Crazy. I’ve been watch Ted Woodford for a couple years and all of Dan Erlewine’s stuff and even Jerry Rosa. Your stuff just hit my feed yesterday. No idea why UA-cam kept you hidden. Love watching your work.
That was the replacement saddle you must be talking about. I put it in the bridge to estimate how much to take off the neck heel. The saddle that came with the guitar was skimmed down to pretty much flush with the top of the bridge
The only neck I've reset was a 335 copy which needed totally cutting out due to poor manufacture. I've seen Ted Woodford use them a couple of times successfully and of course Ian Davlin.
@@tochriss Exactly! They get a pretty good review from other luthiers in a group that I’m part of. I’m just trying to decide on the 4” or 6”. They’re so cheap I might get both sizes. Thanks for reaching out! ✌️✌️
Thank You, Depending on the city & repair shop it can vary in price from $500-$1200.00 If you ship it to me in Nashville it would be on the low end. $500.00 in 2022
1 - shave saddle (at bottom of saddle) 'first' to determine the requirement for a neck reset (neck reset should be an absolute last resort). 2 - buff the guitar (after) the entire process is finished. 3 - when using the sand/pull method; brush/dust away sandpaper grit after each pull. Then you wont have to go back to buffing the area (again) 4 - get one step completely finished so you save time not having to go back and forth.
I would like to thank you for loving the volume while using the drill. I appreciate that extra step🙏🏻
Crazy. I’ve been watch Ted Woodford for a couple years and all of Dan Erlewine’s stuff and even Jerry Rosa. Your stuff just hit my feed yesterday. No idea why UA-cam kept you hidden. Love watching your work.
Me too! Strange but good! 😁 Cheers 🇨🇦
Wow. First thought on that high saddle was: Leave the Neck heel, get rid of about at least millimeter or 2 before going at the neck.
That was the replacement saddle you must be talking about. I put it in the bridge to estimate how much to take off the neck heel.
The saddle that came with the guitar was skimmed down to pretty much flush with the top of the bridge
@@harpethguitar oooooh. Now I get it! Thanks for explaining!
Whats your view of using the foam cutting wires rather than steam?
I’m getting ready to order a pair of 4” foam cutters. Do you use them?
The only neck I've reset was a 335 copy which needed totally cutting out due to poor manufacture. I've seen Ted Woodford use them a couple of times successfully and of course Ian Davlin.
@@tochriss Exactly! They get a pretty good review from other luthiers in a group that I’m part of. I’m just trying to decide on the 4” or 6”. They’re so cheap I might get both sizes. Thanks for reaching out!
✌️✌️
Awesome
Very nice, what's the going rate right now? I have a 1980 Hummingbird that needs the exact same treatment 😛
Thank You,
Depending on the city & repair shop it can vary in price from $500-$1200.00 If you ship it to me in Nashville it would be on the low end. $500.00 in 2022
@@harpethguitar Thanks brother! I'll let you know when I'm ready to ship it so I can get your address and any special instructions.
@@SwampcatsHousehope it all went well
Are there certain brands that are prone to needing a neck reset early on and vice versa, or is it a complete crap shoot?
I think it’s mostly due to environmental conditions. Temperature, string tension, humidity etc.
Hummingbird copy from 62. This neck reset has a helpful device installed while at the job.
ua-cam.com/users/shortsYcAfcOjsJ-U?si=f0jEOjTLHS06ixd2
Subbed
1 - shave saddle (at bottom of saddle) 'first' to determine the requirement for a neck reset (neck reset should be an absolute last resort).
2 - buff the guitar (after) the entire process is finished.
3 - when using the sand/pull method; brush/dust away sandpaper grit after each pull. Then you wont have to go back to buffing the area (again)
4 - get one step completely finished so you save time not having to go back and forth.
Typical Gibson “quality”..
Gibson is the n word of the guitar world