Excellent demonstraiton. thank you for sharing. I've seen these fencing corner brace arrangements exactly like this or similar, hundreds, if not thousands of times over the years. But I've never had the occasion to actually watch them being constructed. Nice to actually see one being put together.
Great video! I normally use the tractor to position the horizontal braces before using the long bit to drill the holes. It makes sure rebar is aligned correctly while driving it in.
Nice work, and it's peaceful listening to you explain what your doing without all the anoying useless info other channels are providing. You hit the nail on the head when you said there are other ways of doing it, but this was cheap and it works. I'm all for the cheapest way as long as it works and it lasts. I will be doing a similar project but around a veggie garden here in Minnesota. I will be going a bit shorter height though because our dog is able to keep out all the potential animal intruders. Thanks again!
Thanks for this, Pete! I really like how you didn't over engineer everything. I was really glad to see the reliable simplicity of your wire stays. (I was over thinking that bit) I hope the orchard is going well. I'm currently building my fencing to keep out elk and coyotes.
I have heard good arguments against using certain coatings though, like that it can create a “cup” effect that holds moisture against the pole. I am certainly not saying that you should not do it. Only that I have been told more than once it is not something I should do.
Amazing video. I started the day thinking of building a T post fence.... Now after three of your videos I know I'm doing it the right way now. Only difference is I have to use 4x4 or 6x6 treated and maybe log cabin screws.. I can not get the posts like your here... plus now I have to get a post hole drill for my tractor! Oh and to save a little I'm building the gates with square tubing and expanded metal... Great video you have a new subscriber.....
I always use a new project to justify a new tool purchase. It's clear to me now... what I am missing to make this whole thing come together is the tractor.
This guy has his sh!t together ! Great job & great video ! Lot's of Anglo women have to be wondering, how come he didn't choose local. Thanks for the super video Pete, this helped me much.
That is a really nice corner post , I sure do like the way you have done it, nice and sturdy. My husband always put the gate on the ground and it had gotten so hard for me to open is why I said what I did about the wheel, we ended up putting them on the gates :-)
I have been looking for a video like this for a while, clean, straight to the point. When I'll do mine I was thinking about sealing the top of the post (crosscut) facing the sky with the same protective paint you used at the bottom to avoid water to stagnate in small pockets and eventually get its way into the post which with freezes may promote wood cracking. I have no experience though so don't know how strong that treated post is so I may be overthinking.
Hi, ok so most posts fail at the ground to air interface. Water itself does not rot wood. It actually PRESERVES IT! Wood rot happens from a repeated "wet-dry' cycle. When this happens the wood fibers swell and shrink and it weakens them. That is rot. OK the tops of post do rot as well and take lots of sun too. This will eventually cause too rot, but it's less likely to do anything major to the post. Most will fail at the bottom first as I stated. Painting the tops would certainly slow down the top rot. However that roof sealer will crack eventually and let water in. Maybe a better solution would be plastic caps. Like they use for piers at the seashore. They may last a lot longer. ?
Great video series. I'm moving to rural Maine and trying to figure out a low cost, effective deer exclusion solution for the garden/orchard. Thanks for the well produced helpful vids.
Wow man, nice lawn. Wish I could grow that much down here in West Oz. I’d need way too much water to look after an area that big. Great clip too mate, cheers 🇦🇺
I never brace the corner posts. I use old FPL concrete posts for the corners and bury them 5 feet in the ground. You just put galvanized rod through holes you drill and hook the tension bar. A brush fire destroys wood posts so it's concrete and steel here. Plus the ground is mostly coral rock.
I've seen a deer jump a 10' high chainlink fence. Also good job on the fence. I am a fence contractor in SW Florida. I install pvc, chainlink aluminum and wood fence. Ill be installing my first no climb horse fence in a month or so.
@@petebeasttexashomesteading I own a commercial orchard. 7' is plenty. They will not jump 7' to get in, however they can and will jump it if you leave the gate open and chase them out....Been there, done that!
PA Lawn Guy. Pete, I was thinking I would take some marking dye and paint a concentric circle around each stake, remove the stakes, and move the auger to each circle without having to dismount the tractor twice at each stake to drill each hole. I think this would save you time. Please leave your thoughts.
I know its pretty had when you work by yourself. You could have cut the top of you post at a 45* to shed water or maybe you will tar them. Also you could paint an X or a + with bright paint so you could hit dead center. Nice Job !
Just thinking about the use of a tension wire for bracing as opposed to the old method of a compression timber pole brace that goes in opposite direction. With a gate hanging off that post the wire helps to keep the vertical posts and the horizontal beam clamped together tighter, were as the wooden brace method would pull apart. But if its just fencing wire on both sides I think I still prefer the good old wooden braces, also with notches on all joints to stop slipping up and down the posts. It's the old school Chippy 🔨 in me, can't beat a good mechanical joint over relying on just fastenings. 👍🏽
Great video, and your work looks good! But if you want some tips from someone who builds and paints fences for a living, here you go. Save your clamps. Just start and end your wire at a post and staple the ends to the post. No clamp is necessary. Also, there is no need to paint or treat the ends of the posts going into the ground. UV does way more damage to the wood than the soil. Almost every post I have ever pulled to rebuild fences is like new below the ground. It’s from the ground up where they deteriorate from the UV and heat. Also never cut posts. Try to space your posts better, or if driving them in, drive them to the right depth. When treatment is applied at the mill, they only treat the posts so deep all the way around. As soon as you cut them, you have just exposed untreated wood to the elements and it voids the warranty of the posts. And last but not least, once you are finished twisting the wire with the rebar, remove the rebar. The wire will not unwind. Again, you are doing a great job but I hope these tips help you are others.
Hello! Thank you for your advice kindly. Please if I may ask. Is it okay to leave the rebar in for my hot/cold upper Midwest climate so that I may release and then add tension with the heat/thaw cycles?
I want to do almost exactly the same thing, but I keep getting hung up on cutting a mortise joint with the chain saw rather than using a piece of rebar. I'm now at the acceptance stage that yours is the way I should be doing it. I guess I could use 2 pieces of rebar instead of just one?
just a question, why didnt you set the horizontal posts inbetween the corner post on the pallet forks and then drill the holes for the re bar and then hammer it in while in place? It seems that it would be easier then pre drilling and trying to line everything up after the fact. Thanks, great video and new subscriber
at the bottom of the post i put a chain saw cut just over 1/4" deep on the cack side for the wire to set into, plus 2 staples one on each side, as i have had the wire slip up in the winter pulling out the staples, our frost go down 7 feet.. o tar the cut once the wire is in
Nice job, unless that end treatment allows water to escape it will build up and still rot the bottom. If you ever have removed a bad fence post ( like the ones you have )the top always rots first due to the fact that water enters the top (seal the top and forget the rest) the post is already treated also add rock to the bottom so any water drains
Thanks, These post are CCA treated and should last 30 years but I also treated the post that makes ground contact with roofing tar except the very bottom so water can get out.
Very informative and some great tips. I liked the wire straining technique - simple and easy. I've just planted our orchard, so this was very timely information (similar in size to yours, but on a fairly steep, hillside so not as easy to erect a fence). Oh.... and what are your thoughts on the Mahindra tractor? I've been considering updating my 25 yr old Kubota and these look rugged and good value for money.
Thank you, I did a lot of research and the Mahindra tractor is the best tractor you can buy for the money and it will lift more then any tractor in its class. The 5555 I have now is very heavy duty and I paid around $31,000 and they have a good warranty.
They're a bit more expensive here in Australia, but the one I checked out was extremely robust, with thick chassis steel, seemed to be reasonably well built, solid and good value for money. Like you, I research everything carefully before parting with my hard-earned... Keep up the great videos - I really like the way you explain things and undertake tasks so they're affordable, easy to do and the finished product performs well. Do it once, and do it right!
I don't cement them because water can get trapped in between the post and cement and the post will rot. But if you do cement them, I would recommend putting the post in first, then add a few inches of dirt at the bottom and then add the cement. This way when water goes down in between the post and cement, it will be able to get out at the bottom and not get stuck there like if the post was sitting in a cement cup.
Got a smaller version of the same type design cedar post fence and the horizontal cross members are stress cracking, probably because the wires were over-tightened. Trying to figure out how to spread the fences posts just an inch or two so I can remove/replace them. Any thoughts on how to do this? Thanks.
Archimedes, find a fulcrum point and spread the posts using a bar or another post. I have used a porta power unit with a post as an extension to spread the posts. Or hook the top of the post to your tractor(truck, car, horse) and pull.
How tight is too tight? I just did this method and was thinking how strong is the wire? Could I tighten it too much that it snaps? BTW, thanks for this video...... awesome instructions
If you put 9 guage wire like I did, you won't have to worry about breaking it 🙂. But the wire should feel tight when you grab it and move it back and forth, that's good enough.
Using concrete just increases the diameter of the post so you don't have to go as deep. When you think about it, the concrete doesn't hold on or grab anything but dirt. By putting a post in concrete, it will just catch water in between the post and concrete like a cup and the post will rot. I just coat the bottom of the posts with roof coating and put them in 3 feet and it will last for many years.
When drilling the pilot holes for your rebar, how do you drill dead center and through the post. I know you have a feel for it, with experience but what do you suggest for someone’s first fencing project?
After you mark the height of the rebar, just put your drill on the mark and keep eye balling it from side to side to make sure you're on center and as you drill, keep checking to make sure you're drilling straight and not on an angle.
@@petebeasttexashomesteading i used the henry 100 percent silicone roof stuff and man that stuff has stood up strong against the tough Texas sun. And super flexible.
Hello Pete. First you have a beautiful place. Second thanks for this good video. This helped me out a lot. Finally I saw you have a Remington chain saw, I have the exactly the same. But I have o e issue and you may help me. After I use the chain saw and I turn it off and leave in level position I see after couple hours that the chain oil is leaking and I can't see how. Thanks again.
Excellent demonstraiton. thank you for sharing. I've seen these fencing corner brace arrangements exactly like this or similar, hundreds, if not thousands of times over the years. But I've never had the occasion to actually watch them being constructed. Nice to actually see one being put together.
Outstanding videos Pete. The fact that you go through all steps and show the tools used to complete helps out tremendously!
Thank you 🙂
Great video. I will be doing fencing soon and this is the most simple way I have seen to do corners. Thanks.
Great video! I normally use the tractor to position the horizontal braces before using the long bit to drill the holes. It makes sure rebar is aligned correctly while driving it in.
Nice work, and it's peaceful listening to you explain what your doing without all the anoying useless info other channels are providing. You hit the nail on the head when you said there are other ways of doing it, but this was cheap and it works. I'm all for the cheapest way as long as it works and it lasts. I will be doing a similar project but around a veggie garden here in Minnesota. I will be going a bit shorter height though because our dog is able to keep out all the potential animal intruders. Thanks again!
Thank you 👍
Thanks for this, Pete! I really like how you didn't over engineer everything. I was really glad to see the reliable simplicity of your wire stays. (I was over thinking that bit) I hope the orchard is going well. I'm currently building my fencing to keep out elk and coyotes.
Thank you 👍
My wife and I are just starting our homestead...you can bet we are going to use this technique. Thanks!!!
👍
Your method and instruction was very helpful. Built a solid fence using your method. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you.
Thanks for a good demonstration. Now we’ll start fencing in the spring. God bless you.
This was probably the best video on setting a corner post I have seen. Thank you very much
pvtrout Thank you, I really appreciate that.
His presentation style is good!
really like the idea of coating the post bottoms, should last a LONG time !!
Thanks
I have heard good arguments against using certain coatings though, like that it can create a “cup” effect that holds moisture against the pole.
I am certainly not saying that you should not do it. Only that I have been told more than once it is not something I should do.
Honestly the best fencing videos I’ve ever seen. Thanks a ton!
Thank you 👍
Outstanding video! Very detailed step-by-step procedure! Thank you for sharing your knowledge & experience with us! Sincere regards!
Mans best friend besides a dog is the posthole auger!🤠
Absolutely👍
And a Crescent Wrench (farmers friend).
Thank you for taking the time to share this skill with us!
Thank you 👍
Amazing video. I started the day thinking of building a T post fence.... Now after three of your videos I know I'm doing it the right way now. Only difference is I have to use 4x4 or 6x6 treated and maybe log cabin screws.. I can not get the posts like your here... plus now I have to get a post hole drill for my tractor! Oh and to save a little I'm building the gates with square tubing and expanded metal... Great video you have a new subscriber.....
Thank you 😊
.. You are a Very Patient and Very Dedicated Man .. Great Job building those Corner-Posts ..
Thank you 👍
Your video has answers to a lot of my questions, other than setting up posts too. Plus, nice to see an Indian brand tractor operating in US. Cheers :)
Thank you
I always use a new project to justify a new tool purchase. It's clear to me now... what I am missing to make this whole thing come together is the tractor.
Beautiful demo Sir... watching from Africa
This guy has his sh!t together ! Great job & great video ! Lot's of Anglo women have to be wondering, how come he didn't choose local. Thanks for the super video Pete, this helped me much.
Glad it was helpful 👍
I go to a lot of farm sales. Over the last few years i have picked up a lot of cheap cable come alongs. Easy to use for your bracing.
👍
Great video!! I am having to repair several fence parts on my property. This certainly helps me with some extra ideas. Thanks a bunch!
Thank you
That is a really nice corner post , I sure do like the way you have done it, nice and sturdy. My husband always put the gate on the ground and it had gotten so hard for me to open is why I said what I did about the wheel, we ended up putting them on the gates :-)
Thank you, wheels definitely help carry the weight and make it much easier to open but the ground has to be fairly flat or level. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for this video! Better information here than from the building supply house where i bought the posts. I appreciate you man!!
Thank you 👍🙂
Thanks, just learning to farm. About to start fencing for 3 cows
Thank you 👍
I have been looking for a video like this for a while, clean, straight to the point. When I'll do mine I was thinking about sealing the top of the post (crosscut) facing the sky with the same protective paint you used at the bottom to avoid water to stagnate in small pockets and eventually get its way into the post which with freezes may promote wood cracking. I have no experience though so don't know how strong that treated post is so I may be overthinking.
Hi, ok so most posts fail at the ground to air interface. Water itself does not rot wood. It actually PRESERVES IT! Wood rot happens from a repeated "wet-dry' cycle. When this happens the wood fibers swell and shrink and it weakens them. That is rot.
OK the tops of post do rot as well and take lots of sun too. This will eventually cause too rot, but it's less likely to do anything major to the post. Most will fail at the bottom first as I stated.
Painting the tops would certainly slow down the top rot. However that roof sealer will crack eventually and let water in.
Maybe a better solution would be plastic caps. Like they use for piers at the seashore. They may last a lot longer. ?
Thank Mr Push, I have also seen some homesteaders cutting the top at an angle facing south so rain water slide down and it get direct sun in winter.
Thank you Sir!
Awesome job!
Butch, Ashland Ohio
Pallet forks for the loader sure does make that job a lot easier.
👍
Great video series. I'm moving to rural Maine and trying to figure out a low cost, effective deer exclusion solution for the garden/orchard. Thanks for the well produced helpful vids.
I just found your channel. Loving it... Blessings to you! I really needed to learn this info for a future project!
Thank you ☺
Wow man, nice lawn. Wish I could grow that much down here in West Oz. I’d need way too much water to look after an area that big. Great clip too mate, cheers 🇦🇺
Thanks 👍
Great video, Thanks. Fixin to start a fencing job and this really helps me find out how to brace the corners.
I am a first time viewer love what I see so far!
Thank you ☺
Absolutely love your channel. Learning a lot from every video.
Thank you, I really appreciate that 👍
I never brace the corner posts. I use old FPL concrete posts for the corners and bury them 5 feet in the ground. You just put galvanized rod through holes you drill and hook the tension bar. A brush fire destroys wood posts so it's concrete and steel here. Plus the ground is mostly coral rock.
That sound horrible to try and dig into.
I've seen a deer jump a 10' high chainlink fence. Also good job on the fence. I am a fence contractor in SW Florida. I install pvc, chainlink aluminum and wood fence. Ill be installing my first no climb horse fence in a month or so.
Thank you, Yes deer are amazing jumpers. I'm hoping to deter the deers from jumping the 7 foot fence into my orchard.
@@petebeasttexashomesteading I own a commercial orchard. 7' is plenty. They will not jump 7' to get in, however they can and will jump it if you leave the gate open and chase them out....Been there, done that!
Just ran across your channel.. Great video!! Just gained yourself a new subscriber from Oklahoma!
Awesome! Thank you!
PA Lawn Guy. Pete, I was thinking I would take some marking dye and paint a concentric circle around each stake, remove the stakes, and move the auger to each circle without having to dismount the tractor twice at each stake to drill each hole. I think this would save you time.
Please leave your thoughts.
Jerry F Sorry for the late response. Yeah that's a good idea but I still have to get off the tractor to make sure the auger is straight.
Excellent video! Thank You. Looked online and could not find 6”x10’ posts at Tractor Supply.
Thank you, but the posts are made locally here in east Texas. Try to do a search in your area for the posts.
Set all corner posts , first , pull a string........then set all other posts for each corner !
Y
You did such a super job with this video, Thank you for sharing with us!
Thank you so much!
Really enjoyed this thanks hope the dogs are all doing OK best of luck...
Dobbo2958 Thank you
Good video sir. We are doing some fencing on our land. Gonna use this video as a guide. Thanks
👍
I've been building a fence post brace post like that for 40 years but I always put my posts in the ground 4 feet deep
👍
Pete nice job with the post,well it’s been 2 years so I am guessing you will getting some fruit this year.
Thanks, I had pears, plumbs, persimmons and nectarines last year but I never got to taste the nectarines but the raccoons did. 🙁
great video - very useful for me to see what I need to do on my first fence. Thanks! Good comment by Rick Berg below, too.
DellsDad86 Thank you
Great job! Gonna be doing that some time soon on our project!
Thank you
Great video. Clear and concise. I am in east Texas also. Would you share your additional treatment recipe?
Thank you 👍
I know its pretty had when you work by yourself. You could have cut the top of you post at a 45* to shed water or maybe you will tar them. Also you could paint an X or a + with bright paint so you could hit dead center. Nice Job !
👍
Stanley Keith I'd have to mark it too! He's pretty handy to be able to eyeball it that well .
Awesome video. Helped me with a college project.
👍
Good video & instructions. Thanks
Nice video. Imagine how hard this would’ve been before tractors and battery powered tools!
some of us dont have to imagine
Just thinking about the use of a tension wire for bracing as opposed to the old method of a compression timber pole brace that goes in opposite direction. With a gate hanging off that post the wire helps to keep the vertical posts and the horizontal beam clamped together tighter, were as the wooden brace method would pull apart. But if its just fencing wire on both sides I think I still prefer the good old wooden braces, also with notches on all joints to stop slipping up and down the posts. It's the old school Chippy 🔨 in me, can't beat a good mechanical joint over relying on just fastenings. 👍🏽
Great video, and your work looks good! But if you want some tips from someone who builds and paints fences for a living, here you go. Save your clamps. Just start and end your wire at a post and staple the ends to the post. No clamp is necessary. Also, there is no need to paint or treat the ends of the posts going into the ground. UV does way more damage to the wood than the soil. Almost every post I have ever pulled to rebuild fences is like new below the ground. It’s from the ground up where they deteriorate from the UV and heat. Also never cut posts. Try to space your posts better, or if driving them in, drive them to the right depth. When treatment is applied at the mill, they only treat the posts so deep all the way around. As soon as you cut them, you have just exposed untreated wood to the elements and it voids the warranty of the posts. And last but not least, once you are finished twisting the wire with the rebar, remove the rebar. The wire will not unwind. Again, you are doing a great job but I hope these tips help you are others.
Hello! Thank you for your advice kindly. Please if I may ask. Is it okay to leave the rebar in for my hot/cold upper Midwest climate so that I may release and then add tension with the heat/thaw cycles?
Great video! I’m about to build our goat pen with utility poles I’m getting for free from our electric company. Also going to use them as raised beds.
Good job. Nice soil. Thanks for sharing.
"I don't use a drill bit this long ever" lol that's what she said. Subbed
I want to do almost exactly the same thing, but I keep getting hung up on cutting a mortise joint with the chain saw rather than using a piece of rebar. I'm now at the acceptance stage that yours is the way I should be doing it. I guess I could use 2 pieces of rebar instead of just one?
I used 3/8 rebar and it's holding up great. You could use 1/2 rebar if you're worried about it.
just a question, why didnt you set the horizontal posts inbetween the corner post on the pallet forks and then drill the holes for the re bar and then hammer it in while in place? It seems that it would be easier then pre drilling and trying to line everything up after the fact. Thanks, great video and new subscriber
That would work too. I could of got one end in place the drilled through and hammered the rebar in, then go do the same to the other side.
I would break 1 7/16” grade 8 sheer pin an hr drilling holes for my posts where I live, the soil has so many big rocks. 55 hp tractor, 12” auger.
Thank you sir. You just have done my day. I work on it tomorrow!
👍
Great video. I will be putting a fence up soon and this will be very handy!
Thank you
Very helpful with how to do the wire bracing.
Don Clark Thank you
What did you coat bottom of posts with? A ship auger drill bit will clear chips.
I wish my land was level like your...lol. Oh well. Great job. Handsome fella. Wish I could have help you.
at the bottom of the post i put a chain saw cut just over 1/4" deep on the cack side for the wire to set into, plus 2 staples one on each side, as i have had the wire slip up in the winter pulling out the staples, our frost go down 7 feet.. o tar the cut once the wire is in
👍
좋은 거 보여주셔서 감사합니다.
Good job.Thanks for sharing.
Great video. Thanks the step by step process and detail.
👍
Best instructional video for corner bracing install I found. Thank you so much! Where did you buy your posts from?
Thanks for sharing. Have you ever used or heard of anyone using gravel to pack the post holes?
I like how he tells his dog to leave. Dog says yikes!
Like that car in the background when you're digging the holes
You must live close to me..I am close to onalaska texas..I love watching your videos
Howdy neighbor 👍
didn't mention a thing about your stakes on square? Does it not matter to you or did you just leave this out? I personally use ratio of 3:4:5.
Nice job, unless that end treatment allows water to escape it will build up and still rot the bottom. If you ever have removed a bad fence post ( like the ones you have )the top always rots first due to the fact that water enters the top (seal the top and forget the rest) the post is already treated also add rock to the bottom so any water drains
Thanks, These post are CCA treated and should last 30 years but I also treated the post that makes ground contact with roofing tar except the very bottom so water can get out.
Thanks good info Iam going to start a project this helped a lot. I probably look at video again.
👍
Thanks dude. Exactly what I needed.
Great video Thanks Bud👍🏻
Wish I lived on a farm, love that tractor and accessories. Guess I am a farm boy wannabe. :O)
Thank you, make it happen and find a place out in the country and get away from the city like I did. I'll never go back to that rat race again.
@@petebeasttexashomesteading You are lucky. I am 84 YO. Too late for me. If you were my age you would know why!
Be careful what u wish for. Check local noise ordinances first !
Very informative and some great tips. I liked the wire straining technique - simple and easy. I've just planted our orchard, so this was very timely information (similar in size to yours, but on a fairly steep, hillside so not as easy to erect a fence). Oh.... and what are your thoughts on the Mahindra tractor? I've been considering updating my 25 yr old Kubota and these look rugged and good value for money.
Thank you, I did a lot of research and the Mahindra tractor is the best tractor you can buy for the money and it will lift more then any tractor in its class. The 5555 I have now is very heavy duty and I paid around $31,000 and they have a good warranty.
They're a bit more expensive here in Australia, but the one I checked out was extremely robust, with thick chassis steel, seemed to be reasonably well built, solid and good value for money. Like you, I research everything carefully before parting with my hard-earned... Keep up the great videos - I really like the way you explain things and undertake tasks so they're affordable, easy to do and the finished product performs well. Do it once, and do it right!
@@rogerbettoni1382 Thank you 👍
Painting them was a great idea -- thanks . Last week lowes appraised regular metal fence for 5,600$$$$ ----hahahaha ====>>>>SHIT!!!!!!!
.
I don’t know much about building a fence so just asking is there a reason why you didn’t cement them in the ground? Are they just as strong?
I don't cement them because water can get trapped in between the post and cement and the post will rot. But if you do cement them, I would recommend putting the post in first, then add a few inches of dirt at the bottom and then add the cement. This way when water goes down in between the post and cement, it will be able to get out at the bottom and not get stuck there like if the post was sitting in a cement cup.
Just Wonderful. Learnt many things! Thank you
Thank you
Thanks, I am going to do the same but down sized a little. I'll make my 2 acres in town look like country.
👍
Got a smaller version of the same type design cedar post fence and the horizontal cross members are stress cracking, probably because the wires were over-tightened. Trying to figure out how to spread the fences posts just an inch or two so I can remove/replace them. Any thoughts on how to do this? Thanks.
Archimedes, find a fulcrum point and spread the posts using a bar or another post. I have used a porta power unit with a post as an extension to spread the posts. Or hook the top of the post to your tractor(truck, car, horse) and pull.
How tight is too tight? I just did this method and was thinking how strong is the wire? Could I tighten it too much that it snaps? BTW, thanks for this video...... awesome instructions
If you put 9 guage wire like I did, you won't have to worry about breaking it 🙂. But the wire should feel tight when you grab it and move it back and forth, that's good enough.
Six years since you posted the video. Thank you. How is the Mahindra tractor holding up?
@@tommyhughes7073 It hasn't given me any trouble and still use it.
Thank you, im looking at one now. @@petebeasttexashomesteading
If you turn your pto off while your auger is still in the hole then lift it out nice and slow it will leave you a little less work cleaning them out.
Thanks just took out a gate last week and was wondering how the braces go back in.
👍
how deep would you recommend the rebar to be put into the middle brace? Looks like you only go 3-4 inches?
I think the rebar was 12 inches long, so I put them in about 6 inches.
When would you use and not use concrete to set the posts? This was a great education for me on the corner posts.
Using concrete just increases the diameter of the post so you don't have to go as deep. When you think about it, the concrete doesn't hold on or grab anything but dirt. By putting a post in concrete, it will just catch water in between the post and concrete like a cup and the post will rot. I just coat the bottom of the posts with roof coating and put them in 3 feet and it will last for many years.
thats some nice soil there. good video
Thanks 👍
Great video!.Lots of information.
Glad it was helpful!
I have those long drills. They go through like lightning.
When drilling the pilot holes for your rebar, how do you drill dead center and through the post. I know you have a feel for it, with experience but what do you suggest for someone’s first fencing project?
After you mark the height of the rebar, just put your drill on the mark and keep eye balling it from side to side to make sure you're on center and as you drill, keep checking to make sure you're drilling straight and not on an angle.
Hello, what did you treat the bottom of your post with? Great video by the way. Thank you.
I treated them with Henry #201 roof coating: www.homedepot.com/p/Henry-0-90-Gal-201-Fibered-Roof-Coating-HE201142/100005599
@@petebeasttexashomesteading i used the henry 100 percent silicone roof stuff and man that stuff has stood up strong against the tough Texas sun. And super flexible.
Awesome video im about to do some fencing for cattle very informative thanks a lot
Thank you
Hey, what's that black thing on the posts? Thx:)
Hello Pete. First you have a beautiful place. Second thanks for this good video. This helped me out a lot. Finally I saw you have a Remington chain saw, I have the exactly the same. But I have o e issue and you may help me. After I use the chain saw and I turn it off and leave in level position I see after couple hours that the chain oil is leaking and I can't see how. Thanks again.
Yep I have the same problem so now I drain the oil out when I put it away.