I can't see a reason to turn off the BMSs ever unless they sit for several several months without being used, at which point it is easy enough to turn them of at the battery. They are meant to run 24/7 to keep the battery cells nicely balanced once they are over a certain voltage. As for the jumper for the safety lockout when charging; using a relay tapped into the A/C charger line, you can have it break the lockout circuit when it is plugged into A/C power for charging. I really like the use of the Renogy shunt/display, great find! Speaking from experience, it is easy to overthink all the "what if" senarios. Great video; thank you for taking the time to document and share your conversion.
Thank you for this timely reply. I was about to post an update here with some issues I’m having with my charging setup - when I plug in the charger the voltage jumps to 58.3 in a matter of seconds, never passing amperage, and the BMS shuts it down after about 10 seconds. I suspect it’s because cells are imbalanced. And because I only have the BMS on while the ranger is running, it never gets the time it needs to do its job. i also noticed one battery bank is at a substantially lower capacity, again likely the same issue. for now I'm going to replace the momentary switch for a latching to keep the BMS on. hopefully I haven't done any irreparable damage! cheers and thank you again for the comment.
Do you know if the BMSs have Bluetooth? A popular one is jkbms and you can connect to them with your phone to get the data. I would check that out first. Maybe the manufacturer can let you know. It does sound like your BMSs are going into protection mode, but without Bluetooth access or opening the cases to measure cell voltage, it is impossible to tell at this point. To make matters worse a BMS on a lifepo4 battery doesn’t start balancing until the voltage reach near full charge due to the flat voltage operating curve.
Man you saved me from a future head ache. I'm about to start a similar project. I'm also changing out the charger. Knowing to jump those wires is huge. Thank you.
Looks like the link for the batteries takes you to a different design now, with the BMS and connections on the side, rather than on the top. Makes me wonder whether there is room on the side, and what else might have changed about the battery box. What would you say are the max dimensions for a battery, LxWxH?
Which wires did you hook up to the momentary switch they sent me batteries with Bluetooth BMS so I had red wires that weren't hooked to anything inside and black wires that were hooked to the switch
Hey there - interesting not sure what is different with the Bluetooth model. If the switch is a standard latching push button and it activates the BMS then it should be fine to tap into either side of the switch and you can wire your new momentary switch in parallel. I still think going to the brake pedal is the cleanest, factory-like version 👍
Hey - thanks! I don’t recall the exact figures but I think it’s on the order of 500lbs lighter. Significant for a vehicle that size. It definitely feels lighter on its feet. Raw power delivery doesn’t seem to be a problem although I haven’t really pushed it hard yet. Haven’t tested range yet either. Think I’m still dealing with some charging gremlins..
Hello, thanks for a great video. I've just started my lithium conversion, my batteries are due to arrive in NZ from China next week. Not sure if it's pertinent but when I was communicating with my supplier in China I happened to say that I was connecting the 2 x 105ah batteries in parallel and their technical guy said I would need a parallel unit installed in each of the batteries. I believe it it balances them during charging but not completely sure. It added $45 per battery. I thought this might help with your charging issues. I have a picture of the unit in a battery but not quite sure how to send it here. I got my batteries from Alibaba - Shenzhen Honghaosheng Electronics Co., Ltd. I dealt with a guy called Jay Shen who was real helpful.
Hey! Thanks for posting this - super interesting. They didn’t mention a parallel kit when I purchased them (although I told them I’d be using them that way). But now I’m beginning to wonder if you are right - I think I might have caused some damage as one battery has all but died (last I checked showed a capacity of 3.5 ah) and won’t take a charge.. charger just ramps up to 58v almost instantly and the BMS shuts it down.. that was a week ago and today I went out to drive it and it was complete dead… anyone have any thoughts on this??
Very useful! Mahalo! wondering about the 12 system. I know there’s a 48-12 DCDC converter, but mine also had two 12 volt taps off the original battery pack, one on each set of four batteries side. What did you do with them? Not sure what they do…
Hey there - sorry for the tardy reply. Yes I saw those too - there are 12v acc ‘accessory’ taps toward the back, maybe for lighting, or other factory options. There are also two leads that went to each bank of 4 - labeled as ‘diode’ in the wiring manual. I disconnected them and zip-tied them to the frame.
@@outerspasc the two leads marked diode fuse - I've been trying to figure out what they are for. I have followed them on the wiring diagram (with a big illuminated magnifying glass!) but still not sure what they're for. One is rated 2.2amp and the other is rated 1.2amp but then they seem to join up and then go into the contactor-battery harness. Any idea what they could be for? Is it testing for an imbalance in the two old banks of lead acids maybe?
Hi @bomberpanda, I'm in the middle of converting one to lithium and it will need to climb a steep hill daily. The research I did suggested it can hit easily 350 - 400amps on the climb, so I ordered a pair of 105ah batteries that can have 200amp continuous discharge with a 400amp peak. They will be connected in parallel giving 400amp continuous and nearly 800amp peak. Going by all the sites I've read through this is way more than is required. A point to note - when ordering 2 batteries to connect in parallel they need to be specified as such, the good companies will then install a parallel unit to manage battery balancing.
Yeah this is good advice - I’ve learned the hard way that you can’t wire two batteries with independent BMSs in parallel without issues.. the bms’s have to be able to talk to each other. Most battery suppliers simply say you ‘can’ wire them in parallel… not if you should! I’m looking into options to salvage my setup.. been eyeing Batrium, but it’s expensive
Hi@@outerspasc, very nice video! I have two 100AH batteries on order from China which I will install in a similar manner as you did. I did not know about the parallel BMS problem. This problem sounds like a show-stopper.. I hope you find a solution and let everyone know.
hey - thanks! to be honest I haven't decided yet. Charger just landed so I'll hopefully get into it this week. Would be cool to use the factory wiring if possible. I'll see if I can post a follow up and address any other questions that come up.
I can't see a reason to turn off the BMSs ever unless they sit for several several months without being used, at which point it is easy enough to turn them of at the battery. They are meant to run 24/7 to keep the battery cells nicely balanced once they are over a certain voltage. As for the jumper for the safety lockout when charging; using a relay tapped into the A/C charger line, you can have it break the lockout circuit when it is plugged into A/C power for charging. I really like the use of the Renogy shunt/display, great find! Speaking from experience, it is easy to overthink all the "what if" senarios. Great video; thank you for taking the time to document and share your conversion.
Thank you for this timely reply. I was about to post an update here with some issues I’m having with my charging setup - when I plug in the charger the voltage jumps to 58.3 in a matter of seconds, never passing amperage, and the BMS shuts it down after about 10 seconds. I suspect it’s because cells are imbalanced. And because I only have the BMS on while the ranger is running, it never gets the time it needs to do its job. i also noticed one battery bank is at a substantially lower capacity, again likely the same issue. for now I'm going to replace the momentary switch for a latching to keep the BMS on. hopefully I haven't done any irreparable damage! cheers and thank you again for the comment.
Do you know if the BMSs have Bluetooth? A popular one is jkbms and you can connect to them with your phone to get the data. I would check that out first. Maybe the manufacturer can let you know. It does sound like your BMSs are going into protection mode, but without Bluetooth access or opening the cases to measure cell voltage, it is impossible to tell at this point. To make matters worse a BMS on a lifepo4 battery doesn’t start balancing until the voltage reach near full charge due to the flat voltage operating curve.
Man you saved me from a future head ache. I'm about to start a similar project. I'm also changing out the charger. Knowing to jump those wires is huge. Thank you.
Great video. I feel confident to convert my Ranger EV now. Thank you. Super useful.
I'm ordering batteries today so its good to see this will work!
Im looking to do this swap as well. Ready for the follow up video
Where did you put the 2 wires with the mini fuse that were on the lead batteries
Im trying to figure out how to get 12vdc to dash lights. Key, etc. The 48 vdc burns up the main relay under the hood?
Excellent …looking forward for updates
Thanks! Yeah I’ll post a follow up once I get the charger sorted.
Looks like the link for the batteries takes you to a different design now, with the BMS and connections on the side, rather than on the top. Makes me wonder whether there is room on the side, and what else might have changed about the battery box. What would you say are the max dimensions for a battery, LxWxH?
Hey sorry - I'll try take a measure and include it in the next installment
let us know what range you get at low speeds mate (crusing around the farm) keen to do this aswell.. cheers!
Looks great!
charger finally installed and working, see the part 2 video...
Hey did you or anyone elese have any issues with the slightly higher voltage burning out the lights in the Forward/reverse or low/high speed?
no not that I'm aware - everything seemed to work fine.
Which wires did you hook up to the momentary switch they sent me batteries with Bluetooth BMS so I had red wires that weren't hooked to anything inside and black wires that were hooked to the switch
Hey there - interesting not sure what is different with the Bluetooth model. If the switch is a standard latching push button and it activates the BMS then it should be fine to tap into either side of the switch and you can wire your new momentary switch in parallel. I still think going to the brake pedal is the cleanest, factory-like version 👍
@@outerspasc did you hook both black wires or red and black
Great 1st video. How much weight did you save? Did useful range and speed go up?
Hey - thanks! I don’t recall the exact figures but I think it’s on the order of 500lbs lighter. Significant for a vehicle that size. It definitely feels lighter on its feet. Raw power delivery doesn’t seem to be a problem although I haven’t really pushed it hard yet. Haven’t tested range yet either. Think I’m still dealing with some charging gremlins..
Hello! How many chargers do you use? One or two?
my current build has only one 48v charger, which I think should be adequate.
@@outerspasc Thank you!
Hello, thanks for a great video. I've just started my lithium conversion, my batteries are due to arrive in NZ from China next week.
Not sure if it's pertinent but when I was communicating with my supplier in China I happened to say that I was connecting the 2 x 105ah batteries in parallel and their technical guy said I would need a parallel unit installed in each of the batteries. I believe it it balances them during charging but not completely sure. It added $45 per battery.
I thought this might help with your charging issues. I have a picture of the unit in a battery but not quite sure how to send it here.
I got my batteries from Alibaba - Shenzhen Honghaosheng Electronics Co., Ltd. I dealt with a guy called Jay Shen who was real helpful.
Hey! Thanks for posting this - super interesting. They didn’t mention a parallel kit when I purchased them (although I told them I’d be using them that way). But now I’m beginning to wonder if you are right - I think I might have caused some damage as one battery has all but died (last I checked showed a capacity of 3.5 ah) and won’t take a charge.. charger just ramps up to 58v almost instantly and the BMS shuts it down.. that was a week ago and today I went out to drive it and it was complete dead… anyone have any thoughts on this??
Very useful! Mahalo! wondering about the 12 system. I know there’s a 48-12 DCDC converter, but mine also had two 12 volt taps off the original battery pack, one on each set of four batteries side. What did you do with them? Not sure what they do…
Hey there - sorry for the tardy reply. Yes I saw those too - there are 12v acc ‘accessory’ taps toward the back, maybe for lighting, or other factory options. There are also two leads that went to each bank of 4 - labeled as ‘diode’ in the wiring manual. I disconnected them and zip-tied them to the frame.
@@outerspasc the two leads marked diode fuse - I've been trying to figure out what they are for. I have followed them on the wiring diagram (with a big illuminated magnifying glass!) but still not sure what they're for. One is rated 2.2amp and the other is rated 1.2amp but then they seem to join up and then go into the contactor-battery harness. Any idea what they could be for? Is it testing for an imbalance in the two old banks of lead acids maybe?
@@jimbobaillie Did you ever figure out what those 2 leads are for ? Are they needed ?
Did you have to purchase a 48 to 12v converter
no, there is one on-board already.
How many Amps continuous and peak do you need on a Ranger EV for hill climbing and such?
Hi @bomberpanda, I'm in the middle of converting one to lithium and it will need to climb a steep hill daily. The research I did suggested it can hit easily 350 - 400amps on the climb, so I ordered a pair of 105ah batteries that can have 200amp continuous discharge with a 400amp peak. They will be connected in parallel giving 400amp continuous and nearly 800amp peak. Going by all the sites I've read through this is way more than is required.
A point to note - when ordering 2 batteries to connect in parallel they need to be specified as such, the good companies will then install a parallel unit to manage battery balancing.
Yeah this is good advice - I’ve learned the hard way that you can’t wire two batteries with independent BMSs in parallel without issues.. the bms’s have to be able to talk to each other. Most battery suppliers simply say you ‘can’ wire them in parallel… not if you should! I’m looking into options to salvage my setup.. been eyeing Batrium, but it’s expensive
Hi@@outerspasc, very nice video! I have two 100AH batteries on order from China which I will install in a similar manner as you did. I did not know about the parallel BMS problem. This problem sounds like a show-stopper.. I hope you find a solution and let everyone know.
Yes I will. there’s a ‘part 3’ in the works… just hope it has a happy ending.
Looking good. Where did you install the recharger?
hey - thanks! to be honest I haven't decided yet. Charger just landed so I'll hopefully get into it this week. Would be cool to use the factory wiring if possible. I'll see if I can post a follow up and address any other questions that come up.
Did you had to do any modifications to make the new charger works ? Thanks