Caliper spreading tool and a good set of brakes pads for a good price. Brake pads at a good price Amazon.com amzn.to/3C3810w Amazon.ca amzn.to/3SmAwvX Caliper piston tool: Amazon.com amzn.to/333pX8Q Amazon.ca amzn.to/3nadUOH
I am so glad you actually put the size of the sockets for the tool and the job so many times you watch a video and they don't even give you the sizes of the socket so you have no idea what to do thank you very much great video
Well done and very helpful. Did this job on my '13 Santa Fe Sport yesterday. Useful tip on the rubber plug for the rotors! I would note that the bottom caliper bracket bolt (14mm) is challenging to get to. It sits inside a slot in the suspension and most 3/8" drive heads won't fit and the one that I have which did only allows a little turn before hitting the suspension. My ratcheting head box end was too big. Might be a good idea to saturate that bolt with penetrating oil before carrying on. Total time was 2 hours for both sides with more than 30 minutes consumed by those two bolts. Cheers!
Well done! I like that you took the time to describe the tools in detail as well as the procedure. If you aren't teaching professionally you should be.
That was a nice tutorial. For some DIY'rs: On a 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.0t: the bottom caliper bracket bolt is obstructed by the lower control arm. Just remove the lower control arm bolt and then wrench out the caliper bracket bolt. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack and an alignment bar may be useful to put the lower control arm bolt back in place: Torque at about 101-115 lb-ft.
@@fredconti8530 @GarageKing That lower bolt being obstructed by that lower control arm is just a dumb design indeed. It made what should be an easy brake job take so much longer. I have a 2018 Santa Fe Sport 2.4L by the way.
I hit this as well on my 2015. This comment (and the other that pointed it out) saved my sanity. Although I had a "fun" time getting to the lower caliper bolt. ... Okay, "fun" isn't the right word, but the one I want to use does start with the same two letters...
That is awesome !!! Thank you so much for the comment :). I do all my repair vids like this. So glad you enjoyed and thank you for the positive feedback. Enjoy the rest of your weekend :)
Nice editing. No time wasted on bolt turning. I also appreciate you specifying bolt head sizes. Saves me a little time. I'm about to do rear brakes on my 2010 Santa Fe and even though I've done hundreds of brakes jobs in my life, this is a first time for me on this vehicle. It's nice to know ahead of time if there are any difficulties on a job and this one looks pretty easy. What was the stuff you sprayed on the back of the pads before installing them? I usually just use some brake pad stop-squeak from a tube I've had for years.
Thanks for the comment. The spray is basically just a sticky stuff that holds the pads in place. Your brake stop-squeak will work just fine. Don't forget to lube the pins, that's a very important step. Also if you have lube great, if you are getting low I did come across this stuff a few months ago amzn.to/48UD3W3 and I swear its the best I have used. Safe for all rubber, and you can use it everywhere, so even as a stop squeal.
Great video, very informative and I like the way you do everything to the nth degree. Also like that you only use power tools to dismantle. Always good to get a feel for things by hand assembling on the Finish. Only thing I would have added would have been to uncork the power steering fluid reservoir and possibly draw out about 10 cc's of brake fluid if the reservoir is full to prevent from spilling when compressing the piston on the caliper. Definitely subscribing to your Channel
Thank you for the great comment, and you are right about brake fluid, I must admit that a few times there have been a few drips when I have pushed caliper pistons back in. It usually will only happen if someone has topped up thier brake fluid. If the fluid was never topped off then it would just return to its original position. Now if you want to get fancy LOL, and on high end cars what I do is open the caliper bleeder, then push the piston back..... then let it gravity bleed for about 10 seconds, and top up the master cylinder afterwards : )
Hey bro! Another great tutorial! Well explained in simple terms for someone like me to understand! Always learning something new here! Thanks for sharing and have a fantastic week! ❤️
Great video! We have too many cars that need to be brought back to life. If we were closer I would love to see you work on two of them. We have been working on one of them for the past six years, if not more doing a little at a time since it is a rebuild. Where are the orange gloves? Over and out to you, too!
I know the orange gloves :) I still have them, was just too lazy this time !!! If you lived closer I would say come by for sure and we would get your cars on the channel!!! More content is always better :) Thanks for the comment :)
Great video. Never a good idea to use an impact on the wheel lock key. Always break them by hand first and install by hand. You can and will break the key with an impact
I understand everything but, the blue spray! What is it? Is it just spray paint? And why? Is thus a step that needs to be followed? You spent a fairly good amount of ti.e showing that but zero explanation on what it is, or why...I'm confused
Hey Thanks for the comment, the blue spray is just a sticky spray that goes on the back on the pads. Its not necessary, but just good practice. It's to prevent brake squeal. You can buy it as a paste amzn.to/3j2xmAY I just bought the spray. amzn.to/3wsYkog Sorry about that.
Thanks so much for the comment. Yup rear brakes are good, these rear drum brake pad in this video is only used for the park brake, those rear brake drum shoes are not used for stopping, only used for the park brake. The pads in the caliper that I replaced are what is used for stopping. The only time you ever replace those rear brake shoes is if they are cracked, broken, or I have seen when they are missing !!!!
@@GarageKing I have a Honda 2012 Civic the rear brake are drum only but there are NO disc brake on the rear, so the Honda set up is totally different on the rear Hyundai ? from what I see on the video is this car have both disc and drum on the rear yes ????
@@shahnawazvlog6266 Hello, this car is considered to have disk brake ONLY. The drum part is for park brake only, not for stopping, the drum pads are very small and will not stop car. On your Honda Civic the rear drum brake is for stopping AND park brake, so it is used for both. Very different set up. I'm thinking of doing a rear drum brake video on a Honda Civic so people can see :)
I have a 2015 Santa Fe GLS. Back was hard as bottom bolt was in bracket that could only be removed by taking off a brace bar first. Getting that back in was a chore
Thanks for the informative video. I would love to know the name of the antiseize that you use, if possible please provide a link for the antiseize. Thanks a bunch!
Hi There, this is the silver one I use for steel on steel amzn.to/4be9JuG and for the sliders, and rear of pads this is my new best fav (I bought it about 2 months ago and love it - Its safe for all rubber) amzn.to/3WmMTwI
NO, but if someone kept topping up the fluid, then it will come out of the master cylinder. Its going to run down and drip on the ground. If someone did not top off the master cylinder then the fluid will just get pushed up. Its not a good idea to leave the cap off as you are going to forget it off, and the brake fluid will keep absorbing moisture from the air.
0:41 “that’s what I believe” That makes me wary of a tutorial- when someone doesn’t know a basic thing 5:59 why use antiseize when the silicone caliper grease that was already used will last a long time and not creep or make a mess?
Yes at the 0:41 I believed it had the inside shoes, and I was right, it did. Also at 5:59 antiseize is excellent as its exposed metal on metal (I did not use that on rubber parts). I don't know what you mean about "silicone caliper grease that was already used". I used proper pin grease NON-SILICONE - FYI its best to stay away from silicone as it can damage the rubber parts. At 0:41 I could have said its got the rear shoes, but this video was not a preplanned voice over so it was just me talking and being myself. You have nothing to fear, I have completed thousands of brake jobs in my service as a licensed red seal technician.
I had to clean rust off the rotor on our ‘17 Sport today, the caliper bracket bolts were insanely stupid on ours, the bottom one, one of the spindle bolts had to come out and move to allow access. At least I know for a brake change later haha
Yup, the Shoes are not for braking, they are the park brakes, so they are designed to hold the vehicle when parked, not stop the vehicle when moving. There are a few manufacturers that use this design and to be honest I'm not crazy about it.
Parts are going to cost me $200 and mechanic only wants $300 (including parts to do), even though this looks very easy... if things stick I think I am going to let the mechanic do it. GREAT VIDEO!
Mechanics labor charges for all four rotor and brake pads replacement, lowest is $800 here. This video saved me $$$. Thanks for the very detailed video.
Thank you for the great comment, I'm in Canada, and I just work out of my garage. I find a variety of vehicles to fix by working on friends vehicles. I am a licensed mechanic.
No reason to reface as they don't stop the vehicle when its in motion, they are simply there to hold the vehicle in place. These ones were in really good shape. No need to adjust either as when I did the brakes I pulled on the handbrake and it was ok, most of the time, like 99% they never need adjusting as the shoes never wear, they just eventually fall apart. Sorry I should have mentioned that part in the video. Great question.
@@GarageKing all good mate. I usually take the time to do it anyway. Something the customer feels and makes them feel like something was done as sadly they can’t really see a brake job. Like they see the shiny rotors but you get my point. Good vid none the less 🤙
Its like an anti-squeal, it gets sticky and is suppose to stop brake pad noise. Now I just use this amzn.to/48UD3W3 Its the best I have found, and it can go in all places, including lubricating the rubber components, it will not swell the rubber so very safe. It works great.
This instructional video doesn't work form my 2019 Santa Fe. The newer model has electric parking brakes. After watching several other videos, I learned that you can take apart the electric brake part and wind back the actuator. It took about 3 hours to do the first side, including watching videos and about 30 minutes for the second side.
You are 100% correct, you can see at the 6:45 mark I moved the rubber plug over to the new brake rotor. That is very important. I should have showed adjusting the park brake, sometimes its ok, but sometimes it needs a little adjustment, good catch !!!!
any good video on the adjustment or is it the same as most vehicles with this style parking brake? also, do you know the torque specs for the caliper bracket and caliper bolts?
Hey there, it was pad spray, it's sticky and holds the pads in place. It's getting hard to find. I'll be 100% honest here, in my new videos I use this amzn.to/48UD3W3 I love it, you can use it on rubber, as well as steel on steel, so its the one product fits all. Also its safe for all rubber so it won't swell the boots.
Most likely your brake rotors have run out, you could either machine the front rotors, but to be honest its probably more economical to just replace your front brake rotors.
Thanks for the comment, I do appreciate it. Those bolts can get tight and depending where you live I guess it can be hit and miss. Thanks for the comment :)
2018 Santa Fe, rear rotor and brake replacement. Parking brake causing a fair amount of resistance and grinding noise while rotating hub. Spun passenger side rear and resistance is much less, though has a similar grinding noise, have not yet replaced this side. Parking brake adjuster at it lowest setting. Any thoughts greatly appreciated, thanks!
Hey Thanks for the comment, 1st I know it sounds simple but make sure the parking brake is fully off. I'm not sure if you mean the NEW rotor is causing grinding, or if the old rotor coming off is causing grinding? If its the old rotor, that is a rust ridge that is built up on the inside of the rotor. If its the new rotor being too tight, most likely it could be the pads are not centred. This is actually quite common, and once you have the rotor off, use a screw driver to centre the pads so they are in the middle. Also if you are re-using the old rotors GRIND that rust ridge off !!!! New rotors won't have that problem. Another way to centre the pads (with the rotor on) is to push the parking brake firmly, and then release and the pads should come back to centre. If you need anything else just let me know ;)
Thanks so much for your reply! Appreciate the need to ask but the parking break is disengaged. The new rotors are binding and making a grinding noise, very difficult to turn even with the tire on. Parking break is electronic and seem to be operating correctly, have cycled on and off without issue. Pads for the parking break are free, moving and not displaying any obvious issues. Put everything together and drove vehicle, grinding noise did not minimize after about 1 mile. Took everything off and rotors inside drum showing the wear of the parking brake pad contact but not severe. I’m totally stumped😩
@@keithwahl3245 Thanks for the follow up, that makes things a bit easier to understand. Sometimes I have had brakes that have been a bit tight, it just happens, and most likely you are using aftermarket parts, which are not built to the same tolerances as factory parts (factory parts are usually quite a bit more) When you drove it around for a mile you should feel the wheel (the aluminum rim) and see if its warm compared to the fronts. It's a good way to tell if you have too much drag. If the rotor is really hot (don't burn yourself, but put your hand close so you can feel for heat) then there is a problem. If the rotor is hot, then double check the part #'s. I have had grinding after a brake job that turned out to be a slightly bent backing plate, caliper pins that had a bit too much grease and wont bottom, pads that are too tight in the caliper sliders etc. So I have seen a lot. The one thing you don't see is those park brakes hanging up??? You just don't see that happening. I'm wondering if the cable is somehow not retracting all the way. I know the electronic motor is releasing them, but are they retracting fully? If you have a big clamp you could try applying a little pressure to the park brake pads to see if you can push them together?
Thanks for all of your insight! After your previous message I looked at the back of the new rotor and saw where the rotor was contacting the dust plate at the hub. You are dead on regarding the aftermarket parts! With some “gentle” massaging of the dust plate all is well. Can’t tell you how much your comments helped! Happy new year!
@@keithwahl3245 That is awesome, and it makes me feel good that I could actually help !!!! Happy New Year to you as well, and enjoy those new brakes !!!!! If you ever need any other mechanical advice you know how to find me :)
I took my 2015 santa fe to a hyundai dealer who told me that I needed to pay over $2300 to replace all the calipers (they said they were all practically seized), brake pads, and rotors. I was told basically not to drive my car until they had all of that replaced because it was extremely unsafe. seemed a little fishy to me since ive never had any issues with the brakes before with unusual sounds or any issues with breaking in the first place. and I want to just try to replace them myself as a DIY kind of project. how would I know if i need to replace the rotors? or can I just replace the brake pads themselves?
Hey there and thanks for the comment. I do find it odd that all 4 calipers on a 2015 would be sized up. Its probably the sliders and they need to spend some time with them. As for the rotors if your brake pedal was vibrating/pulsating when you are stopping then replace them. If they are rusted up on the contact area (in the middle where the pad contacts) then replace them - usually this is on the back side of the rotor. I would get a price on aftermarket rotors, sometimes they are pretty cheap and its just good to do them if there is any question. The one thing I would really advise you to do, and not sure If I showed it thoroughly in this video is to LUBE THOSE SLIDE PINS, that is the #1 cause of premature brake wear. Here is the video for the front ua-cam.com/video/EIAh6JxAsyI/v-deo.html
@@GarageKing hey thanks for your reply! i really appreciate it. and no there is no sounds or vibrations when I brake. and the rotors are rust free where the pads engage them. thanks again
If you did not replace the rotors, it could be rust from the rotors. A very common issue I see is the steel backing plate gets bent very slightly during the job. To fix it you can just bend it back with your hand, if you have the alloy wheels you may be able to just reach through and push it back away from the rotor. If you have grinding in the morning (but goes away after a bit) that could be the pad material and there is no way to fix that. Also make sure the brake pad slides that the pads ride on are properly installed.
Hey there and thanks for the comment. The bolt specs vary between 2013 and 2017, but they are close. The big bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the suspension average 50 ft/lbs and the small bolt to secure the caliper to the caliper bracket averages 20 ft/lbs.
Well that sucks.... I don't know why they would have done that. Maybe a cheaper brand? I hope the old ones were reusable so you didn't have to run back to the parts store.
You are correct, it is rotor run out, high spots due to thickness variations, and imprinting. The problem is if I get very technical people make comments they just want to change their rotors and don’t care how it happened. It’s how to fix it fast. So I try to keep it simple and say “warp” as it’s a common term that everyone can relate to. If I said imprinting I would have to explain it and that would make the video longer. I’ll try to be a little more technical in my next brake video. You obviously know your stuff and that’s great to see :) thanks for the comment because you are probably not the only one thinking this. I do appreciate the comment. Thanks :)
@@papabits5721 Thanks very much !! I do appreciate that. I'm the type of guy that if I don't know I'll tell my viewers, and if I make a mistake I own up to it. The one thing I learned when positing videos is there are a lot of smart people who watch them, so honesty is always best !!! Thanks again and enjoy your day :)
Fair comment, but these vids are more for the do it yourself person. I havent reviewed the video but I was probably trying to draw attention to anything that can prevent a mistake.
Caliper spreading tool and a good set of brakes pads for a good price.
Brake pads at a good price
Amazon.com amzn.to/3C3810w
Amazon.ca amzn.to/3SmAwvX
Caliper piston tool:
Amazon.com amzn.to/333pX8Q
Amazon.ca amzn.to/3nadUOH
I am so glad you actually put the size of the sockets for the tool and the job so many times you watch a video and they don't even give you the sizes of the socket so you have no idea what to do thank you very much great video
Thanks very much for the comment, I do my best :)
Well done and very helpful. Did this job on my '13 Santa Fe Sport yesterday. Useful tip on the rubber plug for the rotors! I would note that the bottom caliper bracket bolt (14mm) is challenging to get to. It sits inside a slot in the suspension and most 3/8" drive heads won't fit and the one that I have which did only allows a little turn before hitting the suspension. My ratcheting head box end was too big. Might be a good idea to saturate that bolt with penetrating oil before carrying on. Total time was 2 hours for both sides with more than 30 minutes consumed by those two bolts. Cheers!
Hey Thanks for the great comment and happy Sunday to you !! You did pretty well at 2hrs with those bottom bolts, I know they are tough !!
I had the same issue with the fronts… like you say, challenging. It gets the grey matter working for sure
Glad that I’m not the only one who fought with those two bracket bolts!
Great video!
Well done! I like that you took the time to describe the tools in detail as well as the procedure. If you aren't teaching professionally you should be.
Aww thanks !!! Really appreciate the comment and you just made my day :)
I always learn new things, it's my first time to see the brake pad closely. Bolts really hold machines together!
Yup they do :) Appreciate the comment Shiyelia :)
That was a nice tutorial. For some DIY'rs: On a 2014 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.0t: the bottom caliper bracket bolt is obstructed by the lower control arm. Just remove the lower control arm bolt and then wrench out the caliper bracket bolt. Support the lower control arm with a floor jack and an alignment bar may be useful to put the lower control arm bolt back in place: Torque at about 101-115 lb-ft.
Thanks for the great comment, and I do appreciate that tip !!!! Thanks for that and happy Friday to you :)
Thank you, and what an awful design.
@@fredconti8530 @GarageKing That lower bolt being obstructed by that lower control arm is just a dumb design indeed. It made what should be an easy brake job take so much longer. I have a 2018 Santa Fe Sport 2.4L by the way.
I hit this as well on my 2015. This comment (and the other that pointed it out) saved my sanity. Although I had a "fun" time getting to the lower caliper bolt. ... Okay, "fun" isn't the right word, but the one I want to use does start with the same two letters...
Love the way you edited this. Everything was easy to see and follow.
That is awesome !!! Thank you so much for the comment :). I do all my repair vids like this. So glad you enjoyed and thank you for the positive feedback. Enjoy the rest of your weekend :)
Nice editing. No time wasted on bolt turning. I also appreciate you specifying bolt head sizes. Saves me a little time. I'm about to do rear brakes on my 2010 Santa Fe and even though I've done hundreds of brakes jobs in my life, this is a first time for me on this vehicle. It's nice to know ahead of time if there are any difficulties on a job and this one looks pretty easy. What was the stuff you sprayed on the back of the pads before installing them? I usually just use some brake pad stop-squeak from a tube I've had for years.
Thanks for the comment. The spray is basically just a sticky stuff that holds the pads in place. Your brake stop-squeak will work just fine. Don't forget to lube the pins, that's a very important step. Also if you have lube great, if you are getting low I did come across this stuff a few months ago amzn.to/48UD3W3 and I swear its the best I have used. Safe for all rubber, and you can use it everywhere, so even as a stop squeal.
Well done sir, great job, very explanatory - excellent job narrating and editing. Love the intermission music!
Thank you so much for the comment !!! I do appreciate it and try my best to educate, as well as provide a little bit of entertainment !!!
Great video! Very clear with what one has to do for this job, I like the summary of tools needed for the job as well!
Thanks Nish, appreciate the comment buddy !!!!
Great video, very informative and I like the way you do everything to the nth degree. Also like that you only use power tools to dismantle. Always good to get a feel for things by hand assembling on the Finish. Only thing I would have added would have been to uncork the power steering fluid reservoir and possibly draw out about 10 cc's of brake fluid if the reservoir is full to prevent from spilling when compressing the piston on the caliper. Definitely subscribing to your Channel
Thank you for the great comment, and you are right about brake fluid, I must admit that a few times there have been a few drips when I have pushed caliper pistons back in. It usually will only happen if someone has topped up thier brake fluid. If the fluid was never topped off then it would just return to its original position. Now if you want to get fancy LOL, and on high end cars what I do is open the caliper bleeder, then push the piston back..... then let it gravity bleed for about 10 seconds, and top up the master cylinder afterwards : )
Hey bro! Another great tutorial! Well explained in simple terms for someone like me to understand! Always learning something new here! Thanks for sharing and have a fantastic week! ❤️
Thanks so much !!!! I do appreciate the comment, and glad you enjoyed the video :)
Great video! We have too many cars that need to be brought back to life. If we were closer I would love to see you work on two of them. We have been working on one of them for the past six years, if not more doing a little at a time since it is a rebuild. Where are the orange gloves? Over and out to you, too!
I know the orange gloves :) I still have them, was just too lazy this time !!! If you lived closer I would say come by for sure and we would get your cars on the channel!!! More content is always better :) Thanks for the comment :)
Like 6! You are the man ! Looking so organised in your garage
Thank you and hope you are having a great Friday :)
It’s Sat for me now! Time to sleep!
@@TheUkuleleBug That is right LOL:) Its currently Friday lunch time here right now !!!! Have a great sleep :)
Great video. Never a good idea to use an impact on the wheel lock key. Always break them by hand first and install by hand. You can and will break the key with an impact
Good call, I was a bit quick there.
I understand everything but, the blue spray! What is it? Is it just spray paint? And why? Is thus a step that needs to be followed? You spent a fairly good amount of ti.e showing that but zero explanation on what it is, or why...I'm confused
Hey Thanks for the comment, the blue spray is just a sticky spray that goes on the back on the pads. Its not necessary, but just good practice. It's to prevent brake squeal. You can buy it as a paste amzn.to/3j2xmAY I just bought the spray. amzn.to/3wsYkog Sorry about that.
Well done. If you don't mind me asking, what are the Torq specs for those 14 mm bolts? Great video.
Thanks for the great comment, 58-72ft/lbs
Interesting to know some of the important aspects of having a car.
For sure, and thank you for the comment :)
11 like Great video down to the detail very clear instruction Useful video 👍👍👍👍👍👍 you do not replace the rear drum brake pads because it still good ?🌹
Thanks so much for the comment. Yup rear brakes are good, these rear drum brake pad in this video is only used for the park brake, those rear brake drum shoes are not used for stopping, only used for the park brake. The pads in the caliper that I replaced are what is used for stopping. The only time you ever replace those rear brake shoes is if they are cracked, broken, or I have seen when they are missing !!!!
@@GarageKing I have a Honda 2012 Civic the rear brake are drum only but there are NO disc brake on the rear, so the Honda set up is totally different on the rear Hyundai ? from what I see on the video is this car have both disc and drum on the rear yes ????
@@shahnawazvlog6266 Hello, this car is considered to have disk brake ONLY. The drum part is for park brake only, not for stopping, the drum pads are very small and will not stop car. On your Honda Civic the rear drum brake is for stopping AND park brake, so it is used for both. Very different set up. I'm thinking of doing a rear drum brake video on a Honda Civic so people can see :)
@@GarageKing Thank for your input and reply have a great week a head my friend until our next up load
I have a 2015 Santa Fe GLS. Back was hard as bottom bolt was in bracket that could only be removed by taking off a brace bar first. Getting that back in was a chore
Sorry to hear that. I know some of those bolts can be really tight. It's a pain when that happens, but glad you got through it.
Great vid man!
Thanks so much for the great comment !!!
Thanks for the informative video. I would love to know the name of the antiseize that you use, if possible please provide a link for the antiseize. Thanks a bunch!
Hi There, this is the silver one I use for steel on steel amzn.to/4be9JuG and for the sliders, and rear of pads this is my new best fav (I bought it about 2 months ago and love it - Its safe for all rubber) amzn.to/3WmMTwI
@@GarageKingthank you so much.
@@philipsteevee1128 Anytime and glad I could help
Before you compress the brakes do you need to open the bleeder valve or the lid to the brake container?
NO, but if someone kept topping up the fluid, then it will come out of the master cylinder. Its going to run down and drip on the ground. If someone did not top off the master cylinder then the fluid will just get pushed up. Its not a good idea to leave the cap off as you are going to forget it off, and the brake fluid will keep absorbing moisture from the air.
0:41 “that’s what I believe”
That makes me wary of a tutorial- when someone doesn’t know a basic thing
5:59 why use antiseize when the silicone caliper grease that was already used will last a long time and not creep or make a mess?
Yes at the 0:41 I believed it had the inside shoes, and I was right, it did. Also at 5:59 antiseize is excellent as its exposed metal on metal (I did not use that on rubber parts). I don't know what you mean about "silicone caliper grease that was already used". I used proper pin grease NON-SILICONE - FYI its best to stay away from silicone as it can damage the rubber parts. At 0:41 I could have said its got the rear shoes, but this video was not a preplanned voice over so it was just me talking and being myself. You have nothing to fear, I have completed thousands of brake jobs in my service as a licensed red seal technician.
Great video. Great job well done.❤
Thank you for the great comment !!
I had to clean rust off the rotor on our ‘17 Sport today, the caliper bracket bolts were insanely stupid on ours, the bottom one, one of the spindle bolts had to come out and move to allow access. At least I know for a brake change later haha
Hey thanks for the comment, and that lower bolt can be tight to get out !! Hope you are enjoying your weekend :)
Wait, so they used shoes AND brake pads in the rear brake design? Never see that before.
Yup, the Shoes are not for braking, they are the park brakes, so they are designed to hold the vehicle when parked, not stop the vehicle when moving. There are a few manufacturers that use this design and to be honest I'm not crazy about it.
Parts are going to cost me $200 and mechanic only wants $300 (including parts to do), even though this looks very easy... if things stick I think I am going to let the mechanic do it. GREAT VIDEO!
Thank you, and to be honest 100 to do it is fair, especially if things are straight forward (stuck sliders etc.) Appreciate the comment !!
Mechanics labor charges for all four rotor and brake pads replacement, lowest is $800 here. This video saved me $$$. Thanks for the very detailed video.
@@philipsteevee1128 Glad I could help out, and happy you saved a few bucks !!!
Great video. Where is your shop located? City and name of business
Thank you for the great comment, I'm in Canada, and I just work out of my garage. I find a variety of vehicles to fix by working on friends vehicles. I am a licensed mechanic.
Any reason you didn’t reface the handbrake shoes or adjust them?
No reason to reface as they don't stop the vehicle when its in motion, they are simply there to hold the vehicle in place. These ones were in really good shape. No need to adjust either as when I did the brakes I pulled on the handbrake and it was ok, most of the time, like 99% they never need adjusting as the shoes never wear, they just eventually fall apart. Sorry I should have mentioned that part in the video. Great question.
@@GarageKing all good mate. I usually take the time to do it anyway. Something the customer feels and makes them feel like something was done as sadly they can’t really see a brake job. Like they see the shiny rotors but you get my point. Good vid none the less 🤙
@@nicholascroft520 Thank you my friend !!
Good instruction here but don’t forget to clean the inside of the wheel. I ended up with loose wheel bolts after a few hundred miles.
Good call, thanks for the comment
What was the blue stuff you spray painted onto the back of the pads?
Its like an anti-squeal, it gets sticky and is suppose to stop brake pad noise. Now I just use this amzn.to/48UD3W3 Its the best I have found, and it can go in all places, including lubricating the rubber components, it will not swell the rubber so very safe. It works great.
@@GarageKing thank you!!
@@JT-LV No problem at all, good luck with the job, and take your time, no need to rush.
Did You just show some nascar on the side whilst You greased up the boots 😅3 years ago as well very original,
Thank you LOL, always trying to come up with new ideas to make the videos a little fun : )
This instructional video doesn't work form my 2019 Santa Fe. The newer model has electric parking brakes. After watching several other videos, I learned that you can take apart the electric brake part and wind back the actuator. It took about 3 hours to do the first side, including watching videos and about 30 minutes for the second side.
Very good to know and thanks for that. I did not realize they went to electric parking brake for the 2019. Thank you for that !!!
Always adjust the parking brakes when the rear rotors are replaced. Also move the rubber cap from the old rotor to the new.
You are 100% correct, you can see at the 6:45 mark I moved the rubber plug over to the new brake rotor. That is very important. I should have showed adjusting the park brake, sometimes its ok, but sometimes it needs a little adjustment, good catch !!!!
any good video on the adjustment or is it the same as most vehicles with this style parking brake? also, do you know the torque specs for the caliper bracket and caliper bolts?
Hi, what's the blue stuff you've put on the pads?? thx
Hey there, it was pad spray, it's sticky and holds the pads in place. It's getting hard to find. I'll be 100% honest here, in my new videos I use this amzn.to/48UD3W3 I love it, you can use it on rubber, as well as steel on steel, so its the one product fits all. Also its safe for all rubber so it won't swell the boots.
@@GarageKing thx bud
What if my steering wheel shakes when I’m braking at high speed?
Most likely your brake rotors have run out, you could either machine the front rotors, but to be honest its probably more economical to just replace your front brake rotors.
Very nice tutorial. I have to say those rotor bolts don’t come out as easy as the video makes it look. You won’t be taking them out by hand.
Thanks for the comment, I do appreciate it. Those bolts can get tight and depending where you live I guess it can be hit and miss. Thanks for the comment :)
2018 Santa Fe, rear rotor and brake replacement. Parking brake causing a fair amount of resistance and grinding noise while rotating hub. Spun passenger side rear and resistance is much less, though has a similar grinding noise, have not yet replaced this side. Parking brake adjuster at it lowest setting. Any thoughts greatly appreciated, thanks!
Hey Thanks for the comment, 1st I know it sounds simple but make sure the parking brake is fully off. I'm not sure if you mean the NEW rotor is causing grinding, or if the old rotor coming off is causing grinding? If its the old rotor, that is a rust ridge that is built up on the inside of the rotor. If its the new rotor being too tight, most likely it could be the pads are not centred. This is actually quite common, and once you have the rotor off, use a screw driver to centre the pads so they are in the middle. Also if you are re-using the old rotors GRIND that rust ridge off !!!! New rotors won't have that problem. Another way to centre the pads (with the rotor on) is to push the parking brake firmly, and then release and the pads should come back to centre. If you need anything else just let me know ;)
Thanks so much for your reply! Appreciate the need to ask but the parking break is disengaged. The new rotors are binding and making a grinding noise, very difficult to turn even with the tire on. Parking break is electronic and seem to be operating correctly, have cycled on and off without issue. Pads for the parking break are free, moving and not displaying any obvious issues. Put everything together and drove vehicle, grinding noise did not minimize after about 1 mile. Took everything off and rotors inside drum showing the wear of the parking brake pad contact but not severe. I’m totally stumped😩
@@keithwahl3245 Thanks for the follow up, that makes things a bit easier to understand. Sometimes I have had brakes that have been a bit tight, it just happens, and most likely you are using aftermarket parts, which are not built to the same tolerances as factory parts (factory parts are usually quite a bit more)
When you drove it around for a mile you should feel the wheel (the aluminum rim) and see if its warm compared to the fronts. It's a good way to tell if you have too much drag. If the rotor is really hot (don't burn yourself, but put your hand close so you can feel for heat) then there is a problem. If the rotor is hot, then double check the part #'s. I have had grinding after a brake job that turned out to be a slightly bent backing plate, caliper pins that had a bit too much grease and wont bottom, pads that are too tight in the caliper sliders etc. So I have seen a lot. The one thing you don't see is those park brakes hanging up??? You just don't see that happening. I'm wondering if the cable is somehow not retracting all the way. I know the electronic motor is releasing them, but are they retracting fully? If you have a big clamp you could try applying a little pressure to the park brake pads to see if you can push them together?
Thanks for all of your insight! After your previous message I looked at the back of the new rotor and saw where the rotor was contacting the dust plate at the hub. You are dead on regarding the aftermarket parts! With some “gentle” massaging of the dust plate all is well. Can’t tell you how much your comments helped! Happy new year!
@@keithwahl3245 That is awesome, and it makes me feel good that I could actually help !!!! Happy New Year to you as well, and enjoy those new brakes !!!!! If you ever need any other mechanical advice you know how to find me :)
I took my 2015 santa fe to a hyundai dealer who told me that I needed to pay over $2300 to replace all the calipers (they said they were all practically seized), brake pads, and rotors. I was told basically not to drive my car until they had all of that replaced because it was extremely unsafe. seemed a little fishy to me since ive never had any issues with the brakes before with unusual sounds or any issues with breaking in the first place. and I want to just try to replace them myself as a DIY kind of project. how would I know if i need to replace the rotors? or can I just replace the brake pads themselves?
Hey there and thanks for the comment. I do find it odd that all 4 calipers on a 2015 would be sized up. Its probably the sliders and they need to spend some time with them. As for the rotors if your brake pedal was vibrating/pulsating when you are stopping then replace them. If they are rusted up on the contact area (in the middle where the pad contacts) then replace them - usually this is on the back side of the rotor. I would get a price on aftermarket rotors, sometimes they are pretty cheap and its just good to do them if there is any question. The one thing I would really advise you to do, and not sure If I showed it thoroughly in this video is to LUBE THOSE SLIDE PINS, that is the #1 cause of premature brake wear. Here is the video for the front ua-cam.com/video/EIAh6JxAsyI/v-deo.html
Oh and yes, you are fine to replace just the brake pads as long as you can get those caliper pins sliding and the rotors are in good shape :)
@@GarageKing hey thanks for your reply! i really appreciate it. and no there is no sounds or vibrations when I brake. and the rotors are rust free where the pads engage them. thanks again
Thank you !
You're welcome! and hope you are having a great weekend
🔥🔥🔥
Thanks brother !!!! Hope you are having a good day :) Its Friday !!!!!
I replace my brakes and it’s still grinding. What is the issue?
If you did not replace the rotors, it could be rust from the rotors. A very common issue I see is the steel backing plate gets bent very slightly during the job. To fix it you can just bend it back with your hand, if you have the alloy wheels you may be able to just reach through and push it back away from the rotor. If you have grinding in the morning (but goes away after a bit) that could be the pad material and there is no way to fix that. Also make sure the brake pad slides that the pads ride on are properly installed.
a pretty good video, didnt like the benny hill type fast loud music between.
Thanks for the comment and feedback, I do appreciate it. FYI - the fast Benny Hill music is gone LOL :) It was part of the learning curve for me :)
What's the torque specs. ?
Hey there and thanks for the comment. The bolt specs vary between 2013 and 2017, but they are close. The big bolts that hold the caliper bracket to the suspension average 50 ft/lbs and the small bolt to secure the caliper to the caliper bracket averages 20 ft/lbs.
Is this the same for a 2012?
Hey there, I believe the 2012 is the generation before this vehicle, but it should be very similar.
@@GarageKing got it, thanks for getting back so quickly :)
Anytime, have a good weekend !!@@thebayjay
Thank you
Thanks for the comment :)
Antiseeze works until it gets hot then it’s forever seize
Never had an issue,I know there are a few different types of anti-size and perhaps whats in the base changes things?
Rear brake pads do not come with clips. Sold separately. Front pads did come with them. Go figure
Well that sucks.... I don't know why they would have done that. Maybe a cheaper brand? I hope the old ones were reusable so you didn't have to run back to the parts store.
@GarageKing I guess they were. Had to run back. Last idiot didn't use them.
@@randywadsworth219 Oh geeze !!!! Well it happens, you are not the first and won't be the last !!!!
Rotors don't warp
You are correct, it is rotor run out, high spots due to thickness variations, and imprinting. The problem is if I get very technical people make comments they just want to change their rotors and don’t care how it happened. It’s how to fix it fast. So I try to keep it simple and say “warp” as it’s a common term that everyone can relate to. If I said imprinting I would have to explain it and that would make the video longer. I’ll try to be a little more technical in my next brake video. You obviously know your stuff and that’s great to see :) thanks for the comment because you are probably not the only one thinking this. I do appreciate the comment. Thanks :)
@@GarageKing you get a like for an honest answer.
@@papabits5721 Thanks very much !! I do appreciate that. I'm the type of guy that if I don't know I'll tell my viewers, and if I make a mistake I own up to it. The one thing I learned when positing videos is there are a lot of smart people who watch them, so honesty is always best !!! Thanks again and enjoy your day :)
i wouldnt use any mechanic that needs off or on printed on their rachet...
Fair comment, but these vids are more for the do it yourself person. I havent reviewed the video but I was probably trying to draw attention to anything that can prevent a mistake.
@@GarageKing No problem i just got a giggle seeing that.
@@Fortworthman999 Thank you !!!
I use a c clamp on the caliper lmao
Yup if you can keep it centered and make it work no problem at all. Lots do that
Videos is very distrative with extra annoying contents
Sorry about that, I try to make them a little entertaining as well (put some personality into them)