The only thing I have issue with what he said was no to the knives as stripping tools. They are valid stripping tools for individual conductors. However, they become more efficient on larger conductors. Always keep the knife sharp because that means less pressure to cut the insulation meaning it's less likely you're going to nick the conductors.
In the graphic showing how to gauge 12 AWG and 14 AWG using the nickel and dime, the labels “12 AWG” and “14 AWG” are reversed. 12 should point toward the nickel, and 14 toward the dime.
I am a homeowner and have had formal training on electrical wiring. Two things on stripping the jacket of the wire. I always strip the jacket before inserting in the box. Secondly I strip the jacket off by scoring down the centre line of the wire, essentially along the ground wire between the white and black conductors. I then pull on the jacket to the point where the jacket begins to fold over the outside of the unsliced jacket. I can the safely cut around the folded back portion and not have to worry about nicking the wires. This leaves a really nice look to the cable inside the box. I know that a pro would no bother with this but it gives me great satisfaction the have the confidence that no wires were damaged during the installation.
I spent over 12 years of my younger life doing mostly residential wiring, and worked with literally miles of romex. All metal boxes back then. I would always strip the jacket off the romex before pushing it into the box, then tightening the clamp. I still do it that way today for remodel and new work. I never could grasp why a person would shove the romex into a box, and then have to fight to get the jacket off without damaging the conductors. Just strip the jacket out in the open, then push it into the box. Quicker, neater, safer.
How are you stripping the sheathing out of the box? Romex strippers? Even with those you can damage the wire so nothing is foolproof of course. You really have to try to kill the wire with a utility knife in the box to damage it. Especially how he described, I mean was he sawing at the cable to cut the conductor like that? A light score on the jacket and pull to separate. I usually don't even cut through. Especially on newer wire where the sheath is thinner. Older Romex may be a different story. But either way is fine, in or out of the box, whichever way you want to think 😉
@@TallGuyChris, thanks for the input. To be fair, a large majority of my time spent with Romex was in the 70s and 80s. Before the color coded jackets that are now thinner. There were no Romex strippers back then, at least not any that worked worth a darn. My tool of choice was an electricians knife and side-cutters. Out in the open, I could strip off 6 to 8 inches of jacket in a couple of seconds. Like you said, either way is fine, as long as the conductor insulation is not compromised. I'll stick with my old tried and true. 😉
the end with the ethernet cable... the way I was taught, with how it leaves the jacket with the stressed end would have been a fail in all my networking or mechanical classes; a nice straight cut was always required. I have always used a knife (usually a lbb xacto blade) or an actual network wire stripper for them. Network twisted pair wires are not just a random twist, but they are pairs of wires with each twisted at a different rate, to deal with cross-talk; a pull stripper like that grips and pulls the inner wires, messing up the twists, and could even break one or more of the thin wires. With Cat-6 and higher, it also has a plastic spline in the middle, which would resist it, and if the edges of that get on the wires, it could put a stress on it, and cause damage.
Those Knipix wire stripper, cutter, plier are freakin awesome. One design feature that I really like is that there's a 'bump' between every other guage rather than all the teeth being the same level. When working in low light and or poor eyesight, it's easy to distinguish between 12 and 14 etc. They are also very precise and sharp.
Just got an EGO Chain Saw 40cc Equiv. it works great for what I need it for so far. I plan on cutting down a maybe 32 inch Maple the fall winter. We'll see I never use the gas one enough to keep the gas fresh and always had issues starting it when I did need it.
Good video. I added a 20 amp circuit to my garage in 2020. Of course my panel is on the opposite basement wall. I bought 12-2 wGround UV/buried romex, that is *grey*. At the time I saved $25 over the cost of yellow romex. I checked the code, there is no prohibition to using this indoors. Slightly harder to strip, but I only stripped 2 ends. The price changed later, but at the time it was good to have the extra $25!
Never bury regular Romex, it must be rated for direct burial, Type UF, (underground feeder) It must be buried to the correct depth. Check with the current NEC code and also local code which may be even stricter, or even prohibit it. Running single conductors in PVC conduit is usually a better choice. It is much less likely to be damaged by a careless shovel.
I always make my cut with the strippers, then move the strippers up a bit and grab the insulation before pulling it off. Makes it a lot easier to strip stranded wire.
I've never found a need for wire stripers. I use wire cutters to nick the outer sheath, then pull to remove it. For the individual cores I just use my thumbnail.
For color coding, CerroMax now has 12-3 as purple and 14-3 as light blue to differentiate them from 12-2 (yellow) and 14-2 (white). Really threw me off since home depot started stocking the new colors mid project and I couldn't find 14-3 anymore.
Take the sheathing off the Romex before you stick it into the box. Job done. While you're at it leave a service loop so things don't look so stressed out.
Lots of great points. However the old simple style stripper crimper works well if you have the flat side of the striper toward the direction of the end you are pulling off the sheath. Also with Romax and other round three wire cords, I cut the outer coating with a smother tip wire cutters between 2 of the wires as to avoid any cuts I don't want cut or nicked.
Back when I was repairing black boxes for Aircraft, we had to use thermal strippers only. They melted the insultation and never nicked or cut the actual wire at all. It would be interesting to have something like that for house wiring. But I wired tons of house wirings and maybe once or twice I nicked the wire in all those times. Not a great feeling when you do that even accidently... Thumbs Up!
I recycle copper for fun. A pair of pliers. Pinch the side a few cm from end, with pliers, pull pliers to end, done. I usually however, strip all the plastic off. Pinch both sides with 2 pairs of pliers, remove the insulation at that point, grab a wire on either side, pull, allowing the cable to twist as you do so. Keep the insulation! You can mix it with acetone and stuff it in cracks in flooring, walls, etc
Look, I was a particularly dumb child growing up, but I could flawlessly strip wires with scissors during all the various projects I was doing, because I did not have access to a dedicated tool. Admittedly it was the only thing I ever did right when attempting all those things, but thats for another time.
I have more "automatic" wire strippers than you can count - not because I like them at all, but because I keep looking for one that actually works. In the end, whenever anything is critical, I always go back to the manual razor knife, because I get a clean cut, at the length I want, and I can feel the metal and avoid cutting into anything but insulation. Automatic strippers can work fine all dsay long, but it's just guaranteed when you get down to the last cut, and you don't have any extra length to work with, so the cut HAS to be right, it will simply rip through the wire as if you had used your wire cutter, and you're good to tear open a finished wall or re-do an enclosure.
I have had to remove wires with scissors when I didn't have wire strippers, and it performed flawlessly without causing any damage to the wire. If you don't possess the appropriate tool, you sometimes have to improvise. It's not about what's ideal; it's about utilizing what you have available to get the job done.
Good video, my man. Just one request: Given that these videos are viewed outside the US, please put a disclaimer at their beginning . All electrical and plumbing work must be carried out by licenced tradies. Greetings from Australia.
This is all well and good for solid core wire but here in Australia all the wire i have ever worked with or come across has been stranded wires. And we dont leave bare wires hanging around in our walls and such even if it is just a ground
I laughed out loud at the side effects cutaway clip. Not so much at the chainsaw red alert. Ha! Comedy is one of the toughest things in the world. I also learned something today, about thicker gauge wire grounds not necessarily being the same thickness as the rest of the wires in the cable. Very well done as per usual.
I agree with everything you showed except for the ethernet wire brute force stripping. That may work for cheap Home Depot cable, but not for quality cable. For that you need a special cutter first.
I have started working with small gauge wires (24-30) in my retirement hobby. Any advice on stripping small gauge would be great, or point me in the direction of a channel that deals with it. BTW, I did a lot of my own home improvements and repairs over the years and I sure wish this channel had been available then. Thanks!
A thumb nail can strip small gauge wire easily. Assuming you're not doing alot of it. Bell wire and smaller are not too tough to cut the insulation with your thumb nail without really hurting the copper inside
Prayer. I spent many years terminating audio cable like Beldin 9451. I used razor blades, a knife, a stripper that someone else ordered and gave me. Check with your cable supplier to see if they recommend a stripper.
I have been wiring switch boards for years and Im a little dubious of the automatic strippers. Unlike house wiring switch boards use stranded wire and many of these automatic strippers tend to break some of the strands as they are self setting for insulation depth. The cutters with a flat blade seem to be worse as they cut down into the wire bundle more as they try to break the insulation on the sides that is not cut. The knipex are better as the have a V cutter and they are easier to get at the wire in tighter locations but they can still damage the strains especially on finer wires. For finer wires I tend to use a wire wrap stripping tool as it has a V cutter but has more depth control. For heavier wire I use a coax stripper set to slightly less than the sheath thickness and use cutters to pull and tear the insulation.
I've used that sheathing splitter tool for years for Ethernet cable. Had no clue about the wirenut and j hook features. Hadn't ever thought to use it when working with high voltage wire.
Electrical code dictates that a device ground never needs to be thicker than a 10 gauge wire. This is generally why certain wires have different ground sizes, usually being 10awg for all sizes. Obviously there are always exceptions, and this is only DEVICE grounding, so other grounding applications need heavier gauge wire. But generally, you'll run into that more often. And if you are in a business that installs large devices, check the correct sizing of your device ground. You might be able to save a lot of money if you've been buying 6awg grounding wire, and code only requires you to use 10awg. Don't take my word for it though, check! There's so many scenarios that could potentially change this.
I wired my house 28 years ago) using a Calterm Protect. The perfect stripper, … that is not available anywhere, it appears. It was designed to clamp on the insulation and pull it straight off. The only way to damage a wire was to use too small a hole. Nearly idiot proof. I guess it went away because it was more expensive than the cheap to make strippers.
Given the comments concerning getting the correct gauge, it seems it should be mentioned that the cheap, adjustable strippers should be avoided. Only use strippers with actual fixed dies for the cutting. How do you accurately ensure the correct gauge when it depends on a slider? Those were banned at my work decades before I retired.
I have a random question: You used the exact same light housing I used in my basement when I finished it. The electrical wiring isn't accessible now that the drywall is up because the boxes are outside of the dome where the light goes. If something were to ever come loose, how are you supposed to access the electrical box?
Access to the J-box is through the light opening. The fixtures I am familiar with were designed so the housing shell was removable to access the J-box after finishes. The J-boxes had a removable cover on both sides of the box: outer cover to rough fixture in, inner cover to access through the light opening. All J-boxes “SHALL” be accessible.
Ideal Reflex Super T strippers are excellent and durable. I've worked over 12000 hours in the trade, and avoid bad work and bad tools, and strongly prefer tools made in countries which I hope pay fair wages and handle waste properly. These are made in the US.
I use the cheapest wire stripper on the market. That one that has the dial for different guages and it's just two flat stock pieces of metal with rubber dipped flat handles. Once, I had a guy try throwing me under the bus for using "not the right tool," but all my connections passed, and half of his failed. They sent me in to fix his mistakes. Find a tool you're good with and stick with it, I say. But I also got them steady hands for fiber connections so 🤷.
I worked in high reliability tools for harsh environments and I cringe when you just pull the strippers right off. You can get away with it if your carefull on solid wire but if it is stranded wire you are going to damage the wire. Thermal strippers are the only way to go if you absolutely can't damage the wire. Use your fingernails or the plier tip of the strippers to grip the jacket and pull it off.
Chainsaw wire stripping, I was reminded of Gallagher, when he noted that his Sledge-O-Matic could EVEN make Julienne fries, but you gotta hit that sucker JUST right.
nothing beats heating the insulator with a lighter and just pulling it off with pliers when you are in a jam. works especially well with stranded wire of all gages when you don't have the appropriate size of strippers for stranded. also works well if you did not stripp enough off and just want to shrink it down a bit. ..awaiting the aftermath of my comment.
take a small cutter, make a quick cut where you want the insulator removed, hold both parts as hard as you can with each hand and then pull, you should have the insulator tube removed, if you can not do this like that you have to go and take a manicure, with long nails it might be easier.
Those cheap Carlon blue boxes do not have any sort of integral clamping means. You just break those knockouts out of the entrances you are using, and staple within 8" of the box.
Working with multi strand wire is so much better than single strand wire. So far as to say I wish that single strand wire is to be banned for light and power circuits. Saying that the power outlets in Australia is so much superior than the US counterparts
You can use a knife for stripping. Was done that way for decades and if trained properly you can do it. I don't because it's simply way faster to use a stripper. But think of it this way if you are adament about not using a knife. If you are stripping #8, #2, #000 whatever large conductor you are doing, how are you doing it there? Often its a knife right? Works the same for smaller conductors, just don't be an idiot when doing it. For the ground conductor size, just this week I came across some older NMB that had #12 conductors but a #16 ground. At first I thought the ground was #14 but then I'm like "Wait a minute, lets check that." Sure enough it was a tiny little 16. Don't see that often.
Worked many years for a large commercial aircraft manufacturing plant in the Puget Sound area, of course I won't name names but their wire strippers, while maintained, are older than most of the people working there. They suck.
I worked in electronics an on aircraft (avionics tech) for over 25 years and I would never use that type of wire stripper. It's too easy to make mistakes. Get the type that all you have to do is select the well marked wire size, insert the amount you want stripped and squeeze the handles together. It's almost idiot proof.
Fact is, most electrical wiring products used in the US are not made for or safe for most DIYers to use. They're not designed like Legos; they're really meant for people who already know what to do and not do. If you're not a 'skilled amateur', what's really probably best is to buy a not-the-cheapest automatic wire stripper -- AND to watch videos like this. Yes, this stuff can be done by amateurs, but amateurs often won't have any idea when they do or don't screw something up, so they want it to be as automatic as possible.
What I’ve ask other UA-camrs is where do you get your information on all these subjects that DIYers are making all these mistakes. I have looked on various subjects presented on UA-camrs channels and have never found an Internet article stating all these DIYers mistakes.
Great stuff... always enjoy your channel, and I'm one your (now 1.24M) subs. Keep the advice coming! As to the amount of wire to strip, stripping too long is definitely an opportunity for a short, arcing, etc. However, stripping too short is a myth. If the wire has "the thickness of a nickel" then you only need that same thickness contacting the terminal screw to get 100% ampacity. Any more is just pleasing UA-cam stripping nazis. If you think of a wire length as a finite series of disks aligned together to form a wire, the area of the disk is where the ampacity is carried, and if that same area amount contacts the terminal the job is done. J-Hooks are cute, and if they extend past the screw they're too long. And if they go 180° around the screw it's wasted contact. Don't be that stripper nazi. If it's a 10AWG wire then 10AWG worth of contact with the terminal is sufficient. Yeah, auto strippers are da bom'. So are Romex box-strippers. No more working the 3/4 wires individually. $15-$25 at AMZ and well worth it. Now if only someone would invent a stripper that does Romex + auto gauge + Cat5-Cat6 lv + table dances...
I appreciate the fact that you are trying to teach me something, but I am watching this on a phone and your tool adds are taking up all of the real estate that the words you put on screen are in so I can't read any of that. Thank you anyways
Meh, I don't use wire strippers for most work, they're useless. Only time I will use a wire strippers is on wires that need sleeves, because then I use a 3 in 1 tool that cuts the wire, strips it and applies sleeves. Since I already need a special tool for the jobb, might as well use the 3 in 1 for stripping too.
Oh good, another one of those "I just learned something and I think I am so extra special smart that if I just learned it, it must be that everyone else is still doing it wrong like I did for years", videos. Nope, it was just you. Only idiots need, or make as if it's a revelation, a video about wire stripping.
Too much banal, simplistic advises - waste of time. And strippers on 9:05 are not the best you can have. Look for almost same strippers, but with ROUND blades (where you have to select a hole according to wire) - they cut isolation AROUND the wire, not "top & bottom" (like your blue stripper). Heh... seems I know about wires more, than "youtube couch".
I'm a 25 year electrician. This man is speaking facts while making it entertaining. Great job brother!!
The only thing I have issue with what he said was no to the knives as stripping tools. They are valid stripping tools for individual conductors. However, they become more efficient on larger conductors. Always keep the knife sharp because that means less pressure to cut the insulation meaning it's less likely you're going to nick the conductors.
Who are you? His father, brother?
@@nothankyou5524speak of family how’s your mother? 😂
Well I'm a 26 year electrician.... and he is indeed speaking facts while being entertaining 😂
In the graphic showing how to gauge 12 AWG and 14 AWG using the nickel and dime, the labels “12 AWG” and “14 AWG” are reversed. 12 should point toward the nickel, and 14 toward the dime.
Yep. Was just about to say that, myself. It's okay. Nils is great and I love his videos but, he, like most of the rest of us, is only human.👽
@@Lakusus agreed. This is a great channel.
I was hoping I wasn't the only person to see that too :D
Ditto
Good catch, rontiemens. I saw that too. Good to point out.
I am a homeowner and have had formal training on electrical wiring. Two things on stripping the jacket of the wire. I always strip the jacket before inserting in the box. Secondly I strip the jacket off by scoring down the centre line of the wire, essentially along the ground wire between the white and black conductors. I then pull on the jacket to the point where the jacket begins to fold over the outside of the unsliced jacket. I can the safely cut around the folded back portion and not have to worry about nicking the wires. This leaves a really nice look to the cable inside the box.
I know that a pro would no bother with this but it gives me great satisfaction the have the confidence that no wires were damaged during the installation.
I spent over 12 years of my younger life doing mostly residential wiring, and worked with literally miles of romex. All metal boxes back then. I would always strip the jacket off the romex before pushing it into the box, then tightening the clamp. I still do it that way today for remodel and new work. I never could grasp why a person would shove the romex into a box, and then have to fight to get the jacket off without damaging the conductors. Just strip the jacket out in the open, then push it into the box. Quicker, neater, safer.
How are you stripping the sheathing out of the box? Romex strippers? Even with those you can damage the wire so nothing is foolproof of course. You really have to try to kill the wire with a utility knife in the box to damage it. Especially how he described, I mean was he sawing at the cable to cut the conductor like that? A light score on the jacket and pull to separate. I usually don't even cut through. Especially on newer wire where the sheath is thinner. Older Romex may be a different story. But either way is fine, in or out of the box, whichever way you want to think 😉
@@TallGuyChris, thanks for the input. To be fair, a large majority of my time spent with Romex was in the 70s and 80s. Before the color coded jackets that are now thinner. There were no Romex strippers back then, at least not any that worked worth a darn. My tool of choice was an electricians knife and side-cutters. Out in the open, I could strip off 6 to 8 inches of jacket in a couple of seconds. Like you said, either way is fine, as long as the conductor insulation is not compromised. I'll stick with my old tried and true. 😉
the end with the ethernet cable... the way I was taught, with how it leaves the jacket with the stressed end would have been a fail in all my networking or mechanical classes; a nice straight cut was always required. I have always used a knife (usually a lbb xacto blade) or an actual network wire stripper for them. Network twisted pair wires are not just a random twist, but they are pairs of wires with each twisted at a different rate, to deal with cross-talk; a pull stripper like that grips and pulls the inner wires, messing up the twists, and could even break one or more of the thin wires. With Cat-6 and higher, it also has a plastic spline in the middle, which would resist it, and if the edges of that get on the wires, it could put a stress on it, and cause damage.
Worked in manufacturing electronics for 41 yrs. He's teaching facts folks! Great video!
I did as well. Turns out the gap between my front teeth were perfect for 'telephone' wire used for breadboarding :)
Those Knipix wire stripper, cutter, plier are freakin awesome. One design feature that I really like is that there's a 'bump' between every other guage rather than all the teeth being the same level. When working in low light and or poor eyesight, it's easy to distinguish between 12 and 14 etc. They are also very precise and sharp.
I've been a licensed electrician in Australia for 44 years.
Always just used pliers for stripping and don't damage cable.
Just got an EGO Chain Saw 40cc Equiv. it works great for what I need it for so far. I plan on cutting down a maybe 32 inch Maple the fall winter. We'll see I never use the gas one enough to keep the gas fresh and always had issues starting it when I did need it.
Good video. I added a 20 amp circuit to my garage in 2020. Of course my panel is on the opposite basement wall. I bought 12-2 wGround UV/buried romex, that is *grey*. At the time I saved $25 over the cost of yellow romex. I checked the code, there is no prohibition to using this indoors. Slightly harder to strip, but I only stripped 2 ends. The price changed later, but at the time it was good to have the extra $25!
Never bury regular Romex, it must be rated for direct burial, Type UF, (underground feeder) It must be buried to the correct depth. Check with the current NEC code and also local code which may be even stricter, or even prohibit it.
Running single conductors in PVC conduit is usually a better choice. It is much less likely to be damaged by a careless shovel.
I really enjoyed these tips for properly stripping wire in a given situation!
Thank you for this wonderfully informative UA-cam video!
Well done, Sir!
I always make my cut with the strippers, then move the strippers up a bit and grab the insulation before pulling it off. Makes it a lot easier to strip stranded wire.
I've never found a need for wire stripers. I use wire cutters to nick the outer sheath, then pull to remove it. For the individual cores I just use my thumbnail.
For color coding, CerroMax now has 12-3 as purple and 14-3 as light blue to differentiate them from 12-2 (yellow) and 14-2 (white).
Really threw me off since home depot started stocking the new colors mid project and I couldn't find 14-3 anymore.
Take the sheathing off the Romex before you stick it into the box. Job done. While you're at it leave a service loop so things don't look so stressed out.
Lots of great points. However the old simple style stripper crimper works well if you have the flat side of the striper toward the direction of the end you are pulling off the sheath. Also with Romax and other round three wire cords, I cut the outer coating with a smother tip wire cutters between 2 of the wires as to avoid any cuts I don't want cut or nicked.
Back when I was repairing black boxes for Aircraft, we had to use thermal strippers only. They melted the insultation and never nicked or cut the actual wire at all. It would be interesting to have something like that for house wiring. But I wired tons of house wirings and maybe once or twice I nicked the wire in all those times. Not a great feeling when you do that even accidently... Thumbs Up!
Love the humor added to the good information. Subscribed!
I recycle copper for fun. A pair of pliers. Pinch the side a few cm from end, with pliers, pull pliers to end, done. I usually however, strip all the plastic off. Pinch both sides with 2 pairs of pliers, remove the insulation at that point, grab a wire on either side, pull, allowing the cable to twist as you do so. Keep the insulation! You can mix it with acetone and stuff it in cracks in flooring, walls, etc
This is my favorite stripper video of all time
Look, I was a particularly dumb child growing up, but I could flawlessly strip wires with scissors during all the various projects I was doing, because I did not have access to a dedicated tool.
Admittedly it was the only thing I ever did right when attempting all those things, but thats for another time.
I have more "automatic" wire strippers than you can count - not because I like them at all, but because I keep looking for one that actually works.
In the end, whenever anything is critical, I always go back to the manual razor knife, because I get a clean cut, at the length I want, and I can feel the metal and avoid cutting into anything but insulation. Automatic strippers can work fine all dsay long, but it's just guaranteed when you get down to the last cut, and you don't have any extra length to work with, so the cut HAS to be right, it will simply rip through the wire as if you had used your wire cutter, and you're good to tear open a finished wall or re-do an enclosure.
@LRN2DIY 4:57 unfortunately your labeling is backwards on the wire size measurement with coins - but otherwise great content
Still not correct. And agree - overall great content
2:12 You, sir, are a madman. And I love it. This alone is worth a sub.
I have had to remove wires with scissors when I didn't have wire strippers, and it performed flawlessly without causing any damage to the wire. If you don't possess the appropriate tool, you
sometimes have to improvise. It's not about what's ideal; it's about utilizing what you have available to get the job done.
When it comes to electrical safety, improvising like this can kill or burn down your house. Do the job properly or don't do it at all.
Good video, my man.
Just one request: Given that these videos are viewed outside the US, please put a disclaimer at their beginning . All electrical and plumbing work must be carried out by licenced tradies.
Greetings from Australia.
Wow. Not allowed to work on your own property huh? Must be awful living in apsycho tyranny like that.
In aviation, the FAA limits nicks in the wire to no more than three nicks. More than three and you're supposed to trim the end off and try again.
This is all well and good for solid core wire but here in Australia all the wire i have ever worked with or come across has been stranded wires. And we dont leave bare wires hanging around in our walls and such even if it is just a ground
I laughed out loud at the side effects cutaway clip. Not so much at the chainsaw red alert. Ha! Comedy is one of the toughest things in the world. I also learned something today, about thicker gauge wire grounds not necessarily being the same thickness as the rest of the wires in the cable. Very well done as per usual.
I agree with everything you showed except for the ethernet wire brute force stripping. That may work for cheap Home Depot cable, but not for quality cable. For that you need a special cutter first.
I have started working with small gauge wires (24-30) in my retirement hobby. Any advice on stripping small gauge would be great, or point me in the direction of a channel that deals with it. BTW, I did a lot of my own home improvements and repairs over the years and I sure wish this channel had been available then. Thanks!
Thermal wire strippers.
A thumb nail can strip small gauge wire easily. Assuming you're not doing alot of it. Bell wire and smaller are not too tough to cut the insulation with your thumb nail without really hurting the copper inside
Teeth work really good for small wire.
There are small guage wire strippers.
Prayer.
I spent many years terminating audio cable like Beldin 9451. I used razor blades, a knife, a stripper that someone else ordered and gave me. Check with your cable supplier to see if they recommend a stripper.
I have been wiring switch boards for years and Im a little dubious of the automatic strippers. Unlike house wiring switch boards use stranded wire and many of these automatic strippers tend to break some of the strands as they are self setting for insulation depth. The cutters with a flat blade seem to be worse as they cut down into the wire bundle more as they try to break the insulation on the sides that is not cut. The knipex are better as the have a V cutter and they are easier to get at the wire in tighter locations but they can still damage the strains especially on finer wires. For finer wires I tend to use a wire wrap stripping tool as it has a V cutter but has more depth control. For heavier wire I use a coax stripper set to slightly less than the sheath thickness and use cutters to pull and tear the insulation.
I've used that sheathing splitter tool for years for Ethernet cable. Had no clue about the wirenut and j hook features. Hadn't ever thought to use it when working with high voltage wire.
Picked up a universal wire stripper a few years ago for about $25. I'll never go back.
Am surprised you didn't mention a linoleum hooked utility knife for stripping (heh heh) sheathing. Really helps.
Electrical code dictates that a device ground never needs to be thicker than a 10 gauge wire. This is generally why certain wires have different ground sizes, usually being 10awg for all sizes. Obviously there are always exceptions, and this is only DEVICE grounding, so other grounding applications need heavier gauge wire.
But generally, you'll run into that more often. And if you are in a business that installs large devices, check the correct sizing of your device ground. You might be able to save a lot of money if you've been buying 6awg grounding wire, and code only requires you to use 10awg. Don't take my word for it though, check! There's so many scenarios that could potentially change this.
Muito bom seu trabalho! Aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
I wired my house 28 years ago) using a Calterm Protect. The perfect stripper, … that is not available anywhere, it appears. It was designed to clamp on the insulation and pull it straight off. The only way to damage a wire was to use too small a hole. Nearly idiot proof. I guess it went away because it was more expensive than the cheap to make strippers.
I strip the cable before putting it in the box
Excellent!! Thanks...clicked 👍.
2:19 😂😂😂 the chainsaw!!! 😂😂😂
Given the comments concerning getting the correct gauge, it seems it should be mentioned that the cheap, adjustable strippers should be avoided. Only use strippers with actual fixed dies for the cutting. How do you accurately ensure the correct gauge when it depends on a slider? Those were banned at my work decades before I retired.
I have a random question: You used the exact same light housing I used in my basement when I finished it. The electrical wiring isn't accessible now that the drywall is up because the boxes are outside of the dome where the light goes. If something were to ever come loose, how are you supposed to access the electrical box?
I'm not sure I follow - what is the time stamp in the video that you're referring to?
@@LRN2DIY 6:58. The box where the wires get connected is only accessible prior to having the drywall installed.
@@senfo-s5pOh, I see. You’re right - the design is limited in terms of access. You’d have to cut into the ceiling, unfortunately.
Access to the J-box is through the light opening.
The fixtures I am familiar with were designed so the housing shell was removable to access the J-box after finishes.
The J-boxes had a removable cover on both sides of the box: outer cover to rough fixture in, inner cover to access through the light opening.
All J-boxes “SHALL” be accessible.
Well I never!! Who knew? I didn’t!
I mean it’s wire stripping, yet it seems I am guilty of just about all you presented to us.
Thank Nils
Bob
England
Ideal Reflex Super T strippers are excellent and durable. I've worked over 12000 hours in the trade, and avoid bad work and bad tools, and strongly prefer tools made in countries which I hope pay fair wages and handle waste properly. These are made in the US.
Good info as usual *FROM YOU* ! Thanks!
I use the cheapest wire stripper on the market. That one that has the dial for different guages and it's just two flat stock pieces of metal with rubber dipped flat handles. Once, I had a guy try throwing me under the bus for using "not the right tool," but all my connections passed, and half of his failed. They sent me in to fix his mistakes. Find a tool you're good with and stick with it, I say. But I also got them steady hands for fiber connections so 🤷.
Knipex has insulation strippers (12 64 180) that work really well: far better than that last option.
Y do u have sold wire ?
My strippers don't cut, they rip. Works a treat as long as the insulation isn't too flexible.
Yeah, I used to strip wire with my teeth. I'm not proud, but hey, I did do it.
Great content. Thanks!
Believe it or not, the Pittsburgh red handle wire stripper from Harbor Freight work very well!
Good info 👍
Great video!
Remind me not to stop taking my Chantix! Hahaha!
I worked in high reliability tools for harsh environments and I cringe when you just pull the strippers right off. You can get away with it if your carefull on solid wire but if it is stranded wire you are going to damage the wire. Thermal strippers are the only way to go if you absolutely can't damage the wire. Use your fingernails or the plier tip of the strippers to grip the jacket and pull it off.
That CHAIN SAW actually stripped pretty well!!! Who'd a thunk it?
AD0TJ
Chainsaw wire stripping, I was reminded of Gallagher, when he noted that his Sledge-O-Matic could EVEN make Julienne fries, but you gotta hit that sucker JUST right.
The part where you compare coins to the wire gauge, you’ve got the labels (12,14) backwards
nothing beats heating the insulator with a lighter and just pulling it off with pliers when you are in a jam. works especially well with stranded wire of all gages when you don't have the appropriate size of strippers for stranded. also works well if you did not stripp enough off and just want to shrink it down a bit.
..awaiting the aftermath of my comment.
take a small cutter, make a quick cut where you want the insulator removed, hold both parts as hard as you can with each hand and then pull, you should have the insulator tube removed, if you can not do this like that you have to go and take a manicure, with long nails it might be easier.
1:27 yes, even new I wouldn't classify that as a useful tool
7:36 You twisted the wires in the wrong direction...
7:40 the built in wire clamps in the box are missing. Is there a ‘thing’ to break them off? I’m seeing this frequently on the UA-cam’s
Those cheap Carlon blue boxes do not have any sort of integral clamping means. You just break those knockouts out of the entrances you are using, and staple within 8" of the box.
3:11 - How do you use the bare wire to find the gauge BEFORE you’ve stripped off the insulation? 😂
Working with multi strand wire is so much better than single strand wire. So far as to say I wish that single strand wire is to be banned for light and power circuits. Saying that the power outlets in Australia is so much superior than the US counterparts
Sharp pocket knives and patience are your friends.
You can use a knife for stripping. Was done that way for decades and if trained properly you can do it. I don't because it's simply way faster to use a stripper. But think of it this way if you are adament about not using a knife. If you are stripping #8, #2, #000 whatever large conductor you are doing, how are you doing it there? Often its a knife right? Works the same for smaller conductors, just don't be an idiot when doing it. For the ground conductor size, just this week I came across some older NMB that had #12 conductors but a #16 ground. At first I thought the ground was #14 but then I'm like "Wait a minute, lets check that." Sure enough it was a tiny little 16. Don't see that often.
Been stripping wires for the last 187 years. But I still cut some of the strands of stranded wire and have to redo it 7 times.
Nils, I love your stuff. If I could subscribe more than once I would. But, no I won't create additional UA-cam accounts just for that.
just buy one of the fancy ones that strip any size wire
Worked many years for a large commercial aircraft manufacturing plant in the Puget Sound area, of course I won't name names but their wire strippers, while maintained, are older than most of the people working there.
They suck.
Strip the sheath before you put the cable in the box.
Automatic wire strippers. Dad frowned on them. What do folks think here?
You labelled the two coins wrong. You made the nickel be 14 gauge, etc
I worked in electronics an on aircraft (avionics tech) for over 25 years and I would never use that type of wire stripper. It's too easy to make mistakes. Get the type that all you have to do is select the well marked wire size, insert the amount you want stripped and squeeze the handles together. It's almost idiot proof.
I know nothing about wiring electrical what is it?
I used a solider gun to strip my wire.
Now the next video is going to explain POLES.
4:57 your coin graphics are backwards I think.
Fact is, most electrical wiring products used in the US are not made for or safe for most DIYers to use. They're not designed like Legos; they're really meant for people who already know what to do and not do. If you're not a 'skilled amateur', what's really probably best is to buy a not-the-cheapest automatic wire stripper -- AND to watch videos like this. Yes, this stuff can be done by amateurs, but amateurs often won't have any idea when they do or don't screw something up, so they want it to be as automatic as possible.
What I’ve ask other UA-camrs is where do you get your information on all these subjects that DIYers are making all these mistakes. I have looked on various subjects presented on UA-camrs channels and have never found an Internet article stating all these DIYers mistakes.
Unfortunately my living in illinois makes the romex sections of this video irrelevant. Everything is in conduit here
Aw just carefully cut with scissors and pull it off it’s fiiiiiiine
Please clean the camera lens.
Sorry, but may i ask,
Where is the rest of R & E of MEASURE on the T-shirt
Just joking 😂❤
Great stuff... always enjoy your channel, and I'm one your (now 1.24M) subs. Keep the advice coming!
As to the amount of wire to strip, stripping too long is definitely an opportunity for a short, arcing, etc.
However, stripping too short is a myth. If the wire has "the thickness of a nickel" then you only need that same thickness contacting the terminal screw to get 100% ampacity. Any more is just pleasing UA-cam stripping nazis.
If you think of a wire length as a finite series of disks aligned together to form a wire, the area of the disk is where the ampacity is carried, and if that same area amount contacts the terminal the job is done. J-Hooks are cute, and if they extend past the screw they're too long. And if they go 180° around the screw it's wasted contact. Don't be that stripper nazi. If it's a 10AWG wire then 10AWG worth of contact with the terminal is sufficient.
Yeah, auto strippers are da bom'. So are Romex box-strippers. No more working the 3/4 wires individually. $15-$25 at AMZ and well worth it. Now if only someone would invent a stripper that does Romex + auto gauge + Cat5-Cat6 lv + table dances...
Home electrical work is illegal in most countries
srip the sheathing before putting in box and throw away thise useless wago and use a wirenut
Real electritian do not use stripers. Only cutters. I do that over 20 y and no pointless jest tool in my pockets.
2024.. wire romex colors changed again.
Beavis and butthead snl
I appreciate the fact that you are trying to teach me something, but I am watching this on a phone and your tool adds are taking up all of the real estate that the words you put on screen are in so I can't read any of that. Thank you anyways
My vision is -7. Almost legally blind.
And I’m not having any issues here.
You drunk?
Meh, I don't use wire strippers for most work, they're useless. Only time I will use a wire strippers is on wires that need sleeves, because then I use a 3 in 1 tool that cuts the wire, strips it and applies sleeves. Since I already need a special tool for the jobb, might as well use the 3 in 1 for stripping too.
Oh good, another one of those "I just learned something and I think I am so extra special smart that if I just learned it, it must be that everyone else is still doing it wrong like I did for years", videos. Nope, it was just you. Only idiots need, or make as if it's a revelation, a video about wire stripping.
i guarantee you dont measure only once
Too much banal, simplistic advises - waste of time. And strippers on 9:05 are not the best you can have. Look for almost same strippers, but with ROUND blades (where you have to select a hole according to wire) - they cut isolation AROUND the wire, not "top & bottom" (like your blue stripper). Heh... seems I know about wires more, than "youtube couch".
What’s the deal with these guys trying to make a funny video…. You’re not funny just get to it already
You mean the mistake of watching your videos?