When we had an old Volkswagen drum that was stubborn to take off , we'd loosen the nut a few turns, put the wheel back on and take it around the corner , that did the trick.
The outer nut absolutely does need to be tight. Off the top of my head it needs to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 180-200 ft/lbs. Don’t reuse the tang washer. They’re dirt cheap and the tangs break off easily after being bent back and forth from being used multiple times. Not worth it You have to set the preload on the bearings when you tighten the inner nut back down. The way you did it, off you did get it completely seated, it’s way too tight and will generate a lot of extra heat causing the bearings to swell and push out your seal or worse, push on your compromised tang washer and back the nuts off. But it’s more likely you didn’t get it seated completely meaning there will be way too much end play in your hub. The proper way to do it would be spin the hub as you are tightening the first nut. Every time you spin it you’ll notice the nut will be able to tighten another 1/4 turn or so. This is seating the bearings. Once the wheel won’t spin any more and the nut is tight (~200 ft/lbs if i remember right), you’ll back it off like 2-3 turns. Then, without spinning the hub, tighten it down hand tight, then 90* more (1/4 turn). Then install your NEW tang washer and bend 2-3 tabs. Then tighten the outer nut to roughly 180-200 ft/lbs. Then bend 2-3 more tangs out and install the cap
I use to haul out of Canada to USA to build Dexter axiles. Out of Toronto. Wery nice people at Dexter axiles
Awesome explanation ..
When we had an old Volkswagen drum that was stubborn to take off , we'd loosen the nut a few turns, put the wheel back on and take it around the corner , that did the trick.
The outer nut absolutely does need to be tight. Off the top of my head it needs to be somewhere in the neighborhood of 180-200 ft/lbs.
Don’t reuse the tang washer. They’re dirt cheap and the tangs break off easily after being bent back and forth from being used multiple times. Not worth it
You have to set the preload on the bearings when you tighten the inner nut back down. The way you did it, off you did get it completely seated, it’s way too tight and will generate a lot of extra heat causing the bearings to swell and push out your seal or worse, push on your compromised tang washer and back the nuts off. But it’s more likely you didn’t get it seated completely meaning there will be way too much end play in your hub. The proper way to do it would be spin the hub as you are tightening the first nut. Every time you spin it you’ll notice the nut will be able to tighten another 1/4 turn or so. This is seating the bearings. Once the wheel won’t spin any more and the nut is tight (~200 ft/lbs if i remember right), you’ll back it off like 2-3 turns. Then, without spinning the hub, tighten it down hand tight, then 90* more (1/4 turn). Then install your NEW tang washer and bend 2-3 tabs. Then tighten the outer nut to roughly 180-200 ft/lbs. Then bend 2-3 more tangs out and install the cap
I would use a wheel bearing grease packer, after i inspected wheel bearings for wear and/or damage. I live where streets flood.
IDK, I actually think the seal and cap of the oil bath system is superior, Not to mention I can visually "see and inspect" without disassembly.