I made an Edwardian evening bodice using historical haute couture sewing techniques

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  • Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
  • 💻Check out www.squarespace.com/abbycox to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code "abbycox"! Thanks again to Squarespace for sponsoring this video!
    I haven't done this much hand sewing in a *while*...and let me tell ya...my hands are still sore. 🤣
    It's finished & I am so thrilled with how this Edwardian evening gown turned out. The fit, the shape, the details, the textures, all of it...I'm just really really pleased with it.
    My inspiration for the design of the bodice was based on just looking at a lot of net & silk bodices and gowns that survive today and taking what I was seeing into consideration for what worked best for my body, the time I had available, and what materials I had at my disposal. As much as I can joke and tease about how Edwardian era dressmakers must have just thrown lace and trim at the wall and just used what stuck (cause some of these bodices are just pure decorative chaos), I understood how easy it was to keep going with applying trim and decoration. I stopped where I did, mostly out of time, and I got everything I needed on the bodice stitched down...but I totally could have kept going. 🤣
    This bodice was made using Victorian and Edwardian sewing techniques that I found in my collection of antique bodices and is mostly hand-sewn. The seams of the silk taffeta lining were sewn by machine, but everything else had to be sewn by hand.
    Bodice Drafting Instructions: archive.org/details/americans... (this pattern block is meant to be mocked up and carefully fit to the body - it will not fit you perfectly in the first fitting unless you're body is the drafting ideal for this shape.)
    Instructions on how to construct a late Victorian/Edwardian Evening or Wedding Bodice: archive.org/details/dressmake...
    Dry Goods Economist, 1909, www.google.com/books/edition/... (NOTE: I used Lingerie dress for a price reference simply because it was a dress term that I could easily use to find prices, what I made is not a lingerie dress, and is usually just described as what it is - a silk dress with net overlay.)
    The inflation calculator I used: www.officialdata.org/us/infla...
    00:00 - 7:04 - Pattern Drafting, First fitting, Pattern adaption & Squarespace
    07:05 - 11:13 - Lining Construction, Second Fitting (ft. Nicole), Stitching up the back, adding the satin & net overlay
    11:14 - 13:00 - Draping the front placket, sleeves, and belt on Chrissy
    13:01 - 18:15 - Final sewing (trim, gauze, sleeves, sequins, hooks & eyes)
    18:15 - 19:30 - Final Reveal
    19:30 - 24:32 - Cost break down of the project & how it compares to Edwardian prices
    24:33 - 25:15 - Bloopers
    🥳Socials
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    📚My books:
    The American Duchess Guide to 18th-Century Dressmaking: amzn.to/2GrkAIQ
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КОМЕНТАРІ • 481

  • @thelacedangel
    @thelacedangel 2 роки тому +671

    GODDAMMIT, ABBY 😭😭😭😭😭😭😭😭

    • @AbbyCox
      @AbbyCox  2 роки тому +120

      MUAH HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HAH AHA HAHA HAHAHAHAHA

    • @LindzTheLooneyOfLondon
      @LindzTheLooneyOfLondon 2 роки тому +17

      I just wanted to say your hairstyle is fabulous, Best wishes from London UK x

    • @lajoyous1568
      @lajoyous1568 2 роки тому +69

      @@AbbyCox I love that this comment has a translate to English option 😄

    • @denisegoodberlet2308
      @denisegoodberlet2308 2 роки тому +21

      I will miss the various disconcerted and mischievous faces of Chrissie, but I hope Seattle treats her well!

    • @lizvanwessem2055
      @lizvanwessem2055 2 роки тому +35

      I think we're all going to miss you in Abby and Nicole's videos. Of course, this is going by what we see in Abby and Nicole's videos (which, obvs, is nothing like real life), but you seem to all have a wonderful friendship that I for one am quite envious of! Best of luck with the move!

  • @Bellbebell
    @Bellbebell 2 роки тому +1337

    I’m so glad you went over the cost analysis. Fast fashion has completely disconnected us with what a living wage should be for people who make garments all over the world. There’s so much value in learning how much these high-quality garments cost in terms of materials and labour. Thank you!

    • @denisegoodberlet2308
      @denisegoodberlet2308 2 роки тому +71

      That was super shocking to me actually, I'm a skinflint, and realizing that clothes SHOULD cost more helps me justify spending more than 15 dollars on a shirt and 35 on bottoms.

    • @cyangeleek402
      @cyangeleek402 2 роки тому +59

      Would love it if in the future she continued to do a cost analysis of all the materials on projects!

    • @lenabreijer1311
      @lenabreijer1311 2 роки тому +50

      Unfortunately garment manufacturers have never paid a living wage, ever. My mother worked in the industry when ever my parents needed extra money and I can assure you we would not have been able to live of that money.
      My great grandfather was a tailor and that family lived way below the poverty line. My grandmother left school at 9 in order to start working in a big house kitchen. Her older sisters made more money working the streets.

    • @thegreenroom338
      @thegreenroom338 2 роки тому +20

      When you look at the amount of labour it’s not so surprising. 201 hours is 5 weeks of labour for one person. I recently made a long, pleated, black skirt and I estimated that it would be an $NZD1600 skirt! I spent about 45 hours on it.

    • @karowolkenschaufler7659
      @karowolkenschaufler7659 2 роки тому +38

      I think this is exactly what Karl Marx means when he writes about the alianation of the customer/consumer and the making of a product. he wrote about that more than a century ago now... and we still have this problem... frustrating. and a viciuos cycle. if you want to pay people less than you should, to get rich yourself, those people still need consumer products they can afford. otherwise they understand how poor they are and riot or go on strike.... and to manufacture those cheap consumer products you exploit people in oter countries that don't have much of a choice but to take any shitty job they can get because otherwise they wouls just starve ... because the economy in their countries is still suffering from the country once having been a colony..... it's a very sick system we have grown into...

  • @kimbelinag
    @kimbelinag 2 роки тому +803

    Abby - your $7,000 estimate is just the raw cost. If you were selling it, you need to add overhead and profit margin.The lace gown price definitely includes those items. When I worked bridal, sales price was double the wholesale cost. So figure a retail / selling price more like $14-15,000 for your gown. How fancy!

    • @AbbyCox
      @AbbyCox  2 роки тому +282

      Yeah I thought about discussing whole vs retail markup, but since I paid retail for the materials and not wholesale, it felt kinda awkward trying to bring in wholesale vs retail discussion. So I just…didn’t. 🤣 (plus just rambling about keystone markup etc 🤣🤣🤣)

    • @kimbelinag
      @kimbelinag 2 роки тому +63

      @@AbbyCox LOL! I had the same thought about trying to explain keystoning and just...yeah. Not gonna go there.

    • @lenabreijer1311
      @lenabreijer1311 2 роки тому +92

      @@AbbyCox no. The wholesale cost of fabrics would depend on the volume you buy. The retail price would still be between 30 to 50% over the cogs. The "cost of goods sold" is based on your cost of materials plus your overhead plus the labour costs. Even your wholesale price would need a percentage mark up over your cogs if you were selling through a boutique.
      I wrote the software for garment companies in the 70s and 80s to calculate all this stuff.

    • @adedow1333
      @adedow1333 2 роки тому +41

      @@lenabreijer1311 that's so cool that you know this stuff! I mean how awesome is this community that we have such a wide array of skills and knowledge?! I'm just excited to read this!

    • @Kimberly_Sparkles
      @Kimberly_Sparkles 2 роки тому +67

      @@lenabreijer1311 I worked at Hancock Fabrics as a manager 1998-2000. This was the markup they used for their fabrics' retail pricing: 30-50%. Sales were often 20%. Joane's pricing in the late 90s moved price to 100% markup and perennially offered 50% off sales. People went to Joane in droves and often paid more for a sale than they would for full retail at Hancock. Drove me crazy.

  • @anonymousperson4214
    @anonymousperson4214 2 роки тому +171

    Silk gauze: beautiful
    The person who has to sew it: slowly slipping into insanity...

    • @therussianprincess7036
      @therussianprincess7036 2 роки тому +16

      I mean, I still remember how having to repair a black chiffon skirt with very thin thread put me off of sewing for half a year, so I cannot imagine the struggle with black silk gauze...

  • @daisanders82
    @daisanders82 2 роки тому +126

    I love the cost break down. It really puts it into perspective for those who don't sew or similar creative work that there's a reason the ubiquitous "I'll pay you $50" is downright laughable and kinda offensive. Fast fashion has really done the dirty on society in costing of stuff and how much things really should cost.

  • @elleminnowpee
    @elleminnowpee 2 роки тому +351

    "Never throw anything away, everythings useful." Spoken like a true maker Abby.

    • @lucasmcinnis5045
      @lucasmcinnis5045 2 роки тому +26

      Abby casually validating my hoarding

    • @System-zu7np
      @System-zu7np 2 роки тому +12

      My fiance joked about my mini hoarding problem until it came in clutch a few times lol

    • @lisam5744
      @lisam5744 2 роки тому +6

      Abby spoke to my frugal little heart with that line.

    • @agcons
      @agcons 2 роки тому +7

      And my late mother, bless her. She was born in the mid 1920s into a poor family, and that plus the Great Depression had a serious impact on her. There was a broom-closet sized room in our basement that was full of nothing but empty boxes - so useful for gifts, mailing, you just never knew.

    • @kentario1610
      @kentario1610 2 роки тому +3

      Especially when gesturing with a paper album cover, which I've used like four times in the last month to make new sketchbook covers.

  • @alexipembrooke3510
    @alexipembrooke3510 2 роки тому +378

    “It’s nothing that some bows, a few ruffles, and a belt can’t hide” is how I’m now approaching every single problem I face thank you so much. Also, this is EXQUISITE. I think this is finally pushing me to tackle my own garment making adventure! You should be more than proud of yourself with all your hard work.

    • @meacadwell
      @meacadwell 2 роки тому +17

      I honestly think that trim was invented, a millenia ago, to cover up mistakes or too short cuts. My son says, "sewing is nothing but a bunch of mistakes that you have to try to figure out how to cover up and make look good."

    • @kristen5998
      @kristen5998 2 роки тому +5

      @@meacadwell that’s actually true!

    • @kimbelinag
      @kimbelinag 2 роки тому +9

      As my mother always says, "it'll never show on a galloping horse."

  • @nidomhnail2849
    @nidomhnail2849 2 роки тому +235

    Beautiful, just beautiful.
    I would bump up the hourly rate - the rate used works for wages, but for an entrepreneur, there is the cost of the non-fabric materials (pattern paper, thread, etc), equipment, and upkeep. There is also the cost of snacks and toys for the pups, all essentials.

  • @oliviamainardi9321
    @oliviamainardi9321 2 роки тому +180

    I really appreciate the comparison of the cost of past vs present. Puts a lot into perspective and is incredibly interesting. I don't think people really understand the value of the craft and how time consuming hand sewing and attention to detail is. Bravo on the whole project 👏🏼 it's beautiful 🥂

    • @carolempluckrose4188
      @carolempluckrose4188 2 роки тому +21

      Slightly different handmade work pricing.
      I made our nephew a cross stitch large picture for his Christening. I added gold threads, a lot of hand heading and other improvements. It took me over 100 hours of work. The maternal grandmother announced "I want one". Naturally she expected this free and gratis. So, when I said that there was 100 hours work in it, "does £10.00 per hour sound fair to you, £1000.00 in total?" For some odd reason, she changed her mind. All the handwork, materials, taken just don't seem to be appreciated these days in our 'grab it quick and cheap' society today.
      I made our delicate, premature arrival niece her Christening gown. I didn't actually add up the cost because I just didn't think of it. On reflection, if bought commercially today, there wouldn't be much change from 4-figures.
      I think you have underestimated your work in monetary terms by quite a large margin.
      The dress is absolutely beautiful. Your many hours of hard work shine through. Well done Abbey.

  • @pay1370
    @pay1370 2 роки тому +86

    Immidiatly ripping something after trying it on is just peak costuming culture

  • @MeTalkPrettyOneDay
    @MeTalkPrettyOneDay 2 роки тому +204

    Those calculations are a nice reminder of why I refuse to do commissions. Even at NY state minimum wage, I'd have to charge >$75 for a relatively basic (no fittings) shirt. Thanks fast fashion for the looks of horror I get for that.

    • @susanrobertson984
      @susanrobertson984 2 роки тому +22

      And yet that is a fantastic price for a luxury shirt.

    • @neffyg35
      @neffyg35 2 роки тому +35

      I would love to do custom work but I'm not arguing with people about why I can't make some dress they saw on Instagram for only $50 bucks. I can't. Unless someone is willing to pay for my time and work, they can go in shein and buy it for $20 and it falls apart after one wash

    • @zanet391
      @zanet391 2 роки тому +15

      @@neffyg35 On one hand, I can't afford buying 75 per shirt as a student (yes, I am the stereotype). On the other hand, I only shop FF for necessary essentials I keep for as long as I can and try to get to an almost capsule wardrobe. Most of the time I look for the thing in a second-hand store first if I can.
      IMO buying FF in moderation and only when needed is fine, but what I absolutely hate is when an influencer says they're broke but buy a 1k shein haul every 3 months. Of course you're broke when you waste 4k every year on cheap wont-last-10-washes plastic clothes when you absolutely could afford something more sustainable.

    • @danielnikolov2860
      @danielnikolov2860 2 роки тому +8

      @@zanet391 and if they spent 4k a year on quality items from Vestiaire, Vinted etc or supported people who make high quality stuff, they wouldn’t even think of looking to FF again. It upsets me just thinking about how low quality that stuff is let alone touching or wearing it lol. The complete ethical vacuum aside

    • @hillshounds
      @hillshounds 2 роки тому +18

      I handknit socks. I consider myself an expert level knitter. When people ask me what I'd charge to knit them a pair of socks, I say $600. So far, no commissions, which suits me just fine. I will continue to luxuriate in the beauty and comfort of handknit socks without the nuisance of having to knit them for anybody else (except random gifts to knit-worthy friends and family).

  • @haileygaida125
    @haileygaida125 2 роки тому +79

    I really appreciate you breaking down the cost of a gown like this and would love to see you (and other costumers/historical reconstructors) do it more. My estimate was WAY off. It really helps put things into perspective for someone who doesn’t sew but enjoys historical fashions.

  • @crystilmurch5659
    @crystilmurch5659 2 роки тому +130

    It's just so pretty! Also, this is a GREAT lesson in not undervaluing ourselves and our work. So often we don't rate things properly because we don't value our time well enough. Heck of a reminder that our time has value. Thank you for sharing all of this! It was incredibly inspiring! (As well as a reality check on cost of materials and why budgets are important.)

  • @nurmaybooba
    @nurmaybooba 2 роки тому +75

    This came out exquisite. Looks beautiful on you. And all the cost comparison shows the total disconnect between classes since we all know those ladies working on these fashions then were not paid anything near a decent wage even for then...To pay $21000 for a gown that has no real shelf life( meaning how many times will it be worn) in those days would support a village or two in 1902! The Gilded Age was indeed the one of robber barons! Just like today! But the gown is beautiful...AND more importantly YOU look fabulous in it.

  • @MorganDonner
    @MorganDonner 2 роки тому +135

    THIS. This is so unearthly gorgeous, I'm just 👻

  • @rolleicord
    @rolleicord 2 роки тому +17

    I do love the clear unabashed madness of this channel. Nicole, Chrissy and yourself are clearly barking mad (also bloody skilled, passionate and fun) I hope you continue to put a little ding in the world for many more videos.

  • @katwitanruna
    @katwitanruna 2 роки тому +86

    Every other hooks is how you ensure no accidents at the ball. Or at least none you can’t easily hide with a fan.

    • @LucianCorrvinus
      @LucianCorrvinus 2 роки тому +7

      Offff Edwardian wardrobe malfunctions....the mind reels....

  • @ViolentOrchid
    @ViolentOrchid 2 роки тому +44

    The auto-zoom while you stitched the darts is a mood.

  • @teresasimpson5143
    @teresasimpson5143 2 роки тому +25

    I love the friendship you have with Chrissy and Nicole. I wish I had friends like all of you. I also with I were good at math so I could make drafts like you do. All that math makes my brain hurt, lol.

    • @AllTheHappySquirrels
      @AllTheHappySquirrels 2 роки тому +1

      I just want to hang out with them and soak up all the things.

  • @bellablue5285
    @bellablue5285 2 роки тому +63

    The dress is beautiful, can't wait to see the final tweaks.
    Have to admit a bit of sticker shock as someone not in the business, though I'm not surprised (not sure how to better explain, knew it would be expensive, but did not expect 6+ months of mortgage payments expensive, though with the breakdown it makes sense).

    • @AbbyCox
      @AbbyCox  2 роки тому +36

      Yeah, labor is *expensive* 🤣

    • @bellablue5285
      @bellablue5285 2 роки тому +16

      @@AbbyCox materials, labor, overhead, adds up quickly. I definitely appreciate the breakdown in the video, think it's one thing to be a casual viewer and see something built that's totally out of our capability, but being that casual viewer and understanding how it relates, just wow, y'all are even more amazing for what you do

    • @nurmaybooba
      @nurmaybooba 2 роки тому +3

      @@AbbyCox labor is only expensive today then labor was cheap.

    • @bellablue5285
      @bellablue5285 2 роки тому +4

      @@nurmaybooba seems larger pool of skilled labor too before the rise of fast fashion? I'll admit I tend to do my own alterations, in terms of finding someone local there's maybe one dry cleaner who offers alteration services, and I'm in a small city with a large business/banking presence which requires business casual or more formal attire

    • @nurmaybooba
      @nurmaybooba 2 роки тому +6

      @@bellablue5285 many women sewed for their bread in the old days because I would bet all women knew how to sew somewhat at least ; since all of the peasants( like us really) had to sew our own clothes or make over cast offs. I admire these ladies who do these channels.

  • @catherinerw1
    @catherinerw1 2 роки тому +48

    Nothing like “hey, yes, I CAN do it, make something amazing that knocks a Worth gown into a cocked hat”
    And now, to go from one sequin-tastic watch to another (Strictly Come Dancing… far less hand-work, far more hot glue and fake tan)

  • @commodorezelda
    @commodorezelda 2 роки тому +51

    Abby: "like $30 an hour is minimum to live comfortably"
    Me: *cries in veterinary assistant wages*

    • @djm050
      @djm050 2 роки тому +4

      I know I thought the same thing "I sew I will take that job right now!! Lol" I sell furniture and it's not 30 an hour lol

    • @gigglesmurf2004
      @gigglesmurf2004 2 роки тому +7

      Oh, I feel that. Everyone wants to work with animals until they find out there’s not a lot of money in it. Dealing with death on a daily basis also has a lot thinking twice.

  • @WayToVibe
    @WayToVibe 2 роки тому +11

    OMG, having a friend who can wear your custom drafted clothing so that you can do fittings on them as a living mannequin is awesome! A dress form that can give you feedback is way better than one that doesn't!

  • @AsagaoSTL
    @AsagaoSTL 2 роки тому +44

    Abby, 2 questions. 1. What about overhead? The rent of the shop space, the wages of the non-dress-making staff, the cost of gas/candles, and all of that other stuff? Somebody had to be making an actual profit, right? 2. Did you make your own "Cox Couture" label to stitch into the band of the bodice? :) Abby, you are so great and I'm glad that I came across your channel. I could watch you make paper airplanes and still be entertained by your fantastic humor and personality.

    • @Crosshill
      @Crosshill 2 роки тому +2

      i hope the lack of overhead is how some things on etsy are so cheap

  • @sarahtaylor4264
    @sarahtaylor4264 2 роки тому +19

    $30 an hour to acheive a comfortable life is crazy to me. Where I live you can do it reasonably easily on $20 an hour depending on circumstances. I'm at $13 plus overtime on a full time schedule. I currently live with family, but can become self-sufficient and move out if I save up for another year (single individual, no children or pets). It will be tight, but possible. If my state had an income tax I would need a significantly higher paycheck. I feel every dollar that comes out for federal taxes, SS and Medicare.
    It is amazing how much quality, sustainable, fair wage clothing costs. I don't want to buy fast fashion where possible, but I can't afford the alternative. I shop secondhand and keep clothing as long as possible instead. As a bonus it allows me to support local small businesses.

  • @salvagemania
    @salvagemania 2 роки тому +9

    I was surprised by the costs, but remembered that wedding gowns have similar price tags.

  • @thehistoricallyadequatesea4395
    @thehistoricallyadequatesea4395 2 роки тому +3

    You look stunning. The gown is beautiful on you. What a tour d'force! Silk net is a stone cold bench to work with. Imagine a ballgown style wedding dress with a double circle skirt. I didn't think I was ever gonna get that hem finished! A thing my Nana taught me; If you need a bit more 'perk' with your net, iron it with waxed paper between parchment papers. The wax is absorbed by the silk a little bit, adds some extra body when it cools and doesn't change the hand or appearance of the net. Bravo ; D

  • @alanna2968
    @alanna2968 2 роки тому +22

    So impressed! I know the very minimal about sewing. My grandmother was a hobby seamstress and even as as kid I thought it was so amazing. I knew the patience involved was more than I could handle even as a kid. 😆 watching you guys work is incredible!

  • @misscandle
    @misscandle 2 роки тому +40

    This gown is unbelievably enchanting and elegant! And so very flattering, too! Great work! 🤩

  • @tjs114
    @tjs114 2 роки тому +9

    One mistake in your maths is that the seamstresses who would have made that dress wouldn't have received what you consider a living wage in the 1900s. Seamstresses were paid by the piece completed all the way into the 1950s in the US.

  • @Noel.Chmielowiec
    @Noel.Chmielowiec 2 роки тому +8

    I love this chaotic energy 😂 I am the same when I'm sewing. I always give myself crazy deadlines. Victorian walking skirt handsewn in 3 days? Why not xD (It took a week in reality)

  • @katwitanruna
    @katwitanruna 2 роки тому +12

    I ❤️ that grided paper and never throw anything away.

  • @runoamignar7975
    @runoamignar7975 2 роки тому +5

    Its costube sunday mah dudes

  • @amynehls4175
    @amynehls4175 2 роки тому +2

    Beautiful 😍.
    Also sent me on a mental math rabbit hole working out the time / labour of all the "wardrobe items" I've made for myself in the past year 😶. I no longer feel guilty about telling people I don't sew for others 😏 I don't think friends would understand a £400+ price .

  • @melissamybubbles6139
    @melissamybubbles6139 2 роки тому +15

    Do you think the pieces made by you and other historical costumers will ever be displayed in museums? That would be lovely.

    • @m.maclellan7147
      @m.maclellan7147 2 роки тому +3

      It would be cool as they could screen show the IG posts & the YT videos as well.....

  • @christacorvidae615
    @christacorvidae615 2 роки тому +1

    I just wanted to say that Chrissy's hair looks amazing!

  • @piperevelyn2446
    @piperevelyn2446 2 роки тому +16

    That dress is so so so beautiful, I love it.

  • @dianavoermans
    @dianavoermans 2 роки тому +13

    This is one heck of a project! Thanks for sharing! And yes, I too start projects when half way I highly doubt if I was totally sane when starting 😂 So good to have friends who come to the rescue and help 👍🏼

  • @woodenkat8971
    @woodenkat8971 2 роки тому +6

    Its not a mediocre reveal, it's the soft opening!

  • @SimpleDesertRose
    @SimpleDesertRose 2 роки тому +8

    Hands down this is the most amazing and beautiful couture dress I have seen on UA-cam to date! Eat your heart out Bernadette, well not really. Her velvet gown was beautiful too. But Damn, Abby! You have got curves for days! As my h as I potty your poor hands, the finished result is totally worth it. Next time you decide to involve Chrissy in your shenanigans, you should let her dye your hair pink too. Maybe Nicole's too. Then we know for fact that not only do you have the coolest friends ever, but the shenanigans are about to get real. 😉

  • @Chibihugs
    @Chibihugs 2 роки тому +5

    Pardon me while I flail and swoon over this bodice and skirt!!! I was not ready...🤯💙👏🏽👏🏽👏🏽 Be still my Edwardian fashion loving heart!

  • @sl33pw17h4ng3l5
    @sl33pw17h4ng3l5 2 роки тому +1

    Chrissy's hair is always great, but the braiding at 11:15 is SPECTACULAR!!!! I LOVE it!! ^__^

  • @dddevel8
    @dddevel8 2 роки тому +21

    This is so amazing! You look fucking BOMB in that dress oh my lord your waist is EVERYTHING!! Blessed be historical drafting! Shapeshifting illusion goddess 🖤

  • @cedarwriter26
    @cedarwriter26 2 роки тому +4

    When Chrissy looks to the side during the fitting, she gives a great Portrait of Madame X vibe.

    • @KKIcons
      @KKIcons 2 роки тому

      The dress style was sure flattering on her too.

  • @ashleah5458
    @ashleah5458 2 роки тому +38

    I’ve often heard that materials were more expensive and labor was cheaper historically. Would like to see how that factored in as well. Maybe that’s pre-Edwardian though?

    • @djm050
      @djm050 2 роки тому +4

      I'm just graduates for fashion merchandising and pretty much on a "balanced" cost sheet material is always the bulk of of your costing because we wouldn't in theory spend 30 years to hand sew polyester lace on a polyester fabric. The more the labor the cost in typically means the more we invest in what we make our garments with

    • @djm050
      @djm050 2 роки тому +1

      Eww bad grammar ***I just****

  • @sheleavitt06
    @sheleavitt06 2 роки тому +10

    The cost was very interesting. I wish all historical cosTubers would do that.

  • @livsterlove5681
    @livsterlove5681 2 роки тому +2

    This dress unintentionally became the best Halloween gown ever! 🎃

  • @amymullen9489
    @amymullen9489 2 роки тому +11

    Just gorgeous. And the cost analysis is terrific. Please keep including them!

  • @hillaguz3708
    @hillaguz3708 2 роки тому +1

    That dress!! I'm amazed by your talent!!! Also I love the dynamic between you and Christina and Nicole

  • @sharoncole8249
    @sharoncole8249 2 роки тому +2

    💖👑👑💖👏👏 this dress is one of the most beautiful dresses i have seen made .Its just stunningly beautiful. You should be really proud of yourself. Looks amazing 💖😊💖xx Its worth every penny .i bet you could make some amazing wedding dresses in this time period so romantic xx

  • @HaphazardPeach
    @HaphazardPeach 2 роки тому +1

    "same shit, different decade" almost made me spit out my coffee jfc i love watching your vids so much.

  • @veronicat3700
    @veronicat3700 2 роки тому +10

    Love your videos and the tutorial content showing the evolution of the pattern through the fitting. You keep it real talking about the "real" body shapes women have. Plus the way you present the videos is a really good mix of humour, historical and tutorial content. Thank you from the UK

  • @argusfleibeit1165
    @argusfleibeit1165 2 роки тому +1

    So pretty! "A thing of beauty is a joy forever". That's the kind of dress I would keep putting on just to have it, to put on and enjoy, even if going nowhere.

  • @TheMetatronGirl
    @TheMetatronGirl 2 роки тому +1

    Argh! I didn’t get my Patreon notification. 😭 Top tier Edwardian couture or not, this dress is one of the prettiest things I’ve ever seen. You look absolutely gorgeous in it!! I found the cost correlation really interesting! It illustrated the value of fabric and clothing as an investment, and definitely has made me rethink my stance that you’re only paying for a name with couture items. I’m always learning new things from you!
    I’d offer a stranger a hug if I saw they were sad, so I’m sending virtual hugs to you and Nicole, and Chrissy.

  • @bonniehyden962
    @bonniehyden962 2 роки тому +1

    I have always wondered about the cost comparison between now and then. Thank you for that addition, M'Lady. You created an absolutely stunning dress!!! You have EVERY right to be EXTREMELY proud of yourself!

  • @julzgulz1992
    @julzgulz1992 2 роки тому +13

    I love the cost and comparison deep dive. So interesting!

  • @sveapollock2537
    @sveapollock2537 2 роки тому

    Another award winning production from Abby Cox & Co. Not only do you provide hilarious content and commentary but you provide so much useful information for the sewist, both historical and modern. I have been seeing since I was 10 (took an old tablecloth and made a skirt) and have learned more from you about fitting and drafting than I ever knew before. I think that one of the reasons that fitted, flattering garments went out of style was the advent of ready made clothing. But you provide all this in such a real way. Your camaraderie with your friends, your humor, your display of real thoughts and emotions, plus all this well researched and carefully explained useful information make me eagerly await your videos. Please tell me that Chrissy is not moving permanently. She is the perfect “straight man” in your comedy team while Nicole is the perfect foil of normality for you and Chrissy. Dress is, as always, perfection. Cost analysis is valuable but fun and shenanigans - priceless.
    BTW Watched a PBS documentary on Selfridge’s department store last night that you might like.
    AND duck walk at fitting hilarious!!!!

  • @rubytook8067
    @rubytook8067 2 роки тому +8

    Woohoo!!! I've been eagerly awaiting this since you uploaded the skirt video! 🎉
    Edit: It's GORGEOUS!!! 😍
    Edit 2: Thank you for including the price comparison! That was fantastic.

  • @WithLoveKristina
    @WithLoveKristina 2 роки тому

    You singing JEFFREEEY JEFFREY BEZOS at the end sent me. LMAOOOO
    this dress turned out GORGEOUS. like WOW. And I love that you figured out what it would have been then and what it was now, I find that stuff to be FASCINATING.

  • @pippaseaspirit4415
    @pippaseaspirit4415 Рік тому +1

    Whenever I’m watching a video on sewing an item with a lot of decorative features, and someone says they did something “roughly”, my brain hears “ruffly” and grins at the aptness of it! Ruffly dresses get ruffly pinned 😂.

  • @beccitatefitzjohn7804
    @beccitatefitzjohn7804 2 роки тому +2

    Abby, it's so beautiful. Bloody well done! Also, seeing you working with help makes me feel so much better about the struggles of fitting a pattern on myself. Need me some sewing friends!

  • @BradKandyCroftFamily
    @BradKandyCroftFamily 2 роки тому +1

    Loved this and the work you put into this Abby. This just emphasizes why fast fashion is even a thing. I can't afford to dress my entire family on $7,000 in a 2 year period, let alone buy a single dress for that much. We are very solid middle class, too. I am glad we have progressed past the poor being lucky to have 2 hand me down out outfits, if they are lucky. Things aren't perfect, but that doesn't mean we need to bash something that has greatly helped the poor. Fast fashion to couture and everything in between has a place and I love looking at beautiful things, especially hand made dresses.

  • @elizabethstephens6471
    @elizabethstephens6471 2 роки тому +1

    I absolutely find your work, filming and editing so very entertaining. The comparisons and research are very impressive. Thank you for all your hard work!

  • @gildedgitta
    @gildedgitta 2 роки тому +2

    You look like you walked out of an illustration! What a beautiful work and you carry it so well ♡

  • @jocypare6019
    @jocypare6019 2 роки тому

    Abby. You are the only one responsible for the spark of interest in me learning how to sow.

  • @evadeleon3009
    @evadeleon3009 2 роки тому +2

    I'm a pageant gal and my friends are constantly shocked by the cost of my custom hand made gowns. I'm so glad you included the cost comparison as well as the mention of labor costs. Totally made me feel much more normal about what I spend. And usually I just end the conversation with, "that's what my designers are worth and that's what I pay", no haggling.

  • @lourdesgallegos7508
    @lourdesgallegos7508 2 роки тому +1

    I am a alterations specialist/dress maker. I work mainly in the bridal industry and I still get looks of horror when brides ask me to make their bridesmaids gowns and I quote them what I would charge. I tell them they’re better off ordering a dress and having me do the alterations. They always tell me that the design is “super simple” ha!

  • @roxannlegg750
    @roxannlegg750 2 роки тому

    I am VERY glad you calculated and told us the hours - because I struggle with this too. We have been historical costumers for nearly 20 years - my first Victorian outfit was an 1890's walking ensemble and when non costuming friends just feel blown away with a ll the comments about "how incredible you are - youre just SOOOO talented", what they dont see is the pure hours we put into any one gown. My Romantic silk Jacquared brown Dress, complete with tiny piping everywhere - decorative bias strips along seams and all the detail that comes with a Romantic era gown), firends have NO idea just how much time goes into this. It took me weeks of constant work. And then theres thinking time - you didnt calculate thinking time - the "how am I going to do that" hours we spend. And with the messy house after the event - thats a universal constat with creative ppl who have worked continually for months on something! Awesome - well done!

  • @persiswynter6357
    @persiswynter6357 2 роки тому +2

    Excellent video, Abby!
    I use wrapping paper with the grid behind for first drafts. After Xmas, and the ugliest pattern I can find (keeps people from absconding with some!)

  • @amaeve1950
    @amaeve1950 2 роки тому +1

    The boss bit*h vibe in the oversize white shirt with the rolled up sleeves is life!!!! 👌

  • @starshinedragonsong3045
    @starshinedragonsong3045 2 роки тому

    I love how when Abby is explaining things around the 8 minute mar, she's got the thimble on her finger. she's waving her hand around, pointing to things, and talking ever so casually with it on as if she's forgotten that it's even there. :-)

  • @IceWeirdo
    @IceWeirdo 2 роки тому

    The look from the beginning: I feel like you're channelling Edna Mode from The Incredibles.
    "No capes! Absolutely no capes!

  • @JSJSpeaks
    @JSJSpeaks 2 роки тому +1

    Yesssss I’m so stoked to see the bodice!

  • @polinaignatenkova3634
    @polinaignatenkova3634 2 роки тому

    The evil chipmunk cackle for the imperial system just sent me into orbit from laughter

  • @layneistired
    @layneistired 2 роки тому +2

    I can't even sew nor am I a historian, Im just here to admire your craftsmanship

  • @zeenalendor6233
    @zeenalendor6233 2 роки тому +5

    So excited for this dress!!!

  • @TealCheetah
    @TealCheetah 2 роки тому +4

    Wooo! It looks great!

  • @lauraoergel6003
    @lauraoergel6003 2 роки тому +1

    DAMN, ABBY. way to go lady! You did beautiful work, and you look like a bavarian princess in this gown 😍😍😍 the proportions, pleating and downward arrow shapes down the center give you SUCH a sensuous look, VA. VA. VOOM. also love the cute little bows!!
    Watching again and even with lowest possible wages for seamstresses, they'd get 1/3 of what we make proportionally, so the dresses would have essentiallybeen UNDERVALUED at the time . Even still, hugely expensive and a luxury item for sure. And gorgeous

  • @katwitanruna
    @katwitanruna 2 роки тому +2

    That is stunning!

  • @FlybyStardancer
    @FlybyStardancer 2 роки тому +5

    It came out gorgeous!!

  • @carlyblack42
    @carlyblack42 2 роки тому +14

    It turned out amazing! And I love your breakdown of the costs and comparison. So the dress is bougie nice, but not Met Gala. A well to do banker's wife would wear such a dress, but not nobility. I love the context!

  • @kimberlymelchert6639
    @kimberlymelchert6639 2 роки тому +6

    It looks so beautiful Abby!! Congrats on yet another gorgeous garment! You're amazing! 💖💖💖

  • @norariley7109
    @norariley7109 2 роки тому +1

    This dress is so GORGEOUS!!! Absolutely beautiful Abby!!!

  • @hellodollyagainchristophel2105

    The comparative amounts you give about a dress in the Edwardian period and your dress now ins very interesting. Thanks a lot for that and your marvelous work. I admire.

  • @bespoke_heirlooms
    @bespoke_heirlooms 2 роки тому +1

    I loved watching both of these videos, thanks to you and Bernadette Banner, I want to make myself a lingerie dress! Seeing the design and construction process gives a real insight into how this clothing was made. The price comparison also helps establish that most women who worked as dressmakers in those times didn’t earn a living wage, so they were basically the working poor; which is akin to the fast fashion factory workers of today.

  • @Odontecete
    @Odontecete 2 роки тому +8

    Absolutely gorgeous gown! Fantastic base cost breakdown for the gown too!

  • @erinw1987
    @erinw1987 2 роки тому +4

    This is beautiful. Thanks so much for your work and for documenting it for the rest of us.

  • @blueipot
    @blueipot 2 роки тому +2

    This dress is stunning!

  • @sarah-phillips
    @sarah-phillips 2 роки тому +5

    YES!! Just opened UA-cam and saw you posted and I’m so friggin excited to watch!

  • @charliemum
    @charliemum 2 роки тому +3

    It's absolutely perfect 🥰

  • @arpakh
    @arpakh 2 роки тому +1

    This is a dress to die for! And you look amazing in it!

  • @jeanettemartinkolnok2455
    @jeanettemartinkolnok2455 2 роки тому

    I LOVE this dress! It's gorgeous! Well done Abby!

  • @adedow1333
    @adedow1333 2 роки тому

    Well done, Abby!!! It's wonderful!

  • @sonorasgirl
    @sonorasgirl 2 роки тому +1

    That’s beautiful! This dress is STUNNING

  • @rebawasswass3716
    @rebawasswass3716 2 роки тому +3

    You should be proud! It's gorgeous! You are soooo talented! Thank you for sharing!

  • @shannonwold638
    @shannonwold638 2 роки тому

    STUNNING!

  • @jeannebrooks6003
    @jeannebrooks6003 8 місяців тому +1

    I think you undervalued that outfit! Perhaps $15k would be more accurate. It is gorgeous!

  • @m.maclellan7147
    @m.maclellan7147 2 роки тому

    Stunning ! Love the hijinks with Chrissy & Nicole !

  • @RobynMelloITProfessional
    @RobynMelloITProfessional 2 роки тому

    I ABSOLUTELY LOVE this gown!

  • @eviescotia
    @eviescotia 2 роки тому +1

    Omg this dress is freaking amazingly stunning 😻😻😻