building and will be moving in a month or so, might not get touched again now for a couple months..... Thanks again!
@@rottersgarage On reflection, I wonder if, since you have the counterweights already, is it worth going with plan A & use your original model 'A ' crank with the store bought counterweights added & save the 'C' crank for the future. If I remember rightly, it would be necessary to grind the mains to fit the earlier block, which could possibly weaken it. If this is true, then it becomes unusable in a 'B/C' block while you have all that is needed to use your original 'A' crank that represents an investment in counterweights that would otherwise just take up space on the bench. Your original block will be well served either way
The 'C' crank is always going to be a good piece to hold back in reserve.
Just letting ideas roll about in my otherwise empty skull.
Thanks for the up dated video. Have been watching Model A build form the start. The heater that came with model b engine would be a good add on if you chose to use it. Looking forward to body work. Have you choose a paint color yet?
Planning on a 4 into 2 long tube header setup for the exhaust and a single carb aluminum intake. Color choice, I'm thinking dark burgundy with black fenders and running boards. The fenders and running boards will be removable for race mode or street mode.... 👍
Th@@rottersgarage
Great idea on heater system . The color chose will look real good together. Thanks for getting back with me so soon. Great work on car.@@rottersgarage
Are you going to do valve seat inserts to accommodate unleaded fuel? Nice work, watching with interest
That's a good question. I was talking to my machinist about that a while ago. We were talking about the potential of cracking the deck when installing them, even though so many people do it, and if it was better to just grind the deck for the bigger valves and maybe add some lead additive to the fuel... Not sure what way we are going to go with that yet but when the block comes back for assembly, I'll be sure to talk about that. 👍
@@rottersgarage Have a look at the JAMSI channel. They did the machining on a Model A engine relatively recently. No crank work, but mostly block & valve work, including valve seat inserts. They are only a 2 man operation, but do fantastic work. Worth a look.
What? All gas sold in the 1930s was unleaded. Leaded gas was not introduced until after the war to accommodate the higher compression engines used in post-war cars.
Interesting. Low output engines not too big of a problem I 'spose. Head recon now and then.
Why eff up a Model A block and a Model B (C) crank to make a franken A? Why not put the B (C) block in the yard art A?
Because many voted for the original to be used however for me as long as the engine is era appropriate I don't care (in a good way).
When will there be a new video for the model a yard art 🤔
Where’s Rotter 🤔
I can't take my eyes off that broken stud
That clutch looks burnt.
Olá aqui e do Brazil, eu já estava a espera de mais um vídeo do seu trabalho 🇮🇱🇧🇷👈🏿