Tips for Buying Vinyl Records
Вставка
- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- Sorry about the dialog quality, didn't have the right mic on hand.
Index
0:58 Record Condition
1:54 Pressing Identification
3:00 Sound Quality
6:25 Record Shopping
8:26 Record Care
10:34 Record Cleaning
11:18 Record Shipping
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Learn about buying records in hifi stores and online, and how to track down the pressings with the best sound quality.
This is Part 2 of Jaguar’s 3-part vinyl video series, which includes Turntable Setup, Buying Vinyl and our 50 Best Pressings.
Finally, someone that understands records, and focuses on sound quality.
But I will nitpick with the visual grading, because the only way to know how a record sounds is when the stylus meets the grooves. Sure, a clearly scratched up record will have problems. But often, scratches and scuffs that are observable to the eye will not be heard by the ear.
To get the most out of the vinyl playback experience, it is imperative that the tone-arm / cartridge be dialed in with precision, with your ear being the final judge of that precision. Any misalignment, counter-weight imbalance, vertical tracking alignment issue, overhang issue, azimuth issue, etc, will affect imaging, separation, groove noise, etc.
Lastly, I am please to hear you speak to the importance of the stamper codes. Although that is very important, it should be noted that even a pressing with the correct stamper code, you could still wind up with a less than amazing playback experience. Those codes only mean that you have a far better shot at having a great sounding pressing. And even if, for example, side 1 sounds glorious, side 2 could, and often does, have nothing special sound quality (or vice versa).
Lucky and rare is it to find two sides of an album where both have great sound quality (which is why serious music lovers will often have two copies of the same album; one for side one, and the other for side 2).
For those that would rather let others do the legwork, www.better-records.com specializes in listening and rating each side of every record that they sell -- and they sell only those that rise above the rest. Although you will get a great sounding pressing from them, it will cost $$.
Cheers!
Thank you for your thoughts. On occasion, I have come across an album that looks new but has incessant crackle, though that's pretty rare. I can't tolerate sonic defects on an album that I keep long-term, unless it's something very minor, over a brief passage. The fact is, just like the actual sound quality of an album, the condition is a bit of a crap shoot. However, I've had pretty good luck with only buying records graded NM- or higher. Going down to VG+ can introduce a much higher level of variability.
Good video. I learned some pointers, thanks.
Good advice, I will add 2 points. 1: use an outer sleeve and 2: don't buy a "Spin clean", get a "Knosti", same system but half the price.
Thanks for the info!
this is really helpful it's the majority of the stuff i would tell somebody who is really interested in collecting and or the vinyl experience overall.only thing that you mentioned i wouldn't recommend is the spin clean i know this is debatable people have different experiences with it. but it added back ground noise (clicks & pops) to a lot of near mint records in my collection. i've followed the directions to a t my brushes are in really good shape & are also clean i use filtered water and air dry the records.the only thing i can guess it's the provided spin clean solution.others have mentioned this issue suggesting that rinsing in filtered water after washing in the solution helps with this issue but still no luck for me with reducing the surface noise.from what i know it's not surface noise caused by static the records aren't attracting major dust or sticking to platter mat. i've never had this issue before when i hand cleaned my records with cleaner & a micro fiber cloth.the only time i would use the spin clean again is for those old beat up records you find in basements or at swap meets/thrift stores that have major dust and or mildew.
Thanks for watching. I haven't experienced any of the problems you describe with the Spin Clean. I know the newer units use micro-fiber pads, which as far as I can tell are not capable of damaging vinyl, if used according to instruction. I have yet to encounter another cleaner I prefer, anywhere near the same cost.
Any Idea what my Michael Jackson album Thriller is worth its mint 1982 CBS Canada release thanks
Very good video. You mentioned automatic record cleaners for a few thousand dollars, but their are some that come to mind like the okki nokki, 500.00, the Project, 500.00 which clamps just the label keep contamination away and the Vpi 16.5 for 699.00. These are not cheap, but if you have a large collection, which I have they pay for themselves by saving you time. There are even cavitation machines that are about 500.00 and do an even better job. The Autodesk and the like are a few thousand dollars and are cavitation machines, but as you said not needed. Also enzyme cleaners either home made or store bought do an excellent job of eating away grime on records.
Yes Sid, the Chinese-made cavitation/ultrasonic machines are probably the best deal. I'd also recommend one that cleans multiple records at one time. I borrowed a friend's Klaudio, which is cleaner and the best cleaner I've seen, but his model only cleans one at a time and cleaning a few hundred records took many days and was a lot of work.
Great video , that Zeppelin ll should be the hot mix by Bob Ludwig . Dream Boat Annie sounds best on the MFSL issue
You can find really good quality records that are in very good or even good condition if they're graded conservatively. I've managed to get older records that were put under really good condition that don't have a lot of surface noise and sound great.
This is true, but I advise against buying anything below VG+ online. What's permitted at those levels under the Discogs condition guidelines can be really shotty. I don't buy anything below NM-. If it's not perfect I don't want it in my collection, even if it's old. (see the detailed descriptions below)
Mint (M)
Vinyl - Absolutely perfect in every way. Certainly never been played, possibly even still sealed. Should be used sparingly as a grade, if at all.
Near Mint (NM or M-)
Vinyl - A nearly perfect record. A NM- record has more than likely never been played, and the vinyl will play perfectly, with no imperfections during playback. Many dealers won't give a grade higher than this implying (perhaps correctly) that no record is ever truly perfect. The record should show no obvious signs of wear. A 45 RPM or EP sleeve should have no more than the most minor defects, such as any sign of slight handling. An LP cover should have no creases, folds, seam splits, cut-out holes, or other noticeable similar defects. The same should be true of any other inserts, such as posters, lyric sleeves, etc.
Very Good Plus (VG+)
Vinyl - Generally worth 50% of the Near Mint value. A Very Good Plus record will show some signs that it was played and otherwise handled by a previous owner who took good care of it. Defects should be more of a cosmetic nature, not affecting the actual playback as a whole. Record surfaces may show some signs of wear and may have slight scuffs or very light scratches that don't affect one's listening experiences. Slight warps that do not affect the sound are "OK". The label may have some ring wear or discoloration, but it should be barely noticeable. Spindle marks may be present. Picture sleeves and inner sleeves will have some slight wear, slightly turned-up corners, or a slight seam split. An LP cover may have slight signs of wear, and may be marred by a cut-out hole, indentation, or cut corner. In general, if not for a couple of minor things wrong with it, this would be Near Mint.
Very Good (VG)
Vinyl - Generally worth 25% of Near Mint value. Many of the defects found in a VG+ record will be more pronounced in a VG disc. Surface noise will be evident upon playing, especially in soft passages and during a song's intro and fade, but will not overpower the music otherwise. Groove wear will start to be noticeable, as with light scratches (deep enough to feel with a fingernail) that will affect the sound. Labels may be marred by writing, or have tape or stickers (or their residue) attached. The same will be true of picture sleeves or LP covers. However, it will not have all of these problems at the same time. Goldmine price guides with more than one price will list Very Good as the lowest price.
Good (G), Good Plus (G+)
Vinyl - Generally worth 10-15% of the Near Mint value. A record in Good or Good Plus condition can be played through without skipping. But it will have significant surface noise, scratches, and visible groove wear. A cover or sleeve will have seam splits, especially at the bottom or on the spine. Tape, writing, ring wear, or other defects will be present. While the record will be playable without skipping, noticeable surface noise and "ticks" will almost certainly accompany the playback.
Poor (P), Fair (F)
Vinyl - Generally worth 0-5% of the Near Mint price. The record is cracked, badly warped, and won't play through without skipping or repeating. The picture sleeve is water damaged, split on all three seams and heavily marred by wear and writing. The LP cover barely keeps the LP inside it. Inner sleeves are fully split, crinkled, and written upon.
Hey there. I like to use clear inner sleeves that I buy on line usually from ebay which I use for the discs themselves. And for the record covers as long as they're in pretty nice shape I use the reseable type outer sleeves for the album covers them selves. The part of the sleeve which has the reseable flap I always place over where the part of the cover for inserting the record in & out is. :) What do you think about that? :)
Hey Mark, I bought the box of 250 inner sleeves on Acoustic Sounds and I found it to be the best combo of price and quality (I tried those Japanese sleeves with the rounded bottom on eBay, but didn't like them as much). 250 is more than most collectors will need. As for the outer sleeve, I stand by what I said in the video. Covers won't get damaged much if you don't protect them as long as they're well-cared-for. I would only put a protector on a collectible album that's worth $100 or more, otherwise, it's too much trouble.
Good video. Good Info. But did you know you kinda look like Greg Brady? LOL
Thanks very much Jimmy...but if I were the real Johnny Bravo, would I be doing this?
LOL That is funny! LOL I do remember Greg Brady being Johnny Bravo!
Hi, can you put the time indices on the description? Thanks!
Done. Thank you for the suggestion.
I have lots of albums from the 60s and 70s is Ebay the best place to sell them?
Hi Sandra, eBay is ok, but Discogs is much better if they're not collectible items. Discogs is the only place I'm aware of where you can look up the value based on the condition. Look them up by those matrix numbers in the center of the album, so you don't mix them up with other pressings; on rare occasion, albums will be labeled with the same matrix number and you have to check other things like the year on the back of the cover. If you don't have anything valuable you're probably better off selling them together as a package on eBay. Use USPS Media Mail for shipping.
interesting.. i will offer a tip tho....its common practice/knowledge to keep your intros below 20 sec....than getting right to the meat/point of the video....just a tip... thats all
Oh man..get real