This was useful to see - used complete window regulators start from around £50 and go upwards ; however I did find on 'a well known auction site' repair kits which include new cables and springs plus that pulley for between £5 and £15 , although some are for W210 they claim to be compatible with W124 . Only my nsr regulator is giving trouble with the tell tale loop of cable hanging loose by the motor ( having removed the door card to check ) . I'm minded to order one of these repair kits towards the bottom end of the price range and see if it works , and if worst comes to worst I can order a complete regulator . Easy enough to cut a piece of wood to length to keep the window closed and car secure until it is fixed .
Thanks for your advise on this matter and all the other info you provide to the community. I bought a few second hand ones but they generally don't last and the cable get entangled as you have shown. However, I also bought cheap complete sets from Amazon and so far no problems at all. Keep up the good work and thanks for your help.
My sons W201 rear window regulator did the same exact thing. Cable "bird nested" and got flat spots in the cable. We just ordered another one because I couldn't salvage the old one.
The large nylon gear on my front right motor has a few broken teeth, do you know if that part of the motor housing which contains the gear is available for purchase separately? My motor works fine, the problem is when it gets to the part with the missing teeth the window stops and it will only continue working if you help it by hand.
hello, on W124 260E. front window. how you test the motor with direct battery ? 2 wires green and black. green wires go to (+) battery. negative battery go to ground or other black wire ? best vibes cheers ;)
Thanks for the tear down and analysis. Look forward to your solution. I have two rear windows with problems, and the drivers window is sloppy, so I’ll dive in soon. Your video is a great guide. I didn’t see your method to release the clips at the bottom of the door liner. I’m interested to know if you have a method other than any thin pry tool. Thanks!
MMWA I should have said mine is a ‘93 W201. There are a few fasteners at the bottom of my doors that require prying out of fittings in the door. I was likely mistaken your door would be similar. Once Those bottom fasteners are loosened, mine also require pulling up to remove. Thanks and hope to see your fix for the regulator and motor.
The front regulators are entirely different and use a toothed quadrant where the teeth usually wear down near the limit points ; some people have had success welding in new metal then filing the teeth profiles back ; or you can buy a new regulator minus the motor for reasonable cost .
Thanks for the informative video, now I know how to take out the motor from the assembly, which is somehow broken down, do you suggest having the motor repaired?
I wish you guys have a Pick and Pull in your country like we have in USA . You can go there and destroy the whole car for $2 . And buy any parts for really cheap.
These are signs of time... lol old grease, heat and maybe not much use through the part's life. Mine has manual regulator and I'm wondering if it's a good business trying to install a generic motor matching to the lever's gear...
many years ago when I was a teenager, I drove an australian made ford with manual windows, at the time there was a conversion kit you could buy with a motor and a flat coupling you slotted over the manual handle shaft. The motor was remotely connected to this coupling with 2 flexible tubes. You then put a plastic cap over the holes in the doors where the handles were. I thought I was clever & purchased the oem front 2 window switch panel with switches and wired them up to use these. It worked pretty well surprisingly though the baily channels were worn and these windows were huge so they struggled to lift sometimes.
@@MMWA-DAVE but my oem part didn’t even last as long either . It’s crazy how eveyone assume the Chinese parts are junk but they never build the parts themself 😬
@@chuemoua6834 for what its worth, i have chinese regulators in the rear of both my 124’s and they work fine. The cars are hardly driven and even then I never use the rear windows so cant speak for their longevity
@@chuemoua6834 I got them on ebay. Beware theres versions with and without the motors. I got the versions with the motors. The ones without dont fit the factory motors without alot of work and modifications.
This was useful to see - used complete window regulators start from around £50 and go upwards ; however I did find on 'a well known auction site' repair kits which include new cables and springs plus that pulley for between £5 and £15 , although some are for W210 they claim to be compatible with W124 . Only my nsr regulator is giving trouble with the tell tale loop of cable hanging loose by the motor ( having removed the door card to check ) .
I'm minded to order one of these repair kits towards the bottom end of the price range and see if it works , and if worst comes to worst I can order a complete regulator . Easy enough to cut a piece of wood to length to keep the window closed and car secure until it is fixed .
Thanks for your advise on this matter and all the other info you provide to the community. I bought a few second hand ones but they generally don't last and the cable get entangled as you have shown. However, I also bought cheap complete sets from Amazon and so far no problems at all.
Keep up the good work and thanks for your help.
My sons W201 rear window regulator did the same exact thing. Cable "bird nested" and got flat spots in the cable. We just ordered another one because I couldn't salvage the old one.
thank for helping me fix this regulator...make alot video..tq
The large nylon gear on my front right motor has a few broken teeth, do you know if that part of the motor housing which contains the gear is available for purchase separately? My motor works fine, the problem is when it gets to the part with the missing teeth the window stops and it will only continue working if you help it by hand.
hello, on W124 260E. front window. how you test the motor with direct battery ? 2 wires green and black. green wires go to (+) battery. negative battery go to ground or other black wire ? best vibes cheers ;)
Thanks for the tear down and analysis. Look forward to your solution. I have two rear windows with problems, and the drivers window is sloppy, so I’ll dive in soon. Your video is a great guide. I didn’t see your method to release the clips at the bottom of the door liner. I’m interested to know if you have a method other than any thin pry tool. Thanks!
majicul you lift the whole trim straight upwards. These are hooks and will be broken if pried
MMWA I should have said mine is a ‘93 W201. There are a few fasteners at the bottom of my doors that require prying out of fittings in the door. I was likely mistaken your door would be similar. Once Those bottom fasteners are loosened, mine also require pulling up to remove. Thanks and hope to see your fix for the regulator and motor.
The front regulators are entirely different and use a toothed quadrant where the teeth usually wear down near the limit points ; some people have had success welding in new metal then filing the teeth profiles back ; or you can buy a new regulator minus the motor for reasonable cost .
Motor spec ?
Thanks for the informative video, now I know how to take out the motor from the assembly, which is somehow broken down, do you suggest having the motor repaired?
I was never able to find parts for the motor assembly so unfortunately ended up with chinese replacement complete regulators
@@MMWA-DAVE Thanks, I will be looking to find replacements in the junkyards then
You can buy a repair kit, cable, cable drum and guide on line for around 16 us $
got a link?
@@MMWA-DAVE Ebay, just type model and window regulator repair kit
Did you find a mfg for the replacement wheel?
Frank Riedel they are available from powerwin.com.au that gear is 3 pieces. The bottom bit with the teeth that is no longer round is available.
I wish you guys have a Pick and Pull in your country like we have in USA .
You can go there and destroy the whole car for $2 .
And buy any parts for really cheap.
if the only cable get entangled, and can not be reused, we trick by replacing with Gas Cable of small motor bike like Vespa. much more cheaper
These are signs of time... lol old grease, heat and maybe not much use through the part's life. Mine has manual regulator and I'm wondering if it's a good business trying to install a generic motor matching to the lever's gear...
many years ago when I was a teenager, I drove an australian made ford with manual windows, at the time there was a conversion kit you could buy with a motor and a flat coupling you slotted over the manual handle shaft. The motor was remotely connected to this coupling with 2 flexible tubes. You then put a plastic cap over the holes in the doors where the handles were. I thought I was clever & purchased the oem front 2 window switch panel with switches and wired them up to use these. It worked pretty well surprisingly though the baily channels were worn and these windows were huge so they struggled to lift sometimes.
Why not just get a reputable cable company to make up a new cable?
Ok🥰
Why do we used Chinese as a insult Al the time ? 😊
because Chinese parts have no place on a w124.
@@MMWA-DAVE but my oem part didn’t even last as long either . It’s crazy how eveyone assume the Chinese parts are junk but they never build the parts themself 😬
@@chuemoua6834 for what its worth, i have chinese regulators in the rear of both my 124’s and they work fine. The cars are hardly driven and even then I never use the rear windows so cant speak for their longevity
@@MMWA-DAVE tell me where to buy it . I rather spend less on a car that doesn’t have much value .
@@chuemoua6834 I got them on ebay. Beware theres versions with and without the motors. I got the versions with the motors. The ones without dont fit the factory motors without alot of work and modifications.