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W126 Benz What to do when the ABS warning light comes on
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- Опубліковано 12 сер 2024
- W126 Benz What to do when the ABS warning light comes on and / or when the brake pedal pulses just before coming to a stop. Checking the over voltage relay, wheel sensors, and the electrical sensor output.
Thanks for all the help 😊you are the best
Thanks!
Bingo. My was a 10A fuse. My overload relay has 2 10A fuses one was blown. Switched it out and my car starts on first crank and now I have better idol at start. Thank you sir.
Oh wow. Nice detective work. all the best.
Hi and many thanks for this. I have this issue with my 190E, 2.5, 16v. Now i know what to look for.
Glad you liked it. Did it work?
@@straybenzes Yes Sir, it worked great. Many thanks again.
This guy's perfect, gentleman
Awww. Thank you.
Hello my friend, thanks for your video. The following way is easier and is recommended by Mercedes (without turning the wheel):
Set the multimeter to Ω. The value should show 1.0 Ω. Now wiggle the ABS cable in the wheel house. If the value changes, the cable
is defective. It's easier, more accurate and you don't need a jack.
Easier, yes. Unfortunately, this not a catch all either though. Good to know.
from Iraq
Thank you very much
Glad you liked it
Hello from Finland and thanks for the video. I have 83 SE 380 with abs problem. Light goes on every time when car is moving. Sensor is clean and ok, so as ovp relay. I really dont know what is the problem. Thank you man.
Hi Ari. Did you jack up the front of the car and test each side's sensor like shown in the video? There should not be a difference in the generated voltage. If the car is at standstill, engine on, and the light stays off and then comes on while the car is in motion it is most likely one of the three sensors (the rear one is on the differential) even if it "looks" good. All the best! Ralf
Now this is a car for your style
Yup
Hi Ralph - Just had New rotors and calipers installed. Now ABS light is on. Mechanic says wires look old. Tells me to buy new sensors. What would your recommendation be? Same troubleshooting procedure as shown in the video?
That is an interesting mechanic. Going by the looks of wires is only part of the story. A good mechanic would have checked into that situation in more detail. If the light was not one before this work and now it is on seems to be very peculiar to say the least. The whole hub has to come off for the rotor replacement. The hub covers the tip of the sensor. Metal debris from working on rusty brakes and hub can mess up the sensor response. An inexperienced mechanic may have damaged the toothed ABS ring on the hub. Does the light come and stay on immediately upon starting the car, or does it come on once you start driving? The latter can be the symptoms of that. The procedure can be used to tell you which side may be damaged. The sensor is held in place with a small M6 screw (5mm Allen) but sometimes it is very difficult if not impossible to remove so you could inspect the sensor tip without removing the hub. Good luck checking this out.
Stray Benzes Turn the car on, backed into driveway, pull forward a few feet, they remain off. Can’t drive car now because of cars behind me on single lane driveway. Don’t know if that helps. Can drive later. Thanks Ralph.
Thanks you for the video!
Do you something similar for the ASR? Light is on, cruise does'nt work (dont know about ABS). Where to start looking?
The cruise control is separate from the ASR. Will put ASR troubleshooting on the long list of requests. Start with troubleshooting the wiring for the automatic restraint system. Airbag(s), G force sensor (under ashtray on the tranny tunnel), and belt tensioners for starters. Use a power probe. Fun stuff, huh?
@@straybenzes 😃
@@taanielreimers6938 🤞
Good morning Ralph,
Will a disconnected brake sensor affect the abs sensor performance? 🤔 🤔 Thanks
Al
Are you referring to the brake pad wear sensor? If so, those do no impact the ABS system.
Thanks
Hello thanks for the video... I have a 85' 380sl ...I tested the ABS magnetic sensors, think they might be bad but they are no longer available. My question is what about the ring speed sensors? No one ever seems to talk about those.
This car has been sitting a lot It only has 40k miles on it...just an FYI...
These cars were meant to be driven and long periods of sitting time is pretty hard on them. What you call ring sensors may just be a newer word used in place of the ABS sensors. These cars do not have modern "rings". Instead they must pick up a signal from a small toothed protrusion on the main hub. They can indeed go bad and once in a while you can still find them on Ebay.
Thanks for the reply: I did find that the right front sensor was not reading any Ohms.. I replaced it with a modified volvo/bosch sensor... Still no luck... I want to test the rear diff sensor, do you know where that terminates?
@@gabrielolar3222 The die cable plug sits behind the rear upright seat assembly.
@@straybenzes You know what after testing the front again I really don't get a consistent read for DC mv. However I do get consistent OHMs so I guess I'm gonna have to look at the hubs right?
So I looked around, your right there's only 1 used hub available and I don't even know if I can trust it. So this is a dead end:-) I've been reading a bit about what happened...sounds like high heat can cause the hub/ring to go bad. What happened exactly? Just a magnetic tooth on the hub that got fried?
Hello dear friend
Is there a video explaining how to change the drive belt
Yup. Here is the one for the V8s ua-cam.com/video/rJ54IkT_ai0/v-deo.html
@@straybenzes
Thank you very much
@@daiarjy2429 :)
But how do you test the rear sensor on the diff?
That one almost never goes bad - it is nicely protected from weather, dirt and no rust can get to it.
hi mine was w126 300sel ,car seldom drive this few day the abs light on but if knocking the ovp relay its gone .is that the ovp relay faulty ? or other i need to check on
Yeah, that is likely the relay. Fortunately these are fairly easy and cheap to replace. You just need to get the correct one. They fifer on how they are mounted and how many fuses they have.
You had your terminals a different way around each time? Why?
For this test polarity does not matter.
Hi I have a issue in my w202 abs light is on
1) If the car stop the engine for 2 to 3 hours ans start abs light is on.
2) Once I see these lights, I let the engine run for 1-2 minutes, then turn off.
3) Then I restart the engine again, the lights off with No malfunction.
4) After this, these lights won’t light no matter how long you drive and how many times you start the engine.
I have tried reset the sensor by turning left/right on wheel for a few times, the same situation re-appear above.
Hi Ranga. Looks like you have a 90s C Class there. Those had OBD2 diagnostics. I would either loan the code reader or buy one (that model was infamous for all sorts of electrical gremlins). Get the code off of the on board computer when the light is on. There are multiple causes that will intermittently turn that warning light on. It could still be one of the three sensors (2 at the front wells and 1 on the rear differential). I have read about the alternator diode bridge possibly causing this. If the brake pedal is not pulsing just as you are coming to a stop with the ABS light off it is unlikely a sensor problem. Sorry for being only of limited help. Good luck!
@@straybenzes thank you very much for the advice.ill check that
@@rangasenavirathna4081 Good luck.
Hi i scanned the vehicle and it says a7k1 relay low vaultage.we replaced it but still same.replaced the ovp relay also
@@rangasenavirathna4081 I feel your pain. I did some looking around on the internet and found this post that contains the diagram where that relay sits. I am hoping this will help you. www.benzworld.org/threads/were-is-the-asr-relay-located.1361345/
will an abs light coming on disable the cruise control
No, the cruise control amp does not impact the ABS
@@straybenzes i changed my cruise control actuator and ecu but still no cruise control, I thought maybe because the BAS light is on it wills top the cruise control working
@@sas8403 9 times out of 10 it is a bad cruise control amplifier. Where did you get your replacement amplifier from? If it was just another used one from e.g. Ebay then I would say you should seek out a reputable electronics repair place and get your original one fixed. That is where I would start.
On my 1991 300D, the only problem is the low idle. No ABS light, or failing tachometer, just low idle when the engine is cold. When it warms up, the idle gets higher. Could it still be the OVP relay?
Yes, it could still be the OVP relay. Usually the tachometer also does not work when that happens though. When did this problem start?
@@straybenzes since I bought the car, about 1.5 years ago, it always had very low idle when it's cold, right about 500 rpm. But when it warms up it runs very smooth, at a higher idle speed. I'll look into it though, thanks for your help!
@@dinispaulino7512 Hmm. That makes the OVP being the problem less likely.
@@straybenzes I suspect the problem might be the red solenoid the sits behind the injection pump. That's what controls the idle speed according to the temperature, the screw that you can manually adjust is just a base setting for the idle. And the 1991 model doesn't use that ELR plug like the 1987 model. The problem is, those solenoids are only available from Bosch and are around 800$ new...
@@dinispaulino7512 Yeah, that would be my kind of luck also. I do believe that this is probably more likely to be the problem. Good luck!
Hi,I'm getting a fault that says(right/left front permanent )
Hmm, I am not familiar with that one.
@@straybenzes at first codes was to change front left/right sensors. I changed both and now I get esp light on and permanent front sensors
@@carlosarzu5318 Are the sensors new MB OEM style ones? Did you test both as per the video? If the voltage they generate is not right or they are shorted this is the fault you would see.
@@straybenzes yes mercedes benz change it. I don't want to keep giving them money if the issue is not being solved,I rather figure it out myself.
@@carlosarzu5318 That sounds like a plan.
U041500 ,b179b15,u041525 was one of the codes I had
HI Carlos. What model and year is this? OBD II only came about after 1995. U041500 is a rather generic code but it is a little suspicious that the this code set is only now showing. Start at the sensors and make sure that they are properly working. If you have a car with OVP then also make sure that it's fuse is not broken and replace the relay - they are cheap and can cause for the ABS light to come and stay on.
@@straybenzes mine is a 2013 Mercedes Benz c250.. I appreciate all your help.. Im going to check if I have a ovp fuse
@@carlosarzu5318 Ahh. There is no OVP on a Benz that young. Again, you will need to verify that the sensor are indeed ok and that all the different wires are ok also. Then I would recommend to get a good scanner to dig deeper into the codes. www.mercedesmedic.com/best-obd-2-can-scanners-for-car-diagnostics/ Good luck!
@@straybenzes I fixed my issue. I changed the tone-ring and know lights on cluster is cleared, thanks for all the pointers 🤟
@@carlosarzu5318 Congratulations! Great job and enjoy your future classic car.