Відео

@@MrLee-i7m the fridge switch

@@crashedking1931 close it. It's just a viewing hole

@@reelandgooutdoors thank you

if you cant figure out how to remove the cover, you shouldnt be replacing propane burners and other parts.

It's a DSI heater, not a thermocouple. That's why.

@@reelandgooutdoors Roger that. As a dinosaur I was not aware of that technology. So something else is sensing the flame for the safety shut down of gas if the flame goes out eh?

@@mattlovern4846 yes, the same unit that makes the dsi spark is also the thermocouple feedback, so although it no longer has a pilot light, it still uses the same tech to 'stay' on.

It's your 10 yr anniversary on UA-cam! Maybe you should make your 1st video now.

Because they don’t run on Ferry Dust!😂😂😂

You funny. Do you know some of us live in the wood with no power? 😄

Yeah! I couldn't find a switch either. Using the 1+2 setting can cause you some problem... in that the dead battery will suddenly flash current from the full battery when you get to the 1+2 setting.. and that's going to be a big arc, which will burn the switch lever contact and it will eventually fail. IN your case, I agree with the anderson connectors. Unplug one, and plug in the other one, all separated.

I just replaced one of those with a ffet1022uv frigidaire refrigerator. Same problem. It had a gas pressure leak and wasn't going cold. I believe yours may be the same and the refrigerant is dead to the heat, and it will no longer function.

@@reelandgooutdoors So just replace fridge?

@@roboink unfortunately they don't have service ports, so you can't recharge them. You can buy a whole new refrigerant coil system precharged and install it, but it costs more than a new fridge, with the same problems all over again.

Thanks!

Cheers!

My 20yo Norco also has a partly orange flame & the new ignitor I installed cannot succeed in lighting it. I have to restart the process, go outside, & light it manually w/a lighter. I'd like to try this before going more $$ w/a new control board. Perhaps I can even just clean it, although it has quite a bit of rust on the outside surface. Thanks for helping!

Ahh this is a great comment! Thankyou for taking the time to write this, it certainly fuels the fire (hahah) to keep doing tech videos! Thanks!

Absolutely I do. Same dilution, and light brushing will really do wonders. If you have stubborn brown spots, then allow a little soaking before brushing, and repeat! Thanks for watching!

@@reelandgooutdoors Thank you bro and what is the ratio of water per ratio of simple green you use ? I don't think I saw it in the video.

@@davenstorm7271 I use about one OZ per Gallon of water, but my rig is mostly clean all the time. Some tips are to use 2oz per gallon and HOT water for a dirty rig to get the dirt cut off and then lower soap use for a cleaner rig. The Simple Green won't hurt it AT ALL, so feel free to use it pretty thick if you need it!

If you have ice, it will work! By any chance was there a tiny metal clip on your fins when you took off the ice? That tiny clip is the thermostat for your fridge and is required to make it run! Move the clip right or left on the fins to make it warmer or colder. If you've moved the clip I expect it's now set too warm.

@@reelandgooutdoors I took the Clip off of the fins, it was never attached when it DID have ice What I mean to say is that I took all the ice off of the fins while cleaning, and now the entire unit refuses to cool at all. The freezer isn't freezing, the fridge isn't cold at all. I'm worried I screwed up by taking the ice off (it's been several days and the fridge/freezer still isn't cooling anything down. My rv doesn't (and can't) run off propane, just electric or DC :(

@@renee2814 here's some links: you likely have a thermistor on your clip. www.amazon.ca/Dometic-3851210025-Thermistor-44-Lead/dp/B004LERB30/ and if it is gone now your fridge won't start. Check if you have or had one of these on a clip. Let me know. (Some have a copper tube one and not a plug in clip one) thanks

And here's a video showing how and why you need the clip and thermistor: ua-cam.com/video/bY7cy4Kf3VQ/v-deo.html

Check out the thread here: diysolarforum.com/threads/yes-rv-solar-li-and-ac-running-full-time.23979/

Thanks!

No. AGM. And been working great

If it physically fits, that's fine

Cheers! Share to somewhere if you find it valuable

At 0:37 you can see the name and part number. It's a Refrigerator Burner Orifice

Yes. The lines go inside the frame at the rear, and cross over the frame half way up, and then under the floor and up into the front right corner. Even after these years of use, this system worked perfectly all this summer...again. we love it.

@@reelandgooutdoors Very good👍 I have a 2002 e350 class c Tioga. I'm thinking to do the same installation.

@@cfoster8706 for my install, which you can see, I used all 25ft of line for the system. It took more than I thought to run the lines.

Good plan!

Correct!

@@reelandgooutdoors I knew it! Great! You know I started with RC-cars too a few years ago, watched your channel all the time. Then I bought a couple of nitro cars, then an electric scooter, got mad at it for its poor range so I bought a real 70cc moped from China, couldn't get it legaly registered here in Sweden, so I went for a proper MC-endorsement and now I have a bunch of motorbikes, one of which is the KLX230. But that one has black plastics here in Europe.

You can, I guess. I've left it on by accident once, but I usually turn it off and just run the dash AC when needed for traveling.

Yep. And a 3s 5000mah LiPo kicks over the bike like a runaway train, so that's a real good booster pack!

Any chance the fridge is low on power? I'm suggesting it's getting low on battery at 3am and it's cutting off due to low voltage? Just a thought. Low power or bad power connection might make the sparker misfire and cause an error. Check for clean and nice solid connections at the sparker and board plugs. Any dirt or corrosion can decrease voltage to the unit

Is the name propane fuel jet? I can not find the part using that name.

Glad I could help! That's excellent news!

Good question! For sure warm up the temperature setting a bit if you can. The guts of the refrigerator have no idea what's the freezer or what's the fridge, it's just making cold stuff... so if your fridge portion is too cold, you'd need to turn that up on the temperature setting.

Probably bad heater element. The electric heater (which is used instead of propane flame) is likely dead or bad connection or relay.

​@reelandgooutdoors if this us the issue would it not cool while trying on propane and electricity?

Some mechanical checks can be done. You can power the solenoid separately and see if it will click at all. (and pass fuel through).. as well you can check if your fridge has a pressure sensor on the propane line. If so, it may be out of spec/faulty/not reading. Follow this thought: If the solenoid works when powered manually, then maybe your fridge brains won't enable it due to 'low propane' sensor being tripped. If that's not the case (because you don't have any such sensor) then your fridge brains may have some other sort of sensor issue.. maybe your temperature switch isn't sending to the brain.. or something else like this. I believe RARELY is the actual brain the problem. Mostly I think the fridge problems are with the mechanical parts (like burners or sensors). When you use the AC or the DC on your fridge it doesn't use any of these propane systems or brains to operate.. so .. since your AC/DC is still working, it's NOT the fridge ammonia or piping or anything in the cooling system.. it's limited to the propane brain systems.

Thanks! I'm always open to visits and showoff! LOLL Wanna build up something for your property?

That's a real possibility. These tiny glass mats don't have a long life.

Yep! #moreZipTies