You are my hero!!! I’ve been fighting with getting my Norcold N611 to work on gas for weeks. You are the only post I have seen that talks about this repair. I ordered the part from Amazon and installed it and the refrigerator has been working great on gas ever since. THANK YOU, YHANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!
Dude ! You just nailed my problem ! Nobody but you talks about the proper flame burn and mine has half orange flame . Thank you bub great video, better than all the rest !
My 20yo Norco also has a partly orange flame & the new ignitor I installed cannot succeed in lighting it. I have to restart the process, go outside, & light it manually w/a lighter. I'd like to try this before going more $$ w/a new control board. Perhaps I can even just clean it, although it has quite a bit of rust on the outside surface. Thanks for helping!
Yes, you are the man! Just cleaning out the part which you were speaking of got my Norcold back up and running! Thanks so much for posting this very complete and informative video.
Appreciate that any of you fellow MH/RV owner figure out issues and post videos. Although, please review you videos and edit the run on until you finally get to the point.
Very good demonstration. We have a Norcold and the flame has gotten noisy, but it is blue like yours. Your video gives me something to look for. I removed the burner and while it is no where near as bad as the one in the video, I did shake some scale out of it. I'll just go ahead and install a new one. Thanks.
Hi, thanks for the video. We have a brand new 3 way Norcold. It is working on DC and AC but not on propane. The solenoide valve seems to be looked and does not allow gas to go to the ignition area. How can we unlock that solenoide valve? We checked gas lines and gas is going through, just not getting to the flame area. Any advice would be greatly appreciate it!!
Some mechanical checks can be done. You can power the solenoid separately and see if it will click at all. (and pass fuel through).. as well you can check if your fridge has a pressure sensor on the propane line. If so, it may be out of spec/faulty/not reading. Follow this thought: If the solenoid works when powered manually, then maybe your fridge brains won't enable it due to 'low propane' sensor being tripped. If that's not the case (because you don't have any such sensor) then your fridge brains may have some other sort of sensor issue.. maybe your temperature switch isn't sending to the brain.. or something else like this. I believe RARELY is the actual brain the problem. Mostly I think the fridge problems are with the mechanical parts (like burners or sensors). When you use the AC or the DC on your fridge it doesn't use any of these propane systems or brains to operate.. so .. since your AC/DC is still working, it's NOT the fridge ammonia or piping or anything in the cooling system.. it's limited to the propane brain systems.
Great video! Easy to follow. I have the same fridge as in the video. Works as it should with one exception, when in propane mode, it will shut off and not re-ignite. Usually around 3am, with a nice loud beeping to let you know. It has happened occasionally during daytime, but almost always at night. Any ideas? Thanks!
Any chance the fridge is low on power? I'm suggesting it's getting low on battery at 3am and it's cutting off due to low voltage? Just a thought. Low power or bad power connection might make the sparker misfire and cause an error. Check for clean and nice solid connections at the sparker and board plugs. Any dirt or corrosion can decrease voltage to the unit
4 minutes in, I knew you were the guy. That being said.... I'm still searching for an answer because my Norcold is still sending the 'N' fault code or '5' flash code on other models. YES: Checked all power sources YES: Bought new board and it still shows 'N'. YES: Tested thermistor for resistance, its good. Tapped rusty areas to see if I can get gas flow.... nothing. I'm stuck, please help.
I just replaced one of those with a ffet1022uv frigidaire refrigerator. Same problem. It had a gas pressure leak and wasn't going cold. I believe yours may be the same and the refrigerant is dead to the heat, and it will no longer function.
@@roboink unfortunately they don't have service ports, so you can't recharge them. You can buy a whole new refrigerant coil system precharged and install it, but it costs more than a new fridge, with the same problems all over again.
Hi any idea on why my Norcold 6 cubic feet 3 way is freezing in the refrigerator? I have it set on 1 and running on propane and everything is frozen solid! The light did stop working before this started. No codes tho thanks!🤙
Good question! For sure warm up the temperature setting a bit if you can. The guts of the refrigerator have no idea what's the freezer or what's the fridge, it's just making cold stuff... so if your fridge portion is too cold, you'd need to turn that up on the temperature setting.
@@reelandgooutdoors Roger that. As a dinosaur I was not aware of that technology. So something else is sensing the flame for the safety shut down of gas if the flame goes out eh?
@@mattlovern4846 yes, the same unit that makes the dsi spark is also the thermocouple feedback, so although it no longer has a pilot light, it still uses the same tech to 'stay' on.
Hi! This is a lovely video. However im not running my norcold rv fridge off of propane, just ac/dc and it's not cooling :( Inside the fridge on the cooling fans, it was encased in ice. I took the ice off the fins when i was cleaning the fridge and now the whole thing won't cool. I'm not super knowledgeable on RV repairs and i was hoping maybe you could lend me some advice 🫶 i would appreciate it a lot.
If you have ice, it will work! By any chance was there a tiny metal clip on your fins when you took off the ice? That tiny clip is the thermostat for your fridge and is required to make it run! Move the clip right or left on the fins to make it warmer or colder. If you've moved the clip I expect it's now set too warm.
@@reelandgooutdoors I took the Clip off of the fins, it was never attached when it DID have ice What I mean to say is that I took all the ice off of the fins while cleaning, and now the entire unit refuses to cool at all. The freezer isn't freezing, the fridge isn't cold at all. I'm worried I screwed up by taking the ice off (it's been several days and the fridge/freezer still isn't cooling anything down. My rv doesn't (and can't) run off propane, just electric or DC :(
@@renee2814 here's some links: you likely have a thermistor on your clip. www.amazon.ca/Dometic-3851210025-Thermistor-44-Lead/dp/B004LERB30/ and if it is gone now your fridge won't start. Check if you have or had one of these on a clip. Let me know. (Some have a copper tube one and not a plug in clip one) thanks
Can you give me some idea as to the poor freezer cooling on electric vs propane in my NorCold? And, I seem to be going thru more propane than expected. I'm filling a 20 lb tank every three to four days. Thanks in advance. I don't have any electrical measurement experience.
Here's a couple of thoughts on this. If your electric heater element is supposed to be 400 w, check with a consumption meter that it is actually using 400 watts. If the element is bad it may only use 200, as an example. This will tell you your element is not producing enough heat to produce the necessary cooling in your fridge. Regarding propane, be sure your nozzle is the correct nozzle for your position in the heater and for the required cooling in your fridge. I have seen many nozzles that look almost exactly the same, but certainly are not when it comes to jet size and air flow, so be sure your nozzle is the right one for your actual fridge. Regarding general cooling problems, make sure your fridge and freezer doors are sealing perfectly around the face of the unit, so you don't have any air leaks. This can be a main cause of inefficiency on these small fridges. The cooling in the fridge requires air transfer out back. There's a set of heated fins behind your fridge which require clean air flow from bottom up through the top, and with that rear cooling the absorption through the inner heat sink transpires. This is how your inside fridge gets cold, by heating the outside coils and then cooling those. All of these systems have to work properly for these tiny fridges to function at all. I will say your propane consumption is enormous, and if you cannot isolate that it is only the refrigerator, I would strongly suggest you have another leak somewhere.
@@cschave I haven't had a chance to putter with it. We are north in the cold air. When it warms up, I'll look at that dispersion pipe he shows. It's a good chance this is the problem. I ran my propane while boondocking and it didn't cool much. I will get into this soon.
@@paultaylor6167 Thanks Paul! After looking into it further, I realized that I had only gone through 30% of the tank. It was secured to the trailer, so when I originally tried to see how much it weighed, it felt empty. Guess I'm just really strong : )
Thanks for cutting out how to remove the cover to do the repair, for us dummies. Fast forwarded and you cut out how to replace the cover, so I couldn't work backwards to have an idea how to remove it.
In that case, I'd be looking into a coolant leak in your system. If you have heat and no cooling you have no heat transfer..so that's either no airflow or no coolant.
You are my hero!!! I’ve been fighting with getting my Norcold N611 to work on gas for weeks. You are the only post I have seen that talks about this repair. I ordered the part from Amazon and installed it and the refrigerator has been working great on gas ever since. THANK YOU, YHANK YOU, THANK YOU!!!!
Ahh this is a great comment! Thankyou for taking the time to write this, it certainly fuels the fire (hahah) to keep doing tech videos! Thanks!
Dude ! You just nailed my problem ! Nobody but you talks about the proper flame burn and mine has half orange flame . Thank you bub great video, better than all the rest !
Cheers!
My 20yo Norco also has a partly orange flame & the new ignitor I installed cannot succeed in lighting it. I have to restart the process, go outside, & light it manually w/a lighter. I'd like to try this before going more $$ w/a new control board. Perhaps I can even just clean it, although it has quite a bit of rust on the outside surface. Thanks for helping!
This video is the best one I’ve seen. The answers to the replies were excellent also. Thank you for the help.
Cheers! Share to somewhere if you find it valuable
Yes, you are the man! Just cleaning out the part which you were speaking of got my Norcold back up and running! Thanks so much for posting this very complete and informative video.
Appreciate your video. Took mine apart and it looked like your old burner, lol. Off to find one tomorrow. Thanks again
Perfect video! Thanks, we got our 3 way fridge going thanks to you!
Glad I could help! That's excellent news!
I would have used soapy water on the fitting, checked for bubbles, then celebrated with a freshly cooled beverage. Good tutorial! 🍺
That's a great idea!
Supremely helpful video! Need to repair mine and this is exactly what I needed. Thanks!
Thanks!
Appreciate that any of you fellow MH/RV owner figure out issues and post videos. Although, please review you videos and edit the run on until you finally get to the point.
It's your 10 yr anniversary on UA-cam! Maybe you should make your 1st video now.
OUTSTANDING presentation. Steve G.
Thanks!
Thank you for the great explanation. Fixed my problem. Really appreciate the help!
Very good and simple Explanation, I’ll do that tomorrow, Primero Dios, Thanks.
Awesome vid. Thank You
Very good demonstration. We have a Norcold and the flame has gotten noisy, but it is blue like yours. Your video gives me something to look for. I removed the burner and while it is no where near as bad as the one in the video, I did shake some scale out of it. I'll just go ahead and install a new one. Thanks.
Thanks for the comment! Happy cooling!
bloody awesome!! thank you so much!
Awesome video!!
Mine isn't working with propane or electricity. Frude light is working and shows green. Any ideas what it might be?
Hi, thanks for the video. We have a brand new 3 way Norcold. It is working on DC and AC but not on propane. The solenoide valve seems to be looked and does not allow gas to go to the ignition area. How can we unlock that solenoide valve? We checked gas lines and gas is going through, just not getting to the flame area. Any advice would be greatly appreciate it!!
Some mechanical checks can be done. You can power the solenoid separately and see if it will click at all. (and pass fuel through).. as well you can check if your fridge has a pressure sensor on the propane line. If so, it may be out of spec/faulty/not reading. Follow this thought: If the solenoid works when powered manually, then maybe your fridge brains won't enable it due to 'low propane' sensor being tripped. If that's not the case (because you don't have any such sensor) then your fridge brains may have some other sort of sensor issue.. maybe your temperature switch isn't sending to the brain.. or something else like this. I believe RARELY is the actual brain the problem. Mostly I think the fridge problems are with the mechanical parts (like burners or sensors). When you use the AC or the DC on your fridge it doesn't use any of these propane systems or brains to operate.. so .. since your AC/DC is still working, it's NOT the fridge ammonia or piping or anything in the cooling system.. it's limited to the propane brain systems.
Great video! Easy to follow. I have the same fridge as in the video. Works as it should with one exception, when in propane mode, it will shut off and not re-ignite. Usually around 3am, with a nice loud beeping to let you know. It has happened occasionally during daytime, but almost always at night. Any ideas? Thanks!
Any chance the fridge is low on power? I'm suggesting it's getting low on battery at 3am and it's cutting off due to low voltage? Just a thought. Low power or bad power connection might make the sparker misfire and cause an error. Check for clean and nice solid connections at the sparker and board plugs. Any dirt or corrosion can decrease voltage to the unit
Is the name propane fuel jet? I can not find the part using that name.
It's called soapy water for leak test😮
Why not spray with soapy water to check connections?
Soapy water is an easy check for gas leaks.
4 minutes in, I knew you were the guy.
That being said.... I'm still searching for an answer because my Norcold is still sending the 'N' fault code or '5' flash code on other models.
YES: Checked all power sources
YES: Bought new board and it still shows 'N'.
YES: Tested thermistor for resistance, its good.
Tapped rusty areas to see if I can get gas flow.... nothing.
I'm stuck, please help.
Is that little door on the cover an oxygen adjustment for letting more air in or you just close it all the way
@@crashedking1931 close it. It's just a viewing hole
@@reelandgooutdoors thank you
We have a Norcold N811RT. We run ours on electric. Fridge quit getting cold. Why would tube be hot to the touch ?
I just replaced one of those with a ffet1022uv frigidaire refrigerator. Same problem. It had a gas pressure leak and wasn't going cold. I believe yours may be the same and the refrigerant is dead to the heat, and it will no longer function.
@@reelandgooutdoors So just replace fridge?
@@roboink unfortunately they don't have service ports, so you can't recharge them. You can buy a whole new refrigerant coil system precharged and install it, but it costs more than a new fridge, with the same problems all over again.
Is the actual name of the part “propane fuel jet?” I can not find the part using that name.
At 0:37 you can see the name and part number. It's a Refrigerator Burner Orifice
What did you go turn on inside??
@@MrLee-i7m the fridge switch
Hi any idea on why my Norcold 6 cubic feet 3 way is freezing in the refrigerator? I have it set on 1 and running on propane and everything is frozen solid! The light did stop working before this started. No codes tho thanks!🤙
Good question! For sure warm up the temperature setting a bit if you can. The guts of the refrigerator have no idea what's the freezer or what's the fridge, it's just making cold stuff... so if your fridge portion is too cold, you'd need to turn that up on the temperature setting.
It looks like it's operating without a thermocouple. I didn't think that was possible. What am I missing?
It's a DSI heater, not a thermocouple. That's why.
@@reelandgooutdoors Roger that. As a dinosaur I was not aware of that technology. So something else is sensing the flame for the safety shut down of gas if the flame goes out eh?
@@mattlovern4846 yes, the same unit that makes the dsi spark is also the thermocouple feedback, so although it no longer has a pilot light, it still uses the same tech to 'stay' on.
Hi! This is a lovely video. However im not running my norcold rv fridge off of propane, just ac/dc and it's not cooling :(
Inside the fridge on the cooling fans, it was encased in ice. I took the ice off the fins when i was cleaning the fridge and now the whole thing won't cool.
I'm not super knowledgeable on RV repairs and i was hoping maybe you could lend me some advice 🫶 i would appreciate it a lot.
If you have ice, it will work! By any chance was there a tiny metal clip on your fins when you took off the ice? That tiny clip is the thermostat for your fridge and is required to make it run! Move the clip right or left on the fins to make it warmer or colder. If you've moved the clip I expect it's now set too warm.
@@reelandgooutdoors I took the Clip off of the fins, it was never attached when it DID have ice
What I mean to say is that I took all the ice off of the fins while cleaning, and now the entire unit refuses to cool at all. The freezer isn't freezing, the fridge isn't cold at all. I'm worried I screwed up by taking the ice off (it's been several days and the fridge/freezer still isn't cooling anything down.
My rv doesn't (and can't) run off propane, just electric or DC :(
@@renee2814 here's some links: you likely have a thermistor on your clip. www.amazon.ca/Dometic-3851210025-Thermistor-44-Lead/dp/B004LERB30/ and if it is gone now your fridge won't start. Check if you have or had one of these on a clip. Let me know. (Some have a copper tube one and not a plug in clip one) thanks
And here's a video showing how and why you need the clip and thermistor: ua-cam.com/video/bY7cy4Kf3VQ/v-deo.html
Would you know why it would work only on propane and not electric?
Probably bad heater element. The electric heater (which is used instead of propane flame) is likely dead or bad connection or relay.
@reelandgooutdoors if this us the issue would it not cool while trying on propane and electricity?
Can you give me some idea as to the poor freezer cooling on electric vs propane in my NorCold? And, I seem to be going thru more propane than expected. I'm filling a 20 lb tank every three to four days. Thanks in advance. I don't have any electrical measurement experience.
Here's a couple of thoughts on this. If your electric heater element is supposed to be 400 w, check with a consumption meter that it is actually using 400 watts. If the element is bad it may only use 200, as an example. This will tell you your element is not producing enough heat to produce the necessary cooling in your fridge. Regarding propane, be sure your nozzle is the correct nozzle for your position in the heater and for the required cooling in your fridge. I have seen many nozzles that look almost exactly the same, but certainly are not when it comes to jet size and air flow, so be sure your nozzle is the right one for your actual fridge. Regarding general cooling problems, make sure your fridge and freezer doors are sealing perfectly around the face of the unit, so you don't have any air leaks. This can be a main cause of inefficiency on these small fridges. The cooling in the fridge requires air transfer out back. There's a set of heated fins behind your fridge which require clean air flow from bottom up through the top, and with that rear cooling the absorption through the inner heat sink transpires. This is how your inside fridge gets cold, by heating the outside coils and then cooling those. All of these systems have to work properly for these tiny fridges to function at all. I will say your propane consumption is enormous, and if you cannot isolate that it is only the refrigerator, I would strongly suggest you have another leak somewhere.
I just went through a 20 lb tank over the weekend. @paulallentaylor6034 - Did you find a fix?
@@cschave I haven't had a chance to putter with it. We are north in the cold air. When it warms up, I'll look at that dispersion pipe he shows. It's a good chance this is the problem. I ran my propane while boondocking and it didn't cool much. I will get into this soon.
@@paultaylor6167 Thanks Paul! After looking into it further, I realized that I had only gone through 30% of the tank. It was secured to the trailer, so when I originally tried to see how much it weighed, it felt empty. Guess I'm just really strong : )
Thanks for cutting out how to remove the cover to do the repair, for us dummies. Fast forwarded and you cut out how to replace the cover, so I couldn't work backwards to have an idea how to remove it.
if you cant figure out how to remove the cover, you shouldnt be replacing propane burners and other parts.
Most common problems of rv refrigerator fires is using propane, idk why they even still have propane refrigerators….its dangerous.
Because they don’t run on Ferry Dust!😂😂😂
You funny. Do you know some of us live in the wood with no power? 😄
Mine stays lit...but doesn't get cold. Help.
In that case, I'd be looking into a coolant leak in your system. If you have heat and no cooling you have no heat transfer..so that's either no airflow or no coolant.
You can also do a continuity test on the thermistor mounted to the fins inside.
Total useless I have to watch another vid that can help