Okuma Classic CLX saltwater fishing reel how to service
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- Опубліковано 6 кві 2023
- This video shows how to take apart and service the Okuma Classic CLX level wind saltwater fishing reel. I use a step by step process to show you how to do it yourself.
I have been servicing #fishing #reels for over 25 years and am sharing my experiences here. If you enjoy the video, please like it and subscribe to see more on fishing #reel repair and service
Questions? Comments? I reply to all.
Thank you for watching - Dennis
email 2ndchancetackle@gmail.com
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Hi Dennis, you make this look so easy! Your 25 + years of experience doing this is very evident and I thank you for sharing that experience with all of us in this excellent video. I have several Okuma reels (probably 15 or more) and my primary issue with them is the drag. I've sent a few of them back to the factory for repair but for the last few years, the ones that have given me problems have been piling up on a shelf. When I say "problems with the drag", I'm primarily referring to their failure to stay adjusted or they won't completely tighten up. I have one in particular that never worked right after a monster sturgeon grabbed my bait and peeled all the line off (in spite of my tightening the drag as far as it would go). The others just started acting up on their own and many of them have had very little use. Because of these problems, I've become a bit disillusioned with Okuma reels. I'm mechanically inclined but now I'm 75 years old and the 'ol memory isn't what it used to be so I'm a bit intimidated at the number of parts inside one of these rascals. I have a phone with a camera, and I know how to use that, so I'll get by but my question to you is this-have you ever made a video addressing just the drag issues on these reels because I find it hard to believe I'm the only one that's had problems of this nature. I presently have 4 of my reels laying here in front of me with drag problems (three CV 30's and one CV 20). I did hear (& see) you make reference to the drag when dealing with some parts and fiber (?) covered washers in your video but I'd certainly like to know more about those (or any other drag related parts in there). The other issue is the spool tensioner (?) cap nut you referred to. For one thing, I'm ashamed to say I never knew what that was for until you mentioned it (I should read instructions, I guess) but the problem i have is that if it isn't kept tight, it'll loosen itself up and fall off. I've had a few do that & actually lost one overboard once, so mine just stay tight all the time. Not good? Any advice or help you have to offer with these issues would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Doug thanks for the note and for asking. I think that you may have hit on a weakness in the reel, but it is probably related to the type of fishing you are doing rather than the design points. . That reel just doesn't have a lot of max drag and when you are fighting the big ones, the drag system just cannot support holding tight. The reels are reliable inshore or lake reels and routinely can handle the basic fish, but that sturgeon and others like it will smoke those drags.
You don't have many options here. Max drag is a function of surface area, so you won't be able to increase that using the standard drag washer set up. You may be able to use an old timers trick and add another drag washer to the stack between the last metal and the cap tension washer, but I have not tried that. Adding a small top drag washer does two things - it increases max drag (more surface area) and it raises the stack so that there is more to clamp down. If the washers are wearing down, you may find a Carbontex alternative, which will be more durable. These are available through Smoothdrag.com. Here is the link www.smoothdrag.com/wp/carbontex-price-list/. Thanks for watching and for asking - Dennis
Another great educational video as always Dennis. 🎣
Glad you liked it. Thanks for the note and for watching - Dennis
Thank you so much for the info and be assured, I'm slowly building up the necessary courage to tear into one of these things. I've rebuilt lots of engines and transmissions but for some reason, that little reel laying there intimidates the daylights out of me. I knew going into the sturgeon fishing trip that I was under gunned, but my usual fishing luck is such that I wasn't really expecting to actually hook into anything. Well, as I've noted, that wasn't the case and I either hooked a submarine or something about 14+ feet long and there was no stopping it. That thing ripped off almost all my 80 lb braided line and would have but it hit a spot where the line crossed itself on the reel and must have been a little weaker there because it snapped. That explains that reel's problems but the other CV 30 DLX's have been used primarily for salmon fishing and they should be able to handle that (to date, biggest one was about 20 lbs). The CV 20 DLX's have only been used for trout trolling (and used about twice a year). I've really had a lot of trouble with the drags on almost all these reels so if there is a way to fix/improve them, I'm all for it. I think I still have the paperwork on them so I'll look for a schematic there or online but if you have anything that might be helpful (other than the kind and experienced words you've shared) in keeping me from creating a disaster when I do tear into one of these things, it would certainly be appreciated. I'm sure I'll be referring back to this great video numerous times when I get brave enough to tear into one. Thanks, again. Doug
Sure thing Doug. By the way, you won't find me tearing into a transmission for the same fear. Now an engine, not so much. Best wishes - Dennis
Hi Dennis, Does messing with the pall(sp?) get the reel out of time? How do you make sure the pall is where the line is coming off of the spool? Thanks
Yes - you can get out of sync by changing the position of the line guide when servicing the pawl. The way to get it back in sync is to remove the spool and turn the line guide drive to the position where the line is on the spool. Use a marker or piece of tape to mark the line location on the line guide shield, then remove the spool, turn the drive until the line guide matches the marker and then reinstall the spool - That should get you into sync. - Dennis
Working on this reel right now and when removing the side piece with the handle, the spool came off with it and did not separate. Is there a trick to separate the spool from the side?
It sounds like the pinion gear may be stuck to the spool. You will need to remove all of the screws on the gear side plate and push the assembly out to see for sure. The bridge plate screws are on the inside of the assembly. There are 3 screws that hold it on. Dennis
Good morning Dennis. How about emails to contact you? Or is the comment section still the best way to go? I sent you one this past Monday with pictures to help with identifying some ocean city reels and information questions. I never got a reply. I know this is a busy time of the year for you. Just wondering if you seen the email. Anyway, thanks for all you do. I really appreciate your vids and look forward to them everyday. Have a great Easter weekend.
I just replied to the email. You are right, I am busy. Thanks for the follow up
Dennis
@@2ndChanceTackle got it! Thanks for your time and help.