For folks who want to give oil paints a try but are maybe intimidated by the high price tag of artist colors: Cheap oil paints are still great for dirty oil washes and weathering. Because the pigments are so large, they won't give you a nice clean look, but you can pick up a starter set with 24 colors for maybe around $20 and give it a try. Grab that, some gamblin, and then slowly fill out with artist colors as you become more comfortable with oils. My favorite quick painting method right now has to be an airbrush zenithal followed by some transparent acrylics (Contrast and speedpaints will work well for this as well), then an oil wash, and finally some unthinned oils for cleanup and highlights.
Always love to see the use of oil paints. It's interesting to see how you use them as opposed to some of the others I watch that use oils a lot. Keep up the great work!
@@DonSuratos Yeah I really like Gamblin, I think my favorite though are Williamsburg. They are very pigmented, so a bit more expensive. Also, you have to be more strategic about how you use them with minis, as they can stain more with that higher pigmentation.
You're a trend setter brother! I cant promise anything, but I plan on becoming some kind of member very soon; I hope it helps, even in a small way. Prayers and love for your family.
So glad to see Saint-Petersburg brand "Nevskaya Palitra" are used so far around the globe! Also, while they maintain "LADOGA" series which is middle-range, all pro oil painters (not minis tho) tell that top line "MASTER-CLASS" is a comparable to all top brands but priced way lower. If you interested, Fesechko and Kanaev paints with oils (and sometimes without acrylic underpainting) at top level of miniature painting.
For anyone wanting to try oils but doesn’t like the thought of dealing with solvents, I highly recommend using Water Soluble Oils. All the benefits without the smell/toxicity.
Awesome video. I'm just about to embark on painting a full army where I based with acrylics and then did the big colors with oils for blending. I did a couple of test models and it came out ok but this really showed me how to do it better, thanks!
+100 looking forward to seeing more oil painting techniques, really linking your content! Would be cool to see a technique like this on something like GW Gellerpox Infected 🎉
Great video, I am slowly (too slowly) teaching myself oil painting for miniatures and also love Gamblin paints, but had not heard of FastMatte line. It seems they discontinued them in 2020 except for white. However, I think for the equivalent you could mix a little Galkyd in with the regular paint line.
Hi Don! Great video! I have purchased oil paints after watching your video. I have a question. Do you thin your oil paints to Ink consistency for glazing?
@Don Absolutely loved finding this but had a couple of questions: first have you tried using oils for the underpainting? And the second is have you considered a colored underpainting such as with brown tones or greens? I've been chasing a particular look in my mind for a while to try and emulate the Dutch baroque period on my minis because I have two brain cells and both lack sense so I thought I'd ask as my search for knowledge has been coming up a bit short on the whole idea.
@@DonSuratos I have 1 Redgrass wet pallet (they are fantastic!), but I have noticed in your videos, it looks like are using more than one, which I found very interesting. I am curious to know if folks use more than one when they are working on a project.
@@aslbaron1 I see. I use them depending on the project bro. The smaller ones for quick touch ups or finishing touches. The new studio XL for bigger projects. And the old XL with the glass palette for dry brushing and oil painting. 😊
What you (and other tutorials) said about oils is pretty much the opposite of what I've found after actually trying them out on two large minis this week. Watched a ton of tutorials and expected to love it. Instead I found that while they blend easy, they go on splotchy looking even when being careful to try to be thin over thick etc... unless diluted to nearly a wash. If you blend them just a tiny bit too much all the color mixes and turns to a muddy meh look and/or leaving a fuzzy texture, ruining the work you already did. This made them super stressful to work with as at any moment you could take something from good, to bad with just a touch. They stay wet for so long that this can still happen hours later or even the next day. So unless you wait a day doing, highlights is a huge pain in the ass, because your highlight color can still mix when you apply it, ruining the brighter color. Plus you might need to blend it a bit to keep it from looking like blotchy textured shit. Overall the learning curve seemed really steep for learning how you touch, paint, blend etc... without ruining them. Was expecting to love them, and had they worked like all tutorials say they do I would have, but found it a lot more work and time for a lesser result. I've got one last attempt planned to give it another try to change my mind though, so we'll see if I can click with it
Gamblin oil paints contains solvent. And Gamsol is also a solvent. All kind of solvents are EXTREMELY harmful for your health - and you definetly should warn your viewvers to take care of proper ventilation (most people just never care about it at all!). Also the binding of oils is WAY weaker than acrylic ones (cos acrylic medium is some kind of pretty strong polymer glue). Just look at the oil pictures in the museum - they are all full of crackings. So you colors on the model wil oils will definetly crack in time - espessially if you will use these models later in tabletop game. There are no such thing as free miracle in this world my friend - and oils is definetly not so easy short cut as you think :(
@@DonSuratos yes, but it also means that their binding is even weaker. Oil paint is weak by itself (cos oil is not a glue), and when you dellute it with solvent the paint serface became even weaker, which can cause cracking in time. Cos solvents destroys the molecular bonds in oil - which, as I said, are already too weak. It's not a big deal when you use water to dellute acrylics (which is bad actually) - cos glue medium in acrylic is very strong. For oils though, its pretty much a problem.
Unless you're painting in a hermetically sealed closet, adequate ventilation of a open window, fan or AC is more than enough. Barring eating the paint and solvents just being in their presence isn't going to kill you. As far as oil paintings in museums cracking...the Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci was painted in 1506, Girl with the Pearl Earring by Johannes Vermeer in 1665, Las Meninas by Diego Velázquez in 1665. You really think your oil painted Space Marine is going to be around in 500 years for people to comment on the paint cracking?
For folks who want to give oil paints a try but are maybe intimidated by the high price tag of artist colors: Cheap oil paints are still great for dirty oil washes and weathering. Because the pigments are so large, they won't give you a nice clean look, but you can pick up a starter set with 24 colors for maybe around $20 and give it a try. Grab that, some gamblin, and then slowly fill out with artist colors as you become more comfortable with oils.
My favorite quick painting method right now has to be an airbrush zenithal followed by some transparent acrylics (Contrast and speedpaints will work well for this as well), then an oil wash, and finally some unthinned oils for cleanup and highlights.
Awesome comment man. Thank you! Pinned!
Always love to see the use of oil paints. It's interesting to see how you use them as opposed to some of the others I watch that use oils a lot. Keep up the great work!
Oil paints are awesome! Messy but awesome. I just need to buy more Gamblins. Thanks for watching! 😊🎨🎨🎨
@@DonSuratos Yeah I really like Gamblin, I think my favorite though are Williamsburg. They are very pigmented, so a bit more expensive. Also, you have to be more strategic about how you use them with minis, as they can stain more with that higher pigmentation.
@@Sichuanbeef If they stain more, they are perfect for glazes then! Hmmm, I hope my art store has those. Will check! 😊🎨🎨🎨
Need more oil paint videos! Great work, Don
Thank you Harrison! Will do! 😊
Love to see more oils, thanks for great tutorial!
Will do bro! Thank you for watching! 😊
You're a trend setter brother!
I cant promise anything, but I plan on becoming some kind of member very soon; I hope it helps, even in a small way. Prayers and love for your family.
Oh Im not bro. 😬 But I do hope people find this video helpful or entertaining at the very least. 😊🎨🎨🎨
Great video love to see you using different paints and different techniques keep up the good work
Just exploring bro. Makes the hobby more fun. 😊🎨🎨🎨
Awesome video! I was looking for inspiration for how to paint my box and you did some amazing work
Thank you! 😊🎨🎨🎨
So glad to see Saint-Petersburg brand "Nevskaya Palitra" are used so far around the globe! Also, while they maintain "LADOGA" series which is middle-range, all pro oil painters (not minis tho) tell that top line "MASTER-CLASS" is a comparable to all top brands but priced way lower. If you interested, Fesechko and Kanaev paints with oils (and sometimes without acrylic underpainting) at top level of miniature painting.
Yea they are sooo reasonably priced! They dry slower than the Gamblins as expected. But they are very good highly recommended oil paints. 😊🎨🎨🎨
For anyone wanting to try oils but doesn’t like the thought of dealing with solvents, I highly recommend using Water Soluble Oils. All the benefits without the smell/toxicity.
Awesome video. I'm just about to embark on painting a full army where I based with acrylics and then did the big colors with oils for blending. I did a couple of test models and it came out ok but this really showed me how to do it better, thanks!
Oh what army are you painting?
@@DonSuratos Tyranids
Great content, keep up the good work
Thank you sir. 😊🎨🎨🎨
+100 looking forward to seeing more oil painting techniques, really linking your content!
Would be cool to see a technique like this on something like GW Gellerpox Infected 🎉
Gellerpox kill team! Now will need to find one. 😊🎨🎨🎨 Thanks for watching!
Great stuff friend 👏 👍
Thank you as always Mark! 😊
Great video, I am slowly (too slowly) teaching myself oil painting for miniatures and also love Gamblin paints, but had not heard of FastMatte line. It seems they discontinued them in 2020 except for white. However, I think for the equivalent you could mix a little Galkyd in with the regular paint line.
Gamsol is working fine and fast for me so far. Thinking of trying Liquin too. 😊
Awesome!
Thank you! 😊🎨🎨🎨
Keep it up man!!
Thank you Jesse! 😊🎨🎨🎨
@@DonSuratos your very welcome
Hi Don! Great video! I have purchased oil paints after watching your video. I have a question. Do you thin your oil paints to Ink consistency for glazing?
@Don Absolutely loved finding this but had a couple of questions: first have you tried using oils for the underpainting? And the second is have you considered a colored underpainting such as with brown tones or greens?
I've been chasing a particular look in my mind for a while to try and emulate the Dutch baroque period on my minis because I have two brain cells and both lack sense so I thought I'd ask as my search for knowledge has been coming up a bit short on the whole idea.
What kind of oil paint do you suggest? I assume oil paints usually have a shiny finish or are there ones that actually have a matte finish.
Gamblin FastMatte. They dry matte and fast.
nice thinking
😊 Thanks! 🎨🎨🎨
Cool
👍🏼🎨🎨🎨
I have a nice H&M’s airbrush but I usually choose to do stuff like this just because I hate cleaning my airbrush lmao
H&M? HobbyMate?
Don - Just curious, how many wet pallets do you have/use?
Oh… I have 4 Redgrass wet palettes bro. Why?
@@DonSuratos I have 1 Redgrass wet pallet (they are fantastic!), but I have noticed in your videos, it looks like are using more than one, which I found very interesting. I am curious to know if folks use more than one when they are working on a project.
@@aslbaron1 I see. I use them depending on the project bro. The smaller ones for quick touch ups or finishing touches. The new studio XL for bigger projects. And the old XL with the glass palette for dry brushing and oil painting. 😊
What you (and other tutorials) said about oils is pretty much the opposite of what I've found after actually trying them out on two large minis this week.
Watched a ton of tutorials and expected to love it. Instead I found that while they blend easy, they go on splotchy looking even when being careful to try to be thin over thick etc... unless diluted to nearly a wash. If you blend them just a tiny bit too much all the color mixes and turns to a muddy meh look and/or leaving a fuzzy texture, ruining the work you already did. This made them super stressful to work with as at any moment you could take something from good, to bad with just a touch. They stay wet for so long that this can still happen hours later or even the next day. So unless you wait a day doing, highlights is a huge pain in the ass, because your highlight color can still mix when you apply it, ruining the brighter color. Plus you might need to blend it a bit to keep it from looking like blotchy textured shit. Overall the learning curve seemed really steep for learning how you touch, paint, blend etc... without ruining them.
Was expecting to love them, and had they worked like all tutorials say they do I would have, but found it a lot more work and time for a lesser result.
I've got one last attempt planned to give it another try to change my mind though, so we'll see if I can click with it
Amazing painting skills, devastating accent.
window of 20-30 minutes?? More like 2-3 days for me
No bro… I am using Gamblin’s “Fast Matte”. 😊
@@DonSuratos Sadly it is not sold since 2021
I've used Cobra waterbased oils, 2 months to dry ... wish I was joking.
Gamblin oil paints contains solvent. And Gamsol is also a solvent. All kind of solvents are EXTREMELY harmful for your health - and you definetly should warn your viewvers to take care of proper ventilation (most people just never care about it at all!). Also the binding of oils is WAY weaker than acrylic ones (cos acrylic medium is some kind of pretty strong polymer glue). Just look at the oil pictures in the museum - they are all full of crackings. So you colors on the model wil oils will definetly crack in time - espessially if you will use these models later in tabletop game. There are no such thing as free miracle in this world my friend - and oils is definetly not so easy short cut as you think :(
Wow. But oil paintings on canvas are painted thickly. Have you watched the video? I painted the oils very thinly. 😅
@@DonSuratos yes, but it also means that their binding is even weaker. Oil paint is weak by itself (cos oil is not a glue), and when you dellute it with solvent the paint serface became even weaker, which can cause cracking in time. Cos solvents destroys the molecular bonds in oil - which, as I said, are already too weak. It's not a big deal when you use water to dellute acrylics (which is bad actually) - cos glue medium in acrylic is very strong. For oils though, its pretty much a problem.
Unless you're painting in a hermetically sealed closet, adequate ventilation of a open window, fan or AC is more than enough. Barring eating the paint and solvents just being in their presence isn't going to kill you.
As far as oil paintings in museums cracking...the Mona Lisa by Leonardo da Vinci was painted in 1506, Girl with the Pearl Earring by Johannes Vermeer in 1665, Las Meninas by Diego Velázquez in 1665. You really think your oil painted Space Marine is going to be around in 500 years for people to comment on the paint cracking?
@@clubjer yes my models will be in the Smithsonian and louvre
What is healthiest paints to use
Slapchop isn't a thing.
😱😱😱😅🤣😂