Thanks for the tip Dave M. I just completed this job without a lift using this method. It does work but in hindsight without a lift working on jackstands it probably would have been easier to just remove the front diff. Here are some things I learned in the process for anyone looking to do this. 1. I lifted the engine from the stud on the front between the alternator and ac compressor. I was able to slip a chain link on the end and then threaded a nut on it so it wouldn't slip off 2. You do not need to completely remove the the motor mount through-bolts, they can just be loosened enough to slip out of the groove they rest in. The driver side is a pain to get to, you'll need an 18mm swivel socket 3. Once the pan bolts are removed the pan and gasket will come right off the block but you are going to have to fight with the gasket to remove it from the pan. I was able to wedge a putty knife in between the two and work my way around slowly. This probably took close to an hour so be patient. 4. I recommend getting new oil pan bolts, I had 2 of mine break while reassembling and it was a major pain to drill them out with the diff in the way
which bolts are the motor mount through-bolts? The long one that goes through the motor mount? or the 4 that go into the block? I am currently doing this job on ramps and have an engine hoist on the same bolt. Thanks
Dave thank you for your video, after reading many procedures online and watching other UA-cam videos. I tried your way and I was done replacing the pan in a matter of hours. I loosen the motor mount bolts, dropped the two subframe bolts. Lifted the engine underneath with floor jack and 2x4 (on the engine between pan and crank) lifted maybe 2 or 3 inches. And hooyah it came right out, just as you said…… this way is smarter with less work. 2012 Liberty 3.7
Very good video! The 2 motor mount boldts I did loosen and cut 2 wood wedges where the lower 2 boldts were and pounded them in too get that bar low enough to for the oil pan to clear for removal it worked great! Then a crowbar to remove the wood wedges.
Just cut the cross member. Drop pan.spot weld cross member back pan can be removed in less than 30min. Crossmember is stiff so your alignment will not change when you cut the cross member
How do test my oil pump? Or where should I start before assuming I have a bad oil pump? I have enough oil, good oil sending unit. What's the steps and procedure that I should follow? Thank very much for your video! Very helpful.
@@davejames2015good luck…. It was a nightmare. I ended up having to loosen the engine mount bolts on each side while using my engine hoist to pick the engine up high enough with the cradle down to get enough clearance. The engine mounts are slotted so you don’t have to take the bolts out completely.
Can you not just completely drop that sub frame section and avoid lifting the motor ? I really didn’t want to bring mine to a shop if I could help it. I see the license plate is Fayetteville New York ? I live right around there i know this video is old but if you’re in the area would you mind giving me a quote to change mine ? Lol
hey I recently got a 2008 jeep liberty 3.7 liter and the oil cap says 5-30 I believe it has almost 130,000 miles on it so I got a 10w40 mobil 1 high milage full synth oil would that be too thick for it? its pretty hot here in the northeast right now and I dont want to put something too thin in the engine
Thanks for the tip Dave M. I just completed this job without a lift using this method. It does work but in hindsight without a lift working on jackstands it probably would have been easier to just remove the front diff. Here are some things I learned in the process for anyone looking to do this.
1. I lifted the engine from the stud on the front between the alternator and ac compressor. I was able to slip a chain link on the end and then threaded a nut on it so it wouldn't slip off
2. You do not need to completely remove the the motor mount through-bolts, they can just be loosened enough to slip out of the groove they rest in. The driver side is a pain to get to, you'll need an 18mm swivel socket
3. Once the pan bolts are removed the pan and gasket will come right off the block but you are going to have to fight with the gasket to remove it from the pan. I was able to wedge a putty knife in between the two and work my way around slowly. This probably took close to an hour so be patient.
4. I recommend getting new oil pan bolts, I had 2 of mine break while reassembling and it was a major pain to drill them out with the diff in the way
Thanks !
which bolts are the motor mount through-bolts? The long one that goes through the motor mount? or the 4 that go into the block? I am currently doing this job on ramps and have an engine hoist on the same bolt. Thanks
Dave thank you for your video, after reading many procedures online and watching other UA-cam videos. I tried your way and I was done replacing the pan in a matter of hours. I loosen the motor mount bolts, dropped the two subframe bolts. Lifted the engine underneath with floor jack and 2x4 (on the engine between pan and crank) lifted maybe 2 or 3 inches. And hooyah it came right out, just as you said…… this way is smarter with less work. 2012 Liberty 3.7
Very good video! The 2 motor mount boldts I did loosen and cut 2 wood wedges where the lower 2 boldts were and pounded them in too get that bar low enough to for the oil pan to clear for removal it worked great! Then a crowbar to remove the wood wedges.
Thank you for this video saved me and a lot of time and stress
Just cut the cross member. Drop pan.spot weld cross member back pan can be removed in less than 30min. Crossmember is stiff so your alignment will not change when you cut the cross member
How do test my oil pump? Or where should I start before assuming I have a bad oil pump?
I have enough oil, good oil sending unit.
What's the steps and procedure that I should follow?
Thank very much for your video! Very helpful.
What’s the neat little trick to getting the pan unstuck from the windage tray/ gasket...... I have been fighting with mine for the last 4hours.....
Haha I've been doing the same
@@davejames2015good luck…. It was a nightmare. I ended up having to loosen the engine mount bolts on each side while using my engine hoist to pick the engine up high enough with the cradle down to get enough clearance. The engine mounts are slotted so you don’t have to take the bolts out completely.
@jarrid.b ya I'm going to pull the front diff
Thanks for the tip, Dave. Did you loosen the motor mounts?
Mark of a Champion sorry so late, they were total unbolted
Can you not just completely drop that sub frame section and avoid lifting the motor ? I really didn’t want to bring mine to a shop if I could help it. I see the license plate is Fayetteville New York ? I live right around there i know this video is old but if you’re in the area would you mind giving me a quote to change mine ? Lol
where did you lift motor from? just the front of motor. thanks
hey I recently got a 2008 jeep liberty 3.7 liter and the oil cap says 5-30 I believe it has almost 130,000 miles on it so I got a 10w40 mobil 1 high milage full synth oil would that be too thick for it? its pretty hot here in the northeast right now and I dont want to put something too thin in the engine
My '08 cap says 5w-20. I would only run 5w-20 or 5w-30.
3.7 litre.
3.7
or u dont get one of these
The whisper was awkward..