I called a relay half way into your diagnostics , it appears to be sticking. I would have thought you would have swapped it out with another in the box to see if maybe the issue would move to let’s say window or horn which would probably gave you the same outcome ..sometimes you don’t have to go straight to fancy equipment, just going back to basics. Thanks fellows..👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I agree, I felt as soon as you heard the click early in the video that the relay was the main suspect. I did not like how the voltage drop on the relay took so long and would have swapped it out with another relay to see if the voltage drop would change. Seems as if the relay was sticking internally.
Good to see you posting again, Eric. Your videos are always entertaining and educational. And your colabs with that border-crosser Oz are fun to watch. Lol.
YOU GUYS ROCK TOGETHER HOPE WILL SEE MORE VIDEOS WITH BOTH OF U ON IT AGAIN THANKS FOR SHARING AND ERIC MAKE SHURE TO LOAD VIDEOS AS SOON AS U CAN PLEASE AND THANKS FOR SHARING CHEEEERS FROM ONTARIO, CANADA.
You two work good together! Intermittent are LOTS of fun! Maybe that's one of them there "Prince of Darkness" Lucas made relays. That one pin on that relay looked like it got to hot! Maybe you guys got lucky with a bad relay. Let us know. You could have put the relay on one of those relay test tools with the extended pins for testing to monitor the powers, grounds and ign trigger wire.
This might not seem important, but whenever I have an issue with intermittent electrical or electronic problems that are temperature related, I use freeze spray or a heat gun depending on the circumstance, and I have found it to be very effective in re-creating the problem.
Thanks for taking the extra time to make the video but I would have had zero shame in loading up the baby parts cannon with a $10 relay a lot earlier especially when it comes to an intermittent issue on a 10+ year old car/relay.
14:42 What changed was pressure on the first fuse probed. I'd be pulling and examining the fuse and it's fitment into the fuse box. Just because the fuse makes a complete circuit across the top does not mean the output of the fuse makes a good connection to the fuse box on both terminals.
I had this problem on my 2002 F150. I had a code P1000 as I remember which meant the battery had been disconnected or the codes erased, or the PCM lost power. I replaced the PCM relay and never had the problem again.
Its a leaky capacator inside ECU, electrolyte spilled causes communication to break sometimes. Automatically comes back when you fiddle. Common problem on kia hyundai.
Had an 82 Lincoln or so that would leave me stranded every where. And I never knew when it was going to stop. One time I was doing 60 on the freeway & the engine quit. Towed it many times to the Lincoln dealer who once let it idle for 6 hours with no problems to no problems as all on the the other occasions. Car broke down again so I called the Lincoln service manager & told them they could have the car for scientific experiments. He simply asked me if I had changed out the power up relay to the computer. Nope, I hadn't. He said change it and the power up relay for the fuel pump which was next to the PU computer relay and I did. Never had a problem with the car again. Each relay costs me $11.46. I had spent about $500 in towing fees plus the Lincoln shop fees were near $1,000.
I had a similar issue with a honda accord but my problem was in the ignition switch. Sometimes electrical issues can be a bear for me to deal with especially on older vehicles.
Thanks for showing your thought process , Great video . Nice colab with Oz . If you had more time, the other thing you could have done is monitor the relay command signal from pcm . Other than that, you covered everything . Did the relay fix it ?
For your skill level Bro, regardless of frustrations, SWAP relay is step #1 once you feel its the problem area, Where is your LISLE Relay tool so you can pin test for loss of control to the relay or simply a bad relay load side switch burned contact or intermit action of the weak relay? I follow both of your guys channels but this relay issue was a bit disappointing to make a true final call of a bad relay, still love you guys, cheers. Some relays can put out a low voltage due to VD across the switch contacts, when sitting static with the key on, the voltage can creep up lessening the VD and eventually, everything will come back to life. I think?? you had this scenario of key on for some time and then CEL on?? My story here is don't use a test light as a load only, for a relay output test, need to see the voltage, you can modify your multimeter with a test light across it to load the circuit at the same time, cheers. I am trying to remember if Jake or Ivan does this???
Called the relay from the start .. honestly, parts cannon on first intuition works most of the time. For me, i only bust the scope out when it doesn't.
I would manually feed the relay power and check connectors see if anything would be evident of corrosion or if anything I'm the inside of the pins detached or loose. I would also carry a relay tester to see If I had all the power and grounds I need
The fact that this guy only has less than 150,000 subscribers YET boomer Scotty Kilmer has millions and doesn’t actually fix anything is what’s wrong with the world
I think the body ground wires that are under the air box/pcm/fuse box area are loose. Seen it before on damage repaired cars. What gives it away is it suddenly working when you leaned on the air intake at the front of the car.
I did think it either relay or loose ground connector. At first I thought loose ground connector because you though that leaning the plastic behind the grill stored the engine check light and most ground connectors are in that area. I wanted to purchase the PS100 Circuit Tester Probe Kit off your link but I didn't see $10.00 coupon clip in there. Was it a coupon code instead? Great video!
right after oz checked the first fuse it started working. is the terminal in the fuse box loose or not in all the way. i would check the fuse box connector.
ADVANCED LEVEL AUTO ? I think Scotty Kilmer mentioned, that on these new cars have to have the right amount of voltage in the battery to keep the computers operating correctly, plus the cranking amps to start the car. make sure you check for current draw and check if the alternator is charging and test the battery.
Because you loose comm and the check engine light sometimes lit sometimes not than the problem is between the power distribution and the ECU or the ECU itself.
Hey Eric, love all the highly technical repair information you put out brother. Quick question though big bro, was the ECM power relay distinct from the others? I figured you would've swapped it for another one while trying to replicate the problem. Unless it was chow time by the time you guys finished lol
I’m a diy guy and every now and then people bring me their vehicles to work on them on simple stuff, got a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon, it’s starts and runs, the check engine light turns on when the key is turned to the on position, but can’t communicate with the ecm with my scanner, any idea of what it could be?
i have had as many as 10 test lights on circuits ,4 channel scope and volt meters and camera watching all those instruments while i wiggle shake and pull, getting crazy out thier
Hey! I tried messaging you but can’t. I have a 2000 goes f 150, and auto place says it’s the auto theft system… serial number that starts with a Y. No junk yard, ford dealer has it. Not even eBay. Replaced alternator two weeks ago. Truck started right up with the spare key. He cleared the computer and every time he starts truck he has to clear it?!! We can’t find a replacement.. we can’t disconnect the anti theft? Or is it the key fob? I just feel like the guys don’t know and they’re making us try and find the part when there isn’t any. Ford said they quit making them because it’s 24 years old. Any advice or help?! Thanks
Hey I was wondering if you have some consulting, I have similar issues and yt references your videos, civic ‘16 was jump start backwards, fixed in&exterior fuses & engine harness, In progress fuse box harness to interior. So far no crank no start. I’m also seeking to purchase a eBay autel elite 2 w/jbox to help diagnose. I have in hand doner pcm&Tcm just incase. My question was regarding the right equipment to try to diy this project.
ADVANCED LEVEL AUTO ? is that the original type of battery for that kia ? was the battery good ? because you had it on the charger for a long time and I heard you suppose to use a certain type of battery for certain new cars do to the computers in system.
If whoever detailed the engine bay. They probably forced water into the engine fuse box or forced water into a sensor, a pigtail using & placing the power washer wand tip therefore forcing water past a rubber seal.
Just a thought, you also had a dead battery. you hooked up voltage to it then all of a sudden it came on. Makes me think you have an issue with battery
Thanks for pushing him Oz we need more videos from Eric.😊😊👍👍
I called a relay half way into your diagnostics , it appears to be sticking. I would have thought you would have swapped it out with another in the box to see if maybe the issue would move to let’s say window or horn which would probably gave you the same outcome ..sometimes you don’t have to go straight to fancy equipment, just going back to basics. Thanks fellows..👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I agree, I felt as soon as you heard the click early in the video that the relay was the main suspect. I did not like how the voltage drop on the relay took so long and would have swapped it out with another relay to see if the voltage drop would change. Seems as if the relay was sticking internally.
Can of duster upside down to make cold when needed. Works like a charm 😊
Used to use that trick a lot, on "dead" radios, to find the faulty IC.
Great idea! I’m gonna buy a can to keep in my truck.
Loved the tag team diag. The Texas border crossing shirt comment cracked me up.
Good to see your red explorer is still on the road.
Actually had this same concern 2 of the exact same Kia’s in the same week, about a year ago.New relay for this fix. Great video!
It's great seeing you two together. It is this channel that turned me on to Oz channel. Enjoy watching you both.
Good to see you posting again, Eric. Your videos are always entertaining and educational. And your colabs with that border-crosser Oz are fun to watch. Lol.
Intermittent issue are frustrating. Good for you to stay on it. Thank you for sharing tour video with us
As usual the master technician at work nothing seems to much for u.keep up the fantastic work ur the best!
Oh wow! I just commented to you about looking forward to more videos and BAM, here it is! Thanks! Now that is what I call service :)
Thanks for your support! More to come!
YOU GUYS ROCK TOGETHER HOPE WILL SEE MORE VIDEOS WITH BOTH OF U ON IT AGAIN THANKS FOR SHARING AND ERIC MAKE SHURE TO LOAD VIDEOS AS SOON AS U CAN PLEASE AND THANKS FOR SHARING CHEEEERS FROM ONTARIO, CANADA.
You two work good together! Intermittent are LOTS of fun!
Maybe that's one of them there "Prince of Darkness" Lucas made relays.
That one pin on that relay looked like it got to hot! Maybe you guys got lucky with a bad relay.
Let us know.
You could have put the relay on one of those relay test tools with the extended pins for testing to monitor the powers, grounds and ign trigger wire.
Glad to see you back after quite a considerable pause.
Who said that KIA doesn't have an immobilizer? We just watched 35 minutes of how it works!
Great way to prevent car theft. Build a car that doesn't run 😂
I have honda accord 2021 hybrid cant program fob key when scanned get(the system is not normal) can you help me with that? @@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO
Took me a while to get that shit. Lmao
The immobilizer delete was a cost cutting option for base trims, bad decision in hindsight.
Please how do you get the wiring diagram @@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO
When the greats get together it's nuttin but love
Been wondering about ya, Eric. Glad to see you're back. I don't know about that other guy though. ha ha
Hey Eric, consider using a cold spray on the Relay to make it really cold. Awesome video, thank you!
Good to see you guys in action we use to say at the dealer I worked at is if the cs don't run out of money we will get it fixed. Sam
thats exactly the only one way to find whats missing ,when the fault acts! i dont think anyone else could do better than u guys did it!
Your video showed how it goes in the real world Great job.
Oz has cool sweatshirt. Was living in College Station for over 5 years, so I was frequently in Houston, visiting Polish shop.
Im seeing this late, but glad to see you both are friends! Nice work!
This might not seem important, but whenever I have an issue with intermittent electrical or electronic problems that are temperature related, I use freeze spray or a heat gun depending on the circumstance, and I have found it to be very effective in re-creating the problem.
Thanks for taking the extra time to make the video but I would have had zero shame in loading up the baby parts cannon with a $10 relay a lot earlier especially when it comes to an intermittent issue on a 10+ year old car/relay.
Welcome back. Great video 👍 👍
I'm glad you're back to making videos man. Hope all is well ✌️
ADVANCED LEVEL AUTO - Thanks. I'm having exactly the same problem with my Forte as I type this.
14:42 What changed was pressure on the first fuse probed. I'd be pulling and examining the fuse and it's fitment into the fuse box. Just because the fuse makes a complete circuit across the top does not mean the output of the fuse makes a good connection to the fuse box on both terminals.
I had this problem on my 2002 F150. I had a code P1000 as I remember which meant the battery had been disconnected or the codes erased, or the PCM lost power. I replaced the PCM relay and never had the problem again.
It was nice to see your Ford Explorer again! 😀
Its a leaky capacator inside ECU, electrolyte spilled causes communication to break sometimes. Automatically comes back when you fiddle. Common problem on kia hyundai.
New relay was the fix! Thanks for watching!
About time
🙄🤔😳😁 4:40
All that horse power in that small car is crazy
Had an 82 Lincoln or so that would leave me stranded every where. And I never knew when it was going to stop. One time I was doing 60 on the freeway & the engine quit. Towed it many times to the Lincoln dealer who once let it idle for 6 hours with no problems to no problems as all on the the other occasions. Car broke down again so I called the Lincoln service manager & told them they could have the car for scientific experiments. He simply asked me if I had changed out the power up relay to the computer. Nope, I hadn't. He said change it and the power up relay for the fuel pump which was next to the PU computer relay and I did. Never had a problem with the car again. Each relay costs me $11.46. I had spent about $500 in towing fees plus the Lincoln shop fees were near $1,000.
finally you came back🥳🥳🥳
I had a similar issue with a honda accord but my problem was in the ignition switch. Sometimes electrical issues can be a bear for me to deal with especially on older vehicles.
Hey. Good to see à vidéo from you. Was thé Last one 4 months ago? Too long time
Thanks for waiting! I'll be uploading regularly from now on.
Thanks for showing your thought process , Great video . Nice colab with Oz . If you had more time, the other thing you could have done is monitor the relay command signal from pcm . Other than that, you covered everything . Did the relay fix it ?
Cool to see Oz and Eric working together.do some more videos together.
For your skill level Bro, regardless of frustrations, SWAP relay is step #1 once you feel its the problem area, Where is your LISLE Relay tool so you can pin test for loss of control to the relay or simply a bad relay load side switch burned contact or intermit action of the weak relay? I follow both of your guys channels but this relay issue was a bit disappointing to make a true final call of a bad relay, still love you guys, cheers.
Some relays can put out a low voltage due to VD across the switch contacts, when sitting static with the key on, the voltage can creep up lessening the VD and eventually, everything will come back to life. I think?? you had this scenario of key on for some time and then CEL on?? My story here is don't use a test light as a load only, for a relay output test, need to see the voltage, you can modify your multimeter with a test light across it to load the circuit at the same time, cheers. I am trying to remember if Jake or Ivan does this???
Good to see you back man 👍
Called the relay from the start .. honestly, parts cannon on first intuition works most of the time. For me, i only bust the scope out when it doesn't.
I would manually feed the relay power and check connectors see if anything would be evident of corrosion or if anything I'm the inside of the pins detached or loose. I would also carry a relay tester to see If I had all the power and grounds I need
The fact that this guy only has less than 150,000 subscribers YET boomer Scotty Kilmer has millions and doesn’t actually fix anything is what’s wrong with the world
Eric would absolutely blow up if he posted more often, but "real life" sometimes gets in the way.
Stupid people , Governments thrive on this
As always amazing tag team. Question to Eric how can I use Alldata on my phone? . Thanks a million
I think the body ground wires that are under the air box/pcm/fuse box area are loose. Seen it before on damage repaired cars.
What gives it away is it suddenly working when you leaned on the air intake at the front of the car.
Ahead on the video I saw the synthom better. Change the fuse box and problem solved. It is not the relay.
love your educational videos!
I questioned relay when it was taking 3 or 4 seconds to turn off. I k ow there can be a delay but this delay seemed extended
I did think it either relay or loose ground connector. At first I thought loose ground connector because you though that leaning the plastic behind the grill stored the engine check light and most ground connectors are in that area.
I wanted to purchase the PS100 Circuit Tester Probe Kit off your link but I didn't see $10.00 coupon clip in there. Was it a coupon code instead?
Great video!
First I would check output of that relay and confirm it’s leaving the relay, then I would confirm powers and grounds at ecm
I had a lot this problem pcm or main relay was fixed
Water or a corrode pin in a connector under the fuse box. May be?
hello when you were testing the ground with the power scan circuit breaker that's the same as testing for continuity right?
right after oz checked the first fuse it started working. is the terminal in the fuse box loose or not in all the way. i would check the fuse box connector.
Test the alternator voltage, if you disconnect the battery and it turns off
ADVANCED LEVEL AUTO ? I think Scotty Kilmer mentioned, that on these new cars have to have the right amount of voltage in the battery to keep the computers operating correctly, plus the cranking amps to start the car. make sure you check for current draw and check if the alternator is charging and test the battery.
Because you loose comm and the check engine light sometimes lit sometimes not than the problem is between the power distribution and the ECU or the ECU itself.
Love your channel
GOAT 👍
Hey Eric, love all the highly technical repair information you put out brother. Quick question though big bro, was the ECM power relay distinct from the others? I figured you would've swapped it for another one while trying to replicate the problem. Unless it was chow time by the time you guys finished lol
Yes, we swapped the relay with another one in the fuse box. I still told the owner to replace it with a new OEM relay.
@ADVANCEDLEVELAUTO Nice, again Mr Eric outstanding work 🙏
Do a light and vigorous wire harness Shake while it's running
Why is the signal so slow on that scope what frequency do the vantage refresh at I know my fluke isn’t that laggy
I’m a diy guy and every now and then people bring me their vehicles to work on them on simple stuff, got a 2005 Hyundai Tiburon, it’s starts and runs, the check engine light turns on when the key is turned to the on position, but can’t communicate with the ecm with my scanner, any idea of what it could be?
i have had as many as 10 test lights on circuits ,4 channel scope and volt meters and camera watching all those instruments while i wiggle shake and pull, getting crazy out thier
try wiggle test when running see if it dies
Please how do you get the wiring diagram
What did y’all come up with? I’m having the same freaking issue with my 2015 Kia Forte
You need Bernie Thompson
Hey! I tried messaging you but can’t. I have a 2000 goes f 150, and auto place says it’s the auto theft system… serial number that starts with a Y. No junk yard, ford dealer has it. Not even eBay. Replaced alternator two weeks ago. Truck started right up with the spare key. He cleared the computer and every time he starts truck he has to clear it?!! We can’t find a replacement.. we can’t disconnect the anti theft? Or is it the key fob? I just feel like the guys don’t know and they’re making us try and find the part when there isn’t any. Ford said they quit making them because it’s 24 years old. Any advice or help?! Thanks
Need more collabs 👌🏼
Yea come on Eric more collabs !!!
I don't know if you're comfortable with this question but where do you get wiring diagram for different vehicles?
Alldata
Keep uploading them videos!
Part 10 years ago 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Thank you brother’s from Iraq
Hey I was wondering if you have some consulting, I have similar issues and yt references your videos, civic ‘16 was jump start backwards, fixed in&exterior fuses & engine harness, In progress fuse box harness to interior. So far no crank no start. I’m also seeking to purchase a eBay autel elite 2 w/jbox to help diagnose. I have in hand doner pcm&Tcm just incase. My question was regarding the right equipment to try to diy this project.
ADVANCED LEVEL AUTO ? is that the original type of battery for that kia ? was the battery good ? because you had it on the charger for a long time and I heard you suppose to use a certain type of battery for certain new cars do to the computers in system.
Autozone relay?
It looked to be the original relay. Thanks for watching!
Update either way if the new relay fixes it. Thank you
Yes, new relay fixed the problem. More than 2 weeks later and no problem.
Where do you get the wiring diagram
If whoever detailed the engine bay. They probably forced water into the engine fuse box or forced water into a sensor, a pigtail using & placing the power washer wand tip therefore forcing water past a rubber seal.
what relay was it?
Hey, wats man its been a while. Thanks, we back to business
What are you using on phone for wiring diagrams ?
Alldata
Love the video thank you.
Just curious why would you tell the customer to get the relay.
Just a thought, you also had a dead battery. you hooked up voltage to it then all of a sudden it came on. Makes me think you have an issue with battery
I would check the flux capacitor😁
This is what happens when you leave for to long eric😅., no one to learn from .
@@760sky9 🤣🤣🤣
Do the wiggle test 😊
cool seen 2 great tech thanks
Good work 👍
Been awhile, hope all has been well...
I would of switched relays around
We did, but I told the owner to replace the relay with a new OEM.
Great vid Eric and Oz !!!. Love Kia with the oldschool key. Who needs technology ? !!!!. What a POS
I'd check the grounds then see if the pcm is getting the powers and grounds
Yes Eric 👍
Thanks for watching!
The relay staying latched was a big red flag.
Im not a fan of wiggle and swap until there's a clear direction
Hey!!! Bro, where have you beennn. I really missed your uploads
Working
The truth is he’s been on an escape room tour. Touring all the escape rooms in Texas
Please boss how do I get the alldatta on my phone too?
Pay for an AllData subscription. Thanks for watching!
Superb channel!
I wish to get in touch with you.
How could this be made possible?
Will value the time
Thanks for you vidéo super 👍
Good shit FR