A great tip I got from a spackler once. If the wall has many paint layers put on over many years it will likely have an orange peel look from the many coats of paint that built up on each other. This is especially true in older homes. Once sanded smooth your beautiful new spackle job sticks out like a sore thumb after painted. UHG! To prevent this here’s the trick: before painting, mix up a THIN batch of spackle to a “paint like” consistency. Use it like paint. Roll your paint roller in it & go over the new spackle. You can even go beyond it a bit to further blend in with the old painted wall. Let it dry. Lightly sand with a barely damp sponge, blend the edges of the “spackle paint” with the old paint on the wall. Now when you the paint your wall you won’t see any demarcation from old wall to the new. No special talent needed by a DYIer.
Looks like it but i couldn't leave a wall in that state. I know he was trying to blend and match the condition of the existing wall, which was in a terrible state but I couldn't leave it like that. I either make the whole wall perfect or I don't take the job.
This is a pretty good explanation. There is a very important step you left out if you are texturing. You need to prime your finished mud work before you texture. If you don't do that the The texture will dry at different rates on the newly repaired area as compared to the existing painted areas. This is known as telegraphing and will show up in your finished painting coat(s).
To save the handymans stress of using joint tape which often results with a domed finish and the inevitable sanding down inadvertently revealing the tape. Use construction adhesive in the gap around the repair piece, when dry sand it flush if necessary, then top coat over the top of it. Done it many times with no failures or cracking.
That's the difference between a "handyman" and a finisher. Construction adhesive will result in lower quality work. That's not how it's done by professionals so why would it be good? Someone who is good (heck, even decent) at drywall will use a tape of some kind because that's how it's done. Don't ever use construction adhesive or caulk. You "can" use spray foam to "prefill" your joints (what he did right before taping them), but sparingly and being sure to cut it completely flush. But unless in an extreme situation, I don't think I ever would. Do what this video has shown. Use either paper tape, mesh tape, or Fibafuse (a thinner fiberglass based product which I use for all patches/new to existing). Coat as desired (2 to 3 coats). After final coat, sand and sand somewhat harshly around the edges to blend your coats into the existing texture (you should almost be able to start seeing your existing texture through your own own work, but only at the edges maybe 1/2" to 1" in depending on size of patch). Match texture by having it slowly fan out into existing. If it's a texture with lots of coverage, you can make it thinner where your mud is the most built up, because depending on the texture, the texture itself should be no different in pattern, but the thickness of the mud will actually make it appear more flat/uniform (keep in mind, with drywall nothing is flat, but it's the job of the professional to make it appear flat). I'm not trying to be rude, I just want to make it clear, there is way things are done, and a reason for them. I wouldn't come into your workplace and start making stuff up when I myself am uninformed. I'm all for people DIY'ing but at the same time, I pay people to do work that I'm not comfortable doing myself, there is no shame in anyone else doing the same.
If you are using mesh tape you HAVE to use HOT MUD (they did in the video but no mention of having to use it with mesh tape). Using pre-mixed mud, the joint will be prone to failing as pre-mixed mud shrinks about 20% when it dries and won't grip the threads in the tape). Read the label on the mesh tape if you don't believe me. If you don't have hot mud, then use regular paper tape.
@@wally7856 na I found in the long run in Australia the paper tape always fails after 5 years see it every day and our pre mix mud we have a few types base,top,finish the base does not shrink at all
This is how a professional does drywall repair. Telling your average person to mix their own mud and apply 4-5 coats with different compounds is more than a little overkill. I think for your average DIYer it's more than sufficient to fit a drywall patch into the hole and seal it in with joint compound, then sand the result to get it smooth. Repeat as needed until the repair blends in. Personally, I don't put in a backing or use tape. I take the piece of drywall that is going in the hole, apply compound around the edges so it will stick in the hole. Let that dry and then apply a top coat to get the wall even. Sand and apply one more coat if needed. I've never used backing, mesh, or tape for repairs and never had a problem with the result. 🤷♂
My concern with any hole over a couple of inches without backing is that joint compound is pretty weak, and the likelihood of knocking out the patch is pretty good.
I agree with the multiple coat overkill but this isn't necessarily a 'pro' method, it is how a quality DIY'er does (maybe just two coats of good mud). It is not that hard to do right...I use 1x3's for backing and mesh tape ...how much could this cost?? Not using either is pretty amateurish and somewhere down the line when someone tries to hang a picture on your crummy patch, you're gonna look foolish when your patch caves in, just because you were too lazy or unskilled to do it right.
I did this to method to fill an outlet hole that was placed wrong. I ran into problems with getting the drywall filler piece to stay in place and at the right depth. It's an out of the way patch and I managed to get it done but my best result was a large hole up near our celling in the main living room that I opened up for wiring. That thin drywall repair tape that I think he used in this video worked great. I spread one very thin layer of premixed drywall mud over it to cover the tape and fill the gaps. Let it dry, applied some orange peal and painted. Turned out so well that you have to know it's there to find it.
Perfect timing. I’m a fall risk from CMT, and have fallen and either pulled down something supposedly anchored in the wall, or pushed something into a wall leaving a hole gouged into it. I’m about to undertake fixing some of these holes. Thanks!
Yeah try it at the store. They will love you for that!!! Some people might prefer using some other type of spreader for the joint compound. This only shows their inexperience. Done right you don't need top coat. Use a primer like Kilz after the area has dried completely. Let that dry completely by the directions on the container. There are other ways to repair a hole but this method spreads the load over a wider area. Most people won't notice the difference between a sprayed on texture from a can and a texture from a tacky paint roller. Just paint the area normally using the normal amount of paint and as the roller runs out of paint it will leave tips that resemble texture. Not as much but if you are a cheapskate like me or can't afford the $20 can of spray this method will be enough for most people. If you don't like the results you can always add the texture later.
Everyone can be a critic, but thanks. These tips give a DIYer like me a different way to do a patch...I did them before and some look great, some not so much. I did not know about the top coat mud, so will look into it. I keep both 20-minute and 5-minute hot mud in 5 gal buckets, so that when needed, I have it w/o having to run to the store.
My problem is the wall I'm trying to patch is textured, I cannot get a clean consistant layer applied. I'm hoping ill just sand it down to smooth it all out.
Add some dish detergent in your joint compound if you want it to be silkier when mixing. It won't compromise the joint compound and makes a noticeable difference. If you do a California patch, you don't need backing or tape. It's more difficult but it is a cleaner installation, IMO.
This is a pretty decent method. I cut a perfect square with about 1inch added. Then you scar the paper to the exact cut, break those extra inches off and remove the drywall. This will give you an exact fit with its own paper as the backing. Can mix with hotter water for a faster dry.
@@lou-nc4rc I think that would be a little big for a California patch, especially if it is an area that might get hit again. Only takes a few minutes to install some kind of backing.
@@lou-nc4rcif you have a 18x24" hole or anything close to 16" you may as well make a patch that goes from stud to stud... Even if i had a 13" hole i would cutout my patch to attach to the studs directly...
Great video. Could you & Williams show us how to fix an improper drywall patch? I believe another poster mentioned this in the comments. So just cut it out & follow this procedure?
I'm not a drywall professional. Every time I patch something and try to match the texture (typically knock down) it looks pretty good until I apply paint. Then, for some reason, the discontinuity jumps out at you. Generally, the error is towards too much texture. This takes a lot of experience to get right. Or you need to get lucky.
After the texture dries give it WIDE light sand. 220 grit sandpaper. Finally, you need to always two coat your paint. See if that works for you. I've done this work commercially for 22 years.
Always use taping mud when applying the tape and use your proper finishing mud for your next Coates, also use a trowel on patches as you get the best flat result..
Another mistake DIYers make is "wet sanding" the premixed stuff. Sure, wet sanding cuts down on dust but wet sanding the premixed stuff usually rehydrates the mix and too much of the mud comes off, leaving voids and exposing the tape. To cut down on dust small thin repeated layers is the way to go, only put on enough mud to hide lines and only sand off enough to feather it.
Great Video! I never seen any Dry Wall Repairs done with Multy Coats. They all used just one? So this was diffrerent. Cost more too. Im sure harder to sand will not be a big deal though. You can sand wood which is not a big deal and harder then this. So Im going to assume that why they just stick with One Compound? Saves time and money?
I removed wallpaper, and pulled the top layer in a few small sections. I've done some research, and know that I have to cover the exposed brown paper, with something like Zinsser GARDZ or BIN, or some other type of sealer. At that point, what type of mud is recommended. Can I just get away with a layer of the blue top TOPPING mud and sand it down before primer and paint?
After removed wallpaper apply at least two or three coats of sealer otherwise the brown paper becomes a nightmare 😅. Then just follow the steps on the video. Maybe you’ll need an extra coat of mud just because of the brown paper peeling off.
Wouldn’t it be better if you cut out some of the drywall paper to lay in the tape so when you apply the joint compound you don’t need to put so much mud to blend it flat?
If I have some of the original paint and am going to use that, I've gotten best results by applying a thin layer of sealer over the dried plaster before painting it. It now won't absorb the paint at a faster rate than the surrounding painted wall and will therefore blend much better.
Get some paint stir sticks at Lowe's. Use a hot glue gun to glue them sticking them into the hole front to back. Wrap some mesh tape onto the sticks for compound support. That's your backing/support. Then, slap on some compound. Sand and repeat until smooth. Paint. You're done.
Wow, this ‘Williams’ not only tears off the loose chunks and drops them into the wall, but pulls off and risks damaging the outer paper and enlarging the required patch, @ 0:52 ? Who does that? Wow @ 02:20! Cockeyed and irregular cutout, and poor fitting patch! I, umm, just don't get it? Not even going to comment on the way he put the backing ‘sticks’ in. Stopped watching shortly after that point, but I did watch William tape and mud the patch, and what a fantastic job. Very good technique. 👍
Great video But question Green lid is to fill in the gaps and Blue lid will be the top layer allowing to easily sand? Also how many coats of green and blue is necessary? Thank you
This can vary somewhat on the repair, but for ones like in this video, you'll typically have one coat of green lid (or hot mud) under the mesh tape, just to get things level again, then two more on top. Once those are dry, you use one coat of blue lid as the surface/texture layer.
You’ll likely see layer issues if you do that on a hole that is deep or all the way through the drywall. If you want to try it, I’d do multiple lighter layers.
With a hole that small, you don't have to put a sheet rock plug, just put a stir stick behind it and mud over. Been doing it this way for years. No problem.
I’ve done this before successfully by just putting really thick crumbled cardboard paper in the hole and then applying the mud. That gives the mud something to attach to. It’s been five years and it’s still looks good.
To eliminate the paper edge that your mud knife would get caught on and gives you something to fill flush. There's a much faster stronger way to fill these.
The only comment I have is that you assumed half inch drywall. You should have at least made a comment to confirm the thickness of the drywall. Some older homes have 3/8 and some have 5/8 in bathrooms. You also should mention plaster walls, even to suggest calling a professional.
I bought a new home which is a model home so I notice a spot on my wall seems softer than the surrounding area when I touch it so I think the builder didn't patch the drywall correctly
The stereotype of grown men punching things when they're triggered is not something you want to perpetuate. Mesh tape just makes things harder to blend and NEVER layer the tape at the corners. Adding unnecessary thickness is counterproductive.
I've repaired more than one "temper" hole in our drywall, usually from teenagers. In fact I'd say that's been the major source of needing to patch walls over many decades of home ownership. And everyone I know just nods in sympathy when I mention it - so not so sure it's a stereotype (apart from the "grown men" part). Also, though I tend to agree on the older mesh tapes, there's a newer one (I think it's called fibafuse, only ever needed to buy one roll) which almost melts into the joint compound and is very strong. I had to open a wall recently to fix an issue and that stuff was amazing on the patch.
Stereotype? I don't think there are any types of stereos here - I think what Learn2DYI is telling all of us is, "Look... Don't f*** with me, a**h***!!!" 😏...
5 minute mud is used mainly for painters that work in large apartment complexes that have to paint 2-3 apartments a day , the 5 minute compound needs to quickly repair any minor damage . The mud dries fast enough to be paintable in about 30 minutes .
Driving theose screws in can and will become a thing. You gotta have a sense of pressure on your drill. If you paint or play any type of musical instrument, you'll know what I'm talking bout
V cuts eliminates all that stir stick and/or stuffed paper backing b.s.! At least a v-cut on two opposing sides, all four is twice as strong. V-cut (or angle cut as some people call it) all eight edges. The existing four sides of the hole in the wall and the four sides of your piece of drywall patch. The "face" of the v-cut on the existing wall will prevent the new piece of drywall from getting pushed through when the patch piece of drywalls v-cut face is preesed to the walls face. Then apply your tape and mud. If you've matched the patch size to the hole size well enough, you don't even need the tape...
yeah, except one thing, instead of putting those 2 nails through the wall to hold the timber you could have just as easily (and it would hold better) use Liquid nails on the back of the timber so it sticks to the inside of the wall and you could have done the same for the piece you stick to the timber . No holes to worry about
Malcolm this comment made me spit up my milk. Lol. So funny. And yeah, I agree that they completely missed explaining the muscle mechanics of spackling. I’m not bad at it, but the dude here is… very experienced. Lol. In reality this will be just a little insight and practice is up to you, but the way to get good is: - Prep the area so nothing sits ‘higher’ (bulges) out beyond the flush wall. Troughs are ok. Bulges are not. - First swipes to fill the troughs and light coat the seams. - Second coat to feather out the edges of your repair at least 8” - now lean into a nice wide taping knife 8,10 or 12” pushing harder on the outside edge of the repair. After both sides get a good swipe, come straight down the middle with even gentle pressure and a flat attack angle to tidy up the ridges. Practice makes perfect of course. .
I DIY almost everything in my home, and the number 1 mistake I keep making is not hiring someone else to do the work.
A great tip I got from a spackler once. If the wall has many paint layers put on over many years it will likely have an orange peel look from the many coats of paint that built up on each other. This is especially true in older homes. Once sanded smooth your beautiful new spackle job sticks out like a sore thumb after painted. UHG! To prevent this here’s the trick: before painting, mix up a THIN batch of spackle to a “paint like” consistency. Use it like paint. Roll your paint roller in it & go over the new spackle. You can even go beyond it a bit to further blend in with the old painted wall. Let it dry. Lightly sand with a barely damp sponge, blend the edges of the “spackle paint” with the old paint on the wall. Now when you the paint your wall you won’t see any demarcation from old wall to the new. No special talent needed by a DYIer.
Excellent
This guy is a real pro. His angle and pressure is not easy to match for us mere mortals!
I agree!!! he has done that a few times. He made it look to easy.
Looks like it but i couldn't leave a wall in that state. I know he was trying to blend and match the condition of the existing wall, which was in a terrible state but I couldn't leave it like that. I either make the whole wall perfect or I don't take the job.
His mudding is really good
knives/trowels are very sharp and to see his on his hip won't fly at all. clean out a bucket
This is a pretty good explanation. There is a very important step you left out if you are texturing. You need to prime your finished mud work before you texture. If you don't do that the The texture will dry at different rates on the newly repaired area as compared to the existing painted areas. This is known as telegraphing and will show up in your finished painting coat(s).
I think this is what happened when I patched a hole in my bathroom. It just looked off.
It's so satisfying to watch a pro mud over a drywall patch. I aspire to have that level of grace someday.
Thank you Nils and WIlliams for a useful demonstration of how it could be done. Thank you.
To save the handymans stress of using joint tape which often results with a domed finish and the inevitable sanding down inadvertently revealing the tape. Use construction adhesive in the gap around the repair piece, when dry sand it flush if necessary, then top coat over the top of it. Done it many times with no failures or cracking.
ta that works till someone touches it and it falls out
Use scrim and give it about 4 thin coats each coat getting wider and longer. To help with the blend.
yep that work well
That's the difference between a "handyman" and a finisher. Construction adhesive will result in lower quality work. That's not how it's done by professionals so why would it be good?
Someone who is good (heck, even decent) at drywall will use a tape of some kind because that's how it's done. Don't ever use construction adhesive or caulk.
You "can" use spray foam to "prefill" your joints (what he did right before taping them), but sparingly and being sure to cut it completely flush.
But unless in an extreme situation, I don't think I ever would.
Do what this video has shown. Use either paper tape, mesh tape, or Fibafuse (a thinner fiberglass based product which I use for all patches/new to existing).
Coat as desired (2 to 3 coats).
After final coat, sand and sand somewhat harshly around the edges to blend your coats into the existing texture (you should almost be able to start seeing your existing texture through your own own work, but only at the edges maybe 1/2" to 1" in depending on size of patch).
Match texture by having it slowly fan out into existing. If it's a texture with lots of coverage, you can make it thinner where your mud is the most built up, because depending on the texture, the texture itself should be no different in pattern, but the thickness of the mud will actually make it appear more flat/uniform (keep in mind, with drywall nothing is flat, but it's the job of the professional to make it appear flat).
I'm not trying to be rude, I just want to make it clear, there is way things are done, and a reason for them.
I wouldn't come into your workplace and start making stuff up when I myself am uninformed.
I'm all for people DIY'ing but at the same time, I pay people to do work that I'm not comfortable doing myself, there is no shame in anyone else doing the same.
If you are using mesh tape you HAVE to use HOT MUD (they did in the video but no mention of having to use it with mesh tape). Using pre-mixed mud, the joint will be prone to failing as pre-mixed mud shrinks about 20% when it dries and won't grip the threads in the tape). Read the label on the mesh tape if you don't believe me. If you don't have hot mud, then use regular paper tape.
Don't know about that bud never had one fail
@@jamesalbrecht418 Now you do ;)
@@wally7856 na I found in the long run in Australia the paper tape always fails after 5 years see it every day and our pre mix mud we have a few types base,top,finish the base does not shrink at all
@@jamesalbrecht418 dude the people that make the product mesh tape says to use hot mud in the first coat
@@NunYaaBizz as I said we have a pre mixed hot mud called base coat
This is how a professional does drywall repair. Telling your average person to mix their own mud and apply 4-5 coats with different compounds is more than a little overkill. I think for your average DIYer it's more than sufficient to fit a drywall patch into the hole and seal it in with joint compound, then sand the result to get it smooth. Repeat as needed until the repair blends in.
Personally, I don't put in a backing or use tape. I take the piece of drywall that is going in the hole, apply compound around the edges so it will stick in the hole. Let that dry and then apply a top coat to get the wall even. Sand and apply one more coat if needed. I've never used backing, mesh, or tape for repairs and never had a problem with the result. 🤷♂
My concern with any hole over a couple of inches without backing is that joint compound is pretty weak, and the likelihood of knocking out the patch is pretty good.
That was my thought too. Overkill, but it is how to do it at the highest level.
I agree with the multiple coat overkill but this isn't necessarily a 'pro' method, it is how a quality DIY'er does (maybe just two coats of good mud). It is not that hard to do right...I use 1x3's for backing and mesh tape
...how much could this cost?? Not using either is pretty amateurish and somewhere down the line when someone tries to hang a picture on your crummy patch, you're gonna look foolish when your patch caves in, just because you were too lazy or unskilled to do it right.
I did this to method to fill an outlet hole that was placed wrong. I ran into problems with getting the drywall filler piece to stay in place and at the right depth. It's an out of the way patch and I managed to get it done but my best result was a large hole up near our celling in the main living room that I opened up for wiring. That thin drywall repair tape that I think he used in this video worked great. I spread one very thin layer of premixed drywall mud over it to cover the tape and fill the gaps. Let it dry, applied some orange peal and painted. Turned out so well that you have to know it's there to find it.
lol not even close to pro level
Perfect timing. I’m a fall risk from CMT, and have fallen and either pulled down something supposedly anchored in the wall, or pushed something into a wall leaving a hole gouged into it. I’m about to undertake fixing some of these holes. Thanks!
Yeah try it at the store. They will love you for that!!! Some people might prefer using some other type of spreader for the joint compound. This only shows their inexperience. Done right you don't need top coat. Use a primer like Kilz after the area has dried completely. Let that dry completely by the directions on the container. There are other ways to repair a hole but this method spreads the load over a wider area. Most people won't notice the difference between a sprayed on texture from a can and a texture from a tacky paint roller. Just paint the area normally using the normal amount of paint and as the roller runs out of paint it will leave tips that resemble texture. Not as much but if you are a cheapskate like me or can't afford the $20 can of spray this method will be enough for most people. If you don't like the results you can always add the texture later.
Thanks, these videos are very informative for women who like doing they own home repairs.
Informative for men and women!
thx for this i was waiting for full dry between coats and sanding in between
Everyone can be a critic, but thanks. These tips give a DIYer like me a different way to do a patch...I did them before and some look great, some not so much. I did not know about the top coat mud, so will look into it. I keep both 20-minute and 5-minute hot mud in 5 gal buckets, so that when needed, I have it w/o having to run to the store.
inside a closet..
if it was in a disguisable location, how important is it for all the tools/time $
This was great. Got like 3 holes I need to repair. Glad I saw this before tackling them. Thank you!
Just use mesh tape spackling compound and a sanding square. Save money and time
That was a very good demonstration and it turned out excellent, good job.
Williams is the best at this, he does the best job. I recommend him. :)
Appreciate the vid. Verifies to another which I didn't agree on their approach. Yuh live, yuh Learn...
My problem is the wall I'm trying to patch is textured, I cannot get a clean consistant layer applied. I'm hoping ill just sand it down to smooth it all out.
Add some dish detergent in your joint compound if you want it to be silkier when mixing. It won't compromise the joint compound and makes a noticeable difference. If you do a California patch, you don't need backing or tape. It's more difficult but it is a cleaner installation, IMO.
I 100% agree!
This is a pretty decent method. I cut a perfect square with about 1inch added. Then you scar the paper to the exact cut, break those extra inches off and remove the drywall. This will give you an exact fit with its own paper as the backing. Can mix with hotter water for a faster dry.
Yes, generally known as a California Patch and is very simple and basic to use
In my opinion it's a much better job and no screws required .
@@lesmatthews6684 But will this work on a larger hole, like 18" x 24"? I have not seen any california patches that big.
@@lou-nc4rc I think that would be a little big for a California patch, especially if it is an area that might get hit again. Only takes a few minutes to install some kind of backing.
@@lou-nc4rcif you have a 18x24" hole or anything close to 16" you may as well make a patch that goes from stud to stud... Even if i had a 13" hole i would cutout my patch to attach to the studs directly...
His knowledge is impressive
Wouldn’t it be easier to cut the square drywall patch piece to size first then trace around it?
You could do that, but you don't necessarily want the piece of drywall to be too tight of a fit to make it hard to get in place
Great tips on how to patch a hole!
Very good instruction... didnt need to see the hole being made LOL ...but the fix was good video !
Great info and tips, thank you!
I found that plastic filler spreaders (Bondo Spreaders) work better than drywall trowels, putty knifes, due the the spreaders flexability.
Thank You Guyz 🙏
Great video. Could you & Williams show us how to fix an improper drywall patch? I believe another poster mentioned this in the comments. So just cut it out & follow this procedure?
Heartily recommend putting the orange peel in a bucket of hot weather no matter what the temperature.
I'm not a drywall professional. Every time I patch something and try to match the texture (typically knock down) it looks pretty good until I apply paint. Then, for some reason, the discontinuity jumps out at you. Generally, the error is towards too much texture. This takes a lot of experience to get right. Or you need to get lucky.
After the texture dries give it WIDE light sand. 220 grit sandpaper. Finally, you need to always two coat your paint. See if that works for you. I've done this work commercially for 22 years.
Try working with a light next to the wall and off to the side when sanding. This helps you see the texture via shadows.
Use a primer under your paint
@@Reesicup I always do.
Always use taping mud when applying the tape and use your proper finishing mud for your next Coates, also use a trowel on patches as you get the best flat result..
Love your channel. Thanks for doing this!
Man, you’re doing what HGTV used to be! Kudos
As for drywall, I hate it 😂 I’m too impatient
Another mistake DIYers make is "wet sanding" the premixed stuff. Sure, wet sanding cuts down on dust but wet sanding the premixed stuff usually rehydrates the mix and too much of the mud comes off, leaving voids and exposing the tape. To cut down on dust small thin repeated layers is the way to go, only put on enough mud to hide lines and only sand off enough to feather it.
love this, thanks man !
A little confused. Why clean up the hole in the beginning if you end up getting a square that is much larger than the damage anyways.
To see how far the damage goes. Sometimes it's torn more than you see.
Great video, stick with this format. Entertaining, professional, and gives information fast. This could be on hgtv haha.
Great Video! I never seen any Dry Wall Repairs done with Multy Coats. They all used just one? So this was diffrerent. Cost more too. Im sure harder to sand will not be a big deal though. You can sand wood which is not a big deal and harder then this. So Im going to assume that why they just stick with One Compound? Saves time and money?
Thanks for sharing
So should you not use those "applies pink dries white" stuff?
Great video!!!
Great video.
I removed wallpaper, and pulled the top layer in a few small sections. I've done some research, and know that I have to cover the exposed brown paper, with something like Zinsser GARDZ or BIN, or some other type of sealer. At that point, what type of mud is recommended. Can I just get away with a layer of the blue top TOPPING mud and sand it down before primer and paint?
After removed wallpaper apply at least two or three coats of sealer otherwise the brown paper becomes a nightmare 😅. Then just follow the steps on the video. Maybe you’ll need an extra coat of mud just because of the brown paper peeling off.
Try using a hole saw like for can lights 6 inch circle
What about supporting the original drywall edges?
Also with Multy Coats and different compounds. Does not look like you waited 24 hours for each to dry? You just put one over the Top? Is that correct?
You don't need to wait 24 hours. They're made for 5mins, 15mins, 20mins, etc.
On the camera close up I think maybe it could do with another thin top coat.
Nice
Wouldn’t it be better if you cut out some of the drywall paper to lay in the tape so when you apply the joint compound you don’t need to put so much mud to blend it flat?
Lovely job🤣🤘🤘
Do you need to use any sort of special paint or primer when you're done?
yes, you have to colour match the paint
If I have some of the original paint and am going to use that, I've gotten best results by applying a thin layer of sealer over the dried plaster before painting it. It now won't absorb the paint at a faster rate than the surrounding painted wall and will therefore blend much better.
Get some paint stir sticks at Lowe's. Use a hot glue gun to glue them sticking them into the hole front to back. Wrap some mesh tape onto the sticks for compound support. That's your backing/support. Then, slap on some compound. Sand and repeat until smooth. Paint. You're done.
Skip-trowel texture?
Any tips on matching it when patching?
Use fine sand.
Wow, this ‘Williams’ not only tears off the loose chunks and drops them into the wall, but pulls off and risks damaging the outer paper and enlarging the required patch, @ 0:52 ? Who does that?
Wow @ 02:20! Cockeyed and irregular cutout, and poor fitting patch! I, umm, just don't get it? Not even going to comment on the way he put the backing ‘sticks’ in. Stopped watching shortly after that point, but I did watch William tape and mud the patch, and what a fantastic job. Very good technique. 👍
So, a fist-sized hole became a huge patch. I don't know how that's a job well done.
Huge? Lol
dont forget to get the drywall dust off before you do anything else.
Great video
But question
Green lid is to fill in the gaps
and Blue lid will be the top layer allowing to easily sand?
Also how many coats of green and blue is necessary?
Thank you
This can vary somewhat on the repair, but for ones like in this video, you'll typically have one coat of green lid (or hot mud) under the mesh tape, just to get things level again, then two more on top. Once those are dry, you use one coat of blue lid as the surface/texture layer.
@@LRN2DIY I don't know if this a U.S vs Canada thing, but when I look at the Canadian Home Depot site, The All Purpose lid is blue rather than green.
The hardest part is matching knock down texture.
Can i use spackle instead of mud? And can o use just one type of spackle for all layers?
You’ll likely see layer issues if you do that on a hole that is deep or all the way through the drywall. If you want to try it, I’d do multiple lighter layers.
sure! rest assured if that spot is ever punched again the spackle wont break!
With a hole that small, you don't have to put a sheet rock plug, just put a stir stick behind it and mud over. Been doing it this way for years. No problem.
"just put a stir stick behind it and mud over"
That's exactly what they did...
He meant do the stir stick without the sheet rock plug
I’ve done this before successfully by just putting really thick crumbled cardboard paper in the hole and then applying the mud. That gives the mud something to attach to. It’s been five years and it’s still looks good.
Kyle knows all about this.. 👿
Why trim the hole when it’s cut all out anyway?
To eliminate the paper edge that your mud knife would get caught on and gives you something to fill flush. There's a much faster stronger way to fill these.
Very informative but it would have been nice to have an explanation of what orange peel was so I didn't have to leave the video and Google it.
That is one way but there is a way to do it without wood , it's called a hot patch and it takes me about 10 minutes to do.
The only comment I have is that you assumed half inch drywall. You should have at least made a comment to confirm the thickness of the drywall. Some older homes have 3/8 and some have 5/8 in bathrooms. You also should mention plaster walls, even to suggest calling a professional.
Great feedback!
Shoutout to Williams lol
Brutal.
I bought a new home which is a model home so I notice a spot on my wall seems softer than the surrounding area when I touch it so I think the builder didn't patch the drywall correctly
i would've been happy after the first layer
Don't stick saws or drills into walls without ascertaining there are no pipes or electrical lines there FIRST!
Don't forget about gas pipes as well
The stereotype of grown men punching things when they're triggered is not something you want to perpetuate.
Mesh tape just makes things harder to blend and NEVER layer the tape at the corners. Adding unnecessary thickness is counterproductive.
I've repaired more than one "temper" hole in our drywall, usually from teenagers. In fact I'd say that's been the major source of needing to patch walls over many decades of home ownership. And everyone I know just nods in sympathy when I mention it - so not so sure it's a stereotype (apart from the "grown men" part).
Also, though I tend to agree on the older mesh tapes, there's a newer one (I think it's called fibafuse, only ever needed to buy one roll) which almost melts into the joint compound and is very strong. I had to open a wall recently to fix an issue and that stuff was amazing on the patch.
Stereotype? I don't think there are any types of stereos here - I think what Learn2DYI is telling all of us is, "Look... Don't f*** with me, a**h***!!!" 😏...
I've been trying to do this for 30 years. I hate the 5 minute stuff. It starts to harden as you're still applying it on.
5 minute mud is used mainly for painters that work in large apartment complexes that have to paint 2-3 apartments a day , the 5 minute compound needs to quickly repair any minor damage . The mud dries fast enough to be paintable in about 30 minutes .
Use 15mins or 20mins
Driving theose screws in can and will become a thing. You gotta have a sense of pressure on your drill. If you paint or play any type of musical instrument, you'll know what I'm talking bout
Am I the only one who's ocd wanted that piece of wood to be straight like the other at 4:09
Nice video, but I laughed when Williams started talking and then the subtitle comes out...
Is there a lump on the wall now tho? Or is it flush?
Why would there be a lump on the wall?
There is a lump, but it is so broad and gradual it is not noticeable. That’s why each layer of mud gets wider and is tiered on the edges.
@@TomCee53 There is no lump unless you applied way too much joint compound. After sanding, it will be flush with the rest of the wall.
just use a can of foam fill it cut the excess off when dried mud it sand it walk away.
that i do in australia , it works fine , depending on the size of hole
very Lengthy process ,our patch takes less than an hour and ready to paint with no sanding; No BS !
I could yooz anything for a backing, but can I use this 30 lb. marble slab?!? I don't have any wood pieces. 🙂
@@bentonrp I've used drywall for backing out drywall...if you're careful. Pilot holes in the patch piece works best.
@@readmore3634 Good job, you! ...That ain't easy! :)
keyhole saw
What's orange peel?
Drywallers are special breed of people
no V cuts?
use the new fibreglass tape. is much stronger and better overall.
V cuts eliminates all that stir stick and/or stuffed paper backing b.s.! At least a v-cut on two opposing sides, all four is twice as strong. V-cut (or angle cut as some people call it) all eight edges. The existing four sides of the hole in the wall and the four sides of your piece of drywall patch. The "face" of the v-cut on the existing wall will prevent the new piece of drywall from getting pushed through when the patch piece of drywalls v-cut face is preesed to the walls face. Then apply your tape and mud. If you've matched the patch size to the hole size well enough, you don't even need the tape...
Use that jab saw para el pan!
You did not show that A drywall knife has a curve to it. It should be used where the center of the knife is away from the wall.
I hate using the tape because it makes it impossible to the patch level with the wall
I will follow your channel, compare Nebula Cosmos Laser 4K projector with epson 4010 cinema
up
up
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up
you sure this guy does drywall?
Use Fibafuse instead.
yeah, except one thing, instead of putting those 2 nails through the wall to hold the timber
you could have just as easily (and it would hold better) use Liquid nails on the back of the timber so it sticks to the inside of the wall and you could have done the same for the piece you stick to the timber .
No holes to worry about
Please also react to Regine Velasquez and Morissette Amon. Thanks!
Wouldn't it be funny if, when they were cutting out the patch opening, the'yD chew through some "ROMEX"...
How would it be that close to the drywall
Here's our drywall specialist, what do you call this? 😄
you really need to add subtitles ?
There are deaf people in the world, yes.
Why did you give him subtitles I can understand him just fine.
Maybe others can't
Wow, all that effort just for one hole.
That was all great until he actually began perfectly applying the drywall compound.
Sooo, magic. My mistake is that I don’t know magic.
Malcolm this comment made me spit up my milk. Lol. So funny. And yeah, I agree that they completely missed explaining the muscle mechanics of spackling. I’m not bad at it, but the dude here is… very experienced. Lol.
In reality this will be just a little insight and practice is up to you, but the way to get good is:
- Prep the area so nothing sits ‘higher’ (bulges) out beyond the flush wall. Troughs are ok. Bulges are not.
- First swipes to fill the troughs and light coat the seams.
- Second coat to feather out the edges of your repair at least 8”
- now lean into a nice wide taping knife 8,10 or 12” pushing harder on the outside edge of the repair. After both sides get a good swipe, come straight down the middle with even gentle pressure and a flat attack angle to tidy up the ridges.
Practice makes perfect of course.
.
Keyhole saw…
Is this in Hawaii?
Utah
Maybe 65-70% of the job is good, 30-35% is wrong to get good quality.