You're the only person on youtube that has gone through the *entire* process from start to finish of repairing this board - including showing the TV turning on with picture - in a 42 minute video tutorial and still got 10% dislike ratio... What the hell is wrong with people !
I had the exact same problem and after many months of waiting for components i finally managed to replace them thanks to this video. The TV worked again so i was very excited, thinking i pulled it off, but after 1min there was an explosion and it died again. I ordered a new TV -_-
@@cesarwebber9073 I can't be sure, but i've been thinking there is a the possibility that i didnt wait long enough for the cleaning product to evaporate, from the parts that i could not reach, and that created a short circuit on one of the new components. I did manage to fix my TV with a revisioned panel i got from ebay.
Many BIG Thanks for sharing how to repair this board. I came across the exact same problem, 7 blinks and the shorts you measured I see on my board as well. I wonder if one of the build in fans is getting lazy and does not pull enough air through the rear causing slow death.
Very well made and concise video. I guess there a thousands of Panasonic plasma owners that will be glad to see this! Do I need to change the 2 buffer boards after making this repair ?
You should check those buffer boards *before* turning on your TV (after having repaired the TNPA5335 board). If either buffer buard is damaged (shorted) then turning your TV back on may well damage the 5335 board once again! A simple way to test the buffer boards is: 1) verify that the resistance across the terminals of the big electr. cap in the bottom-left corner of the board (C842) is not a very low value (wait a while after having turned your TV off to let that elcap discharge!). If this is, say, about 10 Ohm or lower then chances are at least one of the buffer boards is damaged. 2) you can also verify that none of the contacts of the buffer boards (TNPA5333 and TNPA5334, the two boards to the left of the TNPA5335) which, through the flat cables, go to the panel are shorted. To do this, rise the brown cover of those flat cable connectors (without touching nor removing the cables!!). This will let you access the connector pins with the multimeter probe. Now connect e.g. the black multimeter probe to one of the screws which mechanically and electrically join the 5334 or 5333 board to the 5335 board (there are two couples of those screws, one couple for the 5334 and one for the 5333) and check for shorts by having the red probe pass on each of the connector pins (depending on your multimeter reaction (beep) time to shorts, you may have to adjust you "swipe speed"). If you do get any shorts, then the corresponding 5333 or 5334 board is broken. Don't forget to lower the connectors "covers" at the end of the test! As far as I know, these buffer boards aren't easily repairable by amateurs. In such a case, your best chance is to locate a new board (which has been successfully checked against any such short). There is a nice video showing how to test the buffer boards as described above: ua-cam.com/video/_oX8hMcXjWg/v-deo.html The same author also shows in a later video how he added a fan to his TV hoping to lower the chances of future failures. Another possible cause for 5335 failures and the "7 blinks" error is the ground screws of the 5335 board getting loose. This applies also to several other models of Panasonic plasma TV's. The screws get loose mostly because of the tin placed around the board screw holes. Let me quote Mr. Hermann Schmidt about this problem (comment on a 5335 repair video): "You forgot to fix the actual cause of the fault: the ground screws. You must remove all the solder from the holes. The solder is floating under pressure and that makes the screws loosen up again. Sparks are the result of that and those kill the semiconductors." Besides leading to mosfet failures, loose screws can also cause "false colors" (mosty a red "haze") on the picture produced by the plasma TV. I had this very case with a P42S30E TV. Simply tightening up those screws "incredibly" solved that issue! By the way: besides the components shown in this 5335 repair video, in my case I also found out that a mosfet in the bottom-right corner of the board had been broken and needed replacement. I also had to replace the 7.5 Ohm resistors nearby Q421 as it had taken quite a heating and measured higher than its nominal value. Hope this helps someone out there! Ciao
Hello, very much appreciated your video. I just went through the repair process of the TNPA5335 in my veira TH-P50ST30Z. Replaced D401, D421, Q401-Q403, Q421-Q23, Diode Q531, IC502, R401-R403 and R421-R423. I powered it up, beautiful picture as it always had been, thought sure all was good and after about 10 min, the identical mosfet exploded again - Q402. About 4-months ago, i replaced the upper and lower buffer boards (TNPA5537/TNPA5536) to correct a horizontal bar that began to appear on the screen and it's been working great until Q402 exploded a couple weeks ago. Really hate to put this great TV in recycle container. I'm quite a resourceful EE, do you have any suggestions what the root cause could be? Many thanks for your time to respond.
cracking Vid, just the info i needed. one thing i want to ask? few people have mentioned about them over heating and sticking small heatsinks on them to help with any future issues. whats your thoughts on doing that? is there any need?
Awesome video. I have one of these boards that is defective. The diode? that is blown (visibly blown) is labeled R2057A. I can't seem to find it by that name anywhere. Couldn't figure out how to get in touch with you to order the part. Thanks a lot.
Do you have a certain seller you buy your components from on Ali express cause there are a few comments on them to say that they are fakes and are diodes and not IGBT?
You're the only person on youtube that has gone through the *entire* process from start to finish of repairing this board - including showing the TV turning on with picture - in a 42 minute video tutorial and still got 10% dislike ratio... What the hell is wrong with people !
I had the exact same problem and after many months of waiting for components i finally managed to replace them thanks to this video. The TV worked again so i was very excited, thinking i pulled it off, but after 1min there was an explosion and it died again. I ordered a new TV -_-
Buffer board is OK?
Or fake components.
@@cesarwebber9073 I can't be sure, but i've been thinking there is a the possibility that i didnt wait long enough for the cleaning product to evaporate, from the parts that i could not reach, and that created a short circuit on one of the new components. I did manage to fix my TV with a revisioned panel i got from ebay.
Thanks, This has helped me a lot ❤❤❤
You're welcome 😊
Many BIG Thanks for sharing how to repair this board. I came across the exact same problem, 7 blinks and the shorts you measured I see on my board as well. I wonder if one of the build in fans is getting lazy and does not pull enough air through the rear causing slow death.
Very well made and concise video. I guess there a thousands of Panasonic plasma owners that will be glad to see this! Do I need to change the 2 buffer boards after making this repair ?
You should check those buffer boards *before* turning on your TV (after having repaired the TNPA5335 board). If either buffer buard is damaged (shorted) then turning your TV back on may well damage the 5335 board once again! A simple way to test the buffer boards is: 1) verify that the resistance across the terminals of the big electr. cap in the bottom-left corner of the board (C842) is not a very low value (wait a while after having turned your TV off to let that elcap discharge!). If this is, say, about 10 Ohm or lower then chances are at least one of the buffer boards is damaged. 2) you can also verify that none of the contacts of the buffer boards (TNPA5333 and TNPA5334, the two boards to the left of the TNPA5335) which, through the flat cables, go to the panel are shorted. To do this, rise the brown cover of those flat cable connectors (without touching nor removing the cables!!). This will let you access the connector pins with the multimeter probe. Now connect e.g. the black multimeter probe to one of the screws which mechanically and electrically join the 5334 or 5333 board to the 5335 board (there are two couples of those screws, one couple for the 5334 and one for the 5333) and check for shorts by having the red probe pass on each of the connector pins (depending on your multimeter reaction (beep) time to shorts, you may have to adjust you "swipe speed"). If you do get any shorts, then the corresponding 5333 or 5334 board is broken. Don't forget to lower the connectors "covers" at the end of the test! As far as I know, these buffer boards aren't easily repairable by amateurs. In such a case, your best chance is to locate a new board (which has been successfully checked against any such short).
There is a nice video showing how to test the buffer boards as described above:
ua-cam.com/video/_oX8hMcXjWg/v-deo.html
The same author also shows in a later video how he added a fan to his TV hoping to lower the chances of future failures.
Another possible cause for 5335 failures and the "7 blinks" error is the ground screws of the 5335 board getting loose. This applies also to several other models of Panasonic plasma TV's. The screws get loose mostly because of the tin placed around the board screw holes. Let me quote Mr. Hermann Schmidt about this problem (comment on a 5335 repair video): "You forgot to fix the actual cause of the fault: the ground screws. You must remove all the solder from the holes. The solder is floating under pressure and that makes the screws loosen up again. Sparks are the result of that and those kill the semiconductors."
Besides leading to mosfet failures, loose screws can also cause "false colors" (mosty a red "haze") on the picture produced by the plasma TV. I had this very case with a P42S30E TV. Simply tightening up those screws "incredibly" solved that issue!
By the way: besides the components shown in this 5335 repair video, in my case I also found out that a mosfet in the bottom-right corner of the board had been broken and needed replacement.
I also had to replace the 7.5 Ohm resistors nearby Q421 as it had taken quite a heating and measured higher than its nominal value.
Hope this helps someone out there! Ciao
Hello, very much appreciated your video. I just went through the repair process of the TNPA5335 in my veira TH-P50ST30Z. Replaced D401, D421, Q401-Q403, Q421-Q23, Diode Q531, IC502, R401-R403 and R421-R423. I powered it up, beautiful picture as it always had been, thought sure all was good and after about 10 min, the identical mosfet exploded again - Q402. About 4-months ago, i replaced the upper and lower buffer boards (TNPA5537/TNPA5536) to correct a horizontal bar that began to appear on the screen and it's been working great until Q402 exploded a couple weeks ago. Really hate to put this great TV in recycle container. I'm quite a resourceful EE, do you have any suggestions what the root cause could be? Many thanks for your time to respond.
cracking Vid, just the info i needed.
one thing i want to ask? few people have mentioned about them over heating and sticking small heatsinks on them to help with any future issues. whats your thoughts on doing that? is there any need?
Awesome video. I have one of these boards that is defective. The diode? that is blown (visibly blown) is labeled R2057A. I can't seem to find it by that name anywhere. Couldn't figure out how to get in touch with you to order the part. Thanks a lot.
Super, thank you for your very clear explanation. I fixed my plasma.
Do you have a certain seller you buy your components from on Ali express cause there are a few comments on them to say that they are fakes and are diodes and not IGBT?
hi have you got any vidoe on a panasonic tx-l42ft60b flickering lines on screen every 3 min and its not the t-conboard
Badass!! Thanks
What is Y02 in the circuit? i need to change it
CPH5524
Is it a SC board ?
Hi can you repair a TNPA4188 BD for TH50PX75U
By the way my problem is half of the upper screen is blank.,help..
Replace the SU board and/or check connector SD42.
Dam" i like the video but the first freaking 2 minutes about actually testing the board i couldn't understand.