I came across your channel and started to follow you. I switched my R5 settings based on this video and my keeper rate improved drastically. Thank you for sharing your expertise and also the time you put in to make these videos as it has helped immensely!
Thank you very much for this video and for your instructions. I followed them step by step. I just bought the Canon 100-500. With that and the R5 and your instructions, I took the best bird photos I have every taken. All the best! Bob Reed, Tokyo, Japan.
I love your video, thought it was very intuitive…. I am in the midst of purchasing this camera vs the 1dx mark ii. The weight of the 1dx does not bother me. From all the videos I have watched including yours, the eye focus cannot be trusted. So I would prefer using your method of one point on zone . The mechanical shutter will reduce warping vs electronic shutter. The trade off is now 12fps with 45mp raw . Now this becomes the same frame rate as the original 1dx. I am not one to buy a camera every year, every week years, or every 4 years….imown a 5d mark iv for 7 years and still works great, but now I might purchase the r5…thanks again
The eye autofocus can be trusted, it's just if your subject isn't moving then don't hold it down forever. It's the same on all the brands really. The also is trying to think for you and you know how that's going to go lol
After watching your R8 vs R6ii, I listened to this video. Great job. You are very knowledgable and focussed on wildlife and canon. I like bears, wolves, moose - big animals - and landscape. Big animals are a little less demanding than birds and whales. But I should set up my r5 right anyway for when the flying Sasquatch comes out of the bush. :)
Hi.. great videos.. Just need to ask you - For animal eye detect and tracking, do we need to keep the button pressed to track the moving animal (just like the BBF button for AFC in DSLR cameras)? Or do you just press it once and leave it and it continues to track the animal..
thanks. can you tell me about inbody image stabilization? After i configured my manual mode, electronic shutter, etc, i d´ont longer have the option for IS inbody image stabilisation. THE ONE THAT YOU HAVE IN THE RED MENU, NR.7 (i had this option when i bought the camera, before i changed configurations). I use a canon 100-400 lens with image stabilisation , and i have IS on lends activated. ¿Is it because when we use lenses with image stabilisation, then the inbody IS, is already on by default, and thats why we don´t see it in the menu? I mention that, when i use another lens, without image stabilisation, then i do have that IS configuration option, in the red menu. thank you again
When using a lens with IS, the camera and lens both use stabilization to reduce camera shake. If you're using a non-IS lens, you should set the IS mode to "On".
Do you customize the buttons in the right column, the one for video? If so, how are those ever honored? When I customize them, and then push the red record button, these settings are ignored. Instead, the setting for the C3 movie mode is honored.
Great tutorial! I have the R5 and still haven’t mastered all the settings. I’ve got about same setup on the back button focus. Do you need to hold the eye focus button in when you release the shutter and same question for using single point focus. I heard you say in this tutorial not to hold the eye tracking button to long. Thank you for sharing …Ricky
Interesting to see how you're setting it up Scott ! Like you I also mostly use EFCS. The Australians seem to avoid EFCS because it could give strange effects when shooting faster then 1/1000 or 1/2000 (a bit dependent on camera). However such phenomena only would appear when using such speeds at F4 and wider apertures. Meaning when using big whites north of 10k$. So I'd say the risk of rolling shutter using electronic is bigger, and I only use that mode for very fast action. Regarding dual back button, I extended it slightly by setting the 'af point' button (right of * button) to 'direct af method selection', which allows me faster switching between spot AF and some zone AF which may help when needing to pre-focus on a flying bird when using longer focal lengths. So far, I was using Case 1 (options on -2 and -1) which I picked up from the same Australians. I'll give your settings a try next time around. The past months you posted many interesting R7 video's. How do you now compare the R5 and R7 ? Which one do you use when ?
Rolling shutter issues are pretty non existent as far as an issue on the R5 and I use big whites 90%of the time. the cameras are pretty interchangeable with me. It just depends which lens is on the camera for the job at hand at the time.
@@WILDALASKA Rolling shutter, as well as "the wobble" (about which Jan Wegener sometimes complains) can only happen with full electronic shutter. Jan and Duade are avoiding EFCS because that maybe give issues when shooting at F4 (and wider) when the shutter is faster than 1/1000. With the 100-500 I'm unable to use F4 when zooming in. But your big white may observe some screwed bokeh effects when shooting fast and wide open .. (Google EFCS high shutter speeds) Are you really getting the impression the R7 low light IQ comes close to the R5 ??
@@WernerBirdNature its very very low occurrence and there are things you can do to negate it. Its more your movements vs the subjects movement when it happens. A rotational movement of the camera and barrel of lens are main culprits. SO if your shooting 12 to 20 FPS you may loose maybe 1 shot out of a 10-20 burst which doesn't deter me much from using it.
@@WILDALASKA I agree with you on EFCS, and it puzzles me a bit why Jan and Duade either use electronic or mechanical, but nearly never EFCS With mechanical and low shutter speeds, my R6 seemed to have more shutter shock compared to my old 70D. EFCS gave me much higher keeper rate in those conditions.
@@WernerBirdNature I'm not sure. Different experiences and different shooting environments probably. Im not a bird photographer. Im just general wildlife. Lot more 'bigs" that I shoot vs tweety birds ;) If I was mainly a BIF guys then I may change my stance on which mode I shot also.
This Ossie is using mechanical first curtain shutter 99% of the time. I shoot fast moving swallows and dragonflys in front. Rolling shutter bends the wing tips of swallows and dragonflys. I have ES a really good try, but, for swallows and dragons, at least half of my shots need to be discarded due to funky bent wings. Even Rainbow Lorikeets in flight taking of from by bird feeder suffer rolling shutter. So, yes, rolling shutter is a problem for fast wings. I looked back at my 2016 dragonflys in flight shots from my 5d3, and, nice straight wings. Beautiful, except for the higher noise of the 5d3. My tip, use MFCS. Btw, I enter comps, sit though hundreds of judgings, and judges are now starting to recognise & comment on bent wings/ rolling shutter. I also use burst speed light for birding sometimes, and my CANON EL1 flash can keep up with the 12fps MFCS in most lighting conditions. Speedlight is not available in E shutter.
Raise that shutter speed and watch your camera movement. If you camera is super steady and shutter is fast enough then the bent wings will be when the bird/insect is changing direction on wing movement. A sudden change in speed etc. But again it depends on what you're shooting, if its got that erratic movement then you move it out of electronic if you see a lot of weird stuff. But most of the time it's not going to affect shots. Just in some situations it will. Same as low light, or hazy conditions, etc for exposure and what you need to do, same goes for rolling shutter situations ;) hope some of that helps.
The single point * button is only used to get the focal plane then off of it. The AF-On is held continuously if the subject is moving. If it stops then use it sparingly. Hope that helps
Hi Scott, I've been watching and loving your site for about a year now, thanks a million. I was wondering if you could help me with an R5 problem? I've search the web and can't find a definitive answer or solution. Problem: I cannot get jitter-free video footage when I have my R5 + RF100-500 lens mounted on a tripod unless I do not touch it. The instant I touch it and try to pan or tilt or adjust the camera, press a button, etc., I get super jittery footage. I use a half-decent tripod and a good video fluid head. All the camera and lens settings and switches are set properly. However, when I hand hold the camera the video is jitter free. There are the normal irregular movements as in all hand-held footage, but no jitters. It's as if the camera and/or the lens are turning off their stabilizing mechanisms when on a tripod. Do you know why is is happening and more importantly what to do about it? Thanks so much, Rudy in Ottawa
The problem with that AF Configuration is that when you push * the single point is always in the center and you can’t change the position. The way I have it is in the other way around. AF on with single point. * With Eye Detection.
Fun fact, when shooting in Mechanical Shutter or EFCS, you get a 14bit image vs when shooting electronic, you only get 12bit. I will be avoiding Electronic for this reason above all others as soon as my R5 gets here. And, hello from the K-Pen. 😊
That bit depth difference is not going to show in wildlife shots. Plus once you hear that mechanical shutter,....ugh lol. grats on the r5. great camera
I did some reading on this - look to petapixel - and concluded - this only matters if you push the shadows more than 3 stops. vs loud shutter and slower fps. eg it could matter for moose (dark in the dawn where you are avoiding motion blur) but generally you won't notice it.
The eye AF on the R5 works horribly here in the Galapagos. Sea lions, iguanas, and giant tortoises all have eyes that are so black you can hardly see them with your eyes and the camera almost never detects them for very long.
Our seals have the same eyes as well as moose with same color eyes as the face. The trick that helps some is raise your exposure to bit high which will help with that lock then drop exposure back down and it should stay locked
I came across your channel and started to follow you. I switched my R5 settings based on this video and my keeper rate improved drastically. Thank you for sharing your expertise and also the time you put in to make these videos as it has helped immensely!
THANKS and glad it helped :)
Just bought an R5. I mainly shoot aircraft but this video really cuts through a lot of the stuff I have watched/read. Very helpful - thanks
👍
Thank you very much for this video and for your instructions. I followed them step by step. I just bought the Canon 100-500. With that and the R5 and your instructions, I took the best bird photos I have every taken. All the best! Bob Reed, Tokyo, Japan.
Glad it helped!
I just switched from Lumix to the R5C and this video nailed the AF settings I was looking for. Thanks mate
Glad it helped
Thank you so much for the clarity of the explanations! I had to watch 3 other tutorials before finally catching the thing simply.
Glad it helped!
Thank you for the great tips. I just got my first R5 and I do a lot of birding photography.
Glad to help!
Very helpful. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I love your video, thought it was very intuitive…. I am in the midst of purchasing this camera vs the 1dx mark ii. The weight of the 1dx does not bother me. From all the videos I have watched including yours, the eye focus cannot be trusted. So I would prefer using your method of one point on zone . The mechanical shutter will reduce warping vs electronic shutter. The trade off is now 12fps with 45mp raw . Now this becomes the same frame rate as the original 1dx. I am not one to buy a camera every year, every week years, or every 4 years….imown a 5d mark iv for 7 years and still works great, but now I might purchase the r5…thanks again
The eye autofocus can be trusted, it's just if your subject isn't moving then don't hold it down forever. It's the same on all the brands really. The also is trying to think for you and you know how that's going to go lol
After watching your R8 vs R6ii, I listened to this video. Great job. You are very knowledgable and focussed on wildlife and canon. I like bears, wolves, moose - big animals - and landscape. Big animals are a little less demanding than birds and whales. But I should set up my r5 right anyway for when the flying Sasquatch comes out of the bush. :)
Those flying squatch can for sure take you off guard. they cause your camera to go out of focus also :P
Hi.. great videos.. Just need to ask you - For animal eye detect and tracking, do we need to keep the button pressed to track the moving animal (just like the BBF button for AFC in DSLR cameras)? Or do you just press it once and leave it and it continues to track the animal..
This video should help. R7 but same process. ua-cam.com/video/K9HdS81rp7E/v-deo.html
I set the AF select button to zone AF for BIF when face/eye doesn't get them. Works pretty well.
👍
Don't you use the crop 1.6 modus on the camera (tab 1)? Can you explain something about that? Thx.
I don't use in camera crop personally. If I ned crop I do it in post.
Thanks a lot for this video! It will be so useful! I will be trading in my DSLR for an R5 and I will be mainly taking birds and small animals.
Glad it was helpful!
thanks. can you tell me about inbody image stabilization?
After i configured my manual mode, electronic shutter, etc, i d´ont longer have the option for IS inbody image stabilisation. THE ONE THAT YOU HAVE IN THE RED MENU, NR.7 (i had this option when i bought the camera, before i changed configurations).
I use a canon 100-400 lens with image stabilisation , and i have IS on lends activated. ¿Is it because when we use lenses with image stabilisation, then the inbody IS, is already on by default, and thats why we don´t see it in the menu? I mention that, when i use another lens, without image stabilisation, then i do have that IS configuration option, in the red menu.
thank you again
When using a lens with IS, the camera and lens both use stabilization to reduce camera shake. If you're using a non-IS lens, you should set the IS mode to "On".
Hello, how can you use a spot point for AF if you have to chase a bird in flight, without using Chase instead of spot point?
ua-cam.com/video/K9HdS81rp7E/v-deo.html
Loving your content. Thanks very much for your hard work making these. Have you done a video on your editing workflow?
Yes, It's the video prior to this one. Also there's a lot of photo adventure stuff from earlier in the year you may like.
Here's the link t the workflow video ua-cam.com/video/sQTEqp129N8/v-deo.html
@@WILDALASKA thank you. I’ll check it out
Thanks for such a great video!
Glad you liked it!
Do you customize the buttons in the right column, the one for video? If so, how are those ever honored? When I customize them, and then push the red record button, these settings are ignored. Instead, the setting for the C3 movie mode is honored.
You have to change to a C1-3 button. I discuss this in another video and how to quickly jump from c1-3 with a button assignment
Thank you! Super helpful
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, very informative!
Glad it was helpful!
Great video!!
Is it good for aviation photography?
Yes, it is!
@@WILDALASKA
Thank you so much!!
Great tutorial! I have the R5 and still haven’t mastered all the settings. I’ve got about same setup on the back button focus. Do you need to hold the eye focus button in when you release the shutter and same question for using single point focus. I heard you say in this tutorial not to hold the eye tracking button to long. Thank you for sharing …Ricky
Thanks> watch this video. It's about the R7 but it's the exact same method I use on the R5 for AF and buttons. ua-cam.com/video/K9HdS81rp7E/v-deo.html
Interesting to see how you're setting it up Scott ! Like you I also mostly use EFCS. The Australians seem to avoid EFCS because it could give strange effects when shooting faster then 1/1000 or 1/2000 (a bit dependent on camera). However such phenomena only would appear when using such speeds at F4 and wider apertures. Meaning when using big whites north of 10k$. So I'd say the risk of rolling shutter using electronic is bigger, and I only use that mode for very fast action.
Regarding dual back button, I extended it slightly by setting the 'af point' button (right of * button) to 'direct af method selection', which allows me faster switching between spot AF and some zone AF which may help when needing to pre-focus on a flying bird when using longer focal lengths.
So far, I was using Case 1 (options on -2 and -1) which I picked up from the same Australians. I'll give your settings a try next time around.
The past months you posted many interesting R7 video's. How do you now compare the R5 and R7 ? Which one do you use when ?
Rolling shutter issues are pretty non existent as far as an issue on the R5 and I use big whites 90%of the time.
the cameras are pretty interchangeable with me. It just depends which lens is on the camera for the job at hand at the time.
@@WILDALASKA Rolling shutter, as well as "the wobble" (about which Jan Wegener sometimes complains) can only happen with full electronic shutter.
Jan and Duade are avoiding EFCS because that maybe give issues when shooting at F4 (and wider) when the shutter is faster than 1/1000. With the 100-500 I'm unable to use F4 when zooming in. But your big white may observe some screwed bokeh effects when shooting fast and wide open .. (Google EFCS high shutter speeds)
Are you really getting the impression the R7 low light IQ comes close to the R5 ??
@@WernerBirdNature its very very low occurrence and there are things you can do to negate it. Its more your movements vs the subjects movement when it happens. A rotational movement of the camera and barrel of lens are main culprits.
SO if your shooting 12 to 20 FPS you may loose maybe 1 shot out of a 10-20 burst which doesn't deter me much from using it.
@@WILDALASKA I agree with you on EFCS, and it puzzles me a bit why Jan and Duade either use electronic or mechanical, but nearly never EFCS
With mechanical and low shutter speeds, my R6 seemed to have more shutter shock compared to my old 70D. EFCS gave me much higher keeper rate in those conditions.
@@WernerBirdNature I'm not sure. Different experiences and different shooting environments probably. Im not a bird photographer. Im just general wildlife. Lot more 'bigs" that I shoot vs tweety birds ;)
If I was mainly a BIF guys then I may change my stance on which mode I shot also.
Why don't I have focus mode on my R5? I have everything in this AF Menu 1 except focus mode!
Not sure. Make sure you in manual mode to follow the setup
@@WILDALASKA Yes, that was they key! When I selected manual mode it appeared in my menu, thank you
This Ossie is using mechanical first curtain shutter 99% of the time.
I shoot fast moving swallows and dragonflys in front. Rolling shutter bends the wing tips of swallows and dragonflys. I have ES a really good try, but, for swallows and dragons, at least half of my shots need to be discarded due to funky bent wings. Even Rainbow Lorikeets in flight taking of from by bird feeder suffer rolling shutter. So, yes, rolling shutter is a problem for fast wings.
I looked back at my 2016 dragonflys in flight shots from my 5d3, and, nice straight wings. Beautiful, except for the higher noise of the 5d3.
My tip, use MFCS. Btw, I enter comps, sit though hundreds of judgings, and judges are now starting to recognise & comment on bent wings/ rolling shutter.
I also use burst speed light for birding sometimes, and my CANON EL1 flash can keep up with the 12fps MFCS in most lighting conditions.
Speedlight is not available in E shutter.
Raise that shutter speed and watch your camera movement. If you camera is super steady and shutter is fast enough then the bent wings will be when the bird/insect is changing direction on wing movement. A sudden change in speed etc.
But again it depends on what you're shooting, if its got that erratic movement then you move it out of electronic if you see a lot of weird stuff. But most of the time it's not going to affect shots. Just in some situations it will.
Same as low light, or hazy conditions, etc for exposure and what you need to do, same goes for rolling shutter situations ;) hope some of that helps.
Do you continue to hold the af and * button down the whole time you are shooting or just hit once and let go and shoot?
The single point * button is only used to get the focal plane then off of it.
The AF-On is held continuously if the subject is moving. If it stops then use it sparingly.
Hope that helps
Thanks for this. Is the auto focus on the R5 as good as the one on the R7? Is there a difference?
The R7 has more focus modes and at times seems stickier than the R5 but its still very close.
Hi Scott,
I've been watching and loving your site for about a year now, thanks a million.
I was wondering if you could help me with an R5 problem? I've search the web and can't find a definitive answer or solution.
Problem: I cannot get jitter-free video footage when I have my R5 + RF100-500 lens mounted on a tripod unless I do not touch it. The instant I touch it and try to pan or tilt or adjust the camera, press a button, etc., I get super jittery footage. I use a half-decent tripod and a good video fluid head. All the camera and lens settings and switches are set properly.
However, when I hand hold the camera the video is jitter free. There are the normal irregular movements as in all hand-held footage, but no jitters.
It's as if the camera and/or the lens are turning off their stabilizing mechanisms when on a tripod.
Do you know why is is happening and more importantly what to do about it?
Thanks so much,
Rudy in Ottawa
turn of image stabilization on the lens when on the tripod. IS only helps if the camera is moving
@@WILDALASKA Thanks very much, Scott.
The problem with that AF Configuration is that when you push * the single point is always in the center and you can’t change the position. The way I have it is in the other way around. AF on with single point. * With Eye Detection.
The single point (*) will be wherever you have your focus point set to and you can move it around
Thanks dude.🙂
Welcome 👍
Fun fact, when shooting in Mechanical Shutter or EFCS, you get a 14bit image vs when shooting electronic, you only get 12bit. I will be avoiding Electronic for this reason above all others as soon as my R5 gets here.
And, hello from the K-Pen. 😊
That bit depth difference is not going to show in wildlife shots. Plus once you hear that mechanical shutter,....ugh lol.
grats on the r5. great camera
I did some reading on this - look to petapixel - and concluded - this only matters if you push the shadows more than 3 stops. vs loud shutter and slower fps. eg it could matter for moose (dark in the dawn where you are avoiding motion blur) but generally you won't notice it.
Good.
Thanks
Semplice e stringato,perché non lo troviamo in italiano?
Cause I don't speak Italian 😄
The eye AF on the R5 works horribly here in the Galapagos. Sea lions, iguanas, and giant tortoises all have eyes that are so black you can hardly see them with your eyes and the camera almost never detects them for very long.
Our seals have the same eyes as well as moose with same color eyes as the face. The trick that helps some is raise your exposure to bit high which will help with that lock then drop exposure back down and it should stay locked