Fail secure & fail safe is referencing the Key side of a lock. All commercial locks have Free Egress from the inside. Fail Secure (Power to UnLock) EU = Electrically Unlocked (FSE) Fail Safe (Power to Lock) EL = Electrically Locked (FS) Most Elec, Strike are field selectable (Fail Safe Strike are not allowed on fire doors) or Mag Locks. Elec. Exit device are Fail Secure Only LR = Latch Retraction (FSE) Elec. Exit Trims are field selectable both can be on fire doors Most Mortise locks & Cylindrical locks need to be ordered Fail Secure or Fail Safe. MagLocks can only be Fail Safe AKA fail unsecure.
how to tell if a lever lock is fail safe (Power to Lock) Cylindrical lock the inside Lever will be warm. Mortise lock the outside mortise cylinder above the lever will be warm.
Every Exterior lock & Interior lock should use fail secure (Power to UnLock) If you want to be Secure in a power outage. The ONLY time you would use Fail Safe locks (Power to Lock) is if you are locking an Interior door that is also a path of egress to the stairwells or EXITs the fire alarm will cut power to the locks and they become a PASSAGE lever Stay away from MagLocks they suck. do not use them Fire Trap if they don't loose power They are not allowed on fire rated Openings.
Fail secure & fail safe is referencing the Key side of a lock.
All commercial locks have Free Egress from the inside.
Fail Secure (Power to UnLock) EU = Electrically Unlocked (FSE)
Fail Safe (Power to Lock) EL = Electrically Locked (FS)
Most Elec, Strike are field selectable (Fail Safe Strike are not allowed on fire doors) or Mag Locks.
Elec. Exit device are Fail Secure Only LR = Latch Retraction (FSE)
Elec. Exit Trims are field selectable both can be on fire doors
Most Mortise locks & Cylindrical locks need to be ordered Fail Secure or Fail Safe.
MagLocks can only be Fail Safe AKA fail unsecure.
very good introduction, but the sound volume in background is loud.
Thank you for the feedback! We’ll keep that in mind for future videos.
how to tell if a lever lock is fail safe (Power to Lock)
Cylindrical lock the inside Lever will be warm.
Mortise lock the outside mortise cylinder above the lever will be warm.
Good presentation
Every Exterior lock & Interior lock should use fail secure (Power to UnLock) If you want to be Secure in a power outage.
The ONLY time you would use Fail Safe locks (Power to Lock) is if you are locking an Interior door that is also a path of egress to the stairwells or EXITs the fire alarm will cut power to the locks and they become a PASSAGE lever
Stay away from MagLocks they suck. do not use them Fire Trap if they don't loose power They are not allowed on fire rated Openings.