I reckon it's to do with the ECU cam timing.. I had the exactly same issue with my k20, unplug the solenoid the noise when away, only happened when hot, the issue I had was the ECU was demanding to much timing and causing the cam gears to shatter together, a simple plug in with the laptop and within 20 minutes it was sorted. 🤙🏼 Hope this helps bro
The fact that the noise goes away when the solenoid is unplugged tells us that the issue lies in the system control itself. Solenoids are typically on,off, or Pulse Width Modulated = PWM. The solenoid is being pulsed open, letting oil pressure into the cam phaser to move the cam into the desired position. It's then rattling because it's either bleeding off that oil pressure too quickly allowing it to slap back, or oil pressure to the phaser itself is insufficient moving the cam away from the phaser just enough for a split sec and then it slaps back. If the oil feed is insufficient i would think the issue would get better or be less apparent with more RPM because they usually make higher oil pressure thus increasing flow but who knows. If you look closely at the access port the "bad" phaser is slower to respond relative to its counterpart. I've replaced quite a few cam phaser seals on ford ecoboosts for this exact issue. I'm a ford guy and no subaru expert but i'm 100% confident the issue is a bad seal or plugged galley. IDK where their phasers have seals but i'd check those first if it's easier then move onto a teardown for a plugged galley.
Drive the car and monitor avcs angle on all 4 cams.... Did u use new gears when u rebuild the engine? Did u clean the old ones and re assemble without a spare cam they can get misaligned quite easily......
He fucked the Subaru up I've been driving an 05 Forester with 570whp stock motor with only upgraded 14mm studs and all the external reliability mods with a gt3576 going strong for 10years. But I can say I had an 02 with a billet block that kept it for only one year that kissed valves the wrong timing belt position was at fault the engine except the piston and the valve that Forged together was somehow still operational and drove it 30km to the mechanics shop back in 2008 miss that car
Update..... problem fixed, replaced left side oil control valve and assembly holder which is drivers side on the bottom of engine. Also replaced ground wires going to oil control valve left and right side because they were corroded bad. Now on my accessport avcs intake left/right read same, and avcs exhaust left/right read the same. Before avcs exhaust left was reading 0 sometimes jumping to 1 or 2. Cel has stayed off and car is running great.
Gotta love Bobby, dont sell all the Subaru's i love and need your SUBI content brotha it keeps me inspired. Evo all you like and others just never stop Subi . Aussie fan =) ]
Your diagnostic is spot on. Check that the banjo bolt "filter" is not clogged (if it is remove filter). I had a similar issue, but with no diagnostic computer. My problem was a stuck AVCS actuactor/sensor. I needed a Subaru Master technician to find that issue.
You are correct you should of sent the Cam gears out to Outfront Motorsports or replaced them. You are giving a Subaru a worse name when your don't know crap about cam gears and YOU PULLed them apart. I nitrate all my crankshafts through a coating company. Not the crappy nitrate done by Subaru factory. Then use WPC treated Race bearings and the thing will last forever!. It it what Subaru Rally team does. Your Subarus are beautiful. Mad props on that
I think you’re correct about the plugged up oil Galley. the knocking could be the avcs gear slapping back and fourth. Same thing with the erratic cam position
I agree, however, after just going through a similar issue after a drivetrain swap on an earlier model (2006 with 04 drivetrain), figured I'd add that, at least on those models, sometimes a bad alternator can screw with cam sensor signals and cause a code and/or unstable avcs readings due to the sensor output getting a bit noisy. Not sure if they resolved this issue on later models, but on the earlier ones you could unplug the green connector on the alternator and if the problem resolved the issue was the alternator, so 10 second test and might be worth ruling out. Sometimes the ECU on those would fail in a way that would cause the same issue too. In my case, the cam sensor sense wire was partially pulled out of the connector and making poor/intermittent contact, causing misfires, jumpy avcs readings, and a code. Car would only start with some throttle.
I think 80% of us would have burnt it to the ground by now and or pulled out every last hair on our head. Keep up the patience dude! I'll keep watchin!
When the head shop cleaned the heads, did they remove the pressed in brass oil restrictors behind the allen plugs and clean them? Did they return them to the correct positions, orientation, & depth? It's definitely pressure/flow related. Exhaust AVCS is the last thing to get oil in the heads
keep your head up DN...so asked a few friends with scoobs about your issue and one said there is a banjo bolt located under the air intake pipe that has a little filter inside that might be your problem. Check the little filter for damage or blockage. It's worth a try at this point.. Good luck🤙
I have an 06 and my driver's side banjo was filled with debris when I removed it, which I did right after I'm guessing it split open and filled my ocv with debris, causing it to stop working correctly, which is what led me to inspect it. Definitely a good thing to check! On the earlier cars, there were three. On is on turbo feed, another on passenger side top under fuel pressure regulator, and another on the driver's side on top. Id personally pull the filters on all three on any new-to-me WRX.
If I had Subie, still will ask you to Fix it, make it better. Your a Great Mechanic. Like the fast foward clip of you taking apart and putting back together stuff in the engine.
This makes me appreciate the simplicity of my SOHC EJ25. Not powerful at all, but gets me to work everyday. Hopefully you get it resolve, you've done so much work. This is painful...
@@resilientproductions3893 this particular issue could have happened on a standard rebuild. Doesn't appear to be a result of any of the performance components.
Check the screen in the banjo for the feed line to the AVCS, it's super fine, and could get clogged after building a new motor, especially if you saw particles already.
Its should be mini oil filters(meshes) In solenoids oil gallerys, check it, or connectioron sensor, solenoids, maybe some of teeth on camshaft gear bended... Somehow
looks like you already tried replacing or cleaning all the AVCS Cam Sprockets and oil control valve (Avcs solenoid). try banjo bolt filter screens in the oil delivery tubing for both the AVCS and the turbocharger. Googled this. Then get in there and check for blockages, try remove ALL the screens. Hey man Devin, cars can be so frustrating and rewarding as you know, why we have love/hate relationship with them lol, but on the flip side remember it's also providing us all with excellent content to watch which helps the channel, you are doing extract the right thing, walk away from it for a while, and take a break from it, move on to something else and give yourself some breathing space, thinking time, and research time. you got this bro.
@@culturemotived2190 A good majority of the time it’s due to lack of maintenance and/or owners who beat on their vehicles. There are people who come from a Honda platform and expect the same out of a Subaru. If you take care of them, it’ll take care of you
Bud I take my hat off for you for being so patient ,It’s not easy to fault find a problem like this. Step away for a second and it will come to you. Me i would look at the heads and cams nexts
Gotta get rid of that Tune its running Lean and Detonating you can hear it breaking up, Unfortunately driving around with the Exhaust Cam phaser screwed up for the first few days probably caused major issues right out of the gate on Cylinder 4 where the code was, Those Cam gears are not Rebuildable or Serviceable, When and engine blows throw them away, Probably Cylinder 4 again since that was the problem cylinder from first startup, Bearing or Ring land from over advanced timing and weak intermittent spark. Get that bulkhead connector straightened out to, Intermittent spark on a coil will cause major problems on these engines
I think that the problem started when you didn’t pack the oil pump. Looks to me, that you have an air lock from the oil pump, thus not supplying sufficient pressure to your avcs. Look in to priming the oil pump first, before taking it all a apart. ( refer to the oil control block / air locked )
This has never been an issue for anyone else, among the zillions of built subarus installing them dry, myself included. They build pressure within several seconds of dry cranking every time when no separate issue is contributing.
@@evanchi9460 Normally yes. However, as seen in previous video, Devin got no pressure while crancking only. He had to start it before he finally got some pressure.
@@chrish.538 Which is incredibly abnormal. Should've been a huge red flag. Wish there was an easier way to diagnose, but there's likely debris plugging one or more galleys.
I feel your frustration. I have owned 4 Subarus and will always have a soft spot in my heart for them. That being said, I sold my last STi and purchased a 2022 M240. So far, so good.
Damn I’m in the exact same dilemma right now , I have a 20 sti with 450whp and im torn between if I should keep modifying it or sell it and buy a 2021 Supra . How does the b58 drive and feel compared to the subie platform ?
The M240i definitely feels bigger and heavier, but also more solid and refined. It carries it's weight well, though. The B58 along with the ZF tranny is an absolute monster.
Looking back on this build I noticed how those pistons were very tight fitting in the bores, That very well can be the issue to especially with the noise being temp related as metal heats up it expands causing them to be even tighter.
I had a similar issue with my genesis 3.8. Had the heads built and after it kept throwing timing over advanced on passenger exhaust cam. After changing cam gears, solenoids, checking resistance in the solenoids and verifying timing 5 times, we decided to build the entire motor. Guess what same issue. Car sat in a corner for 2 years until I decided to just LSswap. Found out while pulling it all apart that the harness had a few broken wires in it.
Try to change the VVT AVCS Solenoid on top of the head. Not sure if the newer sti has this, but I have had my readings freak out on my 07 STi because one of mine was bad.
Devin in all the things you do in life you have to make mistakes ok and the fact the mistake made you learn awesome keep pushing my brother you inspired me alot with your builds
GT86- HI RPM after a while. 2012. Engine light comes on... Same issue??? Thoughts.. Cold engine make it fault sooner... Feels like fuel issue... Got the cricket in tha pump thou... Glad to see you still working with the SUBS
get a long block for less stress my subaru has iag 900 long block g30-900 turbo making 664whp 583tq and its pretty reliable only at 33psi ccan push it to 40 too
So i might be buggin...but when you were putting the head gasket on i thought i saw that is was blocking one of the oil passages...i may be wrong but i thought i saw it but didnt say anything...i might be bugging though... if im not bugging the gasket is on wrong...
I have a 2015 STI in my shop that has a fuel pressure drop at high rpm. Checked fuel basket, upgraded and hardwired fuel pump with new O rings , replaced FPR and checked for leaks and nothing fixed it. I hate STIs.
Try to locate the noise with a stethoscope from underneath the car to help locate the area of the noise, whether it’s left or right and closer to which parts, should help fix it
I think I had the same problem in my subbie it was the buckets and valve seats I believe in the heads but it wasn't necessarily knocking it just felt like the motor was choked up
I feel you with the Subarus man. I have a 13' hatch and in the past year I've had to get a new short block because of rod knock and most recently I just had to replace the turbo because the main seal had gone. Now it has an oil leak that's dripping on the transmission from the turbo side and can't figure out where it's coming from. Sigh* I am about one more problem popping up from getting a Honda Fit.
I have owned a 2011 sti sedan for almost 3 years without any problems, just did regular maintenance. For almost a year, I have a few reliability mods and a stage 1 and I’ve never ran into issues (but I don’t do the work myself, only competent professionals)…!
I feel you on that dealing with replacing my turbo as well. It’s easier to say what is t new at this point. I feel you on the fit but there’s too much love for the car to give up.
@@belvakurlof My brother has a FIT and the first time I drove it I was really impressed at how great it is. Comfort, MPG, reliability, room to stuff your friends and their moms and it looks good too. But I am too emotionally invested in my little hatch, I love it even though it isn't nice on my wallet. :(
Its amazing my current STi has 150,000kms and doesn't knock my first WRX had 310,000km have you work out you should not be stuffing with Subaru's engines all together with the 3 WRX's I did not knock
You need to get the scan tool and a oscilloscope to check if the computer is trying to activate the cam even a oil pressure transducer at the solidiond to see the pressure range. Check pine hollow diagnostic channel he could help without using the parts cannon
I would have had a stroke by now, it would have been "5 dollars gas please...in the back seat", great job keeping your cool, take a break, you will figure it out
It sounds like the wrong style header for the tune. Like an equal length when the car is expecting an unequal length. I'm only at 3/4 of the video playing so far, so I'm sure you've fixed it in the end, but that's what it sounds like to me on the video.
my guess is the Liam because when you unplug it it stopped. only way is to find the colour of wires at ecu end and then check resistance at vavle end.?
I forgot which belt brand it was, but one batch of one belt had markings on wrong spot by 1 or 2 teeth... Idk if it's the issue here, but figured to throw it out there.
I think the car just likes him working on it. Vvt systems are a pain to troubleshoot, this has to be frustrating. I wonder if the factory has a procedure for these types of problems. It will really suck if he has to pull the head and it turns out something in it is blocked.
this is why i sold my sti. 3400 rpms it would misfire cylinder 4 and we tried everything ended up being a wire hardness issue they come fucked from factory
I'd have Bobby Rev it to the knocking point and then wiggle that harness again. It's possible le the soli old is freaking out from a bad/loose connection and causing the phase issue.
which is why i sold my subaru and bought a mustang 5.0..... having a subaru is like having a toxic relationship, you want to leave but the sugar too sweet
Just had this issue on my new 5th Gen LGT build. It was the banjo bolt filter that was clogged.
u guys are f***king awesome, it takes courage and patient to be able to go back and forth and try to find the problems. I love the channel...
I reckon it's to do with the ECU cam timing.. I had the exactly same issue with my k20, unplug the solenoid the noise when away, only happened when hot, the issue I had was the ECU was demanding to much timing and causing the cam gears to shatter together, a simple plug in with the laptop and within 20 minutes it was sorted. 🤙🏼 Hope this helps bro
Not an expert but this also pops in my head. It may just be like a ECU tuning "error"
i was waiting for bader to say "well bud, theres your problem" lol
I think the for the next drop
We might need shirts that say
“Well bud, Theres your problem”
Lmao for real
The fact that the noise goes away when the solenoid is unplugged tells us that the issue lies in the system control itself. Solenoids are typically on,off, or Pulse Width Modulated = PWM. The solenoid is being pulsed open, letting oil pressure into the cam phaser to move the cam into the desired position. It's then rattling because it's either bleeding off that oil pressure too quickly allowing it to slap back, or oil pressure to the phaser itself is insufficient moving the cam away from the phaser just enough for a split sec and then it slaps back. If the oil feed is insufficient i would think the issue would get better or be less apparent with more RPM because they usually make higher oil pressure thus increasing flow but who knows. If you look closely at the access port the "bad" phaser is slower to respond relative to its counterpart. I've replaced quite a few cam phaser seals on ford ecoboosts for this exact issue. I'm a ford guy and no subaru expert but i'm 100% confident the issue is a bad seal or plugged galley. IDK where their phasers have seals but i'd check those first if it's easier then move onto a teardown for a plugged galley.
Drive the car and monitor avcs angle on all 4 cams....
Did u use new gears when u rebuild the engine? Did u clean the old ones and re assemble without a spare cam they can get misaligned quite easily......
Idk how you can be so patient with Subarus man. My respect to you for still tinkering with them
He fucked the Subaru up I've been driving an 05 Forester with 570whp stock motor with only upgraded 14mm studs and all the external reliability mods with a gt3576 going strong for 10years. But I can say I had an 02 with a billet block that kept it for only one year that kissed valves the wrong timing belt position was at fault the engine except the piston and the valve that Forged together was somehow still operational and drove it 30km to the mechanics shop back in 2008 miss that car
Its not the subaru.
@@thusmarshal8815 bro chill you have to learn somehow
Imagine what Rotary guys are going through
@@thusmarshal8815 post a video of the car
“Working on something fun”
Sounds like Devins ready to work on evo’s again 😄
Wrong size cam buckets after replacing the valve springs.Measure get new buckets
Update..... problem fixed, replaced left side oil control valve and assembly holder which is drivers side on the bottom of engine. Also replaced ground wires going to oil control valve left and right side because they were corroded bad. Now on my accessport avcs intake left/right read same, and avcs exhaust left/right read the same. Before avcs exhaust left was reading 0 sometimes jumping to 1 or 2. Cel has stayed off and car is running great.
Gotta love Bobby, dont sell all the Subaru's i love and need your SUBI content brotha it keeps me inspired. Evo all you like and others just never stop Subi . Aussie fan =) ]
Your diagnostic is spot on. Check that the banjo bolt "filter" is not clogged (if it is remove filter).
I had a similar issue, but with no diagnostic computer. My problem was a stuck AVCS actuactor/sensor. I needed a Subaru Master technician to find that issue.
You are correct you should of sent the Cam gears out to Outfront Motorsports or replaced them. You are giving a Subaru a worse name when your don't know crap about cam gears and YOU PULLed them apart. I nitrate all my crankshafts through a coating company. Not the crappy nitrate done by Subaru factory. Then use WPC treated Race bearings and the thing will last forever!. It it what Subaru Rally team does. Your Subarus are beautiful. Mad props on that
I think you’re correct about the plugged up oil Galley. the knocking could be the avcs gear slapping back and fourth. Same thing with the erratic cam position
had this happen to my hyperblue when i used 5w-30 for a month
What is the connection on oil
I used 5w-30 all the time nothing happen
@@djdavid2754 Pretty sure thats OEM spec oil so that would be silly to be the reason
I agree, however, after just going through a similar issue after a drivetrain swap on an earlier model (2006 with 04 drivetrain), figured I'd add that, at least on those models, sometimes a bad alternator can screw with cam sensor signals and cause a code and/or unstable avcs readings due to the sensor output getting a bit noisy. Not sure if they resolved this issue on later models, but on the earlier ones you could unplug the green connector on the alternator and if the problem resolved the issue was the alternator, so 10 second test and might be worth ruling out. Sometimes the ECU on those would fail in a way that would cause the same issue too.
In my case, the cam sensor sense wire was partially pulled out of the connector and making poor/intermittent contact, causing misfires, jumpy avcs readings, and a code. Car would only start with some throttle.
Yes Maybe porosity somewhere from factory casting.
I think 80% of us would have burnt it to the ground by now and or pulled out every last hair on our head. Keep up the patience dude! I'll keep watchin!
When the head shop cleaned the heads, did they remove the pressed in brass oil restrictors behind the allen plugs and clean them?
Did they return them to the correct positions, orientation, & depth?
It's definitely pressure/flow related.
Exhaust AVCS is the last thing to get oil in the heads
I feel your pain man. The rage is close to showing. I feel the same about mine. I don't even want to look at the car sometimes, which is no fun.
Every motor you build blows up
keep your head up DN...so asked a few friends with scoobs about your issue and one said there is a banjo bolt located under the air intake pipe that has a little filter inside that might be your problem. Check the little filter for damage or blockage. It's worth a try at this point.. Good luck🤙
I have an 06 and my driver's side banjo was filled with debris when I removed it, which I did right after I'm guessing it split open and filled my ocv with debris, causing it to stop working correctly, which is what led me to inspect it. Definitely a good thing to check! On the earlier cars, there were three. On is on turbo feed, another on passenger side top under fuel pressure regulator, and another on the driver's side on top. Id personally pull the filters on all three on any new-to-me WRX.
@@Currancchs 💯💯💪🏾
Change my mind definitely internal and plugged! Can't wait for Bobbie's evo build!
If I had Subie, still will ask you to Fix it, make it better. Your a Great Mechanic. Like the fast foward clip of you taking apart and putting back together stuff in the engine.
This makes me appreciate the simplicity of my SOHC EJ25. Not powerful at all, but gets me to work everyday. Hopefully you get it resolve, you've done so much work. This is painful...
Devin out here being a constant reminder of why I shouldn't buy the Subarus I've always wanted. You're a patient man.
? what they have done to the stock engine what else could have happened ......
They put 700hp on a stock engine what did u think was gonna happen
@@resilientproductions3893 this particular issue could have happened on a standard rebuild. Doesn't appear to be a result of any of the performance components.
@@resilientproductions3893 a primemotoring tuned sti, has 610 wheel has 31k miles and still going.
I’ve owned a WRX with 250k miles on it! drives fine! stage 1 300 hp!
I'll never understand why some people modify the crap out of their cars and then don't get it tuned properly this is exactly why they blow up
The amount of things i learn about a cars i don't own from you is insane! You will prevail!
I've always said you my friend like to fix cars until they break. Keep on keeping on.
Check the screen in the banjo for the feed line to the AVCS, it's super fine, and could get clogged after building a new motor, especially if you saw particles already.
Its should be mini oil filters(meshes) In solenoids oil gallerys, check it, or connectioron sensor, solenoids, maybe some of teeth on camshaft gear bended... Somehow
looks like you already tried replacing or cleaning all the AVCS Cam Sprockets and oil control valve (Avcs solenoid). try banjo bolt filter screens in the oil delivery tubing for both the AVCS and the turbocharger. Googled this. Then get in there and check for blockages, try remove ALL the screens.
Hey man Devin, cars can be so frustrating and rewarding as you know, why we have love/hate relationship with them lol, but on the flip side remember it's also providing us all with excellent content to watch which helps the channel, you are doing extract the right thing, walk away from it for a while, and take a break from it, move on to something else and give yourself some breathing space, thinking time, and research time. you got this bro.
try watching the avcs left and right while you tinker with the wiring harness like before.
4:43 This is why I love Subaru’s. In my opinion they look and sound great and have a great community behind it
Breaks all the time
@@culturemotived2190 A good majority of the time it’s due to lack of maintenance and/or owners who beat on their vehicles. There are people who come from a Honda platform and expect the same out of a Subaru. If you take care of them, it’ll take care of you
Bud I take my hat off for you for being so patient ,It’s not easy to fault find a problem like this. Step away for a second and it will come to you. Me i would look at the heads and cams nexts
I’ve been subbed for at least 4 or 5 years and I gotta say, Bobbi’s cool bro. I’m stoked for you.
Gotta get rid of that Tune its running Lean and Detonating you can hear it breaking up, Unfortunately driving around with the Exhaust Cam phaser screwed up for the first few days probably caused major issues right out of the gate on Cylinder 4 where the code was, Those Cam gears are not Rebuildable or Serviceable, When and engine blows throw them away, Probably Cylinder 4 again since that was the problem cylinder from first startup, Bearing or Ring land from over advanced timing and weak intermittent spark. Get that bulkhead connector straightened out to, Intermittent spark on a coil will cause major problems on these engines
I think that the problem started when you didn’t pack the oil pump. Looks to me, that you have an air lock from the oil pump, thus not supplying sufficient pressure to your avcs. Look in to priming the oil pump first, before taking it all a apart. ( refer to the oil control block / air locked )
I second the motion
This has never been an issue for anyone else, among the zillions of built subarus installing them dry, myself included. They build pressure within several seconds of dry cranking every time when no separate issue is contributing.
@@evanchi9460 Normally yes. However, as seen in previous video, Devin got no pressure while crancking only. He had to start it before he finally got some pressure.
@@chrish.538 Which is incredibly abnormal. Should've been a huge red flag. Wish there was an easier way to diagnose, but there's likely debris plugging one or more galleys.
You should be careful with the timing belt tensioner they loose pressure after on and off
Time to pull the motor and double check all the work and specs slowly.
I feel your frustration. I have owned 4 Subarus and will always have a soft spot in my heart for them. That being said, I sold my last STi and purchased a 2022 M240. So far, so good.
Damn I’m in the exact same dilemma right now , I have a 20 sti with 450whp and im torn between if I should keep modifying it or sell it and buy a 2021 Supra . How does the b58 drive and feel compared to the subie platform ?
The M240i definitely feels bigger and heavier, but also more solid and refined. It carries it's weight well, though. The B58 along with the ZF tranny is an absolute monster.
Check the seals on your injector, happens to cause misfires at low throttle inputs.
Try replacing the up stream o2 sensor
Mine was doing the same thing
Cleaned maf sensor and went away 👌👌
Looking back on this build I noticed how those pistons were very tight fitting in the bores, That very well can be the issue to especially with the noise being temp related as metal heats up it expands causing them to be even tighter.
I had a similar issue with my genesis 3.8. Had the heads built and after it kept throwing timing over advanced on passenger exhaust cam. After changing cam gears, solenoids, checking resistance in the solenoids and verifying timing 5 times, we decided to build the entire motor. Guess what same issue. Car sat in a corner for 2 years until I decided to just LSswap. Found out while pulling it all apart that the harness had a few broken wires in it.
Definitely check the filter inside the AVCS solenoids they are very notorious for blowing up and clogging it. Worth a shot to look at
Try to change the VVT AVCS Solenoid on top of the head. Not sure if the newer sti has this, but I have had my readings freak out on my 07 STi because one of mine was bad.
those are intake tho
Time for a K24 Turbo swap.
This is honestly the closest I’ll ever come to some bad ass SUBI & EVO builds so keep it coming 💪🏼
Devin in all the things you do in life you have to make mistakes ok and the fact the mistake made you learn awesome keep pushing my brother you inspired me alot with your builds
I wish I had half the patience you have. Respect!
devin dont give up bro!!!I'm sure you will fix it
There’s a filter on one of the banjo bolts for the avcs, if the issue is a clog it would be a good idea to check those bolts and clean that line too
I admire the persistence. I would not have enough patience to look for the reason ... probably the car would already be up for sale in my case
Ahhh, love the 60fps. When the footage goes to 24fps, it makes me remember how much I hate all the 24fps youtube content (looking at you Bader, haha!)
GT86- HI RPM after a while. 2012. Engine light comes on... Same issue??? Thoughts..
Cold engine make it fault sooner... Feels like fuel issue... Got the cricket in tha pump thou...
Glad to see you still working with the SUBS
I have exactly the same issue , and it is driving me crazy , I love your videos and I learned alot from it , god bless
get a long block for less stress my subaru has iag 900 long block g30-900 turbo making 664whp 583tq and its pretty reliable only at 33psi ccan push it to 40 too
Do the oil lines that run from the solenoids to the cams have filters in the banjo bolts? I know the jdm motors do and they get plugged up...
So i might be buggin...but when you were putting the head gasket on i thought i saw that is was blocking one of the oil passages...i may be wrong but i thought i saw it but didnt say anything...i might be bugging though... if im not bugging the gasket is on wrong...
Worst case. Check the woodruff keyway on the cam itself. The key should be tight without any play.
I have a 2015 STI in my shop that has a fuel pressure drop at high rpm. Checked fuel basket, upgraded and hardwired fuel pump with new O rings , replaced FPR and checked for leaks and nothing fixed it. I hate STIs.
Try to locate the noise with a stethoscope from underneath the car to help locate the area of the noise, whether it’s left or right and closer to which parts, should help fix it
I think I had the same problem in my subbie it was the buckets and valve seats I believe in the heads but it wasn't necessarily knocking it just felt like the motor was choked up
And the Subaru theme song of the day is... "KNOCK KNOCK KNOCKIN ON HEAVENS DOOR"
I feel you with the Subarus man. I have a 13' hatch and in the past year I've had to get a new short block because of rod knock and most recently I just had to replace the turbo because the main seal had gone. Now it has an oil leak that's dripping on the transmission from the turbo side and can't figure out where it's coming from. Sigh* I am about one more problem popping up from getting a Honda Fit.
I have owned a 2011 sti sedan for almost 3 years without any problems, just did regular maintenance. For almost a year, I have a few reliability mods and a stage 1 and I’ve never ran into issues (but I don’t do the work myself, only competent professionals)…!
U just have shitty luck bro
Plus one for buying a fit
I feel you on that dealing with replacing my turbo as well. It’s easier to say what is t new at this point. I feel you on the fit but there’s too much love for the car to give up.
@@belvakurlof My brother has a FIT and the first time I drove it I was really impressed at how great it is. Comfort, MPG, reliability, room to stuff your friends and their moms and it looks good too. But I am too emotionally invested in my little hatch, I love it even though it isn't nice on my wallet. :(
Devin’s dedication and love for cars is insane
Its amazing my current STi has 150,000kms and doesn't knock my first WRX had 310,000km have you work out you should not be stuffing with Subaru's engines all together with the 3 WRX's I did not knock
Check for a broken camshaft lip when you pull down the engine.
I thought you weren’t supposed to hit boost while breaking in the new block.
Not sure how you guys keep blowing up motors. Its def not the subbie.
You need to get the scan tool and a oscilloscope to check if the computer is trying to activate the cam even a oil pressure transducer at the solidiond to see the pressure range. Check pine hollow diagnostic channel he could help without using the parts cannon
I would have had a stroke by now, it would have been "5 dollars gas please...in the back seat", great job keeping your cool, take a break, you will figure it out
Prolly that oil pump you were saying you didn’t prep :(
I like what you do because it’s a good way of learning without having to deal with it. Lol
He’s suffering for our gain of knowledge. Doing the community a service. 😂
Engine might actually be knocking too it went through a lot during the whole start up and break in due to it not running 100%
It sounds like the wrong style header for the tune. Like an equal length when the car is expecting an unequal length. I'm only at 3/4 of the video playing so far, so I'm sure you've fixed it in the end, but that's what it sounds like to me on the video.
my guess is the Liam because when you unplug it it stopped. only way is to find the colour of wires at ecu end and then check resistance at vavle end.?
I forgot which belt brand it was, but one batch of one belt had markings on wrong spot by 1 or 2 teeth... Idk if it's the issue here, but figured to throw it out there.
i would check that your fuel can is full and with a box of matches burn it to the ground
Ready for Supra content 🥵
*BMW.
Both proficient and efficient would be acceptable in that sentence Dev lol but I like how you wanted to get it right
Oil galley hole on the front cam cap plugged from rtv?
I mean it´s really not easy to make a good engine tuning, so that it runs for a long time without problems.
did you check the knock sensor? when you take off intake stuff it should be demaged, because of one poor wire. sorry for my English
Oil pump is bad!! Not enough pressure. Oil gets warm, thins out and pressure drops. Not enough pressure for the avcs to work properly…
I think the car just likes him working on it. Vvt systems are a pain to troubleshoot, this has to be frustrating. I wonder if the factory has a procedure for these types of problems. It will really suck if he has to pull the head and it turns out something in it is blocked.
this is why i sold my sti. 3400 rpms it would misfire cylinder 4 and we tried everything ended up being a wire hardness issue they come fucked from factory
I'd have Bobby Rev it to the knocking point and then wiggle that harness again.
It's possible le the soli old is freaking out from a bad/loose connection and causing the phase issue.
which is why i sold my subaru and bought a mustang 5.0..... having a subaru is like having a toxic relationship, you want to leave but the sugar too sweet
Best explanation between a Subaru and it’s owner 😂
Did you remove or inspect/clean the filters from the AVCS and turbo banjo bolts?
I can see how defeated you are. Keep fighting buddy
Or something with the cam magnet where the cam sensor picks up the rotation
If it only happens when warm, try running cold water over various parts including the wiring harness when it's running and see if the problem changes.
Bobbi is literally any car guys dream girl straight up, love the contents Devin keep it up
we know you will figure it out, your devin, you always figure it out. have a couple days off and do some research man. youll get it 100%
My best guess it’s in the head assembly, maybe some piston slap good videos though 🙌🏼
Maybe Im just talking BS and sorry if Im mistaken, but for a new engine isnt it to harsh the treatment: 5K RPM, full acceleration?
Just keep at it dude youll get there, awesome work 👌
Subaru is kicking your ass Devin. Bring back a EVO 👍🏻
Facts
That Subi wave was it😊😊😊
I can believe that🤣😭 damn Subaru boys going broke for under 100 miles. Good work boys
Subie life 🤙
I would try getting a new base map from bader just to see if it fixes it.
Love the vids and builds! I have a 2018 that is throwing 6 codes and was wondering if you could give me some advice. P000A,B,C,D and P0014 and 24