I've made hundreds of fancy cutting boards. I used to just use basic mineral oil, but customers who weren't staying up on the oiling consistently had issues. But, the customers who applied waxes inevitably had boards that cracked beyond repair. The wax traps moisture in the pores and causes the individual pieces to swell irregularly which makes them crack right next to the glue joints. By far the best and longest lasting finish is a 50/50 mix of 100% pure d-limonene and 100% pure tongue oil. The solvent helps it penetrate deep into the wood and the tung oil properties create a beautiful polymerized finish. It's been proven by people like the great Marc Spagnuolo to last an entire year on extremely intricate end grain boards.
I have also recently switched to 50/50 tung oil and orange extract. It is a finish that actually cures and can't be washed off like mineral oil or wax, and is also food safe I just spot touch it with a butcher block oil maybe one every couple months when it looks dry. The Wood Whisperer has a great video on it
Good to know! The method in this video are recommended by Larchwood Canada, who have made boards since 2003. We've found waxing works exceptionally well for us and our customers, but it is important to dry your board first.
some people just use a damp/wet towel to wipe the soap off after but I feel like it grosses me, but my first room mate had gigantic cutting board that was nearly unmovable on her entire counter and it was so satisfying to prepare food on :P it was a cheap ikea one I think. I feel like it's logically fine but I like a rinse under the sink!
Місяць тому+6
Or, because it has rubber feet, you can simply do the backside first, so you don't have to flip over the board on its top, so you don't have to get rid of the wax on your table/countertop afterwards. ;)
I’ve had my Larch board for 15 years and it still looks new. Use the wax and alternate with the board oil from Lee Valley Tools made with coconut oil. Great video. Thanks.😊
On the topic of cleaning, what about a distilled vinegar/water mixture? I keep a spray bottle of the stuff next to my board and use it to clean after I’m done prepping food. How effective would this be compared to rinsing with soapy water?
I don't see why not! I'm not expert on sanitation, so dish soap is probably a safer bed, but give it a try! You may find the moisture and acidity dries out your board, and you'll need to hydrate it more often.
Місяць тому
I use this mixture too but with lemon added. However I use it once a week while I use water with soap at the end of each use. I am curious to know which is better
What about food safe mineral oil? Would it be better to let that soak into the board first and then follow with a heavier wax? Wax seems a bit heavy to condition that far down. Any opinions appreciated!
Good question! If the board is very dry, absolutely. Just avoid using oil too often, you can oversaturate the wood and damage your board from excessive oiling. The wax contains a good amount of mineral oil, so it saturates well without over saturating!
It's been proven over and over that wax clogs the pores of the wood and traps moisture, yet also doesn't last long. It also makes it very hard to evenlu apply a penetrating product later on. The best proven product is a 50/50 mix of pure food grade tung oil and 100% d-limonene. The latter acts like a solvent allowing the tung oil to penetrate deep and the former is a fantastic polymerizing coating that lasts a long long time.
@@Nickporter17 Nick; I studied wood science. A green wood has a high moisture content which varies by species and location on the tree. Kiln dried wood drops that moisture content of course but the wood will re-absorb water when wetted and then dry out slowly because most houses are low in air moisture, especially in the winter. What one wants on a board is to trap the moisture, preventing rapid changes. many cutting boards are well made from a woodworking perspective but poorly designed where the grain of the wood is considered along with which species and especially with where on the tree the adjacent pieces are from. Most cracking boards happen because of rapid moisture changes. As a side note, polymerization is another way of saying oxidation - and only the very surface will slowly undergo that process. It happens best with ultra thin layers and of course nothing much is now natural anymore and drying agents are added to these products, usually metallic compounds. Linseed, or flax seed oils as they really should be called "clog" the pores in the same way as Wax mixtures - and that is a good thing as far as the life of the wooden boards is concerned. Solvents do not impact the depth of absorption as many people naturally believe. The structure of the cells of the wood determine that, so the species of the wood, the cut of the grain and where it came from the tree are the prime factors. It's a shame that more woodworkers (which I was as a hobby for 20 years) don't really have a more in-depth scientific understanding of their product and aim to build pretty items as a first priority. But then - wood is a very forgiving product.
Hi, i was wondering if anyone has a suggestion for a Santoku, Im brand new to fancy knives and i want to get one that i can manage. Is stainless steel better, or carbon steel. Preferably under $200. I just cook casually at home nothing to heavy. Thanks
Hey! Both types of steel are excellent. Stainless steel is much easier to care for, but if you're okay with a little maintenance, carbon steel is great too. I really like these: knifewear.com/products/haruyuki-nishiki-santoku-165mm knifewear.com/products/haruyuki-goma-santoku-180mm knifewear.com/products/sakai-takayuki-vg10-tsuchime-damascus-santoku-170mm
![World's Rarest Knife Collection - Kevin's Kit [PART 1]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1oVNxgRh5Aw/mqdefault.jpg)
I've made hundreds of fancy cutting boards. I used to just use basic mineral oil, but customers who weren't staying up on the oiling consistently had issues. But, the customers who applied waxes inevitably had boards that cracked beyond repair. The wax traps moisture in the pores and causes the individual pieces to swell irregularly which makes them crack right next to the glue joints. By far the best and longest lasting finish is a 50/50 mix of 100% pure d-limonene and 100% pure tongue oil. The solvent helps it penetrate deep into the wood and the tung oil properties create a beautiful polymerized finish. It's been proven by people like the great Marc Spagnuolo to last an entire year on extremely intricate end grain boards.
I have also recently switched to 50/50 tung oil and orange extract. It is a finish that actually cures and can't be washed off like mineral oil or wax, and is also food safe
I just spot touch it with a butcher block oil maybe one every couple months when it looks dry.
The Wood Whisperer has a great video on it
Good to know! The method in this video are recommended by Larchwood Canada, who have made boards since 2003. We've found waxing works exceptionally well for us and our customers, but it is important to dry your board first.
@@KnifewearKnives Right because they want to sell more cutting boards
I have to take an extra step and put the board into the oven or into the garage. That keeps my cats from sticking to the newly waxed board. ;)
some people just use a damp/wet towel to wipe the soap off after but I feel like it grosses me, but my first room mate had gigantic cutting board that was nearly unmovable on her entire counter and it was so satisfying to prepare food on :P it was a cheap ikea one I think. I feel like it's logically fine but I like a rinse under the sink!
Or, because it has rubber feet, you can simply do the backside first, so you don't have to flip over the board on its top, so you don't have to get rid of the wax on your table/countertop afterwards. ;)
🤯🤯🤯🤯🤯
I’ve had my Larch board for 15 years and it still looks new. Use the wax and alternate with the board oil from Lee Valley Tools made with coconut oil. Great video. Thanks.😊
Glad you enjoyed, and happy that Larch is going strong for you!
@@KnifewearKnives 💕
On the topic of cleaning, what about a distilled vinegar/water mixture? I keep a spray bottle of the stuff next to my board and use it to clean after I’m done prepping food. How effective would this be compared to rinsing with soapy water?
I don't see why not! I'm not expert on sanitation, so dish soap is probably a safer bed, but give it a try! You may find the moisture and acidity dries out your board, and you'll need to hydrate it more often.
I use this mixture too but with lemon added. However I use it once a week while I use water with soap at the end of each use. I am curious to know which is better
What about chipping? After a while the knives will leave gouges in the wood, so I’m assuming it will need to be sanded off?
End-grain boards like this self-heal quite well, but after a few years you can absolutely sand it if you need!
What about food safe mineral oil? Would it be better to let that soak into the board first and then follow with a heavier wax? Wax seems a bit heavy to condition that far down. Any opinions appreciated!
Good question! If the board is very dry, absolutely. Just avoid using oil too often, you can oversaturate the wood and damage your board from excessive oiling.
The wax contains a good amount of mineral oil, so it saturates well without over saturating!
It's been proven over and over that wax clogs the pores of the wood and traps moisture, yet also doesn't last long. It also makes it very hard to evenlu apply a penetrating product later on. The best proven product is a 50/50 mix of pure food grade tung oil and 100% d-limonene. The latter acts like a solvent allowing the tung oil to penetrate deep and the former is a fantastic polymerizing coating that lasts a long long time.
@@Nickporter17 Nick; I studied wood science. A green wood has a high moisture content which varies by species and location on the tree. Kiln dried wood drops that moisture content of course but the wood will re-absorb water when wetted and then dry out slowly because most houses are low in air moisture, especially in the winter. What one wants on a board is to trap the moisture, preventing rapid changes. many cutting boards are well made from a woodworking perspective but poorly designed where the grain of the wood is considered along with which species and especially with where on the tree the adjacent pieces are from. Most cracking boards happen because of rapid moisture changes. As a side note, polymerization is another way of saying oxidation - and only the very surface will slowly undergo that process. It happens best with ultra thin layers and of course nothing much is now natural anymore and drying agents are added to these products, usually metallic compounds. Linseed, or flax seed oils as they really should be called "clog" the pores in the same way as Wax mixtures - and that is a good thing as far as the life of the wooden boards is concerned. Solvents do not impact the depth of absorption as many people naturally believe. The structure of the cells of the wood determine that, so the species of the wood, the cut of the grain and where it came from the tree are the prime factors. It's a shame that more woodworkers (which I was as a hobby for 20 years) don't really have a more in-depth scientific understanding of their product and aim to build pretty items as a first priority. But then - wood is a very forgiving product.
Hi, i was wondering if anyone has a suggestion for a Santoku, Im brand new to fancy knives and i want to get one that i can manage. Is stainless steel better, or carbon steel. Preferably under $200. I just cook casually at home nothing to heavy. Thanks
Hey! Both types of steel are excellent. Stainless steel is much easier to care for, but if you're okay with a little maintenance, carbon steel is great too.
I really like these:
knifewear.com/products/haruyuki-nishiki-santoku-165mm
knifewear.com/products/haruyuki-goma-santoku-180mm
knifewear.com/products/sakai-takayuki-vg10-tsuchime-damascus-santoku-170mm
Tutorial on sharpening knife on an actual rock ( survival edition)
I just stick mine in the dishwasher mwhahahahaha :P
NOOOOOOOOOOOOO
@@KnifewearKnives Yessss! A new board sale coming up soon. 😇
Why did I think she was missing an arm???
because for the first 11 seconds of the video she definitely was